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« Last post by EDNY on June 18, 2025, 10:05:59 PM »
Ed, if you are going for a sanded through patina look, I have an
important lesson I learned myself, when going for that look on
my Essex in 2008.
My profesdional painter buddy told me that I don?t need to sand
between colors if I spray them inside 24 hours. This is true, but
not any good for making fake patina.
I had orange peel on the underlying oxide red color and that was
no good at all. The result looked just awful, so I paimted it black
one more time.
The result in the pic below. The orange peel made it dotty and left
It looking real bad.
Don?t do it like I did. Sand flat with fine grit (320 or 400) before
adding the top color coat.
I might try this again some day.
Nice tip Thanks...I'm also thinking about painting some fake rust spots in certain areas (fender body joints etc), need some help with that.
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« Last post by TFoch on June 18, 2025, 05:18:30 PM »
That looks much better! Nice work!
93
« Last post by Essex_29 on June 18, 2025, 04:34:14 PM »
Ed, if you are going for a sanded through patina look, I have an
important lesson I learned myself, when going for that look on
my Essex in 2008.
My profesdional painter buddy told me that I don’t need to sand
between colors if I spray them inside 24 hours. This is true, but
not any good for making fake patina.
I had orange peel on the underlying oxide red color and that was
no good at all. The result looked just awful, so I paimted it black
one more time.
The result in the pic below. The orange peel made it dotty and left
It looking real bad.
Don’t do it like I did. Sand flat with fine grit (320 or 400) before
adding the top color coat.
I might try this again some day.
94
« Last post by Essex_29 on June 18, 2025, 04:14:49 PM »
I just got the new fender edges bead rolled. This is pretty exciting work,
first time for everything.
I really hope this will work out decent. I rolled both the outside edges,
and the inside ones, the ones that look shorter in the pic.
Of course most of these pieces will be cut away, the bulk of the material
is there just to provide rigidity so they wouldn?t get very distorted while
beadrolling and making the new edge.
Originally the edge is made by rolling the sheet metal around a steel wire,
But since the resulting original round edge is about 1/4? thick, I?ll just weld
a 1/4? thick wire to the new fender edge. Hope it works.
95
« Last post by Essex_29 on June 18, 2025, 04:03:08 PM »
Thank you sixball and TFoch.
The shape of the rear fenders is not really to my liking, so I
started cutting.
Pics tell it all. Fenders are too long and need to be tighter.
I started doing pie cuts every one and a half inches, and got it to
look a bit better.
Now the edge is not a smooth curve.
I cut a narrow curved part out of sheet metal to mimick a fender
edge and fastened wit a couple sheet metal screws.
96
« Last post by EDNY on June 18, 2025, 09:32:57 AM »
Yep. Like i said, before prime make sure to clean well. You can sand/ block recoat till your happy and final sand with 360 to 400. When your ready to paint, rewipe spray non sanding sealer and then paint.
Got it! Thanks again
97
« Last post by sammons on June 18, 2025, 07:48:52 AM »
Yep. Like i said, before prime make sure to clean well. You can sand/ block recoat till your happy and final sand with 360 to 400. When your ready to paint, rewipe spray non sanding sealer and then paint.
98
« Last post by EDNY on June 18, 2025, 07:17:05 AM »
To be clear, once I'm down to bare metal (80 grit) and fiberglass (180 grit). I lay down a coat of lacquer primer (thin-able), then a coat of non sanding sealer, then my single stage colors?
99
« Last post by EDNY on June 17, 2025, 08:53:32 PM »
sammons....again - I thank you...was busy today working on a stump grinder...just got inside.
100
« Last post by sammons on June 17, 2025, 07:25:31 AM »
My brother has been using Summit single stage urethane on his projects with good results. Got tired of spending $3000 on bc/cc paint for his drivers.
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