Author Topic: 1926 buick roadster  (Read 170988 times)

ghost28

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Re: 1926 buick roadster
« Reply #120 on: November 23, 2014, 10:49:40 AM »
Yep. On most of the wood structured cars there was a threaded rod that was used to adjust the fit of the doors. I have used thick strapping steel tacked in place to my new steel structure after I got the door fitting, and never had an adjustment problem after.

sixball

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Re: 1926 buick roadster
« Reply #121 on: November 23, 2014, 11:00:41 AM »
Lots of great progress. I like the pictures of your doors and body bracing. I'm getting ready to tackle that with my roadster.
One of the fun things about the Disney parks are the "hidden Micky" shapes everywhere. The shape is so ingrained in our culture we automatically see it. Like you said when the other details are added it will not be so obvious.  If it really bothers you put one more small gauge low between the big oner. Vacuum?  But so what we all love Mickey. ;D
The probability of life originating from accident is comparable to the probability of the unabridged dictionary resulting from an explosion in a printing shop.  Edwin Conklin

vette59jdwl

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Re: 1926 buick roadster
« Reply #122 on: November 23, 2014, 11:12:58 AM »
Ghost28  on my 32 roadster there is a threaded rod that runs under the deck in front of the rumble seat and behind the closet for the convertable top.  I have talked with many many 32 roadster owners and they just laughted at me  ,They said no way,not on ours  i even showed them a picture of where and NO  nowone is owing up to it  Can it be that i have one of the later built  and in some amendment they came out with this idea tonstop the rear quarters from spreading or to keep the rumble seat lid alligned. I have no other ideas.This rod washers and bolts would have to be inserted before the metal quarters would be put on the car. thanks  vette59jdwl

madmike3434

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Re: 1926 buick roadster
« Reply #123 on: November 23, 2014, 12:57:35 PM »
I just noticed in my doors they want to flex at bottom which lets the door panel kick out at the bottom. I read somewhere where there was a threaded rod inside the door that was used for adjusting this, it ran from top of the door to the bottom. I can see where if you put tension on it the bottom of  door  would pull it in.

Actually my 1935 Chevrolet coupe has that rod running from the front top of door to lower rear of door.  I have not played with it since 1980 when car was repainted  and I adjusted the door inwards at bottom.. My door has a TURNBUCKLE  right in the middle and the threads were left and right hand thread I believe ???  Believe the rod was 3/16" or 1/4".

Going to have to look at the adjusting areas rod tops to see what it looks like, believe a flathead flat screwdriver type ends ???

mike     8)

madmike3434

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Re: 1926 buick roadster
« Reply #124 on: November 23, 2014, 01:11:08 PM »
Ghost28  on my 32 roadster there is a threaded rod that runs under the deck in front of the rumble seat and behind the closet for the convertable top.  I have talked with many many 32 roadster owners and they just laughted at me  ,They said no way,not on ours  i even showed them a picture of where and NO  nowone is owing up to it  Can it be that i have one of the later built  and in some amendment they came out with this idea tonstop the rear quarters from spreading or to keep the rumble seat lid alligned. I have no other ideas.This rod washers and bolts would have to be inserted before the metal quarters would be put on the car. thanks  vette59jdwl

Yes I can see that rod being used to pull the front of the quarter panels where the metal panel just ahead of the rumble seat lid locks down.  This panel is nailed to the back of the top holding wood surround. Its also nailed to a wood brace that runs across the panel that's screwed to the wood splines and the rumble seat latch is screwed to it.  I think with the threaded rod you have , somebody was trying to correct a perceived problem.  Once the holes are drilled in the wood it would be easy to bend/flex the rod to slip thru first one side then the other . That's what I think.

There is a long curved spine of wood that runs from the top holding wood section to the bottom rear of the car along the sides of the rumble seat opening.  Quarter panels are nailed to these wood pieces.

You have to find a picture of the wood frame of a 32 Chevrolet roadster to see exactly why and how they did it.  Or have a wood kit and examine all the pieces while putting it back together.  Like a jig saw puzzle only easier .

here is a picture from my shazzbott build thread.  the curved wood parts with top notch , fit along the quarter panels....parts 1 & 2 in picture, the other part in position #4 of the picture with top 1/4" wide notch has the quarter panel and the panel ahead of the rumble lid , the metal fits into this and FLOATSA.  the notches in it on the bottom goes from side to side and fits into the curved wood pieces notches and is screwed down from the top.

mike------------------ 8)
« Last Edit: November 23, 2014, 01:26:53 PM by madmike3434 »

madmike3434

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Re: 1926 buick roadster
« Reply #125 on: November 23, 2014, 01:16:22 PM »
Re the rear end, it looks really too wide for the frame.  Is this car a fendered or non fendered hi boy style.   Would have to have really wide rear fenders.   All will be revealed when body comes together.

mike         8)[/size][/font]
[/quote] The axle is right at 58 inches wheel mount to wheel mount and the frame is narrower at the rear than most so it give the illusion of the axle being wide,  but with the body on it the fenders wont need to be wide at all. It will all come together in the end so to speak.

After going back to earlier posts in this thread I saw the body sitting on the stock frame, wow body is wide , stock frame is narrow, was not expecting that look.   That's what made the rear end look so wide.

mike        8)
[/quote]

chopper526

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Re: 1926 buick roadster
« Reply #126 on: November 23, 2014, 06:22:31 PM »
The car is really coming along Ghost. When funds are low it doesn't take much to do a little fabricating. I don't think the Mickey Minnie thing is a big deal, but like Sixball said, add another gauge. Anyway, looks great!
Tighten it up til it strips, then back it off a quarter turn

ghost28

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Re: 1926 buick roadster
« Reply #127 on: November 23, 2014, 08:26:14 PM »
Oh yeah the buicks were wide and long in the seating area also, this should make it quite nice for those long rides. I alway thought the chevys were nice because they were so much bigger than the ford models, but this buick interior size is bigger than all of the others so much so that I cut 6 inches out of the frame and body. I wonder what the largest seating area was for the cars of the 20s and 30s?

ghost28

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Re: 1926 buick roadster
« Reply #128 on: November 23, 2014, 08:28:31 PM »
Ghost28  on my 32 roadster there is a threaded rod that runs under the deck in front of the rumble seat and behind the closet for the convertable top.  I have talked with many many 32 roadster owners and they just laughted at me  ,They said no way,not on ours  i even showed them a picture of where and NO  nowone is owing up to it  Can it be that i have one of the later built  and in some amendment they came out with this idea tonstop the rear quarters from spreading or to keep the rumble seat lid alligned. I have no other ideas.This rod washers and bolts would have to be inserted before the metal quarters would be put on the car. thanks  vette59jdwl
I have no idea but madmikes ideas about this rod sounds on track.

ghost28

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Re: 1926 buick roadster
« Reply #129 on: November 23, 2014, 08:29:58 PM »
The car is really coming along Ghost. When funds are low it doesn't take much to do a little fabricating. I don't think the Mickey Minnie thing is a big deal, but like Sixball said, add another gauge. Anyway, looks great!
HMMM. Maybe a clock in between them.

ghost28

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Re: 1926 buick roadster
« Reply #130 on: November 23, 2014, 08:39:42 PM »
You know that area to the right and left of the toe board in the engine bay. Well it always lets the moisture, and the hot air from the engine seep in because the only thing blocking it off is the side panels inside the car. I never closed them off before, but I fixed mine on the buick since I had the time. Probably overkill but that's OK.

chopper526

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Re: 1926 buick roadster
« Reply #131 on: November 23, 2014, 10:04:15 PM »
Ghost, one of the things I think I learned from you and some of the guys
 on the HAMB is there is no such thing as overkill, especially when it comes to safety or structure.
I think a clock is a good idea, you don't see too many rods with clocks.
Tighten it up til it strips, then back it off a quarter turn

62131

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Re: 1926 buick roadster
« Reply #132 on: November 23, 2014, 10:43:40 PM »
I closed that area up on my 32, had to drill some access hole in it to get to my body mounting bolts. I'm planning on making covers for them. I never thought about heat, my concern was it was an area for water and road grime.

madmike3434

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Re: 1926 buick roadster
« Reply #133 on: November 23, 2014, 10:55:38 PM »
I used ball milled aluminum plates to close off those 2 areas on my 35 coupe.  It was my billet everything stage.

You want to fill all the firewall holes and anything where that heat generating motor is producing vast quantities of heat.  Its going to want to get where you sit.

Re clocks  in dash.   my coupe has a stem wind VDO 5" clock in the dash and it also has a 30 hour stem wind rear view mirror.  I wind and set it to the correct time,  every time I use the car.

mike     8)     just an accessory junkie

62131

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Re: 1926 buick roadster
« Reply #134 on: November 23, 2014, 11:00:25 PM »
Mike where did you find your rearview mirror with a clock?

 


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