[madmike3434]

here is some more carb stuff.

Because the weber carbs do not have provision for a PCV valve nor a road draft tube I had to conjure up a breather system.  I spotted these little air filters on ebay from hong kong and came up with the idea of 4 of them across the front to take engine pressures off, no venting system your going to blow valve stem seals.

My Larson valve covers now have a AN-12 90 degree fitting that feeds up to the front thru that same black cloth hose.  I originally got the idea after seeing a Chevrolet big block can-am engine with 2 push on filters across the front.

just spent Saturday with my eastwood 200 ac/dc TIG welder, putting it all together and then high speed die grinder to shape the 4 tubes.  Almost ready to go to powder coater and be done in flat black

mike lynch

[madmike3434]

nothing like trying to tap aluminum with 1/2" pipe tap even with correct aluminum liquid to tap and then not having the absolute correct drill size of 23/32, alternate is 3/4 but its too small.  So off to ebay to hunt one down , just in case I have to tap 1/2" pipe again.

mike

[madmike3434]

further to tapping aluminum.   I found that altho one site said use a 23/34 drill to tap a 1/2" pipe thread I found another site that says use 45/64.  Interesting doing the subtraction, the 45/64 would be 1/64th smaller that the 23/32.    The alternate drill to use according to my printed sheet is 3/4".

So after my head stops spinning with all these fractions I decide I need to have a longer approach tube by 5".  So off to metal mart and luckily find a piece of 1/4" wall aluminum tube that the 1/2" pipe barely fits into.

Great now to use the 3/4" drill bit open the hole for tapping.  Install 1/2"pipe tap into holder,  slop liquid aluminum tap fluid all over it . LET THE FIGHT BEGIN, can go so far and just will not tap any deeper.  I get 1/2 way into hole and said has to , supposed to be easier than this.  1/4 turn blow chips off, more fluid and other 1/4 turn and on and on.  At this point something gonna get hurt. 

I take the 1/2" pipe tap and lay the 3/4" drill on it, then take the 13/16" drill on it, hey wait a minute here, this can work.  I load the 13/16 drill into a 1/2" electric hammer drill , mark 1/2 " up the drill bit with tape so only go so far.

Put the pipe tap back into the hole and go at it, hey this is working and putting out about 25% of the effort of before.  End result, the  1/2" pipe thread An12 fitting go into the hole at 90% of the thread inside which is what I am after.

Satisfied everything worked out fine, I do the other one.  All is peaceful now in Whitby

Sure I can find other stuff to drive me crazy.......LMAO
........madmike3434

[madmike3434]

My red 1935 Chevrolet phaeton is getting some updates.  Out with the 305 sbc TPI and 350 Th , and in with the crate ZZ383 450 HP and 700R4.  New sanderson headers and complete ss exhaust pipes and mufflers.  Brakes being converted to Wilwood 4 piston front and rears on full  1968 jag XKE suspension.  New booster and master cyl 15/16 bore vet plus a vacuum pump to maintain 18--21 inches of vacuum.

Had this firewall plate water jet cut out of 1/4" thick 6061-T5 aluminum 3 years ago and left blank.  Car has a stainless cover on it now.  So 2 months ago decided time to get it milled 1/8" deep.  As per usual "ya we can do that no problem , be ready next week just have to program mill ". 

So guess what 8 weeks later I get fed up and go and retrieve the panel.  Lay out the pattern  ,  drill 1 9/64" holes and begin zip cutting the slots.  Plan is to cut right thru and put a brass or copper backer behind it.  Take the aluminum and have it powder coated gloss signal red.   Really do not want a flat painted firewall so this is what I have come up with .


mike ....HAIRBALL

[madmike3434]

moved the pictures so I could post them

[madmike3434]

yes I realize "red firewall C " picture has a hole in wrong place too low.  The fix it plug is cut and ready to get TIG welded in.

Lesson.........when your really tired and ready to make mistakes, put drill press in off position and come back when your fully dialed in and thinking straight.

mike............HAIRBALL

[EDNY]

That aluminum looks sturdy...you must have a nice TIG.

[madmike3434]

I have an EASTWOOD 200 AC/DC  TIG .  They put them on sale every once in a while and you can get one below $700 .

When it comes to aluminum, try as a might and many bottles of argon trying to learn, my alum TIG welding sucks.  Luckily I have a friend who I watch like a hawk and he does it perfectly using my machine on 1/4" thick.   I think the 1/4" is at the max of this machines capability.    Steel no problem.

I bought a MIG aluminum gun but its still in the box.

mike..................HAIRBALL

[madmike3434]

Got the copper backing plate back today from water jet cutter.  Had to use stainless cleaner and those green sanding pads for frying pans to get an even finish on it.
 Spoke to the powder coater about putting a satin or flat finish on the copper backing plate so it does not discolor.

Now to repair the aluminum surface and the drilled hole O corners then off to powder coating for a splash of signal red.  And all this takes time.

mike ...........HAIRBALL

[RoarsRods]

Dug up some pictures of madmikes Shazzbotts Chevrolet Roadster! RoarsRods

[sixball]

Nice, Was that the starting point?

[madmike3435]

after owning my 35 3 window coupe  since 1970 I finally found the only pair of NOS running boards I have ever seen for sale.  This pair will end up on SHAZZBOTT the 35 roadster.

once when I went to look at a 34 roadster in early 80's the guy in western NY state had 12 pair of NOS boards and would not sell a pair. Was an amazing sight  back then. He had a 34 roadster for sale , a 1935 roadster he was finishing up, a 1934 Chevrolet master phaeton with absolutely every option imaginable in 1934. Lost his address . Wish I had bought that 34 roadster back then for the $8500.
mike lynch 

Interesting update on the runningboard story.  RORA member found a list in the roadster he is building and in that list book is my name and many others I supplied to his father as possible contacts.  The one burning question I had was "who was the guy in western NY state".  Well the list in book showed him, name address and telephone number.

One nite after I got that list I telephoned the guy and BINGO , he was still there same address.  Remembered my visit there about the 34 roadster .    My burning question was, exactly what was that 34 master open car, a phaeton or a convertible sedan as my memory was foggy after all these years.  Turns out they never produced either of these body styles in 1934 USA or Canada, the phaeton was an Australian HOLDEN GM built car.  It was brought to the USA by a minister/priest  returning from Australia  . Back then I was a neophyte in all things early 1933--36 Chevrolet .  Knew diddly about squat.

He has moved on from restoring 1933--1935 Chevrolet open cars.

MIKE LYNCH   HAIRBALL

[madmike3435]

Nice, Was that the starting point?

Yes that is what I purchased in 2012, those are pictures of ebay ad/auction.  Just far enough away to not raise any red flags.

That had so much bondo 3/8--1/2" thick and tar underneathe 1/4--3/8".  ZAs soon as the transporter opened the doors I knew this was going to get seriously bad.  Only thing saved was the cowl section, hood, doors, quarter panels , dash panel and windshield and top assembly, plus frame. Bumpers were also saved as were stock seats.

 Wrong motor + trans , 33 master got sold locally.  Trunk lid was metal formed over angle iron and bashed with a welders chipping hammer and bondo'd.

Once quarter panels were dipped and stripped I estimate at least $2500 to repair them properly.   Not sure if this car is ever going to get finished by me and would be for sale.

mike lynch      HAIRBALL