Author Topic: Open car trailer tie downs  (Read 1450 times)

EDNY

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Open car trailer tie downs
« on: August 20, 2017, 07:48:29 PM »
Getting ready to weld on new steel deck on my newer 18' tilt car hauler. The old one used D rings up front and I used 3/8" chain with double hook up front. That trailer has the built in 4" ratchet strap setup on the rear (which I like).

This newer trailer had (4) flush mount anchors at each corner, Going to weld in the "D" ring style up front and use the same existing flush mounts on the rear. Plan to use 5/16" grade 70 chains up front this time.  I'll just use the 2" ratchet straps I already have on the rear.

Been using the straps wrapped around the rear axle and chains around the control arms (or whatever) up front on the old trailer with no problems.

Just wondering how you guys haul...do you prefer anchoring to the frame to limit body hop or go for the axle and front control arms or tire straps. I know in some situations you don't have a choice.
33 Chevy 5 Window, 34 Chevy 3 Window, 37 Chevy 4dr sedan

sammons

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Re: Open car trailer tie downs
« Reply #1 on: August 20, 2017, 08:21:54 PM »
Can't never have too many tie downs ;)    I was taught to always tie down to axel/ lower control arms when ever possible. Reason given...car won't come lose (provided you tied down proper ;D)  Tieing down the frame puts more stress on chain/straps with the additional spring up tension. The car gets a much smoother ride when it bounces it's own suspension. 
Leaving the race track one night, a fella had just chained the frame down. He hit a big dip leaving town and the car bounced down enough that the chain hook came off. We stopped him in time, but it could have got ugly. Seen another guy do the same and his boom popped open, he didn't wire it down.

chevygarage

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Re: Open car trailer tie downs
« Reply #2 on: August 21, 2017, 06:38:41 AM »
Sammons, you are exactly right. You do not want to go on the frame. Go on the rear and lower a-arms. I have a 24' enclosed trailer and it is so smooth that the car doesn't move. One thing I found out is do not pull the ratchet strap tight and then start ratcheting. Leave some slack in the strap. My straps were coming loose because I did not have enough strap wrapped around the ratchet.
see ya later, keep on cruzin!

ChevRon

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Re: Open car trailer tie downs
« Reply #3 on: August 21, 2017, 10:15:09 AM »
   Suspension tie down only way to tie down a car. Here were my two rigs.
   Hauling two cars in the 45 footer the back car would really move up and down because of the overhang. Actually lost 3 pairs of coil overs. First time I noticed oil on the floor. Turned out to be shock fluid. All the shocks were Aldan.
   On the open trailer I added D rings closer to the center after these pics were taken. I also added tie downs to the side.  I know they say not to cross the rear tie downs, but I always did. Never had a problem.
   Anyway sammons and chevygarage are right on. Ron

  Sorry for all the Fords
« Last Edit: August 21, 2017, 10:17:59 AM by ChevRon »

sammons

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Re: Open car trailer tie downs
« Reply #4 on: August 21, 2017, 11:16:34 AM »
Ron, good looking rig and coupe! 
I always cross too. When we were drag racing my buddy always chained the rear by going over the axel then under the pumpkin and back over the other axel tube. Acceptable to me, but I usually went from LH trailer up over right tube, under pumpkin, upover LH axel tube and down to right tie down when room allows.

I use to use mostly chains and boomers. You have to be carefull with straps, paying close attention to something they may come into contact with. They can cut real quick if rubbing the wrong thing. I have cut several in the begining, and my buddy lost 10 tires one night when the heavy strap rubbed through on a bead. Went back and found 7 of them. ;D

Seen one guy just go over under one tube then to opposite trailer tie.  He told us he had his slick go down on the curvy road home and the chain had losened up and it moved over on him scratching rocker on trailer fender and taking out the brake line on the other side.

Years ago, (when the Ford dealership was next door) the transporter would show up to unload new cars....I would watch them unload/shuffel and reload.  They would use the factory frame tie downs and use the ratcheting chain set up and a big cheater. They would suck them down tight against the bump stop rubbers with short chain, pretty much stopping and suspension movement. I asked about that, he said you would have a heck of a time getting it that tight on a car trailer with a chain and boom. Thus not a good idea.
« Last Edit: August 21, 2017, 11:36:07 AM by sammons »

ChevRon

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Re: Open car trailer tie downs
« Reply #5 on: August 21, 2017, 11:51:33 AM »
   Thank you sir. I use the straps because wrapping a chain around the suspension on the type of cars I hauled was not a good idea. They were either painted or chrome. I kept a close eye on the straps.
  That was good luck on finding 7 tires, and using one strap, not good          Ron
 
« Last Edit: August 22, 2017, 08:58:47 AM by ChevRon »

 


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