Rusty Bowtie

Miscellaneous => Members Builds - Stocker -Streetrod - Ratrod - LowRider => Topic started by: Essex_29 on August 06, 2022, 10:57:09 AM

Title: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: Essex_29 on August 06, 2022, 10:57:09 AM
I'm part way into a hot rod build, and thought I'd share some of what I'm working with. I don't know how to cathegorize my build, it's part hot rod, part rat rod, mainly I focus on having fun.
Some background:
In the fall of 2019 I bought the Marquette by Buick and got it home. Before this I had bought a junkyard V12 from an older BMW 750. I chose a Buick because they had large eight cylinder engines in 1931. The Buick was sold to me as a 1931 Buick, and when I arrived at home, I was very sad to notice that I had indeed not bought a 1931 Buick, but rather a 1930 Marquette. The difference may be a problem in the future when it's time to get it MOT tested and street legal. I decided to roll with it, and now am used to caling it "the Buick". I do like the proportions and looks of the car in any case, and it's a two door sedan, which is exactly what I wanted.
An abundance of chores took me to December 2019 before getting the old lady rolled into the garage, the first picture is from that day.
Second pic is a photoshopped pic from that time showing what I'm aiming for: A fully fendered  hot rod with wideish radials and it's supposed to be a pretty practical driver.
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: Essex_29 on August 06, 2022, 11:20:25 AM
The V12 engine in its original guise is not a good looking one, seen from a hot rodder's perspective. Most of what could be removed was, and I was left with a narrow high engine. And it was going to be carbureted.
(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick111.jpg)
The frame here bolted to the floor, making like a make shift frame jig.

The intake

To make the intake I needed some flanges done.
As I panned to get them laser cut, I needed drawings, and downloaded free cad, watched some tutorials and got busy drawing parts.
Of course it took me a couple weeks to learn by doing, and here's a look at what I got done:
(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick141_1.jpg)
1. Upper intake flange ( with a bunch of 2" exhaust flanges to save material).
2. Top intake flange with holes for two four barrel carbs ( bolts to the #1 flange)
3. Drawing for the number 2 part
4. Four barrel carb flanges. These will be spaced up about an inch off the top intake.
5. 2" exhaust flange
6. 2-1/2" exhaust flange.
7. Intake to cylinder head flange.

A few days after sending the drawings to the laser cutting company, I got a text telling me to come get my cut parts.
I was pretty excited to see the parts that I had drawn.
(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick141_2.jpg)
Just a matter of filling in the blanks spaces between the flanges with sheet metal and tubing to make an intake now.

This is modern times already. Work started on the intake July 15, so it's less than a month ago.

Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: Essex_29 on August 06, 2022, 11:31:37 AM
I started working in the intake runners a couple days ago, cutting sort pieces with a supposed 13 degree angle, then a 37 degree angle of a pipe bend. Of course doing this cutting free hand with a simple jig, the angles were more or less off, all of them.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick141a.jpg)

A. I ended up cutting and adjusting, then tacking a piece and a bend. 6 pieces were an average length, the six others were off, either shorter or longer, and got dedicaed third parts to compensate.

B. Then they were welded to make 12 equal length runners. 36 pieces of tubing, bad engineeering, I should have them from two, instead of three pieces, but there you go.

C. All 24 welds were ground off, and the insides were smoothed with a small grinder with a rotating file.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick141b.jpg)

I had to check for clearance for the intake bolts under the plenum floor. This will be enough, but the intake will be very tall.
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: Essex_29 on August 06, 2022, 11:40:01 AM
I took the intake flanges off the engine to tack the intake runners to the flanges.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick141c.jpg)

The intake flanges are tacked together with sheet metal pieces to keep their relative angle when off the engine.

When eight runners were tacked to the intake flanges, the whole thing was bolted back to the engine. Simple intake by the way, no water and no exhaust in it.
After some measuring and planning, a plywood template was cut with a hole saw to cut holes for the intake runners in the plenum floor piece with the plasma.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick142.jpg)

The plenum is designed short, so the outermost runners will turn into the ends of the plenum by using tube bends cut to fit to the plenum end pieces. Form over function perhaps, but I think it will work decently too.
The holes in the plenum floor will be ground to fit loosely around the runnes, and the conjunctions will be ground round and smooth to promote air flow over the awkward angles.
Hoping to be able to weld this, without warping the flanges too much.

I recently got an Edelbrock 500cfm 1404 in the mail so now I just have to find another one.

Turned out the flanges warped a bit. Heating them from the back side with the tig got them straightened out nicely.
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: Rattiac on August 06, 2022, 12:18:48 PM
Cool build.  👍
Keep us posted.  I would love to be able to cut my own parts. 😎
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: EDNY on August 06, 2022, 12:41:10 PM
Good for you...a lot more than I would ever tackle!
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: Essex_29 on August 06, 2022, 04:19:44 PM
 Thank you Rattiac, I'd love to be able to cut parts with some kind of precision myself. The plasma with thin plywood templates work nicely if exact precision is not all that important.  The laser cut parts were awesome, I could thread the cut holes, they were very exactly cut.
 Haha, EDNY, you can probably guess how it goes: I get an idea and think "that's doable". Then I work on it like crazy, feeling dumb for not realizing how much work it really is. Me and my project are like the Dunning-Kruger effect in person.

Anyway.
After getting the intake runners welded to the intake to cylinderhead flanges, it was time for some serious grinding. I'm better at grinding than welding, so this makes the whole thing look decent in a new way.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick143b.jpg)

Bolted back to the cylinderheads, the runners were welded to the plenum floor and more grinding to do.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick143c.jpg)

To avoid getting a bunch of debris down the intake runnes and weld spatter onto the valves, I made intake "gaskets" from 19 gauge sheet metal, with no holes but for the bolts. Also I filled the intake ports with tee shirt fabric.
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: sixball on August 07, 2022, 10:42:50 AM
This is interesting stuff. I'm looking forward to more.
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: Essex_29 on August 09, 2022, 04:46:02 AM
Nice to hear, sixball, here's some more:

Parts for the plenum were cut to exact sizes and tacked together to form a box.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick143a.jpg)
The end plates wre cut to mate with the outermost intake runners.

The top of the plenum consists of a frame that is about 3/4" wide all around the outer edges and that has 30+ holes tapped with M6 threads, and a top part with corresponding holes for the 30+ M6 bolts. Everything was welded together to form a box like shape.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick143d.jpg)

Again a lot of grinding to make the entrances to the intake runners smooth along the outer edges, and of course the bendy end pipes.

Finally the whole thing was given a thorough sanding on the outside.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick143e.jpg)

Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: Essex_29 on August 09, 2022, 05:00:30 AM
Finally a kind of "collars" were welded to the top of the plenum, for the carburetor flanges to sit on.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick143f.jpg)

One of the reasons for the bolt on intake top is to gain access to grinding welds on the inside. Also, if it works otherwise, I can easily make another version for, say three 2Gs, or even injection.

Intake on the engine, carbs on the intake.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick145.jpg)

The whole thing looks pretty nince already, two fours is always a good look. The carbs will be two 500 cfm Edelbrocks, and I know it's probably way too much, but I just have to hope that I will be able get the engine to run somewhat decent.
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: sixball on August 09, 2022, 01:04:06 PM
Good work. The Edelbrock carbs are highly adjustable even beyond the jetting & rod combos listed in the book.   
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: TFoch on August 09, 2022, 03:23:55 PM
Very cool build Essex_29!  Nice fab work!
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: Essex_29 on August 09, 2022, 04:38:05 PM
Thank you for the kind words, TFoch and sixball! And yes, I like the Edelbrock carbs and they way they adjust. I had a 700 cfm Edelbrock on a 455 Olds some time ago, and I got that one to run very nicely after changing jets and rods, and getting the springs right. I've also worked on twin Weber DCOEs, they are almost infinitely adjustable, and with the help of the 1977 Weber book and a wideband lambda, I got the engine (Ford Cortina GT historic racing car) to run just perfect. Carbs can be fun, especially if one has the time and energy to work methodically with them.

So, next on the agenda would have been the ignitionsystem(s) on the V12. Yes, they're actually two separate ignition systems. As from factory, the BMW V12 had two totally separate Motronic ECUs running totally separate ignition and fuel injection systems for each of the two cylinder banks.
My plan originally, was to do this:

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick146e.jpg)

I meant to cut two Ford Cologne V6 distributors, and drive them off the camshafts. In theory I tried all kinds of ideas, until I got very frustrated with the packaging issue I ran into how ever I tried to make the distributors short and compact. The end result would inevitable result in my moving the engine back a few inches, and that in turn would force me to rework the firewall... OR to cut the frame and lengthen it.
About a week ago, I decided to back down from one of my principles, and throw out the mechanical distributor idea, and go with an aftermarket ECU to take care of the ignition advance and timing, two coils to send spark to the stock "dumb" distributors.
 This will result in a bit of a dilemma, in other words, me having something in my car that I can't fix on the side of the road in the middle of nowhere if disaster would strike. On the other hand it may well work for many years without service...
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: EDNY on August 10, 2022, 09:06:10 AM
There is a lot of info online discussing distributorless ignition systems (homemade and commercial).  One system that you might consider is the OBD1 GM Tune Port Injection since they are "bank firing" versus the more complicated (OBD2) sequential firing system.  You would need to determine whether to use speed density or MAF.

This would only take care of the fuel injector portion and being bank firing it would inject fuel on the entire left and/or right banks at one time....you can wire in as many injectors on one bank as needed.

Now the ignition portion needs to be addressed. I can burn any TPI chips you need.

Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: sixball on August 10, 2022, 12:16:46 PM
You may find some answers at DIYAUTOTUNE. It is a world of it's own and can be over whelming. I haven't used the site in years and if looks different but I'm sure the info is still there. There was a very extensive forum component filled with posts from users. I would bet that someone has put a MSII on one of these engines, They can run injection & ignition. I built one several years ago and if I can do it anyone can. There is so much out there now I'm sure you can figure this out.

https://www.diyautotune.com/shop/megasquirt-kits-components/ (https://www.diyautotune.com/shop/megasquirt-kits-components/)
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: EDNY on August 10, 2022, 04:29:20 PM
Just throwing this option out if running carbs or EFI:

1993 Porsche 911 964 Bosch Twin Plug Dual Distributor 0237503004

Ebay Link: 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/134103428791?var=0&mkevt=1&mkcid=1&mkrid=711-53200-19255-0&campid=5338590836&toolid=10044&customid=296f69d68772198d84980b229595b299

Connected via belt inside
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: sixball on August 10, 2022, 09:54:31 PM
Too Cool! I'll stick with one six, that's enough for me!  ;D
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: Essex_29 on August 11, 2022, 05:32:12 PM
Thank you for all the suggestions! EDNY and sixball!
That double Porsche distributor on ebay is probably the coolest/craziest  thing I've ever seen! Talk about over engineered!

Anyway, I've decided to go with MaXXECU. It's made in Sweden and there's a local guy here, who sells them and he has a very good reputation. He's going to make me an ignition map so I can get started. and also to make the right connectors for my simple ignition system.. So, in case that really works out, it's a lot different than starting to work on a Speeduino or Megasquirt with all the forum talk and learning by doing.
The MaxxECU will drive two coils and send the spark through the two stock distributors that are mounted to the front of the cylinder heads, and are driven off the cam shafts. The engine also has a 60-2 wheel on the crank, so the only ignition-thing not stock will be the ECU.

So, to more practical things:
Engine and transmission mounts.
I cut a bunch of parts from steel plate, a bit over 3/16" thick with the plasma, and then let them soak in weak acid over night. When sanded they looked this nice.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick147.jpg)

I forgot to take pics when making the engine mounts. They're more than half way inside the frame anyway, I might post pics of them when I get the engine out of the way.
The big plate bolts to the rear of the transmission and looks like this when welded and ready.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick147a.jpg)

The transmission is a heavy duty six speed ZF 56DZ, which is heavy for a manual transmission, but the mount is still probably overkill.
The whole thing bolts to the rear of the transmission housing like this.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick147b.jpg)

Just as I was going to weld the chassis mounts to the K-member, I happened to get that they have to be removeble, otherwise the transmission won't come out downwards when the body is on the frame. So bolt on mounts had to be made.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick147c.jpg)

Here's what it looks like  right now. Both sides are ready to weld. I hope to get this done tomorrow. The rubber mounts are Volvo 740 transmission mounts. Cheap and easy to get here. One takes what one gots.
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: TFoch on August 11, 2022, 08:39:53 PM
Nice work Essex_29!
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: nunattax on August 14, 2022, 04:24:09 AM
keep up the good work v12,enjoying the build.
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: chopper526 on August 15, 2022, 09:12:16 AM
That is some nice work there. Great job Essex_29
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: sixball on August 15, 2022, 12:00:35 PM
Great work. Thanks for the tip on the Volvo mounts too.
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: Essex_29 on August 15, 2022, 02:41:02 PM
THank you all for the kind words! Volvo engine mounts are a bit bigger, but they have M12 size threads, and my engine mounts just had 10 mm holes, so I went with the smaller transmission mounts.
M10 is similar in size to 3/8"unc, M12 is almost 1/2".

Anyway, The transmission mounts were welded yesterday, so they're done. This is what they look like, welded and gusseted:

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick147d.jpg)

The engine and transmission were hoisted out of the frame to gain access to finish the engine mounts. I saw my welds for the first time now. not pretty. I welded those little tacks with a mirror. Obviously not my thing...

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick148b.jpg)

When the engine  mount is welded to the inside of the frame, it will be framed with box plate and this round plate. Forming 1/8" thick sheet metal takes some hammering.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick148a.jpg)

The stock engine mounts on this engine look pretty nice, so I elected to use them, even as they force me to make the frame mounts partly inside the frame. I think the frame will be plenty strong here anyway. The engine mounts are big enough for Volvo Engine mounts, if I just drill out the holes, as a precaution, if the smaller mounts start to give.







Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: Essex_29 on August 20, 2022, 06:31:02 PM
Finally today I got something done. I've been working on making parts and bits for the engine mounts
 for a few days. some days aren't efficient, for example when you get a visitor. It's fun when it happens,
 but the efficiency suffers.
Anyway, the box plates are done, the right hand side one is tacked and the driver's side one is fully welded.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick148c.jpg)

The box plate got a lightening hole and a 1/4"-20 thread for a brake line. The angled joint on the box plate
 stems from my model airplane building days. An angled joint is stronger than a straight off one.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick148d.jpg)

I think I'll grind off the vertical welds around the engine mounts. The welds will be plenty strong enough anyway
 everything is welded thoroughly, also the inner parts that aren't visible anymore. Especially those welds done
 in a mirror in my plast post.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick148e.jpg)

Still some work with tidying up the underside of the frame here at the engine mount. The bocx plates
 would look much tidier if I grind those welds down smooth.

The frame is bolted to the floor, using it as a make shift chassis jig. After the right hand side box plate
and engine mount is all welded, I will unbolt the frame from the floor, turn it over and finish weld everything.
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: sixball on August 20, 2022, 11:49:16 PM
It looks good. Glad to see someone making progress.
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: nunattax on August 21, 2022, 06:39:06 AM
hey bjorn you have been busy welding looks great.hello from ireland
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: TFoch on August 21, 2022, 03:26:28 PM
Nice work!
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: Essex_29 on August 21, 2022, 03:28:09 PM
Thank you sixball, I'm working on keeping some momentum. It's hard to get the ball rolling again, once
 it stopped. I had a one year break when building my last rod, and it took me several attempts to get up to
speed again.

Nice, Chris, to have you on board  :) Hope you check in now and then. At least I haven't figured out how to
 get update notifications by email yet.

Thankyou for your positive support TFoch!

So, as I mentioined in my last post, I ground down the vertical welds at the engine mounts, and that made
things look much tidier.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick148f.jpg)

I squirted on some semi gloss black just because. I don't know what to do with the box plate welds, they'll
be visible her in the engine bay area. Hmm, should I  grind them smooth? They're not good looking  so
we'll see if I feel like tidying them up some.

I cut a couple slices off the sides to get the radiatorshell to sit lower, where it belongs. The original front crossmember was about 5/8"
lower and almost two inches wider, hence the cutting.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick148g.jpg)
Looks great now that the engine and transmission hangs in their own proper mounts, no wood on the
floor to prop it all up, like there has been since December... for nine months. How time flies.

Oh, and don't mind the funny carbs. I do a lot of plasma cutting and other dirty work and I don't want to have decent carbs get all clogged up.

Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: TFoch on August 21, 2022, 03:31:37 PM
Big accomplishment to get the engine sitting in the frame on it's mounts!  Keep a it!
Tom
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: chopper526 on August 26, 2022, 04:48:37 PM
That looks great! You are a welding machine.
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: 62131 on August 26, 2022, 07:02:43 PM
My thoughts on grinding welds, penetration is the key to strength, if you beveled the edges {if thick enough} of the two pieces that you welded together grinding should be fine. If not, I would not grind. To dress them up before paint smear a coat of seam sealer over them to give them a smooth appearance.
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: Essex_29 on August 28, 2022, 03:25:59 PM
Thank you TFoch for the encouragement, and chopper526, I do love my welder *grins*.
Yes, 62131, I do try to make good welds, and always bevel the edges to get as good penetration
as I possibly can. I decided to grind the welds around the engine mounts for esthetical reasons, and I
don't doubt they'll be strong enough anyway. The engine mount "stands" on two gussets against the
bottom frame flange, and the box plate is just that. I think it will be strong enough, and I'm pretty
certain that the engine won't fall out.

Since I live far north and summers are short, I had planned to go hunting for a roof, and this
was as good a time as any. After measuring the crown and size of several wagon roofs, I decided that
a Volvo V70 roof has about the right amount of crown to it.

So, out with a bunch of extention cords and the 9" angle grinder and off we go. The rear hatch was
gone, and I was allowed to smash the rear side windows, so it was easy work. The Volvo side curtain
air bags are inside the roof, so I didn't even go close to them with the cut off wheel.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick149f.jpg)

The Volvo has a Saab 96 hood on it, which gives it all an odd look.
When at home, still in the trailer, the flat part of the roof was cut out, leaving just the
frame to keep its shape.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick149e.jpg)





Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: Essex_29 on August 28, 2022, 03:35:17 PM
I was a bit concerned that the roof would be too bulbuous, but it ended up being
about exactly what I was looking for.
The Volvo V70 is a bit rounder in the front, so the roof is now sitting backwards,
as this works very well.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick149a.jpg)

Only in the rearmost corners, can you see a bit of daylight from the inside. You can
probably see that the corners don't lay exactly flat in the pic below.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick149b.jpg)

The new roof is about 2-1/2" too wide, and I beleive, as I cut it down, that the corners will lay down pretty much perfect.
It looks great so far, I just hope I won't mess it up, I have never welded a roof before.
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: sixball on August 28, 2022, 07:03:29 PM
That is really cool how close it is to perfect! Good choice.
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: FATnLOW on August 28, 2022, 07:20:16 PM
Go slow on the welding and go to different spots when welding..keep heat to minimum .... I took 2.5 days to weld mine in..paid off in the end.. Happy welding😁😁
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: TFoch on August 28, 2022, 08:06:19 PM
Lookin' good!  That was a good choice to fill the top.
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: 62131 on August 29, 2022, 05:54:36 AM
Thats a great fitting top. take your time and stagger your spot welds keep heat to a minimum
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: chopper526 on August 29, 2022, 05:38:35 PM
That roof looks as good as you could get! Nice work.
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: sammons on August 31, 2022, 10:16:53 PM
Essex, nice fab work!  I like that your building what you want/need and using what is availible in your area. Always liked those early sedans. That eara seemed close to the same, regaurdless of make other than minor body details and grill shell.

Again, nice fab work. Top fits nice too.
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: Essex_29 on September 02, 2022, 05:43:23 PM
Thank you all for your supporting comments, they keep my mood up for sure :)
62131, Yes, it will be about 238.5 inches of weld, so staggering won't be an issue.
FATnLOW welding will be days. I've counted 12 seconds per weld with cooling,
so that would be over five hours continuous welding. Scary thought.
Yes sammons, you got to take what you have. Around here junked American cars
are very unusual, so a Volvo roof makes sense. Also, about the latetwenties cars looking
the same all of them, but I have to say, the Buick is huge compared to a Model A Tudor.

The frame is all but ready, so next the body is going back on.
After some measuring and cutting the body bracing, The body could be hoisted onto the
 frame.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick150d.jpg)

 Engine hoist and a helping hand from the wife did the trick, so there it is.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick150.jpg)

Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: sixball on September 02, 2022, 07:49:15 PM
Great progress! Thanks for sharing.
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: TFoch on September 02, 2022, 08:29:10 PM
Wow that looks great!  Nice to have the wife lend a helping hand!
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: 62131 on September 02, 2022, 09:23:00 PM
Wow that really looks great
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: FATnLOW on September 03, 2022, 11:02:47 PM
If you don't have 4 or 5 guys to help with the body ..you have to think out of the box...I remember using my hoist to mount several bodies '38 Chevy ,'28 model A and '40 Ford P/U....good looking work and ur project is moving along nicely
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: sixball on September 04, 2022, 10:22:13 AM
Doing things alone is often hard & dangerous. Last week I had to take a poorly chopped '50 pickup cab from a frame a guy from Washington is coming to get for a project. I was able to wrap/pad the pallet forks on my tractor bucket and go through the missing back window to lift & move it to a pallet. Still kind of dicey on my hillside when you get any weight very far off the ground. I damage must be done I always try to sacrifice the parts & safe myself. It's 2 miles to where the ambulance could get.  :o

That big sedan in looking good!
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: Essex_29 on September 06, 2022, 12:33:43 PM
Thank you all once again! Yes, TFoch, it's always nice to get the wife involved.
In my experience she'll care more about the car later  :)
You're right, FATnLOW. The last time I built a hot rod, I had a bunch of
18-20 year olds who came to help me when I needed it. It has its perks to drive a school bus.
Oooff... Wow, sixball, better play it safe in your case! and yes, it's always better to
sacrifice some car parts and save one's own bodyparts!

When the body sat on the frame I noticed that the engine now sits quite a bit farther
back than I had originally planned. This is because the steering took up way more estate than
I had figured.

When viewed from the side, the problem is obvious. The aesthetical balance is way off, as the
engine sits so far from the grille shell and all the way into the fire wall.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick150a.jpg)

On closer inspection, the problem seems pretty minor, but it gets worse. The body needs to
get moved forward another 1-1/2".

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick150b.jpg)

So now I decided to remove the whole firewall. It features a pretty big bead, that makes the
whole firewall protrude about an extra inch. I figure, if I turn the firewall backwards, I'll gain
two inches of space. To add to that, I'm going to move the firewall back another 5/8", filling
it out with some 5/8" U-profile.

Now the task at hand is to get the firewall out of the cowl.
Someone in Flint, Michigan, has seemingly liked the spotwelder a lot. So lots of drilling and
chiselling still ahead.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick150c.jpg)

Some of the bad optical balance will be there still, but it will look better if the engine seems to at least fit properly. And the Grille shell will look thicker with a radiator, maybe a shroud and a fan too. Might be acceptable in the end
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: sixball on September 06, 2022, 08:10:34 PM
Will you run a hood? Is the length stock from the cowl to the radiator shell?
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: sammons on September 06, 2022, 10:27:07 PM
Essex, your body balance seems fine to me. But...I like an engine setback for a better balance in weight and a long nose. You do need more firewall clearence to the engine. Your on the right track with firewall only setback.

I really got creative on my firewall on my coupe. Was going for a 50/50 bias on weight, so pushed motor back and modified firewall to fit my needs. Made sure i could get to all the bolts easy and room to put a monster motor if i chose to in the future.  I try to think ahead for other mods i might want later, I'm weird that way. 😁

Great work you got going on there!

My goofy firewall.
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: Essex_29 on September 09, 2022, 04:48:09 PM
Yes, sixball, I might run a hood top, no sides, as I plan on making the exhaust primaries go over
and outside the frame. The air cleaners probably won't fit under the hood, so there's a good chance I'll
never run a hood anyway. The hood length is supposed to be stock, but I haven't actually checked lately
how close I am.
Because the frame is bent up about 15" behind the firewall, the body sits almost 1/2" too high in the front.
This will be fixed as soon as the firewall gets welded back in and everything gets adjusted properly.

sammons, your firewall looks good to me. Nice bodywork and a uniform color does wonders too.
I'm not a fan of new, homemade simple firewalls with a couple bead rolls, that's why I desperately want
to use the stock firewall hoping it won't look too obviously altered and customized.
On my Essex I got 60% weight on the rear wheels. The little Rover3500/Buick215 aluminum engine and
Borg-Warner T35 transmission helped doing that. No way to do a burn out with that one, as the car just
wouldn't stay still when the brakes were applied, it just slid away with the front tires skidding. That little
engine was so underwhelming in the power department, though. Luckily it had a nice soundtrack, almost
like a nail head.
Building a (especially a non Ford) hot rod makes one plan a head anyway. and sometimes I too plan for
mods I might do in the future. Don't worry, we're probably all weird in all kinds of ways :)

Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: Essex_29 on September 10, 2022, 05:42:18 PM
After a lot of drilling, and a bit of work with both the air chisel and he manual one, the
firewall was out.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick151.jpg)

The ignition coil is a Mallory one. I assume it's stock and original to this car, at least it looks old. Mallory
sounds like speed parts to me, though.
Probably not a bad idea to have the coli inside the car. I think coils are a technical part that look good
showing in the engine bay, so I'll probably mount mine on the outide of the firewall or on the intake

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick151a.jpg)

Now I got to move the body forward to where it will sit. As I was afraid, just flipping the
firewall is not enough. A 13/16" U-profile between the front of the cowl and the firewall
will do the trick.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick151c.jpg)

This is how the firewall looked before cutting it out. The black mark on the right side shows
how I plan to reshape the recessed "panel" which of course will be proud of the firewall
when it is flipped. This shape will leave more room at the valve cover and cylinder head.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick151b.jpg)

Here's a pic of the first try at making a new corner for the protruding panel. three more corners to go.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick151d.jpg)
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: chopper526 on September 11, 2022, 09:12:44 PM
That's some nice work there, and well worth the time and trouble.
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: TFoch on September 11, 2022, 09:44:22 PM
Nice progress!
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: Essex_29 on September 13, 2022, 04:02:18 AM
Thank youTFoch and chopper526. Yes, it's worth a bit of work to get the firewall to look
decent. It's going to show on a hoodless car, so a it's pretty important part of the overall look.

I continued with the second corner, to the left in the pic below, and then the straight part. It's
a bit of a jigsaw, but making a big panel and getting all the angles to match...

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick151e.jpg)

It's fun to work with thick sheetmetal, you can grind it till it look good. 14 and 16 ga sheet
 metal here.
With the firewall in place the angle matches the cylinder head reasonably well. The only problem
now is there's not enough room between the firewall and the cylinderhead yet. Still zero space.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick151g.jpg)

Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: chopper526 on September 14, 2022, 08:30:52 PM
How about using square 1/2 tubing between the firewall and the body? It would push the firewall back 1/2" and give a 1/2" lip all the way around. You biggest problem would be getting the square tube to make the radius. the worst you would need to do is pie cut the corners.
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: Essex_29 on September 17, 2022, 05:47:47 PM
That's almost what I meant chopper526,The U-profile I was talking about is like a
square tubing without one side. After some measuring and trying, though, I decided to
move the firewall an inch backward to get enough clearance between it and the cylinderheads.

The firewall looks much better now, and it still looks factory.

(https://grillo.fi/desoto/buick151f.jpg)

There's still a bunch of holes to fill, but I got ahead of myself, and started working on the
spacer. I cut some 1" tubing in half and started bending and working what now in effect is
a U-profile.

(https://grillo.fi/desoto/buick151h.jpg)

As the corners can't be bent just like that, I cut away part of the "side wall" of the U and
filled in with some sheetmetal. I left it a bit over size, to get good welds in the corners.
The firewall will be  rosette welded in using the 1/4" holes that were drilled through the
spot welds to get it out in the first place.
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: sixball on September 17, 2022, 06:46:42 PM
That looks good. You do good work.
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: chopper526 on September 18, 2022, 01:53:16 PM
That's almost what I meant chopper526,The U-profile I was talking about is like a
square tubing without one side. After some measuring and trying, though, I decided to
move the firewall an inch backward to get enough clearance between it and the cylinderheads.

The firewall looks much better now, and it still looks factory.

(https://grillo.fi/desoto/buick151f.jpg)

There's still a bunch of holes to fill, but I got ahead of myself, and started working on the
spacer. I cut some 1" tubing in half and started bending and working what now in effect is
a U-profile.

(https://grillo.fi/desoto/buick151h.jpg)

As the corners can't be bent just like that, I cut away part of the "side wall" of the U and
filled in with some sheetmetal. I left it a bit over size, to get good welds in the corners.
The firewall will be  rosette welded in using the 1/4" holes that were drilled through the
spot welds to get it out in the first place.

I gotcha. That looks real good. It's gonna be nice.
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: Essex_29 on September 18, 2022, 03:00:44 PM
Actually, chopper526, I had to scrap that square tube I cut in half. It's too
narrow, so I decided to make a new version, and this time I made it out of the
whole tube. I have a home made tube roller, so I can bend tubing slightly. I have
all three parts (top and sides) bent and ready, and think I might be able to
salvage the corner bends from the spacer that I already made.

Oh, the reason for it being too narrow, is because a lot of the holes from drilling
out the spot welds get beside the spacer thingy entirely, and in that case I wouldn't
be able to weld the rosette welds as planned. One step forward, and one step back....
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: Essex_29 on September 22, 2022, 03:54:55 AM
A bit of a busy period, so not much time to spend in the garage.
The tubes I decided to make the spacer out of are bent and ready
to go, and last night I got the first corner bend fitted with just a
couple tacks.
Looks like this might work, so I'll continue with the other bend as
soon as I can.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick151i.jpg)

The simple tubing bender I have has been of so much use on this
project. I would strongly recommend buidling one, before tackling
a wood removel project like this one. Maybe I should post a pic of
it some day.

Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: chopper526 on September 22, 2022, 09:48:30 AM
That is going to work perfectly! When I did my '32 I didn't have a tubing bender, it was a series of pie cuts and welds. Time consuming but it worked.
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: sixball on September 22, 2022, 11:34:10 AM
Looks good, I wish I had skills.
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: 62131 on September 22, 2022, 09:38:13 PM
The bent tubing looks great
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: Essex_29 on September 24, 2022, 06:49:42 PM
Thank you all, chopper526, sixball and 62131. I'm pleased with the result so far, other than it's
taking way too long to get done!
The bent tube you may be referring to, is the corner piece. It is built from three pieces of sheetmetal, sorry
about the confusion. The bent tubes that I have rolled, and talked about in my last post, are the ones that
are almost straight, going along the top and the sides of the cowl.  The tube roller has been surprisingly
useful doing just that; bending tubes to a slight curve, so that they fit exactly along the roof line and whatnot.

I finally got the firewall welded and ground today. "Finally"... I have to decide what to do with the bootom edge
still, so it's not exactly done yet.
The radiator stay mounts are turned back and welded in now too, and all holes filled.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick151k.jpg)

This is what it looks like when I rosette weld the spot wolds with mig. The holes are 1/4" and the mig is turned
up pretty high, to get nice penetrating welds that are fairly flat.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick151j.jpg)

After grinding the spotwelds the new spacer and the front edge of the cowl got a coat of red primer.
The firewall is just stood inside the cowl in this pic. It's a bit low, but otherwise in about the right place.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick151l.jpg)

Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: chopper526 on September 24, 2022, 09:06:54 PM
That looks great, just the way I would have done it......just not as good. ;D
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: 62131 on September 25, 2022, 08:19:46 AM
That turned out really good, looks great
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: TFoch on September 25, 2022, 09:52:41 AM
Looks awesome!  Nice work!
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: sixball on September 25, 2022, 10:35:27 AM
This is quality & attention to detail the will be missed by most people who see it. Thanks for showing us how you are doing it. As for time, My roadster project is probably 30 years old and I have far less to show.  :(
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: Essex_29 on September 26, 2022, 04:08:20 PM
Sorry chopper526, that I'm not up to your standards, but I do my best, I promise  ;D
Thank you for the kind words, 62131, TFoch and sixball. Comments are much appreciated.

Finally (again?) got the firewall done! I'm not certain about how the bottom edge needs to be done, because
I don't know how to route the hoses and tubes to the heater, but I decided to do things this  way, and if
needed I'll make the necessary modifications later. One can't leave everything half-assed and almost-ready.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick151m.jpg)

So now I have someting to weld to the cowl, and to start building my floor and transmission tunnel off.
The little impression or stamping  a bit off center just above where the top of the transmission tunnel
will be, is for the heater return hose, behind the intake. Like this:

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick151n.jpg)

Room for a hose clamp and all now.
The stamped sheet metal is from an earlier experiment, when I made a peak for the sun visor. The
"tooling" is made from 5mm sheet metal, a tad more than 3/16" thick.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick095.jpg)

The stamped part was cut in half and the halves were welded together. Fun to find use for a part
that wasn't used.
Here's the peak I made for the visor. Quite a segway, sorry about that, it just happened.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick104.jpg)



Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: chopper526 on September 26, 2022, 06:37:36 PM
Sorry chopper526, that I'm not up to your standards, but I do my best, I promise  ;D
Thank you for the kind words, 62131, TFoch and sixball. Comments are much appreciated.

Finally (again?) got the firewall done! I'm not certain about how the bottom edge needs to be done, because
I don't know how to route the hoses and tubes to the heater, but I decided to do things this  way, and if
needed I'll make the necessary modifications later. One can't leave everything half-assed and almost-ready.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick151m.jpg)

So now I have someting to weld to the cowl, and to start building my floor and transmission tunnel off.
The little impression or stamping  a bit off center just above where the top of the transmission tunnel
will be, is for the heater return hose, behind the intake. Like this:

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick151n.jpg)

Room for a hose clamp and all now.
The stamped sheet metal is from an earlier experiment, when I made a peak for the sun visor. The
"tooling" is made from 5mm sheet metal, a tad more than 3/16" thick.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick095.jpg)


The stamped part was cut in half and the halves were welded together. Fun to find use for a part
that wasn't used.
Here's the peak I made for the visor. Quite a segway, sorry about that, it just happened.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick104.jpg)

Haha, you read that wrong, Essex_29. I was saying I would have done it the same way as you did, I just wouldn't have done as good a job as you did!! By the way, that visor turned out sweet.
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: sixball on September 26, 2022, 09:55:06 PM
Very nice work!
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: 62131 on September 26, 2022, 09:56:54 PM
Visor turned out great, nice work
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: TFoch on September 27, 2022, 06:34:52 AM
Love the visor!
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: Essex_29 on September 29, 2022, 02:53:14 AM
Thank you all for the positive comments!
Fun thing with the visor: Inside a week of my getting it done, a friend sent a pic of a 1929 Oldsmobile for sale, and asked if I was interested. It had a very similar shape in the center. I thought I had a totally original idea.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/oldsV.jpg)


(Sorry for steaing this pic off the net)

Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: Essex_29 on September 29, 2022, 03:13:30 AM
Finally! (for the third time) the firewall is done.

Since the frame is bent up a foot or so behid the firewall (to make the front suspension work good at my planned ride height), I had to cut some off the bottom edge of the firewall so it won't touch the frame. Then a squirt of primer to keep it from rusting.
Hoping to have time to weld it in still today. It will be welded with rosette welds to the back side of the 1" spacer tube.
Nothing short of amazing what some paint can do.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick151o.jpg)

I think I will have the firewall done a 4th time today. Maybe.
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: 62131 on September 29, 2022, 06:34:10 AM
Not to be disrespectful in any way, but that crescent was used a lot, Chevrolet used it on the 32 fenders
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: chopper526 on September 29, 2022, 01:59:25 PM
Finally! (for the third time) the firewall is done.

Since the frame is bent up a foot or so behid the firewall (to make the front suspension work good at my planned ride height), I had to cut some off the bottom edge of the firewall so it won't touch the frame. Then a squirt of primer to keep it from rusting.
Hoping to have time to weld it in still today. It will be welded with rosette welds to the back side of the 1" spacer tube.
Nothing short of amazing what some paint can do.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick151o.jpg)

I think I will have the firewall done a 4th time today. Maybe.

I think that looks real nice, and yes you are right, what a little paint can do. Great job!
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: sammons on September 29, 2022, 05:20:20 PM
Looking good!
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: Essex_29 on October 01, 2022, 06:59:41 AM
Thank yuou chopper526 and sammons!
No disrespectfuless percieved, 62131. I have seen those shapes on fenders
and such, but never happened to see it on a visor. And to be frank, I never connected
the two designs as they are on different parts of the body, and alos turned the other
way around. Nevermind that, it's just that when one thinks of a nice original design
idea, it then suddenly may become obvious that it's not a first.

I wanted to be a car designer when I was a kid, realizing early that it's not even a thing
here in Finland. Building a rod gives me opportunity to at least make alterations to the
look of the car. Only details and real small things on the body itself, but I am planning
on going wild with the dash for an example. But then again, that depends on how
much (if any) energy is left when that time comes.

The firewall is finally welded to the cowl, so one thing ticked off the 2 do-list
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: sixball on October 01, 2022, 11:31:54 AM
It has all been thought of. If it was a good idea it was used.  :o Your is a good one. Being different just to be different is usually not a good idea.  ;D
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: chopper526 on October 01, 2022, 11:41:11 AM
Thank yuou chopper526 and sammons!
No disrespectfuless percieved, 62131. I have seen those shapes on fenders
and such, but never happened to see it on a visor. And to be frank, I never connected
the two designs as they are on different parts of the body, and alos turned the other
way around. Nevermind that, it's just that when one thinks of a nice original design
idea, it then suddenly may become obvious that it's not a first.

I wanted to be a car designer when I was a kid, realizing early that it's not even a thing
here in Finland. Building a rod gives me opportunity to at least make alterations to the
look of the car. Only details and real small things on the body itself, but I am planning
on going wild with the dash for an example. But then again, that depends on how
much (if any) energy is left when that time comes.

The firewall is finally welded to the cowl, so one thing ticked off the 2 do-list

Slow and steady Essex, and keep the creative juices flowing! You will have plenty of energy to get the car done exactly the way you want it..including the dash ;)
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: Essex_29 on October 01, 2022, 06:15:31 PM
True, sixball If the thing is any good, it's probably not a new idea.
I'm not sure I'm entirely with you on the different to be different thinking: My car is a
'57 Pontiac, because a Chevy is too common. It's the first classic  American car
that people learn to recognize. My project car is a Buick sedan, because everyone
and their aunt has Ford rods with small block Chevies in them. I like different.

Hoping to keep the energy flowingchopper526

 The other day I happened to find a prop shaft for sale here in the very
village I live in. it's from a Dodge Ram, and it's the front prop shaft. Since my
transmission (6-speed manual) has a flange rather than a slip joint, a front
drive shaft seemed like a good idea.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick152.jpg)

The prop shaft needs to be lengthened about 4" in the right end in the pic, and
the yoke will be taken from the Chevy Caprice prop shaft in the inset pic. The
rear axle in my Buick is off of an S10, do same universal joint. This is left to a
fabricator now.

Today my good rod building buddy helped me get the body straight and square
on the frame, side ways and length wise. The body was then clamped down, so
that it wouldn't move. Removing one clamp at a time, bolt holes could be drilled.

I'm planning to get six of these done:

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick153.jpg)

Body mount thingies to weld into the cross braces that connects the body to
the frame.
They will mount like this: (http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick153a.jpg)
and they'll be welded to the top of the tubing. Hoping to be able  get someone
persuaded to turn them for me. A lathe is on my wishlist, just gots to send it to Santa.

Two of those tubes are cut for the transmission and prop shaft tunnel, and
need to be reconnected to get back som of their stiffness.
I bent one of those connector pieces tonight, and it goes on top of the
transmission, right between the A-pillars.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick154.jpg)




Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: sixball on October 01, 2022, 11:27:10 PM
Great work & excellent drawings!

I don't know how the explain my feelings on being different just to be different but to has nothing to do with your build which I see as a quality build using unusual components in a very usual way. It on its own will stand out from the crowd. You won't have to do anything to draw attention to it.
 All of those Ford hot rods can all look the same and in fact the more they look alike the more "right" they are. When someone does something just to be different, something no one has ever thought of or done before  something eye-catching and unusual they usually do not improve their car.
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: Essex_29 on October 02, 2022, 04:26:10 PM
Thanks again, sixball. I guess I know what you mean. A fine line between different in a positive sense,
and different in a tacky way, I guess. Like, Saab Aero three spoke wheels might not be a good choice on a
hot rod, even if different can be good.

The bent crossmember connector (actually built from 1/8" thick sheetmetal) was welded in today,
after adding flanges to it. The trans tunnel will be welded to those flanges. The tunnel will be pretty
tight, as I'm going to have to squeeze in three pedals. There's about three eights of room around the
transmission in every direction.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick154a.jpg)

My technical drawings didn't amount to much. I started thinking that it was all too much hassle to
make someone turn the parts, and wait for them and also to pay for the work. Yes I'm cheap. and
want to continue when I'm up to speed. I found a piece of water pipe among the junk under my
bench, and cut pieces from it. Then turned thick washers to the right size, using an epectric drill
in the vice, and a grinder to turn them to a suitable size. Welder to zap the washers in and: Voila!

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick153b.jpg)

I cut a hole in the crossmember with the plasma, insertred the body mount, welded and ground.
I left out some adjustment grinding and such, but in any case, the end result is what I wanted; a
flush bolt head that  can be reached with a socket.


(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick153c.jpg)

If you look at the bolt head, you may notice that the markings are ground off of the bolt head.
I dislike using mertric hardware on my rod builds, and this is an M12 bolt. A 3/4" socket fits
perfectly, so I used one, and now even the bolt doesn't know it's metric anymore!
Imperial hardware is not easy to come by, especially if you want a particular size or lenght,
also not cheap. I always have a stash of bolts for my car builds, but no 1/2" bolts, so....
Well, that's my excuse.  ::)



Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: 62131 on October 02, 2022, 05:37:57 PM
Body mounts turned out great, with very little cost. even better
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: chopper526 on October 03, 2022, 10:31:51 PM
They turned out real nice, you do some good work.
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: Essex_29 on October 10, 2022, 04:10:25 PM
Thank you 62131 and chopper526

Life happens at times, so not much has happened in the garage lately,
mostly more of the same.

More turning down washers to fit inside pipes. The electric drill working
against the side grinder.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick154d.jpg)

More pieces of pipe cut...

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick154c.jpg)

And more body mounts done between the A-pillars, as my phone generated arrows show here.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick154b.jpg)

Finally something fun: I always felt that the frame looks too long in the back,
and have been planning to shorten it  a few inches. I cut it off to get to put
nuts on the rearmost body mount bolts inside the frame, and am very glad
that I have plenty of time to plan for the look of the rear of the frame and body.
 At the very least, I have planned to extend the body two or three inches
downward, to get better proportions, and maybe shorren the frame horns a
bit and maybe move it down some.
We'll see.
For now I think it looks nice
and stubby without the rear part of the frame, but I think some kind of tank
under the frame would look good.
Suggestions are welcome.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick155.jpg)

Oh, and I am going to run fenders and runningboards.
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: chopper526 on October 10, 2022, 06:02:36 PM
The car looks great with the frame shortened, but presents the new dilemma of where to put the tank. Passenger side along the frame rail?
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: TFoch on October 10, 2022, 06:06:09 PM
Rear part of the car looking good!
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: 62131 on October 10, 2022, 06:10:37 PM
Use the area under the rear frame rails to mount your fuel tank as intended, I know it's not the ideal spot, for the look you want, but it's better than in the cabin
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: sixball on October 10, 2022, 10:40:23 PM
Great work, good eye!
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: Essex_29 on October 13, 2022, 03:41:30 PM
chopper526, I've been thinking of actually putting the tank inside the car, standing
against the rear of the body. A cool tank filler in the center, right under the rear window
would look good. But, it's not ideal.
TFoch, thank you. I like it, but I still think it might look odd with nothing back there...
62131, I have been planning on that too, a tank where it should be, but with the frame
modified. I'd prefer at least a 20 gallon tank, so I have to do some maths to see if it is even
possible to fit such a tank behind the rear axle.
sixball, I'm faking it *grins* I don't know what to do about this yet.

Maybe something like this:

(http://waasadata.com/buick/frame2.jpg)

The frame lowered, by welding the stub under the frame itself, continuing the body
downward 3" so the cut off frame doesn't show.
Then the tank under the shortened frame.

Photoshop is a nice tool, when you're planning modifications. Sometimes it shows
what works, and most of the time it shows what doesn't.

Thank you for the input!

Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: Essex_29 on October 13, 2022, 03:50:15 PM


My 1929 Essex Super Six had its tank in the rear, and it didn't look too bad. But
then again, it had leaf springs, so there was an actual reason for the rear of the
frame to be there to begin with.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LYlzcoAzaIc (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LYlzcoAzaIc)
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: chopper526 on October 13, 2022, 04:22:22 PM
I left the apron on my '32 Chevy. I would have liked to gotten rid of it but then I would have had to put my tank in the trunk and I didn't want that. Plus I would have had to change the springs. I had a '38 Plymouth p/u with the tank along the inside of the frame rail, similar to new trucks.
Incidentally, the rear behind my coupe is a '57 Chevy posi rear with 3:55 gears that I picked up last weekend. My car has 4:56 gears in it now. I am going to do a quick pumpkin swap and see if it is a little more highway friendly.
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: 62131 on October 13, 2022, 04:24:53 PM
I used a tank from Tank Inc. 16 gal. had to modify for the electric fuel pump
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: Essex_29 on October 21, 2022, 06:27:34 PM
I put up a video on youtube today. It's just like a slide show, and shows a bunch of pics from my project.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c_HwOQ3jq8U (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c_HwOQ3jq8U)

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/P22.jpg)

Me fuelling up the Caprice wagon on my way home with the project car late summer 2019
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: sixball on October 21, 2022, 07:26:29 PM
Such skills! Great work!
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: sammons on October 21, 2022, 08:23:50 PM
Nice video, good work.
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: 62131 on October 21, 2022, 08:40:43 PM
Nice video. that's one thing I didn't do is take a lot of pictures of my build wish I had of
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: EDNY on October 22, 2022, 05:58:57 AM
Great stuff..you're motivating me to work on my old cars!
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: chopper526 on October 22, 2022, 10:48:24 AM
That looks great, what a transformation!
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: Essex_29 on October 22, 2022, 05:49:14 PM
Thank you Sixball, sammons, 62131, EDNY, chopper526, all for the nice words!

Yes, I take a lot of pictures, they're very nice to have, when you start feeling that you
haven't gotten anything done to the current project. That feeling comes sometime
during every project of mine, then to get my spirits up again, those pics come in handy.

I had a very unproductive week or two, and finally today, I got to work with the roof.
Originally I had planned to make the roof out of wood, like I did on my Essex, but
somewhere along the way I changed my mind, and went for a steel roof instead.
Since I have  made a steel structure from 5/8" square tubing
along the edges of the existing roof... edges(?) - dont
know what to call them - I can't hammer any welds where I'd have to weld. A friend
who has worked at Volvo in Sweden in collision repair, told me, they glued the roofs
on Volvo V70s. The originally roller welded roof was chiselled and ground away, and
the new roof was tacked in a few spots in the front, and then glued. I have a
Volvo roof, so why not?

The roof is some 4" too narrow, so the edges get a pretty pronounced grown, or
down turn if you will. Cutting it a bit more narrow will make it fit much better, but
then we're not left with any surface to glue to. This brings us to todays work. I cut
narrow 1-1/2"strips of 19 gauge sheet metal, and rolled
an edge to some of them in the bead roller.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick156.jpg)

The front strip is tacked to the front of the roof, over the windshield. and the
bead rolled strip along the side, is held on with various clamps.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick156a.jpg)

Here the side strip is welded and ground. As the glue will cover the edge, I
decided that it wasn't necessary to finish weld this, just tack it fairly heavily.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick156b.jpg)

Top view. The strips will make for a nice surface for the adhesive to
adhere to.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick156c.jpg)

A problem area is the rear of the roof, with its lead and all that. I made some
corner parts to ensure good amounts of surface here too.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick156d.jpg)

After welding and grinding this is what it looks like. It will be very interesting
to get the roof fastened to the body.
With any luck I will get the roof sheet lifted off the body, laid upside down
tomorrow, so that I can cut it to size and grind the edges to achieve the
optimal surface for the adhesive. Then back onto the body to see what
the final fit is like. One will just have to hope the crown the roof has, fits
the body when it's back on.
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: 62131 on October 22, 2022, 07:23:53 PM
I used panel adhesive on my header panels above my doors as there was very little to weld to. Make sure it's where you want it before it sets as there's no removing it.
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: Essex_29 on October 23, 2022, 02:35:20 PM
Thank you 62131 for the advice.
I have never done any work like this, but I have a friend who's been
working with collision repair for several years and he has promised to
come do the adhesive thing with me, so I have hopes for it
working out okay.

Today me, my wife and a friend lifted the roof sheet upside down on a
makeshift table. It's so flimsy, you probably can't lift it at all without
being three people, six hands holding it. It wants to fold, there's so
little crown in the panel.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick156e.jpg)

Now it's cut to size and the paint is ground off where the adhesive will
go. Now I have to get some help lifiting it back onto the body again, for
a test fit. Then back off again a few times, I guess.
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: Essex_29 on October 25, 2022, 02:45:39 PM
I got some help today, so the roof was lifted back up on the body. As I guessed, it needed a
few tweaks to fit. Also the sheet metal strips needed hammering and adjusting to make for
a good fit against the roof sheet.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick156f.jpg)

As can be seen in this pic, the crown and the shape of the roof is just perfect. I coudn't
have asked for a better fitting roof, I got real lucky.

As the mounts for the aprons are easiest to make before the floor goes in, I cut eight
pieces of 1/8" sheetmetal and drilled a hole in each to make apron mounts. I intend
to mount the aprons on the side of the frame, insted of sandwiched between the
frame and the body, as per original.

I had gotten concerned about the whole car being too tall, it's 67" after all, but the
running boards are right about 4" off the ground in the front end, so I think that
will look good for a normal ride height.


(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/Buick_10.22.jpg)

Lots of work with those aprons and fenders...
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: 62131 on October 25, 2022, 05:00:17 PM
The roof looks great, the apron height is perfect in my opinion
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: TFoch on October 25, 2022, 06:29:25 PM
Nice work on the roof, looks great!  Judging by where the running boards are the car should sit just right!
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: chopper526 on October 25, 2022, 10:39:40 PM
That roof turned out real nice, good job.
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: Essex_29 on October 29, 2022, 03:40:24 PM
Thank you for the positive opinions regarding the height of the apron, 62131 and
TFoch. It's almost impossible to really get a good feel for what it looks like in a pic,
but I think it looks okay, and as planned it's fairly low in the front and the rake is
"noticeable" at 3 degrees.
You too chopper526, the roof looks good right now, but it's too early to see how
it really turns out. Still have the adhesive thing to do... Both exciting and a bit nerve wrecking.

While I would have gotten the adhesive last monday, I cheaped out and started
looking for other possibilities than 3M's glue. I decided that I need two packs of the
glue, and it's pretty expensive, so I thought I'd go with some cheaper stuff. I couldn't
get hold of any locally, so now waiting for the 3M adhesive I ordered  anyway a few days ago (deliveries
on mondays only with free freight), I continued with the aprons. I've been planning those,
some, and got to work, making mounts for them.
I started by cutting and drilling eight mounts from 1/8" thick
sheetmetal. I'm going to mount the aprons to the side of the frame, instead of
sandwiching them bethween the frame and the body as per original.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick157c.jpg)

I bought two 2 meter long sticks of 1-3/16" angle iron, cut them to
length and drilled four holes in each. Then bolted  the new parts together.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick157a.jpg)

Finally I welded the mounts to the top of the frame (outlined in red).

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick157b.jpg)

The new aprons will be drilled and then sandwiched between the mounts and the
angle irons. Then the 5/16UNC nuts will be w elded to the
mounts, as there will be no way to get to those once the floor is welded in.
Well, short of lifting the body off the frame, that is.

Luck struck again, as I will be able to use the aprons I made for the Essex in 2007!
I made them before deciding to go fenderless. I did not expect them to be long enough,
because I felt that the Essex was smaller.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick157.jpg)

The aprons are plenty long enough, and I'm very happy to be able to use them, as they've been
using space for half an eternity, and they were a chore to make.
I made a hammerform from a wooden plank, 8" x 2", and shaped it by hand with saws and
planes and whatnot. Then hammered the sheetmetal to submission. Even 19 gauge sheet metal takes
some persuation to bend when it's as long as the aprons



Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: chopper526 on October 31, 2022, 09:48:48 AM
Nice work on that apron, I would have thought you bought it. I think you made a wise choice going with the 3M adhesive, it might cost a little more but could be the best choice in the long run.
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: 62131 on October 31, 2022, 03:51:48 PM
the apron you made looks factory, I'm sure its better than the original
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: sammons on November 01, 2022, 06:56:49 PM
Nice fit on the top insert, hope she bonds down good for you.

Those side aprons look great, nice work. Glad they will be long enough to trim down for you.
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: Essex_29 on November 03, 2022, 04:36:13 AM
Thank you once again for the positives, Chopper526, 62131 and sammons

The roof insert was bonded and adhered to the body last night.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick156g.jpg)

Looks mostly the same as before, but it feels much better now, just
knowing it's done.

Glue gun used looks like this:

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick156h.jpg)

The gun was quite a "handful" so a good thing there were two of us. One person
would have had under arms like Popeye today. Dang, it had to be squeezed hard!
Anyway, there it is, things looking like it all worked out good.
I had to bump up the heat in the garage to about 70, which now, with the situation 
here with 325% increase in electric power prises... Oh well, I'll turn it back down when
I'm satisfied that it's thoroughly set. Setting time is supposed to be around
4 hours, but I'll go for 24 hours to be sure. Normally in wintertime I have a
bit below 50 degres in the garage, which suits me well, but isn't ideal for 2 K
adhesives, paints and epoxies to cure.

Annoying as it is, I worked a bit "too much" in 2007 on the driver's side apron, so
I have to widen the top surface about two inches at the back. Luckily this will be
under the body, so a simple to weld lap joint will do. The lap joint was rolled in a bead roller.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick157d.jpg)

Also this week I received the new tires I ordered on sunday. I always felt a bit
disappointed at the size of those Cooper Cobra 275/60-15s, so I odered
a pair of 285/70-15s. They're significantly higher, the size is perfect.
 I don't really like that modern thread pattern, but these tires cost less than a third
of  pair of BFGs.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick158.jpg)

I'm sure these will look suitably big on the 11" wide slot mags I have in store for them.


Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: TFoch on November 03, 2022, 06:24:48 AM
Looking great!  Glad the adhesive worked for you and you got your workout for the day!
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: 62131 on November 03, 2022, 06:39:33 AM
Looks like your adhesive went on well, the insert looks good, I like the tread pattern on the tires they willl not hold pepples very well
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: Essex_29 on November 03, 2022, 02:54:18 PM
Thanks TFoch, It workded out good, but I was a bit anxious
as it took waay long to get the glue out, and I was afraid of it going
off too soon.
No 62131, stones big enough to stick in those tire threads will
be thrown off immediately.

The roof looks good still, and the adhesive is completely cured.

I got the new tires mounted on the slot mags a couple hours ago,
and I'm really stoked. I like how it looks now better than before.
It looks more compact.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick158a.jpg)

You might notice the stands under the frame. It's still all bolted to
the floor, so the frame and body are rigidly mounted to a fixed
height. I just lifted the axles some to accomodate the bigger wheels.
By the way, those 9" wide front and 11" wide rear mags are off of a DeTomaso Pantera, that a friend of mine
modernized with big inch rims.
The way I roll is on 15" wheels.
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: TFoch on November 03, 2022, 03:26:04 PM
That looks Killer!  I like the 15" wheels too!  Keep working at it!
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: 62131 on November 03, 2022, 04:18:01 PM
I run 15's on my 32, but 16's or 17" on the rear would have probably worked better as I had to run a really tall tire to get the look I wanted with fenders
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: Rattiac on November 03, 2022, 10:40:54 PM
Those wheels/tires are sweet.   8)
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: chopper526 on November 04, 2022, 10:11:32 AM
You are moving along pretty quickly, and it's looking great. Big fan of those wheels.
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: sammons on November 04, 2022, 11:03:41 AM
Essex your sedan is looking great, nice work! Nerve racking worrying about a large area like that starting to set off before your ready. Kinda like bonding a complete front clip on an old Vette😁 Those bonding glues are hard to dispense. I developed those "Popeye" fore arms from holding a paint gun 5 days a werk for decades, and really got sore sqeezing the old windshield urethane.

Those aluminum slot wheels were always my go to, Craigars were ok but the chrome never stayed on the centers. I put Cooper Cobras on my coupe, 295/50-15 rear and 235/60-15 front. Just wish the letters were smaller. I always thought the tread pattern had a bit of a dirt track tread, which i like for mine.
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: Essex_29 on November 05, 2022, 06:44:24 PM
Thanks TFoch!
62131, I like tall tires and the classic look that goes with them,
but it's all a matter of taste.
Rattiac, chopper526 and sammons, even the modern
thread pattern doesn't bug me too much anymore, since I think it
looks so much better with the slot mags and tall tires. I like
widened steelies a lot, but the mags are a win this time.

Aprons on the to do list today. I have the driver's side one
done for now. In time I'll continue working on them when it's time
to get them to work with the running boards and fenders. Right
hand side apron is cut and ready and all parts made, but the
mounts still have to be welded to the frame and the apron
itself mated to the mounts.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick157e.jpg)

Also started working on some small gussets for the B-pillars. So, looking
forward to start making the floors now. I have no idea how I will do the
bead rolling in the floors. Hoping to get an unusual idea, for a bead
pattern or something, but still no fun ideas...
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: EDNY on November 05, 2022, 07:07:59 PM
Essex_29  Happy Birthday!
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: 62131 on November 05, 2022, 07:17:38 PM
Essex_29 Happy Birthday hope you had a great day























-









Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: Essex_29 on November 05, 2022, 08:14:49 PM
Thank you So much!
Yes I had a great day, spent most of it in the garage too  8)
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: TFoch on November 05, 2022, 09:33:58 PM
Happy Birthday Essex_29!  Keep at it!
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: chopper526 on November 06, 2022, 11:33:46 AM
Happy Belated Birthday, buddy!!
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: Essex_29 on November 06, 2022, 02:16:05 PM
Thanks again to you all!

Spending a lot of my energy nomming birthday goodies today, there wasn't
much energy left for work on the Buick. I got some work done on the right
hand side apron, though, the mounts are welded to the frame. Mounting
holes still have to be drilled in the apron, so not done yet.

Gussets at the bottom of the B-pillars are finished.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick159.jpg)

They aren't very big, but I hope they'll help stabilize the center of the body
a little bit. Also welded in were the small pieces of sheetmetal shelving
around the gussets that the floor will lay on and be spot welded to.

The gussets came out pretty small and tidy, and I hope they won't be too
much in the way for someone trying to get into the back seat.
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: Essex_29 on November 08, 2022, 02:30:44 PM
Finally got a good day's work done, even if it's just a normal tuesday.
The final four body mounts are done now.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick159a.jpg)

I realized that the K-member is at the same height as the frame rails, so the
body brace would probably start rattling at some point if it's not bolted
down here properly. The last two already made flushmounts were welded
in (foreground in the left pic).
The right pic shows one of the the rear most body mounts, and as it's at
the rear corner of the body, the bolt head doesn't need to be flush. Instead
I just welded in a short bit of   1/8" wall tubing with 1/2"
inner diameter, so the body frame/brace won't get crushed.

When all this was done the bracing inside the body could be cut out.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick159b.jpg)

So now the body is almost ready for the floor, and I'm looking forward to
that. Actually, there's a few things...
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: chopper526 on November 10, 2022, 09:02:38 AM
That turned out really good, looking great! But, could you not have taken about 1/4" off the top of the crossmember?
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: Essex_29 on November 10, 2022, 04:00:37 PM
Sorry chopper526, I don't know what you mean, cutting 1/4" of the top of
what crossmember?
If you meant where I put two more bolts to keep things from rattling, so yes, I
guess I could have, but it doesn't hurt to have the body fastened to the frame
in a couple more spots. My wife will no doubt ask me to put in seat belts, and
they would probably be fastened in that general area in that case.

Right there in the center of the floor, there will be a little but sturdy bent piece
bridging the body brace over the prop shaft tunnel. I'm hoping to get back
the prop shaft before making the trans tunnel, just to be completely certain
that it's made high enough.
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: TFoch on November 10, 2022, 04:45:18 PM
Looking good Essex_29!
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: chopper526 on November 10, 2022, 07:21:56 PM
Sorry chopper526, I don't know what you mean, cutting 1/4" of the top of
what crossmember?
If you meant where I put two more bolts to keep things from rattling, so yes, I
guess I could have, but it doesn't hurt to have the body fastened to the frame
in a couple more spots. My wife will no doubt ask me to put in seat belts, and
they would probably be fastened in that general area in that case.

Right there in the center of the floor, there will be a little but sturdy bent piece
bridging the body brace over the prop shaft tunnel. I'm hoping to get back
the prop shaft before making the trans tunnel, just to be completely certain
that it's made high enough.

Yes, that is what I meant, but I am seeing better what you did. And, 100%, you have to put in seat belts!
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: Essex_29 on November 13, 2022, 01:45:41 PM
Yes chopper526, I'll put some belts in it for sure. I didn't have any in my
Essex, but all my later cars and builds have had them.

Not much done the last few days, saturday is usually my best day of the week,
but I had to be on a course all day, then the wife's car needed some attention...
The right hand side apron is done, though, so something. I also started
cleaning up some engine parts, they need to be painted sooner or later anyway.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick159c.jpg)

I lost half of the exhaust on my daily, so I have to address that very soon
too. Can't procrastrinate with everything indefinitely.

I played around a bit and tried the rear wheels in the front. It makes for
a very special look with 375/60-15 tires. I got inspired and did a kind
of a half assed concept to try the idea. Big tires all around, front half
fenders, rear fender faired into the running board, and pulled out in
a drop shape like an air plane landing geat spat. Front wing, and
probably a diffuser in the back.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buickr02.jpg)

Funny how low the roof looks, almost as it would be chopped an
inch or two.
I hate it when people put the year of the car as a racing number
on the door. So I'd have it at least one year off, just
to annoy people.

Photoshop is a great tool for trying out ideas, and to see if they
have any potential.

I met my machinist today, he'll hopefully get to re drilling my drive
shafts for five on 4-1/2" bolt circle soon,
so I can ge the wheels bolted to the axle.
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: Essex_29 on November 13, 2022, 02:05:35 PM
When I bought the slot mags I made this concept. This is kinda
what I have aimed at and gone towards all the time.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/Rod2021.jpg)

I will probably bob the rear fenders a bit, or shorten them (same thing?). The
engine in this pic is a lengthened nail head, which would be an awesome engine,
had it ever been produced.
This is probably pretty close to what I will do, with the addition of glossy
black, and maybe flames. I haven't painted flames in many years, and went
with sating black and scallops on the Essex.

(http://www.waasadata.com/essex/bild/15_19.jpg)

The "moon tank" in the front was kind of a novel idea, it is a shortened air
tank from a truck to which I welded a filler neck, cut up in an inconspicuous way.
I then made a tray for the battery in it.
I assume not many rods have the main battery switch under the moon tank.

Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: 62131 on November 13, 2022, 05:09:40 PM
I like the concept picture, to me it sets great and just plain looks cooool  8)
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: TFoch on November 13, 2022, 05:35:08 PM
Not used to seeing a header with 6 tubes on one side! Very cool!
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: Essex_29 on November 19, 2022, 03:02:38 PM
Thank you 62131 It's fun to play with ideas for sure. And yes, TFoch, six header
tubes per side is a huge thing with this project.

Rust is also a thing, still, a few spots of that kind to attend to.  The bottom
of the cowl area is a bit crusty, so that's best taken care of now, because the plan
is for the floor in the front to attach to the new part. There's like a little shelf on
the inside to rosette weld the floor to.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick160d.jpg)

Here's the "before" and the new part welded in. Actually parts, because I couldn't
make it in one piece. Then ground:

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick160g.jpg)

I'm pretty pleased with the result, but it alos took me quite a few hours.
The other side is worse, rusted higher up the side, so a bigger
patch part is needed.
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: Essex_29 on November 19, 2022, 03:17:23 PM
 After taking a deep breath, I decided to make a whole new bottom part, bead and all. I don't have a bead
roller big enough for this kind of work, but got an idea, and cut out some 19 gauge sheet metal, then
made a bend in the break:

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick160.jpg)

I then bent the bend back, and it rolled over to about the right shape. I put a tube in the vice, and
rolled a round shape to it, just manhandling it:

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick160a.jpg)

Two inches longer and I probably wouldn't have gotten it bent.

Another break in about the right place. It was a bit tricky to get the break tight enough, and in
the end I had to make the last break just hammering it into submission.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick160b.jpg)

Finally the little shelf for attaching the floor on the inside, was cut to a suitable width.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick160c.jpg)

The end result looks similar enough to the original, so for now, it seems I can use this patch panel.
This is a situation, where I think it paid off to decide to make a fairly big patch, instead of cutting
just barely the worst rust out, and make like five small patches. We'll see.

Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: chopper526 on November 19, 2022, 03:18:45 PM
That turned out real nice and well worth however much time you put into it.
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: Essex_29 on November 19, 2022, 03:30:04 PM
Thank you for the nice words, chopper526

But:
(http://waasadata.com/buick/img/W.jpg)

 ::)
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: 62131 on November 19, 2022, 03:37:41 PM
Your patch panels turned out nice. I was lucky I could buy all the quarter, rocker and cowl patch panels for my 32 Chevy. The only panel not available was the rear lower part of body. After looking at it awhile, I purchased two more quarter patch panels and welded them end to end to fabricate the rear panel.
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: 62131 on November 19, 2022, 03:43:23 PM
The 32 chevy patch panels look very close to what you made by the way
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: sammons on November 20, 2022, 07:51:47 PM
Essex it's looking great, nice work.
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: sixball on November 20, 2022, 09:43:36 PM
Great work. I'm afraid to grind my welds. They tend to disappear.  :o
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: Essex_29 on November 22, 2022, 03:36:27 PM
Thank you 62131. I've never really had a car that I could get any patch panels for.
Except for the 1967 C30 that I got a brand new inner fender for. It was so thin, though,
so I dented it resting my elbow on it when I was working on the engine. Someone
ordered it super cheap from China for sure. I bought it from an American company, though.
Good thing you found some patch panels that suited your needs and could be used!
And you too, sammons and sixball. I try to avoid grinding off all my welds
too. At times I get a bit too enthusiastic, wanting things to look its best.
Shouldn't do that.

Anyway, the patch panel is welded in, and a couple smaller pieces added. luckily enough, I
had a pair of dies so I could make that thin vertical bead in my bead roller. The whole
thing looks a  similar enough to the other side, so I called it good.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick160e.jpg)
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: Essex_29 on November 24, 2022, 02:26:35 PM
Now that the rust in the cowl area is taken care of, work commences with things that have to be
done to get the floors in. Obviously the firewall has to be done first.
I cut out a piece of sheetmetal large enough to cover the opening in the firewall, leaving it
about 5/8" over size in all directions, and then made a carbdboard template
for the transmission bellhousing.
The sheet metal piece had one edge bent about 45o into a flange of sorts, to fit the
opening, and the bell housing hole was cut according to the template.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick160f.jpg)

The opening for the transmission was cut pretty tight, as there's not too much space for
three pedals. A flange about 5/8" was bent bith a tipping die on my little bead
roller, and using the stretcher I got it pretty flat. Same thing around the sides, the same kind of
about 5/8" wide flanges.
Finally a bunch of holes were drilled in the flanges, and the whole ting was rosette
welded to the firewall.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick160h1.jpg)

Actually, the bottom flanges (red arrow) were bent before welding the panel to the firewall.
Now this new  flange has to be connected with the one that is part of the patch
panel I made a few days ago. This is fun and straight forward work, much
more fun than patching rust holes.
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: 62131 on November 24, 2022, 04:41:15 PM
The firewall looks great, are you using any weld thru primmer where you're lapping the metal?
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: chopper526 on November 26, 2022, 11:03:19 AM
Thank you for the nice words, chopper526

But:
(http://waasadata.com/buick/img/W.jpg)

 ::)

That is me for sure!!! You, not really, you have some nice welds. I too used patch panels that I bought, I don't quite have the skills of tools to do what you did.
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: Essex_29 on November 26, 2022, 04:58:40 PM
No, I'm not using any primer, 62131, I don't like how it welds and how it smokes. Maybe
I have used bad primer. In any case,  as this is a car that will be used in the summers only, I'm
not too concerned about rust. I think the whole car has always lacked any paint on the inside and
it has held up decently for 92 years or so. I'll wick in thinned epoxy into all weld seams when
that time comes. It probably won't help anything besides my conscience.

Thank you, chopper526 for the kind workds, but really, the only tools I used was a
sheet metal brake, a hammer and a piece of 1-7/8" tubing. I think my best tool is youtube.
I've learned lots from watching fabrication videos.

So, today it was time to finally start working on the floor, or more to the point, the
transmission tunnel. Some people claim to cut sheet metal wothout ever using any
paper templates, but some card board really made my day!
The sides along the transmission tunnel are bent to little shelves, or flanges, that the
floor will weld to. The floor pieces in the pic are just more paper patterns made
from thin cardboard.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick161.jpg)

This is fun. Big pieces of sheet metal makes it feel like I get lots of work done.
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: TFoch on November 26, 2022, 07:49:00 PM
Nice progress!
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: sammons on November 26, 2022, 09:30:36 PM
Looks great!  Yes, carboard templates are the way to go. You can test fit and make changes easy. Sure beats doing sheet metal at todays prices if you have a change for a better idea.
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: Essex_29 on November 27, 2022, 03:03:13 PM
Thank you TFoch, it's been a productive couple days. And (reading your signatiure
text) my grandkids aren't living close by, so I don't really build cars instead of having quality
time with them #just saying.
And yes, sammons, so easy to make cardboard templates, adjusting with scissors,
then adding with tape if needed. Make some changes, then adjust again. And when all is
good, trace onto sheet metal and Bob's your uncle.

Today I continued the shelf- or flange pieces around all the front floor, and that took me
forever. Sometimes I'm really surprised at how little I can get done in a few hours. That done
it was easy to adjust the template, and then to cut out the floor piece from sheet metal.
After a lunch break I did the same on the other side, trying to keep some kind of pace.
Pondering about how to make the rest of the transmission tunnel, I came to some kind
of conclusion, and could make the bracing for the center part of the floor/tunnel.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick161b.jpg)

The one by one tubes along the trans tunnel are set down 40 thousands, as I will put a
brake in the tunnel and weld that on top of the tubes. Then weld the floor panels on top
of that. The braces that go from the midle of the door to the rear of the transmission, are
a bit diagonal like that just to make for a more interesting bead pattern in the floor, come that time.
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: Essex_29 on November 29, 2022, 03:26:04 PM
I continued making the drive's side middle floor panel. It's fun to make these big panels as it feels
you get something done as they show so well. The floor is a bit oversize in the door opening, since
I will have to make a piece that continues the bead along the bottom of the cowl and quarter
panel, and ties them together under the door.  This whole thing has to follow the curvature of
the bottom of the door. Only one of these parts came with the car, and it is severely rusted, so
I have to try and make my own.
I just have to consider myself lucky to have something to work off and use as a pattern.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick161c.jpg)

I mounted the driver's side door today, and surprisingly, it made the body look longer. The door
has been off for almost a year now, so it looks unfamiliar in a way.
Funny how the eyes get used to what you're working with.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick162.jpg)

I assumed the door would hover above the floor level, but with the floor panel sticking out
under the door, it won't shut.  I guess I have to adjust my plans for the door sill/treshold some.
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: chopper526 on November 29, 2022, 10:51:01 PM
A minor speed bump, you'll work it out no problem ;D
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: TFoch on November 30, 2022, 08:10:43 AM
Those big pieces fill a lot of space!  I like the way it's turning out!
Tom
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: sixball on November 30, 2022, 11:47:02 AM
A couple of stone mason friends helped me build a retaining wall here. They called the big flat rocks "acre makers". Visually it is sort of the same thing especially when we spend so much time on the little details.

There is some very nice work being done here.
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: 62131 on November 30, 2022, 03:35:26 PM
Your floor pans are looking great, you mentioned some bead roll work, that will really set them off
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: Essex_29 on December 03, 2022, 03:52:28 PM
I hope I will, chopper526.
Thank you, TFoch, they do. I used almost an entire 29"x78" 19 ga sheet the last couple
days (that would be 1 meter by 2 metesr by 1 millimeter in European speak).
I suck those words in like a sponge,sixball *grins* Yep, "acre makers", fits right in.

I got a nice little package in the mail. I finally got the wheel nuts and studs ordered, they
arrived the next day, fast delivery! My Chevy drive shafts will be re-drilled for five on 4-1/2"
bolt circle, to make the mags fit.
Also, I can get the fronts bolted on, as I now have nuts that fit.
Oh, and the S10 rear axle gets half inch studs instead of 12mm.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick162a.jpg)

Floors are coming nicely, and using cardboard templates has spared me from having to do
multiple panels for any one space, so far. Working hard on getting it all straigt and level too.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick161e.jpg)

So, about the breads, 62131, here's what I planned. Nothing fancy, just simple beads,
and aiming to get them in line and parallel.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick161d.jpg)

The hole in the floor? The upper four link bars would hit the floor, so I'll make some
kind of "bump" here. Arrow, in case you don't find the hole. I like making arrows.
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: TFoch on December 03, 2022, 04:39:16 PM
I've seen guys use old steel toe boot caps to make the ends of the cover piece you need to make.  Just an idea for you.
Tom
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: sixball on December 03, 2022, 10:20:16 PM
How many of us benefit from someone else's ideas. What a gift it is to see how something we have can become something we need.
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: Essex_29 on December 05, 2022, 03:39:08 AM
Thank you TFoch, for the tip (toe tip) almost made a pun there! I'll try to remember that, but in
this case, I'll probably be using a straight piece. We'll see.

And yes, sixball, I've benefitted immensely from watching how to videos on youtube, and getting
 good advice from people on forums. My work would be no where if it weren't for
what I've learned from others.

More floor work.
I welded a 1" sqare tube between the wheel tubs, to weld the floor to,and to give it some structure.
I think all this will be plenty strong when it's all welded to a unit.
I bent the rounded corners around a pipe. The vertical parts are also slanted, so it made for some
interesting pattern making to get right. There's a bead in the center, to make the panels fit flush.
Everything will be rosette welded at some point.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick161f.jpg)

The upper clamps in the pic is probably right at where the front edge of the rear seat will be.
some floor work back there too, to get things all wrapped up. This area is all unplanned still.
I did an "oops" on the slanted part of the floor to the right in the pic. I cut too far, and then
changed my plans. It bugs me, I might make a new floor part, but it's  a fairly big piece of
sheet metal, and I'm cheap...
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: Essex_29 on December 05, 2022, 04:04:11 PM
I continued my template making today, and went for an extension of the transmission tunnel. It's
a tight fit all over since I hope to be able to get thre fairly comfortable pedals mounted. There is
only between 3/8" and 5/8" of room between the transmission case and the tunnel. I'll probably
regret making it this tight at some point.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick161g.jpg)

I would have wanted a shifter poking up somewhere in this second part of the tunnel, but the
BMW shifter is coming out of the rear of the transmission.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick161h.jpg)

This is the original BMW 530 shifter. It looks to be awful far back, but I'm fairly confident that I
will make it work nicely even if I shorten the longitudinal shift link some 6". This will effectively
move the shifter forward, so that will be about at the front of the seat. A pretty tall crooked
shifter will make it work. I hope. With tall, I mean like 17".
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: chopper526 on December 05, 2022, 07:40:15 PM
Thank you TFoch, for the tip (toe tip) almost made a pun there! I'll try to remember that, but in
this case, I'll probably be using a straight piece. We'll see.

And yes, sixball, I've benefitted immensely from watching how to videos on youtube, and getting
 good advice from people on forums. My work would be no where if it weren't for
what I've learned from others.

More floor work.
I welded a 1" sqare tube between the wheel tubs, to weld the floor to,and to give it some structure.
I think all this will be plenty strong when it's all welded to a unit.
I bent the rounded corners around a pipe. The vertical parts are also slanted, so it made for some
interesting pattern making to get right. There's a bead in the center, to make the panels fit flush.
Everything will be rosette welded at some point.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick161f.jpg)

The upper clamps in the pic is probably right at where the front edge of the rear seat will be.
some floor work back there too, to get things all wrapped up. This area is all unplanned still.
I did an "oops" on the slanted part of the floor to the right in the pic. I cut too far, and then
changed my plans. It bugs me, I might make a new floor part, but it's  a fairly big piece of
sheet metal, and I'm cheap...

Piece that floor part in, it will work fine and no one will ever know except you. :)
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: sammons on December 06, 2022, 09:23:20 AM
Essex, your floor is looking great. Nice work.

I agree with Chopper, no one will ever see that kick up hickup😁   Don't beat your self up over that, i use to and would make a new panel. Then only to cover it up with insuation/ carpet and think back.....why did i do that? Really waisting time and material. Dad always said i was my worst enemy, he was right.
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: Essex_29 on December 10, 2022, 03:56:45 PM
Yes, chopper526, after giving it some thought, I think I'll leave it be. Besides,
I can put on some filler and paint, hehe.
sammons, thank you for the wise words from your dad. I guess.... Sometimes I am.

Still more floor work
I went to a buddy's shop and brought with me a few big offcuts of the same material I'm
using for the floor. I got busy experimenting with some bead roller dies, and pre-stretching
on the english wheel, which I haven't done before.
I chose a square bead, because it's a bit unusual and I like the look.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick161i.jpg)

I kicked the wheel very tight and rolled twelve times over each line where I was going to
roll the beads. The beads I rolled were fairly substantial, so without pre-stretching, the
sheet metal warped badly.

Back home, the driver's side middle floor panel is tried into its place. These middle parts
warped the worst, but I think they'll sort themselves out when I get them welded in.
I tidied the ends of the beads up with a chisel that I ground to a dull square end with
rounded corners.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick161j.jpg)

There, at the rear of the door opening, I made a square stamping. I had tried hard to
come up with something fun for the floors, and this is the one detail I came to think of.
What's an hour or a few to make a stamping die, when you haven't got anything else to do?

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick161k.jpg)

A Body by Fisher plaque. Genuine floors... Right. Anyway, I think it's a fun detail, also
a bit GM specific. This one's been on the cowl, where I cut out some rust.
So now there's a ton of drilling and plug welding to get the floors in. I have borrowed
a pneumatic hole punch, it saves a lot of time, but of course, it can be used only on the
edges of a sheet

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick161l.jpg)

Wood chips are frome the two by four in my vice.
Just one little floor piece tacked in yet, but this is fun work, doing these "acre makers".



Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: sixball on December 10, 2022, 10:34:40 PM
More good work! You just keep nailing it.
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: Essex_29 on December 13, 2022, 03:41:39 PM
Thank you, sixball!

In any case, this is much more work than I had expected. I put in waterproof plywood floor in my Essex,
and I think that was less work, still for a very tidy result. Speaking of which, I found a couple nice
3/4" plywood offcuts that will be used for the running boards. I think they will be very stiff and robust.

I fitted the little floor piece in the front, tacked it in, and continued with the middle part. Since I'm
plug welding through fairly small holes, I cranked the voltage up pretty high, and drilled and stamped
the holes about 1-1/4" apart.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick161n.jpg)

Tonight I welded the front part of the right hand side floor in, and ground off the tops of the spot
welds on the driver's side.
3M Cubitron fiber discs on an angle grinder makes short work of knocking down the welds. They're expesive, but worth
it every day of the week. I have tried several other makes of sanding discs, but these 3Ms are outstanding.
I had a new 24 grit Bosch disc, and counted seconds, as I ground the welds. Ten seconds at least, per
weld. The 36 grit cubitron took them down in four seconds or less, and that disc was slightly used.
That's my tip of the day.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick161m.jpg)

The driver's side is  the far side in this pic. The near (right hand) side is just adjusted to fit and
screwed in with a couple selftappers in lieu of clecos.
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: sixball on December 13, 2022, 08:32:57 PM
 :)
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: 62131 on December 13, 2022, 09:54:54 PM
Floor pans are coming along nice
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: TFoch on December 14, 2022, 07:01:22 AM
Really moving along!  Nice work!
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: chopper526 on December 14, 2022, 06:13:54 PM
Those pans look too good to put carpet on ;D
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: Essex_29 on December 19, 2022, 10:16:20 AM
Thank you all!
In all honesty it feels a bit like treading water at the moment, maybe it's a good thing christmas
is coming, so I can take a couple days off from the project.

I had to cut the bottom edge of the wheel tubs along the frame to give the rear axle space to get
it lifted up so that it bottomed out against the frame. The cut is the rounded edge inboard of
the brake drum.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick162b.jpg)

You may notice a wheel stud is missing. I just removed it to use as a template for ordering new
studs. My new Moser steel axles will get drilled to 4-1/2" to fit the slotmags

When checked that the prop shaft will indeed fit under the frame loop, I could start cutting out the
material for another piece of the trans tunnel. I bent the sheet around a too small diameter tube,
so it took a lot of finessing and a few harsh words, when nobody listened, to get it acceptable.
What I call the "frame loop" is to the right of the new piece of tunnel. It's part of the frame, and
the trans tunnel will curve around it, not touching, to avoid rattles.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick161o.jpg)

A couple floor pieces welded in and ground on the right hand side now too. The shifter will come
up through the new tunnel piece just a couple inches from the front, so there's a bit of planning
and doing still before it can be welded to the floor.
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: Essex_29 on December 31, 2022, 05:40:57 PM
Happy new Year!

It's now already 2023 here, 13 minutes into the new year.
Last thing I did last year was getting the floor ready. The wife's away, visiting our son and his
daugher. He works most days now (200% pay on sundays and general non work days), and
his wife is at her parent's place.
So here I am, home alone, spending quality time in the garage.

The middle body crossmember got a center brace. It's really only needed to stiffen the body
while it's off the frame.

(http://waasadata.com/buick/img/buick161q.jpg)

It's 5mm plate, a bit thicker than 3/16"

"A few hundred" holes (every 1-3/16")punched and about the same amount of plugwelds later the rear of the
floor and the rearmost piece of the transmission tunnel are welded in. All kinds of grinders and
rotary files I own got used knocking down the welds, and of course grinding the humps for the
 rear axle four links, as I had to weld them with visible welds, which of cours is a pain to grind. I
made them from 3" exhaust pipe, it seemed to be the easiest way to get a nice shape to them.

(http://waasadata.com/buick/img/buick161s.jpg)

The center piece of the transmission tunnel is just mocked in, as the shifter will be attached
to it before it can be welded. So that aside, all that's left is the rearmost 18 or so inches, which will
be under rear seat.
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: TFoch on December 31, 2022, 07:42:27 PM
Happy New Year!  The floor is looking great!  Nice progress!
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: sixball on December 31, 2022, 09:38:38 PM
Happy New Year! Looks good!
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: 62131 on January 01, 2023, 01:40:07 AM
The floor turned out nice
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: Essex_29 on January 01, 2023, 06:13:03 PM
Thank you TFoch, sixball and 62131.

Continuing with the look of the car from the outside, but still kind of connected to the floor:

(http://waasadata.com/buick/img/buick161t.jpg)

The beads along the bottom of the body are supposed to coninue under the doors. One of these
parts are missing entirely, and the other one's so rusted, it's unusable. I figured I can make
something similar looking from 1" dia tubing. I rolled the tubing with my tubing roller/bender, and
got a slightly curved tube, then cut it in half along its length. I then cut the floor, which I previously
had made a bit over size in the door openings, to fit the bent tube.

(http://waasadata.com/buick/img/buick161u.jpg)

I welded 3/16" end plates to the half tube, so that I could grind a bit of a rounded edge to it, then welded it to the floor.

Surprisingly, this simple way to make the bead part looks pretty decent, even if it's just a piece of tubing.

(http://waasadata.com/buick/img/buick161v.jpg)

You have to really bend down to see that the bead is a couple sixteenths too shallow (against the apron),
but everything is likely going to be black, so nobody will probably notice.



Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: sammons on January 01, 2023, 07:40:49 PM
Looking good!  I also use tubbing, (actualy electrical conduit) for rocker below the door.
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: Essex_29 on January 06, 2023, 04:25:08 AM
About 233 days of work in fifteen months between thses pics. The result to the most part is... New wheels???
Funny how sometimes one's work doesn't show very well. At least if you don't look closer.

(http://waasadata.com/buick/img/buick2022.jpg)

I keep track on the days in the garage. In 2022 onehundred and eighty five days were spent in the
shop, working on the Buick. I never counted the hours, but an educated guess would be an average
of maybe 480 hours per year, but then there isn't an hour in a day, when I don't think about
my current project.
I'm lycky enough to be happily married to a wonderful woman, who makes it all possible.

So there's todays musings about the year that went. Who knows, maybe in another fifteen months we'll
see a bigger change.
I wish you all a fun 2023, wishing that we all may get do what we like the best!
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: sixball on January 06, 2023, 11:53:15 AM
Very few people who see your car will have any idea of the time & skill invested. In many ways it is like building a house. When finished the foundation, framing, wiring, & plumbing doesn't show. Cars without a good foundation can be built and they might even LOOK good. We and you will know the difference here!
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: 62131 on January 06, 2023, 12:22:51 PM
A lot of people only see the shiny paint and never see or think about the time and work that was put into it
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: Essex_29 on January 14, 2023, 05:02:51 PM
Well said, sixball. Actually in 2007, about a year before I got my Essex rod done, a
friend of mine, who was building a '30 Chevrolet pick up that was almost ready, said: "This
 is almost as much work as building a house". Not far off, perhaps.
You're right about that, 62131. One thing that's funny too, is that if you get some
bitter critic, most of the time it will be from guys who haven't built cars themselves.

In any case, on the top pic, snapped some 15 months ago, you can see the front wheel is just
standing by itself on the floor. Lots of things have been done, but in those pics it doesn't
really show, unless one takes a good look.

Anyway, on with the door openings.
One of the tops of the door jambs was missing, and some previous owner had gotten
one from a four door car. I had been planning on just lengthen that one, but then I noticed that
I had made the door itself incompatible with the original top jamb parts. So here's a new version.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick163.jpg)

Here, welded to the roof.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick163a.jpg)

I didn't grind this more than I needed to, I'll make drip rails to go on top of this weld.

Last I made a kind of rail, or profile which I cut out from a 1" by square tubing that I
had rolled to a bend in my tubing bender/roller. A rubber door seal will be mounted to this "rail".

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick163b.jpg)

It's pretty critical to get this rail thing mounted in the right position, as the rubber seal
profile I have chosen has a maximum allowance for just 3/16" between getting totally
smashed, and not sealing.
The holes along the profile will allow me to first test mount it with screws, and then weld it in place.
I'm planning on doing this the same way on the floor

Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: Essex_29 on January 15, 2023, 02:26:54 PM
New day, so said and done, I screwed the little profile into place, and tried the fit with the rubber
seal. Testing to close the door, which worked, and a piece of paper to try if it catches between
the door and the seal, which also seemed fine.
The seal is tried on in this pic.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick163c.jpg)

The trial mounting with screws-thing worked a charm, and here's the little profile welded to the
 top of the door jamb.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick163d.jpg)

On the floor, the same kind of procedure was a bit easier to do, as nothing was falling down all the time.
One door jamb done, one to go.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick163e.jpg)

Arrow points to the newly installed door seal profile on the floor. Just in case it's not self explanatory.
Did I tell you I like to make arrows?
In any case, it looks and feels better now that you can't see into the car around the door anymore
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: sammons on January 16, 2023, 11:35:42 AM
Nice progress Essex. I like they way your weatherstrips turning out. Looking good.
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: sixball on January 16, 2023, 01:49:51 PM
Great work! Next time you are in Nevada why don't you stop by and build my roadster?  ::)
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: Essex_29 on January 17, 2023, 03:45:43 PM
Thank you, sammons. Boring work though, Hope to get myself dragged out to the
garage to do the other side tomorrow.
sixball, Thanks, and uh.... I'm busy, sorry  ;D

I got back my prop shaft made from two into one piece a couple days ago. It's got a beautifully blacked
billet steel, CNC machined coupler/yoke, that fits between the output shaft on the  BMW six speed
transmission and the the front U-joint of the Dodge Ram 4WD front prop shaft. A coupling part is
then turned on a lathe to make the Dodge slip joint fit into a front half of a Chevy Caprice prop
shaft, a left over from a custom prop shaft made from the other end of it. I painted it earlier, and
now it's got new U-joints too.
The S10 rear axle has the same U-joint as the Caprice, so things work out.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick164.jpg)

This build is extremely environmentally friendly, using parts that I find on my shop
floor... Sure. Maybe better than buying a new car.
But then, who'd want a new car anyway?
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: Essex_29 on January 28, 2023, 05:12:22 PM
Finally today, I got the right hand side door opening and seal profile things done. the last one
fought me all the way, and I had to make a new one. Oh well, that's what building cars is about.

Today, though, something fun came in the mail!

(http://waasadata.com/buick/img/Rustybowtie.jpg)

Business cards and Member stickers. Very cool!
The Finnish customs has apparently taken a look see, as the envelope is ripped&taped, and came in my
post box in a plastic bag that had  "Customs" printed on it

Also today, I ordered a bunch of brake parts rom Rockauto. Not cheap to get car parts here.
Parts $124
Freight $150
VAT $67

Locally prices are just as bad:
A pair of front disc brake rotors: $65,68 at Rockauto (as ordered today)
Local speed shop: 278€

One just has to keep smiling...


Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: Essex_29 on February 06, 2023, 03:26:35 PM
The brake parts I ordered from RockyAuto came today. Ordered Saturday, and came
here (North Europe) nine days later. That's not bad at all.

(http://waasadata.com/buick/img/buick164R.jpg)

Brake upgrade,
I have a  Mustang II front end and the 9" brake rotors look tiny. They'd probably be good
enough for a normal street driven car, that's me in practice, but 11" rotors will look better in any case.
 This package contained two Granada rotors, bearings and seals, GM brake pads, and slide pins for
 the calipers. I ordered caliper brackets from ebay. I still need a bunch of stuff, but to avoid customs
 I need to keep the value of the parts in each order below 150 €uros, which is about  $155 or so.

The rotors were 32 Euros a piece in the webshop. Added freight and VAT the price on my doorstep is
90.31 Euros. so 2.75 times the original price.

Anyway, I have a 1987 Firebird Trans Am GTA brake pedal, booster and master cylinder. I will run new
 front calipers for the same car, so with the 11" Ford Granada rotors they should yield the same
braking power. I'm Running rear GM drums on the S10 axle, so I might need to go with a same
diameter G-body disc/drum master cylinder to get it all dialled in (these had the same cailpers).
This should work, getting me a brake system that has a potential to work right off the bat.
At least there's hope.
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: EDNY on February 06, 2023, 06:35:08 PM

Today, though, something fun came in the mail!

(http://waasadata.com/buick/img/Rustybowtie.jpg)

Business cards and Member stickers. Very cool!
The Finnish customs has apparently taken a look see, as the envelope is ripped&taped, and came in my
post box in a plastic bag that had  "Customs" printed on it


Customs probably opened it after seeing my last name and wondered if the President of Poland was sending you something ;)
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: Essex_29 on February 09, 2023, 02:35:41 PM
Haha, Ed, that's probably it!

I've really lost my momentum after New Years, mostly doing small work around the house, and
generally being unproductive.
32nd anniversary today, so it's not a garage night. Yesterday, though, I got a couple hours in,
working on the rear part of the floor.

I cut out a piece of sheet metal, and rolled two bends in it at a friend's garage with his bead
roller, as the floor piece was 6" too wide to fit in my sheet metal brake. I also rolled a litle
hump in the center with his english wheel to clear the shock absorber cross member.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick165.jpg)

I rolled a diamond around the little hump, this time using my own little bead roller (right pic). I cut
out another hump to clear the air bag/spring mount, and started working on a little hatch to be
able to service the air bag and lines after the floor is welded in.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick165a.jpg)

I bent a 90 in a piece of sheetmetal, drilled holes, and welded it to the wheel tub, making a 
flange to later weld the floor to.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick165b.jpg)

Also in the pic above,  the spring mount can be seen. Here it's cut down a bit, to make clearance
against the triangular humps.

And, wouldn't you know it, the triangular hums were cut in almost the right place, so I had
to cut a bit more. Nothing copious amounts of weld, grinding and paint won't hide.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick165c.jpg)

I might make a battery tray here behind the rear seat. As long as I'm not certain, I'll probably
leave this part of the floor just sitting in its place.
Still some planning to do regarding placement of Battery, air tanks and compressors (thoguhts
of these still make me cringe a bit), and the fuel tank.
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: TFoch on February 09, 2023, 04:32:56 PM
Any progress is good!  Keep at it, looking great!
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: sixball on February 09, 2023, 10:52:57 PM
You are fine. Unproductive is my fast mode. I get nothing done in a hurry.  :(
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: Rattiac on February 09, 2023, 11:36:46 PM
Great stuff here.   8)
Im always interested in how these things are sealed up. 
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: sammons on February 10, 2023, 02:04:14 PM
One piece at a time, it'll get there. Keep at it.
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: Essex_29 on March 02, 2023, 05:00:06 PM
Thanks all of you, any progress is good, I guess, but geez, inspiration has been at an all
time low and progress has really suffered.

Last time I was online, I couldn't get any pics uploaded, so I gave up, so here comes a
couple weeks worth of words and pics.

I got the rear floor done so far, holes are drilled for spotwelds, and the humps and hatches
are done, nuts welded to the underside of the floor piece. It's still not welded in, since I'm
undecided about fuel tank and battery placement.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick165d.jpg)



I got the header pipes I had ordered from a company called Botnia Bend.  12 header pipes
 bent to 62 degrees.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick166a.jpg)

This is how they're planned to mount. Flanges are still not done.  Drawn and ordered though.
The pipes will snake down through the fender and back inwards, to a collector.
Bends below the fender will be unpolished water pipe. Everything in stainless.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick166.jpg)

Six polished pipes in a row on each side. Can't wait to see it done.
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: Essex_29 on March 02, 2023, 05:37:55 PM
Using my hole cutting template thingy, I made a shifter assembly today.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick167e.jpg)

I used a bearing with a spheric outer  race to provide the needed articulation.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick167.jpg)

The sheet metal part will be welded to the floor structure. In practice
this will be covered with sheetmetal and some kind of boot when it's
done, so not really visible.
The shifter is a simple thing to do, just what I need to get up to speed again.

I've been collecting brake parts. I wanted to upgrade the 9" Mustang II disc brakes, and have
11" Granada rotors, adapters for GM calipers, brake pads, wheel bearings, seals, brake shoes,
master cylinder, rear cylinders, hoses, brake cables...


(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick168.jpg)

Looks like a shelf at a speed shop.
It will be fun to assemble all the parts when the spindles are painted.
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: EDNY on March 03, 2023, 07:16:22 AM
WOW...we need to get you your own hot rod reality TV show. ;D
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: 62131 on March 03, 2023, 08:04:38 AM
If I understand this correctly, you are using the 2 bolt flange bearing as your pivot point. Overtime the housing will wear and become loose. Even faster if using a manual transmission.
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: Essex_29 on March 04, 2023, 04:44:24 PM
Ha-ha, EDNY, that would be funny. My own reality TV show.
When writing, I try to hide my accent, but in speach... *grinning*

62131, that's correct. and I gave it half a thought, but assumed it would hold up. We'll see, I'm
not really too excited about how it looks, so it would have to be covered by a boot. I might do
something more mechanical looking some  day. Thank you for the warning anyway.

I got the whole shifty thing tacked in yesterday, along with the transmission tunnel piece that has
been missing. I tried it out, and the thing works nicely.
 Today I cut a couple strips and welded in where the gaps were too big to weld shut. Then some
grinding later it's done.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick167a.jpg)

The  shifter stalk is just a piece of 1/8" wall water pipe. It will be cut off right above its pivot
point, and in some way be connected to a very short 6" Hurst shifter and knob  that I have.
I wish I had a taller one. Gotta see if it fits into the budget someday...
Or I make my own. Time will tell.
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: chopper526 on March 05, 2023, 12:22:37 PM
Looks pretty cool to me. Is that a grease fitting on the side?
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: Essex_29 on March 05, 2023, 03:37:50 PM
chopper526 I guess it's a matter of taste. If I get a decent looking shifter lever in place
of that straight water tube it might look okay. And yes, it's a grease fitting. Maybe if it's lubed it
might hold up for a decent amount of time, we'll see.

I dug through my stash of nice things and found the stubby shifter. Turns out it's 7-1/2"
and not six inches as I said yesterday. Still too short though.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick167b.jpg)

I think I might fab up an own shifter lever, it will probably look better than trying to rat rod-punk it by
lengthening the short one and making a joint half way up.
Me finding an used Hurst shifter with the exact height and bend that I want. Cheap. Not likely to happen.

Lengthened version to the left and home made new version to the right.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick167b1.jpg)

Now if I can get some nice thick plate somewhere...

Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: sammons on March 05, 2023, 05:14:34 PM
Looking good Essex!  I swear i use to have a shifter in my bins that looked just like the left one you pictured. Have no idea what it would have fit.

I was at the metal yard one day looking around the used section. Lots of farm manufacturing around, the sell their left overs and cut off scraps there. Stumbled on to a decent size 3/8" stainless steel plate, i grabbed it just because. Yrars later i needed a special bend shifter, cut it out of that. Plas torch was struggling thru it😁 But i got it cut out, threads cut and polished up nice. Every once in a while you get lucky😆
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: 62131 on March 06, 2023, 05:04:06 PM
Essex_39. I have been selling bearings for a living for 38 years from agricultural to industrial. Just a little information where my knowledge of bearings came from. The grease fitting is there to lubricate the balls or rolling elements in other types of bearings. If you grease it, you will properly cause it more harm than good. The movement of the bearing in the housing is for shaft misalignment, I'm sure it will last for a while, but it will get easier to move overtime as it wears.
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: EDNY on March 06, 2023, 05:56:35 PM
Björn

This shifter has been collecting dust in my barn for years...you can have it for free if you can use it.

Ed
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: Essex_29 on March 07, 2023, 09:36:22 AM
Quote
Björn

This shifter has been collecting dust in my barn for years...you can have it for free if you can use it.

Ed

Ed! That's absolutely fantastic, it has to be the closest you can get to what Im looking for!
Yes please, I can use it for sure.
Let me know how I can pay you for postage and all. You already have my address.
Thank you!
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: EDNY on March 07, 2023, 03:15:27 PM
Quote
Björn

This shifter has been collecting dust in my barn for years...you can have it for free if you can use it.

Ed

Ed! That's absolutely fantastic, it has to be the closest you can get to what Im looking for!
Yes please, I can use it for sure.
Let me know how I can pay you for postage and all. You already have my address.
Thank you!

Do you want the entire shifter with the linkage sliders or just the chrome handle?  Probably easier if I send the entire unit and let you take it apart.  I'll get it packaged up.  Need to determine the best shipper, US Post office, FEDEX or DHL etc?
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: Essex_29 on March 08, 2023, 01:01:27 AM
Fedex works fine when ordering over the internet, so maybe that.
 Seems reasonable pricewise too.
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: EDNY on March 08, 2023, 06:42:21 AM
Fedex works fine when ordering over the internet, so maybe that.
 Seems reasonable pricewise too.

I need to do more research...so far I'm seeing estimates of $50-$60 :o
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: Essex_29 on March 08, 2023, 01:36:51 PM
Ouch, that's pretty steep, that's not an especially big or heavy thing either.

I got a much heavier box from R0CKAUT0 delivered for $41.99 a week ago. Funny how it works.
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: Essex_29 on March 10, 2023, 04:44:28 PM
I got a nice little package today containing a bunch of stainless flanges for my headers.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick166b.jpg)

They are a bit more than 3/8" thick, so they should be nice to work with.
 I think I have all the materials needed for the headers now, except for the
 welding rod, so I hope to get started on fabricating this weekend. Now, I just have
to figure out how to make a jig for cutting the same angle on all twelve primary tubes...
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: Essex_29 on March 11, 2023, 04:03:37 PM
I got in some quality time in the garage today, and started working on the headers. Annoyingly enough,
all the header tubes on the driver's side can't be at the same angle as there's not enough room for the
 last one, it would hit the firewall. On the right hand side it might work, but then I may do it the same
way to make it all symmetrical.

The first tube is cut and ready for tacking.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick166c.jpg)

I built a jig for cutting the primary tubes in the right angle. It took a few tries to get it right. I cut the
first and the last tube on the driver's side, and am planning on tacking them first, and then jigging
things up to ge the four in between welded to the same angle.

I ground one flange with 24, 60, 80, 280 and 320 grit and the polished it, as you can see in the above pic.
 Then I took the other eleven flanges and got them down to 80 grit, and took the rest of the evening off.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick166d.jpg)
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: EDNY on March 11, 2023, 08:53:48 PM
When you start welding I'd be curious as to the amperage setting you wind up using (TIG or MIG).
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: TFoch on March 13, 2023, 07:40:50 AM
Can't wait to see how those headers come out!
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: sammons on March 13, 2023, 02:31:41 PM
Nice!
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: Essex_29 on March 14, 2023, 03:28:47 PM
I'll keep you posted, EDNY. I'm a beginner TIG welder, and have planned to have a buddy weld the visible
welds, though.
TFoch and sammons,
can't but  hope they come out nice.

The next day I expected to continue through finer grits with the flanges. For some odd reason I decided it's time
to try if they will all fit in their places on the cylinder heads. Turned out that... they don't.
Mathematically there should be a 50% chance to get a flange the right way. turned out nine of the eleven
flanges I was working on were ground on the wrong side. What are the odds???

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick166e.jpg)

Actually all the flanges have to be the same side out, which of course lessened the probability to get them right
without checking. Anyway, I took a deep breath inside my respirator, and hit them on the other side. Today there
were just a couple left, and then I sanded them all with 180 and 230 grit. Finally a polish with a cotton buffing
wheel on the corded drill held in the bench wise.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick166f.jpg)

More polishing to do later when they're welded.
It's no mirror finish, but maybe I can get them a bit brighter later. At least they're no supposed to rust.
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: Essex_29 on March 19, 2023, 03:44:38 PM
I found that a big thick M10 washer on the lower flange bolt placed the tube on the  right height, so I could use
that as a partial jig to get the tubes centered on the flanges. Then I proceeded cutting pipes at the right angle, to
get them pointed a bit rearwards. As I explained earlier, all the tubes had to be cut in differing angles. Then
the vertical part of the tubes were angled backwards about 4 degrees.
Here the first and last tube are tacked to their respective flanges at the correct angle, then the level was taped
to them (used only as a straightedge, of course) to aid in getting the rest of the pipes tacked in to fit.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick166e1.jpg)

First I set the angle right, then measured how much too long the pipe was, and then tried to shoretn it to the
 same angle. It kinda worked. Timeconsuming at any rate.


Finally got the six driver's side primaries tacked to the flanges.  The primaries will go down through the
 fender, so less than you can see here will be visible when the fenders are done.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick166h.jpg)

I like these headers, they will not hide the fact that there's a multi cylinder engine in this ride. Big grin

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick166g.jpg)

Yes, this will visually work. The engine will look awesomely wide with the headers done on both sides.

So inspiring to get something done that really shows. There hasn't been much of this kind of things
done since newyears, so I really needed this inspiration boost.
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: TFoch on March 19, 2023, 07:03:50 PM
Wow!! Now that looks kick ass!!!
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: sixball on March 19, 2023, 07:13:35 PM
I agree!
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: chopper526 on March 20, 2023, 01:00:36 AM
Great job, that sure looks good!
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: 62131 on March 20, 2023, 09:15:50 AM
Awesome job,
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: sammons on March 21, 2023, 04:09:02 PM
Those pipes look great so far 👍
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: Essex_29 on March 24, 2023, 06:04:12 PM
Thank you all for the positive comments!

It took me four evenings to cut the six pipes for the right hand side and tack them. When I got up
to speed, the three last primaries took about one hour each to get cut right. As I don't have any
extra tubes, I had to be patient and shorten them little by little. I had already cut the very first
one too short, but luckily that was the rear most one on the driver's side, and the front ones
are about 3/4" shorter, so I could just make it the front most one.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick166j.jpg)

I like how the over the frame headers make the engine visually wide, because even if it's a 12 cylinder
engine, it's small and narrow, just 304-ish cubic inches (3.31" bore, 2.95" stroke) with a 60 degree bank angle.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick166i.jpg)

I probably mentioned it before, those electric Quardrajets are there just to plug the holes in the intake.
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: EDNY on March 24, 2023, 09:32:58 PM
FYI If anyone needs quadrajet parts..I have a collection of them as parts units.
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: Essex_29 on March 25, 2023, 04:48:08 PM
I like the Quadrajet carbs, A couple cars that I had ran great with them. They're pretty big
too, I heard they are something upwards to 800 cfm, so good for some performance stuff, even,
if you get them sorted. I was going to use them on this build, but my intake is so short that two
of them would have looked out of place.

 I started my day removing the exhaust primaries and loading them in my trusty rusty Chevy wagon
and hauled my load to a friend who's better at TIG welding than I am. I thought they looked so
nice, being so many, that I just had to snap a pic of them.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick166k.jpg)

The very first parts I bought (several years ago) for my next hot rod project was a couple Brittish
oil bath air cleaners. I like the cool stickers, and will try to get something similar for them
when they're painted.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick169a.jpg)

I cut the throats off of the air cleaners and made a couple standard bases to fit the Edelbrock
carbs. Sadly they are too close together, so I had to cut about an inch off the side of each  air
cleaner. I'll weld them together to a unit. They're fully functional now, but I'll use paper
elements if I can find any that I can make fit.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick169.jpg)

I think the oil bath filters will boost the oldtimey engine look that I am going for.
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: EDNY on March 26, 2023, 08:28:16 AM
I like the direction you are going in from top to bottom!
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: Essex_29 on March 28, 2023, 02:00:32 AM
Thank you EDNY, though it's all a matter of taste.
 
Here's my day in a nutshell:
 (weirdly enough, I posted this on Sunday night, but it disappeared later, so here we go again)

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick169c1.jpg)

The rear carb here is one that I'm intending to use on this engine, a 500 cfm #1404. The front one is
a 600 cfm, from an Olds engine I have. Still some shopping to do.
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: chopper526 on March 29, 2023, 08:25:12 AM
Very sharp looking, great idea.
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: Essex_29 on March 30, 2023, 03:00:00 PM
Thank you chopper 526. I have a thing for those old oil bath air cleaners. I had
something similar on my Essex the last couple summers, an old oil bath air cleaner
 that I found in a junk yard in Canada.

Here's the first try at making a flat merge collector. There will be four of these three-into-one
collectors, where the primaries turn back in under the frame. They will continue in a short, maybe 4"
pipe, that goes from flat to a round 2-1/2" collector flange.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick166l.jpg)

There's not enough room for round collectors under the frame. That's beside the point, really, this is much less work.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick166l1.jpg)

This would be much easier to do...
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: TFoch on April 03, 2023, 07:12:10 AM
I like the air cleaners! Nice work!
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: Essex_29 on April 10, 2023, 01:25:21 PM
Thank you TFoch. I'm happy with them, especially the fact that they still look
like two air cleaners to me.

After a week long fight with the flu I finally got to buy the car I have been searching for the last
months. It's time to upgrade my daily.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/caprice84.jpg)

This one's four years newer than the black wagon I've been driving for almost ten years now. This
new one is now my eleventh full size boxy body GM car. I like them. Obviously.

I got a few hours in the shop, and got work on the first collector started.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick166n.jpg)

I fought with the stainless, and even at 1mm thickness (40 thou) it was hard work, and I feel that
thicker material would be  the way to go. So I'll try making them in two parts, probably, and thicker material.

I got three primaries merged.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick166m.jpg)

It took me some thinking and planning to get this done. I don'treally TIG, so this was a challenge,
but it seems it can be done. Just four more to go.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick166o.jpg)

An extra cylinder head would make this work much easier...
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: chopper526 on April 11, 2023, 08:34:12 AM
For a guy that doesn't really TIG, that sure looks pretty good to me. That is going to be sweet when you are done.

Let me ask you, and the group a question: my 67' Mustang has a set of chrome Motorsport headers on it that I installed 20+ years ago. They are looking beat now and I want to replace them, so what do you guys think chrome, stainless or ceramic coated, and why?
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: 62131 on April 11, 2023, 01:00:41 PM
Me I would go coated, chrome will rust, stainless will turn blue. The coated headers I have on my 32 still look like they did when I installed them. 
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: sammons on April 12, 2023, 10:20:47 AM
Essex, looking good on the headers. I've had my eye on the same color/trim mid 80s wagon with Cragar SS wheels here in town. It got away last month and a Ford pick up showed up in it's place😕

Chopper, stainless lasts, but usually top dollar. Chrome seems to have a shelf life but cheaper of the three, and betting shorter life than your 20yr old ones. Ceramic good choise for longevity. Me, lol.... i'm a thrift guy. I'd get steel and paint, spend money saved on other things😁
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: Essex_29 on April 14, 2023, 01:18:52 AM
Thank you chopper526 and sammons, for the nice words.

Looking forward to get back to work, productivity has suffered
from a lot if chores and also, as I had a bunch of friends over on
wednesday nigt, I put a bit of effort into tidying up the garage.

I don’t know if attachments will show up, but here’s my daily
beater since almost ten years. It looks decent, but it’s a rust
bucket, salted roads have eaten away a good chunk of the
frame and right hand side of the body.

Regarding the headers, I,d probably vote for the ceramic coated.
I only had one pair of new headers, and I had to modify them to fit.
In any case I’d avoid anything chromed, I’d assume they will rust.
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: sixball on April 14, 2023, 12:06:48 PM
I see, you have to have friends to have a clean shop.  :o  Maybe if I was a nicer guy I'd have some friends and a shop I could work in.  ::)
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: Essex_29 on April 16, 2023, 02:29:32 PM
Yep, sixball, you gotta have a reason for cleaning the garage  ;)

Last night I got all the ends of the primaries made (nine more), the ones going into the collector.
Some welds look almost decent. Not like looking good, but they will probably not fall off.

(http://waasadata.com/buick/img/buick166p.jpg)

I guess my rod project has run into a s tand still. I got my new wheels home today, and am
going to start working on it to get it out of the way.
 What's better than a wagon? Two wagons!

(http://waasadata.com/buick/img/Cap1.jpg)

On jackstands now, I'll have to get the engine out and get the rear crank seal replaced, and
as the PO has started the project by removing in fron of the engine, I'm going to do the maintenance
out of the car. I so not looking forward to getting everything mounted, with all the parts lying in the
back of hte wagon, probably a few pounds of fasteners missing. Luckily I've worked on
a few of these before.

(http://waasadata.com/buick/img/Cap3.jpg)

The sun coming along the side of hte body makes ten years of collected dust show up. Pic taken
an hour or two after the previous pic, where it looks prery decent. And no, it didn't sag that
bad, it's the panoramic effect of my phone camera.

I think it's funny how boxy GM cars looked the same for so long. The Chevrolets hardly changed
in 11 years. Compare that to what happened between 1954 and '65, for example.

Biggest change the boxy years is the dash.

(http://waasadata.com/buick/img/Cap2.jpg)

 ... and even then, if you haven't seen one recently, you wouldn't probably notice the difference

Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: Essex_29 on July 28, 2023, 03:15:41 PM
Not much useful happening here as usual during summer. Lots to do. House needs paiting, still working
on the Caprice, mounted a hitch today, and still have to connect the electricals. We have to have orange turn
signals on trailers, so they have to be run from the front blinkers. The brake lights too, so I ran a four in one 
cable all the way to the front.

I just got in a day to work on the headers. I decided that a jig is  the way to go, so I measured the spacing
 and drilled six holes in a short piece of H-beam to bolt the primaries to. Then (after I took the pic) I welded the
primary tubes to eachother, and made the parts for the collector. Stainless is very hard to form, maybe I
should have gone for thinner material, I'm making them from pieces of 1/16" wall tubing. As this is the
first one of four, I might still try to find some thinner stainless sheet metal.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick166q.jpg)

Late one evening I got inspired to draw new stickers for the air filters. I beleive they are from some kind of
Brittish trucks, but since I'm planning on making the engine look somewhat American, I changed some
of the text to make it look like the filters are American made. Just for shi#!s and giggles.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick168.jpg)

I will have some stickers made sometime down the line

Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: TFoch on July 28, 2023, 03:57:14 PM
Amazing work on the label!  Looks great!
Headers are coming along!
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: Essex_29 on August 07, 2023, 04:34:25 PM
Thank you TFoch.

I've been working on the tank some lately. Fist, where to put it. Second, how to make
 it fit, and still not be in the way. Third, how big it needs to be to take abot 20 gallons
of gas, and then draw plans for it. It's a process.
That done, I drew the parts onto a bigger than usual (49"x98") sheet of steel. I decided
 to cut out and make the end pieces first, and that was a good idea, since I need to
adjust the big sheet slightly as the bottom of the end pieces ended up being about
5/32" oversize.

The top, front, bottom and back side drawn out in one piece.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick170.jpg)

End pieces laid down on the big sheet. A really great thing I did the side pieces first, as
I had made a mistake drawing the big piece out. Much easier to adjust the
measurements now, and cut to fit.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick170a.jpg)

My son is a maths and physics teacher, and I had him chack my calculating. The tank
capacity will be 21 gallons and change. I was a few ounces off.
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: Essex_29 on August 10, 2023, 04:38:24 PM
I used a friend's sheet metal brake to bring the big sheet into shape. Seen here mocked
up with the end pieces.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick170b.jpg)

Also, I brought home a fuel tank sender, a gauge, and materials for making reinforcement
plates that will go inside the tank, threaded to take the screws from the sender unit and
for the the still to be made lid for fuel feed-, return- and breather lines.
Feed will be 3/8", return and breather 5/16".
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: TFoch on August 10, 2023, 04:53:57 PM
Nice!  Looking forward to seeing the finished piece!
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: Essex_29 on August 19, 2023, 04:29:02 PM
Thank you TFoch Some other things to do before welding it, so we'll see how it all turns out.

Fuel pick up, vent and return lines in a home made lid. Inside the tank there are thicker pieces of sheet
metal, which are threaded for the screws.  I made gaskets for all openings from 2mm thick fuel proof rubber

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick170h.jpg)

   
The fuel tank trial fitted. It does fit with only a few fractions of an inch to spare.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick170c.jpg)

A Volvo fuel cap has been in the inventory for a few years. With the Volvo logo groud off, it looks like it might work.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick170g.jpg)

After drilling a 3" hole with a hole saw in the back of the car, the new fuel cap could be tried out.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick170d.jpg)

Braces (arrows) were welded to the rear body structure for the fuel tank to stand on, and to which the fuel
tank hold down straps will be bolted. The hole for the filler tube at the top in this pic

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick170e.jpg)

Finally, one of the last pieces of the new floor could be welded in. This piece of sheet
metal has been waiting to be welded for six months, while the tank and structure has been
planned, and other work has been done.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick170f.jpg)

The fuel tank will stand on the floor, with pieces of rubber between it and the floor, on top
of the new braces. Bolts or maybe nuts will be welded in, so hold down straps can hold the tank secure.
The filler neck is still in the planning stage.
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: Essex_29 on August 28, 2023, 03:05:44 PM
Still working on the tank. The filler neck took a whole lot of planning to figure out how
to make it sturdy enough to use (you got to push the flipper latch pretty dang hard to
get it to open), and in which order things had to be done to make it possible to
weld everything  and so that it can be disassembled afterwards.

Filler tube tacked to the body here, and cut off where a piece of rubber tubing will
connect it to the fuel tank.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick170i.jpg)

Straps made from 1/8" x 1-1/4" flat bar.
They're bolted down with 3/8" UNC at the top, and 5/16" UNC bolts through the
braces under the floor.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick170j.jpg)

The other half of the filler neck baked onto the tank pretty hot with the MIG.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick170l.jpg)

Flanges around the whole tank makes it pretty easy to just fuse the parts together with
the TIG torch.
I had some issues with the weld bubbling and acting up, but new (expensive = better?) tungsten, a
gas lens and more gas flow finally helped, so the welds look decently solid now.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick170k.jpg)
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: TFoch on August 28, 2023, 06:27:17 PM
Looking great!
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: sixball on August 28, 2023, 10:41:03 PM
So nice!
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: sammons on August 29, 2023, 11:17:11 AM
Nice fab work and your welds look great 👍
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: Essex_29 on August 30, 2023, 03:14:37 PM
Thank you TFoch, sixball and sammons. I take care to take pics of the nicest parts of
my welds ~grinning~

I took a day off from the tank work. As it's going towards fall and I have planned to get my A-arms
and other details sandblasted and painted during summer, I had to invent some kind of
exhaust fan for my blasting cabinet. I tried using my garage vac to suck out
the dust, but even via my home made cyclone, the filter just clogged up.

Last night I had a a light bulb moment, and so today I bought the cheapest leaf blower I
could find, and some drain pipe, for the grand total of about $50. Then got home and cut
and heated plastic parts until I got the mismatched parts to fit together.
This is how it looks now. the white arrow shows where the dust is blown out. I'll connect
it with a 3" hose (thin walled plastic with a meal spiral holding the shape) that
in turn is hoseclamped to a pipe that goes through the garage wall.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buickbc.jpg)

I sealed some seams with caulk, so I'll do some test blasting tomorrow.
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: sixball on August 30, 2023, 08:01:27 PM
I haven't used mine in years. but I successfully adapted an old shop vac. My problem is our solar system won't run a decent compressor.
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: Essex_29 on September 10, 2023, 09:25:45 AM
sixball, I used a shop vac too, it worked ok, but even when I used my cyclone, the dust
went through and clogged up the filter in no time. Almost all vacuums and all fans for that matter,
uses the air they suck to cool the motor. A leaf blower doesn't, so I am counting on getting some
lifetime out of it in this use.

It got dusty in the garage, and the only way to not get vacuum all the way inside the garage was to
put the leaf blower outside the wall. Now it works great, and as a bonus, it's much quieter too. Now if I
could only get it to run a bit slower, the vacuum is so intense, that it's hard to bend the gloves.
The leaf blower is turned on along with the work light with the switch on the side of the
 blasting cabinet.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buickbc1.jpg)

The fuel tank is done, but after leak testing it with dish soap and water, it started rusting. I
ground it with 180 grit on the D/A and sprayed on some red primer. I'm going to paint it black
when I have some more items to paint.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick170m.jpg)
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: sixball on September 10, 2023, 10:36:10 AM
The tank looks good. The weed blower is a good idea and takes up less space than my old shop vac. Mine is mounted outside so noise & dust in the shop was not a problem. Yours looks like a net setup. Could a light dimmer switch be wired in to control the blower speed?
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: Essex_29 on September 11, 2023, 02:27:31 PM
Thank you sixball. I'm going to use a transformer that's adjustable from 0 to 230 Volts, it can
take 8 Amperes, and works something  like an antique stick welder. A big hunkin transformer with a
 big wheel on top for adjusting the voltage. I'm assuming this will bring the rpms down, just have
 to hope the motor won't burn up from it. It has a really small impeller, so I think it will be fine.

Later last night I painted the thank and it's hold down straps with black industrial two part paint
and a roller. I felt too lazy
to start cleaning a spray gun and all that, and the tank won't be visible behind the back seat anyway.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick170n.jpg)

I just love two part paint, still after painting quite a few cars in my life, even working in a collision
repair shop for a year, I'm faschinated by the way the paint feels the next day. Like glass, opposed
 to normal brush on paint that feels almost tacky the next day.
Anyway, I'll pour in a quart or two of  two sroke oil in the tank, and slosh it around for rust
protection, and put the tank in storage.
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: sammons on September 15, 2023, 07:38:58 PM
Tank looks great Essex!
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: Essex_29 on September 27, 2023, 04:10:46 AM
Thank you sammons.

Tank final trial fitted with straps and rubber mounting hardware (should be rubber software  ;D)

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick170o.jpg)

Time for the steering shaft.
I cut a hole in the firewall, and was figuring I can bolt a hatch with a bearing for the steering
shaft to it when I'm done.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick171.jpg)

There's nt much room for the brake and throttle pedals, which had me move the steering
shaft far left. Now we have a huge hole in the firewall. (Below)

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick171a.jpg)

I'm holding a make shift steering shaft with my finger here, made from water tubing, the u-joint
will be at about where the tube ends. I'll have a real shaft machined soon.

The brake pedal is a modified one from a 1987 Trans Am that I parted out over a dacade ago.
I had to modify it to sit on the firewall, and also I cut down the pedal, and straightened it
out, to avoid it hitting the steering column.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick171b.jpg)
The ghost image of the pedal is approxemately how it looked before I straightened it.
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: sixball on September 27, 2023, 11:21:44 AM
Tight spaces make good work harder. You are doing just fine.  ;D
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: Essex_29 on September 30, 2023, 05:00:22 PM
Thanks sixball. I sure hope I'm getting it. Since I made the transmissiontunnel I've
been wondering if this is going to work. And how.

I got the steering shaft extension today from a friend of mine who did the turning and milling.
It's a Mercedes specific D-D size at some 17.6mm.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick171d.jpg)

The green arrow shows the original end piece, and where it has been cut off.
I've drilled holes in the upper original part, so there will be four plug welds for added security.

I brought home some material today, and made the brake reverser crank today from 10mm
Sheet. A bit more than 3/8" thick.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick171c.jpg)

The hole was a bit tricky. Over and inch in diameter, and has to fit over that weirdly shaped
pressed tube. The plan is to make some kind of 90 degree under dash mounted master cylinder.
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: TFoch on October 07, 2023, 07:41:50 PM
Nice work!  I like how you are making available parts to you work!
Tom
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: Essex_29 on October 08, 2023, 02:52:13 PM
Thank you TFoch, I had this brake booster and pedal assembly from an '87 TransAm. It's been
warming a shelf for 12 years, so, even if it was angled weird, I decided to use it.

Plans changed many times when I was planning and pondering. It took me a few days to get to the
point when I decided this has to work.
I turned the brake thing backwards (looked like a boomerang made out of 10mm thick material in my
last post).This gave me a 32 degree angle to work off. Also the brake booster sits at a 13 degree angle
upwards. I was planning on mounting it horizontally, but the G-body master cylinder I ordered
earlier has an angled lid so if I would have mounted it horizontally, it wouln't have held much fluid.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick171e.jpg)

I wasn't feeling confident at all, when I started working on the brackets for the angle thingy, that
turns the movement from the brake pedal 90 degrees, and is angled 13 degrees in one
direction and 32 in the other... Overwhelming might be a suitable word.
I made a cardboard template, and started cutting and drilling. It semed to do the trick, so after that the
rest of the work wasn't too hard.
Today I got the whole thing almost ready to weld to the firewall. I made bolt on/weld on brackets, so the
assembly  can be removed with four bolts. I'll  probably make a bracket with  one or two bolts at the
dash. The brake booster and master will also get a mount, so they'll hang off the center of the dash.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick171f.jpg)

The whole thing is a monstrosity, but I think it will work. The movement at the brake booster is
the same as when originally mounted in the TransAm.
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: Rattiac on October 09, 2023, 12:00:23 AM
Like reverse engineering a van mc/booster.  😎
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: Essex_29 on October 09, 2023, 02:47:39 PM
What kind of van, Rattiac? I have owned just one van, a '77 Beauville G30, and it
had a conventional straight forward brakebooster/master cylinder.
I know there are under dash 90 degree brake master assemblies from among others Kugel,
but I'm cheap and those things get expensive when they're in Europe. If I order a part that
costs $300 from USA, I have to pay the freight, and then 24% tax on both the part and the freight,
so it's easily $500 or more when it's here.
As an example $31 Granada  brake discs from RockAuto cost me 90 euros all paid, and that's a bit
 more than $95 US.

Actually, the main reason for making it myself, is I want to be able to make my own parts. Or is it, really?
 Being cheap all my life has gotten me into this mindset, I guess. And I like to lean back and look at the
 thing after the fact and tell my self: "I did it!"
*insert silly smiley*
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: sammons on October 09, 2023, 07:25:15 PM
That's quite the mechanical wizardry you got there. Looks like it'll work fine.

I've seen that setup on vans also. My buddy bought a '74 Ford fancy low mile Econoline passenger van, it had that setup for sure. I've seen it on others, just can't remember makes or years.

I'm like you, use whats availible vs buying new. Nice when you get fabbed up and it works. Although... i don't like that part of the build. I get a headache thinking it through. I use to have several freinds good at engineering/fab on mechanical things. I was always happy to trade body/paint work. 😁 Same with engine building, i can do it but would trade for body work any day!
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: Rattiac on October 09, 2023, 07:45:10 PM
What kind of van, Rattiac?

It was a 70's dodge van.  I was at the junkyard a week ago and noticed it trying to find a manly horn from anything old. Slim pickings. I could pull it for ya. 
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: Essex_29 on October 11, 2023, 09:17:09 AM
Thank you Rattiac, for the offer, but I have what I need now, my contraption seems to be working fine.
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: Essex_29 on October 11, 2023, 09:59:05 AM
Last night I made a hanger at the master to booster bolts, and could anchor the whole thing
with vise grips. It looks massive, and needed a cut out in the dash plate. That's a big booster.
But I had it so why not use it...

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick171g.jpg)


I'm going to put a sturdy brace, probably a square tube of some sort, between the A-pillars to
help support the dash itself, and also the steering clumn drop and brake pedal assembly.
The dash design will be a bit like in a forties or fifties car with defroster vents on top, and a
big center section for the gauges. Hopefully this will hide most of the technical parts above
the pedals.

Thank you sammons, I like to be able to use what I have, and what's readily available.
 And, I guess, contrary to you, I enjoy problem solving, and you get a lot of that building an
odd rod like this with odd parts.
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: Essex_29 on October 19, 2023, 02:29:33 PM
Since the steering shaft and pedals needs to be made together to really get the most of
the available space, and I have some parts in for machining, I took a break and welded
the gas filler neck mount tight against the body. I want it pretty much odor tight, so that
 any spilled gas doesn't smell inside the car.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick170p.jpg)

The break pedal is from a car with an automatic transmission, so I just cut it down a bit
earlier. Today I cut the pedals out of a junked Saab 9000 and welded just the brake
pedal "blade" the part that the pedal rubber pad attaches to, to the TransAm pedal I
 have been working on.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick171h.jpg)

Then, as I happened to have a brake pedal from a seventies Dodge, I cut it, so that
the clutch pedal from the  Saab fit, welded the parts toghether, and the overall length of the pedal is now the
same as the GM brake pedal.
The throw of the clutch pedal will be about 5-1/2" with the 35mm total
movement of the bmw clutch master.
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: sixball on October 19, 2023, 08:37:06 PM
You are a wizard!
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: sammons on October 20, 2023, 04:21:10 PM
Nice work! One step closer, so many of those🙂
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: TFoch on October 20, 2023, 10:36:53 PM
I like how you make the parts you have work for you, brilliant!
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: Essex_29 on October 23, 2023, 04:30:41 AM
Thank you sixball, sammons and TFoch for the supportive comments!

I worked a bit on the Dodge brake mount and made a flange for mounting the master. When the
actual brake pedal and its mechanism is mounted, I'll make the cluch pedal fit in the car
and maybe make it a part of the brake pedal mount.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick171la.jpg)

I cut down an eighties Buick steering colum with tilt as small and short as I could.
Funny that you still see a bit of the ignition lock where I ground most of it  away.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick171i.jpg)

I had a friend turn and mill the missing part for my steering shaft.  The new part here welds
into the column, and the other end fits my Mercedes U-joint.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick171j.jpg)

This is now welded, so the steering just needs a bit of finageling to make it fit and work, and
then some brackets and mounts.
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: Essex_29 on October 25, 2023, 03:36:52 PM
I posted a pic of my Essex in the gallery today. It's obviously not a GM product, so if it's
inappropriate, anyone in charge here, take it down.

I welded the new part I had had made a few days ago to the steering shaft of the cut
down tilt column, and hung a ?56 Chevy steering wheel from the roof in about the right
position. I take all the ergonomic measurements off my '84 Caprice, since it's
pretty comfortable.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick171m.jpg)

Then started working on a new piece of square tubing that will go between the A-pillars.
Level taped to the tube to get it right.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick171n.jpg)

After the tube was in (it's decently sturdy at 1-5/8" square with 1/8" walls), I started
mocking up a column drop from 1/8" plate.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick171o.jpg)

The column drop turned out to be about right, so I might be able to actually use it.

Some time in the future the tubing and the other unsightly stuff will be hidden by a later era style dash.
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: sammons on October 26, 2023, 04:25:36 PM
Your getting it there 👍 Comfort is a must on the steering wheel.

Essex, i have to ask... what are your plans to patch the skin where you removed that big ugly Tumor they call a turn indicater lever?  I've cut and filled pleanty of columns where i removed shift lever/ing switches on, but never on the big "lets see how many switches we can stuff into the turn lever"  thing😁
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: Essex_29 on October 28, 2023, 04:57:07 PM
That's right, sammmons, I've sat in quite a few rods that have the steering whe way too
 far forward. It really looks quite odd when you're building a rod, and put the steeringwheel where
 it's decently comfortable. When I built the Essex, I measured off my '90 Mercedes coupe, where
the sitting position was about as low as I planned to have it. It worked nicely, and the steering wheel
and pedals were really comfortable. This time I don't have the body channelled at all, and the
 roof isn't chopped, so the only reason the seat is lower than original is because of the 3+ degree
forward rake, which in effect makes the windshield lower.
Regarding the column, I'm not sure what to do with it, but I've been thinking of wrapping it with a
piece of thin shetmetal, with a join on the left side, where I'm planning on mounting some kind of
turn signal stalk. It's an ugly monster of a steering column, but I needed the tilt function to
make everything fit.

A couple days ago I worked some more on the column drop and could bolt the column to the new
tube between the A-pillars. It sits right now, the steeringwheel is nicely aligned about where it
needs to. I also had the brake pedal in the right position, and tacked it in good, with nice beefy
tack welds.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick171p.jpg)

Right when I felt content with the result and was done, I came to think that I can alter the angle
of the steeringcolumnl to get some more room for the gas pedal. Oh well, I'll do that tomorrow...

Because reasons, it took me a couple days to get back to it, and today I cut the column loose off
of its drop mount, moved the nails in the two by eight on the floor 13/16" to
the left, and turned the column a bit so the steering shaft points a bit to the left, and the wheel
is again straight. Using the tilt column really is a saver. Then I welded the column to its drop mount
again in its new position.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick172.jpg)

I made a colum extension from thin (5/64"") wall one by two tubing all the way to the firewall, so now it's sturdy.
Then I ground away the big tacks on the brake pedal mount, and moved the whole thing to the left as
much as the U-joint was moved. Tacked in again, now In the right position. The result is a little bit more
room, which is sorely needed.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick171r.jpg)

This is in principle how I "misused" the tilt function by rotating it.

Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: Essex_29 on October 29, 2023, 03:11:55 PM
A good day in the shop today. I made the final mount for the brake pedal assembly.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick172a.jpg)

Then started working on the clutch pedal. The Dodge brake pedal mount is now hung
 in two mounts, one still to make and weld to the firewall

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick172b.jpg)

I cut away some of the old mounting points and drilled holes for the last mount, then
welded the clutch master mount I made earlier to the top of the pedal mount.
I was able to use the eyelet from the Dodge push rod (Arrow),and welded it to an M8 bolt
that I cut the head off of. Then the bolt for the pushrod that goes with the eyelet, for
a slop free installation.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick172c.jpg)

Some cutting and grinding still  to do to make it all look a bit prettier, then into the blasting
 cabinet and then paint.
It finally feels like the project is moving, making of the brake assembly and the positioning
of the steering wheel and pedals has taken forever.
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: TFoch on October 29, 2023, 05:38:06 PM
I like it!  Thanks for posting how you're making all these parts work.  Valuable information!
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: Essex_29 on November 03, 2023, 05:04:23 PM
Thank you TFoch I'm happy if someone takes their time to read my ramblings, and
even more so if someone can be inspired from what I do.

Next up was to get the steering shaft done. I got a bearing that fits the shaft, and cut and
drilled a flange from 1/8" plate, then cut a piece of 19 gauge
sheetmetal, wrapped it around the flange and welded the two together Some grinding
later I was done for that day.
 
(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick173.jpg)

The next day I cut a piece of sheet metal, and cut a hole that the part above fit through.
The day after that I cut that piece of sheetmetal until it fit in the exact right position in
the huge hole I had cut in the firewall.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick173a.jpg)

The steering bearing mount is now tacked to the new sheetmetal piece.
Lots of fun per square foot at this time...
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: sixball on November 04, 2023, 01:14:24 PM
The deep thought going into this build along with the repurposing of pieces already out there are only part of what makes this stand out. There are masterful skills involved too. Thanks for sharing this.
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: Essex_29 on November 04, 2023, 05:33:22 PM
Thank you very much sixball for the nice words.

I got the steering shaft bearing mount welded in and the hole I had cut in the firewall
repaired. It took some planning to get this done in the right order so that I had room
to grind and such before it got too crowded.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick173b.jpg)

It's fun to spray on some primer, things start looking done.
I put my leafblower fan to work and sandblasted the clutch pedal mount. Then painted it
all satin black.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick174.jpg)

First bolts to get torqued with nyloc nuts on this build!
I then mounted the pedal in its place just for fun, it's coming out along with everyting else
when the body is coming off the frame in a few weeks.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick174a.jpg)

The brake master still hadn't been test mounted, and of course there was some cutting to
be done. The cut was made as high as possible, and the result is a 3" space above the
master brake fluid container for filling fluid, so no issue with that.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick174b.jpg)

The cluch master has a remote container, I guess that one's just going to protrude through
the top of the dash for easy access
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: Rattiac on November 05, 2023, 10:40:04 AM
Watching intently.  Going to be ordering a column for mine soon.
Not sure I want a ididit column,  I've seen some failures out there.
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: Essex_29 on November 12, 2023, 03:27:37 PM
Rattiac, I'd go with some oem column if there's something that would fit your need.
Aftermarket stuff seems never to be as good quality as oem, though it migt be hard to find
something that is easy to adapt...

I stood on my knees drawing a hatch on the floor of the Buick. Just as I was reaching for the
grinder to cut the hole, it hit me that if I make a battery compartment there, the  exhaust will
have to hang low under the frame, and with my forward rake it would look real silly seen from behind.
 So I looked aound and figured I can put the battery under the dash instead. To make the
battery somewhat easy to get in and out, it needed some kind of "elevator" thing. So I made
one. Now the battery can be lowered about eight or nine inches, so that it will be possible to
get at it when the dash is done.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick175.jpg)
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: sammons on November 14, 2023, 11:23:33 AM
Cool as hell idea there Essex, i really like that.
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: sixball on November 14, 2023, 11:45:22 AM
Good Idea. What is involved in raising it? What keeps it in place?
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: Essex_29 on November 14, 2023, 02:54:10 PM
Thank you sammons and sixball.
There are four links, bottom ones are attached to the firewall, top ones to the dash tube...
It's impossible to explain, I should make a sketch...

Today I found a spoon gas pedal in a bit of square tubing.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick176.jpg)

I cut out the pieces from a side of a big tube with 3/16" walls, hammered the oval part
to a curved shape, and cut out the other part. Some filing was also involved.
I'm not really a fan of this style pedal, but there's no room for a fifties standing style pedal.
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: Essex_29 on November 16, 2023, 03:11:14 PM
I got a piece of axle stock 3/8" diameter and bearings to go
with it, made a bracket and tacked it to the firewall.
To the axle I tacked the pedal and the arm that goes up to the throttle linkage.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick176a.jpg)

This is what the pedals look like now. Sitting there pushing the pedals it all seems
 pretty good, s? the bearing bracket was finish welded.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick176b.jpg)

The final bracket that helps keep the brake booster and brake master from shaking
 too much is done, and just needs to be welded. That should make the pedals done,
just the throttle linkage through the firewall and on to the carbs to do.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick174c.jpg)
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: sammons on November 16, 2023, 05:40:52 PM
Nice, clean fab and install work there Essex👍
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: TFoch on November 19, 2023, 06:38:27 PM
Nice work!
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: sixball on November 20, 2023, 11:56:21 AM
I agree! When can I send you my roadster?  ;D
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: Essex_29 on November 25, 2023, 05:32:33 PM
Thank you for your comments!

sixball, you asked about my battery mechanism. I drew a sketch to
explain how it works. Here's the principle, same thing on the othe side of
the battery.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick177a.jpg)

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick177b.jpg)

Obviously the battery itself is bolted to the tray.
This works, but to get the battery up, I need to use both hands and a knee, so
some kind of hook or latch thing is needed, so still in the R&D stage.
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: Rattiac on November 26, 2023, 11:21:54 PM
Cool ideas going on here.  8)
I've been wanting to build something like this to hide my radio/stereo under the dash and pop it down when it's being used.
Blueprints in my head.  Just gotta figure out how im gonna bend the sheet metal in one piece.
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: Essex_29 on December 06, 2023, 12:30:25 PM
That's a cool idea, Rattiac. A stereo not visible, and not int he glove box either. Great idea.

I'm planning to finish up the body and get the work done to it that has to be done, before lifting it off
the frame for paint.
Paint the frame and bottom of the body, that is.
So checking off items from the to do list, I made the rear most part of the floor, there was a 2" slice
missing. Then I noticed that I hadn't remembered to make the last bit in the middle of the
Transmission tunnel.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick178.jpg)

The part required some metal shaping, that's why I hadn't done it before. I'm an expert procrastinator.

Today it's Finland's independence day, so I'm off from work. I decided to do something I've been thinking
of since I started this project, namely tidying up the front end of the frame rails.
They looked a bit wobbly, so I started by hammering the flanges with two big hammers, the bigger one
used as a makeshift dolly. The material is about 1/8" thick steel, so it took some
beating.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick179.jpg)

I shortened the top and bottom flanges about 5/8" hoping that would give me the
 look I am going for, then capped the end of the frame with a piece of 1/8" by 1-3/8" sheetmetal, cut like
a flat bar, and bent around a pipe.
Some welding and grinding later they're done.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick179a.jpg)

I still have to do the E-brake, and plan holes in the firewall for the heater hoses and ignition wires. I'm
planning on mounting the two coils inside of the firewall Then take a bunch of measurements for a
baseline ride height. It will be exciting to see if I can get the body off, without dropping it...
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: sixball on December 06, 2023, 06:41:26 PM
So many good ideas in play here. The battery hider is really cool. Thanks for the drawing.
 I've been doing a lot of battery lifting. I'm replacing the 12 L16 batteries for our soar system,  well over 100 pounds each.
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: sammons on December 07, 2023, 02:10:30 PM

I've been wanting to build something like this to hide my radio/stereo under the dash and pop it down when it's being used.
[/quote

Rattiac, i did that for my buddies 32 ford p.u.  I built a contoured tray that matched the underside dash curve that flipped down like a glove box. Worked out great, can't hardly see it when its up.

Essex, great job on the frame horns. Looks real nice.
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: TFoch on December 07, 2023, 06:01:50 PM
Floor came out great! Nice work!
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: Essex_29 on December 10, 2023, 01:45:56 PM
Thank you sixball, sammons and TFoch.

Thursday evening I mocked up the fenders and a runningboard and took a pic of the result. Some photoshopping
later, here's kind of a preview of what it might look like when it's done.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick180a.jpg)

Yesterday I was cleaning up some of the mess I've made over the last week or two, and decided that now is as
good time as ever to take the body off the frame. 
I unbolted the frame from the garage floor and begun removing doors, unbolting the body etcetera.
The engine hoist is useful here.


(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick180b.jpg)

Today a buddy came and helped me move the body from the frame to a svivel wheel dolly I made
 earlier, so it has something easily moveable to stand on while I'm working on the frame.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick180c.jpg)

I removed the carbs, intake and exhaust primaries...  It's surprising how small the whole thing
looks now.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick180d.jpg)


When I get the engine and transmission out, I'll turn the frame over and do some final welding
that I didn't want to do upside down earlier. Then a few modifications are going to be done, to
repair at least one mistake, and a change in the plans.
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: sammons on December 11, 2023, 10:47:53 AM
Mock up looks great! Most people have no idea the amount of work "put it together, take it apart" we go thru to get it all to fit propper.
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: Essex_29 on December 13, 2023, 03:09:52 PM
That's right, sammons.  Until now just a handful of bolts are tightened, not meant to come off
again. All of those are on the pedal assemblies, which themselves aren't mounted to the body. Good
thing one likes wrenching on cars.

After a couple days break, I pulled the engine and transmission from the frame. As the engine and
transmission aren't meant to work together, I had to cut a pice out of the bellhousing for the starter.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick181.jpg)

Now everything fits. Barely. I ran a feelergauge around the end of the starter, and a .010" just fit
on the underside. Good thing, I didn't have to try to get the transmission and engine fit together more
than once.

So now the frame is bare. I found a pic of the frame right before I got it sandblasted a couple years
ago, and if you look closely, you might see a difference. I'm looking forward to taking pics of the
finished frame with engine, transmission, suspension, wheels, prop shaft and exhausts.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buickframe1.jpg)

I now have the frame standing on its side, lifted with and secured by the engine hoist. It's useful
for all kinds of lifting.
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: Rattiac on December 14, 2023, 08:10:16 AM
Man,  that looks cool with the fenders on. 😎
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: sixball on December 14, 2023, 12:06:22 PM
This is fun to follow. Quality all the way!
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: Essex_29 on December 16, 2023, 05:33:36 PM
Thank you Rattiac, I like the fendered look, but I'm afraid it will have to sit a bit higher to
be driveable. Hopefully not a lot.
You too, sixball, thank you for the nice words!

Work on the frame now.
I finished up the engine mounts, figuring they'd be easier to weld nicely when I can move the
frame around freely. It took a piece of 1/8" wall water tubing and some  small pieces of the
same thickness plate, to make them ready. 
The 1/4" thick round shaped engine mount plate that looks like it's just welded to the boxing plate, is in
fact not round, but welded to the inside of the frame, and it also has wedges that are welded to the frame
flange under it. The box plate is molded around the mount.
I use Volvo 740 transmission mounts for both the engine and transmission.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick182.jpg)

Since I changed to bigger rear tires, I'm now in the process of lowering the front four link mounts
about 1-1/4" to compensate.
That's the change in plan that I mentioned earlier. As you may see, the lower frame part, that goes
 under the prop shaft is partly cut. That's the mistake I talked about. That thing sits too high, so
the prop shaft might hit it.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick183.jpg)

Later today I cut out the right hand side four link mounts and the center frame part and did a lot
of grinding to tidy things up.
Next will be to get the new frame cener piece made and finish weld everything.
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: Essex_29 on December 23, 2023, 07:34:33 AM
Because reasons not much have been done the last week or so. I cut he parts for the new
center piece for the frame, and that's about it.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick184.jpg)

Hoping to get back at it after christmas, so here goes, greetings from my
garage building, here in Finland:

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buickxmas23.jpg)
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: TFoch on December 23, 2023, 10:28:43 AM
Merry Christmas from New Hampshire USA.  No snow here yet!
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: Essex_29 on December 25, 2023, 02:29:50 PM

Ooff! TFoch, we've had snow sinve October, we had an extremely early winter this year.

Back out playing in the garage today. As you may know, Christmas is celebrated mainly on
Christmas eve here in Europe, December 24th, so the 25th is almost like a normal day off.

I welded up the pices in my last post today, starting with good welds on the inside, to get
the little crossmember strong, enve when it's ground on the outside to look nice.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick184a.jpg)

After completely welding and grinding it, it looked like this.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick184b.jpg)

I tacked in the right hand side four link bar mount and then fully welded everything

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick184c.jpg)

Again lifting the frame and turning it in all different positions to make welding easier. The
frame is upside down in this pic.

Now to a little problem:
I have Moser drive shafts with C-clips. I'm wondering if this will really work, the surface
for the wheel bearing is pretty darn coarse, just like turned on a lathe. Is this normal on
a new axle shaft?

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick1drive.jpg)

Hard to see in a small pic, but it's not at all like bearing  races usually are, almost with a
mirror finish. Would anyone of you have any experience with this kind of thing?
Here's a pic of the end of the axle, just for reference.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick2drive.jpg)
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: Essex_29 on December 31, 2023, 05:45:25 PM
Happy New Year!

Keeping on trying to finish the frame. Now it's time for the strut rods that have
to be modified to fit. Starting with a couple old Mustang lower control arms that
I bought at a swap meet,  I decided to use the inboard bushing to make what
effectively is an extended A-arm.

I first cut away most of what I don't need.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick185.jpg)

Then made some brackets. They're two slightly different sizes, because the frame
slopes downward towards the back.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick185aa.jpg)

The length of the whole assembly is dictated by the idler arm on this side, and
of course, the pitman arm on the driver's side. Brackets tacked in place in this
pic, still working on the strut rod end.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick185a.jpg)

Here the strut rod end is tacked to the rod itself. The aim is to keep the bushings
aligned to make for a smooth moving assembly.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick185b.jpg)

This pic shows how I made the thing compression resistant by welding in a crush
preventing part in the middle, made from 1/8" plate.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick185c.jpg)

Finally the whole thing was clad in the same 1/8" plate, welded
and ground to a smooth finish

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick185d.jpg)

New year, new possiblilities... And now I just have to do the other side.
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: TFoch on January 01, 2024, 01:31:44 PM
Nice work as usual! Thanks for posting all the details.
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: sammons on January 02, 2024, 09:49:34 AM
Nice fab work Essex.
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: Essex_29 on January 27, 2024, 05:28:20 PM
Thank you TFoch and sammons!

Slow progress the last month or so, since I have been coughing and had had a cold that wouldn't let
go. Turns out it's some sinus infection, and I got antibiotics for it yesterday, so I hope to be back on
track in a week maybe.

Since my last post I have made and welded on brackets for the running board mounts to
bolt to, the other strut rod and its mounting brackets and some other small details on
the frame.
Today I boxed in the upper cross member, the one that goes over the prop shaft. I made
 it an open design, but decided to box it for some additional rigidity.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick186.jpg)

I also cut five parts from 3/ 16" plate for a reinforcement plate that will bolt to the inside
of the frame, over the steering box. This will reinforce the frame a bit, since I had to mount
the steering box inside the  frame, to be able to keep the front end geometry decent.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick187.jpg)

Slow work cutting plate with the angle grinder, but I'm too lazy to get the plasma going for
just  a few parts. I probably could have saved time using the plasma already...
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: sammons on January 29, 2024, 06:22:11 PM
Essex, i feel for you on the sinus infection. Last june i mowed some ragweed/pigweed and i thought that set it off. First ears kept plugging, then headache/pressure behind my eyes, then my forehead hurt. Didn't go away so got a steroid shot, that usually kicks it. Nope, went back and got anti-biotics. Told doc i was good with Penicillan, picked up percription. She got me some kind of Z pack 6 day crap. Tore my stomach up for two weeks😡  Still get the snots and ear plugging couple hours every other day.

Looks like you got her boxed up good. What ever it takes, looking good.
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: Essex_29 on February 03, 2024, 02:00:08 PM
Ugh, sammons, that doesn't sound good.
In my case the penicillin doesn't seem to work, I have had seven days of it now, and to
no effect at all so far.

Anyway, got in a couple good shifts in the shop, so the to do list for the frame is all ticked
off. I got the reinforcement plate done today, and it now bolts to the frame with eight
 M12 bolts, they're almost 1/2"

(http://waasadata.com/buick/img/buick187a.jpg)

The frame is mostly sanded. and hangs from the ceiling and the engine hoist. It was sand
blasted when I started working on it, so I'm mostly sanding the epoxy primer so that the
new epoxy and paint will stick. I might do the epoxy tomorrow, but I don't look forward to
it. I dislike standing outside in the winter washing the spray gun with ice cold thinner,
procrastination might be a more funner solution.
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: Essex_29 on February 04, 2024, 09:36:34 AM
I decided to dismiss ideas of procrastination today, and went ahead and got it done.

(http://waasadata.com/buick/img/buick188.jpg)

Luckily it's not crazy cold here now (33 degrees), so heathing is not realy an issue. in a few days ahead,
thursday, I think,
5 degrees is forecasted, and I like  at least about 60 in the shop when I paint, so I'd better do this inside a few days.
A few winters ago, I did bodywork and paint on a ?68 BelAir wagon. It was many weeks of work and the
electric bill wasn't fun that winter.
For filler to work good, you really can't save on heat.
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: Essex_29 on February 05, 2024, 02:58:02 PM
More painting today, better do it as long as the garage is heated nicely, and the weather is not too cold.
Luckily I went to buy more black paint earlier today, to later have paint ready for the bottom and inside of
the body, as it turned out I needed a lot more paint than expected.

(http://waasadata.com/buick/img/buick188a.jpg)

So much overspray when you paint something like this.
I got the parts for the front suspension painted too.
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: sammons on February 05, 2024, 08:53:24 PM
Looking good Essex!  Yes, filler and paint don't play well at 60 and below. Amazing how much paint all those small parts and frames take with all the overspray. When i was painting sprint cars, those chassis took a lot of paint trying to get to all sides of all those tubes. Drag car cages were bad enough, but tube chassis were terrible.
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: Essex_29 on February 09, 2024, 03:42:01 PM
Thank you sammons. Yes, I  hear you, spray painting anything built from tubes is a chore, and
a huge waste of paint.

I happened to get the frame hung almost exactly on its center of gravity, so I could roll it back to its
place with the engine hoist without any help. It sits on jack stands now, with rags between the
stands and the painted frame, like any old show car frame. Silly as this is going to be a driver. The paint
on the  frame will be scratched to death in a week when I get to drive this thing.

(http://waasadata.com/buick/img/buick188b.jpg)

I started with the fun stuff, mounting new bushings and balljoints. This is slow work, the old fasteners
being used have to be cleaned, details and parts have to be painted and of course, some parts are
missing and have to be ordered.

(http://waasadata.com/buick/img/buick188c.jpg)

All stages of a build are fun in some way. Right now it feels awesome to be doing something that visibly
shows progress.
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: sammons on February 11, 2024, 10:19:01 AM
Frame looks great Essex. Your moving right along.
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: Essex_29 on February 15, 2024, 03:19:26 PM
Thank you sammons, doing my best to keep the momentum going.

A few bits done, new balljoints and bushings in the control arms. I also trial fitted the adapters for the
GM G-body/ Camaro/ S10 brake calipers to mate to the MustangII spindles, so that the 11" Granada
brake rotors will fit.

(http://waasadata.com/buick/img/buick188cc.jpg)

I have to say, the aftermarket for American cars is amazing. You're not likely be able to find anything similar for average European cars, old or new.

Steering box out of a Mercedes-Benz W124 cleaned, painted and mounted in its place.

(http://waasadata.com/buick/img/buick188f.jpg)

Same with the idler arm, which also got a new repair kit with bushings and that big bolt.

(http://waasadata.com/buick/img/buick188g.jpg)

The strut rod bushing to the right of the idler arm in this pic is still the old one. I have ordered new
bushings from Rockauto a couple days ago.
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: Essex_29 on February 25, 2024, 04:19:30 PM
I cleaned up and painted the rear axle a few days ago, and decided to try and
remove the bearings today. I ended up making a tool from 3/8" plate for removing
them . Using a borrowed heavy duty slide hammer it was easy to get the bearings out.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick189a.jpg)

I'll go buy some kerosene and brake cleaner tomorrow for cleaning the rear axle
internally, and then the engine and transmission for painting.

First time trying to fit the adapters for the GM calipers and Granada rotors. It's fun when
parts from three different cars just fit perfectly.
The Ford brake rotor is slightly thinner than the GM rotor would have been, so for piece
of mind I'm going to make a shim to go between the caliper piston and the brake pad.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick189.jpg)
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: TFoch on February 25, 2024, 05:10:58 PM
Chassis is looking great!
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: sammons on February 26, 2024, 06:55:09 PM
Looking really good. Your moving right along.
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: Essex_29 on March 02, 2024, 02:53:00 AM
Thank you, TFoch and sammons.

I got new bearings, seals and drive shafts mounted, then got the oil filler plug
out (after weding a bolt to it).
Then got  the rear brakes done and adjusted.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick189b.jpg)

I had to watch a good video on youtube to get the springs right. Last time I built brakes
like these was last spring, but I had managed to forget how I did it.
That done, the right hand brake rotor  with new bearing and all was installed, and
suddenly we have a roller!

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick190L.jpg)

Getting the project down on the floor standing on its own wheels always feels like an accomplishment
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: Rattiac on March 02, 2024, 12:04:50 PM
Looking good.  Gonna be like a brand new car.  👍
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: Essex_29 on March 04, 2024, 03:03:02 PM
Thank you Rattiac. It's fun with new parts. When I built the Essex I didn't have any money, so all parts were
used, good parts, but used. I put in s new rear brake cylinder and a repair kit for the brake master cylinder, not
much else. Budget was slim&tight that time.

I got all three brake hoses done yesterday. I should have welded those in before painting the frame, but I didn't
think of it then.

(http://waasadata.com/buick/img/buick192.jpg)

I bought a couple 5/8" box wrenches and cut them down to use as brake hose moutning brackets. This works
very well, and was fun, compared to filing holes to fit the hoses

(http://waasadata.com/buick/img/buick192a.jpg)

I had been planning on painting the transmission, but it turned out pretty nice just cleaning ithe dirt and crud off with an assorment
of rotating wire brushes.

(http://waasadata.com/buick/img/buick191.jpg)

I also mounted the slave clutch cylinder. I'll change the oil,then it will be ready for installation.
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: TFoch on March 04, 2024, 06:55:25 PM
Very cool idea using the box wrenches for the brake hose mount!
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: sammons on March 05, 2024, 09:27:09 AM
Looks really nice Essex!
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: Essex_29 on March 09, 2024, 04:21:24 PM
Thank you Tom. I was thinking about how to file nice looking hexagonal holes and decided wrenches
would be more fun.
Also, I was thinking of you today and the footer in your posts, as I was enjoying a good part of my
day lying in the sofa with the cat on my chest, and my grandkid sitting on my legs, reading books with
her and her sister. Time well spent, even if it wasn't spent in the garage.
Thank you also, sammons Always fun when the work you do show like they do at this time. It
feels like progress.

I spent a couple hours cleaning off most of the dirt off my engine thursday evening, efter getting it
bolted to the engine stand the night before. 

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick191a.jpg)

It's a ton more work that to clean up a chevy small block, there are so many small shapes in the
block and the heads, it's taking a lot of effort to get it clean, probably three hours was spent after
taking  the after pic above.
I dropped the bottom part of the oil pan to clean it out and check how bad it looked inside. Not
very good, but with some luck, the engine might be serviceable.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick191b.jpg)

Tomorrow I'll probably go get a couple of those rotating nylon abrasive wire brushes to scuff the
block and heads with to give the epoxy something to grab onto. Before that I'll do some engine
work, cleaning the vavetrain some and flush the engine with some oil and diesel and ...
We'll see.
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: Essex_29 on March 23, 2024, 04:14:15 PM
Back after a lot more cleaning and also some totally unrelated work.
I removed the cylindrical thingy in the oil pan here in my last post. I assume it's an oil level sender or
something. I welded the hole shut after removing the sender, it was leaking anyway, so no reason at
all to keep it.
A few days more of cleaning the block and various parts, I stirred a batch of epoxy and sprayed it on.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick191c.jpg)

The engine looks funny in light gray, like an Iveco marine diesel. Transmission bellhousing was epoxied
too, as was the engine to trans adapter and the intake.

Then the next day, black automotive 2K Glasurit high gloss paint.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick191f.jpg)

The intake looks very nice  when painted. Before painting I welded in a longitudinal divider in the center
of the intake to avoid the adjacent intake runners to steal the air/fuel mix from eachother.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick191g.jpg)

The bell housing was painted where it shows when you look at the back of the engine with the car assembled.
(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick191h.jpg)

Today, I sandblasted and epoxied the engine mounts, also the new water pump, thermostat housing and pulley.
Seems it's new parts that need to be painted every day.
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: sammons on March 25, 2024, 02:16:53 PM
Engine and trans looks great! You are moving right along.
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: TFoch on March 25, 2024, 06:05:47 PM
Looks like fine jewelry!
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: sixball on March 26, 2024, 12:45:35 PM
It looks great. You can't go wrong with gloss black.
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: Essex_29 on April 01, 2024, 02:06:59 PM
Thank you all for the positive comments!

I had a hickup with some weird silicone crap on my engine parts which prevcented the paint to
stick. It seems okay now, but I think I might sand and paint the valve covers again.

I've been doing little things, like cutting paper gaskets and for the distributors and putting new
 seals in them. They'll mount on the ends of the camshafts, so it's a bit different than the old
V8s I usually work on.
Painting engine mounts, waterpump and pulleys, mounting some stuff and so on.
Today I finally got to take out the big box I ordered from PMC (a Polish company) that contains
 the engine to transmission adapter. The box has been warming its shelf for years already.
The aluminum flywheel with its cast steel friction surface looks phenomenal, it's like technical
porn. It sandwiches the flex plate to the crank, so the starter has something to engage to.

(http://waasadata.com/buick/img/buick193.jpg)
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: Essex_29 on April 05, 2024, 06:19:53 PM
I had to get help to get the transmission coaxed all the way into position. Even then we worked
quite a bit to get it done. I must have gotten the clutch plate a tad off center.

(http://waasadata.com/buick/img/buick193a.jpg)

I had to buy a few fastners today,  for bolting the bellhousing to the engine. Some of the bolts
that came with the adapter kit were a bit too short for my liking.
I have some after market gauges, and  ofcourse the temp sender doesn't fit. I went to a hydraulic
shop, and they had a thingy that fit the thread in my engine, but not to the sender. So a guy put the
thingy in the lathe, chopped it off, drilled a bigger hole through it, and ran a tap through it, so now
the sender fits. The thingymajig, the labour and a cupper washer amounted to the grand total of
16 ?uros. That's about $17.50. Unbelievable.
They took pity in me, I guess.
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: TFoch on April 05, 2024, 07:28:43 PM
That engine and trans would never fit in my 33 Chevy!
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: Essex_29 on April 06, 2024, 04:08:25 PM
TFoch, it wouldn't have fit in this car either, if it weren't for some modifications to the frame and body.
Actually, no one knows how it will actually fit with all its accessories. Right now I have no idea how I'll get some
kind of oil filtration system to fit on the driver's side under where the power steering pump will mount. Also, I
have planned on running a mechanical fan, but right now I think there's a chance I'll have to run an electric
one and I really wouldn't want that.

In any case, the technicals fit just fine so far, where it was three months ago.

(http://waasadata.com/buick/img/buick193b.jpg)

The engine and transmission along with the propshaft are mounted and the pinion angle checked. Lots of
visual progress today, and to me, a chassis close to ready like this is fun to just look at. Close to ready is
an illusion, of course, lots missing still.
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: EDNY on April 06, 2024, 09:29:06 PM
Essex_29...that is a piece of art!
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: Essex_29 on April 14, 2024, 03:12:37 PM
Thank you Ed!

I got a couple small things done, I sanded the distributor housings with  first 80 grit, then 180-360-600-
1000-2000 and 4000. it took just a few minutes to get them shiny after that.
I have new seals and gaskets in the distributors now, all bolted up with new hardware, new rotors and caps.
Last night I painted the gold stripes on the valve covers, and today my son was here, he sat in the kitchen
painting the CADILLAC script.
Just now in the evening, I screwed the valve covers to the heads with brass acrorn nuts and washers after
drenching the cam shafts in a liberal dose of stp.

(http://waasadata.com/buick/img/buick193c.jpg)

Now I'm thinking about how to paint the air filter housings. Silver hammer varnish  is what they have been,
but maybe they should be black as not to add too many colors. They'll probably get an Air Maze fiter sticker
anyway, that's probably enough color.

Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: sammons on April 14, 2024, 08:54:11 PM
Essex great job. Looks fantastic!👍👍
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: sixball on April 15, 2024, 05:20:03 PM
Looks great!
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: chopper526 on April 18, 2024, 08:37:30 PM
Black air filter would look awesome, not sure what air maze stickers look like. The cadillac valve covers are the best!
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: TFoch on April 20, 2024, 09:45:53 PM
Wow!
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: Rattiac on April 20, 2024, 11:40:34 PM
That is nice.  Like the lil details,  brass nuts, ect.  👍
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: Essex_29 on April 25, 2024, 02:58:39 PM
Thank you all, for the support and kind words!

chopper526 After pondering to and fro, I decided to paint the air filter housings black, and did it today.
This is what the Air Maze air filter sticker looked like (bottom), and the top one is my own redesign. I tried to
"Americanize" the Brittish filter sticker, just for fun.
I'll still have to order the sticker, but that's what it will look like. Just noticed that I have a typo there.

(http://waasadata.com/buick/img/168.jpg)

Yesterday I jacked up the body, still sitting on its dolly, to be able to do some welding that I couldn't do while
the frame was still bolted to the floor. To be done is finish welding a lot of rosette welds along the trans tunnel
and some details around the bottoms of the B-pillars.

(http://waasadata.com/buick/img/buick194.jpg)

The bottom edge along the rear of the body has some rust along it, so it needs some repair work done.
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: Essex_29 on May 11, 2024, 06:56:59 PM
My project seems to have come to a standstill. Funny, since I've been at it like usual.
The body has been welded all along the trans tunnel and around the B-pillars, like I
mentioned earlier. A bright light inside the car and welding from the underside, I found
a wealth of small holes and misses in my welds, and also a few places where the work
wasn't quite finished. The bottom part of the rear end of the body still to do before
primerig the underside.

A few days went into designing, some shopping for materials and making an ignition
wire holdup thing. The ignition wires need to be held with something, since they run
above the exhaust headers. This design utilizes the original loom inside a
rectangular pipe.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick193e.jpg)

When I got it in place, I thought it looked awful big and didn't like it. Even painted, and
decorated with brass acorn nuts, it looks too bulky to me, so I tried a simpler approach,
which I like better.

I made these things from nylon and they hold the ignition wires nicely and scurely. They
are held together with M3 screws and nuts, I think about #5 - 40 size. This is what's
holding the wires to the unpainted pieces of flat bar in the above pic.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick193ea.jpg)

I made these things from nylon and they hold the ignition wires nicely and scurely. They
are held together with M3 screws and nuts, I think about 5-40 size. The plastic looks
very light gray here, because they're sanded with coarse sanding paper, but it's
actually black nylon.
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: TFoch on May 13, 2024, 04:52:55 PM
Nice! That should work well!
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: sammons on May 15, 2024, 10:27:40 AM
You say stand still, looks like progress to me. That little stuff has to be done to move on more important things. Looking good.
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: Essex_29 on May 15, 2024, 02:38:43 PM
Thank you TFoch, I like the more mechanical look of the open ingnition wires, and that they look orderly
when pulled straight.
Thank you also, sammons. I guess even if it doesn't feel like it, it's progress as soon as you spend time
on the project. Sometimes it just doesn't feel productive, what you do.

I got mail yesterday, a nice size parcel, which contained a radiator. I tried it in its new place today, and even
if it's for a model A, it fits fairly well.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick195.jpg)

I cut out a 47"x9" piece of sheet metal, which will be the biggest patch I've ever made. I'm going to a friend's
shop one of these days to roll it in the english wheel.
There's some rust in the lower part of the rear of the body, where a filler panel between the fuel tank and the
body has been.
The plan is to repair the rust damage, and lengthen the body downwards about 3"  I figure the body would
otherwise look very short and odd, since I've just deleted the tank and not replaced it with anything.

Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: Essex_29 on May 19, 2024, 02:58:34 PM
As I mentioned in my last post, I was going to do a large patch, here's how it went.
I had made templates from wood and wood screws, to have something to check the
shape of the sheet against while I was rolling it.
Back at home I measured the new sheet centered and level and fastened it with four
sheet metal screws in lieu of clecos.
Then a lot of shrinking in the deep throat schrinker-stretcher. When the shape looked
okay, I made a 3/4" flange using a tipping die in the bead roller, then
shrinked the flange to get back to the right shape.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick196.jpg)

Having watched a lot of Fitzees Fabrications videos on youtube, I had long thought about
trying his cut-n-butt method. I did now, and it worked a charm. I cut some, then made a tack,
cut some more, made a tack and so on.
The body was extended downwards as far as I had made the new wheel arches three years
ago. Turned out it was two inches, not three as I mentioned earlier.
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: Rattiac on May 21, 2024, 01:18:48 AM
I need to do this to the rear of mine.  Being a 4-door it has a belt-line around the bottom and goes up by the rear fenders  around a corner.  Gonna take a pro to pull that off.
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: Essex_29 on May 26, 2024, 02:19:44 PM
Rattiac, I watched Fitzee on youtube today, working on a custom fifties chevy (might acctually be a 1950),
 he does anything with simple tools. Maybe you don't need a pro, there's always bondo. I used 36 lbs of bondo
on my Essex, and it didn't even have fenders. It was my first project in the dream garage I had just built. I fail
to see my own limitations, sometimes it goes well, sometimes, not so much.

I had to get a small alternator, as  the one I had meant to use wouldn't fit. This is a 40 Ampere one, meant for
a Kubota. I had planned on using V-belts, but thought the better of it, I'll never get this build done, if I am
going to alter everything, so instead I bought a new pulley, and a 15-17 mm bushing to make it fit the axle.
Of course the pulley was too thick for the short axle, so I had to turn it down about  three thirtyseconds
on my uncle's lathe for the nut to have enough threads. It's never as easy as it looks.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick197.jpg)

It took me all weekend to make a sturdy alternator mount, that gets the pulleys exactly in line with
eachother. I admit to have been to town, shopping for a belt and having an ice cream too, so not actually all weekend.
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: sammons on May 27, 2024, 03:43:04 PM
Back panel looking good. Your making great progress.
.
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: Essex_29 on June 03, 2024, 04:23:10 PM
Thank you sammons, Hoping to up the progress a bit for some time, I started my vacation today.

A few days ago, I was under the body of the Buick, it's on jackstands, washing the floor panel and the
whole bottom side with thinners in preparation for paint, when I noticed the raw edge of the wheel tubs.
Laying there looking at the sad looking edges, I took a deep breath and got to drawing and making
some clamping tools to get 1/4" round bar welded to the tub edges.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick198.jpg)

I saw this design sometime in the winter, on youtube, but didn't exactly recall how they looked. I made
six of them, three and three, mirrored. Six turned out to be enough or this kind of job.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick198a.jpg)

Here's before, when tacked, and after. The edge looks much more like it belongs now, and the clamping
tools worked great combined with vice grips.
I was surprised how much easier to do the other side was than the first one. Learning by doing.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick198b.jpg)
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: sammons on June 03, 2024, 06:55:32 PM
Ahh, nice. It's all in the details. Don't need the woulda coulda shoulda after your done.
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: chopper526 on June 03, 2024, 11:56:55 PM
That really turned out nice and only a few will realize it didn't come this way from the factory. It gives a nice feeling of satisfaction, doesn't it?
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: sixball on June 04, 2024, 12:14:26 PM
Nice work! Thanks for sharing the clamp design.
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: Essex_29 on June 05, 2024, 04:45:48 PM
Thank you sammons, I appreciate that comment.
chopper526, yes , it does, when it looks the way one planned.
Anytime, sixball. If anyone can use someting I do, or take inspiration from it, perhaps I have done something right.
Thank you all for the nice words.

Yesterday I was back under the body, grinding and scuffing with 180 grit on the orbital sander, shifting to
hand sanding where I didn't get with the machine, which was most anyway. Then washed with thinner.
Used rags all over the place.
I mixed about a pint of epoxy donned my ppe and filled up my brand new spray gun. Cheap as they come, just
bought it to be able to neglect it if I don't feel like cleaning it up after painting.
Then sprayed the underside of the floor and the firewall with grey epoxy primer.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick199a.jpg)

In the evening, when the fumes were lighter, I sanded the inside of the floor, vacuumed and washed it with thinner.
Today after  breakfast I went out to the garage, and sprayed the floor, topside. Then did some paper work, met my
grandkids and in the late afternoon I sprayed the floor inside and out with black industrial 2K, which apparently
 can be applied after 3 hours @ 77 degrees. I gave it six hours or a bit more.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick199.jpg)

This got to have been one of my most efficient days during this project.
Yes, the paint is specked with dust.  No, it doesn't mater, it's going to be carpeted.

Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: 62131 on June 06, 2024, 07:23:10 AM
Looks good, as you said a little gust but no one will ever see it anyways when your finished
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: Essex_29 on June 10, 2024, 04:29:54 PM
Thank you 62131.

Painting the black that fast (before thinking things through) wasn't that bright of a move. I totally
forgot the body sealant.
Oh well, I figure I'll paint over it with black paint and a small brush.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick199b.jpg)
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: Essex_29 on June 10, 2024, 04:50:41 PM
Yesterday, before buying that body sealant, I worked on my drip rails. The original ones were thrown
inside the car when I bought it, they were totally destroyed, bent and dinged, and I have no idea how
 I'd have mounted them to the body anyway as  they were from some kind of cast pot metal.
The drip rail was about the size of a 10mm diameter tube ( about 3/8"). I cut away about a quarter of
the tube along it's lenght, that's two 80" long pieces of pipe

I then bent the pipe over a large Pontiac brake drum that had almost the exact right diameter.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick200a.jpg)

Then I cut the base rails out of  14 gauge sheetmetal.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick200.jpg)

 86 holes drilled for plug welds in the sheet metal.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick200b.jpg)

Welding the tube to the sheet metal strips was tricky, as I effectively had to do it from the back side.
I clamped the drip rail to the roof, and started plug welding it from the rear, bending and adjusting the
warped thing into some kind of submission. After grinding the welds, it looks like I have a driprail.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick200c.jpg)

As usual, now I just have to make one for the other side.
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: sixball on June 11, 2024, 11:57:58 AM
You are good!
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: sammons on June 11, 2024, 12:59:55 PM
Lol, i opened post without my glasses. Thought you were test fitting your black carpet with white pipeing, old school😁 It's easy to get s head of yourself sometimes.

Your rain gutter fab looks great, nice job.
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: Essex_29 on June 16, 2024, 04:37:12 PM
Thank you very much sixball, for the nice words!
Lol sammons, my wife said it looked nice with the outlined floor panels, but then she knew
what I was up to, I had groaned about the stupidity of forgetting the sealing work before the
black paint. In any case, it's painted over now, I made a  small amount of 2K paint and brushed
it on with a small brush.

On thursday I finally got the driver's side drip rail done.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick200d.jpg)

After a couple days filled with chores and whatnot, I got to welding the 18 holes where some chrome
and the cowl lights have been mounted.
Welding and grinding done, I sanded the paint off the whole cowl area.
I may have a small patch to do on one door, but otherwise I think the body is done, when it comes
 to rust repairs.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick201.jpg)

I'll probably weld the hood gasket hold down holes too, when I figure an easy way to make suitable
 round sheet metal plates. Maybe some small washers would fit well enough.
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: chopper526 on June 23, 2024, 08:36:22 AM
The way those drip rails turned out just blow my mind. Incredible job!
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: 62131 on June 24, 2024, 12:42:10 PM
A very creative approach to making drip rail, nice work
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: TFoch on June 24, 2024, 05:15:16 PM
Drip rail looks great!
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: Essex_29 on July 02, 2024, 01:38:13 PM
Thank you chopper526, 62131 and TFoch For the positive comments.

After a few days of working with other cars and a trip to Sweden, I got busy in the garage again. Time to make the windshield
 frame. As this car came with a crank up windshield framed in wood, I decided early on that I wanted a top hinged windshield. 
I made the opening itself some time ago, just the frame has been missing. 5/8" U-profile was chosen for material.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick202c.jpg)

For hinges I used a couple hood hinges from some thirties car hood, that a buddy of mine had laying around. I cut the hinges
 into two equal lengths and welded them into one unit.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick202b.jpg)

For opening mechanism I used some 3/4" round bar left from my steering shaft mods. I drilled a through hole and welded a
bolt from the other end, so I got something to screw the windshield openers to.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick202a.jpg)

After a bunch of measuring and finally welding, I have the windshield frame done.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick202.jpg)

Fun thing is my grandfather made those brass parts for some piece of furniture or something. I found them when I emptied
my parent's house a few years ago. Polished, they shine like gold. Fun to use old stuff.

 
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: Essex_29 on July 05, 2024, 05:26:38 PM
After doing some other stuff and waiting for the piece of plate I ordered, it was back to the accessory belts.
Same as with the alternator, the Mercedes power steering pump I had planned on using, didn't fit. I found
out that Volvo pumps are much smaller with remote reservoir, so I got one of those from a scrapped car,
and determined that it might fit, but only just.

This engine has a remote oil filter, and becasue all that wouldn't  fit in among my headers and narrow chassis,
 I still have to figure that one out. In any case, the oil filter connections will be in the same 10 mm (about 3/8")
thick piece of plate that I'm using for the pump mount here. More on that later on.
Lots of grinding and drilling to make this part.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick203.jpg)

The plate with all its holes fit first try. Unbelievable. Usually it's hard to get more than two holes to fit.
I then continued by making the pump mount. I wanted it to pivot on two bolts, to assure the belt runs
straight. Also a mount for the mount was made from 8mm (5/16") plate.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick203a.jpg)

The hard part was to get the little mount in the right position, so I called a buddy, who came over to give
me a hand, holding the pump in the right position while I scribed. All parts back on the work bench holes
were drilled and tapped, and the parts were bolted together.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick203b.jpg)

Lo and behold, it  came out spot on! I had counted on adjusting and filing holes, but first try. This never
happens.
I cut an old belt and shortened it to a nice fit using a knife, a piece of sheet metal and some pop rivets. Next time
I go shopping, I'll get a new belt, the popriveted one probably won't last for long.
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: Essex_29 on July 09, 2024, 03:04:40 PM
The belt tensioner for the power steering pump is done. Also the crank sensor (arrow) is in place, and things
done so it can be replaced without removing more than one bolt.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick203c.jpg)

Next up is the grille. The shape of the grille shell is nice, no need to alter that, but I don't like how the original
grille looked, it's just a stamped sheet, so I decided early on to make a tube grille.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick204.jpg)

For tubing I use the chapest alternative, which is chromed copper waterpipe, 3/8" daiamete, that's 10 mm in
local currency. I bought a 10.2 mm drill and drilled holes to make a matrix for the top and one for the bottom.
Since the grille shell is a bit wider at the bottom, I drilled the holes .327" farther apart in the bottom matrix.
This resulted in holes for 31 pieces of tubing.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick204a.jpg)

The botom matrix here. It took some figuring out to get it to fit without showing from the front of the grille,
and to get each of the tubes fastened so the whole thing won't rattle. I bought a box of very small sheet
metal screws to get it all mounted.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick204b.jpg)

All the parts and tubes trial fitted it looks okay, the spacing of the tubes follow the shape of the grille decently well.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick204c.jpg)

The crank hole will get a filler piece, it looks a bit silly as you can see the tubes going past it.
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: Essex_29 on July 11, 2024, 04:34:54 PM
A small pece of sheet metal was missing between the windsheild opening and the roof. 42" wide and when
 cut, about 2" high.
The first pic shows what was missing.
The piece going here is bent,  it goes all the way to the front of the roof and and is plug welded through the
myriad original holes. The bend wasn't straight, it was bent using a tipping die on my little bead roller, then
using the shrinker, got the new part straight so it fits.

In the second pic the new piece is lined up with vice grips, ready for plugwelding.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick205.jpg)

Finally the welds were ground down. Some welding still to do on the old front "forehead".
The arrow points at the hole where the axle goes for the viper motor I bought yesterday.
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: TFoch on July 12, 2024, 05:05:33 PM
Wow that grill looks so much better!
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: sammons on July 13, 2024, 11:24:03 AM
Nice fab work. Your pump looks like the small ones they use here on Sprint cars. Your winshield frame looks great! The grille looks awsome also👍
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: Essex_29 on July 17, 2024, 04:47:44 PM
Thank you TFoch. I figured a tube grille with tubes fairly tightly spaced would look good, and I think it works.
Thanks sammons for the nice words. Just hoping the windsheld frame isn't too fimsy, so the glass cracks.


I mounted the new aluminum radiator to the shell and was lucky, the mounting tabs for this radiator, meant for
model A Fords coincided with some convinently placed original holes in the grille shell.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick204d.jpg)

I don't like that you can see through the grille around the radiator, so a shroud was fabricated from 19ga sheet metal.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick204e.jpg)(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick204f.jpg)


I saw a hot rod with a crank hole delete a couple weeks ago and made an own version from a cut down Cragar wheel
center cap I happened to have hanging on my garage wall.

The radiator and grille shell done now, pending paint and assembly with the tube grille.
Radiator and shroud will be flat black, grille shell gloss black and the tubes chrome.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick204g.jpg)

I need to invent some kind of cap for the grille, to cover that giant hole on the top. I have a chromed oil filler cap that
would fit, but it might be too bulky, we'll see what we come up with. Suggestions are welcome.
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: sammons on July 18, 2024, 11:48:29 AM
Essex, your shroud and Cragar badge look great!  A lot of guys just like the looks of a radiator cap or hood ornament. I suppose it depends on the build style. I welded up the hole on my grille shell when i shortned it and extended the depth to get a better slope and room for a/c condenser and external trans cooler.
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: sixball on July 18, 2024, 02:44:56 PM
Looks good!
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: Essex_29 on July 20, 2024, 09:02:28 AM
Thank you sixball.
sammons, thank you for the suggestion! That grille looks great without the radiator cap, I might just do that.
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: Essex_29 on July 21, 2024, 04:28:51 PM
I did it sammons, I think it looks much better now, thank you for the suggestion!

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick204h.jpg)

I tig welded it, and get this: I only dipper the tungsten once! Lots of hammering, so it was
a good thing I used tig instead of mig.

Radiator hoses done now too. I was given access to the local speedshop's radiator hose
collection, and found one with potential. I cut it in half and used it for both the upper and
lower hose. The upper one is 1-1/2" at the radiator and 1-3/4" at the thermostat housing.
The smaller size 90 degree bend one fit right inside the bigger size hose. I found a piece
of copper tubing that fits inside the smaller hose, a hose clamp keeps things together. I have
the upper hose made like this on my Pontiac and it has worked for 13 years by now.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick204i.jpg)

The lower hose is done with help of a 90 degree bend too, same size both ends, the halves
joined together with hose clamps over a copper tube.
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: sammons on July 22, 2024, 08:23:54 PM
Looks great! Like i say, if you were building a stock looking hot rod i'd probably hunt up a rad cap/ornament. But on a regular custom hot rod build, smoothed off looks good. Sometimes less is more😁
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: Essex_29 on July 24, 2024, 03:15:21 PM
You're right, sammons. Especially in my case, since I'm planning on running hoodless and
you will be able to see the radiator cap anyway. Not a good look having two of them.

Ed, I decided to make my own shifter. Thank you so much anyway.

 I had a buddy plasma cut a rough shape from
3/8" plate, and did a whole lot of filing and sanding today. I had planned to weld a bolt to
the top of the thing, but decided to try and make it round enough to cut threads on it and
 to my surprise it worked. It's just mild steel, so it will be painted the same black as most
of the rest of the car

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick206.jpg)  (http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick206a.jpg)

The bottom end will be shortened and then welded or bolted to the shifter mechanism.
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: EDNY on July 24, 2024, 05:28:20 PM

Ed, I decided to make my own shifter. Thank you so much anyway.



Still hanging in the garage for you!
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: Essex_29 on July 29, 2024, 04:45:16 PM
Thank you Ed, I really appreciate it.  It would be super cool to run a shifter that I got as a gift from America (no less),
but I'll settle for a home made one for now. At least it's original.

I had a minor setback. I was watching youtube videos on bmw engines, and then realized that I have mounted the
radiator hoses ass backwards. In other words I ordered the wrong radiator, and connected the hot hose to the
bottom of the radiator. I just assumed that the connection at the thermostat would be the upper hose, but no.
Oh well, I guess I have to get my radiator modified, it would look too silly to criss cross the radiator hoses.

Other than that I've been working on the dash. Seven days in on this project, I think. I took a few hours off to grind the shifter.

Lots of pics here:
One of dozens of sketches. This one's fairly realistic looking.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick207.jpg)

Top of dash with its edge profile.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick207a.jpg)

Right hand side panel looking pretty nice and swoopy.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick207b.jpg)

A buddy asked if the window crank fits there. No it didn't, so annoyingly enough I had to cut the
thing down a bit to get the hand in there to crank.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick207c.jpg)

Rounding things off as much as I could.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick207d.jpg)

The driver's side panel in the making. I couldn't imagine how hard it would be to make a mirrored
part. All measured cut and  ready for welding and hammering here.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick207e.jpg)

Welded and ground  here, now the rounded top edge profile is welded in too.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick207f.jpg)

Center panel designing and trials here (pic from the R&D department).
All gauges and switches will probably be in this small panel. 
The clock is a swap meet find and has been bolted to the roof of an old bus in its cool housing.
 It's planned to be modified as a tach at some point.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick207g.jpg)
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: sammons on July 31, 2024, 11:04:35 AM
Essex, your shifter looks good. I built one once, took a lot of time and effort polishing up the bare steel, then clear coated it. Didn't keep the car long so i have no idea how well it lasted.
Your dash is coming along nicely.
Bites that you had the wrong radiator. I used one for a 32 Ford for Chevy motor. I still struggled with it in my head that it was correct, checked many times😄 It was dummy proof, but i can be a dummy some times.
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: Essex_29 on July 31, 2024, 05:27:57 PM
Thank you sammons. I think normal steel could last for a while if you polish it up good and get some kind
of adhesion promoter on before clear coating it. I've never tried, though.

I thought the center part of the dash looked too angular and tried to freehand some more shape into it. I
gave up, started over and made a hammer form from plywood.
A buddy milled the rounded edges, then just on to cut a piece of sheet metal and start hammering. The
result is surprisingly neat and I think this shape looks much better now. More art deco in my mind.
I had to do some cutting and welding at the lower rounded corners as expected. You only get sheet
metal to shrink so much in such a small area.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick207h.jpg)

I might move the clock (future tach) down and backward a bit, and the sides have to be added to the
center part to make it fit against the side panels.
I made a lot of planning tonight, on how to get the whole dash assembled and then to be able to
disassemble it. How to get service done, and how to change the brake booster and on and on.
I think I have enough figured out now, to be able to continue working.
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: Essex_29 on August 13, 2024, 07:08:30 AM
Unbelieveably time consuming, this dash thing. I've been going at it every day for some time and not at all done yet.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick207i.jpg)

I'm pleased with how the center section came out. The bottom back edge got a 1/4" round bar bent to shape,
welded and blended in, which makes it look more factory. I moved the clock down about an inch.

Part of the dash is going with the door. Here's the piece behind which the door card will go.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick207j.jpg)




















The dash was cut at an angle towards the A-pillar.

End plates welded on and sanded.

























Door closed, there's a sixteenth or two of gap.


























Because I have to be able to disassmble the dash, the bottom part has to be fastened with  sheet metal screws


Working on the other end of the dash now to get to this same point.
The cluch- and power steering fluid reservoirs are mounted under the dash now.

I'm dreaming of getting this project into some kind of driveable condition for next summer.  I just
have to find a way of doing things faster...
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: TFoch on August 13, 2024, 11:39:49 AM
Wow that is looking awesome!  Great fabrication and well thought out!
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: sixball on August 13, 2024, 03:32:13 PM
It is cool that your skills can keep pace with your imagination.
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: Essex_29 on August 18, 2024, 02:33:23 PM
Thank you TFoch.
Nicely put, sixball. I never did much sheet metal work before this project, it's learning by doing.
 I have no shortage of ideas, it's fun when it works, and sometimes it does. Sometimes it doesn't, and
one just has to make it in a more simple way.

Yesterday I disassembld the dash to make service openings in the top. It's pretty busy there already
and it will be very well filled when the electricals are done.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick207k.jpg)

Hatches themselves still to be done, but now you get to check the fluids without much hassle. The
hatches will be held in place with some simple screws or knobs.

Service openings on top of the dash seen here.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick207l.jpg)

Left over brightwork from a 1938 Chrysler restoration provide some bling. They were easy to mount
with small screws that fit in the channel on the back of the trim peaces. A small blob of weld prevent
 the scews from turning when mounting the nuts.
Holes drilled for switches for dome light, heater fan, driving lights and wipers. Maybe a starter button
in the center hole later.
I also pulled up a few wires through the right hand side A-pillar for the wipers, dome light and such.

Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: Essex_29 on August 24, 2024, 06:06:27 PM
My long time idea, a code lock for the ignition, will be mounted above the windshield. First just because
a bunch of toggle switches wouldn't look right on oildish style the dash, but then I noticed that the panel
tidies up the area above the windshield nicely.

I started by making a tool for dimpling the switches a bit. I happened to have a big washer that I welded
 to a 3/8" thick piece of plate steel that I had drilled a 10 mm hole in. The sheet metal with a pre drilled
hole, or holes, goes in between the small washers, and the nut is cinched down tightly.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick208.jpg)

 This worked better than expected, I couldn't help myself before I made 11 holes, it was fun.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick208a.jpg)

The bottom break was bent back, which made the bead-like form at the bottom of the panel.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick208b.jpg)

I had to make room for the wiper motors, which made for some work I hadn't thought of, but then there's
always things you forget to consider.
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: sixball on August 24, 2024, 09:17:19 PM
Neat tool and a good look.
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: TFoch on August 25, 2024, 08:43:40 AM
Nice work on the dimple die!  I like how the dash continuing to the door came out!
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: Essex_29 on September 01, 2024, 03:51:06 PM
Thank you sixball and TFoch. The dimple die idea worked out better than I had expected, even with
a whole row of them there was very little distortion to the piece of sheetmetal. The dash continuing on the doors
 is an old idea, I just had to try and make, I just like the look so much.

The dash and roof panel getting ready, the A-pillars looked awful. I made some sheetmeetal pieces to cover
the ugliness.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick208c.jpg)

Then onto the right hand door, which had a bit of rust. I think it had rusted because the car had been crashed at
 some point, and the door had been leaded. The acid had probably leaked into the door and settled in the
wooden structure and eaten the sheetmetal from the inside.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick209.jpg)

This is the first time I have actually done a reasonably serious rust repair on a door. It came out ok, and is almost
hard to spot on the inside of the door, where the new flange has been welded in a couple spots.


(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick209a.jpg)

Door done for now, and put aside, I took a deep breath and started working on the headers. I have been
procrastinating with these, I'm not good with the tig welder and working with stainless is a pain, it's so darn stiff.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick210.jpg)

Two headers done, two to go.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick210a.jpg)

This turned out to be less time consuming than I expected as it often is when you procastinate becasue some
work seems overwhelming. Third header is well under way.



Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: sixball on September 01, 2024, 11:41:49 PM
Very cool!
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: Essex_29 on September 08, 2024, 03:25:42 PM
Thank you sixball.

I got all headers done on saturday. I was counting on it taking much longer, but it took just ten days.
That's a win.

I sat down the body dolly on the floor as the body's more or less done for now, and jacked up the frame
instead. The new radiator got mounting holes drilled, it was mounted in the grille shell and bolted
 to the front cross member.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick211.jpg)

The driver's side apron adjusted to fit and bolted to the frame mounts I made some time ago.
I forget if I mentioned it before, I made the aprons for the Essex, some 18 years ago and never
used them since I decided to go fenterless. Luckily I never cut them up to use the material and
now they happen to fit this  build
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: TFoch on September 08, 2024, 08:00:36 PM
Looking awesome! I bet it's going to sound as great as it looks!
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: Essex_29 on September 22, 2024, 03:00:20 PM
Thank you TFoch. Can't wait to hear it run!

So, with the aprons mounted, I went on with the running board mounts.  While I was at it, I brought in
the left hand side fenders and cut away some of the front fender to get ot down to about the right height.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick211a.jpg)

I case you're wondering, the sledge hammer will be removed before the first test drive.

My uncle passed late summer, and the last time I had him turn some part for me, he asked if I'd like to get
his lathe when he "turns in his ticket" as he put it. Long story short, I bought the lathe from my cousins
and now have it in my garage. It took five days of work to make room for it with all the arrangements.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buicklathe.jpg)

Good to be back to production work again. Exhausts now.
I had planned on some exotic Y connector between the headers, but decided it's too much work and too
little space (and too time consuming), so this is what we have now.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick210b.jpg)

One hanger done, and the driver's side muffler is welded in. The other pipe will go to a valve and then
back into the same exhaust again. A cut out, but the exhaust and sound will exit in the normal exhaust.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick210c.jpg)

I originally planned to go with 2" exhausts, but decided 2-1/2" is better. This means  the through holes
in the frame where the exhausts go are pretty tight. It might work out, since the V12 is supposed to run
smoothly.
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: TFoch on September 23, 2024, 09:17:15 AM
Nice work! The lathe will be handy to have.
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: sixball on September 24, 2024, 11:24:54 PM
Very nice! Still looking for a gear for my lathe or someone who can make one.
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: Essex_29 on September 29, 2024, 02:21:33 PM
Thank you TFoch and sixball.
 
Continuing on the exhausts.
Here's how I made the plumbing, I guess it's pretty self explanatory now.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick210d.jpg)

As always  with cars, when you are done, you have to do it again on the other side.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick210e.jpg)

Exhausts done as far as I can before the body is back on the frame. The floor wraps pretty
tight around  the rear axle, and I want the exhaust to go over the axle as close to the center
as possible. Hope my plans work in practice.

I think the plans for the near future involves some painting (firewall and grille shell) and such
before the weather turns really cold. The last few days we've had some frost, so regarding
heating I'm already late in the year for warming up the garage for paint and filler.
I'm cheap, so always hoping to keep paint work and such focused to summertime, but it doesn't
often work out.
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: Essex_29 on October 09, 2024, 03:57:33 PM
Turning to some engine work now.
I have been thinking about the oil filter placement and procrastination has been the
go to action for a long time. I decided to try and mount a replacement oil filter mount
from the local farmer's equipment shop. It is for a Massey Ferguson 135 and allows
one to use a spin on oil filter.
Thinking this through as good as I could, I drew a sketch and got this part plasma
cut from 3/4" thick steel plate. As you do in this part of the  world, measurements
are in millimeters.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick211f.jpg)

It was nicely cut, but they had removed the mill scale with a grinder, so some sweat
and maybe a couple swearwords got used along with almost all sand paper and
emery cloth I had, grinding by hand on a thick piece of glass. The result is okay, I
think, but what a lot of wasted work.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick211b.jpg)

Some drilling and tapping later, both the filter adapter plate and filter mount fit the piece
of plate I made earlier this year.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick211c.jpg)

I drilled 5/8" size oil passages, one which coincided nicely with the ones on the side
of the engine block, and one that had to be filed at an angle. The new adapterplate
 was ground and filed to a nicer shape too.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick211d.jpg)

Here the whole assembly is trial fitted on the engine block. It just fits, there's maybe
a sixteenth of an inch of space between the filter and the engine mount.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick211e.jpg)

Right when I had painted all the parts, I suddenly realized that I had forgotten
about the oil pressure sensor.
Like always when you think you have got it done, one detail is missing...
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: Essex_29 on October 11, 2024, 04:56:56 PM
I bought an oil pressure idiot light switch, a tap to go with it and a suitable drill bit.
Also hex socket head bolts to make room for the filter mount.

(http://waasadata.com/buick/img/buick211g.jpg)

The oil pressure sensor just fits behind the power steering pump.

Provided I don't get any leaks, this should be the oil filter mount done. Finally!
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: Essex_29 on October 27, 2024, 02:57:47 PM
Ignition wire looms painted and mounted on both sides.
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: Essex_29 on October 27, 2024, 03:08:04 PM
Having had issues seeing pics in this forum, oddly enough only the ones I posted myself.

Anyway, i got the wire looms done per the pic in the above post.

Starter painted and mounted. Cool piece of tech, it has a planetary gear, thats probably why the V12 BMWs sound so odd when cranking.

Then went on sanding the body and doors down to bare metal. Quite a chore, as many of you probably know. First 80 grit, then 180 to get a suitable finish for the epoxy to adhere to.
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: Essex_29 on October 27, 2024, 03:16:31 PM
Body and doors sprayed with epoxy.

I bought a metric shi#!load of filler, there will be a lot of filler work on this body in the wake of all my hammering and welding.
I got the shape pretty much dialled in where the Volvo V70 roof meets the Buick roof line today.
The doors are ready for the next layer of epoxy, which I use in lieu of sanding sealer.
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: sammons on October 29, 2024, 03:26:14 AM
Essex you are just cruising right along. Great work as usual! Keep at it, nice to see someone making serious progress.
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: sixball on October 29, 2024, 11:54:58 AM
I agree with Sammons. Thanks for taking us along.
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: Essex_29 on November 14, 2024, 03:02:06 PM
Thank you sammons, for the nice words. I'm trying to keep some kind of a pace, I
have to if I'll have any chance of driving the Buick next summer.
You too,  sixball, it's fun if someone reads my posts, and even better if anyone
can learn from my mistakes and maybe when things go as planned too.

The bodywork has been intense and endless. A few days ago it got more fun, when I
thought of adding a small feature to the cowl. Earlier when I sanded off the paint, I noticed a
barely visible crease in the cowl, and thought I'd make a thing of it.
I laid out a line with a speed square and taped along the line. Then added
filler, and took off the tape. When the filler had hardened I added filler to the other side.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick212.jpg)

Some sanding later I sprayed a coat of primer on the new crease, and took a pic as it was
still wet and shiny.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick212a.jpg)

Last sunday when everything was as smooth as I could get it I sprayed on a couple coats of epoxy.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick212b.jpg)

Today, when the epoxy fumes had gone away so I could breathe in the garage again, I filled a bunch
of pinholes that I hadn't noticed before and then sanded the firewall with 360 grit.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick212c.jpg)

Some primer squirted on where I'd gone through to the sheet metal and cleaning up was done, some
more sanding, and now it's ready for a coat of black paint, probably going to get that done tomorrow.

Paint is going on the firewall only at this point. No use painting the body, I'd scratch it up anyway
when I start working on the fenders.
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: EDNY on November 15, 2024, 06:11:22 AM
Looks like a professional operation..pics are super.
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: Essex_29 on November 15, 2024, 04:36:10 PM
Thanks Ed. Far from professional if you ask my buddy who owns an actual body shop, but I'm doing my best.

I got hardener today and some more thinners to wash the spray gun and got busy as soon as I came home
from work. I ran the compressor last night to hopefully keep the dust settled and poured water on the floor
before doing anything else today.
The firewall was washed with wax and silicone remover and then the hardener was mixed with some paint
I bought in the spring.
The paint could have had some reducer added, I didn't have any, and I got a noticeable orange peel as a result, but
otherwise no runs and no dry spray.
#goodenough

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick212d.jpg)
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: sixball on November 17, 2024, 11:24:09 AM
You are showing your human side.  ::)

Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: sammons on November 18, 2024, 07:53:15 AM
Essex looks good! 

Lol, thats little orange peel compaired to the late 70s and early 80s factory Ford paint jobs. My uncle bought a new 1977 Ford LTD 2dr in black for wife. That thing was terrible with orange peel. When my aunt first waxed it, she like to never got the wax out of the peel.
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: sixball on November 18, 2024, 04:42:49 PM
Or all the years when the GM truck paint just peals off. My cousin in Texas painted all the pealed spots with whatever rattle can color he had and found out from his daughters that the kids in town.a pretty big town. called it the Clown Truck.  ;D
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: TFoch on November 18, 2024, 07:32:00 PM
Very nice!  Great workmanship!
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: Essex_29 on November 26, 2024, 05:51:07 AM
Thank you all!

I got the body hoisted onto the frame and all bolts fitted, nuts threaded on. Then I noticed
that the frame poked a blister into the rear of the body, so now I will have to move the body
back and lift it some 6 inches to get in with the grinder and cut off a sliver and try and get i
t back into position.
Never too easy.
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: TFoch on November 26, 2024, 07:38:40 AM
Sitting nice and low!  Looks great!
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: Rattiac on November 26, 2024, 08:12:34 AM
Can't wait to see it with the fenders on.  Gonna look so cool. 👍
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: sammons on November 26, 2024, 09:16:56 AM
Essex, there is always a bump in assembly. Usually something small, but a pain to back up and correct.

Looking good man!
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: Essex_29 on November 29, 2024, 04:11:15 PM
Thank you for the positive comments!

I just came in from the shop after having a bit of success. I lifted the body in the front, put some
wood between the body and the frame in front, then moved the hoist back, lifted and pulled backwards,
and got the rear end up some 6 inches. Then cut, ground and painted the ends of the frame rails,
then undid the lifting and sliding, got out the wood, and now 7 out of 8 bolts are back in.

The rubber pad cut from 1/8" thick rubber sheet at the last bolt hole had moved, and I just gave
up for tonight. Now I can hammer the blister back and smooth it over with some epoxy and filler. I
noticed some flaws in my bodywork around the right hand side rear wheelwell, so there's some
more bodywork pending anyway.
I caught a cold last sunday, and it's of the persistent kind, the last week hasn't been very productive.
I try to keep away from the garage, but that's no fun.

Keeping indoors, I got busy drawing and ordering stickers for the project. A custom tach gauge I'm
working on, a sticker for the Air Maze Air filters and some shop stickers I designed just for fun.
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: Essex_29 on December 09, 2024, 02:43:54 PM
After two weeks mostly being indoors, I'm trying to get back up to speed.
The body is now bolted to the frame. Driver's side door fits nicely, but the right hand door, not so
much. I need to get a shim under the B-pillar. It's impossible to work the body mout bolts
without a helping hand, so I will procrastinate with that task until someone comes and pays
me a visit.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick212e.jpg)

Today I mounted the steering shaft properly to the steering box, just the top most universal joint
is loose still, since I have to tidy up the steering column before final mounting.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick213.jpg)

My home made shifter with its white HURST ball is done and works great. It too has to be painted still.
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: sammons on December 09, 2024, 09:44:08 PM
Looking good!  Keep it up man 👍
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: Essex_29 on December 29, 2024, 03:44:41 PM
Thank you sammons.

I got some stickers that I drew and ordered. I like how the gold on black sticker fits right in.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick213a.jpg)

The original stickers were yellow with black and orange text.

I've been working on fitting everything into the cowl area. It felt like a lot of space to begin with, but
it will be pretty packed here when all is said and done.
The red knob at the top is the main battery switch, it will bare be visible under the dash. two fuse
boxes for a total of 14 fuses + a main fuse near the battery. The fuse boxes are mounted to the
front of the right hand A-pillar.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick213b.jpg)

Yesterday I made a sheet metal mount for the little ECU that will power my ignition, it's to the left
 of the clutch pedal assembly, also behind the dash.

The roof panel got done last night with holes for the wiper motor wiring drilled for rubber grommets, and
twin dome lights.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick213c.jpg)

The roof panel was bodyworked and primered today.

Now slowly working with wiring, plumbing and such.
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: Essex_29 on December 29, 2024, 03:57:01 PM
I got the clutch to work a few days ago. Feels like a win.
 No big thing in it self, but when I had made the hydraulic clutch line and got to the point when it
needed to be bled, I coouldn't get any fluid pumped up through the bleed screw and up to the fluid
container.
The next day I bought a bleeder thingy that works off the air compressor and sucks brake fluid
through the bleed screw and into its own contaner.
No fluid came through, and I had already taken the push rod away to check that the master piston
was indeed in its right position (pushrod fully out).
I took the bleed screw out after noticing that the slave cylinder started sweating brake fluid
around it.
Of course the bleed screw wasn't drilled right!
The holes were deep enough, but drilled so out of true, that they didn't meet. Ubelievable.
The quality we get on car parts nowadays...

Cost me at least an hour of work and a drive to  town for a lot of nothing. Good thing I work for free.
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: TFoch on December 30, 2024, 06:31:49 PM
I love how that roof panel turned out!  Nice work!
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: sammons on December 31, 2024, 10:01:33 AM
Love the decals! Real classy in black and gold. Everything is looking very nice.
Yep, quality is job one😒

Just got done installing a new brick moulding and new storm door on garage walk in. New HD closer and a spring chain stop which i didn't have before. Everything went smooth till the last step of the little spring that holds up the chain when door closed. Chinese instructions, all pics were of right hand open door except the last pic of spring. It was inverted, a left hand open door🙄 I turned a 3" spring into a 9"spring
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: Essex_29 on January 08, 2025, 04:11:04 PM
Thank you TFoch and samons.
Work has been real slow during the Christmas season, not only because of my lack of
inspiration, but more so because I have done so much thinking and planning. It seemed
 almost impossible  to get everything to fit under the dash, but I think I have most of it
figured out by now.

I got a new batch of Epoxy, the kind I use is sold in 2-1/2gallon cans, this time it will last
this project and then some.
I sprayed a light coat over the radiator, then painted it semi gloss black. Obviously it's not
ideal to paint a radiator, but it looks so much better in black. And behind the tube grille I
made earlier, it wouldn't look good at all, aluminumcolored.
The grille shell and visor were epoxied too.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick214.jpg)

I got lucky and got an answer to a wanted ad, and this new, unused in box Edelbrock carb
came today. The same kind as the 500 cfm one I have had for some time. These carbs cost
about $580 here in Europe, so finding an unused one privately was real nice.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick214a.jpg)

Finally, as my wife has been emptying her parent's house, she found some photos snapped
in the spring of 1991. Yours truly proudly posing with my 1970 Pontiac LeMans, working on
assembly after I painted it in my brother in law's garage.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick214p.jpg)
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: FATnLOW on January 08, 2025, 05:42:02 PM
So much work to bring these old cars back to life..I find  it satisfying and challenging.... Keep at it
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: TFoch on January 16, 2025, 07:39:55 PM
Awesome picture with your LeMans!
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: sixball on January 20, 2025, 06:05:44 PM
Great pictures. That is the carb I am running on my 270 GMC. It took tweaking a jetting beyond what is in the book to get it right but it runs well. That is a nice radiartor.
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: Rattiac on January 20, 2025, 09:19:45 PM
Nothing beats finding old pictures.  😊
Glad someone is making progress on thier car.  Jealous.  😉
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: Essex_29 on January 21, 2025, 02:37:18 PM
Thank you all, for the nice words!
I might have mentioned that I plan on getting this car on the road sometime this coming summer. I'd better keep on
ticking off items on the to do list if I will have the slightest chance to get there.

A ton of problemsolving and my energy levels low, it feels nothing much happens, but here's some  details done the
last few days anyway.

After filling and sanding, thinking it's done and primering three times, I finally gave up, it has to be good enough. 
I took the grille shell, visor and windshield frame  to the local paintshop. I decided that I won't paint this one myself,
it will be more fun in the long run to have the pint laid down by a pro.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick214b.jpg)

The visor in this pic, final block sanding still to do ( for the third time).

In this before and after pic the rusty grille shell with its emblem versus the final result from tonight's work.
 It's easy to forget how big the difference actually is, when you see the stuff you're
working on every day.
 
(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick214c.jpg)

The newly painted radiator shell, tube grille, painted radiator and block off screen. Radiator stays, lengthened
and painted, new carburetor. It's slowly coming together.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick214d.jpg)

Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: Essex_29 on February 16, 2025, 06:59:40 AM
The radiator had to come off again to make brackets for the electric fan. I didn't want to use
those cheesy plastic straps that go through the radiator.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick214e.jpg)

I got a universal style fan thermostat with an M22x1.5mm thread, and made a bung for it from
a nut, on the lathe.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick214f.jpg)

With this, the cooling system should be done, just some assembly required.
While there was ample room, I bench tested the alternator that I didn't have a pin out for. It
tured out to be a bit odd (to me), as it needs constant power feed from the ignition circuit and
 the alt lamp is just a function, not what excites the field. It's modern and it's Japanese, go figure.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick217.jpg)

This monster of a pic, shows how I got the huge hole in the side of my steering column plugged.
First, I had cut away all the ugly tilt and turn signal thingies, and ground away the ignition lock on
 the other side. I didn't want the column to look distinctly eighties GM (it's from a Buick, probably
 fwd, no shifter).
I used kitty hair bondo, fiber glass filler, and a one quart paint thinner can with brown tape on the
inside surface, to cast a new surface in the column. It worked! Some filler later I sprayed on some
primer. At least it looks better than it did before.
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: Essex_29 on February 16, 2025, 07:15:35 AM
I have been working on the electrics in my mind for a long time, drawing diagrams and also
done some shopping now and then. Suddenly the time has come to do something about it,
and as I'm doing it all from scratch, I stared off with mouting a row of relays under the
windsheld, took out a couple hundred connectors and cut short pieces of shrink tubing.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick216b.jpg)


Long story short,  last night I got all the nine relays and 14 fuses connected. The ECU that's going to
control spark is mounted and connected, the battery is in. The dash with all the lamps gauges
and switches and everything outside still to do.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick216c.jpg)
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: TFoch on February 17, 2025, 11:55:16 AM
Nice progress!  Good job wiring all that!
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: sammons on February 18, 2025, 06:26:22 AM
You've been busy!😃  I never thought those plastic fastners were a good idea for fans or trans coolers. Seems to me they would eventually rub a hole in the tubes🤔 I aways make brackets for attachment.

Those late 70s early 80s column with that ugly bump, (i call it a tumor) were a terrible idea. I buzz them or shift lever off, then grind a taper about an 1" around. Put some aluminum furnace tape inside the column as a backer, cut a piece of sheetmetal to fit the hole and JB or Loctite cold weld to bond, grind and top coat body filler for final. It's nice to see other options on here 👍

Keep at it!
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: Essex_29 on March 01, 2025, 01:49:22 PM
Thank you TFoch. I took care not to make all the wires "long enough", like I did when
wiring the Essex, it looked awful. Zip ties are probably not seen as "period correct", but
neither is most of this build anyway.
sammons Thank you,  I have to keep busy if I want to drive this coming summer.
Yes, it's good to gather small snippets of useful ideas when you see things done in differen
ways. When I made a new bumper for my Oldsmobile Cutlass, someone told me that 3M
brown packaging tape is good to use as a release agent for fiber glass, and it works a charm.

I finally got the Engine started today!
Here's a short clip from the third start after adjusting the ignition timing some. The throttle
response is not bad for an unadjusted dual quad.  It will be interesting to see how it works
when under load.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jVBdHScDP0U
 (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jVBdHScDP0U)

The wheels are at the sand blaster's now, so no driving yet.
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: sixball on March 04, 2025, 12:59:24 PM
Sounds Great!!
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: Rattiac on March 04, 2025, 01:44:14 PM
Gonna be hard keeping tires on that.  😉
Sounds bitchin.  Subbed. 
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: EDNY on March 04, 2025, 05:46:13 PM
Really sounds great - great throttle response also!
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: sammons on March 04, 2025, 07:08:06 PM
Sounds awsome, great job Essex🙂
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: Essex_29 on March 07, 2025, 03:58:40 PM
Thank you all, for the great support!
The engine sounds different for sure, and of course this has been a goal all in itself. I've always
gone for a bit of a dare to be different-approach .
The snappy throttle response is a bonus, and no doubt due to the very light weight, about 10 lb
aluminum flywheel. The exhaust sound will probably be very different outside, with a complete exhaust system.

Of course I've been starting the engine a few times over the last few days, and noticed a couple leaks.
A nasty looking oil puddle under the bell housing every time I filled oil or ran the engine, it didn't look great.
I also noticed a leak at the rear of the right hand side valve cover, and when I took it off, I noticed that a corner
of it was bent. A bit of massaging improved things, and some silicone gasket sealant  sealed the deal, so to
say, because that cured the crank leak too. Apparently the oil got wicked down between the engine block
and that transmission adapter, and dripped out at the bottom of the bell housing. I think I just saved myself
 a crank seal job.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick218b.jpg)

The other leak is at the electric cooling fan thermostat. Some coolant seeps out, so I will have to drain the
coolant and get something done to seal it properly.

I got the wheels back from the sand blaster's where they got blasted and sprayed with epoxy. Some sanding
and paiting coming up soon.
I've thought long and hard about the color choice, ideas ranging from "gold chrome" powder coating, though
gold metallic and black gloss.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick218a.jpg)

For now I've pretty much  decided on black wheels with gold metallic holes.
I really like black wheels, that was also my original plan. On top of that I've looked at a ton of pics of black
cars with gold color wheels, and black cars with black wheels. To me the black wheels look better every time.

Unless I change my mind again.

Replaced a brand new wheel bearing yesterday. I found out that my Moser drive shafts are meant to
work with C-clip eliminators, not the original style wheel bearings. I decided to go with the stock drive
shafts, and changed to a repair bearing on the driver's side.
I ordered new studs, and the new old driveshafts have to be redrilled for 5 on 5-1/2" bolt pattern.
One could be fooled into thinking that I enjoy doing things twice.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick218.jpg)
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: sammons on March 08, 2025, 09:32:16 AM
Glad you found the oil leak with out major pull down. 👍

I've bought several cars cheap because mechanics said engine pull due to rear main leak. Valve covers are the first thing i look at.
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: Essex_29 on March 12, 2025, 03:24:01 PM
Yes, sammons, You'd better try working from the simpler and cheaper end of the possibilities.
A loose torque converter will easily make one think the engine is shot. Guess how I learned to use thread
locker on converter bolts. Luckily I made an educated guess that time, so it was a very easy fix.

So, I've been painting. All in all it took me four days, sanding, then painting first the back side, the other
side, masking, painting the gold and finally gloss clear. The result looks promising now, but I'll see
for real tomorrow, when the clear has hardened.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick218c.jpg)
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: sammons on March 14, 2025, 02:10:31 PM
Lol, just last week a buddy and i were talking about those lose converter bolts, ran across several. I bought a 77-78 Chevy 1/2 ton from a local in the mid late 80s. He had been to a couple mechanic, both said rod knock. He stopped by the shop and ask if i would buy it, he couldn't afford an overhaul but liked the truck. I bought it and a week later i checked it out...   loose converter bolts. Tightened and solved knock. I called him up and told him i'd give him the pu back if he wanted. He brought my money back and was thrilled. He did mention he had a transmission installed 6 months earlier. He thanked me for my honesty and give me $100 bill for my trouble.😁

I love black and gold colors to gether. All of mine i kept polished with the slots painted black. Never thought of painting the rest.
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: Essex_29 on March 20, 2025, 03:46:51 PM
Nice of you sammons to sell him the truck back, and nice of him to give you a token of appreciation too.

I got the tires on the rims today. Fun with another detail
that's making things look a tiny bit closer to done.
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: Essex_29 on April 04, 2025, 05:26:09 PM
It's hard to see any progress, even as I spend most night working on this project.
I'm a tinkerer, I don't work efficiently.
Anyway, I got the fuel tank installed, hole cut in the floor for the fuel line, the return line plugged
for the time being, and the vent line running up to the roof, through a small fuel filter, to filter
out dust from the moving air, and back down and out through the floor.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick219.jpg)

The filler is of course connected too, the cap from an old bus is right below the rear window.
As the fuel pump turned out to be very loud, I mounted it on the outside of the frame on soft
rubber stands. It's a bit less obnoxious now.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick219a.jpg)

Dual crome fuel lines snake up from a T-fitting under the floor, and are held in position with a
home made double P-clamp I made from a piece of brass sheet I found in my grandfather's
shed when we cleaned it out many years ago.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick219b.jpg)

Finally, this last week I've been making the brake lines, bench bleeding the master cylinder, mounting
it to the brake booster with its pushrod and finally worked with endless leaks.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick220.jpg)

This is the brake proportioning valve, and for some reason I just could not get one of the brake lines
to seal. I remade the double flair a couple times, I got it better, but it still kept weeping fluid.
I had a shop make a new line with their high end tooling, and finally got it to seal, Then I noticed the
 cupper washer on the other end was weeping too. I took out the fitting, filed it a bit shorter so it
wouldn't bottom out before the washer got crushed tight, mounted it using a new washer and
probably too much torque.
Now it's not leaking anywhere, and we finally have brakes!

Original drive shaftsdrilled for 5on4-1/2" mounted with new bearings, differential filled with oil, Pinion
angle adjusted, prop shaft mounted, all bolts and nuts torqued down.
In the best case scenario, there will be a test drive in my near future.
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: TFoch on April 04, 2025, 08:00:23 PM
You say you're tinkering.  I see it as attention to detail!  Nice work!
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: sammons on April 08, 2025, 09:00:37 PM
Ya, i'd say your just motoring right along on that!
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: Essex_29 on April 16, 2025, 03:33:53 PM
Thank you for your support, sammons and TFoch, because that's exactly what I need right now.

The day after I made my last post, the proportioning valve was weeping brake fluid again. I changed the
copper gasket to an aluminum one, then with no improvement, changed o a new copper one, and still leaking.

I wrote to the speed shop I bought the proportioning valve from, and asked for advice.
 They sent me another valve with no questions asked. When that valve too leaked from exactly the same
copper seal, I got annoyed, this has to be an issue with these valves.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick220a.jpg)

I called and sent them this pic along with a couple other ones. After less than an hour I got a text saying
that my new Wilwood (more expensive) valve was sent along with a paid lable for returning the two bad valves.
That's what you get for trying to be cheaping out to save like $45 on a project that costs tens of thousands anyway.
Along the way, in desperation I bought a really good brake line double flairing tool. Next time it will be fun to make
new brakelines, I took out and made three new ones just to try the tool out. Much neater results.

So now for the Nth time nothing leaks, the brand new Wilwood proportioning valve is mounted and I
have depressed the brake pedal for some time, still not finding any leaks. Maybe one day I can get
the brake system bled too, a task that I was going to get done two weeks ago.

Leaking brakes is not a big deal, but when I seemingly couldn't get it fixed, it took a huge chunk out of my inspiration.
It's not like this is my first time making a brake system...
Two weeks all but wasted, but hoping for no leaks tomorrow, a deep breath, and then to get back up to speed.
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: TFoch on April 17, 2025, 07:31:36 AM
I'm glad the vendor took care of you!  We don't always get good customer service.  Hope all stays dry!
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: sammons on April 17, 2025, 10:55:43 AM
Quality control is almost non existant these days. Glad the upgraded Wilwood is holding so far. Thumbs up to vendor for stepping up to make it right, rare anymore.

Had that happen on an Impala i sold wayback. Reman alternator, went thru three, resopnse was it was my wiring. Put an old used one and it worked fine. 😡
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: Essex_29 on April 21, 2025, 03:43:44 PM
TFoch, This vendor did it all the way!
I got the new Wilwood brake proportioning valve, (to which they had had already mounted the
right hardware to fit the brakelines I made earlier for the cheapo valves) as I mentioned earlier.
No leaks. After checking that everything is good, I sent the bad valves back to the vendor  using
the prepaid ( free to me) label.
I messaged them yesterday, sunday asking how to pay the balance. I got an answer immediately
telling me that I can keep that as pay for the unnecessary work with the no good valves.
How amazing is that?!

sammons, that's so annoying,  when you know  there's not an issue with the car,
but with the new part. Reminds me, I had a friend who had mounted his second new alternator,
which still didn't alternate. I noticed that his alternator light didn't light up when I turned
on the ignition. Turns out he didn't know that you actually have to have a functioning alternator
light to get the alternator excited. Not related, but it was kinda funny.

So the brake issue finally out of the way, the easter break was all used up working on mounting the
seats and the exhaust.
The driver's side seat is mounted and ready for a test drive, the passenger seat is waiting
for me to invent a better mouting system for decent access to the rear seat.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick221a.jpg)

The exhausts are done, I went out of my way to make then so  that are theoretically going
to sound awesome. The different length pipes will make for a very nice exhaust note.
Or it won't. No way to tell before a test drive.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick221.jpg)

I've used plastic truck brake line for fuel line from the tank to the fuel pump. The right hand
exhaust is too close the the fuel line to feel  right, so I'll have to pull the tank and make a
metal fuel line instead. Otherwise the truck brake line works perfectly, in case anyone's
wondering, I used it on my Pontiac, and it's still good after almost 14 years.
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: sixball on April 21, 2025, 08:30:47 PM
Great progress!
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: Essex_29 on April 23, 2025, 04:28:50 PM
Thank you sixball.

I got in the new copper fuel line yesterday, better routed that the old one, sealed the holes
around the tubes with body sealant, and today when the sealant had set, I put the tank back
in, connected the lines, filler tube and ground wire for the fuel gauge.

While I was at it, I welded a few bolts to the tank hold downs and the rear of the body.
A tank cover of sorts can be mounted to these to tidy up the space between the rear
seat back and window.

Small steps, a feel good step as there's a possibility that the tank can stay now.
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: sammons on April 23, 2025, 07:45:28 PM
A guy tries to get the big stuff outta the way, but all those small things end up taking more time than the big.

Your moving right along.
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: Essex_29 on April 28, 2025, 02:28:13 PM
That's so true sammons, there's always a plethora of little things that have to be done
before every bigger (fun) step of the way, and the little things are either not fun, or just
otherwise take forever to get done.

I ordered a pair of springs for the rear suspension. They are coil over springs, mounted to
the air bag mounts. At some point I decided to not bother with the added complexity that
air suspension brings. I bougt the adjusters for cheap, and the springs can be ordered in
a ton of different lengths and stiffnesses. Perfect, in case you know what the car weighs.
I don't, so I put my finger in my mouth, wet it and felt for the breeze. Yup: 6 kilograms per
millimeter. It's a lot of lbs per inch. Makes not much sense, but I had  to start somewhere.
At least I got it to something close to rideheight, we'll just have to see how they perform.
Pic was shot before I made the final spring mounts, why the spring looks crooked here.
Exhaust mounted too.
 

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick221b.jpg)

I had to order new front springs fom RockAuto. They are mounted now too. The wife helped
bleeding the brakes, which leaves the busings in the front suspension to be tightened.
Fuel in the tank. And some more, I'm sure.
The first test drive is so close.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick222.jpg)
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: TFoch on April 28, 2025, 03:08:36 PM
Wow! Very cool!
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: sammons on April 29, 2025, 07:29:30 AM
Looking sharp Essex👍
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: Essex_29 on April 29, 2025, 02:55:29 PM
Thank you TFoch and sammons

Today is the day I've been waiting for!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HZW09tQgJgs (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HZW09tQgJgs)

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick222a.jpg)
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: TFoch on April 29, 2025, 04:34:11 PM
Congratulations! That thing sounds awesome!
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: sammons on April 30, 2025, 05:54:35 AM
Looks great, sounds great!  Man thats a major milestone in my books. 👍

If i would have got that far on my coupe, i wouldn"t have had to let it go 😪
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: FATnLOW on May 01, 2025, 09:34:15 AM
Its a thrill to go on the first startup and drive, even if just a little drive out of the shop..good job
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: sixball on May 01, 2025, 02:40:03 PM
Very cool! Sounds great. Congratulations!
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: Essex_29 on May 10, 2025, 06:41:07 AM
Thank you all very much for your comments!

It's been fun starting the engine, discussing things and stuff with friends who've been coming
over to take a look, but the steam ran out of me, I have had a hard time to get anything done.
But it's been fun.

My grandkid took'er out for a ride, around the neigbourhood ( I live in the sticks). I'm certain
she's doing sixty here racing down our dirt road *big grin*

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buickAV.jpg)

Jokes aside, I got the window templates made from masonite board, and ordered the lot yesterday.
1/4" thick laminated glass, total cost estimate 400 ?uros, which would equal $450.
In 2008 a similar lot of windows for the Essex cost 150?, it's a pretty big price gain.

I'll have to take another look at the ToDo-list...

Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: sixball on May 14, 2025, 12:07:31 AM
She's doing at least 60.
When my son & I put his '54 Studebaker together and were on our way to Texas for his first year of college we stoped in Reno to have the windows put in the doors. We worked on it every evening on the way and I stayed a week to finish up some things while he started school. The next spring I flew back to Lubbock and we drove it home. We did that several times. Best road trips ever.
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: TFoch on May 14, 2025, 06:26:47 AM
Serious driver there!
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: Essex_29 on May 15, 2025, 03:02:35 PM
Sounds great sixball, roadtrips are things one always remembers.

Fender work today. I cut 9" wide slices of sheet metal to weld to the rear
fenders, to widen them and to get rid of most of the rust. One of the slices,
once rolled on a slip roller, was tacked to the driver's side rear fender, and
it's now trial fitted with sheet metal screws. Looks pretty good so far, but
 the back end of the fenders need a lot of work.
Front fenders are just resting on a two by eight on top of the front tire.
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: sammons on May 16, 2025, 07:09:19 AM
Lookin good Essex. Are you going to have to build you running board with a wider taper to the rear fender?
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: Essex_29 on May 16, 2025, 04:49:12 PM
Actually, sammons, I don't think I will have to.
I wouldn't want to make them tapered anyway, I think the rear fenders being a bit wider than
 the running board would look better. Especially if I cover the running boards with striped rubber,
 that wouldn't work very well with a tapered runningboard.
I'll probably kow in a few days.
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: Essex_29 on May 19, 2025, 02:26:07 PM
The apron trial mounted tonight, cut and adjusted to fit
against the rear fender.
It looks now, like the runningboard will be about 2? narrower
than the rear fender. I still wouldn?t like to make the runningboards
tapered, I might make some kind of turn out at the fender.
Design is always an interesting challenge.

Also, the whole car looks big now? or maybe it?s just me gettong
dizzy from standing up suddenly after laying on the floor
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: sammons on May 21, 2025, 07:48:31 AM
Looking good!  I was just curious as to which way you were going. I've seen stock, tapered, flared at rear on widened rear fenders. What did you use to make the bend in the apron? I've used everything from bending over a pipe to an oxygen bottle. You use what you have😁  Ya, you look at one so long with out fenders and once they are on, it looks bigger till you get use to it again. Looks right to me👍
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: Essex_29 on May 21, 2025, 03:24:58 PM
Thank you sammons.

Yes, you take what you get. I actually made those aprons for the Essex in 2007. Along the years, I've
often thought about cutting material out of them for one rust repair or the other, but they were a
chore to bend, so I never did, and now they happen to fit the Buick perfectly. I was very surprised,
since the Buick feels bigger than the Essex, but apparently not by much.

The guy whom I bought the Essex from in 2003 was restoring an Essex and had bent his aprons on
a sheet metal brake, which looked awful, and would need lots of bondo. I thought for a bit, then
took a 8" by 2" plank, long as the aprons, and cut the round shape with a handheld power planer.
Then Iclamped it to the plank, bent, hammered, hit it with pieces of two by fours and willed the
19GA sheetmetal around the shape of the plank. THe result is pretty nice, as the round shape is
much rounder in the front than closer to the rear wheel, where it tucks in under the body.
Simple, really, but it was a chore.

The same apron on the Essex here.

(http://www.waasadata.com/essex/bild/13_5.jpg)

Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: Essex_29 on May 21, 2025, 03:43:55 PM
My rod builder buddy noticed that the driver's side rear wheel is further forward , closer to the front
 of the wheel well, than the right hand one. We measured it to about 3/4".
Today I measured it with some accuracy, to the frame, not the wheel wells, and got to the result
 that it's actually just 3/32".
The body is scewed, maybe in part from a collision, but the cowl is so out of square, that I feel
it's "factory" Accuracy on these cars wasn't a huge thing.

The Essex frame horns, in front of the grille where they bend down towards the front leaf spring
eyelet, the left hand frame bent down over one inch less than the right hand one, and I couldn't
 find anyevidence  accidents. Took me a while to figure out why I couldn't get things squared up.
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: TFoch on May 23, 2025, 05:06:14 PM
Looking good!
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: sixball on May 24, 2025, 12:50:18 PM
Looking good! Just a thought but would it work to narrow the rear fender at the bottom to meet the running board instead of making the running board wider?
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: Essex_29 on May 28, 2025, 03:48:00 PM
That might be a solution, sixball, thank you for the idea. I had, for the longest time, though that
the width would be about the same front and rear at the fenders, but I kinda forgot that I changed to
much wider rear wheels during the build. The first steelies I had were widened to 10" and modified
to zero offset. The 11" slotmags have about 4" backspacing, so the difference is noticeable.

After a few days of right out procrastination I started working on the rear fenders again. I widened them some
3-1/2" in the back to get the wheel centered in the fender, so now a filler is needed
between the fender and the body. Again just because I changed to diffeent wheels.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick223g.jpg)

I worked on this filler piece tonight, and tried to test the look in Photoshop.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick223f.jpg)

It might look decent if I can get some kind of a round transition to the fender done.
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: TFoch on May 28, 2025, 06:34:18 PM
I like it!
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: sixball on May 31, 2025, 02:04:25 AM
Looks good
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: sammons on May 31, 2025, 06:29:23 AM
Lol, a piece here and there and then it's done😁   Most people have no idea what it takes to build a car, it's a lot of little things. It's looking good Essex.
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: Essex_29 on June 08, 2025, 03:42:40 PM
Thank you all.
Yes, sammons, I think not many who haven?t built a hot rod can
understand how much time goes into every little part and detail.

Here?s how the fender filler turned out in reality, the pic in the last post was
a photoshop mock up to see how it might look. I think it?ll look okay when
everything is painted.
Tonight I ground off the rust on the inside and the paint off the outside of
the RH fender. Tedious work, but I?m about half way done with the rust
grinding, just the front fenders to go.

Sorry, pics are sideways
I still want to make the rear of the fenders tuck in a smidge tighter to the wheel, so the rear fenders are far from done.
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: sixball on June 08, 2025, 06:17:27 PM
That is working out fine.
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: TFoch on June 09, 2025, 07:11:07 AM
Looks great!
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: Essex_29 on June 18, 2025, 04:03:08 PM
Thank you sixball and TFoch.
The shape of the rear fenders is not really to my liking, so I
started cutting.
Pics tell it all. Fenders are too long and need to be tighter.
I started doing pie cuts every one and a half inches, and got it to
look a bit better.
Now the edge is not a smooth curve.
I cut a narrow curved part out of sheet metal to mimick a fender
edge and fastened wit a couple sheet metal screws.
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: Essex_29 on June 18, 2025, 04:14:49 PM
I just got the new fender edges bead rolled. This is pretty exciting work,
first time for everything.
I really hope this will work out decent. I rolled both the outside edges,
and the inside ones, the ones that look shorter in the pic.
Of course most of these pieces will be cut away, the bulk of the material
is there just to provide rigidity so they wouldn?t get very distorted while
beadrolling and making the new edge.
Originally the edge is made by rolling the sheet metal around a steel wire,
But since the resulting original round edge is about 1/4? thick, I?ll just weld
a 1/4? thick wire to the new fender edge. Hope it works.
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: TFoch on June 18, 2025, 05:18:30 PM
That looks much better!  Nice work!
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: sammons on June 20, 2025, 02:52:03 PM
Looks good Essex! I must not have seen that in earlier picks. It sure had a kick out. Sure looks good now!

Nice job on bending up the edge lip. Those can be tough.
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: Essex_29 on July 03, 2025, 01:16:21 PM
I'm taking a break from this project, doing summer things, but just had to try
to make the rolled edge on one of the four pieces in my last post.
The 1/4" bar I'm using is surprisingly stiff, but I got it persuaded into submission
for long enough to weld it in.
The edge seen from the inside in the bottom center.
It looks pretty much the same as the original, which was a thinner steel wire that
the edge was rolled around.
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: TFoch on July 04, 2025, 08:46:28 AM
Very nice!
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: Essex_29 on August 02, 2025, 12:04:13 PM
After completing a ton och chores and service work on the yard and all, I took the time
to work some on the rear fenders.

The1/4" bar welded to the new driver's side fender edge piece.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick223h.jpg)

The old fender edge cut away to ease replacement. The back end of the fender is fixed
to the front of the fender and to the floor.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick223ha.jpg)

The pie cut fender for reference, or  "before" shot.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick223i.jpg)

The new edge tacked into place.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick223j.jpg)

The curve of the fender edge or lip looks fairly smooth and consistent now.
A lot of welding, grinding and hammering to do, but so far it looks promising.
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: sammons on August 03, 2025, 08:02:48 AM
Lol, a ton of yard work, man i mean. I don't remember such a wet summer in a decade here. August and everything still green, mowing every 4 days. Western Kansas hasn't been known for humidity, feels like the damn Ozarks this year.  🥵

Glad your back on it. Looks like you got it figured out good. Looking good!
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: Essex_29 on September 21, 2025, 01:31:29 PM
Back on track, summer is over and garage time is a priority again.
I just had to get me a new toy to fully enjoy summer, so I went and bought a 1985 TransAm
with a high output 305 and manual transmission, WS6 curvy road option, T-tops and AC delete.
Fun car, especially after I put in a new distributor and got it running right.

(http://www.waasadata.com/essex/bild/other32.jpg)

So, back in the shop I continued on the rear fender, cut it down a bit where it had a bit of a bulge
and welded things together again, ground the welds and rolled it on the English Wheel today.
After some hammer and dolly work it looks okay, except for the last two inches in the back, which
will be adjusted later to get a similar shape as the other fender.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick223k.jpg)

I've planned to draw a concept drawing for the longest time, all since I bought the Buick back in
the fall of 2019. I finally got one done friday night.
The head lights are still missing, I think I'll just try to get them mounted as low and as  far back
as possible, when the front fenders are done.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick224.jpg)
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: sammons on September 22, 2025, 07:45:53 AM
Essex i'm glad you took some time off to have some summer cruising in Firechicken🙂 I was hopeing you didn't jumpship on us with your Buick project. I think your the only one posting a real project right now. Many have finished or stalled on theirs.

Your rear fenders are really taking on a nice shape. Car is coming along.

Thats another thing i miss, sketching. I'm lucky to hold a pen long enough to write a check, poor gals at the bank trying to figure out what i was trying to write😁  Your sketch looks nice!
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: Essex_29 on September 25, 2025, 09:58:31 AM
Thank you sammons
No jump shipping going on.

I'll share some summer going ons here.
We had a great summer, if you don't mind it raining most of four weeks in June.
That's when we had a UFO kind of sighting on the field next to our house. Like the
 crop cicles in the UK in the eighties. Proof of out of this world life? I was going to
sell tickets for the public to get to se it, but surprisingly no one seemed interested.
(first pic.)

The tractor stalled in the middle of the yard last winter, and gettig it running was one
of the summer thingsI had to get done. Predictable, it was crud in the fuel tank, probably
 from fueling the poor old thing up from jugs and farmer tanks for the last 60 years.
(middle pic.)

I would so like to design a sporty or racy car around the 3rd gen Firebird. KITT here as
an example and my concept under it for comparison.
The rear window (which doesn't look good to me) is covered on the sides with fast back
Mustang style side louvers, the rear window also covered with "cat steps". most of the
plastic in the back is cut away, and the rear of the car is made to look late sixties firebird 
but with round tai llights. just because I like round tail lights.
The front is made to somewhat resemble a 1969 Firfebird, the hood is not as sloped as
 it was. The the only technical modification: The front axle is moved forward five inches
or so, to make it look right.
To me it looks like some kind of histori TransAm car. It would be fun, because no one
would know what it is.
Yeah, I've got ideas. Lots of ideas.
(bottom pic.)
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: sammons on September 26, 2025, 07:16:22 AM
Too bad there are so many hoaxsters, it would be nice to know if that stuff was real,  (out of this world created).
When i was in high school there was a UFO sighting 35 miles SW of us for 2 nights. Just north of another small town. On the 3rd night a bunch of us grabbed beer and loaded up to go check it out. A buddy drove us down in a fadded gold 71 Delta Olds 88 4dr HT, his dad had ground down there. We parked up on a hill to watch over the valley. We didn"t see anything for couple hours just people driving all over down there. We were parked sideways, and i told Joe to turn the dome light on, i was looking for another beer. He did and drew attention. He blinked his park lights several times and everybody headed towards. I told him not to turn his lights on and not to touch brakes and get outta here. Lol we were the UFO sighting that night😁

You always need them tractors when they are down.

That gen 3 would look much better that way 👍
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: Essex_29 on September 26, 2025, 01:55:38 PM
Hehe, that was funny, sammons, I would assume most UFO sightings are like that.
I wonder about the crop circles, though. I'm pretty sure they're hoaxes, but very well exectuted
real works of art. And sadly, if I'm being really honest, even better than mine.
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: Essex_29 on October 13, 2025, 02:24:21 PM
I've been at it in the garage a few fairly short evenings, making some progress on the endless fenders.
Last night I felt I was doing good, had it all welded, ground and done, save for a little piece in the front
that I'm planning on doing later, to have it connect nicely with the running board.
New fender edge pieces, inside and out, even the tail lip done. Looked pretty good to me right then.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick223l.jpg)

Today after dinner I went out in the shop and was going to start working on the left hand side inside
fender edge, when I realized that I have to start over. The fenders don't look the same, and I much
prefer the left fender, as the right hand one looks too tightly tucked behind the wheel. If you look
closely you might notice that the wheel sits a bit further back on the right hand side. The body is not
square in a way that I think would be impossible to not be a factory defect.
Fact remains, so I just have to make the best of it.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick223m.jpg)

Two steps forward, one back...
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: Essex_29 on October 13, 2025, 02:28:20 PM
Hope you can see the pics here. For some reason they show on my phone, but not on my computer.
I hotlink pics from my home page, I have no idea why they quit showing  some time ago.

Here the pics are, uploaded tho the forum:
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: TFoch on October 14, 2025, 07:23:35 AM
I can see the difference. Perfection takes time!
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: Essex_29 on October 15, 2025, 02:53:56 PM
This is not perfection,  TFoch, it's self protection.  When you know something
doesn't look okay, if you don't make it right, it's going to bug you until you get rid of the car.
Otherwise, if one can make it smooth with filler, it's good enough.

My best rod builder buddy was going to come visit me today, in the garage and
discuss how to get the fenders done. I had planned to do some adjustments before
he came, and realized that when I move the front of the fender, the whole thing shifts.
Of course it does, but sometimes the bulb just doesn't light up.
So, the obvious thing to do is to mount the running boards and get the aprons ready
to fit the fenders. I measured the running boards and ajusted so they were parallel,
then made a runningboard to rear fender mount from some angle iron, adjusted
things till all fit, drilled a bunch of holes and bolted everything down on the right hand side.

The driver's side is just loosely fitted.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick225.jpg)

The right hand side looks pretty good and the whole car seemed to grow a bit when I
got the apron and running board mounted.
The running boards are still too wide, and will be cut down a bit, the right hand one is
also still too long and will be cut down later.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick225a.jpg)
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: sammons on October 17, 2025, 07:16:11 AM
I didn't notice it till you pointed that out. You are cetainly right, if you know where its at it will drive you crazy till you fix it. Dad use to laugh at me on that. "Your the only one that will see that, unless you point it out. They can only see one side at a time anyway".    Ya, but i'll know it's there and can't settle for that😁 

Your still making good progress!👍
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: Essex_29 on October 17, 2025, 02:51:10 PM
Thank you sammons, everything can be considered progress. Sometimes when you
have to redo something it's not that fun, but it's still progress, because if you hadn't done it
 today, you'd have to do it tomorrow.
Trying my darnest to stay positive.

I mounted the driver's side running board  yesterday. Makes me wonder how many times i
have mounted and taken the fenders off the body.
Today I started tweaking the driver's side fender, and noticed that when you push the inner
fender edge forward to make the fender line up with the other one, the outer fender edge
shifts outward, making the fender look like it's sqewed. This made me cut through most of
 the fender to adjust it in the opposite direction of the reaction.
It's kinda endless, every adjustment makes other parts of the fender go out of adjustment,
making it a lot of back and forth.

I finally got the fender to look like it fits decently, and turned to the right hand side fender.
I cut it up at multiple spots to get it to look a bit more like the other fender, measured and measured.
I finally cut the back part of the fender off, and stretched it 15/32".
Now it looks better, I might leave it like this. It's just tacked in place for now, I'll decide tomorrow.
I took a ton of pics, flipping some of them to see if they fenders look alike when seen by
eachother in the pics.
It's not driving me nuts yet, not yet...
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: TFoch on October 17, 2025, 03:50:35 PM
Matching fenders! Looks great!
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: Essex_29 on October 23, 2025, 12:16:44 AM
Thank you TFoch.

Last night I got another new piece of fender lip welded to the right hand fender that I, once again, had cut up and sliced as per my last post. This time it looks okay, and It's good enough.
I've put a couple evening's worth of work on the driver's side fender too.
Very slow progress but any day now, I can go on to something else. About time.
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: sammons on October 23, 2025, 09:18:06 AM
Essex, getting there👍  Ahh, the motivation to yourself. As soon as i get this done i can move on to the next. 😁
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: Essex_29 on October 26, 2025, 04:57:10 PM
Gotta stay motivated, sammons.
Finally the rear fenders are done.
I welded a bunch of pinholes, ground and hammered and dollied.
I took the fenders off the car and ground things more, as good as I could, hammered more, then
 painted red primer as a guide coat and block sanded the fenders, hammering from the
inside and the outside, sanded more.
Ooff, it looks so much easier when they do it on youtube.
When I felt I had done what I could, I slip rolled  1/8" by 3/4" flatbar to hold the inside fender
edges tight to the wheel opening, drilled holes for the screws and mounted it all back
to the body.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick223q.jpg)

There's still some red on the fenders, and of course I didn't get it all smooth, but an
undisclosed amount of filler will help, I'm sure.
Now I'm ready to get on with the front fenders.

I took a pic of some left over pieces of old and new fender edges.
The original has a wire, around which the fender lip is rolled. My new ones are just a
1/4" round bar welded to the fender lip. The result looks almost factory.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick223p.jpg)
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: TFoch on October 26, 2025, 06:27:23 PM
Sounds like progress!
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: sammons on October 27, 2025, 08:28:45 AM
Looking good man! It's worth the extra time to be happy with it. Lip bead looks great, i aways used #9 clothes line wire in the same way on my lips after fighting trying to roll the metal around it.
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: Essex_29 on November 16, 2025, 02:40:54 PM
Thank you TFoch and sammons, for your positive feedback!
I had a bit of a lazy couple weeks here, turning 60 about then days ago, having a small
coffee and cake party for a few friends, then generally being lazy for a while.

I  got myself dragged to the garage in the last couple weekends, and got a litte
something done.

A friend came with the brilliant idea to hang the front fenders off the front spring towers.
I cut out this oddity from a 3/8" thick plate. Two of  the bolts are through holes, the
third, outermost bolt is welded to the tower.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick225b.jpg)

I made a slim fender mount and put it right over the top of he wheel, since it's least in
the way there, where the wheel sits when it's pointed straight ahead. It's fully welded
at this time, and the whole fender feels fairly sturdy.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick225d.jpg)

The fender was fastened to the new fender brace with a sheet metal screw to keep it
lengthwise in situ, while it was jigged up and the rear end of the fender was cut off
and a new fender to runningboard mount was made from angle iron, bolted the the
runningboard, and tacked to the fender.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick225c.jpg)

I made the part that effectively widens the fender and mounts against the apron today,
it has a flange against the apron and it will be mounted with 1/4" UNC bolts and nuts.
The result is that the fender is moved out from the apron about 1-1/2" compared to stock.
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: sammons on November 17, 2025, 07:24:19 PM
Great idea for the fender hanger and mount👍

Looking good and more progress🙂
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: Essex_29 on November 30, 2025, 01:36:41 PM
Thank you sammons.

The fender was flattned and in a pretty sorry state, and I wanted it to look a bit deeper than it did so
more fender edges to make.
I made a few versions before I liked the look. Then I beadrolled and welded on the 1/4" round bar to
the edge. Tried in its place here, it looks like it might fit.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick225e.jpg)

After cutting the edge old edge off the fender to be able to work with the new part I cut away most
 of the surplus material and tacked the new edge to the fender. 

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick225f.jpg)

It looks like this might work okay. I'll tack in the inner fenderlip too, then it's time to check, again, that the
wheel still has ample room to steer and move.
I also drew some stainless parts in CAD to frame the header pipes where they go down through
the fender. Very time consuming to draw, when you do it just on occation and never really got
used to it.
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: Essex_29 on December 02, 2025, 03:08:08 PM
Inner fender edge coming along pretty nicely now too.
That 1/4? round bar is a chore to bend, but the result
is worth it.
Someone who hasn?t been working on these old cars
Probably can?t imagine how not straight the shapes on
them are. The fender lip had to be bent all kinds of
ways to look somewhat right.
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: TFoch on December 02, 2025, 03:15:10 PM
Wow that is looking great!
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: sammons on December 02, 2025, 05:13:42 PM

Someone who hasn?t been working on these old cars
Probably can?t imagine how not straight the shapes on
them are.

^^^^^^Thats a fact!

Looking really good there Essex👍
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: Essex_29 on December 06, 2025, 04:11:14 PM
Thank you TFoch and sammons.
It turns out working on these front fenders involves plenty of hours per square foot of sheet metal.
The innner fender lip seems to be coming okay. We'll see how it turns out, the right hand side fender
will have to look similar to the left one, there might be some adjustments to do when that time comes.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick225fa.jpg)

I had cut the back end of the new fender lip some 3/8" too short, I made a new pece and cut out
what I needed, then welded and ground.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick225g.jpg)

The fender back on the car, I started working on the fender to apron transition. It took me some
time to get some kind of workable idea to make this transition, it has to be  fairly neat and easy
to make and also it has to be possible to take the fenders off the car.
Baby steps, this is a start, but at least I have a plan.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick225h.jpg)

This sheetmetal part  that kind of frames the exhaust primaries as they go down through the fender
will be part of the fender itself. The  wheel can be seen from above here, it's turned left as much as
it goes, and a hump has to be made in the fender to make room for wheel to turn freely.

(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/buick225i.jpg)
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: sammons on December 08, 2025, 04:32:19 PM
Comimg along, nice work!
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: FATnLOW on December 08, 2025, 04:55:17 PM
Nice good job
Title: Re: 1930 Buick V12 build
Post by: sixball on December 08, 2025, 09:01:18 PM
Great work! I have lost track of what sheetmetal changes you have made. I need togo back through the thread.
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