Miscellaneous > Members Builds - Stocker -Streetrod - Ratrod - LowRider
1939 Frame build
39delux:
Next was to install the front end. As stated earlier this is a PAUL HORTON WELDER SERIES crossmember which comes as a flat plate 3/16" thick. It's all laser cut, even where it needs to be bent. He designed it in such a way that you just clamp it to the bench and use two pair of vice grips to bend it to a 90 degree angle. The result of the bend gives a perfect fit so that welding will be at it's strongest. Had to enlarge the holes for the lower A arm bolt sleeves. I won't go into any detail about locating the crossmember height because it's been covered many times by every mag on the market. Of course there are also detailed instructions that come with the flat plates. Once the front crossmember is in the perimeter frame is DONE. Only thing left to do is dream up some kind of "K" member to stop any twist and mount the trans to.
39delux:
Added a cross member at the front of the lower 4 bar with a driveshaft safety loop and holes for exhaust. Now it should be strong enough to take off the jig, flip it over and finish welding. Next step is to locate the engine mounts and trans mount. While doing the trans mount it make life easy to integrate the K member with it.
39delux:
Last installment for a while. All this work requires some refreshments. Boiled peanuts, rolled tacos, Hatch dip and something to wash it all down with. Actually, with all the work I had to step up to a little Mist. You may have noticed my welds (?) were all left handed and this causes a real problem in everyday life. Note the bottle is MADE for a RIGHT HANDED user. I tried using my right hand but it just didn't taste right.
39delux:
Local had a 5.3 engine/trans just like mine so I used it to locate the mounts and build the K member. Also, here is a picture of the donor car for my engine and trans. It had been setting around for 5 years when I got it. Engine happens to be an all aluminum 5.3 designated LM4. Only produced 2003/04. Drops about 100 lbs from the iron block. I'll need the savings because of the much beefier frame.
39delux:
With the engine in place the K member was designed around it and provides a solid floor support too. Once everything is located the engine/trans is removed and returned :( then it's on to paint. When I first got the steel I spent most of a day taking the power anti-rust off. Here is where it pays off. First I rolled on a coat of Rustoleum primer than followed up with Rustoleum black. This is a DRIVER and I'm sure there will be mods to the frame so no power coating. I've found that this method works well and touch-up is easy.
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