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28 Chevy Roadster

Started by 28chevyguy, January 18, 2015, 08:21:17 PM

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madmike3435

#90
picture I posted of my 35 coupe in da weeds is now running a kugel IFS.  Could not find the old pictures of the coupe with the beam axle , but it sat that low.

The guy I sold the axle too still has it, was going to use it on a 27 ford coupe with quarter elliptical springs and changed mind.

below is link to page for center hood hinge

http://www.rootlieb.com/hood-hardware.html

mike     8)

28chevyguy

so I had a bunch of projects jump in front of this one....   Im finally getting my butt back in gear...

I need some help from this forum …  Im going to post some updates and questions that can hopefully lead me where I need to be.

I will make a list of ALL the parts actually on the car and what it needs . 



TFoch

Spending time with my grandkids gets in the way of finishing my car but I don't regret it!

chopper526

Tighten it up til it strips, then back it off a quarter turn

62131

Let's see what you got or need

sixball

Chevy roadsters are my favorite! Maybe you'll inspire me.
The probability of life originating from accident is comparable to the probability of the unabridged dictionary resulting from an explosion in a printing shop.  Edwin Conklin

28chevyguy

Dropped axle from syd  " 3" 54" Axle / Spindles/ arms "
Front springs are rebuilt and have dropped spindles from speedway,  have 6 degree caster shims... may be too much have to check the actual angle it is at now .  Might need softer shims OR put the original shackles back on . Might be too much caster again, not sure yet.

1955 (supposedly) 1/2 ton truck column,  frame notched to keep column straight.   
Question being , the pitman has a flat groove and only goes on one way,  wondering what I need to do for the DRAG LINK.

Running a late model 305 with world class T5  ,  motor mounts and trans mount are done .
Have pedal assembly installed/ welded  for hydraulic clutch / brakes , this should be straight forward, pedals are chopped and clamped to find the right position ... I pretty much have this situation under control.

I want to run DISC brakes in the front but retain the 6 lug,  I will need conversion kit for 50's Chevy Truck ... again this should be straight forward , going to kick the wheels out even more but I'm going to have to accept what ever turns out at this point.

Rear end is 70's Truck 3.55 posi .   Probably needs axle clips replaced , a little in out play... should be straight forward






madmike3434

not sure if you can buy the right drag pitman arm, but what people do is to cut everything away except the SPLINED AREA.  Make a new pitman arm , align to right location and mark with soap stone and fit the cut out part , over the cast part , where the spline is.  1/4" or 3/8 plate would be ideal.  Use high powered arc welder with nickel silver rod.

I think 54" wide axle is too wide, 49--50" is more normal.  You can get disc brake kits for 49--54 passenger car spindles, also corvette 53--62 .  TOO wide a front end looks funny and awkward .

1960--70's builds like yours used mustang steering box mounted upside down so pitman arm was outside the frame.  Box mounted to a plate that either welded to frame or bolted.  Pete and Jakes pioneered that system.

Drag link arm box to front wheel........1" steel pipe , 1/4" wall , with 1/2" hole in it to drill out and tap for a spherical rod end .  Use larger washer to cover the spherical rod end ball section.  Same also used on steering arm front wheel.  Preferred rod end size is 5/8 hole and thread.

mike lynch

28chevyguy

such great information Madmike  , interpreting every single thing you say is a task as im not a pro scratch rod builder as a lot of you guys here

so with the column / steering wheel centered ( the best I can that is )  Is it ok if the pitman arm is Not straight up and down? Looking at everything from the side of the car , the pitman arm is about 5 oclock . 


I need to get some steering action first things first.   Pedals are getting ironed out as we speak so that's a PLUS . 

madmike3434

steering arm should be straight up and down, that way you have same turning radius going left or right.

Measure straight wheel over to the frame to see how far it turns then do other side .  Now turn the wheel maximum and see what you get for each side.  Then make a decision as to whether you are okay with it or want to fix it ?

Non of us here are pro-builders that I am aware of, we are just like you with more experience because we have done it before.

mike lynch

28chevyguy

still lots to do … I always come back here to re- read the advice that has been givin… This thread is like a diary for the car …

well anyway ,  got the motor running today... just had to hear it run , put new oil and filter on ,  tossed on edelbrock carb , dropped in an old HEI sitting around ,   wired up a ignition switch with key .  I know I got lots left to do but I needed the motivation.

I always have cars jumping in front of this one... 68 camaro out of no where, I also have a turbo Pontiac FWD that I drag race , built it about 10-12 years ago .  currently cam is broken clean in half … this is after years of racing and abuse.   I need one week solid with this car then I can jump back on the roadster.

Thanks again everyone for all the help , Madmike for all the suspsension /steering advice ,  also Tom thanks for that Alt blue print !!

TFoch

#101
Keep at it!  You'll get it done ;D  How about a picture of your Pontiac drag car.
Tom
Spending time with my grandkids gets in the way of finishing my car but I don't regret it!