Author Topic: Wood to Steel Conversion 32 Chevy Example  (Read 10423 times)

62131

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Re: Wood to Steel Conversion 32 Chevy Example
« Reply #60 on: July 31, 2017, 06:59:31 PM »
INTERESTING SOLUTION TO GET RID OF THE **CLANK LIKE A FORD** WHEN YOUR PRE 36 CHEVY IS STEELED OUT, FILL THE VOID WITH  OEM FOAM.

THUD/THUMP IS ALWAYS NICER THAN CLANK.

LET US KNOW THE RESULTS WHEN YOU EVENTUALLY DO IT.

NOT YELLING, JUST LARGER LETTERS,  EASY READING




I put a steel frame around my doors and steel cross bracing to mount the power windows to and then I used a aluminum faced bubble wrap insulation on the inside the door skin and installed bear claw latches and a steel interior door panel. When closing my doors you get a thud with a click of the latches latching. I very happy with sound of a solid door closing. :)


« Last Edit: July 31, 2017, 08:08:22 PM by 62131 »

madmike3435

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Re: Wood to Steel Conversion 32 Chevy Example
« Reply #61 on: July 31, 2017, 07:31:20 PM »
sounds just like a wood framed chevy.

mike l      8)

Rattiac

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Re: Wood to Steel Conversion 32 Chevy Example
« Reply #62 on: August 01, 2017, 12:04:23 AM »
I'll be getting some steel in the next few weeks.
Looks like I'll be using 1.5" square tube.
2 (16ft) sticks and at least a few 1-inchers.

I measured the main top rails at 1-5/8" square.
So it may get some flat strips for spacing I'll need to make up above the rear side windows.

« Last Edit: August 01, 2017, 12:06:15 AM by Rattiac »

Senior31

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Re: Wood to Steel Conversion 32 Chevy Example
« Reply #63 on: August 01, 2017, 12:17:17 PM »
Thanks to everyone that has posted pictures.  I am thinking about replacing the wood in my coupe and sedan.  What gauge of steel did everyone use to make the A and B pillars?  Also, if anyone has pictures they would like to share please PM me and I will send you my email address.  I would like to gather as much reference material as possible before I start.  Thanks again for all the help from this site!

Rattiac

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Re: Wood to Steel Conversion 32 Chevy Example
« Reply #64 on: August 01, 2017, 01:43:42 PM »
. 075 is fine. Dosent need to be too thick and makes it easier to bend if need be.

On my floors main rails, I went with 1/8" .
The link I found helped alot visually.

62131

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Re: Wood to Steel Conversion 32 Chevy Example
« Reply #65 on: August 01, 2017, 05:39:23 PM »
Thanks to everyone that has posted pictures.  I am thinking about replacing the wood in my coupe and sedan.  What gauge of steel did everyone use to make the A and B pillars?  Also, if anyone has pictures they would like to share please PM me and I will send you my email address.  I would like to gather as much reference material as possible before I start.  Thanks again for all the help from this site!

On my A and B pillars I used 11ga I posted pictures above of one of the A's  the rest was 1/8th inch walled tubing and all my interior panels were 11ga I drilled 2-1//2 holes to help reduce the weight some of the panels
« Last Edit: August 01, 2017, 08:21:50 PM by 62131 »

chopper526

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Re: Wood to Steel Conversion 32 Chevy Example
« Reply #66 on: August 01, 2017, 06:42:37 PM »
Want the "thump" when you close doors....closed molecule foam (OEM water resistant type) around the steel framing. I plan on filling my A pillars and door perimeter with the stuff.

My doors close nice and solid, but a little extra is always good. Wish I would have thought of that stuff when I built my car :'(
Tighten it up til it strips, then back it off a quarter turn

ChevRon

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Re: Wood to Steel Conversion 32 Chevy Example
« Reply #67 on: August 01, 2017, 08:41:37 PM »
And now for something completely different.

    To begin with I did my 27 coupe in wood. I'm a metal guy but enjoyed working with the wood. Actually came out looking like a coupe. Made one mistake, I closed up the gaps in the door area using ash.
    So me and my buddies left El Paso and headed to Memphis. It was raining there and of course the wood expanded, the door was stuck shut and I had to force my way out of the car. Elbow was very sore.
    AND NOW I did the roadster in steel being this was not an original configuration to begin with. Used 1" x 3" rect. tubing for sub rails and 3/4" X 1-/2" for uprights. I built a tubing bender to form the curved pieces. Adding a cage made a very solid base to connect all this to.
    I use Lizard Skin for sound deadening and heat. Really quiets the steel down. Stops sound transfer and takes up very little space. Used bear claws also.   A couple pictures. Ron
   

FATnLOW

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Re: Wood to Steel Conversion 32 Chevy Example
« Reply #68 on: August 01, 2017, 09:11:48 PM »
Nice..metal work

chopper526

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Re: Wood to Steel Conversion 32 Chevy Example
« Reply #69 on: August 02, 2017, 06:13:07 PM »
No doubt about it, ChevRon, you ARE a metal guy!
Tighten it up til it strips, then back it off a quarter turn

ghost28

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Re: Wood to Steel Conversion 32 Chevy Example
« Reply #70 on: August 02, 2017, 07:45:02 PM »
No doubt about it, ChevRon, you ARE a metal guy!
i totally agree with this statement..You got it covered ChevRon.

sammons

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Re: Wood to Steel Conversion 32 Chevy Example
« Reply #71 on: August 03, 2017, 12:06:31 PM »
Chevron, thats some really nice work. Looks Great!!

ChevRon

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Re: Wood to Steel Conversion 32 Chevy Example
« Reply #72 on: August 03, 2017, 09:53:05 PM »
   Thank you guys. Very much appreciate it. Ron

Rattiac

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Re: Wood to Steel Conversion 32 Chevy Example
« Reply #73 on: March 12, 2018, 11:06:36 PM »
I need to start modifying a  C clamp to remove the door pins. Got any ideas y'all wanna share ?

Been soaking them the past month or so.

sammons

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Re: Wood to Steel Conversion 32 Chevy Example
« Reply #74 on: March 13, 2018, 04:54:29 PM »
Rattiac your Pontiac isn't an old rust bucket so making that tool might just work. Maybe 62131 or Moose would have more info on 32s. My buddy bought a $50 clamp press for removing his pins on his 32 Ford, I soaked and then tried his new tool. The drive pin on the tool kept bending even with out much pressure. Didn't work on his, I had to grind the head off, center punch and drill down past the knurel(3/4") then drove out with a drive punch and hammer. Ford is backward to a GM. GM pin knurl is locked at the top (about 3/8" down) on the cowl side.
On the two coupes i've had (34-35) I was able to soak with PB Blaster and drive 3 doors off. The last door on my 35 I had to take the hinges lose from the cowl side to get the door off and then I could get to the door side screws to remove. I put the hinge in the vise end wise and used a drive punch on my air chissel to vibrate and get moving.

I have a Model A door I have to do this to myself, not looking forward to it.....its Rusty!

Good luck!

 


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