Welcome to Rusty Bowtie. Please login or sign up.

Shoutbox


Recent

Members
Stats
  • Total Posts: 29,535
  • Total Topics: 2,997
  • Online today: 160
  • Online ever: 5,574 (May 14, 2026, 07:15:04 PM)
Users Online
  • Users: 0
  • Guests: 28
  • Total: 28
28 Guests, 0 Users

'46-8 Ford chop rescue

Started by sammons, May 31, 2016, 02:06:40 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

sammons

Sorry fellas, I though I had better move this to "other" section. I didn't mean to hijack the main board with a Ford, it just kinda snowball'd. :o
Wasn't going to start a thread on this but....it might give other an idea on how to fix somebodys screw up..... or watch me screw up.

I really never liked the looks of the '41-48 Fords, with the exception of a well done convertable or a Carson top custom.  Shane came up with another '48 business coupe, but too complete to use as a doaner. Recap: It was a bad attempt to do a hard 7" chop. The original butcher bailed and sold to a guy who didn't look close enough. That guy built a nice frame and incorperated a C4 Corvette complete suspension. He had a bodyman look at the mess and bailed, selling it to my buddy. I'm broke so I agreed to straighten out the rear of the top. The more I look, the more I find. :o  So right or wrong, here I go. Hopefully it will be a save.

sammons

#1
I removed the bad rear top, finding cowl had settled back 3/8" due to no bracing when they cut the orig top off. Also the left side windshield open was 5/16" higher than the right, so whole top has to come off. I fabed up a trunk hinge rear support cause they cut it out. No 2dr donor car so 4dr sedan will have to work. Caught up, close enough.

Ok, today lots of thinking. I plan on useing the front section of the roof for replacement. I need to separate the three layers roof/ door jamb/ and the drip moulding which is sandwiched in the middle.

ghost28

It will be a bad ass custom when you get it straightened out, Thankfully you have that 4 door donor to help with the cleanup. GO SAMMONS GO SAMMONS HES OUR MAN. ;D

vette59jdwl

#3
Sammons  most of us here know that the first thing that one has to do when one takes on a project street rod or a resto mod of some of these pre 1950 cars we have to take many pictures from many many angles and measure at least twice.Then we have to take the whole car apart especially pre 40's cars.We have to go right down to the frame then build the frame up with hydraulic brakes front and rear a more modern engine box the frame change the steering float the rear.When we have everything done the engine will start and the frame will move,Then is the time to do the body we have to mock everything up including all the brasing. once we have the sube frame built either new or modified to a steel structure then is the time to assemble the body.lots and lots of work I just seen a repo body in steel of a 1940's ford bare body 14 thousand bucks us.Your work is of the utmost and i sure am glad it is you doing the job and not me i have confidence in you  lets see some more pictures and how you build this correctly  your buddy has one hell of a good friens YOU and i don't care how much he is paying you its a job that few would tackle good luck my friend   vette59jdwl

FATnLOW

I always thought these cars were butt ugly...it needed some thing to detract from the rear  of the car and the height of the roof..looking at the chopped version of  this car it looks better..it will be interesting to see what Steve  can do to  rescue this failed attempt of a chop and  also to know the hours to bring it back correctly. Along with all  those hours I would venture to say that a few cuss words will  used :-\

sammons

#5
Whoa there fellas, thanks for the kind words and encouragement but I'm no metal wizard by no means.  It's not rocket science, it's just sheet metal (as dad would say) ;D  Although I have never chopped this style roof, It doesn't scare me. Maybe it should?  I've always enjoyed a challange, but this shouldn't be to bad. I can't screw it up nearly as bad as it was. ;)

Had to quit early before I got the top completly split apart. I could no longer pull the drill trigger with either hand, and was really shaking. Try to give her another go in the morn.

Now here is way I picture this in my head, just a little lower roof. Note the rear drip moulding doesn't make the "S" curve following the rear roof line. Kind of fallows the qtr window. It's a thought anyway :)

chopper526

Yes, I see what you are talking about with the drip molding. Originally it looks like it sweeps back to the trunk line, so how would you finish it off? Would it just come to a stop? It is hard to tell in the last picture how they did it.
Tighten it up til it strips, then back it off a quarter turn

sammons

Chopper, I think it just stops at the body line just like the front. I wish I could see a side/ rear view of that car. I probably won't do it, but I sent Shane the pic, it's up to him.

Well I over worked my hands. Woke up at 1:30 with really bad pain in my good left wrist/ fingers. Oxycodone didn't even make a dent in the pain.  >:(   One handed today for shure, I hope it goes away quick. Hopeing just a day or three.  ;D  I need to get back to it!

madmike3435

YOU NEED SOMEBODY WHO LIKES TO HANG AROUND WITH YOU AND DO THE GRUNT OR ""EXCESSIVE USE OF HANDS"" WORK.

OFFER THEM A NICE LUNCH AND SOME COLD BEER AND COOL BREEZE AS AN INCENTIVE TO KEEP HANGING AROUND.

MIGHT WORK ?

MIKE

chopper526

I wish I lived closer, it would sure work on me!! ;D
Tighten it up til it strips, then back it off a quarter turn

ghost28

#10
i think the hardest chop I ever did was 51 merc 4 door. yikes and never again. Sammons take it slow and easy because as you and your father have stated (it's only sheetmetal) I found a 47 chopped version that show the drip rail pretty good. I think if you worked it you could delete some of the drip rail and make it look good.

sammons

Mike, I tried that even before I closed the business. Met with a couple young guy's, both car savy as far as r&r parts goes. Hell one I even offered to teach and pay.  Seems they like cars, just not the time it takes to acquire the skill. Younger crowd 16-18, don't know. You can't find any out and about, guess they stay home on the computer. We used to get kids every year till they killed the "work study" program down at the high school. I hope my 11yr old nephew holds his interest, just wish he was a little older. He is a good hand.

Good news, I can move my thumb and wrist a bit this morn, just 4 more digits to go. ;D

Ghost I always thought them 4dr Mercs looked like a whole lotta work. Too many jambs!

I found side/rear pic of that black 46. Shure looked better from the front. Found a b/w pic of an old chop that has the rear flow I want, but I personally don't like the qtr window shorter in highth.

sammons

Finally got back at it yesterday and got the donor front top/windshield pillar separated. Kinda going the long way about it due to it being a 4dr. Needed the frame work separated from the skin. I looked at all the surface rust under there and took the easy way out. Put some acid in the weed sprayer, whole lot faster/easier than sanding.

Hands still tender and swelled up on me over night. But, I think I'm about done with drilling spot welds now anyway. Should get easier from here on out.

EDNY

Quote from: sammons on June 04, 2016, 08:49:33 AM
Finally got back at it yesterday and got the donor front top/windshield pillar separated. Kinda going the long way about it due to it being a 4dr. Needed the frame work separated from the skin. I looked at all the surface rust under there and took the easy way out. Put some acid in the weed sprayer, whole lot faster/easier than sanding.

Hands still tender and swelled up on me over night. But, I think I'm about done with drilling spot welds now anyway. Should get easier from here on out.

Damn..thought I had messed up fingers..you win "hands down".    You're still an artist! ;)
33 Chevy 5 Window, 34 Chevy 3 Window, 37 Chevy 4dr sedan

sammons

Haha, and that's my good hand. ;D

Well she's topless! Note the big gap (pillar post) they left in the inner frame. That's why I needed the substructure (frame). It was like this on all most all of their cuts. ::)

Tomorrow I will set cowl back up and weld up some braceing. (I hope)