Rusty Bowtie
General Category => General Discussion - Intros => Topic started by: munch on December 31, 2015, 11:33:42 AM
-
Well it is New Year's Eve and what am I doing, thinking about future projects. Sorry for all the questions, but the mind never stops.
In my 1930 Coach the windshield is fixed and I am thinking they were originally on a regulator where it could be raised or lowered. Being fixed is fine with me, but I have to replace the windshield at some point because of a crack and want to reinstall the new one correctly. Currently there is a bottom rubber channel and two side rubber channels. The top of the windshield is just pressed into the body metal with adhesive. When I try to locate rubber installation kit, all I find is for a roll up windshield. I don't think that is the same.
Has anyone had any experience with mounting a stationary windshield in a 1930?
Thanks
-
Well it is New Year's Eve and what am I doing, thinking about future projects. Sorry for all the questions, but the mind never stops.
In my 1930 Coach the windshield is fixed and I am thinking they were originally on a regulator where it could be raised or lowered. Being fixed is fine with me, but I have to replace the windshield at some point because of a crack and want to reinstall the new one correctly. Currently there is a bottom rubber channel and two side rubber channels. The top of the windshield is just pressed into the body metal with adhesive. When I try to locate rubber installation kit, all I find is for a roll up windshield. I don't think that is the same.
Has anyone had any experience with mounting a stationary windshield in a 1930?
Thanks
My friend Frank has a 1931 olds and the windshield rolls up and down with a scissors type mechanism I believe. They do not move a whole lot as the windshield goes up a couple of inches to open to let air thru.
I would think that STEELE rubber products in NC has the complete set of rubbers involving side pieces and a bottom piece the glass would sit into and not allow water by. I would assume the top has a metal frame that the glass sits into and is held in place with " glass setting tape" available in a multitude of thicknesses. Its available on ebay.
I would talk to frank about his 31 olds but he is currently on his way to florida for rest of winter.
mike lynch 8)
-
Well it is New Year's Eve and what am I doing, thinking about future projects. Sorry for all the questions, but the mind never stops.
In my 1930 Coach the windshield is fixed and I am thinking they were originally on a regulator where it could be raised or lowered. Being fixed is fine with me, but I have to replace the windshield at some point because of a crack and want to reinstall the new one correctly. Currently there is a bottom rubber channel and two side rubber channels. The top of the windshield is just pressed into the body metal with adhesive. When I try to locate rubber installation kit, all I find is for a roll up windshield. I don't think that is the same.
Has anyone had any experience with mounting a stationary windshield in a 1930?
Thanks
My friend Frank has a 1931 olds and the windshield rolls up and down with a scissors type mechanism I believe. They do not move a whole lot as the windshield goes up a couple of inches to open to let air thru.
I would think that STEELE rubber products in NC has the complete set of rubbers involving side pieces and a bottom piece the glass would sit into and not allow water by. I would assume the top has a metal frame that the glass sits into and is held in place with " glass setting tape" available in a multitude of thicknesses. Its available on ebay.
I would talk to frank about his 31 olds but he is currently on his way to florida for rest of winter.
mike lynch 8)
Thanks Mike
-
Take a look at the Filling Station...They have everything for a 32 and they probably have what you need for a 30 to get it mounted.
Click Here The Filling Station
(https://www.fillingstation.com/)
-
Take a look at the Filling Station...They have everything for a 32 and they probably have what you need for a 30 to get it mounted.
Click Here The Filling Station
(https://www.fillingstation.com/)
Thanks Moose, Happy New Year
-
Has anyone had any experience with mounting a stationary windshield in a 1930?
Thanks
To answer the second part of your question about turning the windshield into a fixed non opening.
A friend of mine took 18--20 gauge L shaped metal and pop riveted it to the metal body. Not sure if he caulked the L bracket too the body, was around 1980. Then took black adhesive they use in mounting newer style windshields and affixed it too the L. Then pushed the glass into it to set it against the setup. The same windshield is still in it.
Personally I would want an airflow thru the car with a cowl vent or side vent windows or riser style windshield.
mike lynch.................. 8)
-
Well it is New Year's Eve and what am I doing, thinking about future projects. Sorry for all the questions, but the mind never stops.
In my 1930 Coach the windshield is fixed and I am thinking they were originally on a regulator where it could be raised or lowered. Being fixed is fine with me, but I have to replace the windshield at some point because of a crack and want to reinstall the new one correctly. Currently there is a bottom rubber channel and two side rubber channels. The top of the windshield is just pressed into the body metal with adhesive. When I try to locate rubber installation kit, all I find is for a roll up windshield. I don't think that is the same.
Has anyone had any experience with mounting a stationary windshield in a 1930?
Thanks
My friend Frank has a 1931 olds and the windshield rolls up and down with a scissors type mechanism I believe. They do not move a whole lot as the windshield goes up a couple of inches to open to let air thru.
I would think that STEELE rubber products in NC has the complete set of rubbers involving side pieces and a bottom piece the glass would sit into and not allow water by. I would assume the top has a metal frame that the glass sits into and is held in place with " glass setting tape" available in a multitude of thicknesses. Its available on ebay.
I would talk to frank about his 31 olds but he is currently on his way to florida for rest of winter.
mike lynch 8)
Mike,
I located a piece of rubber windshield for 1/4 glass that fits the bottom channel very well and have in my mind how to fabricate the top and sides to hold the glass in. If I put a strip of this glass setting tape on the sides and top between the glass and metal, is that all I will need to made the seal?
-
I am not sure what the cost of the STEELE PRODUCTS rubber set is, I cannot imagine its not very much money ???
You get the correct sides and bottom. Its important with our cars with all this wood inside that water be kept outside.
You want the windshield to function easily , up and down , as it was intended. I think if you look closely at the metal part that holds the glass in, that whats pinched in between the metal with glass is Glass SETTING TAPE.
If your metal glass holder also has a thin metal flap on one side, I would think that a thin L shaped rubber piece also from STEELE would be the seal to keep the water out at the top.
Your car has a factory metal visor thats protecting the upper area that the glass assembly rises up into. Its actually a really neat system that works.
Having a cowl vent, yours doesn't , allows cool air into car,. The roll up the 2" ?? windshield works the same way and is very efficient. I would not turn that into a fixed windshield.........but its your car , build it as you please.
mike.................. 8)
-
dug out my steel rubber products of Denver NC printed catalogue.......1-800-544-8665
www.steelerubber.com
under section windshield weather strip , for 1926--1931 SEAL set, part # 70-0064-57 list price $96.00....
seal set includes crank-up windshield: 3 piece set for bottom and sides, lower strip fits a dovetail groove in cowl. Fisher closed bodies.
Listed below that is part # 70-0064-57 at $2.60 a foot SEAL CRANK -UP WINDSHIELD TOP. L shaped strip fastens to windshield header facing glass to seal across top. Many models with crank up windshields.
So I was wrong about above part goes on body against glass.... :-[
mike---------------- 8)
-
For all of my windows except the doors I used butyl tape with the windshiled pressed into it. Then I made a bunch of small metal clips, similar to the plastic clips you use to hang mirrors, and screwed them into the windshield frame just for good measure.
-
How I was told to set the windows to insure no leaks was to use 1/4 butyl tape around the window opening then put down a bead of urethane sealant slightly larger than the butyl tape around the outside edge leaving a small gap. Press the glass into the sealant then into the butyl tape, the tape will act as a dam preventing the sealant from squeezing and the tape will hold the glass in place while the sealant cures.
-
dug out my steel rubber products of Denver NC printed catalogue.......1-800-544-8665
www.steelerubber.com
under section windshield weather strip , for 1926--1931 SEAL set, part # 70-0064-57 list price $96.00....
seal set includes crank-up windshield: 3 piece set for bottom and sides, lower strip fits a dovetail groove in cowl. Fisher closed bodies.
Listed below that is part # 70-0064-57 at $2.60 a foot SEAL CRANK -UP WINDSHIELD TOP. L shaped strip fastens to windshield header facing glass to seal across top. Many models with crank up windshields.
So I was wrong about above part goes on body against glass.... :-[
mike---------------- 8)
Not sure if I have enough original to go back with the crank up, do you know where I can look at some detail of the original setup? I wonder if the original setup was noisy at higher speeds?
-
I will email my friend frank with the 31 olds who is wintering in florida about wind noise and water sealing.
mike
-
I will email my friend frank with the 31 olds who is wintering in florida about wind noise and water sealing.
mike
Thanks Mike
-
ACCORDING TO FRANK, the seal set does stop all water infiltration, nothing gets thru.
wind noise ??? , whats that he says. quiet as a mouse.
Note----- getting the bottom seal in with the dovetail , takes some work .
He thinks the wind-up mechanism is a worm and sector system as best he can remember, he did it about 10--12 years ago..
you might be able to google the info
mike.................. 8)
-
ACCORDING TO FRANK, the seal set does stop all water infiltration, nothing gets thru.
wind noise ??? , whats that he says. quiet as a mouse.
Note----- getting the bottom seal in with the dovetail , takes some work .
He thinks the wind-up mechanism is a worm and sector system as best he can remember, he did it about 10--12 years ago..
you might be able to google the info
mike.................. 8)
Thank you sir.
-
I'm in the same boat with my 30 was looking at going with fixed glass as the crank mechanism is worn out and I'm missing the metal pieces that fit on the glass,just thought less wind noise and water leakage by going fixed.Let me know how you make out, going to order the windshield kit.By the way have made some progress on the 30 doors hung rain gutter installed haven't had a chance to post pictures.
-
CHEMONG..........I do not have the info on the 30 windshield winder mechanism and the metal glass holder.
You need to find out what other years that system is the same and you can then try to locate a new gear to fix yours.
See if I can make a post elsewhere on another site and come up with the info needed
mike 8)
-
I know there is a rebuild kit available somewhere and I think I might have some metal trim pieces will have to go through the parts that came with the car, takes awhile to identify where they belong on the car.Thanks have to wait for a warmer day to look in the shed -26 today,
-
madmike3434 I found the side window metal guides and regulator rebuild kit at the Filling Station Guides $59.00 Rebuild Kit $ 235.00 and with the Can $ less than $.70 ouch!!!
-
ACCORDING TO, THE junk yard dog on the VCCA CHAT, 29-30 **windshield regulator** and upper sash channel are the same.
1931--1932 are different
if searching for the parts you now know the years that match.
As far as side window winder mechanism fitting windshield, nothing I know about.
Things cost $$$ even if produced in china or offshore. I don't like it either and nothing I can do about it.
Oils in Toilet, loonie is in toilet and not coming back 2016
mike
-
I bet you can make the top channel yourself. When I had my headerboard off it looked fairly simple, just a thin channel and some flatbar on top. I can get you some pics if needed.
-
I will go through my parts tomorrow and see what I have and let you know if I need photos.I seem to remember seeing a top channel or what appears to be one wasn't planning on using a regulator so didn't pay much attention to what was there.
-
I'm in the same boat with my 30 was looking at going with fixed glass as the crank mechanism is worn out and I'm missing the metal pieces that fit on the glass,just thought less wind noise and water leakage by going fixed.Let me know how you make out, going to order the windshield kit.By the way have made some progress on the 30 doors hung rain gutter installed haven't had a chance to post pictures.
Great, can't wait to see pics.
-
Gary at chev4cyl@charter.net has an assembly and I think it is around $525.
-
I sure could use some pictures found crank assembly and 1 side window metal trim looks like no mounting channel and the good thing a new wood board to mount the regulator on old one rotted not sure you supplied the wood kit on this car but this piece is cut perfect with all holes drilled
-
This is what I have the crank shaft gear is broken will try to attach a photo
-
This may not help anyone but, I think I have the tracks that go around the windshield (and the windshield) from my '32 laying around here somewhere. Sorry, but the crank and mechanism, etc. were long gone when I got the car.
-
Chemong55 who ever did that header did a very nice job on that looks profesional to me vette59jdwl
-
vette59jdwl I bought the car with 90% of the wood replaced and it looked professionally made almost like he had original patterns or jigs, the main reason I bought it.I purchased it in Manitoba from a guy who was just flipping it and didn't seem too interested in telling me it's history or really didn.t know.
-
Chemong55. Last summer the wife and i were on tour we did wisonsin michigan north dakota Montana and then back into North Dakota just because we wanted to do a tour of southern Saskatchewan then crossed over into Albert a Place calld Prevost Albert just south of town was a fellow that had grain barns converted to parts storage bins He had tons of stuff and i do mean tons lots of odd stuff no whole cars he sold all of them to some museum.When i say he had grain sheds i do not mean one or two i thing total was 14 and on the doors outside were marked studebaker ,chev ,plymouth,essex ,dodge,marmon and so on.I will look see if i can find his name.I knew ruffly where he was and i pulled into this small town I spotted a taxi cab at the fuel pumps I stopped and asked him and he told me exactly where the guy lived and where the barns/sheds were the older fellow was 93 and still got around ,so the pieces are still out ther its just how to find them vette59jdwl
-
Bummer, I just got my new windshield in from Sanders Reproduction and it is the wrong size. Suppose to be 14 x 42, I got 3/4 to 1 1/4 less.
-
munch Hope mine is cut okay bought all the glass 3 years ago still in packing crate looked okay.As for the windshield issue I have decided to go with a fixed windshield.When I priced all the parts I need less the top channel which I don't have and it comes to around $1000us or $1500ca,just too much in my mind for a crank up windshield.Do you know by chance what goes on or in the 5 holes across the top of the dash.Thanks
-
munch Hope mine is cut okay bought all the glass 3 years ago still in packing crate looked okay.As for the windshield issue I have decided to go with a fixed windshield.When I priced all the parts I need less the top channel which I don't have and it comes to around $1000us or $1500ca,just too much in my mind for a crank up windshield.Do you know by chance what goes on or in the 5 holes across the top of the dash.Thanks
No sir I don't, right now I have brass screws and decorative washes in all the holes.
I got a local glass guy coming by tomorrow to make a template, we will see how it goes...
I am doing so because Sanders is telling me the advertised size is just an approximant and if I send it back and it is right for their template they will charge me the shipping.
-
munch Hope mine is cut okay bought all the glass 3 years ago still in packing crate looked okay.As for the windshield issue I have decided to go with a fixed windshield.When I priced all the parts I need less the top channel which I don't have and it comes to around $1000us or $1500ca,just too much in my mind for a crank up windshield.Do you know by chance what goes on or in the 5 holes across the top of the dash.Thanks
Chemong,
Do you know what size the windshield id you ordered?
-
No I don't got the glass from Chris Blattie on the HAMB phoned him and told him I had 30 2 door coach and he said he had the patterns no problem to supply,they were packed real well so just opened the crate to have a peek, tint right on edges finished real nice screwed the crate back together and has sat since then.He is on the Hamb o dex maybe try this cblattie@aol.com and he should give you his windshield measurements,nice guy to talk to.
-
Just measured mine 41 3/4 by 14
-
Just measured mine 41 3/4 by 14
Thank you sir...
-
Do you know by chance what goes on or in the 5 holes across the top of the dash.Thanks
There should be a wood piece under the dash with 5 brackets screwed to it. The dash should have 5 machine screws that will thread to theses brackets through the holes.
-
Do you know by chance what goes on or in the 5 holes across the top of the dash.Thanks
There should be a wood piece under the dash with 5 brackets screwed to it. The dash should have 5 machine screws that will thread to theses brackets through the hole
Any chance someone can post a picture.Thanks