1932 Pontiac Six build

[chopper526]

Looks good, going to be a nice set up. Can't help with wiring, but I'll bet Ed has an idea.

[62131]

Your brake switch will have two sets of contacts n/o for brake lights and n/c for lock up release when brakes applied

[EDNY]

Basically fused power to the brake pedal (closed) switch that sends power to the trans, when you step on the pedal the circuit opens and cuts off the power to the trans.  Or - toggle on/off power to the trans...easier to use the brake pedal setup.

I would suggest you ask the builder if it is a 12V power circuit setup just to be sure.

[Rattiac]

So  I have the old school lever brake light switch with only 2 prongs.  Wouldn't that send power to my brake lights
I plan on using a toggle and the brake switch so I don't forget to shut it off. 

Decided to pull the front floor out to do the swap.
Tonight I need to undo the e-brake and the floor is ready to come out.

[62131]

Yes, it's a set of normally open contacts, when you step on the pedal it closes the contacts and your brakes light's come on, 

[Rattiac]

Damn, I just replaced that brake light switch. Guess I need to fab up a new setup  .

[Essex_29]

This is how I connected the lock up on my El Camino after an engeine and transmission swap. I’ll post a diagram as soon as I get home, for use with a normal two prong brake switch.

The diagram below will provide earth to the lock up solenoid in the transmission, which also requires a positive feed when the ignition is on.

[Essex_29]

Here comes. This is how I did in my '57 Pontiac when I had the normal two prong brake light switch.
This provides the lock up solenoid with +12 Volts, and the solenoid also needs to be grounded, ofcourse.



+ is positive, ignition on (fused).

#1 When the Lock up activator swith (toggle) is depressed the Relay activates the lock up solenoid.
#2 The red wire loops back to the relay, making it self energized, so the lock up stays activated when the toggle switch is released.
#3 Relay2 is connected Normally Closed ( std 5 prong light relay).
#4 When brakes are applied Relay2 activates, breaking the slef enerized circuit, and releases the Lock up.

This works very well. I added another toggle switch where everything is grounded to manually release the lock up, which can be convinient if you want to accellerate rapidly without moving your foot to blip the brake lights, to release the lock up.

If the lock up stays engaged for some reason, this is not too bad anyway because it disengages right before the car stops. The lock up only works in second through fourth gear.

[Rattiac]

Thanks guys. 👍
I picked up a new switch similar to 62131 posted above.  This will probably work out better than what I had,  more fine tune adjustment.

Called Classic Instruments about the speedometer gear. Should be able to swap it over to the new trans no problem.

In case ya missed it,  here's the cold start video.
https://youtu.be/nNFRysNxVcA

[Rattiac]

Mocked it up and Started making a new bracket last night.

[Essex_29]

Good luck with the wiring. Probably a good choice to go with the right kind of switch.

Good cold start video, great sound too. I couldn't have guessed that it was a V6, I was certain it was an inline!
I had a 4.3 in a '89 Caprice, it didn't sound like that at all.

[62131]

I used a rocker switch to lock up and the n/o contacts on the brake switch to unlock it

[Rattiac]

Well,  transmission is out.  I shoulda got extra hand removing it. 
One of my dowel pins has been missing for awhile.
I ordered another set from summit.  Should be here in a day or two. 
In the meantime I'll push the car out and clean up  the trans fluid lake. 😬

[62131]

That kind of mess is always around for a while even after you clean it up

[EDNY]

With the 200-4R pan off you should have a two prong pressure switch that grounds the lockup solenoid.

Via the square case external connector (3 pins used) the 12v feed should go directly to the (+) side of the lockup solenoid.  One prong on pressure switch gets grounded to the case,  the other prong feeds the (-) of the solenoid. NOTE: The (-) feed is split and a wire returns to the external case connector...you could use this extra (-) feed to ground an LED that already has a positive feed on your dash. (lights up when the pressure switch closes indicating lockup).