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sammons

Getting ready to strip off the original paint on my 33 Chevy and prep it for paint.  The steel car has fiberglass fenders and will obviously need some body plastic work.

My goal is a single stage paint job with a double base so I can sand through for a patina look and finish with clear satin.  Intent is to make it a driver not a show car.

I need a sealer (primer?)  that can accept my single stage paint layers , ### how important is getting the original lacquer out of the (for example) drip rails of the deck lid? Those hard to reach areas.

* What sealer and thinner do I need to start with that will work on steel and fiberglass?

* Another area of concern is welding some areas where brass was used years ago.

* Not sure if I should use lead on the original roof seams or is there a good substitute for the lead?

Thanks

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Having a trouble shooter look at our forum to get it back up and running correctly.  In the meantime if a page doesn't load..try refreshing it.


It is possible that the forum "look" might change because this current theme is no longer supported.

Thanks
Ed

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Would like to buy (2) new or used wheels of this style 15X8 or prefered 15X8.5 with a 3-5/8 backspace.  I can't find a source for new wheels and used are just as tough to find.  Looking for a set without the ridge between the rivets if possible.

A set with a 3-3/4" backspace would also work. They are often listed as Outlaw, Centerline, American Racing wheels.


The wheels in the picture are true two piece (15x8) wheels with 3-3/8 backspace - can't use them after lowering my 33 Chevy.

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A few years ago a member from Brantford by the name of wood remover had an ad on the Hamb for grill inserts for 1931 / 32 Chevs. Anyone on here know this fellow and how I may contact him about an insert for my Chev? Thanks

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Mower repair/maintanice, get ready for this ol dudes 27th season. At least no deck repair, did that last summer. After mow season last fall i went to mulch up leafs, she spun over 4 times and broke another starter drive gear. I just replaced it again last spring, noticed then the bushings were getting sloppy at top. Figured thats why its breaking them when it's off when it comes up to fly wheel. For a few bucks more than new drive gear and bushings, i just bought a new starter off Amazon.

I got my garage door unclamped/ insulation removed so i could get it opened back up for summer. Got the mower broke loose from the ground and pulled it with p.u. into garage. Time to put the new starter on the  old big block. This thing reminds me of an old chevy 396, not the most powerfull offered, but plenty of power and torque and very dependable. 😁

Getting the front starter bolt is a real pain, if it didn't have that torques bit in the middle, you couldn't get it out, it's tucked in behind drive gear😡

Tom came over and bent my front spindle arms  around to get my toe set on the front axel and greased everthing for me. Be nice if these had and adjustable drag link. Did find out this mower was built by Huskvarna, did not know that. Got batt charged, engine
degreased, cooling fins all cleaned out. Turned fuel on, give throttle and choke a couple pulls to make sure they weren't froze up. Hit key... i bet it didn't turn over 3 times and fired right up, no slobering just smooth as silk, surprised me. Clean up wax body next.

All engine under the hood😄 Had bad toe out.