[madmike3434]

these are pictures of my 1935 Chevrolet standard series EC roadster as I redo the wood, and theres a lot of wood.  Wood is a combination of oak, northern ash and cherry.  This is the seat back that attaches to the area behind the seat that holds the folding top assembly.  I used forstner wood bits to sink the T NUTS down below the wood surface. .  Whack it once with hammer to set the prongs tip marks, then drill 1/16 th holes in center of tips marks. Then drive the T NUT  down below the wood surface.

I used cherry wood for the slats and chose all the wood that looks like a real tree should. Check out the grain in the wood.  this would never get used by cabinet makers because of the grain. Still charge you same price. !!  The clear finish is an expensive varnish $50 a quart, from Holland, from a company named epifanes.  you thin the first coat out 50% and second 25% and third 20%, then down to 10%.

mike

[madmike3434]

  Shazzbott, 1935 Chevrolet roadster getting rewooded.  This is one of the doors for the roadster. I got a pair of these from a friend in Knoxville tenn and 80% of the wood kit made by somebody.

 The original patterns is what these were from a man named glen stauffer since passed from jekyl island Georgia who was big into 1932--1935 Chevrolet open cars. The original wood in the doors was something home made by somebody who did more damage than repair.

also shown is the main floor sills the body mounts too..........runs from firewall on frame to just behind the rear door post area

[madmike3434]

  More wood working on SHAZZBOTT .  shown is the rumble seat deck lid wood assembly. The seat back cushion attaches to this, the wood frame is nailed to the metal rumble seat lid thru the sides.

Second picture shows some more assorted wood parts, the main spine curved parts that attach to the quarter panels and inside the trunk on the sides.  The water metal troughs get nailed to these.

picture 3 is my home made steam bending apparatus made from 3 wall paper steamers from home depot, with hoses.  The 8 foot long black ABS pipe is capped at one end and unscrews at the other . It has a drain hole drilled into pipe to let out excess steam and hot water, and take some of the pressure off the pipe.  Wood is soaked in this for 2 days, then steamed for one hour , then quickly grabbed and put into the bending jig.   You definitely need a couple of buddies to help do this clamping.

mike   

[sammons]

Nice wood working there Mike.  I don't think I would have the patience, or skill for that.

[madmike3434]

shazzbott.......making the seat surround top holder
picture 1...this is the original seat surround out of the car, its made from many original pieces using various techniques......finger joints, scarf joints, stacked joints.  in my wisdom I figured I could build it stronger and better than original design and set out to make it out of one piece of 1 1/4" thick northern ash, planed down to 15/16 and the lengths of 8 foot cut to 3 1/4" wide.  Then stacked on top of each other using multiple biscuits and TITE BOND  3 waterproof glue.

Also shown is the bending jig I made that is 10% shorter width wise than the actual width needed because your going to get spring back. I kept the steamed and bent part in the jig for 3-4 days before placing it in the exact fit jig for another 4-5 days.

took me a month making all the parts, steaming, soaking, bending and just general stuff.. I made two of these surrounds.....one is stock height 6 3/4" the other is 5" higher at 12"..  Both are still sitting in my basement from last October fully clamped up with pipe clamps before I dig them out this spring and begin sanding them both and wood varnishing them.

The wood was all book marked so that when I cut the 10" wide boards down to 3 1/4" wide the fantasic wood pattern would match up perfectly.  I went thru a lot of boards to find 2 that had a lot of character to the wood.

last picture shows all the wood surround parts I steam bent and jigged before stacking them into the 2 surrounds.  You have to do this right , there is no margin to make errors.  Its been a grueling experience that continues this spring.

mike

[madmike3434]

Nice wood working there Mike.  I don't think I would have the patience, or skill for that.

most of the wood I bought an 80% complete kit having to fabricate the surround myself. a full roadster  kit I hear is around $7--8 grand with a 2 year wait.

 Its just a case of waiting for 2 years to buy a part or put your jock on and lets get to work.  like anything when your building a car spend a lot of time thinking about what you think is the best way to do the job and then do it.

 Also let me say this........thank god for U TUBE because there is a ton of people on there with home made instructional videos.  just type in whatever it is your interested in......steam bending and spend hours watching stuff.  helped me

mike

[madmike3434]

more shots of the top folding area and the seat surround. All wood is 15/16 northern ash planed down from 1 1/4 thick.

A biscuit jointer machine is used to create biscuit pockets so that each board lines up with the next.   Titebond 3 waterproof glue is used in each biscuit joint and the mating surfaces are also coated with it and tightly clamped together with clamps pulling top down onto bottom piece, not shown.  This particular seat surround was made 4 boards high, the other I made was 3 boards high to factory stock height for another guy.

The pine wood boards with clamps are used to make sure when the long boards are clamped down that they line up perfectly with the one below.

mike

[madmike3434]

When I bought the roadster the rumble seat floor had a glued down outdoor type carpet in there. After getting it out you see what I see.   There was a metal floor inside the area that was pop riveted down. After I removed that I could see problems. What I did not know was what was below the surface.  So I took the panel to enviro tech metal strippers where they chemically remove absolutely everything that is not iron.

Here you see what I found that was covered with bondo, tar, snot and who knows what else to create this HOLY MESS. After thinking long and hard and discussing with a friend about how to go about saving this floor design. The angles of 10 degrees were what the bends measured using my angle finder.  Went to a metal supermarket and they bent me up a main panel . Then made me 2 side pieces that would be welded to the sides to follow the correct angles.  Excess will be trimmed away.   

The roadster rumble seat floor pan is different than non rumble seat , because the floor pan for the rumble , this is the foot well area, the regular trunk floor is all angled.   Whole lot of MIG welding, grinding and smoothing was done to turn out a duplicate.  The only part usable from the original was the back part that raises up to clear the rear end.

mike   

[madmike3434]

new rumble seat roadster only,  floor pan all welded up and attached to the remaining over the rear end part, the only salvageable part.

The original stiffening braces will be re-attached using 10/32 stainless button head allen heads with ny-locks.  I will use oil and gas proof 1/16 thick paper under the braces so the main panel does not get scratched.

SEE IN PICTURE #3 all the original nail holes along the top , this is how this floor pan is attached front and back to wood stringers, sides go onto metal stampings.

mike          SHAZZBOTT

[ghost28]

You are getting after it. Nice

[madmike3434]

after owning my 35 3 window coupe  since 1970 I finally found the only pair of NOS running boards I have ever seen for sale.  This pair will end up on SHAZZBOTT the 35 roadster.

once when I went to look at a 34 roadster in early 80's the guy in western NY state had 12 pair of NOS boards and would not sell a pair. Was an amazing sight  back then. He had a 34 roadster for sale , a 1935 roadster he was finishing up, a 1934 Chevrolet master phaeton with absolutely every option imaginable in 1934. Lost his address . Wish I had bought that 34 roadster back then for the $8500.
mike lynch 

[madmike3434]

  I also managed to purchase this past winter and bring home last week another pair of running boards for 34-35 standard, these ones are used.     these are better than a previous pair I bought 4 years ago so will sell those off.

These will end up at enviro tech metal strippers where they will undergo an acid type bath/that takes all the rust , paint, tar and bondo or anything else off the surfaces, leaving them perfectly clean. size]

mike lynch   

[madmike3434]

back in 1996 when I was re-doing the coupe with new frame overhaul and new motor 350--zz4 trans 700R4 setup, kugel front and jag mark 10 independant rear. I hated what was available for sbc center bolt 1986 + up  aluminum heads.  I remembered the two companies who produced very interesting vavle covers.  I found the GENNIE SHIFTER COMPANY DOHC valve covers from early 80's,  luckily at a local swap meet. Could not believe my luck.

I always kept an eye out for the LARSEN ENGINEERING VALVE COVERS in case a pair popped up and sure enough 4 pairs showed up on ebay last fall .  The first one sold brought a really high auction price on ebay around $900 . And because of that it drew out another pair that went for $720 or so.  Both beyond what I was prepared to spend.  Then coupla weeks later yet another set showed up on ebay but went for less than $550.  got sniped on them in last 2 seconds.  Well a month later yet one last set turned up and they ended up with me winning them.  Here they are , tops unbolt and you bolt them down from inside to cylinder heads.

These are pretty wide and makes your small block look like a big block[. I plan on having stripped the chrome off the tops and blast them with walnut shells to smooth everything out.  From there I will water sand them to a satin finish, as all the aluminum parts will be refinished to that look.  The flat area in the middle is for 1964--64 corvette crossed fender flags.

Doug Bronson in Cleveland tenn. has about 6 sets of these for sale on ebay and they have 10 groves milled into the top for an even wider look.

mike lynch  madmike3434   
/size]

[madmike3434]

Here is some stuff I picked up for the roadster.  These are rocker panel inside the car door , mount to the floor edge aluminum etched pattern parts made by I & I repo . They nail down onto the wood frame and serve as a carpet or rubber mat edge. Apparently they only came on the 33-35 chevy and only for the closed fisher bodied car bodies........roadsters were not made by fisher body.  Don't care what restorer guys say is correct , I like them on my hot rod.

picture #14...got these from TANKS, 1934--1938 chevy repo ; gas tank straps , bolts, and rubber strips .  The metal brackets at the top of the picture are for 34-35 standard chev front fender braces. These run from the skirt area of the fender over to the inside and stiffen the skirt area.

While poking around ebay in the nascar search section, its amazing the trick parts and pieces that show up as surplus as teams close up shop or get rid of excess stuff. There is a few guys who seem to have a foot in the door buying this stuff up for re-sale.  This was only $14.95, the aluminum carb spacer and somebody spent some time lightening it with a milling machine.  Thought it added some character so bought it.  price was right.

mike lynch  madmike3434   

[madmike3434]

the biggest purchase I made for 2014 was the duVall silicon bronze windshield for 32--35 ford roadster. This is one of 12 sets re cast from the original duVall molds owned by his nephew Doty that Dave Grant was able to refurbish & borrow.

 Best part about this 5 piece casting set is that altho its meant for 32--35 fords I can adapt this to my 35 Chevrolet. It can easily be made narrower if needed to fit my cowl.  It will be placed on the car cowl and bolted down starting with the center piece and the  2 sides. This will either be TIG welded  using silicon bronze rod or silver soldered.  There is lots to do to make it work.

I also got the special aluminum topper from British  Columbia Canada who made these up to fit the past tech model duVall.  The slot in the underneath fits the windshield. Its a fairly complicated piece that needs to fit the duVall right to work. It has some tabs that have to be tapped and also threaded into the windshield frame so it stays there at speed.  Might have to slice and dice on this a bit.   Plan is to have these powder coated in a satin black rather than plated which could cost potentially cost $1500---2500.  I got other uses for my  $$$$

mike lynch   madmike3434