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Welding potmetal parts

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Coley:
From time to time I get a request for welding up a broken hard to find potmetal grille or trim part from a  chrome plater,  that I have done business with for over 45 years. 
This week he had a Chrysler grille bar that had been broken and the owner can't seem to find a good one.  He also had a dash trim piece that the owner had tried to drill a light switch hole a little larger, resulting in the trim breaking in two at the hole.
The bar was very thin and hard to position in place to weld on.
The dash trim broke right where the "HEADLIGHT" lettering was of course.
The first to repair was the dash part.  It welded up OK and I was able to save the lettering, somewhat.
The grille bar was harder, but came out to where the plater can heavy copper and then fill any imperfections with hard lead.  Same with the dash trim.

themoose:
Good tip...Thanks for posting...

EDNY:
Coley are you actually welding or soldering the parts?  The reason I ask is because I have used ALUMALOY to joint aluminum parts.

madmike3434:
EDNY...........that's exactly what I was trying to figure out if he TIG.d it or alumaloy'ed it. 
I would have to assume the Alumaloy due to the lower heat of the propane.

When using it on aluminum heavier 1/4" ++ I found I had to use an oxy acy torch to get things hot enough for the alumaloy to melt and stick to the aluminum.

I was using this to fill out gas holes in aluminum LARSON valve covers created when put into a 500 degree powder coating oven.  Little craters like volcanos formed in various spots..

mike     8)

Coley:
I use my ZA (pot-metal) alloy to make small welding rods.  I use an oxy-acetylene torch with a OOO tip.
I am not welding aluminum.  These parts are all die-cast.
I don't weld aluminum, as I have a friend that does aluminum for me.
I also don't use Mugiweld or other "special rod".
My welding rod is just my regular ZA alloy made into small rods. It is 99.9% Zinc to which I add pop cans to bring up the strength and a small amount of copper wire.
It comes out to about the same alloy as Zamack 2, but less cost.

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