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Wood to Steel Conversion 32 Chevy Example

Started by EDNY, September 13, 2015, 10:08:37 PM

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chopper526

Rattiac, I kept my stock window regulators, they work fine and are simple. As far as the door handles/latches, I went with bearclaw latches, they are much safer than the original. The ones I bought came with a mounting plate that has to be fabricated into the door. You also have to fabricate linkage to the interior/exterior door handles. It's a little tricky, but if I can do it anyone can.
Tighten it up til it strips, then back it off a quarter turn

chopper526

Rattiac, here's a couple pictures. I thought I had more and better pictures but this is all I can find. I hope this helps....a little.
Tighten it up til it strips, then back it off a quarter turn

62131

I also went with bear claw due to the safety of the latch, if you decide to go that way purchase the installation brackets as it makes it a breeze to install

Rattiac

So, will my factory door handles work with these latches???

62131

you might be able to make them work with a little thought, I shaved my doors handles and I'm using a solenoid to operate my latches

chopper526

#35
My interior handles fit with no problem. My exterior handles I had to move below the beltline because they interfered with the latch.
Tighten it up til it strips, then back it off a quarter turn

Rattiac

I think, for now. I'll keep the original latches.
No need to make a huge project more confusing.

Once everything is nice and straight,  I'll come back and change those out.

Rattiac

OK this winter I need to get serious about doing this. Started a few measurements and getting an idea of how much steel to order.

I'll be asking a few questions here.

1st).
The doors need to come off. Which way would be best. Popping the pin out (if possible) OR unscrewing them from the body ???

62131

I believe I would pull the pins as I'm sure the bushing are worn and need to be replaced if you haven't already done so. That will have effects on setting you door gaps when you reinstall them.

sammons

Rattiac, popping the pin out would be cool to start. Your Pontiac doesn't look all rusty like most i've delt with, you might get lucky! ;D But... they can really be hard to get sometimes. You should have a little hole for oil that can be accesed when door is open(from the inside of hinge), make sure to squirt well weeks before with penetrating spray.  I got lucky on one of mine as the pin was already out and a bolt dropped in for a pin ;) the other, noway was it even budging. Had to pull screws, then soaked it in muratic acid for an hour, and bingo... drove right out.

chopper526

#40
Agree with Sammons and 62131. But I would say take it all apart anyway so you can inspect/replace hinge pins and bushings, rusted hinge screws. And since you are replacing wood with metal the hinges may be in the way.
Tighten it up til it strips, then back it off a quarter turn

ghost28

Quote from: Rattiac on July 27, 2017, 09:34:30 PM
OK this winter I need to get serious about doing this. Started a few measurements and getting an idea of how much steel to order.

I'll be asking a few questions here.

1st).
The doors need to come off. Which way would be best. Popping the pin out (if possible) OR unscrewing them from the body ???
Cool another project to watch go together.  goodluck with it.

madmike3435

#42
you may find that the hinges are held on ,   with threaded bolts fine thread , that screw into special threaded connectors on the back of the post , that have nails to hold them too the wood.  That's factory.

Not sure if they are still available , but you can go to home depot and buy T-NUTS in various sizes.  These have spikes on the back. Tap them in position and use tiny drill on the points impressions and then hammer them.  IF you change mind and do as original.

Spray the back of the wood where threaded bolts come thru with rust buster type stuff.

Problem with steeling a car out, is it then sounds like a ford when closing the doors. CLANK !!!!!!!!!!! >:(   Rather than CLICK THUD  ;D of a wood framed car.

Just saying.

mike       8)

Rattiac

#43
Thanks for the tips guy's. Much appreciated.

I use T-nuts at work alot for boats and other stuff.
If the car was worth more (say rare 2 Dr), I probably would go original, but it's not.
Besides wood scares me at 70mph. 8)
I'll do some sound proofing to bring the thud back and make it not sound like a tin shed.

There are major plans for the interior in the future.
Already have materials for the benches and the carpet.  ;D





madmike3435

wood and metal together flex and generally return to shape..................metal to metal................well just bends and may need jaws of life to get you out if bad accident.

I remember seeing talk about model a 2 door and Chevrolet 2 door and 2000 pounds ??? placed over right front corner of the roof.

Model A buckled door post badly and chevy cracked windshield glass or side door glass ??

CLICK THUD........

mike        ;D ;D ;D