Rusty Bowtie
Miscellaneous => Members Builds - Stocker -Streetrod - Ratrod - LowRider => Topic started by: sammons on March 26, 2014, 07:55:12 PM
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Watch a cripple build his last car, hopefully, haha. My buddies will step in anytime i'm ready or need a hand. Three years ago I had to shut my bodyshop down due to my arthritis, more bad days than good. Those of you that have R.A. know how that goes. My dad sold me the business when his got to bad, he was 48. So this build will not be quick, but I try to do something everyday.
First off, I am glad I stumbled on to this site. It was nice to see all these old Chevys here. Just tired of looking at model A's, 32's, 33-36. Don't get me wrong, they make cool rods but seems everybody has one.
I started looking for a '34-35 coupe just before dad died ('99). He had one in 62-63 and sold it when we moved to So Cal '63. He frequently talked about and wanted another, so did I. Two years ago a freind found one up in Iowa while he was on a sevice call. It was a '34 Master 5w shell. He brought it back in his pickup. Wasn't thrilled with the $1000 buy, but it was a chevy coupe. I really wanted a 3w like dads. Here are pic's before and after of that POS. Luckily I found a 3w just before I got this shell finished, and lucky enough to get it sold.
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Wow....Great work. Looks like that thing came out as straight as an arrow. Should make a real good start for somebody.
Moose
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Thanks moose, it was to say the least a learning lesson.
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Yes indeed, another "Wow" from me too. That body looks perfect, fantastic job.
I hear you on the arthritis thing, and the trouble is, it only gets worse. But I think you know that already. If I don't manage to get my car done in the next two or three years I may never do it. But, fingers crossed...and good luck with yours. :)
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Thanks , Iif you can cross your fingers, your doing better than me. lol well twice I posted with pics, and poof! Gone. Try later, can't hold the phone any longer
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Sammons,
First of all welcome to the site, good to have you here. I think you'll enjoy it. Like the other guys said Wow, nice work on the 5 window. Looking forward to your build on the 3 window. Glad you found the car you were looking for and I'm sure your Dad would be proud.
Tom
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Well, I never actually thought about really crossing my fingers so I just tried. I can JUST cross the tips on my left hand but the right hand only has half an index finger, so that side doesn't work! Hey, 1/2 out of two ain't bad.
Now I need to ask you what that front end is you have, and the rear end as well. That looks like an IRS.
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Ya gotta laugh, can't do anything about it. I was trying earlier to post the 3w build, but I don't own a computer (other than my 1987 Radio Shack tandy) so I have to use this iphone. My fingers don't always hit the right keys. I lose a lot of stuff.
I'm using damn'nert all of a mid '70's burnt corvette ( underhood fire). Picked it up for $1500. I'm using the whole rear frame stub under mine. Grafted the old chevy center rails inbetween. Then I welded on the old frame horns on front. Also used vette crossmember.
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Good idea. I think you just saved yourself a whole ton of work.
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I'll see if it disappears
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Sammons, I have a serious complaint about your last pic. No it's not the doggie - (s)he's lovely!
It's that workshop you have. It's waaay to big and it's clean as a whistle. Hardly fair to show us that...grumble, grumble... ;D ;D ;D
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Thanks, but along with it you have all them bills. I thought it was rather clutered my self. It's 50x75 on a 150x150 corner lot. It has seen many builds. My old bodyshop, we use to rent the north half out to a couple mechanics and there were 3 bodymen/painters on the south back through the early '80's. Now my buddies have moved in on me on the north side with their projects and it's a mess. Might have to have a come to Jesus meeting over that shortly! I'm going to miss it, probably going to sell it as soon as my coupes done. Can't afford to keep it anymore. Hoping to sell to a freind so I can still hang around. :)
Yep that's my old buddie Iin the background. Caught him on fire once, about 10 yrs or so ago when he was a young guy. He keeps his distance now when the welder kicks on.
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Well look at it this way. At least you have one awesome place to build your last car. I've got the width of the car plus about 4 feet!
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Sammons
Welcome aboard as you have found out already there is a group very knowledgeable Chevy guys here of ages, as everybody has said great job on your body looks good
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Really nice job on both the 5 window and the frame you are now working on for the 3 window. I too have the RA thing going on and it has slowed me down alot, but as long as I pace myself I can usually get things done....Welcome you will fit in great here....John
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Cocobolo- I never thought about that. But I'll bet your heat bill is cheaper. Dad bought the shop when I was 9 or 10 and I've always been down there. It was just home so to speak.
62131-thanks, it was quite a learning experience trying to deal with all that rotten wood. I couldn't do it. Just tore it out and replaced it with metal tubing. At least this go around I have a good idea what to do. Boy I wish I would have found you guys two yrs ago. That thing hurt my brain.
Ghost28- thanks also and you're spot on there. Trying to slow down was hard to do. I use to try pushing through the pain, found out bad idea. If I go just 10-15 min after my body says no, I can easily put myself out of comission for several days. Know when to say no! LOL.
I can already tell you are a great group of guys, and I have never seen such a good looking bunch of old chevys all in one place. Truly amazing and thank you!
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Well, you're right. My heat bill is cheaper. It's free. Sadly, that means there is no heat in the garage and this has been one of the longest and coldest winters on record here. Well, all over this province actually. Freezing again tonight!
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Yep, it's been cold enough down this way this winter too. I don't venture out when it's cold anymore. My freind had been working on his gooseneck trailer this winter, so there were a few sunny 30's. I would ask him if he was sure he would be there all day cause I wanted to work on my frame and I would be willing to turn on Bertha ( my overhead heater). Man you could hear the gas meter sing!
Of coarse that also meant I would be needing a hand.
I forgot to ask if your are running the original 64 vette trailing arms, transverse spring or are you changing to a coil over set up. Didn't know how complete a set up you bought.
Edit: brain fade, what front set up? I would assume m ll.
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Yep, it's been cold enough down this way this winter too. I don't venture out when it's cold anymore. My freind had been working on his gooseneck trailer this winter, so there were a few sunny 30's. I would ask him if he was sure he would be there all day cause I wanted to work on my frame and I would be willing to turn on Bertha ( my overhead heater). Man you could hear the gas meter sing!
Of coarse that also meant I would be needing a hand.
I forgot to ask if your are running the original 64 vette trailing arms, transverse spring or are you changing to a coil over set up. Didn't know how complete a set up you bought.
Edit: brain fade, what front set up? I would assume m ll.
No transverse spring on this one, I'm going with coil overs. The original trailing arms were already gone from this setup on the previous car that this one was under. An acquaintance of mine put it under a '31 Chevy sedan with a blown 350 SBC. One of the arms suffered some damage so he replaced the rear end with a 12 bolt.
I recently acquired an excellent book written by the late Alan Staniforth entitled "Competition Car Suspension". I've never seen so much first class information in one book before...this fellow really knew his stuff, and most of it came from his first hand experiences.
So what that boils down to is that I expect to take a shot at building my own front suspension. While I grant you that there are thousands of M2 suspensions around, it is after all, 40 year old technology. If you replace just the coil spring and the shock with a coil over, that in itself is a substantial improvement.
Your 'Vette front end is considerably better than a stock type M2.
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I got a little done the past 4 days. With some help from my good freind Lonnie (adopted Pa). He came down friday and did a lot, he drilled many holes, and got the rivets bucked tight between the fiberglass/metal floor pan. Now the floorpan is done except for the fiberglass work to finish. Got it pushed outside and media blasted all the seam areas.
So then I spent saturday bending up the main hoop (rollbar). I really didn't remember how heavy that damn tubing bender was. Had to take it apart and carry it piece by piece to get it where I wanted to bend at. Then I went home and took a nap! Came back made a conduit pattern and started bending. (7 points) Had to do it in one shot, short on pipe.
Today I got it in the car and welded to the floor. I'd like to see it, but limited space. It will just all be hidden behind the upholstery. At least I know its there.
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Got a little more done, very little. My friend Lonnie came down again today. Got the rear down tubes bent, base plates made, more holes drilled, fitted up and welded. I had the doors tacked in place when I tacked the floorpan in. Then I cut them loose to weld up the rest of the pan. Of coarse now the doors don't line up right. Something pulled, or me moving around on it welding moved it. Anyway lonnie and I spent the afternoon with the port-a-power putting it square again. Then we focused on the rear jambs and got two 1/8" plates welded on each side to the rollbar. Now nothingsgoing to move anymore.
I told Ed I would post some pics of the sretched areas, so I'll post them up first.
Vette floorpan added 10" to rear.
Had to replace cowl, but added 7" to width to go over the now wider frame.
Used '34 master dash added to with standard dash in upper center.
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Here are my rear down tubes.
Lonnie brought down his baby today. Even though it's a '32 Ford. This thing was destroyed in the Greensburg tornado in 2007. Ins. Totaled of coarse, his wife called me up in a panic and I told her how to buy it back. He didn't know it, took a lot to get up again. All that was salvageable was the drivetrain, chassis and grill shell. I dropped the top 2" with doner cab. Anyway he ran out of money before we got to frt. Fenders and paint.
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Update: with my screw up corrected on the firewall, I finally got the cage/structure done today. I'll save cleaning up the welds till later (just the ones that will show). With some help from my buddy I also got my rear body extension bent and tacked in place. I did this on my '34 5w and liked it so I'll do her again.
I bowed a 1 1/2 x 3/4 rectangular tube to tie into the cage and to support the lower windshield area. The rear tubes are 1 1/2" dom, the A pillars and over the doors are 1", and the front down tubes are 1 1/4", center T bar is 3" x 1" .
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Here is what I did to the '34, and the start of my '35.
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You are really gettin er done. That's alot of work. Keep us posted on any progress...John
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Sammons,
Very nice work. That roll bar looks solid. Looking forward to watching the progress on your car. This is a very interesting build.
Tom
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Sammons
Nice work, your moving along quickly
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Thanks guys, seems super slow going to me though. 5 yrs ago this build would have taken me 2 months to do. I guess life is funny that way.
Another good day, I wanted to have the back tail panel finished today. Fell short, but came close. Couldn't hang on to the hammer any longer. I have to finish stretching the tin around the lower bar and then hammer the lower bead in. Then I can tack and weld it up. Haven't figured out exactly how I'm tying in the end lower corners to the wheel well just yet, hopefully tomorrow.
Here is some pics from today
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Few more
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That's really nice Sammons...I only hope my metal skills are that good when I start on the '35. It's been a few years since I beat on some tin.
Are you hoping to have it on the road this year? Or are you on the never-never plan like me?
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Very good fabrication skills! You should be proud of your work.
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Cocobolo, thanks and it'll come back to you when you get back on it. My plans were last fall to have it done this April, haha that ain't happening. Gonna have to bite the bullit and ask for more help I guess, didn't want to do that. I would love to have it done by mid summer for the KKOA show at Salina Ks. I over did it again yesterday, woke up at 3 this morning with my hand looking like I had been snake bit. Maybe a couple days before I can get back to it.
Tom, I just wish it wasn't so hard to do now days. I really enjoy it. I never have been one for store bought parts. I've been following along on your '33, you will be crusing soon looking good. Seat position, I'm trying to accommodate my buddy Tom. I'm 5'9 he is 6'4, and one of these days he's gonna be driving around. Thanks Sammons
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Tom, I just wish it wasn't so hard to do now days. I really enjoy it. I never have been one for store bought parts. I've been following along on your '33, you will be crusing soon looking good. Seat position, I'm trying to accommodate my buddy Tom. I'm 5'9 he is 6'4, and one of these days he's gonna be driving around. Thanks Sammons
Wanted to mention that a 6'4" person would easily fit comfortably in my 33 (5W) coupe (once they got in). The low mounted S10 bench seat is fully adjustable. Of course your head is next to the rear quarter glass!
Ed
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sammons you are on the right track with your build, but take care of your self amd don't be ashamed to ask for help, That's what this hobby is all about. On another note I have done the Salina show a couple years ago before they moved to the new park, and even participated in the drags. What a hoot it was....John
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Ed, there is pleanty of room in my coupe for him. I'm using the adjustable Vette buckets, but...... trying to find the best location for the seat all the way forward for me. I have to be able to push all three pedels. His legs are really long and the seat adjusts only 5".
Question: has anybody extended the seat sliders? Man this would cure everything if I had 10" of adustment. I have pleanty of room for the seat to slide back that far. Tom usually relocates all of his cars drivers seats so he is cocomfortable, needless to say I go to drive his car i can just push the go pedal with the seat all the way forward.
Ghost, thanks and I'm going to have too. My buddy Lonnie has gone to Salina the last 5 years or so, he has a ball every time. He runs his little '32 (ford) pu usually., but when he takes his '55 chevy he is afraid of getting carried away and breaking something. I've always had something else going that weekend, but pretty sure this year coupe done or not.
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Ghost, thanks and I'm going to have too. My buddy Lonnie has gone to Salina the last 5 years or so, he has a ball every time. He runs his little '32 (ford) pu usually., but when he takes his '55 chevy he is afraid of getting carried away and breaking something. I've always had something else going that weekend, but pretty sure this year coupe done or not.
[/quote] Might see ya there. My son/n/law and I are talking about going again this year.
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Ghost, that would be great to meet you there. I have to remember when again, Lonnie knows.
Well I snuck down to the shop and slowly worked the back panel and got it tacked down. Came out good enough for me anyway.
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I got one more little step done thanks to the neighbor kid down the street. He stopped in to see the coupe, and asked if I needed a hand with anything. So I taught him how to use the metal shears and the right way to use tin snips. He loves to help until it turns into work, he is usually gone in an hour. If he would hang around longer he might just learn something useful.
I needed to french in the license plate, and could not find a tag lamp that would work in the tight spot it needs to be. So I rolled some sheetmetal over a 3/4" pipe, capped it and drilled and filed it on each side to accept two 194 sockets. Got it welded up and tack welded to the back panel
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At least he shows some interest. That's cool to take the time to show him some stuff. License plate looks good.
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Thanks Tom. I've always been willing to show ANYBODY how too do stuff. Our local high school use to have a work study program open too seniors. Every year we always had at least one taker untill the late 80's. Dad always offered to pay cash after school hours for the good ones if they wanted to work the rest of the day. It got to be "are you going to pay me?" The school would not allow it during class time. The last kid I had wouldn't come in, (skipping class) and wanted me to sign his time sheet and evaluation. Got all pissed at me for not, geez what did he expect. They no longer offer this, not enough interest I was told.
My cousins son (16) is taking a welding class (still offered) and is getting pretty good. My aunt asked me if I could fix the kids bumper cover on his S10. I told her I would be glad to so him how, but he would have to do it. He takes instruction well and did a good job. I told him if he wanted to come down and do some welding I would appreciate the help on my coupe welding up the cage., also I would show him fab work. He said he wasn't intetested??????
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That tail pan is looking real good.
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Thanks Ghost, now if I can lay my hands on a set of '63-67 tail lamps, I can finish it.
Maybe I can talk my brother into lending me his for a while. He's going to get new ones later, but so am I. I just need them for fitting right now.
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Well that was a lot more work than I remember. It took Lonnie and me 3 1/2 hours with all the breaks we took. I got 160 louvers in it, I guessed about right. Glad that's done, not looking forward to the hood or the belly pan. Definitely getting two more guys next time.
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I like it! It does look like a lot of work. Nice job, real straight.
Tom
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Thanks Tom, that's the pain in the ass part. Setting the first one and making sure it's square, we use to check every 5th one. But because both our grips and my shakes ain't very good we checked every 3rd or 4th. Lonnie said his arms were about to fall off ( he was balancing the deck lid flat over the die) . The flat hoods were a lot easier !
My scraper friend stopped by this afternoon to look at my grill, he said he was hired to clean out a barn that had some car parts in it and he spotted a grill shell. The ol boy just said it was an old chevy. It was complete and had not been cut up like mine and it did have the chevy wing looking emblem w/radiator also. I think he said he was scheduled for friday. I've got my fingers crossed (if I could) he didn't remember if it had a chrome suround or not. We'll see.
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Hope the grill is the right one. Your car is looking great! I allways liked the cheese grater deck lid. Good work.
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Thanks logride. I haven't had the opportunitie to build an old coupe for my self till now. I've always liked the look of a louvered trunk lid, especially when painted black. I like the way the sun shimmers off the louvers.
The grill shell ended up being a Chrysler, I'm guessing late 30's. Once dug out, it was a bit rusty. Mines not bad, it's just had the bottom cut off. Somewhere there has to be thousands of grill shell bottoms, probably along with a bunch of one off socks, lol.
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Thanks logride. I haven't had the opportunitie to build an old coupe for my self till now. I've always liked the look of a louvered trunk lid, especially when painted black. I like the way the sun shimmers off the louvers.
The grill shell ended up being a Chrysler, I'm guessing late 30's. Once dug out, it was a bit rusty. Mines not bad, it's just had the bottom cut off. Somewhere there has to be thousands of grill shell bottoms, probably along with a bunch of one off socks, lol.
Took me about 5 years to find the "V" chin piece for the bottom of my 33 Chevy radiator cover (grill). FYI: Glen Rarick - NY (link below) had some reproduced out of fiberglass.
Ed
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oh thats gonna be fun priming and sanding that louvered deck lid. It can become a major challenge.
I did 37 3" louvers per side on top half of my hood and that was not fun. Waxing it is also major pain. You get to soak all your engine parts thru the louvers when washing car , unless you put a plastic cover over everything.
mike lynch
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Ed, looks like I'll be building a bottom for mine. Thoses things are expensive, I see Superior Glass has them also. Looks like grill and shell would be $600-800, way out of my budget.
Mike, yep sanding around the louvers ain't fun. I never really minded waxing around them, I guess I had a method of doing that (hope I can remember it). With the many black cars I had I got alot of practice, it was the hardest color to get right without streaking or getting fine scratches from the overlapping opposing directions. Dads red '56 chevy p.u. was a very forgiving color, you could be sloppy about it and you didn't notice it. (Always had to wax dads cars for him, and he always had louvers)
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Ed, looks like I'll be building a bottom for mine. Thoses things are expensive, I see Superior Glass has them also.
FYI: I think Glen gets $100 for the lower piece.
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Thanks for the link Ed.
I got my fuel door inner bonded to the deck lid yesterday and test fit the fuel lid. I'm very happy with the way it turned out. I ended up cutting out the fiberglass mount out of the Vette deck as opposed to trying to build it out of sheetmetal. I bowed the pot metal fuel door carfully in the vise to match the curve of the deck lid. I've been using the 3M structure adhesive for about ten years now with excellent results on many types of materials. It will bond almost any material, sand, clean, prep wipe and clamp until it sets.
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That looks great!
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Ed, looks like I'll be building a bottom for mine. Thoses things are expensive, I see Superior Glass has them also.
FYI: I think Glen gets $100 for the lower piece.
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When you say Glen***( Rarick ) *** ??? gets $100 for them.........are you referring to the inside the trunk lid metal liner for a 34- 35 standard series ?
mike lynch
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re >>>>>a rad shell for your 34-35 standard series 3 window coupe. I see these show up on ebay fairly often. $95--200.
The grill mesh is made in stainless steel by harris engineered reproductions of Houston texas , google them as I posted the link in this site in last couple of weeks. They offer it with and without the crank hole cover hole.
They also make the center molding that runs top to bottom.
The crank hole cover is made by I&I repo or THE FILLING STATION, the grill emblem is also made plated less than $40.00
The only tough part to get is the grill trim ring and better to splash out on a good one.
Perfectly the best solution is to find a 34- 35 Chevrolet standard series and purchase the complete rad shell radiator and bracketry assembly as a unit along with the U bracket that mounts the whole assembly to the frame. It will be cheaper in the long run.
mike lynch 8)
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This past week I have actually got something done on the coupe. Because I widened the cab at the frt, I was unable to use my 2nd gen camaro roof to fill the top in, I had to use a 67 mustang roof (a little wider). Got it welded in and ground the welds. My buddie came down yesterday and helped me dolly out the seams, that was easy enough. Got the flash rust buffed back off ok. The mustang roof had a bad length wise crease down it, most dollied out good except for the really deep stretch at the left frt. Just a little high yet, no longer have my torch to shrink with, so I slit it w/cut off wheel and welded back up, nice and flat now. Then..... tried mixing first batch of filler for the seams, by the timeI got it mixed up...it was hard. Round two, gritting my teeth from the pain, got to thecar and the second pass looked like a 3rd grader did it. Tried smoothing it out w/my left hand, and by now it got hard. 3rd go round figued it out kind of, it will work, but looks like a first timer did it. Got out the air long file and 40grit, heaved it up on the roof, grabbed a hand full of trigger and almost pissed myself! My loose knuckles don't like that at all. Plan B- got the grinder out and dressed it, got the long hand board out. Can do, but it's gonna take a while. And I want this shinny black?
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Nice work all around. Shiny black ya better pace your self. I love the filler door.
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Ed, looks like I'll be building a bottom for mine. Thoses things are expensive, I see Superior Glass has them also.
FYI: I think Glen gets $100 for the lower piece.
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When you say Glen***( Rarick ) *** ??? gets $100 for them.........are you referring to the inside the trunk lid metal liner for a 34- 35 standard series ?
mike lynch
Mike
Sorry for not responding to this post earlier..didn't realize that you asked the question. The V trim piece I'm talking about is the one that installs on the front radiator grill at the very bottom. BTW: Glen Rarick sold me the water drain channel that mounts inside the trunk and mounts on the fenders, it's one piece and rectangular in shape.
Ed
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Well I guess any progress is progress. I got the upper cowl worked and primed, the more primer I spray the better I feel. I think my lungs miss it. Got a partial skim coat on top edges. 2-tone anyone?
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Sammons, that roof looks pretty nice to me. When you are priming that cowl....breathe deep, everything looks better then.
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Sammons, looking real good. You're right even a little bit of progress is good and you can step back, check it out and smile!
Tom
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Chopper, thanks man. My doc used to tell me I never got sick or any infections because of all the chemicals. He said nothing could survive that. lol. All I ever needed was stitches when masking tape wouldn't work!
Tom thanks, it's slowly gettin there. When it's done I would like to drive this thing up that old Missouri Mules butt that stopped in today!!!!
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Chopper, thanks man. My doc used to tell me I never got sick or any infections because of all the chemicals. He said nothing could survive that. lol. All I ever needed was stitches when masking tape wouldn't work!
Tom thanks, it's slowly gettin there. When it's done I would like to drive this thing up that old Missouri Mules butt that stopped in today!!!!
You know what stops the clowns dead in their tracks........."didn't I see you on the Jerry Spring show " . "You were a contestant on the GONG SHOW weren't you ?, you look awful familiar ". "Have you taken your medications today" ?
And the absolute best one......."do you have medical dental coverage ? "
mike 8)
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OH! OH! aren't you the fellow from way up north. I got to love it MIKE. OH i had a car just like that one once. lol lol OH YEH
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Well finally after the last 4 days (@ 1hr at a time), the cowl/firewall is blended in and done ( till the body is off again), then I can take care of any left over pin holes or sand scratches. At least all evidence of adding 7.5" to the width is gone. I wanted all the original spot welds to show, so just before priming I got a 1/4" wooden dowel rod, rounded the edge, stuck it in the drill and put the dimples back in. Now when I prime and block they should fill in just right. Too me this should be the end of the difficult part of the body work. With wrists and fingers not working it was a real pain doing this tedious small work. Here is some pics, now a can rest a while!!
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Sammons that is a huge accomplishment, congrats. I can appreciate what it takes to get your car to another step in the process. I know when I made a big step like that it gave me incentive to get more done. Just take some time now and enjoy it! Nice work!!!
Tom
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Sammons That looks great. Attention to detail is what it's all about.....Now, what's this about you resting for awhile? :D
Moose
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Nice job buddy. You can't even tell you added to the width, the detail is gonna be what sets it apart.
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Thanks guys. I still can't believe how slow I am these days.
Looking at my pics this morning, I really should have at least rounded the top of the Vette brake/clutch pod (like the top of an old fridge), the lines would have flowed better. I got to keep reminding my self that it's going to be a daily driver. I guess if I ever get around to building a hood top, it will be covered any way.
Moose the rest is kind of a laugh, but I do need it. I pushed to hard this weekend, broke another coffee cup this morning, just no grip. I told little sis yesterday when she asked what color (black) what a shame, cause the first dirt road I come too, it's gonna get throwed sideways and probably just going to get the paint peeled off anyway.
Ya'll have a good day, i'm headed for a nap already.
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That looks great, Sammons!! But you can't slow down now, cold weather is right around the corner.......
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I got the sheet metal cut out/replaced on the front of the rear wheel tub. Wanted to cover the frame and have an access door to the rear control arm nut. Now if I can duplicate the other side tomorrow.
Decided just to use fastners instead of building an inner structure and hinges. The only reason to open is to replace/service gas tank. So I got my 1/4 turn fastners in saturday for the trunk lid. Got the four corners intalled. I have to refit the gaps in the center before I install the center ones. I'm using # 9 clothes line wire welded to the edge to fill/grind to get an even 1/8" gap.
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What do you guy's think? I want a rear bumper, just to save the tail from less damage should it happen. I may have to give back the tubing bender soon, so I thought I had better get something bent up today. This will be a bolt on when done, so.....
I played around with some upright nurfs, just didn't look right for the car. The car will have a bit of an old circle track look when I'm done.
I moved it in further, no.(no pic) I ran it just outside body lip, yes. ( first two pics) I moved it out further, no.(last pic)
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Very nice work ;)...I like the rear bumper up tight like in the first pics.
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looks like its designed with the car when its real close to the body tail. Question is can it take a light whack without bending into the body and causing damage ??
mike lynch,,,,,,,,,,,SHAZZBOTT 8)
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Thanks guy's, I want it to blend in rather than look out of place. I had to radius it to match tail (I like parallel lines) and used 1 3/4" x .118 wall rollbar tubing. I have many strong points under that Vette rear stub to tie to. I will have approx 3/16" flat plate to make outers (like the older ford p.u. rear bumpers had) and probably a couple in the middle ( radius rod style tube). That's one area Mike that most forget to think of. And yes it's easy to create more damage if not braced properly. The up and down i'm going to play with when it gets back on the ground. Just curious if you fellas thought it looked alright.
Mike, how are you feeling, getting close to recovery yet?
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Sammons,
Call me old school but I like it out a little bit. I think the bumpers changed the whole look of my car. I think somewhere in between the two pics would be to my liking just out a bit. Nice work either way though.
Tom
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Sammons
I think that it would look better with out the bumper. I understand your concerns about having one, but I think adding something other than original will take away from the look of the car. Of coarse that's just my opinion.
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I definitely like it without a bumper. Earlier today I thought about hiding it tight behind the tail (nothing showing). Haven't thrown that idea out yet. If I did that I could weld it directly to the frame and still get the body off. I guess I'll have to get it back down on the ground and see if the external bumper will be high enough to help any if I get bumped in traffic/ or Wally World parking lot.
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sammons, you get periods thru the day where you feel you can take a block wall and total it with your hands, then 10 minutes later you feel this cloud like feeling settling over you and you have to sit down and gather yourself together. Its a strange feeling. Not a fan of it.
Am progressing slowly, as this is my 3rd Monday after being released from hospital stay. I thought the recovery time was going to be quicker. Wife says am doing great, just drove my s10 today for first time since this all started.
Gave the 35 coupe a big hug yesterday after I fired it up and let run for a few minutes. Not getting behind the wheel of ole black until I am 100% better. After 44 years of ownership , I owe it that.
mike lynch ....... 8)....SHAZZBOTT
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sammons, you get periods thru the day where you feel you can take a block wall and total it with your hands, then 10 minutes later you feel this cloud like feeling settling over you and you have to sit down and gather yourself together. Its a strange feeling. Not a fan of it.
mike lynch ....... 8)....SHAZZBOTT
Glad you are on the mend Mike, sorry the recovery is taking longer. I'm not familiar with your condition, but I am, unfortunately familiar with that feeling (3-4 days a week). Maybe a week or two you will be back in the old Chevy!! Yep, you need to be 100% for that gem.
Take care and I hope your recovery will be soon.
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Thank you SAMMONS. I appreciate your positive thoughts. !
Not going anywhere near the roadster or coupe and power tools until I am right 100% .
I like the wheel well work you did on your coupe. The round bar bumper is really a safety issue . A tiny bump to the body metal can make for many hours of very aggravating repair time.
mike lynch.......... 8)..........SHAZZBOTT
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I spent the last several days filling/fitting trunk gaps, grinding, filling in missing chunks, hammering out dents. Every time I think I'm getting close to getting off the back of the car I find more crap to deal with. But I guess I'm getting something done anyway.
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Guess it's getting shiney somewhat. That old surface rust is really tough on this one, try to grind it off is like the buffer just melting and moving around old lacquer. I welded #9 clothes line to body, then grind back to get the gaps right. Also on the rear tub bottoms to stiffen up (where it originally had a 90° 3/8" lip ).
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I spent the last several days filling/fitting trunk gaps, grinding, filling in missing chunks, hammering out dents. Every time I think I'm getting close to getting off the back of the car I find more crap to deal with. But I guess I'm getting something done anyway.
picture #3 and 4 , excellent repair to the side of trunk drip rail. !!!!!!
mike lynch.......... 8)
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Thanks Mike, I should have got it a little straighter,(a cherry got me when i tacked it) but there will be no reason to get inside trunk. No usable space once fuel tank is in. It's just everytime I think I'm close I see more stuff like that. Today i hope to tackle the bottom drip rail. Then sit and think how to sheet metal around the interior windows so the trim will go back on. My head hurts already !
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that old chevolet is looking really really nice work. I know how hard it can be.
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Its looking really good, They can a real pain sometimes, your comment about sitting and thinking about how to do something reminds me how I told people that a1/3 of my time working on 38 was setting and thinking on how to do it.
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I try to do most of my planning while I am in work......don't tell my boss ::)
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Grumble grumble, gonna have to back off on the steering shaft for the time being. I'm still not happy with it yet. At least it still feels like a Vette on the inside. Time to move on to what I know. Made the cardboard pattern and got the metal cut and fit. Now the pillar post is boxed and welded to the cage. Maybe tomorrow I can do the right side. Then I'll put the wiper motors back in and build the inner windshield header. This will all give me away to intstall the garnish moldings and upholstery.
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Looking at your headers and steering column location coming out of the firewall, I can see your problem.
The steering column actually needs to be coming thru much lower on the firewall , like the stock location. That way the column will come in UNDERNEATHE the header pipe and allow you a straight shot to your steering box.
Sit down and look at it for a couple of minutes and will make sense .
mike lynch 8) shazzbott 35 roadster and old black 35 3 w coupe
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Yep, that's why I'm stopping for now Mike. I was trying to route it with out cuting up the original Corvette column hanger. The engine, trans, floor pan, firewall is 3.5" higher and 10.5" futher back from where they were located in the Vette. So when I get back to it...... cut cut cut !
Are you feeling good and back to normal Mike?
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Keep up the good work it looks great!
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Yep, that's why I'm stopping for now Mike. I was trying to route it with out cuting up the original Corvette column hanger. The engine, trans, floor pan, firewall is 3.5" higher and 10.5" futher back from where they were located in the Vette. So when I get back to it...... cut cut cut !
Are you feeling good and back to normal Mike?
Sammons, all you need is the correct size hole saw to re-make the opening for the column to go thru. The stock location , if you can still see where it was, is perfect. Then just figure out how long of a column drop 3--5" and the size for the column tube you need. A securely attached dash panel is all you need to attach the column........put the vette one in the trash.
I will be installing a tilt telescoping column in my 35 roadster. I have one in my 35 coupe also.
Finally on October the 3rd I was able to go out to garage and do some work on shazzbott without getting tired and feeling like all my strength was leaving me, forcing me to sit down for a while. Have been A OKAY since. Thanks for asking.
mike lynch ...... 8)
m
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Sammons, I think Madmike is onto it. I had a similar problem with my car, except the steering wheel hanger that was on there was muffler clamp :o I used a 3" drop column mount and although my shaft wasn't in real threat of hitting my headers, it did put my wheel, and the steering shaft and steering box at a much more desireable angle.
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Thanks guys, I'll have to think about it all later. I could no longer afford the bills at my shop, so i'm dealing with selling it to my buddie. Hated to see it come to that, but I have no choise in the matter. Good news is I get to stay, with very few changes. Also my clumsy butt fell Up the stairs sunday morning so along with a bruised ego, so are my ribs (tread plate) and elbows (tile floor). So i'm on hold for a bit.
Thanks again, and i'll post when I get back to it.
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Keep the faith, brother, it will all get better.
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Sammons
Sorry to hear about your situation...
Have you thought about using one of these offset steering boxes? Been collecting SBC timing gears and chains w/plans to make my own some day.
(http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a383/EdJacobi/th.jpg) (http://s15.photobucket.com/user/EdJacobi/media/th.jpg.html)
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Sammons,
Sorry you took a tumble. Hope you heal up real quick!
Tom
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Thanks guys, no biggie. I swear I could here my 'ol man laughing and calling me a dumb a$$. I was out of coffee, had my readers on scanning the Bow tie,(I only had 2.5 stairs to go from the garage to the kitchen) glanced down not thinking and miscalulated the first step.lol
Ed I thought about that the other day. Pulled a couple gears out of my pile, it would be a very short chain. @ $600 I sure ain't buying one. As for the shop, it's all cool. I'm just thankfull he was in the position to do so. I had to appologise to him, I wanted to give it to him in a few years, just couldn't last out that long.
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Ed I thought about that the other day. Pulled a couple gears out of my pile, it would be a very short chain. @ $600 I sure ain't buying one.
You definitely have the skill to make one and motorcycle grade chain would be sufficient.
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Well the shops all settled and my ribs healed up it's back to work. Got my w/s wiper motors relocated and the old holes filled. Cut the sheet metal out for the new header panel and rolled using my high dollar bending pipes ;D. Test fit to mark access holes for the w/motors, flanged and then made the covers. Barely got it welded up (very crappie looking welds), I can only work over my head for a few mins at a time. Welds ground and covers back on.
Now maybe after a nap, I'll try to figure out how to cut/fit the rear top section of the 2dr sedan to make the rear inner panel. Then I'll build the sides (from front header to rear) If that works i'll be able to just make the center a bow headliner.
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Sammons if you are needing some sprockets and chain let me know as I can get you a deal as I sell things like that for a living. Motor cycle chain is a #50 O-ring chain. If you need to know the stencil strength of different sizes of chain I have that information as well.
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Thanks 62131, if it comes to running chain, I'll get a hold of you. I would need advise on chain size etc.
I don't know how I . missed your 2dr build. That's cool, I wanted to build one of those about 6yrs ago, but the deal fell through. Dad was a 1/3rd owner in a 29-32(thought '29) Pontiac 2dr sedan dirt track car back in the mid sixty's. Loved the look of it.
Sorry about the blury old pics
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Well the shops all settled and my ribs healed up it's back to work. Got my w/s wiper motors relocated and the old holes filled. Cut the sheet metal out for the new header panel and rolled using my high dollar bending pipes ;D. Test fit to mark access holes for the w/motors, flanged and then made the covers. Barely got it welded up (very crappie looking welds), I can only work over my head for a few mins at a time. Welds ground and covers back on.
Now maybe after a nap, I'll try to figure out how to cut/fit the rear top section of the 2dr sedan to make the rear inner panel. Then I'll build the sides (from front header to rear) If that works i'll be able to just make the center a bow headliner.
I may not be saying much but those welds look better than I could do, and it's not really structural. I like the access panels too, keeps everything neat and clean looking.
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You do nice work Sammons. Love those old pics of the dirt track cars.
Tom
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Yes that over head panel really looks better than the box design everybody uses.
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The arthritis may hurt your hands. But you still have great metal skills. Keep up the good work. I wish I had someone like you when I was a kid.
You would not been able to get rid of me.
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Thanks 32, now with no grip left it's really challenging. I sure wish I could have found a kid interested in learning. Kind of like girlfreinds, they all want to go out in the cars when they are done, but complain about me spending time on the build :-[
I haven't had time to get back on the coupe headliner. I'll have to section it out like a chop top job to get it to fit. I've been over seeing a rebuild of my freinds chevy wench truck. We stuffed a Cummings in it 15yrs ago and painted it. It got run down with heavy use and some rust issues, so it was time for a complete (chassis, motor, body) he painted it yesterday and wants me to try to layout some flames tonight. Don't know if my hands can stretch out tape anymore, but i'll try. He will be helping me with my chassis rebuild this winter (if I get that far)
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Keep the faith, Sammons, just keep moving forward a little at a time. I thought I might have been the only one with a headliner problem, but I guess not. Are you going to use metal on the headliner too? Good luck with the flames. And, I am sure you will be driving by spring!
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Chopper I thought about going all metal, but that would be the easy way out and not the look I want. It will get a bow style in the center, with the extra material streching forward to the windshield. I'll be ordering two '66 mustang headliners (in Dk Red) to do the job. I should have enough on one, but too close to call. I'll then figure out how to apply it to the rear (top/back window area). I have an idea involving partial bows and foam. We'll see.
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Sammons, good luck with the headliner, I think I can sort of picture what you are shooting for. I went the easy way. I just reread you entire build. You did more since March than I did in the 4 years I have owned my car! I don't see where anything can slow you down!
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Thought I was recovered from laying out flames monday night, wrong. Only got a couple hrs in today, but it's progress. Looks like my dumb idea is going to work, at least the rear inner metal part.
I cut two 2" wide X 38" strips of sheet metal, (that's as long as my brake will take)bent a 90°, then formed it with my shrinker/stretcher to fit around the rear window and spliced together (where the wood use to be. Then sectioned out the old rear top and spot welded to the oval i just made. Maybe tomorrow i will get a corner (or two hopeful) cut and fit.
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You are rockin on that car. Great job, and great ideas.
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Excellent metal work! Keep them pictures coming!
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Sammons, no kidding, man, that looks awesome. I don't know you, but it doesn't look like a little arthritis is slowing you down much. Go man, go!!
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Thanks for the nice comments fellas, I'm trying. It's just really a pain in the a$$ waiting for someone to show up to do alot of cutting or holding for me. I was use to doing everything without any help. My buddie Tom's brother has moved back here for a while and gave me a hand yesterday, hopefully today also.
Chopper, nice job on the chop. I find masking tape very handy on the processes also.
This is what really has me slowed. This is as far as my right hand will straighten out. Believe it or not a year ago it just looked like my left hand does today.
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Geez, Sammons, I'm really soory, that's messed up and you're a young guy. Just hang in there and keep the faith, you have a lot of talent, buddy!
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Wow ! To perform that caliber of craftsmanship with two good hands would be something , but to perform it going through what you are with your hands is Amazing. Great metal work. On a side note what shrinker/stretcher are you using ? Best of luck on the rest of the metal work.
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Dugeman, I cought them on sale as a pair from Eastwood. I made a simple bracket that bolts on with two bolts and simply slides into the vise and you just snug up the vise. I need to make another ( tired of swapping them out) with out the hook that slides over the end of the vise jaws, it WILL walk up on you!!
The bracket base plate is 1/4"x10.5"x2.5". The bottom clamp bar is 5/8"x5" square bar stock. The vise hook is 1/8"x4" angle iron. Need to measure the thickness of you vise jaws on the highth on this. Works great.
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Well no help today, so I didn't get much done. I did get the inner corners cut and fit. Maybe you can see what I was after anyway. I'll be happy with it, now when that's welded in I can bend the sides up and connect. I'll have to make provisions for the headliner bows to set in. So I best get the headliner ordered so I know wher to put them.
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I see where you are going with this and it is going to look like nothing else out there. I can't wait for you to finish it and get the headliner in. Looks great, man!!
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I understand what your going for there. That's some nice work, its looking great.
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Any of you guy's with 33-35's running sunvisors (interior)? I got the Mustang catalog out to order the headliner, they have '66 sunvisors (same color as headliner) for$40 a pair. I never put them back in my'57 2dr HT and never really missed them. Just curious if they were really necessary.
I'll be sitting quite a distance back with my alterations.
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You might need those sunvisors when your car is done and you are riding with your girl by your side off into the sunset...... ;D
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I think I pissed her off already, haven't seen her since I said no to the "laying on of hands" a second time. Scared they might have brought out the snakes, lol. I'll have to get a new one now, or when it's done.
(I truly ment no disrespect to those using snakes in religious activities, just creeps me out) ???
Maybe try it first and see. I generaly pull over for a break when heading west about that time of day anyway.
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I have a thing about sun visors, I don't like them as I'm tall enough that If used while driving they block my view.
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I think I pissed her off already, haven't seen her since I said no to the "laying on of hands" a second time. Scared they might have brought out the snakes, lol. I'll have to get a new one now, or when it's done.
(I truly ment no disrespect to those using snakes in religious activities, just creeps me out) ???
Maybe try it first and see. I generaly pull over for a break when heading west about that time of day anyway.
Ah, she'll come around. If not, well that might give you a little extra time on your car. I went out with a girl whose sister-in-law went to a church where they talked in tongues. I was respectful, but I didn't get it. As far as those visors, I guess you can always add them later.
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Yep, she does tougnes too. I got in trouble for saying a friend of mine sounds just like that when he drinks to much whiskey. ;D
Need to trim overlaps and get her welded up and sprayed(and the inside of the roof) with Total Coat before I put it back in. I'll insulate before I put the headliner in. One more panel to fab (center upper filler) we are supposed to get cold on Vetrans Day (34°) it was 78 today. Trying to get the inner sprayed before tues.
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looks great, when you get that piece in all you will have left to finish is the center?
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Thanx, pretty much. I'll have to put in the bear claws then I can set the lower rear panels. Then on to the doors, that should be alot easier, well vent delete/power windows, maybe not.
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I put bear claw latches in, I used the pre made install kit and they went in easy.
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I can't wait to see how you bring this interior all together. Bear claws are the only way to go if you are going to drive the car at all. Initially I was just going to leave the wedges, then I got a pair of the mini claws because I didn't think I had the room. Then I just put in a pair of the big bear claws.
What lower panels are you talking about, Sammons, the rockers?
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These, I'll cut a hole later for the 6x9 speakers in them. The rockers are done already. I was really hopeing to be driving this winter, I hope it does as good in the snow as my old '69 Vette. It would really push snow with the tire chains on. People around here called it the snow shark :)
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Oh, ok, I thought you were talking about an exterior panel.
I can't imagine driving either one of those cars in the snow. Chains on a Corvette? A 1969 Corvette :o
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Yep, the snow shark would push 2 foot of snow (fresh powder) without much care. Had that car for over 20yrs. Frame still looked new. I really drive my stuff, rain or snow. Keep them clean, no problem. They don't use much salt around here. My buddy won't get his out if there is the slightest chance of rain.
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I owned a 1964 stingray and when winter showed up I would put it up for the winter no way would I have drove it in the snow.
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Yep, the snow shark would push 2 foot of snow (fresh powder) without much care. Had that car for over 20yrs. Frame still looked new. I really drive my stuff, rain or snow. Keep them clean, no problem. They don't use much salt around here. My buddy won't get his out if there is the slightest chance of rain.
I had a '68, '70 and '73 Corvette, all convertibles. I had no problem driving them daily, rain or shine, but I am like 62131 and your buddy, the first sign of snow and it stayed in the garage. And, I can't imagine having chains on it. My luck I would spit a chain and take out the quarter panel :-[
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For the first 15yrs I owned it, this was my daily driver, and very dependable. I had to sell my damnert new '78 Silverado 4x4 to buy it. I had to park it on the street, no driveway or garage back then, and only liability Ins.
For entertainment (small town games, late 70's mid 80s) when a snow storm came in, we would chain up, grab a couple six packs, and wait till the City Marshall would clear out the beer joint and go home. Then game on, we would cruise main street, stay off the side streets untill the snow got deep or done, then we would see who could plow down the most virgin streets. We wouldn't quit till every street in town had been violated. Many got stuck, even 4x4's, but my '69 never did. Those were the days :D
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I got my bows made today and test fit. Looks like three will do itas far as the rear liner, and by chance the lastmain falls just ahead of the rear cap. That makes all the stock Mustang bow spacing just right for the coupe.(forward from rear inner liner). Second pic shows how close the just one Mustang headliner came from being enough. I've got to cut and sew on another piece (at the two short bows) to finish out the rear. I believe it's gonna work. Just goes to show if you want something bad enough, there is a way ;D
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Are you going to put in any type of insulation between the headliner and metal insert?
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You bet, overkill like crazy. I'm using a product called Total Coat Sound Control that gets sprayed too the underside of the roof (already done) then on the outside and inside of the liner, then it gets a layer of vinyl/bubble/foil glued to the roof, then when all done before the headliner gets installed the final time frt and rear liner cavities will get stuffed with fiberglass insulation. I want it quite on the inside!
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Sammons, you are not a mechanic. You are not a technician. You......are an artist! 8)
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Haha chopper, i think not. It's just a different idea, and the fat lady's far from singing on this headliner. It's just what I want and I'll give her all I got to try to make it work.
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Sammons, you are not a mechanic. You are not a technician. You......are an artist! 8)
I agree.
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That's what building what you want takes. keep trying until you get it the way you want it.
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Well, whatever it is, I can't wait to see it finished, it's gonna look bad........and by that I mean good!
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I think it will look great as it will not be a flat upholstered panel as seen in most car.
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Yea, I took the easy way out, and I didn't think it was easy. I can't imagine bowing the headliner. I am interested to see how you finish of the sides Sammons and what made you choose a Mustang headliner?
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After putting one in my mustang, it looked good, the material worked (stretched) well, liked the color, used a mustang roof to fill in my coupe, just sounded logical ;D
The 'ol man had me laughing like crazy this morning. Came back in from his morning duties and was full of piss and vinigar. I went in to make coffee and heard him raising cain in the garage, he was growling and pulling the welder around in circles. I sat down to watch and then he pulled it over too me, nutz!
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Sammons, it looks like that dog just wants to please you.
Dogs are good animals, very loyal. I have 3: a German Shepard, Australian Shepard, Australian/German Shepard mix. All good dogs. My wife hates them, maybe that's why I like them.
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Chopper 526 I had a police and alsation for 17 years, one of the best friends i ever had and i miss her still
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I had a German shepard 2 dogs back, hell of a dog.
Got my seat covers, carpet kit('76 vette), and tail lights, pig tails ('66 vette) ordered. Got the rest of the headliner sewn up. After pic I let it set in the sun for an hour and it really started laying down. It's just held loosely with clothes pins, I think it's going to stretch out alright. I got the rear inner liner total coated inside and out, so maybe this weekend I can get it welded in. Also got a new liner installed in the welder, my friend came by and set the bottle on and give me a hand holding the headliner while I did my sewing.
A pic with the new tires.
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Sammons your head liner is looking great, the tires look good also. Your moving right along.
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Hey guys, that's how I got my name, "Chopper" for the Rusty Bowtie. Chopper was the name of a German Shepard I had when I was single. That dog went EVERYWHERE with me. She died about 18 years ago, she was the best. She was that dog that just understood English, everything I said. Great dog.
Anyway, Sammons that headliner looks like it is going to be great. I put a headliner in a Mustang once, what an ass ache! How you can take one and adapt it like that is beyond me.
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I put a bow type headliner in my 38, It was the first time I ever attempted to install one. It really wasn't that bad, what I was most concerned about was leaving wrinkles. As the instruction stated was to stretch it as tight as could be done and over time the heat would cause it to shrink and get tighter. It turned out really good.
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Sammons,
I'm impressed with your work. This has been a great thread to follow. I like the way you're going with the interior. I will have to do some of that work on mine so I'll be watching. I had a yellow lab many years ago that would have done anything for me. He definitely would have enjoyed a ride in my car.
Tom
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Sammons, how's that headliner coming?
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Hasn't been Chopper, had a nasty R.A. flare up sat afternoon. Just got back in the garage and managed to get the insulation in. It's starting to look like an infared oven in there. UPS man stopped in and dropped off a bunch of parts. I sent my brother a sample of the headliner to match as close as he could to factory Vette seat covers. He has the Corvette Pacifica home office where he lives in Calif. So I got the simple plete design.
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I managed to get the rear linner in, welded to the main hoop on top and around the rear window. Had to get my redneck metal former rigged up to bend the curve on the side filler panel. Got a couple tack welds to hold it, tomorrow (hopefully) i'll get the headliner mocked back up on the rear so I can mark where the bows will fall on the side rails. Then pull them back off, figure out how to indent them and get the holes drilled and I need to extend one bow then get them fitted. :o, I got a lot to do
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Sammons, let me guess, are those seat covers called "Oxblood"?
It sounds like you have a lot ahead of you, but you are just being humble. Seeing your past work and with your pedigree, you will figure it out and knock it out in no time.
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Chopper that's the color I was after"oxblood red". This is as close to it as it comes for these C3 style seats, one year only color for '76 vette, "firethorn red". To go spot on I would have to go to an upholstery shop, and spend more money. These were $279 for the pair,(were here in 6 days) ;D and I know they are right.
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I was trying to figure out how to indent the side panels for the bow rods..... duhh, I forgot I had a beadroller ::) . I had to split the rods in the center for the cage brace (didn't see that coming). I think i'm getting closer, my masking tape ain't holding very well to see what needs tweeking. Got some guerilla tape for tomorrow.
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Man Sammons that's looking great. I might have to get you to stretch the roadster top, but I'm sure your hands ache as bad as mine.
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Like Ghost said that is looking great!
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Ghost, it has to be easier to stretch over than inner. This over the head crap is killing me. I'd sure as hell give you a hand if I was a little closer. Do four bad hands equal a good pair? ;D
Thanks Tom. I just went out to the garage to study a bit more, I may have to separate the panel running through the rear window and sew in a new flat one in. That's the original mustang there. I'm feeling alot better on the sewing machine. I don't think i could ever get the wrinkles out around the window the way it is. Good thing I bought two headliners :)
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After some serious studying on the headliner, I have a better understanding (I think ) of how this should go. So I spent the day pulling stitches, i'm starting all over. ::)
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Sammona the head liner is looking good, I guess by now you have it figured out
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After some serious studying on the headliner, I have a better understanding (I think ) of how this should go. So I spent the day pulling stitches, i'm starting all over. ::)
Sammons, NO WAY!? It's that bad? No question you know what you want and what you are doing. Keep us posted. Sorry.
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Sometimes it takes two to three times to get it right, that's what gives us experience and desire to get it right
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That's right 62131. Chopper, i'm going to tear it apart and do it again and again till it suits me. Everytime it gets better!
I've figured out some, take it one panel at a time. It's a pain in the ass, sewing on the listing and hanging it up each time to measure/ relocate the bows. I've added one more bow up front (next to the front header), that helped a lot.
Here is where i'm at tonite.
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Sammons That's looking good, I believe you just about have it, the wrinkles should go away when you start to stretch it place.
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Sammons, that looks incredible!! I know what you mean, get it right the first time, otherwise, eveytime you get in the car it will haunt you. What's the plan for the sail panels?
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Thanks chopper, it isn't done yet but it's getting closer. The sail panels will get sewn in with the rest of the headliner, and will run down to the cage cross bar (where the shoulder harnesses mount.) Regular vinyl upholstery from there down.
I let the aluminum insert on my '57 dash slide (no biggie) but it drove me crazy every time I looked down at it. Didn't have the money to replace it, (now they don't cost that much.)Yep it's my last go-round so it's got to suit me ;D I won't beable to re-do it later.
I'm sure glad I'm tackling this now and not after paint. I have dropped tools all over the car. It would be a chipped up dented mess by now.
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Sail panels sewn into the headliner???!!!!! You are a glutton for punishment! You will have had that headliner in and out 100 times by the time you are done. ;D
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After you sew in your sail panels and put it back in, I see in your picture a metal strip around the belt line of the roof is this how your going to attach the bottom?
I learned a trick from an upholstery guy here that helped me on the installation of my headliner. He told me to attach my wind lace to the door opening the make some metal strips about 2" wide the same contour of the body and attach that just above the wind lace then get some door edge guard and slip over the edge of the metal so that when you tucked the head liner under it would not cut it.
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62131, that strip you see is where I mask off before shooting the sound deadner. I've still got to weld in the rear sheetmetal panels there.
That's a good idea on the tucking/windlace. My plans are to glue the headliner around the perimeter of the door opening then the windlace. Then cut the metal retainer (like you said) only it will be about 1" wide and covered in upholstery, and trim screwed in place.
Is just the good fitting windlace air tight, or do you need additional weather stripping?
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The wind lace is air tight, but my 38 has weather striping also.
If you install the wind lace first then the metal strip with the edge guard just above the wind lace you can tuck the head liner under the metal strip and you will get a cleaner look with less work.
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Knowing what I know now, I should have just ordered the material and started from scratch. The material would have been plenty long enough ( and a lot cheaper). I didn't have a grasp on how one was really made untill now. You are right on a cleaner/ simpler install and i like the idea. But, as you can see by the pic, the Mustang headliner is not wide enough to tuck. I don't think I have that option now.
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You're right there's not enough material around the door opening for you to tuck. So now I understand why you are going to make a trim panel.
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Well with Christmas over, and everybody gone, I got back to work. My niece's bofreind gave me a hand bending the angel brackets, and poprivet'd them in for my rear lower inner int.panels. I got the taillamp buckets built and welded in today, what a pain.
Spotted a cage work for fiberglass street beast bodies, liked the door crash bars in them. With limited space in the doors I think this will work, maybe two rows. Luckily my buddy Tom had taken these out of his stock trailer when he filled in the windows.
Oh, got my Vintage Air heat/ac gen ll ordered today. :)
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Sammons,
Nice work on those tail light buckets! Nice material for the crash bars. I used a Vintage Air Heater/Defroster in my 33. Very happy with it and great technical support.
Tom
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Thanks Tom, I sure like them.
I really hated to cut down this nice grill shell, but that's what I got it for. I had to take 5 1/2" out of it. 1" lower on top and 4 1/2" raised on the bottom ( didn't ever want to scrape it on anything). Now i don't have to wonder what to do with the crank hole in grill. Maybe tomorrow i'll get my radiator mounted so I can fit the grill shell.
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Nice work on everything. How big is your radiator gonna be?
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Thanks Ghost, the radiator is 18"w x23"t aluminium 4 core.
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Decided to mount the radiator as low as possible in the crossmember. It has quite a bow to it, so I cut two notches yesterday. I got the box's made, fit, and welded in.
Went down to the auto parts store(where my last job was. My friend owns it, he's the one I recently laid out the flames for) and picked up two exhaust manifold spring sets for the lower mounts. Dang I resigned almost two years ago and he still sells me parts at store cost! ;D
I welded the studs to the underside of the box's so I don't have to fiddle with reaching up in the crossmember. So now to find some rubber cushions for the mount tabs, so I can set it. Next will be to get the grill shell fitted. :)
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Nice and clean. Your grinder looks just like one that I have. The damn thing will hurt you if your not carefull. ???
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Yep Ghost, bad-fast they'll hurt you! Been there. It really got my dad years back. He lost his grip, caught an edge and got him deep in the wrist, tendons etc. :-\ If I can't get a decent grip that day, I leave it be!
Got radiator mounted, lower anyway. The sway bar will fit behind. Now to figure mounts and shroud. I know in the pic the grill shell looks real high, but it sticks down 3" below the front speader and 9" off the ground. I plan on doing a little more lowering on the ride height after all the weight is added and it settles.
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Sammons I like the way you notched your cross member to accommodate the lowering of the radiator and the grill shell, is it necessary to mount the radiator on springs since it will be mounted solid to the cross member? Will you be running a hood?
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62131,
Dad always told me it was. He use to work in a radiator shop in his youth. He said that a radiator has to be able to move somewhat or it will stress crack at the mounting points.He always did, and so have I, and never had any problems. ;)
Yes, i'll be running a hood. At least a top, i need to get it built. I want a few louvers in it and I have a guy in OKC that wants to buy my press. I also want to make side panels around the headers, and hopefully a belly pan, and It will need louvered if i do it.
I'll be cutting the rear lip off the grill shell to add on to extend the back side of it to cover the radiator. Think of it as kind of a track nose. Not for everyone, but that's what I want. I think I have figured out my nurf bars also.(side) ;D
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Sammons..
I'm using the same radiator and ran into the same "cross member" situation with the IFS on my 33 5W. Finally extended the hood 5" so I could position the rad down and in front of the Xmember.
Mentioned it before.....the car looks more like a (long) 33 Pontiac coupe now...would love to have a 33 Pontiac coupe!
Ed
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Ed at least it gives me room up front, behind the grill . I want to build a "grill guard" inside it. It might save my radiator someday. ::) Yep, I like a longer nose anyway. The original 107" WB didn't do it for me, that's part of the reason I went with the Master 112".
Old Pontiacs are cool ! 8)
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The reason I asked about the spring mounts is that your radiator shows side mounting tabs.
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I think that's for universal mounting. It's got 2-bottom tabs, 4-side tabs and 1-upper center. I'm going to fasten the shoud to the side tabs, and shell (w/rubber) to the upper center.
I found my radiator under( model A copped 3") for chevy application. Ad said up too 750hp? It will either cool or it won't.
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I believe I have the same radiator, haven't had it out of the in over 2 years. I believe the part number was ca3132 it to was for a Ford.
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The radiator I usually buy is the 32 ford chopped 3 inches, but I think they are mostly the same.
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Did a little more slicing and dicing on the grill shell. I think I got it heading in the right direction anyway. :)
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absolutely nothing stands in your way of building the car..........the marine boast of Clint Eastwood, ADAPT AND OVERCOME, certainly applies.
2 thumbs up !
mike 8)
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Looking realy cool there SAMMONS. The front wheels look like the 8 inch corvette rims i bought for the rear of the vette. Tried the 10 inch but they were just a little tight on the rear.
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Sammons, that grill shell looks great. I used the same/similar radiator in my car. I only used a rubber pad as a mounting cushion. I may have to take a closer look at my set up.......
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Thanks Mike, just wish I weren't so dang slow anymore. I'm like Ghost was the other day, do a little and go take a nap ;)
Vette that's what they are, 8". I would like to come across a pair of 10" for the rear someday. My brother had a set a few years back, but they where too wide for anything we had at the time and he sold them.
Thanks Chopper, glad to see you made it back with out a rescue party! ;D
Next hurdle, filling in around the control arm bolt. Bent these up and got one tacked in. Damn I can't see in low light anymore. That's alright I guess time to quit today anyway.
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It's all fitting up real nice Sammons. Nice fab work ;D
Tom
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I didn't get around to fixing the welder, but I did get my inner grill gaurd painted and bolted up (test fit)
I didn't have enough 1x2 tubing to make the lower mounting point, so I used 1x3. Scrounged around and found some shock eye tubes to make weld in spuds out of. Drilled the mounting holes in the crossmember and the gaurd, capped the ends and welded everything up. Man that thing is solid. :) maybe tomorrow i'll see about mounting the a/c condenser on the back side. Then look at the welder if I ain't wore out.
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Nicely done. with all the craftsmanship around here I have started humming the theme music from the a team.
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Nicely done. with all the craftsmanship around here I have started humming the theme music from the a team.
Or McGyver...... :) Sammons, that looks SOLID!!
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I got my hood patern made up yesterday. Had three buddy's come by last night and we got the first stage of the bending done. I'm really happy with the longer nose. ;D
Next will be tweeking the shape and fit. Then just 4 rows of louvers on top, trimming the sides, fabbing up the side bead.
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Looks awesome, I can't think of a car that I thought the nose was too long.
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nice job. The longer nose is starting to look like my buicks length. ;D
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Thanks fellas, I've always liked the long nose on the Duesenbergs. Would like to build a Duesenberg coupe hot rod, but that'll never happen. :P
Curiosity got the best of me, measured up the side of the hood. Just above the body reveal bead it is 46" to the grill shell plus the extra 2.5" added to the grill shell. If the internet info is correct the hood is 3 3/4" longer than the master.
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Well got the hood fitted up today. I welded #9 wire to the front and back to stiffen up the shape. That allowed me to finally get it to sit correctly to the contours with out clamps. Needed a little more crown so I got the redneck english wheel out (rolling pin) worked great and a lot faster than I thought it would. ;D Cut and notched the back side ends of 3/4" conduit for the body line bead and got it tacked on. By monday I think i'll be ready for the 76 louvers.
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76 louvers in the top, sounds about right, as my 35 standard hood could only take 38 per half = 76 top hood...
louvers are a bear to paint and more so polish.. Depending on your louver dies they may leave a 1/4--3/8" tail at each end of the straight punch line. Nothing I could do to make the panel perfect with those on the ends of the louvers.
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Beautiful day here, sorry you guy's in the northeast. It was 72° today, 76° tomorrow. ;D
Well I went consevative with the louvers (4-rows @ 19 each). Could have easily ran 160 plus on this big hood (straight lines). Sometimes less is more? I went on an angel in stead, shot for the middle between straight and the side angel of the hood. Terrible, I own a press and only put in a few. Good thing, my buddy came by after work to give me a hand. Started getting dark, and I can't see sh** anymore! :'( Right or wrong, I like it!
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Looks good...Outstanding job
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The louvers look great on the hood I think you nailed it.
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Good looking hood!
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I am not much of a louver guy, but that looks really good and I think the angle is a good touch.
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Sammons,
Love that windshield shot. That amount looks just right. Glad you have great weather, it's 9 am Tuesday and we already have a foot of snow. Supposed to snow all day :(
Tom
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Sammons,
it's 9 am Tuesday and we already have a foot of snow. Supposed to snow all day :(
Tom
Tom, we dodged a bullet down here. They were calling for 6-10", we got 2" and the streets are almost clear.
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Sammons , love that redneck English wheel . I will be using that idea in the future. Great job on the grill shell and hood.
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Sammons,
Love that windshield shot. That amount looks just right. Glad you have great weather, it's 9 am Tuesday and we already have a foot of snow. Supposed to snow all day :(
Tom
You have a talent Sammons. The hood is looking great.
Damn TFoch I am really glad I am here in ColoRODo today it about 70 degrees right now, with blue skies.
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looks awesome !!
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Rainy here but we had to go to Tahoe this morning and it was snowing between here and there.
That is just a good amount of louvers. I wanted to do just one side of my pickup hood, a sort of 6 cylinder statement, but My engine leaks so many fluids I wouldn't be able to see out the windshield. ::)
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Thanks for all the nice comments fellas. I know with a bit of a dirt track look, it's bound to rub some of you the wrong way (maybe alot) :o It's nice that no one has jumped my butt about that! ;D
Dugeman make sure if you use the rolling pin method that you roll it out on a clean level surface. A rock or crack in the concrete will mess up your day! Also check your progress often, like I said the crown came up quicker than I had anticipated!
Sixball that is a unique idea (like it). Inliners would get it even if nobody else did. ;) one thing about louvers, you will know real quick if you have any fluid leaks!
It got up to 80° here today, got the lawn chair out and took a nap in the sun ;D
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Well I haven't done much since I got the hood roughed out, I had a bad R.A. flair up. I got back to it Wednesday and finished making the seat rails (to raise the seats up 2" and set back 4" from original vette location). Much better! Made the steering column bottom bolt flange and welded up and the drop cut and rewelded. Column/steering wheel and seat fit is damn comfy now, and one of my friends can slide the seat back and has plenty of room (he's 6' 7" tall). :) Now i'll have to make a new gauge cluster layout as the column is off set to the left (although centered at the seat) :-\
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Yesterday and today I got the steering completed. I reconfigured everything and got down to one double borg joint and one stand off heim. Clearance on the third header tube back was 1/4" from touching, so I cut in a notch. Made the standoff and just welded three nuts inside the frame to mount. Real smooth now even with out the P.S. running. :)
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Now i'll have to make a new gauge cluster layout as the column is off set to the left (although centered at the seat) :-\
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That cluster looks really nice. Can't you just modify it a little to accomodate the steering column?
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fabulous gauge cluster and wood looking panel, very pretty.
I am curious at to what you have done to that 34 master dash, to make the center raised TRI-ANGLE area between the gauge area and the glove box door, so wide and distorted.
It almost appears that you have widened the dash 2-4" in that area. ?
here is a stock 34 master dash panel, note raised center area and the recessed area across top of dash panel is single piece not split into 2 . Tough bit of work, how did you do it.
mike
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Yep chopper I will just have to build another one. The column now goes through the bottom half of where the speedo was. :-\ " You can't always get what you want", but you can come close. ;)
Mike, when I cut the car in half at the front to add the 7.5" (front of cowl) to clear the width of the vette frame (at crossmember) it made the dash 6" short of reaching (side to side. So i cut the master dash i had in half, cut the upper detail out of my standard dash and welded it back together. The center and lower section i just made out of a new piece of tin. I liked the split detail, on the upper off the Standard anyway. I like it anyway. That will now get the extra gauges there, along with the clock in the glovebox door. It will get the Burlwood in it when I'm done.
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holy smokes I completely forgot that you actually widened the body 6" or so, I wasn't expecting that .
TWO THUMBS UP for creativity
mike 8)
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Even with taking time of because of your R.A. You are getting after it.
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MADMIKE ....Did recently sell that dash.....?? I bought one on E-Bay I swear it the same one
This is e-bay photo listing...Dash I received
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I know there has been some 34 master dashes appear over the last month on ebay so went to 1934 Chevrolet dash, none listed then click on the left column for " sold or completed listings " and went looking for one and copied that picture and posted to this thread.
I also noticed that the 3 metal spears for the middle raised area got sold for $360 or less, that I was really surprised at. They are very rare to turn up and are the standard ones installed at the factory. The other really rare set is for the cigar / cigarette lighter and the middle one has a hole in it for wire to go thru.
here is picture of the diecast spears and another set from a butchered dash, guy is asking $250 for
mike 8)
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OK ..got it... I Have one of the little spears Missing ..maybe I might get Lucky enough to get one some where or fab one ...I think the spears give it a little detailed look. I have been working on a Gauge panel for 2 gauges the ad says 3 3/8" diameter. It still amazes me the quality of work and material they did on the dash. I really like the '34 dash compared to the' 33 dash. The glove box balances the dash on the '34,, Thanks
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FATnLOW,
Here is what I have, found them this morning in my toolbox drawer. The nut studs are broke off even with the guide pins, only one of the little ones isn't pitted up bad. Chrome pretty much gone through. If you could use them at all, they are yours. Just give me your address and I'll mail them to you.
Before I had to widen the dash I was going to sand them down, paint and clear them with rattle can chrome and either hot glue them on the backside (once in the holes) or use 3M emblem glue on the bottom and just stick down.
Same offer to the rest of you guy's. FATnLOW has first dibs and I will hold on to them untill I here from him. But please Need Them and not just ebay'em.
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That's a great gift.
The threaded portion should be able to be remade using a very small tap to tap the stud bosses left. Might also be able to silver solder a new stud on. If your uncertain if it can be done easily, take it too a jeweler for their opinion and doing it. Too re-plate these the chrome plater would need something to get his hanging wire onto.
mike 8)
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Sammons...Thank you very much for the Spears...I sent you a PM,,Sent with my address .... Send me the shipping cost and I will reimburse You....Thanks a Bunch
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Your welcome! Glad you might get some use out of them. If you try painting them, you could hot glue from the backside and easily remove them again (without harming the finish) if you later find some really good ones. No need to reimburse for postage, it won't be squat. ;)
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Considering that the 34 master series the spears came stock, they built a lot of those cars ( outsold the std by 5 1/2 to 1 in 34 ) and you have a very good chance of locating a set in a junk yard.
I paid $100 for mine 4 years ago
mike 8)
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Finally got back to the dash and defrost ducts today. Had freinds show up this weekend so I got nothing done. I got the metal filler panel in, slot cut, and dash trimmed back for the vents. Then I discovered (while centering the dash panel) I screwed up! >:(
I widened the dash before I got the cowl back together. It was a little too wide at the bottom right, and a 1/4" too narrow at the right upper. So before I quit I sectioned it out and got it tacked up correct. Tomorrow i'll take the dash panel out and fill in the gap and weld up the side mounting holes and redrill square. I have been calling myself a dumb ass alot these last few weeks.
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Damn hands ain't cooperating much, so it took all week to get the lower dash piece built to house my end A/C vents, Stereo and connect to the Vette console. The Vintage Air ABS plastic enclosures sucked. Same with the control head, so i'll be installing them in the center upper along with the tach/fuel/amp gauges.
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Steve...I like your lower dash extension, When I get around to doing my dash I am planning on using "39 chevy defrost vents depends on all the modification that need to be done, but I think they are thin enough to be workable in a tight space,,, and some kind of dash extension and /or console to house A/C vents...I really didn't want any A/C vent coming out of the Dash,,, Again you do nice work, and have good ideas ...enjoyed the photos
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Sammons, that lower dash looks great and flows really nice into the console. I like the guages and controls in the center of the dash. That is going to look sweet!!
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Sammons, Where did you pick up the defrost vents from? They look very thin in width as I'm looking for something to fit up thru the dash on my 32.
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Thanks guys. If I had known I would have to fab up Everthing on this car,( at this stage in my life). I would have just figured out a way to get my '57 back, and call it a day :-\
62131,
Me and my buddy were discussing that last week. They are 1/2"wide (not counting flared out lip on the side) and 12" long with a nice 20°angle.The vents are abs and have a Penstar burnt into them along with some #'s that don't come up on the crash book. He thought they were out of our race car but '70 B bodys have a little louvered square vent that pops in from the top. I have scuttled a few NewYorkers but don't recall pulling the dashes out. They are not Jeep CJ's but I did scrap out some '77 postal dispatch Jeeps.
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All that great metal work reminds me of a 33 project I saw online years ago....saved some picture as a FYI only.
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That's cool Ed! Got that C1 vette thing going on. That would have looked good with the old '57 waffel style upholstery! :) I thought about doing a C2 dash similar to that (with the two big curved padded uppers and the gauge cluster) but it wouldn't look right at all.
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That's cool Ed! Got that C1 vette thing going on. That would have looked good with the old '57 waffel style upholstery! :) I thought about doing a C2 dash similar to that (with the two big curved padded uppers and the gauge cluster) but it wouldn't look right at all.
Sure looks like the car has some structural support to it....he also did the doors suicide style.
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Sammons,
The dash looks great. Excellent craftsmanship. I like the way you laid it out.
Tom
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Fun, fun (not). I got the RH door aligned, reshaped and stripped. Bottom made and the first of the structure tubes in. Had to set up the PW unit and glass channel so I could figure out where to put the crash bar. Now i'll weld that in tomorrow and figure out the inner panel that will allow access to R&R regulator. Seems like never ending fab work. :-\
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Looks great....what did you paint the inside (doors) with?
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Ed after I preped it then sprayed it with Plastikoat gloss black engine enamel. Sprayed it heavy around the edges so it would run into the seams. It will all get Total Coat under coating and more insulation when i'm done. Just making sure it will all be covered. ;)
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I'm not familiar Total Coat... I bought an under coating set (gun and inner panel sprayers) many years ago and used the RusFre...it was tough to get it flowing from the gallon jugs. The hard rubberized was the worst...the tacky inner panel stuff was a bit easier to spray.
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Sammons...looks good did you use POR 15 on the inside of the doors?,,, Can't wait to get that far on my project.. Way too cold to work here Snow and ice and a cold wind blowing
**** just seen your post on what you used on the inside of the door ****
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Ed I used to use the 3m rubberized under coat, big aerosol can, expensive. I've been using Total Coat since 2006, really like it.
FATnLOW, quite a turn around since two weeks ago. Guess we shouldn't complain too much, we could be up N.E., buurrrrr! I'm just damn glad I put infloor heat in the garage when I built my house, I keep it at 75° out there. ;D I can't stand the cold.
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Sammons, that door looks real nice. One down, one to go?
I was talking to my son about the weather yesterday. We are in agreement, it's still cold out, but it feels like springtime cold, not winter cold. And with it staying daylight longer....well, spring is just around the corner.
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Sammons your door is looking great, I've got to that stage on my doors and have quit and moved on to other projects that I can do in just a few hours as it's to cold to stay in the garage to long.
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Sammons you're busting through it pretty good. Nice
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Thanks guys, but chopper i'm probably about a quarter of the way done with this door. :-\ Still have more tubing to go, cutting glass template to mount glass channels and fab up an inner panel, inner door handel latch and rods and straighten the outside yet. Damn I got a lot left.
As 62131 said, a lot of time is needed to get this right. Hopefully the second one will go much faster, I won't have to think (just copy)
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Yikes!! I don't have much more metal than that in my doors, maybe I need to take another look at mine.
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Nah chopper, your probably just fine. I'm just overkill, too many years in collision work. I always look at them and say to myself" if it had a bar there it wouldn't have came in there like that" . Just overkill. ;D
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Yikes!! I don't have much more metal than that in my doors, maybe I need to take another look at mine.
It might be over kill but safety is a big concern for everyone we don't want to anybody hurt.
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Yup! Maybe one wide horizontal bar across the door ::) I'll probably be happier.
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Chopper, if you can find some of this it will help alot. This stuff came out of a livestock trailer, they ran this inside the side walls(to stiffen up) and where the window opening was. Due to our skinny doors, there is not alot of room to clear door glass/regulators. If I had a roadster, I would run regular roll bar tubing in it (no glass to dodge).
It's made from 1/16" stamped steel, 3 3/4" wide, 1/2" thick. Production cars started puting them in the late '70s, in either a similar or tube crash bar. I placed mine at rib height. (I've repaired cars that broke arms and ribs when the center of the door was pushed in.)
If I can get another run of this stuff against the outside I will. Then some cross bars toward the door panel side. I'm not building a light weight drag car, so a few extra lbs.gives me piece of mind.
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Thanks, Sammons, that looks like good stuff for the job. I'll keep an eye out for something like that.
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Slowly plug'n along on the door yet. I got the glass channels and regulator mounted. I did have room to put a second crash bar in just below the first, and stitch welded them together, but on trial with the glass template the reg slightly rubbed on the last rib on the lower crash bar, so I notched it. I bent up another piece of 1/2" conduit under the inside the lower window opening.
Then on to bending up the upper window inner (where the wood reinforcement went). I had to make it in three pieces as my metal break will only break up to 38". The lower part i bent a second 90°for the wisker strip to mount . Then i made and welded two more small corner extentions so that the bottom was straight across. I may weld a smooth channel piece across it so that the door panel will slip into it (like the cheap '67-72 Chevy p.u.door panels did.)
Here are some pics, and of course inspector #3 overseeing.
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I think I had better wait on welding it in until I get my garnish mldgs in, just to make sure they fit. :-\
And a few more....
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Did your work meet Inspector #3's high standards?
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Haha, he seemed to be pleased ;D or he was really anxious to go pee ;)
Was cleaning up the garage this morning, opened up the doors to blow all the grinding dust out of the cab and he jumped in behind the wheel. I guess he was checking out seat placement. Good thing I didn't chop the top, he would have a head clearance issue!
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That looks great, you're a regular Jedi Master!! ;D
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Sammons the doors are looking great, oh you might want to let inspector #3 out to pee :D
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That's a good looking dog, oh and the car don't look so bad, you are moving along with it.
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Thanks, pic of me and inspector #3, 11yrs ago before we both got old and grey. :-\
Finally got the door latch (outside) hooked up and done. Tight fit, I had to build this lever to clear the door glass channel. Works real good, but I did have to put a return spring on.
I'm about to say to hell with it and pull the body off, do the chassis and get it running. I wanted to do all the body mods on the chassis so it wouldn't move on me. I think the cage took care of that, everything is damn solid. Just found out my small town is having a car show on Memorial weekend. It would be nice to at least have it running by then.
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Your doors are looking top notch. I would also like to get a ride in mine this summer if possible.
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I'm looking at next spring to have my 32 on the street :)
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Sammons, that door looks SOLID!
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62131 I just might have our 32 on the road by next fall if i am lucky number one thing i am looking for are new rear fenders if you happen to spot a pair please give me a call 1 613 548 4704 thanks wayner
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vette59jdwl ..If by new you mean repro, Bowtie Reproductions still list them for a 32..I'm sure there not cheap..
Click here to see them (http://www.bowtiereproductions.com/sheetMetal.html)
Moose
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those would have been part of the parts left overs from the repo 32 chev roadster that EXPERI- METAL did in the 80's.
Steel repo fenders QUALITY, DON'T ASK HOW MUCH, just say I will take a pair of those and I think the front gravel shield and the gas tank cover in rear ????
mike
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I bought the reproduction rear fenders and the needed very little work. I would have been $ ahead if I had gotten the front gravel shield and gas tank cover too.
I would recommend them.
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Still haven't gotten back to working on the coupe yet, but getting real close on some of the shop modifications. I think we will get the metal sheeting on the upstairs tomorrow. It'll be nice to start getting all the extra parts stored up there and out of my way. ;D
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Sammons that does not look like a garage that looks like a Party House ,Where are you putting the beer fridge up stairs or down vette59jdwl
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Vette, my buddy said he was putting in a mini bar ( counter top, little sink and mini freezer/fridge under) for beer, ice and set-ups, and yes it will be down stairs in the clean room. (Upstairs may have been dangerous) Sent a pic too my brother, he seen the 12" I-beam floor joists, and asked if we were gonna have fat dancing girls up there. :o
At least we got the tin hung today. Now to build another sliding door upstairs and one door on the south end to access the heater.
I am planning to get the coupe back down there this week. ( I think I've said that before. ;)
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I'm jealous.............
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Sammons if you were any closer i would come down and give you a hand sure looks like a great place to work on a street rod have a reception or even have a great independence day party on the fourth of July yeeepie vette59jdwl
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looks to nice to mess up with some ole car taken all apart ;)
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Chopper me too! Sure glad I get to stay and enjoy some of the upgrades.
Vette, the ol shop has hosted many a party through the years. Bands, dances and parties. Hopefully more to come! Tom keeps asking me how would my dad feel about the Improvements. I told him he would have loved it, just as long as we filled it back up with hotrods and customs again!
62131, i'll darn sure have to blow off the dust on all the parts before we re-store them up there. I won't be working on that side of the shop, so I don't have to worry about getting his side dirty. ;D I'll just have a little more room from moving parts/materials over.
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Well it's been over two months since I have touched the coupe. I've been working on the shop, I got the wiring finished in the storage/clean room/compressor room and bath. Finished the plumbing stub out, the electrition started the conduit for the rest of the shop, and my buddy started the sheet rock. He's got a company coming down monday to float the floor back up to grade, (15x20 in the S.E. corner, sink hole) so I got the corner all cleaned out and clear sunday. I still don't have room for the coupe right now, and can tell it's not going to happen this summer. So......
Slept all yesterday, (I was wore out) and decided i'll just have to do it at the house. Stepped out there this morning, looked it over, got a little overwelmed. :o Trying to figure out where to begin again, kinda like starting all over again. Gonna sit down and make a list of what still needs to be ordered to get started on the chassis. With no tie downs in my garage floor, I had better pull the frt springs while I still have the motor/body on. Rebuild the control arms etc then pull it apart to do the rest........I think! ???
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YeeeHaww, felt good this afternoon and pulled down the suspension. You gotta love the older Chevrolet engineers, simple and stout! This old vette stub is 38 yrs old and came right apart. Spent 30mins pulling radiator, a/c condenser, inner grill gaurd, and just under 2hrs on the suspension tear down. Right side spring came right out but got a little light in the front for the left. So luckily I have a built in tire rack on front and it was just enough weight to get the left safely out. Damn good day for me, feels good to get back on the coupe! ;D
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Glad to see you were able to get back on the coupe...Been hot here ..Just working on mine 4-5 hours a day
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FATnLOW, did you get any of that heat relief we had the past week and a half? Untill yesterday it was highs in the 70's and low in the upper 50's.
Been cleaning the frt suspension components and repainting. I ran out of muratic acid yesterday on my frt brake dust shields, so I tried(for 20mins) cleaning the rust off with a power wire brush and not getting much done. I had my buddy pick some up this morning for me, just 15 mins to clean both (inside and out). Should have just waited yesterday. I wouldn't recommend this route to most people, it's quick but extreamly hazardous to your health and well-being if handeled improperly!! !!!!!
Here is what I have done so far. Time for a beer and a nice rest down stairs where it's really cold! ;D
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sammons your parts are looking great, how did you apply the muriatic acid and how long did you let them soak. I'm thinking about doing my hood panels that way.
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62131, I put a couple inches in a plastic Folgers coffee can and drop all my nuts and bolts in, then use a paint strainer to pour into another smaller container to retrieve. On the larger parts I just use a paint brush to coat and Carefully use an old tooth brush. Just takes 5-10 mins per soak. On body panels I put it in a weed sprayer and just respray every 10 mins and it,( for the most part) just runs off. Acationaly on really bad panels I use a scotch brite (which melts away) or 0-steel wool to scrub with. Then I just mix up some baking soda and water with a
scotch brite to neutralize, then hose of with water. Dry quick, flash rust comes fast! Stay up wind for sure and don't breeth! It will lock you up.lol
Here is what i'm currently using. Pool PH balance/ concrete etcher, under $4.00 per gal.
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62131, I put a couple inches in a plastic Folgers coffee can and drop all my nuts and bolts in, then use a paint strainer to pour into another smaller container to retrieve. On the larger parts I just use a paint brush to coat and Carefully use an old tooth brush. Just takes 5-10 mins per soak. On body panels I put it in a weed sprayer and just respray every 10 mins and it,( for the most part) just runs off. Acationaly on really bad panels I use a scotch brite (which melts away) or 0-steel wool to scrub with. Then I just mix up some baking soda and water with a
scotch brite to neutralize, then hose of with water. Dry quick, flash rust comes fast! Stay up wind for sure and don't breeth! It will lock you up.lol
Here is what i'm currently using. Pool PH balance/ concrete etcher, under $4.00 per gal.
I take it your using it straight out of the container, I was going to dilute it some before use.
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Yep, I use it straight. I started out using the original "the works" toilet bowl cleaner years ago when it came out. I thought it did a good job on our hard water stains. One day I did my shower stall and it took the chrome plating on the water spicket down to the nickel, and the drain (pop up) stud was steel and looked like new. They have diluted it since (it's slow), so I found out it was muratic based. Been using that ever since, I think the pool stuff is around 31%. Just make sure if you dilute the acid to pour the acid in the water and not the other way around! (Or you will have a really bad day!)
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FATnLOW, did you get any of that heat relief we had the past week and a half? Untill yesterday it was highs in the 70's and low in the upper 50's.
Sammons.. I really enjoyed that cool spell we had along with the rain ....was raining here Monday thru Wednesday we got 8 inches of rain had but now it is hotter than heck.. about 105-110 with the heat index
Been going out early in the morning and working until about noon...Going to block the roof one more time then shoot some primer, then on to the frame gotta get it sand blasted....
Gonna try your parts cleaning method on some parts
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It works, just be darn carefull with the stuff. "Just because i'm a dumb ass, don't try this stuff at home"(disclaimer) ;D I can't put on rubber gloves (my twisted fingers won't fit), but I strongly recommend them!
All we got was just under 3/4". We were supposed to get a bit more. Sure enjoyed having the a/c off and windows open though. ;)
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I'm slowly gaining on the front end. My wrists have been giving me fits, so it's really slowing me down, but progress anyway. This is why we call him the Inspector, he says i'm good to proceed. ;D The front rotors were thinner on the backside so.... had to order new Delco rotors, drilling out the hub to get the rotor off was a pain in the a$$! I didn't use to mind, now I do. :-\ Now I have to go dig up a dial indicator to check runout, the manual says .005 max.
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Sammons that car is such a nice and clean build. I bet it wil drive like a cadilac with that suspension.
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I second "The Inspector's" approval, nice work.
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Thanks guys, I appreciate the kind words. :) I just wish I could maintain the clean detail it would have gotten 5 yrs ago, I keep dropping and scratching everything assembling now. :-\ Oh well, gonna drive the wheels off it anyway!
Ghost my uncle always said Vettes road like a lumber wagon, but the only one I remember him driving was when he drove a '64 home dad had bought with the suspension wore out. I aways liked the way the C3's road, and with the wheel base streatched from 98" to 112", I hope it will be a little smoother. I bet with the 4 piston calipers and 11 7/8" rotors (and 1000lbs lighter) it should really shut down good.
Well I got the rotor runout dialed in at .0046 and .0049. It's really starting to get hot, so I might be about done for the day.
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That really looks good, Sammons, and it didn't take you long to do that front end compared to the pictures from just a couple weeks ago.
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Steve... Looking good.... I know what you mean about the hot weather...been kickin my A$$,, 110 degrees
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Thanks Chopper. But to me, feels like I took an easy two day cruise and turned it into a three week endurance challenge. Lol :-\
FATnLOW the other day it was 101 by noon and still 99 at 9:00pm. I don't know how hot it got, I went downstairs and took a nap. ;D I use to not mind the heat, shop was always around 115 july-august. Just can't take it that hot anymore. (Probably cause I don't have too anymore)
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Thanks Chopper. But to me, feels like I took an easy two day cruise and turned it into a three week endurance challenge. Lol :-\
Slow and steady, Sammons. If that's what gets it done, then that's what gets it done. What are we rushing for, anyway? :)
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I looked all over for a set of accessory drive brackets/pulleys for non-holed heads, geezthe set ups got expensive! :o Never did find what I wanted anyway. Hot Rod motors either don't last too long or your changing stuff around, so I wanted to build a set that (regardless of heads/intake etc) would work for all. Took me all week, bout kicked my butt, but got'em finally. ;D
Made the P.S.first, then the alt, moved on to a/c.......it would not fit on the right side. Scraped the alt brkts and moved a/c compressor over to the left side where it cleared the down tube fine. Fabed new brkts for alt on the right side. Now everything is balanced between the front down tubes. (The engine has a 2" right offset).
Now I have to clean up the garage, floor is just black from all the welding and grinding.
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Chopper, in a hurry because my hands are getting worse man. I use to just cruise through all this. ;)
Here are a few better pics of clearance.
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Looks good. ....a lot of good work to get what you wanted...
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that's some nice work, Sammons, looks sturdy!
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Nice fab work! Lookin' good ;D
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You never think about it when you start a build but it usually turns out that most of your time is spent the small details. You did some great engineering work there...Looks good.
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actually street and performance in MENA ar make billet aluminum brackets to mount the alt DS and down low using the original motor mount holes in front and same for the air comp on PS down low.
Fat jack ultra cars and components in calif made a real nice alt/air unit back in mid 90's that sits both units over both the valve covers, using a one piece bracket.
Yours works at 80-90% less cost than the bought stuff would cost.
mike
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Nice fabrication skills there sammons. Sometimes it just feels better to build the right parts, and it's better than buying what might work.
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Thanks fellas, Dad always told me if you build what you need, you get what you want. Keep it simple and stout. Mike I seen that RH lower a/c mount, I liked it untill I found out you have to remove the mechanical fuel pump. Me and electrical gizmos don't get along. The single plate dual mount looked to me to be a pain to get around to other things and maybe a bit too high (my enigine sits higher than most).
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Well found another bent part on the front end, tie rod sleeve. So I got a new one coming from Jegs. Jumped back on the rear bumper today, built the brackets and got the first go-round lined up and fit/welded. It bolts to the rear crossmember (5 bolts on each side) and the bumper arms are welded and bolt onto bracket(2 each side) . I used 1/8" plate and will double it with another layer later. I used the outside two factory weld in nuts on the crossmember and self tap the rest till I get the frame back out, then i'll drill the holes out bigger and weld in nuts. This way I can run a bumper or unbolt it, also gives me a place to mount a receiver hitch if I want later.
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I like the look of that bumper, it's sleek and if it was painted the same color as the car it would blend right in. I think you just gave me an idea for my '32. Any suggestions for my front bumper? ;D
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Thanks Chopper, I'm just running a spreader bar on my front. I'm going to paint it black, same as car, (toying with silver if I run nurf bars on the side). I would like somthing more, with maybe up right nerfs later. Here may give you an idea of something
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the fab is killer , thing is looking really mean ! keep it up ! 28
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Thanks '28. I hope it is when done. ;D
Been a crazy two weeks, my brother and his wife (and Dog) drove out from the west coast. He started giving me a hand on the coupe ( oh yah). That didn't last long, all his freinds came by to visit.
I got a cyst on my back that was getting pink and sore so went to Doc, got some antibiotics and carried on. We went to a freinds daughters wedding, then they were headed to Branson to see mom. (She's been in and out of the hospital alot lately). I checked with Doc, he said go see mom, so the Inspector and I hitched a ride to Mo. Mom ended up in the hospital (she was a couple qts of oil low),while we were on our way, she got out monday all is good now.
By tuesday night my back was swollen and red, went to urgent care unit in Branson where they cut, squeezed, flushed and managed to pack 1/4" x 23' of gause strip in the hole. That was really fun! Headed home wednesday morn, brother headed home thurs. Went back to clinic to find out infection was not responding to antibiotics. Got unpacked squeezed, repacked thurday/friday. New antibiotics now working, yippee! No more packing today! Hopefully by Monday's visit, i'll be back to the coupe. Wheew! ::)
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DON'T like to hear about going to Drs. I hope everything turns out ok for you and your Mom....
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Sammons hope all turns out well for you and your Mom :)
Tom
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Chopper, in a hurry because my hands are getting worse man. I use to just cruise through all this. ;)
Here are a few better pics of clearance.
Sammons
I also used C3 engine parts in my 33, have a 79 Vette engine with 91 Vette upper fuel injection. Since the C3 has those multi groove pulleys took advantage of it and using double V belt. Figure with 2 belts doing the same thing I can run them with little less tension..maybe helping the mounting brackets???
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Sammons you wore me out just reading your post and trying to keep up, hope everything works out for your mother and you.
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Thanks fellas, i'm definitely on the mend. Mom called this morning, shes still doing good. Looks like she's getting a lot of tests done this week. My buddy Tom came over last night and changed my bandage out for me and took a pic of my back for me, I hadn't seen it since they cut holes in Branson. Looks like an alien monkey bite.lol :o But it's still draining with out all that damned packing in there, and definitely getting smallerin diameter( from 10.5cm to 3cm ). However, it itches like the devil. I told Tom last night he might have to poke his finger in there and give it a few twists, he declined.
I did see some cool cars around Springfield and a really cool 30-31 ford fenderless coupe in Branson. Couldn't get to my phone quick enough to get any pics.
Here are a couple of pics of my back seat trip, it did get pretty tight from time to time with these two big boys. (Duke aka "the inspector" and brothers dog Jas)
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Hey brother you better get your self healed up cuz I just might have to make the trip to Salinas next year if the Buick travels the way I hope it will. Looks like a cozy trip you had.
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Hey Sammons, glad your Mom's doing better. I feel your pain. I had a cyst on my side a couple years ago that had to be cut, not a fun thing at all. feel better my friend.
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Finally back to work. Got my brake pedal assy painted and rebuilt (bushings). Firewall all sealed up on the inside (fiberglass blend), and the rubberized under coat with black engine enamel top coat (so adhisive will stick down insulation). Give me a chance to stamp my body number on 4 locations on cage and elsewhere. One easy to get too and three not so obvious, all will be behind interior panels etc. I've had to prove a car was mine before, so this is a must to me ( and several more to go).
I think I will wait to make a hole for the cowl vent drain untill I get the Vintage Air unit hung. That way maybe I can "T" the two drains together with just one hole. Maybe tomorrow i'll get the pedal assy back in and the cowl vent inner painted and reinstalled.
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Sammons;;; I remember a sercuit judge a female that had her 25 foot boat trailer stolen.They got to the border they had some other sort of license plate on the trailer and had stamped serial numbers into the frame that matched their ownership.She could not prove it was hers and so there it went south. I have two sets of punches letters and numbers and i stamp all my stuff with the numbers on the corresponding ownerships. some place on the frame and some place else not so obvious.something to think about. I have been pulled over in a routine check pulling our power boat.The ownership and registration is under the dash attached to the back of the steering wheel. I told the officer in question where it was and asked him if he had a scanner. He said yes. and i asked him if he could scan the numbers that i had in the frame of the trailer and he said yes at which time he asked me for my drivers license and proof of insurance when i did this he said have a good day and i was on my way vette59jdwl
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Vette, years back Kansas vehicles(pre 50's) were usually titled under the engine numbers(some still are). If you did a motor change you had to have the bill of sale for the replacement engine and have it notorized and apply for a new title number with that engine number on it.(a real pain) l'm guessing by the 60's you had a choise upon inspection to either title it under motor or body. I always went with body number so enigine change was easy (paper work wise).
I sold a 40 chevy pu (w/283 in it), had it titled under body. I remember dad having a conversation with a fellow (in the 70's) and he told of loosing one because he couldn't prove #'s due to the body # plate being removed. I sold it to an ol boy on payments so he could be working on it. I just gave him a zerox copy of title along with a contract untill he paid me in full. He skipped on me, five months later a friend spotted it broke down on a country road 40 miles away. I called the Co Sheriff of that county of it's location. Dispatch called me back and said that the body tag had been removed. I informed them where I had stamped the body #'s (2 locations) they relayed back. If I brought title and contract down I could have it back. I did, the officer said if I had not stamped that truck it would have been impounded and sold. Later when I got back I found the body plated behind the seat in a bunch of trash. Never took payments again! ;D
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Now that the heat, a/c unit is securely mounted I'm finding out what doesn't fit. The original planned location for the stereo now doesn't have enough depth, the fuse box location also. I wanted it to the right side of the console with a cover for easy access.(fuse box) So i'll have to build a box to space the stereo out and on an angle. Built that, but have tosink it yet. I like the angle, just not sure of the look yet, gonna need some round corners before i'm happy. The glove box is only going to be 4" deep now also. Still in thinking on new fuse box location. It will all have to wait as I have other things to do this weekend.
Here's what I got so far.
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Steve.. At least your making progress....I haven't done any thing in 5 weeks due to a cold that I got and turned into a sinus infection and bronchitis..now fighting off a cough....after a lot of meds and Z-Pac.. feeling a lot better.
Like your dash extension...and as for the glove box I figure mine will be approx. 3 inches deep..it will house A/C controls and Electronics ports and what ever else I want to hide. any way that's the plan
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Sammons I was watching a you tube scit and Jay Leno was showing his 32 chevy the only thing that was 32 chevy was a piece of the original frame the body was a 32 ford and had an LS 7 motor with a 6 speed.but it was listed as a 32 chevy go figure vette59jdwl
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FATnLOW glad your feeling better, those summer colds can kick your butt. My problem is I think to far ahead and when I get to that next step...plans change. Hope your plans are better than mine! ;)
Vette, I guess i'm all Chevy. Just 20% Corvette. ;D Opps, I guess that's not right. The roof insert was a Musss, can't say it (brand starts with a F). :o
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Had other plans.lol I woke up with fuzzy vision, so driving this morning was out. So, back to the console. Finished up the stereo box, hammered out rounder corners and welded it in. Then onto the console lid where I needed to change out the power window switch holes. The orig GM whole was smaller and square, new switch was larger and more rectangular.
I first cut the switch pockets from the new cheap looking abs plastic holders and filed them down to minimum. Then held them over the gm holes to mark and cut out. Once fit I put masking tape on the front side of the holes so the cold weld epoxy wouldn't squirt out. Then put the epoxy into the hole and pressed down into with the new pockets. Then put more all around the inner base. Let it dry sanded and laid down the vinyl wrap cover and trimmed.
Heres a couple pics
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Looks good ..I like what you have done on the console
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Sammons,
Nice work! Looks like you're going to have a lot of leg room in that coupe.
Tom
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Thanks guys. Fatnlow I thought the stereo bump was going to look like a big red monkey butt. :-\ I think keeping it as shallow a possible might help a bit. It will have to do for now. I'll be getting a black face stereo later, the silver one is just my old mock up unit.
Tom it's actually got alot. I can slide the seat all the way forward and just touch my feet to the firewall.
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Sammons I like the console looks great. what seats did you use to get so much room for the console?
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62131, I used the Vette floor pan, seats and console. That's why I had to widen the front of the body (at firewall) 7.5", and that allowed use of the Vette frt crossmember.
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I just went back and read the first of your build thread,
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62131, I used the Vette floor pan, seats and console. That's why I had to widen the front of the body (at firewall) 7.5", and that allowed use of the Vette frt crossmember.
I was looking at your dash in place pictures and thought, whats going on here?????
That dash is really wider, cut right in the middle and a piece added.............huuuuum.
oh ya , I remember he cut the whole car down the middle and made it wider .
Very trick.........mike lynch 8)
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sammons that car ought to be real cozy for those long rides with all that leg room and creature comforts.
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Now that the heat, a/c unit is securely mounted I'm finding out what doesn't fit. The original planned location for the stereo now doesn't have enough depth, the fuse box location also. I wanted it to the right side of the console with a cover for easy access.(fuse box) So i'll have to build a box to space the stereo out and on an angle. Built that, but have tosink it yet. I like the angle, just not sure of the look yet, gonna need some round corners before i'm happy. The glove box is only going to be 4" deep now also. Still in thinking on new fuse box location. It will all have to wait as I have other things to do this weekend.
Steve decided to go with swing pedal and booster on the firewall,,,thought it would be easier,,got it all installed now have to contend with finding another location for my fuse panel as the swing pedal altered my planed location for the fuse panel ,basically not enough room.....maybe a console off the center of the firewall on the trans hump......yet again might end up under the seat or on the drivers kick panel,,,,wherever I located it has to be easy accessible.......
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on my 1935 stdard 3 w coupe I put the fuse panel under the seat on passenger side where the stock battery would be. I bought a deep lasanga dish backing rectangle thing in cooking dept and mounted the ron francis panel in it. Battery got relocated to the pass side trunk in a marine box.
Yup , also ran 34 master dash with glove box, installed air unit and 4" deep is all that's there for glove box.
I made a wood box 10 x 10 and covered it with top insert upholstery, mounted the radio cd player into it along with a remote for the 10 disc cd changer in trunk, right in front of seat in middle at max distance seat can travel. I put it there because I found that a custom made consul running from dash did not give me enough foot room.
you can run all the wires down the kick panels and thru floor into the lasagna tray. make sure you use o-ring sheet metal grommets for wires to run thru.
mike 8)
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Quote FATnLOW
Steve decided to go with swing pedal and booster on the firewall,,,thought it would be easier,,got it all installed now have to contend with finding another location for my fuse panel as the swing pedal altered my planed location for the fuse panel ,basically not enough room.....maybe a console off the center of the firewall on the trans hump......yet again might end up under the seat or on the drivers kick panel,,,,wherever I located it has to be easy accessible.......
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Ed, thanks alot. Haha, now I remember I have to figure that out. Been busy with other things.
My fuse box (Speedway) won't fit in my kick panel, it's to thick (sticks out 3/4"past). I just looked again ::), I don't have much room under dash on the pass side once the glove box goes in and the 2-a/c lines and 2-heater hoses ( and they all will go through the ledge, bottom portion of the silver insulation). If the frt wires on the harness are long enough I can mount mine behind the console. I have to fab that up anyway because I added 10" to the length of the Vette floorpan. I just don't want to splice the wire harness for length. I guess I should lay it out and see?
Your choices sound good, yep they have to be easy access these days. I'm not going to contort around on my head/back anymore to change a damned fuse! ;D
Mike, wish I could but..........ain't no room under my seat!
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Oh ya, you done seriously messed with stock interior plan. My seat is moved back so that rear package shelf is only 5" wide, think its 8 " farther back than stock.
Re the air con.........after installing a vintage air system but never charging it, I found with the vent open and the rear window rolled down, there was no need for air and it gets 80--90 here thru summer with tons of humidity. I just use the air con system heater motor and hoses for the fall nights when it might get chilly.
Secret is the firewall is sealed with that aluminum backed insulation , sprayed with 777 glue. The same material is also on the floor along with the nascar bubble center double aluminum sided stuff on top, sealed the floor. It works , but you guys deep down south get some killer heat and humidity and it may not be enough.
mike 8)
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Yep Mike, all changed from original configuration. ;) it didn't start out that way, but certainly ended up. I had no idea how much would change from when I got the shell. Would I do it again? Hell no, way too much work!
Originally my late Uncle (during build options) had talked me out of a/c. He said that my '57 did't really need a/c. I had insulated the crap out of it, and even with it being black, it wasn't bad. But it got air flow from above the headlamps, and with the vent windows cracked it stayed decent. Many trips across the Mojave to Calif in it.
But after loosing the option of a roll down rear window (due to rear suspension and other mods) and removal of the big vent windows, gonna need it now. When it gets well over 100° for at least 2months during summer here.(and me turning into a wuss)
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If you can find a 1934 Chevrolet master coupe that had a rumble seat and if it still has the mechanism will fit right into where stock window is. When fully rolled down still 2" of glass above the metal body line and drops down below on inside by 4" .
removing the vent windows, not a good idea, makes chev look like a 32--34 ford 3 w . Amazing amount of air they direct into inside when you want them wide open. Problem is 500 mile trip with them wide open, you feel like you have been bitch slapped in the face due to the wind buffeting. I just roll down sides, open cowl vent and roll down rear window to cool off.
went to 1st street rod nats in Peoria 1970, Memphis in 71, Detroit 72, Tulsa 73, st paul 74 and back to Memphis in 75 last NSRA nats I went to. Lots of miles of fully open vents, because the firewall and floor were not sealed like they later became .
mike 8)
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Mike I had kept the channels and mech out of my 34 master coupe. When it was no longer an option, I give it to the guy that bought it from me. My horizontal crossbar on the cage is right below the window. That's where my soulder harness mounts go. I always loved my early C3vettes that had the back window pop out. I liked the quiet ventilation it provided (and the sound of the exhaust back there ;D)
My old '23 T bucket rpu was at the Tulsa nat's in '73 (four years previous to my ownership.
Yep, being wind blown after a trip got old. I quit riding road bikes years ago for that very reason (and idiots trying to run me off the road), and running my old Willys Jeeps over 55mph. :-\
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yup, roll down rear window doesn't appear to be an option any longer without serious mods.
question, U said that's where my shoulder harness mounts goes.
Are we talking full on race car system and if so, what are you going to be running in that car. ???????
mike 8)
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Yep Mike 5-point harness'. I incorporated the 8-point saftey cage into the body structure, all hidden behind interior. I really like sliding the local dirt roads and may run at the local drag strip sometime. I have two motors, a '65 high reving little 301 hotdog for local fun and a '70 mildly warmed over 350 for road trips (dependable/ fuel mileage). ;D
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Finally back at it, garage is a mess. After I got the shoulder harness brackets welded on last week, (and some unplanned down time) I got all the rear panels fitted, welded, quick skim of filler, a bit of sanding and finally some primer tonight. I did manage to get the right rear door jam also. A paint stick with sand paper wrapped around it, is my new best friend. The center under panel unscrews to take off to get to 3rd brake light wires and more insulation later.
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Sammons....Don't you just love it when you make some progress...I try to plan what I need to get done when I go out to the shop ...and actually accomplish some thing before coming back to the house. Working on a console/drink holder on the floor between the seats. Priced swing out cup holders and decided beer wouldn't tasted any better in those holders :o
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Yep, feels good for a change. Usually have a plan every night, then i wake up and change happens. lol ;D I don't know what I'm doing for a drink holder yet. Post some pic when you get yours figured out.
Couldn't find the little bit of lacqure primer I thought I had, so i had to mix up that darn stinking two part stuff. Now my house stinks.(didn't get the door shut all the way) :-\
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Nice work Sammons. Those brackets look like they'll do the trick. Keep at it!
Tom
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Tom Its almost time for another weekend cruise vette59jdwl Its 50 degrees on the east end of Lake Ontario
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Vette, I think we have our weather swaped around. We had 8" last sunday, and it's 20° here right now. The Sheriff (next county down) posted this computer model for the upcoming snow storm. :o Hope it's wrong! Enjoy yours!
I'm at the end of the black arrow on the edge of the 25.7"
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That's the only reason I haven't started any work on mine, it's supposed to be 60° on Christmas and I want to go for one more ride :D Sorry for the bad weather Sammons but at least your getting stuff done. Hope the inspector approves!
Tom
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Sammons the car is looking great, I like paint sticks also for sanding. The weather around here is weird. We just cleaned up 10 inches of snow from last tuesday, and expecting another snow storm next tuesday. I took the 1984 k5 I just bought to the field near my house and had some fun testing the 4 wheel on it. Never got stuck. Best $$$$$$ I ever spent.
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Ghost28..One tough vehicle when equipped with the right Goodyear knobby tires not to big just enough to get you and the vehicle out of trouble and not bunch up the tires with mud. I try to get the tallest skinniest tire that i can find.That and two Jack-Alls are your best friends. Check the Milliteria vehicles in your area check see what tire combination they are using on their four by fours.You can't go wrong vette59jdwl PS still no snow
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Thanks guys, it's a slow road these days. Tom the inspector had to take a leave of absense, his knee was on the mend then he fell and popped his hip. His days may be numbered. :-\
I wish you all a Merry Christmas and be safe on your holiday travels! :)
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Been dealing with the loss of a couple friends and an aunt last several weeks. All in a two week span, so not much time to work lately.
Started drilling out the bodyside hinge screws. Made a bit and handle for my air hammer and got out several. The rest i'm having to drill and chase(retap) the threads.(couldn't move my wrist for two days after).
The Filling Station has the correct small head screws, so I thought I would get some other needed things, but.......
Ok fellas, I know there are a few on here that have 33-35 stds. What do you call the rubber cusion(bumper) on the rear two body side jamb???? I can't seem to find them in The Filling Station, Steel Rubber or I & I catalogs. Any help?
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Steve...Had that same problem and was not able to locate then thru Filling station even sent photos to them but ran into a dead end...good thing I did not remove them from the body
Sorry for your loss...we also had a loss in the family..my wife's sister passed on Dec. 4..but life still goes on
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Ed, sorry to hear of your sister in-law. I got news saturday night that my machinist buddy John had a mild stroke and that he is bad enough they will be putting him in the nursing home. He won't last if he is stuck in there. :-[
Dang, my cusions were there. They were a little cracked, so I pryed them out(of course they broke). I figured they were availible, that's what I get for Thinking! >:(
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I believe what your looking for is called door align pads, The Filling Station's part number is 3681079
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Thanks 62131, but that ain't it.
Ordered my hinge pins and hinge screws from The Filling Station today. An hour later Gary called me back, asked if the hinge pins were for my coupe. I told him yes, he asked me about my bushings. I told him I didn't think I had any, walked over and looked, shore nuff did. He said well I thought you might want them. Yes I did, so he changed my order. What a great company!
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Been dealing with the loss of a couple friends and an aunt last several weeks. All in a two week span, so not much time to work lately.
Started drilling out the bodyside hinge screws. Made a bit and handle for my air hammer and got out several. The rest i'm having to drill and chase(retap) the threads.(couldn't move my wrist for two days after).
Sorry about your friends and your aunt. That's tough. I have been drilling rusty broken bolts the last couple of days and the drill stuck. I thought I broke my arthritic wrist. It's slowly getting better...You take good care of your self.
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Thanks 62131, but that ain't it.
Ordered my hinge pins and hinge screws from The Filling Station today. An hour later Gary called me back, asked if the hinge pins were for my coupe. I told him yes, he asked me about my bushings. I told him I didn't think I had any, walked over and looked, shore nuff did. He said well I thought you might want them. Yes I did, so he changed my order. What a great company!
Well take a look at their part number G-210 hope these are right
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62131, nope. They should look kinda like the p.u. ones pictured at the bottom here. My buddy has a 36 p.u. that he thought the rubbers were still on the door. P.u. has this on the frt of the door (i guess) but the car has similar on the back body side door jamb. I'm going to look at p.u. tomrrow, when he gets it dug out to measure it.
Thanks!
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Found these on AAA website
C-702610-B.jpg (3374 bytes)
'29-'32 Most Open Cars, Some '32
Closed Cars
C-702610-B ea......................................2.50
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Steve ..these are the bumper cushions that I was referring to.. posting these photo to see if we are on the same page
Photo 10 top... photo 11 bottom... photo 12 approx. 1 1/8 inches.... photo 14 approx. 1 3/8 inches
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62131, dang that isn't it either.
Ed we are on the same page. :) The pick up door rubber sure looks similar, i'll know more when I get over there this afternoon.
Here is the hole size:
Width= 3/4"
Tall= 1 1/4"
Deep= 1/2"
Open on top and bottom for rubber to lip around sheet metal to attach.
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Ed I scrounged around the shop and found the rear body jamb and the cushions/bumpers are still there. Shane wasn't home yet, he's picking up more finds. :D Figured I would take my piece back over to compare to his p.u. door.
Shane brought his new T truck in last night. Farmer said he drove it in the shed decades ago. He told me last night it still turns over.
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Tall T would make a cool driver.... showed my wife the photos she spotted all the stuff above the garage door,,said she would have fun going through his TREASURES and junk...Let me know what you come up with on the bumpers..some of the bumpers are high in price....
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Steve ..these are the bumper cushions that I was referring to.. posting these photo to see if we are on the same page
Photo 10 top... photo 11 bottom... photo 12 approx. 1 1/8 inches.... photo 14 approx. 1 3/8 inches
what you need to replace these old DOOR BUMPERS as Lynn Steele rubber calls them.
went to their online catalogue
DOOR BUMPER 70-1159-71.... ARE $7.50 EACH
DOOR BUMPER 34-0131-37 is mounted to the front door post up high, is round and attached with a screw .
MIKE LYNCH 8)
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...maybe a car hauler???
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Jerry @The Filling Station just called me back. We believe the part is #70-1159. He is sending them out to me. Great guy to deal with!
Thanks Mike, i'll see how these work as soon as they get here.
62131, thanks for the help. I think maybe I have it, (hope). That is a tall cab on that little truck. He said there was reminence of another with a really good steakbed, he is trying to trade for it also. He said it actually had a Ford badge on it.
Ed i'll give you a holler when they get here if correct. The p.u.ones were quite a bit smaller. He had a '47 Ford that was closer in size.
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Steve......GREAT...Glad you were able to locate the bumpers....now if they are the correct ones...
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I finally got the epoxy sprayed on the right qtr panel. I have really had it with that stuff! I guess i'm to stuck in the past. To me this stuff is a real pain in the a**. Tape time(stuff gets on everything) mixing, cleaning, just to spray a quick coat. (Also HATE hvlp guns, another pain),And my garage really stinks even though I had two exhaust fans running. >:(
I got on the net and found some high build lacquer primer/sufacer. So my buddy's ordering it for me, ($45 per gal +ship). Now I can get my good 'ol siphon gun back out and leave the primer in it as I need it. A lot less, stink, mess, stress, time and material waist.
, (to this old fart set in his ways). I'll save the epoxy for final coat and epoxy sealer after, like I use to! Sorry, rant over. ;D
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Steve... Looking good at least your making some progress...same for me caught a couple of nice days to do some work on some fenders....still have a long ways to go on them ...at least I can pull off of them when I've had enough and do something else
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You do not have to use HVLP guns to spray the epoxy primer, I sprayed it with my syphon gun and also the smaller touch up gun. I find sometimes that the 1.4 HVLP gun which is what recommended with that primer. I also have the 1.8 and the 2.3 HVLP guns.
I think its best to spray the high build epoxy primer and block it down with file board as a base , then use other primers over top. One problem I find with the high build primers in light grey colour , its real tough to see mini pock marks in the primers. Not the same with lacquer or nitro primers over top in oxide red or preferably black.
Hate the smell of epoxy , smells like you have a curing fiberglass car in garage.
mike
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sammons is that a disc brake rear end out of a Lincoln I LIKE vette59jdwl
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Yep Mike, but my good Binks siphon gun was down at the shop (too lazy to go get it). My favorite color is the dark grey, I could see every little imperfection in it (while sanding also) light grey is pretty hard to see for me as well. Got some hotrod black primer, it doesn't sand well or fill as good, too me anyway.
Wayner, I used the whole rear stub off a mid 70's vette. (And the front ) It fit between the rear inner wheel tubs perfect.
I got it back on the ground last night, and for the first time in months the Inspector climbed in, looked around. Of course it wore him out after. :)
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I was looking at something just like that and then i said to myself you would have to cut the front fenders to get that in there and then i said no.I think i am going to stay with what i have for now
vette59jdwl
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Steve, looks great! Car is going to be kick ass ;D
Tom
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I finally got all the screws out of the right door hinges. Got them cleaned up and new bushings in. Got all the extra holes in the front door welded up where all the wood screws were and re-hung the door. I didn't think the bushings were that bad, but the back of the door sure came up nice.
The top and front gap are on the money but the upper rear corner is low. This door was off another car and it appeard to have been ground and re-welded. The back is tight but not touching. I'll add to the top corner and trim the back edge tomorrow. Other than that I had to put a 2x4 in the upper rear and push on the bottom to draw out the vertical twist it had.(tight on top out at bottom) Shuts smooth now. :)
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Sounds like you busted butt today and got a lot done...door looks good... I haven't done nuttin on the 33....
Neat License Plate :)
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Ed if I could keep up this pace today, I might get it done. lol
Are you feeling better? I hope you are getting over that crud! That plate is one of Dads old ones. Could transfer it over, but I don't want the hassel of "It's not stock" ticket. Probably should transfer to The '58 Vette.
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Sammons that car looks so good, and the door looks to be gapped really nice.
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Door is fit is nice, It took me a couple days to get mine to fit, they can be a real pain
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That looks great, Sammons! That's one place I wish I had spent more time, doorgap.
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Sometimes you have to make the door fit the opening you have by doing a little grinding welding adding metal and making subtle changes to the door. I worked on mine for several days to get the fit I was after and they could still use a little more work.
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Yep. It's a real pain, but worth it in the end. ;)
I over worked the hands monday, so got back at it today. Ground the rear of the door off to get the correct gap, sheetmetal goes nuts when the lip goes away. ;D Got it welded back up. Welded some clothes line wire on the top corner to add some material. Then me and my big Mill Bastard file got way to well acquainted, but got it all filed down. I like a nice tight 1/8" door gap, so I use a wooden paint stir stick to get the correct gap.
Now I can clean up all the weld/ grinding dust up and call it a day!!
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That looks nice, Sammons. Good idea with the coat hanger. I spent a ton of time on my doors, I don't know why I didn't spend more time on door gaps.....now I'm getting mad at myself! >:(
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Some one been getting after their project.... taking time and doing it right pays off in the end ;D
Spent 3 more hours on the drivers fender welded and build the torn piece that attaches to the front splash apron had very little to go by but it should be close.... this was after I spent 2 hours blocking fender out on repaired area and other dents
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Sammons now that door gap looks really good, closer than factory I'm sure
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Hard work pays off. Looks great!
Tom
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sammons Your project is progressing at an alarming speed compared to this old lad.This winter i did squat and no i am not proud of my accomplishments good to see everyone else busy vette59jdwl
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Thanks fellas, I just wish I could keep at it all the time. I just hope my body is solid enough (I think it is because all the body panels and structure are tied into cage) to keep the 1/8" door gaps from biteing me in the ass! ;D
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Decided to go after the left door hinge screws today. Really had my doubts about the door side screws, somebody had used a large drill bit to start to drill them out. Looks like they give up after taking most if not all of the screw slot. I hammered on it till I got a bit of a slot banged back in them before turning on the handle. They all 12 came right out. My ears are ringing and hands are buzzing, but that's done! ;D
If you guy's don't have one of these, you need to make one. Dad built this years ago. I had fogot about it till I was cleaning up stuff at the shop a couple years ago. I broke the socket when I did my right door so I had to replace it this morn. Looked through Google and found a drawing I sent to my brother some time back.
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Neat...I use the old style put screw bit in and hammer it turns like a ratchet...still have some of those holes to weld up...been busy with honey do project..so no time on the 33 today
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I got two of those air chissels and a bunch of bits to convert...Thanks
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Great idea...reminds me that I need one for my 33 :-[
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That is a great idea...Time for me to make one of those!
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Guys the little trick to this thing working good is let the air hammer do the work. No real need to pre-spray with rust buster type penetrants as the vibration seems to knock the rust to dust. These old screws seem to be soft, and as you can see from the pic, the one screw had nothing but the crater in it. Keeping firm pressure on the air hammer, the bit(Titan) made it's own slot. Then slowly work the handle back and forth. Keep hammering and working the handle till it is out by 1/16-1/8". Then the it almost comes out with your fingers.
The socket that I broke was old and worn and dad had welded it direct. As in the pic I posted earlier, when I cut it off I welded a broken 1/4" extention on it. That way I could change sockets out in the future. Hope it works for you guys, sure beats drilling them out!
Oh, Titan Brand is the assortment bit set. My neighbour got me this for X-mas years ago, they seem like high quality hardened bits.
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Jerry @The Filling Station just called me back. We believe the part is #70-1159. He is sending them out to me. Great guy to deal with!
Thanks Mike, i'll see how these work as soon as they get here.
Ed i'll give you a holler when they get here if correct. The p.u.ones were quite a bit smaller. He had a '47 Ford that was closer in size.
[/quote]
Steve...Were these the correct bumpers for the doors ? needing to place an order with the Filling Station and thought might as well order these if they are the correct ones...
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Yes sir, they were right! Sorry Ed I thought I posted that.
The new and old one together.
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Steve..have you done any more on your coupe...or just working on other cars???
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Nope, I'm affraid it's on the back burner for quite a while. Trying to keep up on the bills. It is looking like a battle I might not win. :(
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I didn't feel like doing much, but I managed to clean up the C3 valve covers my brother sent me. Only took two days ::) I thought I would start out trying Mothers Aluminium Wheel Cleaner spray. It worked better than I thought it would, sure took the fuzzy corrosion off quick. Scotch bright pad and then buffed them and then a quick rub down with Mothers Aluminum Wheel Polish, (well not quick for me) ;) They look good enough for me any way. Usually these valve covers (C1-C3) don't polish well due to the alloy used in them, discolored spots and flaky like pitting. Most people end up glass beading them.
I hope to get the gumpsion up to actually work on the car soon :)
Add: last 2 pics. Truth in photo's ;D You can see what i'm talking about in these close-ups.
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Very nice work! 8) Got to wear my sunglasses!
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Clean and well detailed engines in drivers are way cooler than a spotless over accessarised engines in a show cars. Those are nice and real.
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They look plenty good to me Sammons, and what Sixball said is right!
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Score!!! Dupont automotive finishes sold out in 2013 to Axalta coatings system, then under Cromax coatings. From what I got they are/have phased out Centari single stage, keeping the centai bc/cc, Cromax and Imron as Fleet coatings. The man said look for old stock. Local area CarQuest had one quart old stock in back. They said they could only find one gallon of 793s gloss hardner and it was expensive, no pints found. Yesterday I went down to my buddies mech shop and was telling him I should have bought the paint for my coupe when it was still availible. He said follow me, he went up on top of his storage shelf and pulled down a gallon of it. He used about 2" out of it last year. Then he pulled out 2 pints of 793s and 3/4 of a gallon of mid temp reducer and GAVE it to me. ;D Called CQ back up and they sold me the quart for $57. So if I live long enough to get the car ready to paint, I have what I want for $57. Can't beat that with a stick! ;)
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Score is right..especially now with the prices being out of sight on paint and supplies...I have my paint and harderns and clear...bought it on line from Calif. ....just need to finish up body work....
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Sammons, nice score! Can't wait to see that Chevy in black 8)
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Nice, Sammons!!!...................Now, get 'er done.
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Man I've been worried about finding that paint since I started this project. I'm pushing my self as hard as I can. I can't wait myself to see it in Black. My buddy Travis that gave me the paint was on me to hurry up and get the body far enough along to pull it. He said he (insisted on) would bring down the boys from his shop to lift off the body and take the frame down to his place to rebuild the rear suspension for me. So as soon as I get the roof finished and get the left door built and fit i'll do that. My friend Tom has a nice low roller bench that I used for my 5w, so I'll set the body on it to finish the body work while Trav is doing the rear end.
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Trying to get back to work. I need to finish up the left door jamb but my hands are just not cooperating. So yesterday I decided I had to do something so thought I would fill in the rad cap and emblem hole (pick up grill) Finally figured out how to pull the welder trigger with my thumb. I guess it had to be done sooner or later anyway. Now I have to finish welding up the extension on it.
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No matter what, Sammons, you sure do some good work!!
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Nice job!
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i like the smooth look
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Score is right..especially now with the prices being out of sight on paint and supplies...I have my paint and harderns and clear...bought it on line from Calif. ....just need to finish up body work....
Really/ paint prices are crazy, I have purchased all my supplies I just hate to take it apart to paint it, I want to enjoy it a little first
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Nice job. It reminds me of my 27 chevy cowl I did, widening it like that. You definately have my respect wether you want it or not my friend.
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Thanks guys, nothing most of you haven't done before. Agravating no more than I did weds had me locked up yesterday. >:( If I were going to run fenders I would have left the rad cap or use a hood ornament. I think with my type build, a smooth deeper shell suits me more.
Chopper, glad your feeling better. That stuff bites! Has your son done any work to the Camaro yet?
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Thanks, Sammons, and thanks for asking about the Camaro. The furthest we got before Christmas was to clean a lot of the dirt and gunk from the engine and front suspension, it was caked on, but good. We started to take apart the brake system. I am going to see if he wants to work on it this weekend, if not, I may just do a little myself. I am also going to suggest he become a member of RBT.
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I am also going to suggest he become a member of RBT.
Good idea! One good thing about gen 1&2 Camaro's, every part is availible. A lot of NOS parts still out there too, along with GM licensed Goodmark restoration parts.
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Finally after two weeks of life getting in the way, I got back on the coupe today. ;D No visitors, phone calls or texts. I felt good and the weather was great, 83 and calm. ;) Finished the left door jamb and those tedious little bottom corners. Wire brushed all the little rust pitting on the rear qtr, and give it a good DA sanding. Decided it would take too much expensive epoxy primer to fill it (not to mention the pain in the a$$ that stuff is to me >:(), so I skim coated it with Evercoat Xtreme. Worked out well and faster that I thought, blocked it down and give it a coat of Duplicolor rattle can primer for now. Tomorrow (if luck holds) I'll go onto the wheel tub.
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Looks really great!
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That is really looking good, Sammons!
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Looking good and your weather is going your way...been cold here last couple of days...stay after it..
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Nice work, glad the weather is cooperating for you.
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Sammons looking great, glad see your having good weather because it's moving our way, hopefully I 'll get go to the garage and finish up my EFI installation
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Thanks fellas, it was good to get back on it. I hope this warmer weather gets to you guys, spose to be 91 sun :D
A reminder of simpler times, y'all know I don't care for expoxy primer. My brother was doing a remodel for an old widow, she asked if he could dispose of some chemicals her husband had in the garage. It was old Ditzler lacquer stuff.(lucky devil) He called and ask if the primer would still be good, and would work for his tailgate repair. Told him as long as it was still liquid and stirred up with out chunks, go for it. Ditzler discontinued this lable around 1969, this stuff is at least 48yrs old, mixed right up and was smooth as silk when sprayed, dried quick and sanded easy. ;D Sure wish I could find some old stock!
Note the A-L-E, for use over/under Acryics-Lacquers-Enamels. ;) Yep I know, living in the stone age. But I still love it!
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How good is it that the person who found it could use it and not just throw it away. Your coupe is looking good. The weather has been beautiful here for a week but I'm stuck working on the Bobcat and letting it dry out so I can pull the tractor out. Goal once more is to get the Chevy 4 and tranny together by May. ::)
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The 35 is looking good. I know the weather helps with my aches, and I seem to get a lot more done. I have a 35 ford coupe I am finishing up so I can bring my Buick home for awhile.
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Ghost, pics man pics! I'd like to see the Ford when you get done ;)
I had to take a break, tweeked my shoulders from sanding. I got the inner tub done today and screwed up BIG time. I couldn't talk the old dog into going in the house, so I let him stay parked by the steps. Opened the windows, put the fan on high down wind and started sanding the filler with the DA/80grt. I couldn't get my hand to smear the mud on good so it was a bit deep to start with. Went to wire brush(stand up electric) my rear lower control arm access cover and the motor didn't start, just smoke. It was completely full of dust., blew it out, oiled bearings and off to the races again. Got done, some light hand sanding and eventually in primer.
I turned around to go into the kitchen to refill my ice tea.......I failed to latch the door in the begining >:( and Duke had enough dust, pushed door open and went in. My windows were open and ceiling fans on. The wind had changed and all that bondo dust coated the WHOLE upstairs. Tomorrow will be devoted to clean up.
Can breath clean air again :)
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That dust off filler goes everywhere, it can make mess in a hurry.