[28chevyguy]

whats the difference between a 6v and 12 v guages?   will they electric sending units burn right out or has anyone done it?  thanks!

[28chevyguy]

simplfied my question...  anyone have an idea or am i just spewing garbage here.   

[sammons]

Just put a voltage reducer in, Radio Shack used to carry them. I think your oil/temp senders would be fine, but the gauge wouldn't. The fuel sender is touchy and could burn out, really bad deal. If you have an amp gauge I beleave it's fine.  I have in the past used a long stainless steel screw to tap into the battery (center plate for 6v on 12v batt) but for temporary use to gauge cluster till I got a voltage reducer.

Moose or Tom may have better info.

[28chevyguy]

Ok thanks !   Just found this very helpful...  example , going from 13.8 V to 6.8V   , 13.8v - 6.8v = 7v  drop.  V= I x R   ,  R = V/I which equals  R = 7 / 3 = 2.33 ohms  .   Thats pretty neat looks like i answered my own question.  Grab a resistor x2 the wattage rating so it doesnt get hot and should be all set apparently.

[TFoch]

I've never done anything like that. I think either Moose or (Jef) Cool53 would probably have the answer.
Tom

[ghost28]

Good to know I am working on the same thing.

[TFoch]

I did find this on the Speedway Motors site.  It had good reviews.

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Runtz-12-Volt-to-6-Volt-Reducers,2374.html

[TFoch]

28chevyguy There is a thread on the HAMB talking about the Runtz Reducers right now.  Here's the link.  They have a link on how to make your own if you wish.
Tom

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/runtz-reducers.925713/

[themoose]

I agree that the Runtz Reducers are the way to go and as stated below if you want you can build you own reducers but you can do it for four or five bucks in parts but if you factor in the time locate and get the parts and you labor time to build them I don't know how far ahead you are. How ever you decide to go make sure that all of your connections are clean and tight and your grounds are good as this is a solid state circuit which is very susceptible to voltage spikes. You may want to consider using a separate B+  supply for your gauges to insure that no other components on the circuit are causing problems. I do this by using a relay with a 10 gauge wire from the + side of the battery to the gauges and control the relay through the ignition switch As I said, voltage spikes can easily damage the reducer so the extra effort can save you a lot of aggravation in the future hunting down those electrical gremlins.

Moose 

[sixball]

This is why I like mechanical gauges. Temp, oil pressure, and vacuum are mechanical. Amps are amps and for fuel I use a stick.