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brake locked

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39delux:
Doing general maintenance on the '39 I discovered the right front wheel would hardly rotate (car off the ground).  Left was not nearly as bad but still does not spin freely.  The front end is a MII style with GM 11" rotors and early GM metric calipers.  Master cylinder is located under the floor with a 2 lb residual valve.  I suspected the caliper puck was not retracting and replaced the caliper.  After bleeding and getting a firm pedal the wheel was still locked up as before.  Next in line is to replace the rubber hose.  Have one on order and also ordered a new residual valve just in case.  During my investigation I cracked the bleeder and several drops of fluid came out and the wheel would then turn which means (to me) something will not release the pressure.  Visual inspection of the hard line yields no damage that I can see.  Rubber line looks good but can't see inside.  If the residual valve was faulty both wheels would be locked up.  While driving the car did not pull to one side even when applying the brakes.  Any ideas?

sammons:
Well it really sounds like a rubber hose problem. Had that happen on a barely 2yr old hose, collapsed in the inside. It was just one, but re-replaced both. This new rubber anything these days are just junk in short order it seems😡

62131:
I believe your on the right track. I would replace the lines with the steel braided type as they have Teflon tubing inside the  SS braid

chopper526:
I'm with the other guys. Because it is specific to one wheel you have to look at the parts that affect that wheel. You already replaced the caliper. In my experience, I have only ever seen steel lines crack or rot through, that really doesn't leave much more than you hose. And, like 62131 says, a braided line might be worth the investment.

39delux:
Quick question...If the pin between the M/C and booster were to long would that cause the brakes not to fully release?

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