[chopper526]

I spent a few hours outside today removing the front axle and springs from a '29 Chevy frame a got several years ago. I'm moved it inside so I can remove the springs and some of the steering parts for the roadster build. I was only about 35 degrees out but not bad once I got used to it. (numb)  The finger I smashed is just now beginning to throb. 
I've been squirting the shackles and spring bolts with a 50/50 mix of ATF and paint thinner for a few months. Every one broke lose and all of the parts are reusable.  This is a frame that was in a fire that ruined the back half of the frame and everything else back there. The front is fine. Now I have to get the springs off and apart to clean them up.Then we can do some more on the roadster frame.

ATF and paint thinner, never heard of that one....

[madmike3434]

Have had this idea about taking on older grant flat wood rimmed steering wheel I own and converting it over to the 9 bolt style.  After checking the wheel to see if metal was stainless or chrome plated steel I was off to the water jet place to have a steel one 9 bolt ring cut.  Will get back after xmas in new year.

in meantime I go to princess auto searching for rivets that are threaded inside or ones I can crush one end like the ones in the wood.  I find a package with 20 of each size in it.  Next step is to drill the rivets out and push them free , and wait for the new year.  The steel ring will be welded to the original then sand blasted and powder coated either red or black, depending on which car its destined for.

in meantime have to give some thought as to how to coat the wood rim.........lacquer, various oils.
Decisions decisions.

here is ring am having water jet cut, its aluminum so no go with steel grant.

mike lynch.....................HAIRBALL

[sixball]

 A balmy 30 degrees today and no sun but I got the springs off the axle and the steering parts I needed. I got to use a tool my dad made from a 13/16 Craftsman socket. It has a big screwdriver like blade and it fits the big slotted bung in the ends of the tie rod and drag link. It was in one of the tool boxes I got when he died in 1966. I've used it a time or two but today I found out what he actually made it for. Thanks DAD! The bung didn't come out but I got it off any way. All of the small parts are in surprisingly good and useable condition. All I'll need to buy are new bushings for the spring eyes. 

Here is a thing my friend found about penetrating oils. I used paint thinner because I was out of acetone. I hope it posts OK.

Penetrating Oils

Machinist's Workshop MagT recently published some information on various penetrating oils that I found very interesting. Some of you might appreciate this. The magazine reports they tested penetrates for break out torque on rusted nuts.
They are below, as forwarded by an ex-student and professional machinist. They arranged a subjective test of all the popular penetrates with the control being the torque required to remove the nut from a "scientifically rusted" environment.



*Penetrating oils ...........  Average torque load to loosen*
  

No Oil used ................... 516 pounds

  WD-40 ..................... ... 238 pounds
  
PB Blaster .................... 214 pounds

  Liquid Wrench ................. 127 pounds

  Kano Kroil .................... 106 pounds

  ATF*-Acetone mix................ 53 pounds



The ATF-Acetone mix is a "home brew" mix of 50 - 50 automatic transmission fluid and acetone. Note this "home brew" released bolts better than any commercial product in this one particular test.

Our local machinist group mixed up a batch and we all now use it with equally good results.  Note also that "Liquid Wrench" is almost as good as "Kroil" for about 20% of the price.

Steve from Godwin-Singer says that ATF-Acetone mix is best, but you can also use ATF and lacquer thinner in a 50-50 mix. *ATF=Automatic Transmission Fluid

This actually works well, power-steering fluid also works as well as trans fluid!

[Rattiac]

Sixball. I have some new ball ends for tierods if ya want em. 
I made my own flathead bit for those also.

[Rattiac]

Just found em. It's the cups, springs and threaded caps.

[sixball]

Thanks, I think I have what I need but if I find that I don't I'll certainly call on you. Thanks again, Tom

[chopper526]

A balmy 30 degrees today and no sun but I got the springs off the axle and the steering parts I needed. I got to use a tool my dad made from a 13/16 Craftsman socket. It has a big screwdriver like blade and it fits the big slotted bung in the ends of the tie rod and drag link. It was in one of the tool boxes I got when he died in 1966. I've used it a time or two but today I found out what he actually made it for. Thanks DAD! The bung didn't come out but I got it off any way. All of the small parts are in surprisingly good and useable condition. All I'll need to buy are new bushings for the spring eyes. 

Here is a thing my friend found about penetrating oils. I used paint thinner because I was out of acetone. I hope it posts OK.

Penetrating Oils

Machinist's Workshop MagT recently published some information on various penetrating oils that I found very interesting. Some of you might appreciate this. The magazine reports they tested penetrates for break out torque on rusted nuts.
They are below, as forwarded by an ex-student and professional machinist. They arranged a subjective test of all the popular penetrates with the control being the torque required to remove the nut from a "scientifically rusted" environment.



*Penetrating oils ...........  Average torque load to loosen*
  

No Oil used ................... 516 pounds

  WD-40 ..................... ... 238 pounds
  
PB Blaster .................... 214 pounds

  Liquid Wrench ................. 127 pounds

  Kano Kroil .................... 106 pounds

  ATF*-Acetone mix................ 53 pounds



The ATF-Acetone mix is a "home brew" mix of 50 - 50 automatic transmission fluid and acetone. Note this "home brew" released bolts better than any commercial product in this one particular test.

Our local machinist group mixed up a batch and we all now use it with equally good results.  Note also that "Liquid Wrench" is almost as good as "Kroil" for about 20% of the price.

Steve from Godwin-Singer says that ATF-Acetone mix is best, but you can also use ATF and lacquer thinner in a 50-50 mix. *ATF=Automatic Transmission Fluid

This actually works well, power-steering fluid also works as well as trans fluid!

Thanks, Sixball!! That's good info. and I'm gonna try it

[FATnLOW]

Info needs to be  posted to. " Tricks of The Trade".....for easy reference

[28chevyguy]

yea I use ATF and kerosene … probably works the same.... I watch buddys emptying spray cans of wd40 and PB that do literally nothing on those really old bolts, this stuff is amazing and is not even comparable  .   I did try a can of Kroil one time that was just as good as my mixture but it was 28 bucks a can !!!

[FRANKTHECRANK]

Car related? I went to work,...I'm the manager of a body shop. Other than that, I joined this web site. That's should count, right? 

[sixball]

Yes Frank, it's all car related. 

I have used Knocker Lose with good results, better than PB or the others. I'd bet that diesel would work with the ATF too. I use my drain ATF so cost is nothing except acetone to paint thinner.
I'll be giving it another test today. I'm moving the '49 pickup front axle inside to get it apart for repairs and modifications. It has been outside for many years even before I got it. I'll be able to answer some of mu questions about Huck vs Benix brakes. I need the Huck style drums so my 19" Chevy wire wheels will fit. What ever, progress on '26 roadster components is moving. Just trying to build the components here and moving them to the assembly plant. Will be moving the body and wood parts down in pieces because I'll need help with that.

[Rattiac]

A square body im working on at work. It'll be heading to Barrett Jackson. So far it's getting new carpet, headliner, seat rebuilt and door panels repaired. Snuck these two quick pics.
Pretty clean 4x4 , no lift , 32" tires. The strips were finished all the way around the back of the cab and front of bed. Nice details.

[sammons]

Looks nice man.

Question/opinion Rattiac, which wears better...piping around edge of seat sides or not?   Or is it just a look preference?

[Rattiac]

For our industrial seats we do a top stitch on the side. Pic 1. (Reinforces seam to help with sliding out of seat)

Piping or "Welt" as we call it, is more of a classic, old school look. Basically a standard seam still.

A French seam is more decrotive . Pic 2
To make it tougher, a additional piece of material needs to be put under to help reinforce the seam.

A top stitch or French seam helps seats to look more modern but even 40's cars used a top stitch.

Next week I'll sew up some pieces to show as examples for the tech section.

[sammons]

Cool, I'll have to watch for that.
Noticed all the older cars had piping , and newer didn't.
I was playing with that French seam on my headliner scraps.


Still trying to figure out this darn new phone