[Chucks36]

Looking forward to both my project and time here on RB.  I picked up a '36 standard on Saturday that has been garaged and not running since 1970-1971.  The previous owner bought it in 1970 at the age of 16 out in Minnesota.  He replaced the drive train with a '58-'59 283 and a 3 speed and rear end from a '55 chevy doner.  Uncle Sam came calling and the car was never touched again. I have a few questions right off the bat but I will start a new thread....mostly pertaining to running boards. 

Here was part of my day on Saturday.











Chuck

[themoose]

Chuck... welcome aboard. It's always to get the new acquisition home and safe. Looks like a super solid car. I'm looking forward to seeing what direction you take it.

Moose

[EDNY]

Welcome to the forum from upstate NY ..Great Find...looks like you have a lot of nice steel to work with!

Ed

[sammons]

Hey Chuck, looks like a very soild start. I helped a guy build a '35 master coupe 15 yrs ago, can't remember much about it but it was cool.  How's the wood? The one I helped with the ol boy and his son spent several years with a duplicater making new, but they did a hell of a good job. Good luck, great project. Lots of chevy info here.

[Chucks36]

Yeah.....I'm looking forward to working on it.  The wood is in great shape and as for some preliminary plans...

Find running boards, pull motor,  do as much body work as I can while she is intact, strip it down to the frame, clean/paint as I reassemble, install MII front end,  try to save the 283, 3 speed and rear that are currently in the car.

Now here are some questions I have...

1)VIN....is the VIN stamped anywhere on the frame?  Where is the factory VIN plate located on the body(I think mine is missing)?

2) In an effort to clean up the surface rust(on the inside of the door for example) do you guys remove all the wood and reinstall afterwords....or do you work around the wood?

3)Running boards.... is it true that the '35 and '36 Standard 5 window coupe running boards are interchangeable?

Thanks in advance, Chuck

[ghost28]

Hey Chuck welcome to the bowtie from ColoRodo. That is a nice solid project it even has a lube sticker still on it. You said the wood is good, I would not take it out but just work around it for the most part because of condition of the wood and the way it is installed, it would be a task to remove it with out hurting the body ar the wood. I have a friend that is also named Chuck that had  a 36 coupe and he regrets selling to this day. Again welcome and have fun here....John

[sammons]

Chuck i'm not sure on the '36,( but researching my 34-35 standards I found out ). Chevy didn't start stamping frame #'s until the mid 50's. Your serial # so to speak should be screwed to the floor somewhere near the batt box door and the sill plate on the pass side.

When I removed what was left of my wood, the metal was almost shiny under. I don't think I would try to remove it unless you were replacing it.

The running boards would have to be off a '35 master. The '35 standard is the older '34 body style.

Someone on here I'm sure has one for a better reference.

[3WBill]

 Hi Chuck, looks as though you have a better coupe then I do.  My vin was on the firewall,  passenger side and there is another one that should be on the floor, passenger front side. Both mine were missing so your already ahead of me. As for running boards, as long as you stay with the standards , you will be ok. I have a master and they are about 4" longer than a standard running board is. Looking forward to another '36 coupe owner.
3WBill

[3WBill]

Chuck, you can use a 35 master coupe for running boards not a standard from '35  and when you get into '36's you can use a master running boards off any master sedans . I have 1 original on mine now and one off of a 36 master 2 door sedan that a friend has. My car is a canadian but that shouldn't make any differances. From what I have learned since getting mine is all master frames are 4 " longer than a standard frame is. I bought a standard door from a 5 window, that is the same width, but the running boards were too short. PM me for more info if you like.

[3WBill]

Chuck, because we are all cool here and its ok to tell of other forums. There is a 1936 chevy owners group on Yahoo.  It is only 36 chevs , nothing else ,  just for 1936 chev advice . I am on there and they have been helpful on more than one occasion. Little hard to figure the forum out as they have it going as an old style chat room setup.

[cocobolo]

God morning Chuck...another big welcome to the forum.

Oboy, your car sure does look like it is in really top shape, very nice indeed.

As my Lil Bro 3WBill mentioned, you should find the body ID tag on the firewall, and the actual chassis VIN on the floor immediately to the right side of the passenger seat.  That tag is often beat up or missing, but your car is in such nice shape that I bet it is still in place and quite readable.

The body tag is a body by Fisher item, and the chassis VIN is the Chevrolet item.

[TFoch]

Chuck,
Welcome to the forum.  Good group of guys here that are always willing to help.  Nice looking 36.  Looking forward to seeing your progress on the car.  Good luck with your build.
Tom

[logride]

36s are great looking!

[Chucks36]

I really got lucky with the condition of this coupe...it should make the build go a lot quicker.  There are only a couple pieces of wood in the doors that I may replace but everything looks pretty good.  Maybe I'll take some pics of some of the wood.  So If I understand correctly the only place for the VIN is right by the battery box....looks like it may have been mounted on an angle....it is gone.  I do have the tag on the firewall but the VIN is not on that correct?  Is their a source for decoding the VIN that would give me the number of characters in it.  I was off today and made some progress on the coupe.  Give me a second and I'll be back to upload a pic.

Chuck

[Chucks36]