Welcome to Rusty Bowtie. Please login or sign up.

Shoutbox


Recent

Members
Stats
  • Total Posts: 29,535
  • Total Topics: 2,997
  • Online today: 139
  • Online ever: 5,574 (May 14, 2026, 07:15:04 PM)
Users Online
  • Users: 0
  • Guests: 48
  • Total: 48
48 Guests, 0 Users

Rear end

Started by 39delux, July 01, 2019, 09:38:57 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

39delux

More sheet metal progress today.  Got the covers for the pump and gauge made and installed in the trunk.  Cut the rest of the floor under the back seat out and bent a major floor piece.  still have to add some stiffeners to it before welding in place.  Took two hours just to cut the covers, layout, drill and tap.  The under seat piece also took several hours because I bent up a 2" wide strip to ensure proper fit when I bent the large piece. 

39delux

Getting close to finishing the sheet metal.  Added a few stiffeners to the metal under the rear seat.  Should finish this today and add seam sealer.  Once that's done I'll prime, paint and add undercoating. 

FATnLOW

A lot of top notch work...looks good

chopper526

Looks great 39delux! A little time consuming, eh?
Tighten it up til it strips, then back it off a quarter turn

39delux

This project has taken me longer than building a whole frame for the '39.  Today was blow it apart to seal and paint.  Took several months putting the rear end in and only 20 minutes to get it out.  Will pain the top and bottom of the new sheet metal with Rustoleum oil based then undercoat just the bottom side.  Seam seal on both sides first.  Once everything is painted then the gas tank goes back in (after the rear end) and run the fuel, brake and e-brake lines.  Still have to do the driveshaft but I think that's just a case of changing the rear u-joint, length is OK the way it is. 

Thanks for the kind words. 

TFoch

Spending time with my grandkids gets in the way of finishing my car but I don't regret it!

39delux

After painting the trunk floor and under the back seat I will lay down some sound/heat material and carpet over tat in the trunk.  Question is:  do I need more sound material under the seat and or under the trunk carpet?  If so, what?

chopper526

Here's what I used. I put it on the floors and inside trunk, doors, firewall, quarter panels and roof, basically covered the whole interior. I bought it from Lowes, it's much cheaper than Dynomat, and I think it has been great. No problems.
Tighten it up til it strips, then back it off a quarter turn

62131

I used the same thing, you can get it in a 36" x 100' roll also, it comes in gray, white or aluminum color. There is no smell after installation.

39delux

A little progress.  Chopper I did get a roll of the stuff from Lowes.  Applied it under the seat area, wheel tubs and seams in the trunk.  Over the top of that I'll put EZ Cool.  I've used EZ Cool before and it really works well for cutting down heat.  Unlike the bubble wrap this mat will not pop bubbles so using it on the floor is good. 

Installed the gas tank yesterday and started on the brake lines.  Only have a short run for the brake lines but it's a pain due to make a bend, crawl under the car, get back out, make another bend...repeat. 

Broke down and ordered a ring and pinion set.  Though I had 2.73 gears but turns out the are 2.59 (ouch).  Ordered 3.54 to the tune of $400.  Can't seem to find anyone who has the gear install kit. 

chopper526

That's really coming together nicely! I never used EZ Cool, I'll have to check it out.
Tighten it up til it strips, then back it off a quarter turn

sammons

Lookin good! Should be nice and quiet back there.

39delux

Before I started this project the car had zero rattles and was very quiet for an older car.  There was wind noise because of the side window set-back.  Hope to get back to that standard. 

Went to plumb the brakes and discovered the 1993 brake flex hoses are bubble flair.  Just one more thing to hold me up a day or two.  Will get a stick of 3/16 bubble flair, cut it in two and double flair one end of each to connect to my existing brake line. 

Looking for a place to mount the fuel filter regulator.  With the rear end out it looks like I have a ton of room but I'm sure wherever it's mounted will be in the way of something.

Wondering if the fuel pump will work.  Been setting for three months and may be gummed up.  Doesn't take much to burn a pump up.  Don't know of any way to clean the pump so it's a case of let her rip and if it does smoke just buy a new one.

39delux

Detour to change the gear ratio.  Could not find anyone local that wanted to do this job so it is up to me.  Original gears were 2.59 and I'm putting in 3.54.  Not a popular swap so the price of the gears is about double of, say a 9" Ford.  Got Richmond gears and they are made in Italy!!!!!  By the way, changing gears is one of two things I said I would not do, the other being a transmission.  I'm a slow worker when it comes to this new stuff so it took all day to disassemble the carrier.  Will be using new bearings/seals but bagging all the old stuff just to refer back "just in case".  This carrier does not use a crush washer so it requires multiple assembles to check the gear pattern.  Will hog out the old bearings a bit so they slip on and then, hopefully, when I press on the new bearing it will be right. 

sixball

I don't like doing rear ends. I get a bit impatient especially with the ring and pinion set up. I just inherited a tool set that should make it easier. We'll see, I have to do a gear change in the Dana 44 for my roadster.
Let us know how this goes.
The probability of life originating from accident is comparable to the probability of the unabridged dictionary resulting from an explosion in a printing shop.  Edwin Conklin