[madmike3434]

The Carter windshield is made in aluminum.  It can be polished, it can be powder coated , or it can be painted with an etching primer that is compatible with aluminum.  Or it can be chrome plated using copper, nickel , chrome.

The paint on car will be black high gloss polished nitrocellulose lacquer.  For the windshield I would powder coat it in a satin black for a different look.  The 35 chev tub that won the grand national roadster show in 2014 had a bunch of parts and firewall, luggage rack in that satin black and I thought , damn , I like that. So will do it.  Thats the plan anyway

see if I can find a picture of it,,,,,,,,2 more pictures one showing satin flat black firewall and satin black luggage rack against the black lacquer paint on body.   The rack has since been painted a red shade to match red on body......UGLY

I like the satin black, perfect choice, I think!

Me too, never entered my brain to do,  until I saw it on that phaeton.  When you get the brains of chip foose, troy trepanier and others of that level involved , some new and great ideas come out .

Still hate the custom made aluminum wheels , which got its design from the horn cover on a 32 chevrolet

mike

[chopper526]

No, not a fan of the wheels on the phaeton, but I like the wires on the roadster.

[madmike3434]

wires on 32 ford roadster , page 5 , are either Dayton triple cross, or Borrani wires as used on Ferraris .

you see a set of Borrani wires show up on ebay every once in a while.  The Daytons are a fairly new design and can be made in any size 13" thru 20" rims, maybe more ?  Pricey too !

mike           

[madmike3434]

been beavering away last couple months on the roadster rumble seat floor assembly.  This floor panel design is common to rumble seat cars only as I found out.

Took floor pan to enviro tech strippers who dip the part to remove paint and anything else , then goes into acid bath to remove all the rust .  Well holy swiss cheese is what I got back.   The only area that was salvageable was the rear part that sits over the rear end.  I went to a metal shop that bent up the main floor pan and 2 side pieces.  Friend rick has a gas MIG and it got welded up. Lots grinding and filing on welds to smooth it up.  The support stiffener braces were un spot welded, holes filled and new pairs drilled so they can be mounted to the panel.

After coats of eastwood etching primer, eastwood high build primer and finally their extreme chassis black top coat its painted both sides now. Its sitting in garage with heat set to 80 for next 48 hours while it cures.

Here is some pictures of the ordeal.

[madmike3434]

more pictures of the redo of the floor pan.

[madmike3434]

finally done with the backside , we turn our attention to the top show side freshly painted at 9 pm new years eve.

Last thing to do after the 48 hours cure time is to attach the whatever amount of 10/32 stainless button head bolts that hold the braces/stiffeners to the underside of the panel, with a touch of anti seize to the bolts and nylocks.

[sixball]

WOW, Nice work.

[madmike3434]

while I was beavering away on the rumble seat floor I also got involved with the rear frame crossmember.

This was an exercise in my patience and perseverance .  I used eastwoods acid etching primer as the base after I had the panel blasted inside and out with 80 grit.  From there ir was multiple coats of eastwoods poly high fill primer.  Sand and sand and sand .  Think its ready , LMAO, there was still pock marks in the primer, so out comes the spot putty and away we go. Sand and sand and sand some more, more high build primer and sand that too.  Not just doing one side here folks, doing it underside also.  This seemed to go on and on forever.  Finally I think I got it nailed, NOPE, wiped it down with silicon wax polish and grease remover, WHAT THE HELL, where did those pin holes come from.  Out comes sheets of 240 and then 320 and a flexible block.  GOT IT, wiped it and finally ready to spray.......did it and 48 hours later its cured.  Flip it over and reverse mask it and spray the inside. 

From friends dropping around, "why you spending so much time on that crossmember , its under the body" .  Simply it was there and needed to be done my way.

** Short story....a guy approached me about buying my coupe, wanted to trade me an extremely well done 53 chev.  A friend did the trade instead for his 26 t coupe.  2 years later I run into him and he has the 26 coupe there and its unbelievable, ended up a full centerspread in one of the mags in 80's .  I am looking this 26 over and I am amazed at the total quality.  Then I look underneath and its spotless , except for the rear end,.,  He just blasted the rear and left all the pock marks in it.  I pointed it out to him as considering the quality of the car he missed or fluffed it off.
Next spring pierre is back and he is yelling at me from the top of a trailer, lynchie , lynchie, come here.  So I go over, ya whatcha want...........look underneath he says, so I get down and that rear end is like a sheet of glass, I say why didn't you do that first time  ??  He laughed I laughed.

Next step to get the frame X member parts and use the air chisel to get the MIG weld splatter off the insides and take it too the blaster to get an even surface to apply etching primer .

The adventure continues........mike lynch

[madmike3434]

4 more pics

I also removed the stamping draw marks on the rearmost part, inside and out, to give it that smoothness.

I am more than happy to say bye bye to this panel

mike lynch         

[sammons]

That's some nice work Mike. Really looks good.

[ghost28]

You and a good friend of mine have the same attention to detail. Looks good

[madmike3434]

thanks guys, its amazing what you find when you take pictures of something and load it into your computer files.

like holy crap batman where did those 2 pock marks come from, gimmi the spot putty and away we go. 

I might have to check into the rubber room a couple of times before this is car is over and done.

mike .......

[madmike3435]

SHAZZBOTT...........my 1935 Chevrolet roadster, another piece gets worked on.

Took my cowl section up to Fawcett Motors to get repaired and to fit my austrailian Carter duvall style windshield to it.  Well Shazzbott is one tough piece, virtually everything on the body has been damaged in some way.  On the cowl section top you can see the extent of the damage that was covered over with 3/8" of plastic fill to hide the holes.  The cowl vent area is especially rusted out and not sure if the area could be repaired to have a working cowl vent.

So as you can see in the second set of pictures , the new panels have been formed and welded in , along with the windshield posts holes are also filled .   Note the beautiful  bead roll that perfectly matches the stock one.  This was first formed partially on an English wheel  According to Peter the body guy the hardest part was getting the metal on the other side of the bead to fold over.  An oak collar that ties the two wood door posts , slips under the fold over and it gets nailed to the wood.

Now the Carter duvall aluminum windshield frame from Australia can be fit to the cowl top.  Unfortunately the windshield is going to have to be narrowed 3/4--1" per side to get a perfect tight fit against the top of the cowl.  Apparently the HOLDEN australia chevrolet roadster cowl is 2" wider than the north American stamping.  Peter at Fawcetts has a retired GM of Canada welder retired he uses for such things as aluminum.  Contrary to what they say , aluminum is not easy to do.

mike lynch.................

[madmike3435]

The cowl panel repaired and filled with new metal, next step metal finishing.

mike lynch   

[vette59jdwl]

Looking good mike   i never knew that your cowl was that much worse than mine  Mine looks like almost brand new compared to that hunk  lol lol vette59jdwl