Author Topic: Rear end  (Read 1418 times)

madmike3434

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Re: Rear end
« Reply #15 on: July 05, 2019, 11:07:22 AM »
I have had some aluminum parts power coated clear but it seems like the clear has some kinda gold fleck in it.

I have also used spray bomb of engine clear with ceramic in it  ,  but again has slight golden hue to it.

I only had the powder and engine coatings done to ease cleanup if I got oil or some other stuff on it.

ZOOPS makes some kind of sealer that lasts 2 years for aluminum  ,  think its maybe meant for polished surfaces ?

mike

39delux

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Re: Rear end
« Reply #16 on: July 08, 2019, 05:12:28 PM »
Short update, after getting everything broken down the cleaning starts.  Worked all day on the knuckles and brake caliper mounts.  First was to degrease with diesel fuel, wire brush, more diesel, more wire brush, Mean Green, Scotchbrite pad, arthritis pills and finally wash.  Need to find someone in this area that will glass bead before I paint with a special clear coat called Everbright.  Center section with bat wings and half shafts off to the sandblaster.  Pick those up tomorrow after golf.  Checked with a local driveshaft special machine shop and they don't do aluminum.  On my own to shorten each 2 inches.   

madmike3434

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Re: Rear end
« Reply #17 on: July 08, 2019, 07:16:29 PM »
caliper mounts came out great  ,  lots of elbow grease used up on those..

Small blasting cabinet is always a useful thing to have if you have a good sized compressor.  Some like to blast away in driveway on 20 x 20 tarp. Only part you could not get in small blaster is the long rear mount.  But could open up one end with a door to slip the longer items thru.   Not something I have seen yet from harbor freight ???.  Blasting beads media is readily available around here and those orange 5 gallon home depot buckets with lids come in real handy.

Guess some calling around in your 100 mile radius for shop does aluminum shafts.

mike lynch

39delux

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Re: Rear end
« Reply #18 on: July 12, 2019, 04:20:09 PM »
Short update...rear end and knuckles have been sandblasted and Everbright coated.  Received new hubs (outer bearings), 5 new universal joints and new rotors.  Next step is to set the rear rail section up on the table and locate the hubs and center section.  Golf this weekend so it will be a while. 

sammons

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Re: Rear end
« Reply #19 on: July 12, 2019, 05:00:36 PM »
That looks real nice, came out great.
My brother bought a lot of 6 rear ends at an online estate auction, minus half shafts and spring.  Another  guy bought a lot of scrap, it had the half shafts in it. When he went to pick up his lot he ran into the guy loading scrap and bought the half shafts from him. I'm not sure if he bought  late C3 or C4.

39delux

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Re: Rear end
« Reply #20 on: July 16, 2019, 04:19:42 PM »
Got a little done today.  Set the frame rails up and got them square with the world.  Getting things square takes LOTS of time.  Trying to get that last quarter inch and end up with a frame that looks like a diamond! The hubs are located but now I have to lift the frame about 8 inches so the knuckles clear the bench.  Try again tomorrow and will make the brackets for the batwings. 

TFoch

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Re: Rear end
« Reply #21 on: July 16, 2019, 08:21:52 PM »
Lookin' good!
Working for a living gets in the way of finishing my car

39delux

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Re: Rear end
« Reply #22 on: July 17, 2019, 06:55:46 PM »
Setting the center section today and making the brackets to support the batwings.  Had to jack the whole frame off the table another 8 inches because the knuckles were hitting the table.  Did that, square everything up again, put the center section in place and square it.  Spend most of my time squaring things up and 1 percent welding things in place.  Planning takes up a big chunk of time too.

39delux

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Re: Rear end
« Reply #23 on: July 20, 2019, 06:18:48 PM »
Well, best laid plans sometimes don't work out right.  Narrowing the rear end by 4" will not work because the knuckles hit the batwings.  Moved the hubs out 1 1/2" and things fit BUT I'm within 5/8" of OEM width.  Looks like I'll have to fit the tires inside the fenders with lots of offset.  Research shows that's exactly what Corvette did. Each time I redesign the centering/leveling and shimming takes hours.  Then it's new brackets. 

madmike3434

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Re: Rear end
« Reply #24 on: July 20, 2019, 08:40:30 PM »
question, what is the maximum rebound of the spring or coil overs you intend on using.   I know in jaguars IRS its 3 1/8"

mike lynch

39delux

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Re: Rear end
« Reply #25 on: July 20, 2019, 09:39:05 PM »
Mike, that's a good question and I wish I had a good answer!  Back story...I will be using air bags and been in touch with a guy also building a high dollar carbon fiber '37 Chevy coupe.  He says 1 1/2" is plenty AT THE FRAME.  I've added an additional 1 1/2 to that giving total clearance on 3".  Last thing I want is to have the half shafts or knuckle hit the frame but I also don't want a tree top trunk either.  Going to go with 17" rims to clear the brakes although 16" would clear.  Wimpy rear brakes makes me wonder if an upgrade to Wilwood would be necessary.  Figure if I go with a 255/60-R17 tire I SHOULD have about a 28.5" diameter tire/rim combo.  The higher I set the rear end the lower the car but half shafts limit that...you get the idea.  Hope I answered your question without putting you to sleep!

madmike3434

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Re: Rear end
« Reply #26 on: July 24, 2019, 10:34:03 PM »
I have seen guys use hockey rubber pucks on bottom of frame as bump stops.

Air bags will give you a lot of flexibility on ride height adjustments .

Vet brakes no good I thought they were supposed to be  ?   I run 4 piston WILWOODS  on my 3 35 chevys.  Am happy with way the car stops.  Without getting crazy with charge card, those 6 piston jobs can get real pricey and what you have to say to yourself, am I really going to need those ??

My 14 Chrysler 6.4 SRT 300 has 6 piston front and 4 piston on back Brembos, like wow , that 4500 pound car does stop with all that abs stuff .  It gives you a false sense of confidence.

Might have a mini heart attack if I priced a set out for use on street rods.

mike lynch

39delux

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Re: Rear end
« Reply #27 on: July 26, 2019, 05:47:42 PM »
A little progress today.  Got the half shafts in after several trips to the parts store for the CORRECT u-joints.  Now the rear track width should be set.  Haven't measured yet, 100 degrees and tired so it will wait 'till tomorrow.  Not sure if I'm going to use the OEM dog bones or not.  Took those to the sandblaster on the way home.  Pick them up tomorrow and decide if I'll use them or not.  If I do use them they must be positioned exactly but if I make an adjustable set ballpark is fine.  Unlike a set of 4 bars they don't do much except keep the knuckle/hub aligned, no torque on them.  Note the angle of the halfshafts running back a bit.  The hub is set back 1/2 inch so that the u-joints will work and not just set there and wear out.  Lost one u-joint strap bolt.  Looked for it for a day and a half and found it screwed into the center section output shaft where it's suppose to be!  Oh yeah, the bracket on the snout of the center section is temporary.

39delux

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Re: Rear end
« Reply #28 on: July 27, 2019, 06:45:45 PM »
Here are the 4 brake pads that go on the back.  Talk about small.  I'll see if they live up to what I need before doing any conversion...(read $$$$).  Cost money to stop. 

39delux

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Re: Rear end
« Reply #29 on: July 29, 2019, 08:39:54 PM »
As with any new project there must be redesigns.  Moved the front crossmember to make room for the air bags.  Also made brackets for the dog bones and added a few shims  "just in case".  The basic unit is now mounted and all that remains is to design and make the air bag mounts.  Ordered the bags today. 

Actually the process is quite simple.  If using the original transverse spring there would only be bat wing mounts and dog bone mounts to make.  Most of my time has been leveling, squaring, measuring and shimming. 

 


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