Author Topic: Brakes  (Read 698 times)

munch

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Brakes
« on: March 16, 2019, 06:45:08 PM »
I had a couple of surgeries last year and the car sat up about 8 months, then I had it painted. I have now reassembled it and also replaced a crimped brake line.  I bleed the brakes until I had just fluid and the pedal was building.  But when I crank it up the pedal goes to the floor and stays there. I suspect the MC.  What do you think? 

TFoch

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Re: Brakes
« Reply #1 on: March 16, 2019, 06:53:38 PM »
I had a problem with the diaphragm in my power brake booster.  When I'd start the car up and push the pedal down it would stay down.  I disconnected the vacuum to the booster and the pedal worked fine.  I replaced the booster and it solved the problem.
Tom
Working for a living gets in the way of finishing my car

EDNY

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Re: Brakes
« Reply #2 on: March 16, 2019, 08:06:54 PM »
I always wind up bleeding brakes by myself so I use the gravity method.  I start by opening the farthest bleeder, open it up a turn, remove the reservoir cap and make sure the fluid is top'd up.  Then I wait until the fluid flows out of the bleeder in a smooth flow (coffee break time).  If it's jerky, bubbling and not flowing smoothly I wait...the smooth flow becomes apparent after watching it for a little..  Then I move to the next farthest etc until all four are bled.

If I replace a long brake line I might open the bleeder and give the pedal a slow short push just to get the fluid started.

If your car sits over night...might be a good time to open the bleeders the next day...the air bubbles tend to move toward the high point of caliper or wheel cylinder.

If you do bleed with someone working the brake pedal try not to pump the heck out of the brake pedal...just smooth slow motions..you don't want to create more bubbles in the brake lines mashing the pedal up and down.
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munch

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Re: Brakes
« Reply #3 on: March 18, 2019, 12:01:21 PM »
I always wind up bleeding brakes by myself so I use the gravity method.  I start by opening the farthest bleeder, open it up a turn, remove the reservoir cap and make sure the fluid is top'd up.  Then I wait until the fluid flows out of the bleeder in a smooth flow (coffee break time).  If it's jerky, bubbling and not flowing smoothly I wait...the smooth flow becomes apparent after watching it for a little..  Then I move to the next farthest etc until all four are bled.

If I replace a long brake line I might open the bleeder and give the pedal a slow short push just to get the fluid started.

If your car sits over night...might be a good time to open the bleeders the next day...the air bubbles tend to move toward the high point of caliper or wheel cylinder.

If you do bleed with someone working the brake pedal try not to pump the heck out of the brake pedal...just smooth slow motions..you don't want to create more bubbles in the brake lines mashing the pedal up and down.
Seriously, that will work?

EDNY

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Re: Brakes
« Reply #4 on: March 18, 2019, 08:01:57 PM »
I haven't had anyone help me bleed brakes in years....and I don't use a vacuum bleeder.
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chopper526

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Re: Brakes
« Reply #5 on: March 19, 2019, 09:31:17 AM »
Munch, I would suspect the booster. I think if you have a vacuum pump you can hook it up to the booster and check it.
I have used gravity bleeding several times. It's great one-man operation, but it takes a lonnnng time.
Tighten it up til it strips, then back it off a quarter turn

EDNY

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Re: Brakes
« Reply #6 on: March 19, 2019, 10:32:04 AM »
The only thing that has me leaning to a good bleed is that the brakes worked before the system was taken apart and new brake line installed.
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munch

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Re: Brakes
« Reply #7 on: March 19, 2019, 11:56:21 AM »
Yes it worked before installing the replacement line and remote reservoir. I guess I introduced a lot of a when I filled the reservoir probably trapping a large air pocket.

Anyone ever tried reverse bleeding?   

EDNY

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Re: Brakes
« Reply #8 on: March 19, 2019, 12:25:30 PM »
About a month ago I replaced about 8 feet of rear brake line on my S10 truck.  Did it out in the cold so the brake fluid might have flowed more slowly...but there was a lot of air in the line. It was a rear brake line that ran along the frame from axle to the junction near the front wheel.  I started with the pass side rear cylinder.....I had to open the rear bleeder and give the brake pedal a couple of "slow" pushes by hand to start the flow.  Yes it did take some time to gravity bleed...but I had no choice.

If you (2) man bleed just don't pump the pedal like you are in a bicycle race...up and down smoothly...then push down slowly and hold when bleeder is opened.
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chopper526

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Re: Brakes
« Reply #9 on: March 19, 2019, 12:55:11 PM »
The only thing that has me leaning to a good bleed is that the brakes worked before the system was taken apart and new brake line installed.

Ed, you're right, I didn't even think of that. I'm sorry, should have given it more thought. Stock up on some brake fluid and have at it!
Tighten it up til it strips, then back it off a quarter turn

EDNY

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Re: Brakes
« Reply #10 on: March 19, 2019, 01:58:29 PM »
The only thing that has me leaning to a good bleed is that the brakes worked before the system was taken apart and new brake line installed.

Ed, you're right, I didn't even think of that. I'm sorry, should have given it more thought. Stock up on some brake fluid and have at it!

No problem Brother...we are all just trying to help him stop ;)  besides..the verdict isn't in yet.
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ghost28

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Re: Brakes
« Reply #11 on: March 25, 2019, 05:47:38 PM »
Munch, I would suspect the booster. I think if you have a vacuum pump you can hook it up to the booster and check it.
I have used gravity bleeding several times. It's great one-man operation, but it takes a lonnnng time.
I agree with this.

munch

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Re: Brakes
« Reply #12 on: March 27, 2019, 02:10:02 PM »
I  reverse bleed the system and got lots of air out, still no pedal. Finally replaced MC and booster and revered bled again.  Lots of air out until nothing but fluid. Checked each wheel one more time. No Pedal!!! I'm stumped...

EDNY

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Re: Brakes
« Reply #13 on: March 27, 2019, 04:53:18 PM »
For bad calipers I put my hand on them (or watch them) as someone works the pedal. If you have a stuck puck or slider the caliper will tilt (slightly) to one side or the other....to indicate something is stuck.  (Tilted puck, stuck or rusty brake pad slider etc.)

A good caliper will just compress around the rotor evenly.  If it is stuck...you won't get a firm pedal no matter how much you bleed.
33 Chevy 5 Window, 34 Chevy 3 Window, 37 Chevy 4dr sedan

chopper526

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Re: Brakes
« Reply #14 on: March 27, 2019, 04:55:49 PM »
You might need someone to pump the pedal to ensure the caliper or cylinder is pushing the pads against the rotor/drum. A little while ago I replaced the r/f caliper on my son's Toyota. I had a heck of a time getting all the air out, and getting the caliper to engage the rotor. For a while there I thought the new caliper was frozen.........Just a thought.
Tighten it up til it strips, then back it off a quarter turn

 


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