[EDNY]

sammons

Getting ready to strip off the original paint on my 33 Chevy and prep it for paint.  The steel car has fiberglass fenders and will obviously need some body plastic work.

My goal is a single stage paint job with a double base so I can sand through for a patina look and finish with clear satin.  Intent is to make it a driver not a show car.

I need a sealer (primer?)  that can accept my single stage paint layers , ### how important is getting the original lacquer out of the (for example) drip rails of the deck lid? Those hard to reach areas.

* What sealer and thinner do I need to start with that will work on steel and fiberglass?

* Another area of concern is welding some areas where brass was used years ago.

* Not sure if I should use lead on the original roof seams or is there a good substitute for the lead?

Thanks

[sammons]

Ed, if your hard to reach lacquer areas are still good, (not cracked out or flaking), your good. For what your going for, i'd just use high solids lacqure primer. It'll accept about any top coat, regaurdless of what others may say. I still use it under lacquer, enamel or base clear. Took me many tests and sent in test panels to prove it to my PPG (Ditzler) supplier to get my approval for paint warentees.  It will prime sheet metal and fiberglass. I've been using 5 Star lacquer primer (since PPG quit handling it).
Drys quick, blocks well and is much cheaper than the epoxies.

Rule of thumb, you can pretty much paint anything over lacquer, but not lacquer over anything else unless its a factory baked part. Too wet of coats and it would tend to wrinkel under.

With the brazed repairs, you ok. Biggest problem with the brass is getting all the flux wire brushed off. If it was cleaned before previous paint and stuck, didn't crack out your good. Lead has a tendency to crack at joints that are spot welded where it flexes. Late 60s on GM just used plastic filler on roof joints.

[EDNY]

Thanks sammons I'm now looking forward to getting this done.

Great info

[sammons]

Ed forgot to tell you, your may want to use non sanding sealer before color. I usually use it unless i'm painting something thats heavy use. Dad always said cheap insurence against unknown under coats on repaints. They make 1k premix, just stir, strain and apply. No need for additives or reducer. When you use what you need, you can pour it back in the can for something else later. If you are going with base coat/clear coat i'd go with the 2k non sanding. Its much more and you need activator/reducer and it has a short pot life.

A good percent of lacquer primer is mechanical bond. I like 80 grit on bare metal, 180 on fiberglass. Prep wipe cleaner and tack rag befor application. Clean is key to prep work on any prime, paint.

I looked up 5 star primer, thinner and 1k sealer. TP tool and equipment has a good price.

[sammons]

My brother has been using Summit single stage urethane on his projects with good results. Got tired of spending $3000 on bc/cc paint for his drivers.

[EDNY]

sammons....again - I thank you...was busy today working on a stump grinder...just got inside.

[EDNY]

To be clear, once I'm down to bare metal (80 grit) and fiberglass (180 grit). I lay down a coat of lacquer primer (thin-able), then a coat of non sanding sealer, then my single stage colors?

[sammons]

Yep. Like i said, before prime make sure to clean well. You can sand/ block recoat till your happy and final sand with 360 to 400. When your ready to paint, rewipe spray non sanding sealer and then paint.

[EDNY]

Yep. Like i said, before prime make sure to clean well. You can sand/ block recoat till your happy and final sand with 360 to 400. When your ready to paint, rewipe spray non sanding sealer and then paint.

Got it!

Thanks again

[Essex_29]

Ed, if you are going for a sanded through patina look, I have an
important lesson I learned myself, when going for that look on
my Essex in 2008.
My profesdional painter buddy told me that I don’t need to sand
between colors if I spray them inside 24 hours. This is true, but
not any good for making fake patina.
I had orange peel on the underlying oxide red color and that was
no good at all. The result looked just awful, so I paimted it black
one more time.
The result in the pic below. The orange peel made it dotty and left
It looking real bad.
Don’t do it like I did. Sand flat with fine grit (320 or 400) before
adding the top color coat.
I might try this again some day.

[EDNY]

Ed, if you are going for a sanded through patina look, I have an
important lesson I learned myself, when going for that look on
my Essex in 2008.
My profesdional painter buddy told me that I don?t need to sand
between colors if I spray them inside 24 hours. This is true, but
not any good for making fake patina.
I had orange peel on the underlying oxide red color and that was
no good at all. The result looked just awful, so I paimted it black
one more time.
The result in the pic below. The orange peel made it dotty and left
It looking real bad.
Don?t do it like I did. Sand flat with fine grit (320 or 400) before
adding the top color coat.
I might try this again some day.

Nice tip Thanks...I'm also thinking about painting some fake rust spots in certain areas (fender body joints etc), need some help with that.

[EDNY]

sammons

That outfit (tptools.com) has some great prices and shipping is very reasonable..Thanks

I know you can't really determine the amount(s) required for my 5W coupe..but can you give me a ball park figure.  Don't mind too much vs not enough when needed.  Do the coatings have a shelf life?

Thanks

[sammons]

Ed, i'd take a guess. Depending on how much sanding/blocking you do 1 to 1/2 gallon primer, probably about same in thinner. Their sealer, haven't used that, but normally 1-2 qts.

As far as shelf life.... a long time if you keep the lid tight after use.  My brother ran across a lady cleaning out her garage 5yrs ago. Had an unopened gallon of PPG  lacqure primer from the late 60s. I told him as long as it was not chunky he was fine. Opened it up, all smooth and no seperation or chunkies. He said it sprayed, sanded just like new. Its been under the single stage urethane he painted his Toyota FJ 40 for 5yrs now. I know the old PPG premix sealer lasted a long time before it got chunkie also.

[EDNY]

Thanks

Have seen folks using cellophane to seal the lids, especially POR15.  Found a post where the individual used a sponge and thinner (fresh paint) to create the patina...kinda makes sense.

BTW: This color and patina (not overdone) has caught my eyes for years now...not sure how to describe the color.  I really like it..blue/green??

[sammons]

Cool, i kinda like that.

Funny, my buddy years ago was gonna paint rust patina over base coat before clearing. He couldn't find his airbrush, so he took his wifes make up airbrush. Said he had a tough time getting it spotless to return. He got caught when she got it out because she could smell the lacquer thinner he used to clean it. Lol she made him buy her a new one😁