[chopper526]

Here's my situation and I am hoping to get feedback from you guys, what you did and what you think:

     I was going over my car getting ready for the summer and I realize my tail lights are not quite as bright as I would like, also I have to push down with considerable pressure for them to go on. The harder I push, the brighter they get. The brake lights work off of a pressure switch that I recently replaced. Swich, proportionong valve and master cylinder are from Speedway. Any ideas? Also, anybody convert their tail lights to LED? Thanks! Jim

[FATnLOW]

Chopper...I have never used a Pressure Switch in the brake line...I used the lever type switch from Speedway that is activated by the brake pedal also  have 40 ford style LED tail lights ...so hopefully I'll be alright with the tail/brake light

[madmike3435]

You can get the correct bulbs from ron francis wire works, they are called BRIGHT or BRITE  BULBS.   I also use the lever arm type brake light activator .

The LED bulbs are definately brighter.  You did not say what tail lights your running.

 Check on ebay to see if somebody produces an LED package for your tail lights.

I run GE #1 HALOGEN BULBS , which are the bulbs that go in your lower late model driving lights.  I use them for stop lights in my 33--36 tail lights and also in a pair of Harley Davidson bagger type .   Small chrome bullet type lights , come in red lens or white.  I have them mounted on sides of my luggage rack as a 3rd light set.  They get real hot so no plastic lenses, they will melt,  if your in stop and go traffic a lot.

mike         

[chopper526]

Sorry, I am using 1948 Chevy tail lights, from Speedway, with 1157 bulbs and glass lenses.

[madmike3435]

TYPED IN   ebay usa " 1948 CHEVROLET TAIL LIGHTS LED " , first one to pop up was the lincoln Nebraska seller that I can never remember the name of and I have their catalogues here.

finally just popped into my head .......speedway motors  and reasonably priced.

there was even some clear ones that become red when you hit the brake.

mike              

[voided]

ive heard of many people having similar problems with the pressure switch as you stated.

id go to a more common lever switch so its either off or on and not depending on how much pressure you apply

[ghost28]

I have never had a problem with a pressure switch, but I have also heard of them giving others a problem. They come factory on Harley motorcycles. Where is line do you have your switch, and normally the switch is either on or not, but not gradualy getting brighter by pressure? STUMPER.

[chopper526]

The pressure switch sits on top of the proportiong valve. I bought the unit from Speedway. Last year the switch went and I replaced it with another switch from Speedway. The harder I push the pedal down the brighter the lights get. I am wondering if there may be some air in the line? Could that affect the lights? I guess it couldn't hurt to bleed the system.
I don't want to jump too quickly but I don't want to waste any time or take any chances, so I already ordered an LED set up today to convert from incandescant bulbs. If that doesn't make a difference I guess I will try a mechanical switch.

[TFoch]

I have a pressure switch and have had no problems.  I bought it from a local hot rod shop and was told it takes less pressure than a standard one.  I tried to use the Ron Francis Bright Bulbs but they both burnt out after 1,400 miles on the car.  They got hot in the stock tail lights I have and weren't vented enough.  Now i use #2357 which are brighter than #1157 and haven't had a problem.
Tom

[62131]

I use a mechanical switch on both my cars. I converted the 38 tail lights to LED and I have plans to do the same on my 32. They use less current and are a lot brighter than conventional bulbs, they run cooler to.

[chopper526]

So I'm sitting in work yesterday thinking about something Ghost said in his post about my tail lights "the switch is either on or not". And I thought, he is 100% correct!
I went home and I asked my son, who had been watching the tail lights as I pushed down on the brake pedal, what he saw...EXACTLY!
He said he THOUGHT the lights were getting brighter as I pushed the pedal down further......now I feel like a dope.
I turned off the garage lights, sat in the car and pushed the pedal down. The lights never got brighter or dimmer regardless of the pressure on the brake pedal. However, it does take quite a bit of pressure before the lights go on.
I am still going to replace the incandescants with the LED's, but I am now leaning toward air in the brake line. Does that make sense?

[TFoch]

I believe this is the one I got.  http://www.summitracing.com/parts/rfw-sw32/overview/

Here's the description:  These hydraulic brake light switches offer longer life, silicone fluid compatibility, and they're DOT-compliant. Ron Francis low-pressure switches fit most cars and require only 20-50 lbs. of pressure to come on--much less than stock units need! Make your brake lights quicker and avoid being bumped with low-pressure hydraulic brake light switches from Ron Francis Wiring.

[chopper526]

Thanks, TFOCH!! That may be just what I need. I never realized they had different pressure specs. The next part to order.

[62131]

So I'm sitting in work yesterday thinking about something Ghost said in his post about my tail lights "the switch is either on or not". And I thought, he is 100% correct!
I went home and I asked my son, who had been watching the tail lights as I pushed down on the brake pedal, what he saw...EXACTLY!
He said he THOUGHT the lights were getting brighter as I pushed the pedal down further......now I feel like a dope.
I turned off the garage lights, sat in the car and pushed the pedal down. The lights never got brighter or dimmer regardless of the pressure on the brake pedal. However, it does take quite a bit of pressure before the lights go on.
I am still going to replace the incandescants with the LED's, but I am now leaning toward air in the brake line. Does that make sense?

Chopper    just a thought did you bleed each component of your brake system individually or put the system together then bleed it?

[chopper526]

I bench-bled the master cylinder, then I bled the system as a whole. It couldn't hurt to bleed the system again.