Well, before the removal of methylene cloride from paint stripper, i'd say paint stripper. Was quick and bit messy, but it worked. People use to waist their money on $60 a gallon "Aircraft" paint remover. We tried that crap, the cheap stripper at the lumber yard "Zing" worked faster and more complete and only $8 a gallon.If your 33 still has the original nitrocelluelose lacqure, acitone and 00 or 000 steelwool should remove it. 80 grit on a DA works pretty good on original paint. Best i have for ya. If you have an old hardware store/lumber yard, you may go thru their strippers and see if you can find an old gallon that contains methylene cloride. Don't remember how long ago they outlawed production of that. 10 yrs ago, i found a gallon of it at an old small town lumberyard.
Ed that tool you pictured, i am not familier with so i can't comment on it. Looks like a heavy scotchbrite roller.
80 grit on a DA works just fine. I did that recntly on my Buick, it's tedious, but fairly effective. I think it took me 50 sanding discs. I guess I could've done it with less, but I changed them pretty often to save on elbow grease. Only real effective way to save on the discs is to sand away as much as you can, avoiding going through to the sheetmetal. That way you get more mileage out of the first disc. The sanding discs go dull pretty darn fast when you hit metal.It's not fun but it's doable. I did it the same way with my '68 BelAir wagon a few years ago, the acerage was... it was huge.Just don't sand blast it. Not ever.A friend had his '59 impala sand blasted even after I told him to not do it. The whole car was wavy, it was totally wrecked.Soda blasting might do the trick, but it's way expensive.After the 80 grit, smooth it over with 180 grit on the D/A for perfect bite and finish for the epoxy.
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