[sixball]

That's the one. The one I have is pretty rough. I will probably make one because I'd have to modify a stock one any way for what I want.

[sammons]

Looked up the phone #, "Early Chevrolet Parts" listed below on index page.

Sixball that doesn't look bad at all. Your center section looks good, and the frame horn covers are repairable. ( compared to what they want  )

Voided, this is what I meant about X-measuring. Align panels, measure, and tack up body. Make sure to keep checking "X". Measurment (A) would be at a fixed location, as low as possible, as close to the frt body mount(or door jamb, to a fixed point on rear body mount or center line on rear wheel tub.This will assure you that the body does not "diamond" on you while weld draw.(one side getting ahead of the other)
Measurement (B) will make sure your b-pillar(rear door jamb) hasn't rolled under some at the very bottom.

Good luck, it's just a time consumeing thing!

[voided]

just ordered my first tig machine after selling my old 110v mig.. time to learn some new tricks to get this body together and chopped..

and contact howell to see if im gonna have to wait for those pieces..



will do sammons. thanks again...

[sixball]

Thanks Sammons.
Are your "A" measurements horizontal  at the bottom of the body? Are the "B" measurements diagonal bottom of A pillar to top of B pillar and top of A to bottom of B? There seems like three are lots of places where a guy could screw up. I guess lots of measuring and remeasuring are in order. Voided keep us up on how this is going.

[sammons]

Sixball, that would be the lower horizonal plane down low on both.  As Ghost said, set up all your panels with door gaps what you wish. I would go 3/16" +/-, sedan/coupe can be tighter (less movement)  than roadster/conv. (More movement due to no roof structure). Then tack and "X" measure  everything. You want to mirror image tape distances, and come up with the same number.
Example- say your right front door jamb to left rear door jamb is 59 3/4". Your left front to right rear is 60 1/4". Your out of square by 1/2". That tells you either the left rear is 1/4" in to far or right rear is out 1/4" to far. Push/pull lower body till the measurement is 60" both ways.

Now it doesn't hurt to X every where you can think of (diagonaly etc)  I know it maybe overkill, but it's nice to get it as square as possible. Keep in mind, the older factory frame specs use to have a 1/8" +/- to be with in tolorance.

[voided]

i got my tig welder in today, gotta go get my argon filled and some silicone bronze sticks.

howells, said they are a week wait time on the rockers so i ordered them and gonna practice till they get in.

gotta plan out the 4" channel and get some 2x2's mounted for sub floor idea's before trying to build anything permanent 

[FATnLOW]

Check out TFoch  '33 build on this site....I kinda followed his build  for my  floor, but did mine  a bit different
  There are  quite a few threads on floors on this site, various ways of tackling the project...a lot of good ideas by the guys


    Photos are of my floor on my '33

[vette59jdwl]

  FATnLOW  In your first picture i noticed you do not have a frame or should i cal it a body frame.I notice holes in the ends of your cross pieces..whats with that  vette59jdwl

[FATnLOW]

Vette...Those  holes in the cross members  are at  original  floor to  frame mounting point...pics not show sill rails that run  from front to rear...photo  shows  carriage bolt going thru floor, then thru cross member, and original  body mount ..all cross members were set up over original body mounts points

[madmike3434]

VOIDED...............while your learning the technique of TIG welding suggest when welding on the car , not to use silicon bronze wire.

Primers and paint will not adhere properly to bronze and before you know it paint primer is cracking.

I could be wrong, suggest you research it on computer before lighting up TIG unit.

mike lynch       

[voided]

madmike....... perfect !!!!

I actually aint painting this 88 yr old beauty... 

and have talked to a couple guys in the body field that have cleared over the silicone bronze before with no problems.. they actually were the ones who told me to use the silicone bronze to help with keeping my body panels from distorting while being welded




a quick call to my body shop guys and they said "as long as i dont brass braze, your good"

[voided]

almost a month waiting on my rockers from howells when quoted a week before shipping.

been putzing around and practicing welding for when these come in, but im losing hope and might just try and build them from scratch...

would of went that route if he didnt quote me a week, a month ago

[ghost28]

almost a month waiting on my rockers from howells when quoted a week before shipping.

 would of went that route if he didnt quote me a week, a month ago

I bet when you call them. They will tell you they haven't started a production run yet. I waited for two month or more for a pair of 27 chevy running board splash pans. I finally asked for  my money back. This seems to be a problem with them.

[voided]

im just mad i was quoted a week, and now i cant get a response to any email (either thru paypal or my gmail) and no one answers or responds to voicemails. calling the 1-800-375-6663 doesnt work either

ill try the 409-838-3673 number i found tomorrow

[ghost28]

I,m sorry to here that. I won't use them anymore, but keep trying to get in touch with them at least to get your money back.