[EDNY]

Not happy with the aftermarket engine mount kits I just finished the motor and transmission mounts for my son’s 37 Chevy sedan.

Used the existing (2) front shocks holes on each frame rail, between the two holes are protruding rivets.  Took a piece of steel (3.25X7.5) and drilled four holes; (2) for the mounting bolt holes and (2) to clear the rivets. 

With the plate bolted down  I positioned the previously welded in motor mounts removed from the car earlier into place, set engine angle, tacked then welded them in.  This positioned the engine below the mounting point I had with the commercial clamp on style 37-39 Chevy motor mount kit.

This allowed me to place the engine farther back, clearing the firewall and permitted me to raise the transmission up in the rear for drive-line angle and floor insulation. Only “slight mod” to the floor plate is needed.

Moving to the tranny,  I used a pipe cutter to separate the cross member the previous owner welded and “tried” to use (not enough drop down).  I turned it upside down and welded drop down side supports that can be removed if required.  Made sure it will clear exhaust and the VSS/speedo sensor on the 4L60E.

Ed

[TFoch]

Nice work Ed!  Looks like it'll work fine.  Engine mounts are clean and simple
Tom

[themoose]

Looks great Ed..Clean and strong.

[munch]

Great work Ed, wish I had the welding skills.  Maybe one day.

[EDNY]

Here is what the trans X member looks like installed on the mock up 700R4...I put a spacer in there...but depending on tire size may need to remove it.

[chopper526]

Nice work Ed. The motor mounts have a custom look......I guess that's cause they are

[62131]

Ed the mounts look great nice job

[ghost28]

Some times our own ideas are slightly better than store bought, and you just proved it. Nice.

[Chucks36]

Looks like you still have part of the battery tray bracket still riveted to the frame.......have you figured out how to use the oem battery location with our aftermarket/homemade tranny cross members or are you going to relocate it.....maybe to the trunk?

Chuck

[Chucks36]

Oh and as far as the drop in the tranny cross member goes,  the cross member I picked up from CE had a 5" drop in it and it looks like the body will clear....I'll find out soon enough as the body is going back on the chassis next Friday 4/3.  Although I have a '36 and you're working on a '37

[EDNY]

Looks like you still have part of the battery tray bracket still riveted to the frame.......have you figured out how to use the oem battery location with our aftermarket/homemade tranny cross members or are you going to relocate it.....maybe to the trunk?

Chuck

Yes...my son wants the battery in the trunk...same place I have it located in my 33 Chevy.

Ed

[EDNY]

I have both the Mustang II front and 2001 Blazer rear axle installed. No springs up front yet, needed the driveline installed to compress the springs. Will move the rear axle back 1" and adjust the final height next week.

Have a pic of the LT1 engine/tranny dropped in...also included a "mock-up only" of how we are going to run the air intake above the plenum since there is so much room on top.


Oh Yeah...need to make the wiring harness...will have a bunch of extra wire when done!

[vette59jdwl]

Just a light suggestion Ed  why not take the air intake off the bottom of the windshield. Just make a plenum attach to the firewall and make an opening off the top of the cowl in front of the windscreen  nice coach  vette59jdwl

[EDNY]

Just a light suggestion Ed  why not take the air intake off the bottom of the windshield. Just make a plenum attach to the firewall and make an opening off the top of the cowl in front of the windscreen  nice coach  vette59jdwl

Prefer to use the windshield intake to get air into the car as intended...but thanks for the thought.

[EDNY]

Fired up my lathe today and bored out a radiator hose "T" connector for the LT1 rear head steam port line. The steam line feeds into the upper radiator hose.