Rusty Bowtie
General Category => General Discussion - Intros => Topic started by: Dugeman on April 25, 2014, 09:34:22 AM
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What is available for interior window garnish moulding for a 32 chevy coupe? Thanks
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Dugeman
I'm also missing my garnish moldings for my doors, I'm building a two door coach and have been looking for a year for the ones I need. I have looked at several swap meets and watched EBay for them to come up for sale, There is two pcs. on there for sale now.
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I've been looking for a set for my 28 for over a year now.had a couple leads but they all went cold. The sad thing is that my steel 28 was complete,I even had the garnish mlgs chromed and they were beautiful.Then when I built the fiberglass car I (for some goofy reason) decided I would make maple ones to match the steering wheel. The chrome garnish mldgs ,along with a bunch of the other steel parts just" went away"and I never did make the maple ones and dont want too now! Ive decided to just bend up a set from 1/8" aluminum and polish them as a last resort.
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It's possible to make a plaster mold of the original and lay in fiberglass copies. I have done this with fiberglass trailer fenders.
Superior Glass Works makes them for the Ford:
http://www.superiorglassworks.com/Garnish-Moldings-2-chopped-1932-Ford-Vicky-p/f32g01.htm
Wonder if you could adapt them?
Ed
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It's possible to make a plaster mold of the original and lay in fiberglass copies. I have done this with fiberglass trailer fenders.
Superior Glass Works makes them for the Ford:
http://www.superiorglassworks.com/Garnish-Moldings-2-chopped-1932-Ford-Vicky-p/f32g01.htm
Wonder if you could adapt them?
Ed
That's a decent price for that Ford stuff. I bet if you can find someone with a set of originals it would be pretty easy to copy them. I'm speaking as a boatbuilder here, but duplicating parts in 'glass isn't difficult. Probably $30-$40 in materials would do it. Might be worth investigating.
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Have you tried calling these guys?
http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=16&ved=0CD4QFjAFOAo&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.20schevyparts.com%2Fcatalog.pdf&ei=t2NcU9vkL6iX2QWa1IHABA&usg=AFQjCNFivlR0ZYb2GcelAMdjN1nExND6zQ (http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=16&ved=0CD4QFjAFOAo&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.20schevyparts.com%2Fcatalog.pdf&ei=t2NcU9vkL6iX2QWa1IHABA&usg=AFQjCNFivlR0ZYb2GcelAMdjN1nExND6zQ)
Moose
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He sure has tons of stuff,but its a little pricy! $95 for a windshield crank handle!!??
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Thanks for all the input. I was thinking about making molds and then making them out of fiberglass. With the car chopped 3" I would have to modify stock ones anyhow. I was thinking of making them out of wood molding smoothed and worked to a proper fit , than transferring them to molds ,and when the molds set ,remove the wood and lay glass cloth in the molds . Does this sound right ?
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Yes, that's more or less right. But if you want that nice super smooth finish, then you will want to spray gelcoat into your mould first. Then you add the fabric after that. You can get gelcoat in a variety of colors...just get one close to your paint color to make life easier.
Don't forget to wax the inside of the mould so that the part will remove easily. I'm going to guess that would need to be done by hand as I doubt you could get any sort of machine polisher to do that. With such a relatively small part that's no big deal. The secret is to make sure you have 100% wax coverage first, before the gelcoat is either sprayed or brushed in place.
When doing a large part, say such as a fender, you typically will wax and polish the part 10 times. That isn't for the purpose of building up the film, but just to be certain that you have 100% coverage. Any area not wax covered will either tear the part or the mould. A machine polisher makes short work of this. Just a matter of using your good Chevy common sense.
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The only time we ever waxed molds was when we were building gel coat finished parts,which wasnt very often.. Almost everything we built was painted so we would spray molds with PVA release agent.Its transparent green and simply washes off with water,so its easy to finish parts.With wax it is a real pita to get it all cleaned off the part before you try to finish it. I used PVA exclusivly on both the molds and when building the parts for my glass '28.