Author Topic: Rear end  (Read 33200 times)

TFoch

  • Bowtie Moderator
  • Master Deluxe
  • *****
  • Posts: 2898
  • Age: 66
  • Location: New Hampshire
Re: Rear end
« Reply #60 on: October 05, 2019, 05:52:02 PM »
Nice progress!  Thanks for posting.
Spending time with my grandkids gets in the way of finishing my car but I don't regret it!

39delux

  • Stovebolt
  • ***
  • Posts: 217
  • Age: 82
  • Location: Alamogordo, NM
  • Drive it!
Re: Rear end
« Reply #61 on: October 05, 2019, 08:44:25 PM »
Thanks for the kind words...keeps me going.  Please don't look to hard at the welds.  Welding the center bushing in was a b...h because it's about 4 feet off the floor, dark and I can't get next to it with a helmet on.  Got my body bent at a 45 degree angle to reach, arms reaching out and abs on fire.  Good news is that the torque wants to push the pinion up and not down.  Having nightmares about my measurements being off.  If one was building a 30s, 40s, or 50s pickup this swap would be a snap.  Frame rails could be adjusted such that the track is stock to a 'vette and still be tucked under the fenders.  Hot ticket would be to get a C4 'Vette front and rear suspension.  I think the price would work out cheaper than an aftermarket I.F.S. and rear end with suspension.  Depends on how much fab you want/can do yourself.   

39delux

  • Stovebolt
  • ***
  • Posts: 217
  • Age: 82
  • Location: Alamogordo, NM
  • Drive it!
Re: Rear end
« Reply #62 on: October 06, 2019, 04:47:54 PM »
Before putting the half shafts and knuckles in I wanted to torque the axle bolts.  The axle nuts are torqued to 170lbs and I just don't have the wrench that goes that high OR the a$$ to pull it.  Found a one inch drive 600 lbs torque wench that did the job with one hand.  Right tool for the right job. 


Made another stand for the knuckle and slid the left side assembly onto the pumpkin and...and...nothing fits!  The knuckle is under the frame and the dog bones come into the middle of the frame.  I must have had a defective tape measure.  Only solution that I can think of is to use the 2" X 3" frame rails that I made earlier.  Will need to scab them in about one inch inside the existing rails, then cut the originals out.  Must make sure the frame is stable when I do this. 

39delux

  • Stovebolt
  • ***
  • Posts: 217
  • Age: 82
  • Location: Alamogordo, NM
  • Drive it!
Re: Rear end
« Reply #63 on: October 13, 2019, 08:00:10 PM »
Final plan is to notch the frame to get clearance for the knuckle and get the rear of the car lower.  Made a piece to scab in over the existing frame over the axle.  Weld the new piece in, then cut out 2 1/2" of the original frame.  More grinding...hate that. 

39delux

  • Stovebolt
  • ***
  • Posts: 217
  • Age: 82
  • Location: Alamogordo, NM
  • Drive it!
Re: Rear end
« Reply #64 on: December 09, 2019, 05:58:03 PM »
Well, here is the latest.  Bags installed and tested...didn't work!  Turns out the bags are to small for the job but were the ones recommended by the bag Co. in Az.  Of course they would not refund. 

Made new brackets for the bags I was using before the swap (2500# double).  Tested them today and they work.  Why shouldn't they, worked before.  Due to the camber change during the full range from up to down I now have to cut out the inner fender wells.  Last step is to install shocks.  Still trying to figure that out. 

Once everything is operating correctly then blow it apart and paint.  Then sheet metal work, brake lines, gas line and e-brake.  Should be done this weekend...not. 

Picture of the bags at ride height.

madmike3434

  • Master Deluxe
  • *****
  • Posts: 896
  • Location: whitby ontario Canada
Re: Rear end
« Reply #65 on: December 09, 2019, 10:14:59 PM »
your definitely having an adventure.

mike..........HAIRBALL

chopper526

  • Master Deluxe
  • *****
  • Posts: 2266
  • Age: 64
  • Location: Philly
Re: Rear end
« Reply #66 on: December 10, 2019, 11:35:43 AM »
Trial and error....cut, weld, repeat. Seriously, it's looking good, stay at it!
Tighten it up til it strips, then back it off a quarter turn

39delux

  • Stovebolt
  • ***
  • Posts: 217
  • Age: 82
  • Location: Alamogordo, NM
  • Drive it!
Re: Rear end
« Reply #67 on: January 03, 2020, 08:29:01 PM »
Starting on the sheet metal.  Here is day two on the trunk.  Forgot to take pictures of the support for the tin.  Welded in some half inch square tubing to give more support for the heavy luggage on long trips (wishful thinking).  As you can see the tubs have already been done.  Got to do some floor under the rear seat too.  Researching seam sealers now.  Cost of a tube runs $17 and up.  Got to do both sides of each seam so I'll need a LOT!

Still have to run the brake lines, fuel line and e-cables.  Then it's blow everything apart, paint and reassemble.

One last point.  Think I'll leave the 2.73 gears for now and reprogram the computer.  Much cheaper than gear change ($1000) and then find out the whole swap is a bust!

madmike3434

  • Master Deluxe
  • *****
  • Posts: 896
  • Location: whitby ontario Canada
Re: Rear end
« Reply #68 on: January 03, 2020, 10:18:27 PM »
2.73 rear gears , I smell an attempt a the land speed record on your local freeway.

mike ................HAIRBALL

39delux

  • Stovebolt
  • ***
  • Posts: 217
  • Age: 82
  • Location: Alamogordo, NM
  • Drive it!
Re: Rear end
« Reply #69 on: January 05, 2020, 12:17:23 PM »
Getting the trunk area all closed up.  Just need one more piece on the left side and a cover for the fuel pump.  What you don't see is the rear seat area.  The floor there has more bends and crooks that a Washington lawyer. 

TFoch

  • Bowtie Moderator
  • Master Deluxe
  • *****
  • Posts: 2898
  • Age: 66
  • Location: New Hampshire
Re: Rear end
« Reply #70 on: January 05, 2020, 01:10:35 PM »
Looking great!  That's a lot of fab work there!  Thanks for posting.
Spending time with my grandkids gets in the way of finishing my car but I don't regret it!

39delux

  • Stovebolt
  • ***
  • Posts: 217
  • Age: 82
  • Location: Alamogordo, NM
  • Drive it!
Re: Rear end
« Reply #71 on: January 05, 2020, 05:57:25 PM »
Well, the trunk area is done.  Easy enough, all flat sheet metal.  Now for the back seat area.  There isn't a flat spot there.  Not sure how I'll do it yet but thinking about cutting just about everything out and start all over.  Everything would be square bends where needed.

sammons

  • Master Deluxe
  • *****
  • Posts: 1876
  • Age: 63
  • Location: sw kansas
Re: Rear end
« Reply #72 on: January 06, 2020, 09:07:14 PM »
That's a lot of pieces, lookin good man. Your getting down to the short strokes.

chopper526

  • Master Deluxe
  • *****
  • Posts: 2266
  • Age: 64
  • Location: Philly
Re: Rear end
« Reply #73 on: January 07, 2020, 01:30:28 PM »
Lots of metal, bending, welding. Looks great!!
Tighten it up til it strips, then back it off a quarter turn

62131

  • Master Deluxe
  • *****
  • Posts: 2324
  • Age: 68
  • Location: Glasgow, Ky.
Re: Rear end
« Reply #74 on: January 07, 2020, 05:12:50 PM »
looking good

 


LINK SECTION - FEEL FREE TO SUGGEST ANY LINKS (YOURS INCLUDED).


OTHER FORUMS

AMERICAN DREAM CARS
CANADIAN RODDER FORUM
CHEVY 348/409 (W) Engine Forum
Classic Shop Talk
Inliners International
Killbillet Rat Rod Forum
LAY IT LOW
METAL MEET FORUM
The H.A.M.B.
Vintage Chevrolet Club of America


CHEVY PARTS SOURCES

AMERICAN ANTIQUE AUTO PARTS
ALBANY COUNTY FASTENERS (SS NUTS/BOLTS etc)
AN PLUMBING FITTINGS/ADAPTERS ETC
1933-1935 Buy/Sell Chevy Parts
BOB’S CLASSIC AUTO GLASS (& rubber seals) Ask for Forum Discount
BOWTIE REPRODUCTIONS
Chevs of the 40’s Parts
Chevy Supply of Assonet
Classic Fabrication
Dropped Axles & Axle Reference Site
Early Chevrolet Parts
EMS Auto Parts
Exhaust Parts – Including Oval Pipe
GLEN RARICK (LaFargeville, NY) Vintage Chevy Parts
Hamby Motors – Vintage Parts SC
HEMMINGS MOTOR NEWS
HOTRODDERS.COM CLASSIFIED
I&I 1929-1954 Chevrolet Reproduction Parts
JULIANO’S HOT ROD PARTS
McNichols PERFORATED METAL SUPPLIER
METRO Rubber Restoration Parts & Weather-Stripping
OBSOLETE CHEVY PARTS CO.
OLD CHEVY TRUCKS (Parts)
PERFORMANCE DYNAMICS SPEED SHOP (EFI & Misc AN Fittings)
REPAIR CONNECTOR STORE
Restoration Specialties & Supply, Inc
RESTORATION SUPPLY COMPANY
ROCKAUTO "Search retailmenot.com for discount codes"
ROCKY MOUNTAIN RELICS
Smooth steel running boards for classic cars and trucks
Rock Valley Antique & Street Rod Parts
Silver Spittoon Antiques
Steele Rubber Parts
STRAPWORKS.COM
Superior Glass Works
SURPLUS CENTER misc electrical, hydraulics etc
The Filling Station – Vintage Chevy & GMC Parts
TAIL LIGHT KING
TRADERVAR Auto Gauges & Test Equip
VINTAGE PARTS CLUB


TECH LINKS – REFERENCE & MISC

1931 Chevrolet
1932 Chevrolet
BCC Bin Look Up
BCC Bin Look Up (#2)
Bergeson Universal Steering
CHEVROLET HISTORY 1916-1942
CHEVY MANIA
CHEVROLET Model Identification Charts
Chevrolet Production Figures
CHEVY TALK
Chevy Thunder (Great SBC Fuel Injection Reference Site)
CLASSIFIED SEARCH
CLIPS & FASTENERS
COMPNINE Total VIN Decoder
CRAIGSLIST SEARCH TEMPEST
DAVE's Small-Body HEI’s
DeCode This VIN Decoder FREE ONE
ENGINE BUILDER MAGAZINE
Engine RPM Calculator
GearHead EFI Forums
GM Gen III+ Engine Crank Spacing & Interchange
GM TH-200-R4 Transmission
HOT RODDER JOURNAL
LeBaron Bonney Company-Vintage Car Interior
McPherson 4 Year College Degree - Automotive Restoration
MILLER TIG Welding Calculator
NATIONAL DO NOT CALL REGISTRY
New England Chrome Plating
OBD2 ENGINE CODES
OLD CAR ADVERTISING – CHEVROLET INDEX
OLD CHEVY PICTURES BY YEAR
PERFORMANCE DYNAMICS SPEED SHOP (EFI & Misc AN Fittings)
SEMA Action Network BREAKING NEWS
SMALL BLOCK CHEVY ENGINE SUFFIX CODES
StoveBolt
TEAM 208 MOTORSPORTS Custom Wiring, Tuning, EFI
The12Volt - Free Vehicle Wiring, Relay Diagrams, and Technical Information
The Filling Station - Classic Chevrolet Tech Articles

Website Free Tracking
Stats Of Website
Flag Counter
SimplePortal 2.3.7 © 2008-2024, SimplePortal