[TFoch]

I started to wire my 33 Chevy and want to add it to the forum.  This is the first time I do this so I don't claim to be an expert.  That being said, I hope to take you from start to finish on how I installed a wire harness in my car.  To start I purchased a Ron Francis Bare Bones Kit.  I don't have electric windows, air conditioning or a big booming stereo in the car so this kit keeps it simple, the way I like it.  When I ordered the kit there was a questionnaire to fill out asking questions like distributor type, steering column type and 1 or 3 wire alternator.

The kit comes with a color schematic and instructions for each step to complete the job.  When you open the box, there are bags labeled "A" "B" "C" and so on.  You start by mounting your fuse panel and running your battery cables.

So here it goes.  After the first 3 bags you can start the engine.

[TFoch]

Today day I did bag "A".  I have a 1 wire alternator so all I had to do was positive post on the run a wire  from the alternator to the starter.  I drilled two holes in the floor boards and put some grommets in to run the wires through.  My plan is to have the wires go down each frame rail and then come into the inside of the car to keep the outside firewall nice and clean.  Here is a picture of the schematic included with the kit.

[themoose]

Tom

This will be a really interesting thread. I'm looking forward to following your progress.

Moose

[EDNY]

Tom

Once you complete this wiring project (you, Moose or me) can delete the unrelated comments "just like this one right now", so your install sequence will be uninterrupted.

Thanks
Ed

[TFoch]

Before I get too far, I forgot to mention the wires are not only color coded but have what they are for labeled every 6 inches.  This along with the easy to follow instructions in each bag make it easy to follow.  The wire in the picture below goes from the ignition switch to #4 on the terminal block.  A good crimping tool able to crimp red, blue and yellow connectors is needed.

[TFoch]

Bag "B" contained the wire for the distributor.  I'm running a GM HEI Distributor so there was one wire from the distributor to the terminal block.  Then another wire from the solenoid to the terminal block.  The final part of the bag was to connect the red wire from the top of the fuse box to the battery post on the solenoid.

[TFoch]

Bag "C" was for the ignition switch and safety neutral switch.  I ordered a dash mount ignition switch with the kit.  the wires had the terminals already on them but I had to plug them into the black terminal block in the right order according to the instructions.  Then plug them onto the switch.  The there are two wires that connect the neutral safety switch to the terminal board.  That finishes Bag "C".  Once I crimp my battery cables tomorrow and connect them, I can see if the motor turns over.  If it does, I've done the job correctly so far.

[TFoch]

Got the terminals crimped onto the battery cables.  The post on the compact battery I'm using are brass and screw onto the lead posts that are flush with the top of the battery.  I put terminals on with 3/8" holes in them, put the post in the lathe and cut a 3/8" boss onto them.  This way the terminal stays centered on the post.
With the first three bags done the car turned over as promised.  I didn't start the engine as I don't want to leave fuel in it over the winter.  Bag "D" will be next which is the gauges.

[TFoch]

Bag "C" was to wire the gauges.  I still haven't finished cutting my black walnut for the dash so I'm going to wait until I do to do this bag.  So Bag "D" is to wire the the steering column.  The instructions had a table on them to show you which color wire from the kit goes to the GM steering column wire harness.  The black plug in the kit has all the letter designations that are on the table to make things easy.  The wires come with the connectors on them.  Just push them into the black plug and you're done.

[TFoch]

Once you've assembled the connector you can attach it to the steering column to double check it with the table on the instructions.  Just for info I'm using an Ididit column with a GM wire harness.

[logride]

This is a interesting thread.

Not to sidetrack you but what is the heat air unit?

[TFoch]

This is a interesting thread.

Not to sidetrack you but what is the heat air unit?

Thanks.  It's a Vintage Air Gen II Heater with Defroster #506101

[TFoch]

Bag F is the head light and dimmer switches.  I ordered my head light switch with my harness but it did come with a GM style plug.  To mount the switch to the dash you pull the knob out to the head light on position and then press on the little spring loaded button on the bottom of the switch.  Then the knob and shaft comes out.  After mounting the switch to the dash push the knob and shaft back in and press on the button again.  There are two head light feed wires that go back to the panel.  There's a wire that powers the dash lights and the brightness is controlled by turning the head light knob.  Then you run the rest of the wires out to each corner of the car for the head lights and tail lights.

[TFoch]

There is a ground wire supplied with the kit in case you have a fiberglass car or a wood dash.  The switch does need to have a good ground.  If you’re wondering what “WAMCO” means on the column drop refer to the thread called “The Wild Ass Mining Co” in the General Discussion section.  I decided on a floor mounted dimmer switch.  The plug in the harness is for a GM style dimmer switch.  One wire goes to the panel, the other two go out to the headlights with one also going to the high beam indicator light on the dash.  I plan to replace the knob with a more vintage style one.  I'll have to hunt around for one that I like.

[TFoch]

Cleaned up a little of the wiring. I used one connector made for a 4 awg wire to connect 3 wires to the battery post on the starter.  I brought home a tool from work to make the crimp.  Added some shrink sleeve and then some nylon mesh to keep the wires together.  This is something I found at http://www.cabletiesandmore.com/ExpandableSleeving.php.  I bought the 3/8" size that expands from 3/16" to 5/8". I used shrink sleeve to keep the ends from fraying.  This is the first time I use it so I'll have to see how durable it is.