[28chevyguy]

28 Roadster in progress .   

[TFoch]

Looking great!  These things take time but it's worth it when you get to take it for a ride.  Any pics of the front?
Tom

[ghost28]

That's cleaning up nice, and as Tom said they take time.

[62131]

Yes they take time I've been on mine for three years this month. Finally getting it in primer.

[chopper526]

Looking good from the back, 28chevyguy. Let's see some more pics. Half the fun, to me, is doing the work. Of course the other half is driving

[EDNY]

That rear shot shows great stance & attitude...nice job.

[28chevyguy]

Thanks for the motivation guys.  the picture may be deceiving ...im really not sure about the rear stance... its high as hell - like 8 inches from top of tire to bottom of lip.  springs have been reconditioned but i think they might settle down more???  used the front shackles in the rear since they were shorter , fronts have a drop from speedway, front axle not installed yet.

[62131]

I had to use some 2" blocks on my rear to get  the height I needed.

[EDNY]

Thanks for the motivation guys.  the picture may be deceiving ...im really not sure about the rear stance... its high as hell - like 8 inches from top of tire to bottom of lip.  springs have been reconditioned but i think they might settle down more???  used the front shackles in the rear since they were shorter , fronts have a drop from speedway, front axle not installed yet.

Probably need to get the front ride height set up before worrying about the rear height?...I assume you have leaf springs in the back..if so, maybe your local spring shop can de-arc the springs to lower the ride height?  I'm not up on de-arcing springs...maybe someone else can jump in.

Been thinking for my son's sedan..it might be worth the extra effort to just install a four link in the rear for height adjustment...since I need to change the rear axle anyway?

As 62131 mentioned...lowering blocks is another option that would work.



Ed

[madmike3434]

Thanks for the motivation guys.  the picture may be deceiving ...im really not sure about the rear stance... its high as hell - like 8 inches from top of tire to bottom of lip.  springs have been reconditioned but i think they might settle down more???  used the front shackles in the rear since they were shorter , fronts have a drop from speedway, front axle not installed yet.

You need to have the spring eyes reversed on the rear spring front and rear.  Will get car lower about 1 1/2".  After that to get lower you will need to have a spring shop *** de-arch *** the springs .  You might still employ the lowering blocks to get really low after the other stuff.

mike       

[28chevyguy]

looks like i will be dearching / reversing eyes if needed.

[chopper526]

I agree with Ed, get the front end where you want it first. I also did all of the things that Madmike suggested.  First, I had the local spring shop make me a new set of springs, front and rear. Too high! I had them shorten the springs and take out some arc. Too high. I had the shop reverse the eyes. Too high. I added 3" lowering blocks to the rear. Perfect! I had the front end out about 5 times and the rear out 3 times before I was satisfied. One thing about lowering blocks, try to buy quality, beefy blocks. The first pair I installed were a thin-walled hollow block. One of the blocks cracked after a very short time. The second set were also hollow but much thicker. No problems with them so far.

[madmike3434]

to effectively get the rear to sit right you basically have to have the rear spring totally de-arched until it is flat.

Now getting the front lower using a beam axle , we are talking a whole different animal.  With the 28----thru 32 cars the fender shape in the front is fairly consistent.   The stock drop on a 29--39 axle is about 4" and on a beam axle thats no where near enough to get your girlie "down in the weeds" .

I will post this picture of my 35 coupe when it had a beam axle.  If your doing beam axle I will I will post more how I did its.

mike     

[28chevyguy]

yes please !

[madmike3434]

You will need to acquire 1949--1953 chev passenger car spindles.

The stock 40--54 chev 1/2 ton axle isn't going to get you "down in the weeds"..  You will need a MOR-DROP axle from California with a 3" drop over stock . 

If you elect to go deeper with a 4 1/2 drop , be warned that's what is in the 35 coupe pictured with D70-15 tires about 24" tall.  Depending on the tire you use and height, the 24" tall tire, you could not get over a coke can laying on its side .  The taller the tire the more road axle clearance you have .

To clear your tie road steering bar you may have to space the bar lower using a 3/4" spherical rod end with 1--2" spacer.

The springs in the front can get the the reversed spring eye treatment and the de-arching also after you try the axle in the car and sit on the ground.

I AM NOT SURE if MOR_DROP is still in business   I sold my axle after running it on the street from 73---96 to a guy building a T coupe and he was going to use 1/4 eliptic front springs attached to it.  He still has the axle and owes me $300 for it .  I had it also narrowed to 44-46" width by heating and being bent in a forge by mor drop.

I picked up the stock 3"{ drop from mor drop at airport for friend bruce and installed his in my car over a couple of days with his permission.  My problem was width at 49-50" c-c  put the tire right under the fender edge.  It had to be much narrower of the 33--35 chevys to work.  bruces car was a 30 chevy and he installed his with no problem.

When I took car apart in 96 I bought a kugel IFS and installed that.  Still sits that wicked low...see picture and ride height is adjustable with coil over shocks.

mike--------------