I did not mention that by saying would not start, it won't even turn over. Just click...At one time a wire running to the transmission fell onto the exhaust pipe and got so hot it melted some of the insulation the bundle. I might not have fixed all of it. Maybe a short???
munch. I had a small block that did pretty much the same thing. just click and not turn over. My problem was with a bad solonoid on the starter. I believe what made it weak was being so close to the headers it got hotover and over, A few times after driving it, I had to cross the starter terminals with a screwdriver to get it to start. Just a thought...John
Munch, sorry I had you chasing the tach. I misunderstood your problem, I thought it was a firing problem (not a cranking). Here is a quick list to try, in order of probability. 1. Check solenoid terminal nuts for tightness. If tight, check that crimp on wire terminal is tight (slightly tug on wire to check crimp).2. Solenoid3. Break in soleinoid "crank" wire (between solenoid and ignition switch)4. Ignition switch out of adjustment (at the lower steering column, if GM style column)5. Bad ingnition switch.Also if heat is killing soleinoid as Ghost reffered too, I think that the Speedway mini starter has an adjustment to clock the solenoid to another (inboard) position, to get the most distance from the header.Hope you find it.
Munch, sorry I had you chasing the tach. I misunderstood your problem, I thought it was a firing problem (not a cranking). Here is a quick list to try, in order of probability. 1. Check solenoid terminal nuts for tightness. If tight, check that crimp on wire terminal is tight (slightly tug on wire to check crimp).2. Solenoid3. Break in soleinoid "crank" wire (between solenoid and ignition switch)4. Ignition switch out of adjustment (at the lower steering column, if GM style column)5. Bad ingnition switch.Also if heat is killing soleinoid as Ghost reffered too, I think that the Speedway mini starter has an adjustment to clock the solenoid to another (inboard) position, to get the most distance from the header.Hope you find it. Number 3 might be the problem. I dropped the started last night so I could remove the heat shield and check the wiring, and that heavy gauge wire that runs from the solenoid to ignition was loose at the round connector. Some of the wires were broken and I suppose that the voltage that the wire needs to support, that would cause a problem.I cut the round end off and I had a piece of wire in the wiring box that is just like it and already has the connector on it. Now I have to splice the to together, which is good because I need some extra length, but what is good to splice it with? Would a crimp connector hold up or should it be soldered? I think it is maybe 12 gauge.
Munch like Tom said, if it's easy enough to pull a new wire into the loom. But if you splice, I would use quality heat shrink insulation tubing and solder the splice. I solder everything I can, you will never have trouble with a good solder joint.
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