[madmike3434]

alright.............cooling system should be operating smoooooothly.

One of the problem we non ford guys have is the windshield doesn't roll out.  They go up 2" ? into the upper header opening the bottom to air flow, for the 32 and down GM.   When its 102 degrees outside, damn that's hot, and not a lot you can do about it.

Every once in a while I see a pair of ACCESSORY VENT WINDOWS, that attach to the doors.  Think I saw a pair listed on ebay last week at a hefty price.  The addition of those greatly will increase airflow inside car, but all that air directed into it, makes for a mini hurricane if opened all the way.   This is where that roll down rear window comes into play.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1931-1932-Chevrolet-Coupe-Sedan-Draft-Deflectors-Wind-Wings-Original-GM-Box/153075762670?hash=item23a406c5ee:g:eF4AAOSwEy1ayVed

found the listing...........a whole lot of crazy on price but you can see what they look like.  Maybe ford had something the same

Model A ford coupes and 32's had roll down when car came equipted with rumble seat, gm did too..  For best price I would look at model A ford suppliers. Preferably you want the mechanism handle right in the middle for easy access.
You will need the door stuff channel for the rear for glass to slide up and down in.

Lastly you will need to fabricate a water catch tray out of sheet metal and attach it too the body so when water hits glass and runs down your not soaking inside of the car.  You will need to fab a drain one end, out of 3/8" brake line.  There is a slight angle to the tray so water runs too it. Run the drain hose thru the floor .

I found it easier to adapt a mechanical chevy roll down 33--35 than make an electric one.  Which would be nice .
The bottom metal around the rear window will have to be modified.   

One supposedly simple job always makes 2-3 others.

mike lynch

[madmike3434]

The fan thing is driving me nuts.

 Dug out my 2 all steel 15 & 16" fans.  After a lot of measuring, turns out the steel ones have less size to the blades....aluminum 4" and steel 3 1/4".

Comparing the forward pitch on the aluminum and the steel, the all steel has seriously less forward pitch and I believe this should now clear the radiator at the bottom. Because the fan is opened up at the snout from 5/8", too the larger corvette pump snout of 3/4" , I needed to make a sleeve out of a bearing as it centers the fan.

Tomorrow morning will find out the truth about whether we have clearance or not..........news at 11 as they say.

mike lynch

After fighting with the fan, pulley and radiator and doing some bloody damage to my right hand knuckles over a 2 hour period, I am happy to make my final report on mechanical fans with serious pitch vs aluminum flex fans.
 
Firing the engine and running it, I could not really feel an air draw on the grill mesh with either type.  But using a 12" micro-cloth 1/2 way up it stayed in place, then I substituted a 20" square towel that was heavier and you could now see the towel being pulled towards the grill.  I let it be pulled to the grill and it stayed there solidly drawn.

Conclusion, the 6 blade Derale 17" steel fan with 3" wide blades and 28 degrees pitch definitely outperforms the aluminum flexifan.   I could not test the aluminum 17" because of the forward pitch of the blades hitting the radiator at the bottom.  Those blades are 4" wide with a 33 degree pitch.  That same fan RATTIC has on his Pontiac should easily hold a t shirt to the grill of his Pontiac ?

  The 34-35 standard series Chevrolet has factory stock *side air blockers* that fit onto the sides of the radiator and stop airflow from going around the radiator.  I have 2 pair or these and need to refinish a pair to complete the job.

mike lynch..........the mad fan tester

[Rattiac]

My fan testing :::::::
Flex fan ------ it would suck the sheet to the grill but had to get really close and not hold long.

New scoop fan (pic #1) ----- sucks it to grill from 5" away and holds there for awhile.

Scoop fan with electric pusher fan (pic 2) ------- sucks from 6" and holds well.

Now my problem is with the adjustable thermostat. Vibrations make the knob to go out of adjustment. So I'll play around with that and maybe convert to an engine sensor.

[Rattiac]

Anybody have a pic of the roll down back window ?
If I see it, I can build it.

[madmike3434]

https://www.macsautoparts.com/ford_model_a/model-a-ford-rear-window-kit-roll-down-type-coupe-24-pieces.html

https://www.google.com/search?q=1932+ford+roll+down+rear+window&tbm=isch&tbs=rimg:CRJEQKc9XWbPIjgkF62BeG0QItXXGvcTwyMNvbdHH_1RhVZ7DSogLUSrhe_1iHMBY3yKW3QkqvKYEyjiEQ8ViPCg0oGioSCSQXrYF4bRAiERrMgg-uOxYxKhIJ1dca9xPDIw0RGsyCD647FjEqEgm9t0cf9GFVnhHOlQY_1NsK_1-CoSCcNKiAtRKuF7EYXIHu8oNKIgKhIJ-IcwFjfIpbcRGsyCD647FjEqEglCSq8pgTKOIRE9AReVUDQ1YSoSCRDxWI8KDSgaES8kD5lmoH-n&tbo=u&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwjpvvftqY7cAhVk5IMKHbznAFUQ9C96BAgBEBg&biw=1360&bih=566&dpr=1#imgrc=8x13GKr7p72IQM:&spf=1531012495946

https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/roll-down-rear-window-in-a-model-a-or-32-36-ford-questions-pics.76490/

mike lynch

[Rattiac]

Drove it to work for a few HOT days and when I got home, went to close the door and the whole wood piece came off in my hand.

Well , you know what that means. The wood is demanding attention. I have most of this planned out except for who can make me this piece for the tops of the doors.
My metal guy couldn't.

[Rattiac]

My other metal guy dosent answer the phone. So I called someone else who deals with race cars.
Got quoted $600 for each piece . Holy s#%t !!!
Said they'd have to make a die and recommended another shop.

Wouldn't you need to roll the ditch and bend the other sides
Utah sucks.

[sammons]

Dang thats a bit pricey   Be much cheaper to buy yourself a bead roller, metal break and do it yourself.(or borrow someones) That piece dosen't look hard to make, pretty straight forward. Yep, roll the ditch first then do the break. My metal break only does up to 38" long and don't like more than 20-22 ga using a piece that long. (Its old and leaves the middle not as sharp as the ends).

Here is all you need

Add: Just grabbed a piece of scrap to make sure I wasn't talking out of my arse     It worked, (I was to lazy to hunt up a wrench to tighten up the bead roller to get it crisp)  I guess I should have cleaned the surface rust off first so you could see it better, told you I was too lazy tonight

[Rattiac]

That's awesome Sammons  . Thank you for doing that.
I was just thinking earlier about asking if you could make these for me but Hell , I may give it a try.

I know the ditch is offset to the left a bit. How close can you get the ditch to the bend ?

Here's a pic. I believe it's 1-5/8" width .

[sammons]

Rattiac I think you could go as close as 1/4" (from ditch to break on the up side and really close next to the down break.  I'll try tomorrow after I leave the shop to make sure.

[Rattiac]

Just awesome !!!
Lookin at some new tools .

[ghost28]

You guys rock.

[sammons]

Rattiac, just made another sample. (Clean one this time)
My bead (ditch) was a bit wobbly, can't find my guide (fence) and hand cranking today not so good.

I was worried about the ditch being down and needing to break up close to it, not a problem. The bottom of the ditch just rested at a tip up angle till bent. So...you can get close, I'm just about 3/16" on this bend. 1-5/8" from inside up lip to inside of down lip.

Tools- i'm real happy with my Eastwood bead roller and it came with 3 sets of bead dies and 3 sets of step dies.   The ones that Jegs, Summit and Speedway all look like the same as the Eastwood (different colors and decals) Make sure you purchase a fence (or make one) You can keep a straight bead that way. Helps to have a helper to crank while you guide the metal thru.

Was really happy with my break, but its probably 25+ years old and been rode hard   don't remember the manufacturer.

[TFoch]

Nice work Sammons

[FATnLOW]

A big thumbs up !!! Looks like it should work  for Rattiac😉