[madmike3435]

Yes it is, I was taking it out this keep happening.  It is a 200R4  not built long ago.  It stops after driving it some, but it shifts through the gears fast unless you are getting on it.  I thought it was suppose to shift at certain speeds'  I don't have the normal TV cable but a Bowler Trushift.

Have you seen this video:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zLTVxSS_Jxc

That's a really neat system BOWLER has for the proper pull of the gas pedal line  and the transmission line.

ATI trans was selling a similar idea but with simply a bracket that bolted onto the HOLLEY carb. It changed the ANGLE OF THE PULL like bowler does.  There was also a switch that plugged into the 700R4 88--91 on drivers side and attached to an electrical switch that screwed into a port on the other PASS side, wire to fuse panel.

The bowler system with the way it works is a better mouse trap design.  Huum how much ?  $249 shmolies

mike       

[EDNY]

Sounds like your TV cable needs to be adjusted...I can only suspect that the wire to your shifter was intended to be wired to a "manual on/off switch". (To manually lock and unlock the torque converter) I have seen guys mount the on/off switch right on the shifter.

Are you the original owner of the car, did you install the tranny and set it up?

Take a look at this forum post also:

http://www.chevelles.com/forums/33-transmission-driveline/70321-200-4r-65%3B-shifting-too-fast.html

[munch]

It had a 400 and I wanted overdrive.  A gentleman built the 200r4 for me and that is the way he wired it, no switch.  It always shifted to soon for me, but not like now.  I put it on the rack after a couple of trips last year and have been installing a 4 link, exhaust and the Fitech EFI.  As I said, I had a Bowler Tru-shift TV cable on the Holley and did have to but a different part from them to work with the Fitech unit.  Sinc e them it has never been right.  Bowler had me reset the TV cable, but it did no good.  They are now suggesting replacing with a lighter governor.  I can't help thinking something is not setup right.

[EDNY]

I agree..I would spend some time adjusting that TV cable both in and out.  If you want to try a different governor and if a 700R4 will work..I should have some out in the barn you can have.

I'm curious about that wire going up to the shifter,,,back up lights or lock-up?

[munch]

It runs from the fuse box to the passenger side of the trans and plugs into a two prong connector and leave the second prong and runs to the driver's side just behind the shift lever where there is a connection.  The parts list did say L-U solenoid, could that be it?

[EDNY]

I bet L-U is the Lock Up solenoid.

Sounds like the transmission is wired to lock-up, the solenoid needs 12volts to lock up. What isn't clear is how the power is interrupted to unlock it.  This has me concerned that you may have been driving the car in a locked up condition - not good. It would only unlock when the car was turned off and only if the 12v supply to the tranny was "key on" power.

Maybe Moose can jump in...but I would rather run it WITHOUT power to the tranny until you can determine how the power is interrupted which is normally done via the brake pedal.

Just thinking here ...but it could be possible to have an inline pressure switch plumbed into a brake line that is normally closed providing power to the tranny and when brakes are applied the pressure opens the contact...but I don't even know if such a switch is even made. It would be just the opposite of a brake pressure switch.

Can you contact the folks that did the conversion and ask them how the lock/unlock system works?
 

[62131]

I have TH350c which has a lock up converter and I used a duel contact brake switch to unlock mine.

[EDNY]

I have TH350c which has a lock up convertor and I used a duel contact brake switch to unlock mine.

That's the most common setup, power goes to the brake pedal first - then to the tranny.  In the setup munch has...sounds like the power is routed to the tranny first - then the shifter...doesn't appear to be correct.  Would think the power would go to the shifter (with on/off switch) then to the tranny so the power can be controlled at the shifter. 

[EDNY]

munch...attached a diagram of the basic wiring for the 700R4 lockup. Also attached a picture of two lockup solenoids. Just thinking maybe your tranny could be set up to use the two wire solenoid so the wire going to your shifter supplies the ground?

Best if you could ask the person that built it to be sure.

[munch]

I would but the gentleman passes away.  I guess I need to find someone that will look at a trans on a hot rod.

[EDNY]

Munch can you determine how and where the line to the shifter ends or is connected?

[munch]

Munch can you determine how and where the line to the shifter ends or is connected?

Where the green circle is on the driver side.  It first goes to a two prong connector on the passenger side.

[munch]

Munch can you determine how and where the line to the shifter ends or is connected?

ED,

See pics

[EDNY]

You say wiring starts at the fuse block and connects to the pressure switch (in pic above)...but where and how does it terminate from the pressure switch? You say it enters the shifter...but is it hooked up to the shifter, a switch or does it just dead end?

[munch]

You say wiring starts at the fuse block and connects to the pressure switch (in pic above)...but where and how does it terminate from the pressure switch? You say it enters the shifter...but is it hooked up to the shifter, a switch or does it just dead end?

It goes from the fuse box to the terminal in the first picture, then out and across the transmission and terminates at the plug in the second picture directly behind the shifter.

This is strange, because on last year's trip it worked correctly and had overdrive.

Bowler is now asking me to locate a pressure gauge ant check the transmission pressure.