Rusty Bowtie
General Category => General Discussion - Intros => Topic started by: EDNY on January 19, 2015, 11:27:37 PM
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Didn't want to hijack a post already going so let me start my own.
I see TCI, Yogi's and others have complete rear leaf spring kits for $500-$600..but has anyone here replaced the original narrow leaf springs with more modern 2" (plus) springs by making their own brackets/hardware etc?
The car I'm working on is my son's 37 Chevy sedan, could go 4-link but like the more modern leafs. Will need to lower the back 2-3" and have a 2001 Blazer (60") posi rear axle with disc brakes stripped and ready to weld in.
Could just spend the $600...but if I can convert it myself,..that would be more rewarding.
Here is a kit example:
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/TCI-1937-39-Chevy-Car-Rear-Leaf-Spring-Kit,46517.html
Thanks
Ed
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That is not a bad price for all new parts and all the thinking done. On the other hand it would not be too tough.
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May wind up with the kit...but I remember a guy using S10 or Blazer leafs on his full size 30's Chevy. Just measuring today I have a set of Blazer leafs ..that are nearly the same length as the current 1937 springs but 2-1/2" wide.
Looking at the stock 37 Chevy spring mount pads I'm sure I could remove them from the frame and modify the width from 1-3/4 to 2-1/2" without a problem then bolt them back on using the same mounting holes. The springs would have to be positioned a bit more inboard.
Still have a good month before the weather and daylight starts changing in my favor anyway....still in the planning stage ;D
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Ed I have a 1989 Dodge D-50 Rear end axle and springs with emergency brake and brackets on my 32 chevy roadster,Bolted right in,, Paid 100 bucks and 50 bucks to take it out and load it on my skidoo trailer along with 14 inch wheels and 6 bolt holes. Bolted right in. I thought of putting in 4 link but as far as i am concerned i think its to much work. I will however be putting in a stabilizer bar front and rear.. vette59jdwl
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Something like this
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Ed I have a 1989 Dodge D-50 Rear end axle and springs with emergency brake and brackets on my 32 chevy roadster,Bolted right in,, Paid 100 bucks and 50 bucks to take it out and load it on my skidoo trailer along with 14 inch wheels and 6 bolt holes. Bolted right in. I thought of putting in 4 link but as far as i am concerned i think its to much work. I will however be putting in a stabilizer bar front and rear.. vette59jdwl
That's really looks professional!
The more I study the 37 Chevy..the more I want build my own hardware to install the Blazer springs...really not a big deal. Thanks for the information!
Ed
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Wayne
You mentioned Dodge springs
I found the link below - looking at the upper right area of the page...you'll see the brackets already made for $114 & for use with "Dodge" springs!
Things are coming together....still would use the GM 7.5 rear axle.
Thanks
Link:
http://www.heinzmanstreetrods.com/catalogsections/Heinz2014Cat/HeinzCat2014_35-36.pdf
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Ed I have not decided yet which springs i am going to run I could run the 32 leaf springs with grease and fiberglass cloth between each spring and the spring perches land right in the same spot that the 1989 Dodge D-50- springs sat ,or i could modify the spring eyes to take the wider springs from the dodge D-50. What this particular rear end gives me is 6 bolt holes I have 14 inch rims 15 inch rims 16 inch rims 17 inch rims 18 inch rims and the original 19 inch wire wheels. This along with a 250 six cylinder 1983 chevy truck six and a 168 tooth flywheel a 67 truck bellhousing and a 5 speed standard stick from a chevy S-10. I also have a 2000 Jimmy 4x4 auto V8.That is was thinking of using the buckets out of .But someone on here said at one time or another that a middle seat out of a Dodge van was exactly correct.Let me know how you make out or which way you are going with this project vatte59jdwl
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Ed The springs on the 1989 Dodge D-50 are 2-3/4 inches wide of which there are three
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Ed The springs on the 1989 Dodge D-50 are 2-3/4 inches wide of which there are three
OK Thanks...it looks like the least expensive route to go is to just buy the complete kit for $525 and be done with it ...then I don't need to hunt down the correct springs, bushings, spacers and a lot of the little stuff.
Ed
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Ed,
I bought my rear leaf spring kit from Posie's. It was under $500 when I bought it a few years ago and came with the shock kit. The part number for a 37 Chevy is 8036. Here's the description from their website www.posiesrodsandcustoms.com
POSIES SuperSlide rear kits for 1936-37 Chevys are designed to work out of
the box. These kits have specifically developed springs for 30s and 40's
street rods. These are not one-size-fits-all springs. Kits are engineered to
provide a great ride, while lowering the rear of your car approximately 3"
from stock ride height; complementing lowered front ends while centering
the rear axle and tires correctly in the fenders. Complete with detailed
instructions, springs, front weld-on spring mounts, shackles and bushings,
axle saddles, U-bolts, plates, and lower shock mounts with optional shock kit.
Rear shackles utilize existing frame mount by removing stock threaded
bushing. Specify body style and rear axle when ordering. Add "S" to part
number to include rear shock kit.
8036 1936-37 Chevy Rear Kit
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Tom
That's a great source...really appreciate the information...may just include their link below!
Thanks Again...I'm printing and circling right now!
Ed
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Ed its like Christmas all over but i think ill pass wayner
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Ed,
On my 27 I did exactly what your describing.
Front spring mount from S-10 bolted to frame.
I widened the rear stock mount by brazing on the additional wiidth with a piece from another mount.
Then I reamed the center and bushed it with a full width bushing.
Stock rear shackles reamed and new bolts.
I swapped the springs front for back to position the axel in the correct place. I did have the advantage of building the body so I tweaked fender position. But not much.
The part that is hard to belive is the s-10 spring pads lined up and had 3 degree pinion angle. I had allready bought pads but didn't need them!
I just use 2 leaves because the car is so light.
Shocks iinstalled as stock with the upper mount being a new 2" square tubing crossmember.
It worked for me an rides smoother than I expected.
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Sorry not much of a picture.
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Ed,
On my 27 I did exactly what your describing.
Front spring mount from S-10 bolted to frame.
I widened the rear stock mount by brazing on the additional wiidth with a piece from another mount.
Then I reamed the center and bushed it with a full width bushing.
Stock rear shackles reamed and new bolts.
I swapped the springs front for back to position the axel in the correct place. I did have the advantage of building the body so I tweaked fender position. But not much.
The part that is hard to belive is the s-10 spring pads lined up and had 3 degree pinion angle. I had allready bought pads but didn't need them!
I just use 2 leaves because the car is so light.
Shocks iinstalled as stock with the upper mount being a new 2" square tubing crossmember.
It worked for me an rides smoother than I expected.
You know the more I look at the kits, the more frustrated I get, none of the kits are exactly as I prefer.
Looking at my 1995 S10 2wd reg cab truck..the springs would be too long..but the springs from a 1998 4dr Blazer axle (have one out) are about 49" eye to eye..very close to the stock 37 Chevy spring length.
My concern is the final ride height...the Blazer springs have about an 8" drop using a straight edge across the eyes. That seems excessive for my needs. Maybe I need to find a similar Blazer around here and look at the spring arch loaded. The local spring shop does not recommend de-arching S10 (Blazer) springs.
I like the S10 springs because they are 2.5" wide. The spring pads would be the last part welded after setting up final pinion angle. May need to look under a few cars around here...at one time I briefly considered the Astro van mono (fiberglass?) leafs.
Ed
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When I built a '39 Chevy .. I went to a salvage yard and got all the spring components ,,springs,front and rear spring perches u-bolts,and bottom plate from a Nissan pickup..can't remember the year model the pickup was. Worked well for me. I Left the front end higher than I wanted due to a steep driveway that I had
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nothing wrong with the way that 39 sits, if it had a bumper in front would appear lower.
mike
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I agree with Madmike there's nothing wrong with the stance on that 39, you know the price of the kits may seem high but you don't have to go thru all the stress to try and figure out what will and will not work and mistakes cost too.
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I agree with you 62131,,, I have used kits on my last 2 builds from Chassis Engineering and have bee very satisfied with the outcome.....but for a guy whose budget can not afford to put the money out ..there are donors out there that will work on their projects, you just got to do your research and get it done. On that 39 I "repurposed" the front end with OEM Mustang II, Rear spring set up from a Nissan. Brakes system with booster and entire brake lines from a Midsize chevy , Wiring harness from Chevy Malibu , rear end from a Nova , drive line and trans support from a chevy and did not have any trouble on the road. This was a Low budget build that afforded me to do more of the eye candy projects...paint and interior
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Ed The springs on the 1989 Dodge D-50 are 2-3/4 inches wide of which there are three
Wayne..do you know the eye to eye length by chance?
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Ed by chance i just went outside and measured i did take the springs off of the rear just before the last snowfall but had them on the edges of the skidoo trailer Eye center to Eye center is 44-1/2 inches.in its relaxed state
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Ed these are 2-3/4 inches wide two leaves plus a helper. So my take is you would need something like i attached so that you could run 2-3/4 inch leaves where the eye is only 1-3/4 inches.The first pic I would take them apart and swicth them so that they were offset top to bottom not side to side vette59jdwl
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Ed by chance i just went outside and measured i did take the springs off of the rear just before the last snowfall but had them on the edges of the skidoo trailer Eye center to Eye center is 44-1/2 inches.in its relaxed state
Thanks...
I crawled under the 37 sedan today and did my best to get a proper spring measurement in the dark barn. From the spring clamping bolt center to the front and center of the eye I got 24.5" -AND- the same measurement on the back half? That was done using a flexible yard stick alongside the springs, with flashlight, freezing, while watching for hibernating skunks and raccoons.
So the stock 37 Chevy springs add up real close to 49" measured along the sides (eye to eye) and probably are reversible.
Ed
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Remember that i said relaxed in other words there is no weight on the springs.Taking that into consideration if you put 2000 lb on the springs they are going to lay down and stretch Maybe just maybe there is someone on the sight that has a Dodge D-50 truck that could measure the springs with weight on them that's the best i can do
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Ed these are 2-3/4 inches wide two leaves plus a helper. So my take is you would need something like i attached so that you could run 2-3/4 inch leaves where the eye is only 1-3/4 inches.The first pic I would take them apart and swicth them so that they were offset top to bottom not side to side vette59jdwl
I think the easiest way would be to remove the front and rear mounting plates, then use them as patterns for the existing frame holes, then install wider tabs on new mounting plates. See the attachments..one is adjustable.
Would prefer to install them a bit more inboard to ensure maximum tire width capabilities.
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Remember that i said relaxed in other words there is no weight on the springs.Taking that into consideration if you put 2000 lb on the springs they are going to lay down and stretch Maybe just maybe there is someone on the sight that has a Dodge D-50 truck that could measure the springs with weight on them that's the best i can do
10-4...that's why I used a flexible yard stick along side the springs. BTW: Here's what the brackets would look like finished to accept a wider spring.
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I just got in from the barn I have the 32 up on blocks and tried. the best that i can come up with is 55-1/2 inches eye to eye on original springs . Having said that one has to realize the weight of the car is on the springs while the bottom of the axle is on concrete blocks. I think for all the trouble that it will create. My best idea is to take the springs apart put fiberglass cloth screening with greese between each spring and put in new greese fitings and put the whole thing back together. I will put these on the 89 dodge d-50 rear end and make brackets on that rear end to take the 32 shocks. You see i am not making a street rod but a restomode. I am using the original frame all original body.changing the suspension and drive train for reliability but keeping six bolt wheel configuration. I already own a tire smoker or two vette59jdwl
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Thanks Wayne..your best tip for me was about the "Dodge" springs...looking at them (Dodge) on a couple of vehicles today....the springs lay flat..more so than the Chevy/Ford springs. That will reduce the size of spacers if needed.
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Ed,
Just in case you were interested I got a price of $505.95 for the Posie's kit with the shocks included.
Tom
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Ed,
Just in case you were interested I got a price of $505.95 for the Posie's kit with the shocks included.
Tom
Thanks Tom...contacted them..the shipping is $63.84
Looks like their springs are 1-3/4" wide (same as stock) but have the Teflon buttons. I have enough parts here, including the parts I got from you to almost put my own kit together. It's only the proper springs holding me up...but as mentioned I'm still in the planning stage on this stage.
Ed
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Ed Where i got my first idea was from You tube go on you tube and type in 1932 chevy truck its some nimrod hillbilly up in the mountains and hes the one that got me onto the 1989 dodge d-50 rear its narrower than the s10 the datsun and the toyota check out his episode on *41 driveline and driveshaft good luke wayner
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Looks like the 74-91 Ramcharger front springs are what has been used in the past. They are 48" long and bolted together right in the middle at the 24" mark, 2-1/2" wide, arch 1-3/8" with 3 leaves.
Looking at the slider option vs the standard shackle option I found the following guidelines on Speedway Motors. What I learned was that mounting the forward eye(s) inboard may improve handling?
Here is a link..the second last paragraph discusses it:
http://static.speedwaymotors.com/images/charts/Slider_Tech.gif