Rusty Bowtie
General Category => General Discussion - Intros => Topic started by: Rattiac on August 09, 2022, 10:58:39 PM
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I found a th200r4 in a local ad. Says it's possibly rebuilt but not sure, so he's just asking $200 for core price. It's a 1984 and looks to have dual bolt pattern.
------ Should I ???
Anything to look for if I look at it ?
Been looking off/on for awhile, kinda rare here.
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Possible rebuilt but not sure
Sounds like it should be considered needing a rebuild. Maybe offer $150...pull the pan and look inside?
Info:
https://transmissioncenter.net/blog/200-4r-transmission-spotlight/
The last paragraph should be noted
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Well, I got it. 8)
I went over to a trans shop nearby my boss recommended, talked with him about it.
Turns out , It's a salesman's tyranny for a friend that backed out.
Gonna have this nearby guy see if it's actually been rebuilt.
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Good deal...Sounds like it has potential!
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$200 Isn't outrageous for a core. You are ahead at any rate for a really good tranny!
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The TH200 4R is a nice transmission. A benefit is that it fits directly where most TH 350s have been (same yoke, and same length save for maybe 1/4", if memory serves).
I've heard that some improvements were made in 1987, and that if you have a pre '87 one, you should use the lock up, and also, as with all of these, the throttle to tranny cable should be adjusted right.
I have done two tranny swaps like this, and both have had a push button (cruise control button on a non functional cc on my current car), to activate the lock up, then when the brake lights light up, the lock up disconnects automatically. You soon get accustomed to put it on, and it really lowers the revs nicely combined with the fourth gear over drive.
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Today me and my dad installed the transmission.
Took a minute to get it lined up with a new dowel pin, had to shave it slightly. Almost too thick.
Now that it's in. The trans mount is 7" back which I anticipated. The cars crossmember is really close to the pan. I won't be able to install the shift kit with this in the way. Can't drop the pan.
I asked the trans guy to install a shift kit, but he said wait until it's in the car. I shoulda pressed him on this. :(
So now I may have to cut out the existing crossmember and weld a new one farther back.
The dilemma is the pedals.
Could I cut the crossmember out but leave the part that supports the pedals ?
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After taking a good hard look at it. Seems plenty reinforced at the frame diagonal bracing forward of it.
Maybe some welds would help.
Brake proportioning valve may have to come up an inch or two to clear new x-member.
Snowball effect, gotta love it.
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Today me and my dad installed the transmission.
Took a minute to get it lined up with a new dowel pin, had to shave it slightly. Almost too thick.
Now that it's in. The trans mount is 7" back which I anticipated. The cars crossmember is really close to the pan. I won't be able to install the shift kit with this in the way. Can't drop the pan.
I asked the trans guy to install a shift kit, but he said wait until it's in the car. I shoulda pressed him on this. :(
So now I may have to cut out the existing crossmember and weld a new one farther back.
The dilemma is the pedals.
Could I cut the crossmember out but leave the part that supports the pedals ?
FYI Maybe just installing a Corvette Servo might help with the shifts. I installed that 200 4R I got from Chopper recently in my 34 coupe and it goes through the gears so smoothly that I often manually downshift into 3rd to be sure I'm overdrive! I put a Corvette servo in my son's 37 Chevy with 4L60E (1995 PWM) and I can feel the shift lockups. The PWM (post width module) tannies were designed to shift smoothly after some seniors complained that they didn't like the firm shifts.
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I gotta plan. Ordered a 5" drop crossmember, similar to stock. Should be torching and welding in a week or two.