Rusty Bowtie
Miscellaneous => Members Builds - Stocker -Streetrod - Ratrod - LowRider => Topic started by: FATnLOW on December 20, 2013, 09:14:30 AM
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next project for the wife
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That looks like a good solid car. What are your plans for it?
Moose
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Very solid car! Please keep us posted of the build when you get around to it.
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Heitds super ride ifs. motor ,trans mount installed, set up with S-10 rear end with Chassis Engineering components
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Very cool!
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Very nice, looks like a good foundation, keep us updated. Good luck!!
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Nice ride. I like the 2 door sedans. They make a nice cruiser. Looks like you have a good plan. Keep us posted.
Tom
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Nice. I am sure she will love it. I like the three doors on the 33 hoods
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Something else I like about the earlier hoods are those neat vents on the sides. My '35 has those cheap looking vents that just don't quite look as though they are finished somehow. But I guess in a car that only cost $485 in the first place you can't have everything.
Sounds like you are moving right along with the car.
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I am not sure but I think MAYBE....rootlieb hoods in California might make the doored hood for 34--35 standards.
They make the doored 33 and 32 chevy hood, why not a special order for a 34-35, never know till you ask ????????
http://www.rootlieb.com/chevrolet-hoods.html
I checked they do not list any 34-35 with doors, doesn't mean they cannot do it ?
One of the problems would be the interior center bracing for hood handle. The spacing of the doors would have to be done to accommodate that , as its also a stiffener.
Speaking of which, I have pair of their plain side panels and without the stock 3 long louvers the front 1/2 area of the side panel buckles inward when you turn the hood handle to lock it down. To correct this I bought some lengths of 1/2" square aluminum and used a 3M panel adhesive 2 part to bond it too the hood panel.
To do it properly you need the special application gun that's about $75 and special disposable tips. This was not an in expensive fix !!! Hopefully you could borrow the gun from a body shop who has one.
cocobolo=====you could always dress up the long vents by using stainless rod drilled and tapped to make it look like a 34 master. Not sure if they would be right length for a standard hood.
mike lynch 8)
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floor done.....
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more photos of progress
1...Put together for doors and fit
2..finally got door to close correctly
3..door gap and body lines close
4..changed rear end out to 4x4 S-10,,for wider wheels....Have 2 inches wider rear fenders
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1....33 dash... The 34 dash is ready to go in
2... Rear roll pan needs some work but other areas first :P
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more photos of progress
1...Put together for doors and fit
2..finally got door to close correctly
3..door gap and body lines close
4..changed rear end out to 4x4 S-10,,for wider wheels....Have 2 inches wider rear fenders
The doors look like they are fitting very nice, body lines are really close
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Moving right along.
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Nice work, lots of progress! Lines look great.
Tom
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Looks like a real solid floor. Looking good, FatnLow!
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FATnLOW, looking good! I finally got the back of my right door up and aligned by having my friend Tom smack the lower hinge up and back with a big hammer. :o
Keep at man! Tom likes it, but said there is no way in Haties he's going through all this. He's going fiberglass.lol :)
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actually that's HADES " the greek god of the underworld".
I knew what you meant, but had to look it up to be sure of spelling. Don't think I ever used or typed that word before.
mike
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Changed out the dash for a '34
worked on door ,,decide to keep the wood...
Passenger side door
driver side door..fabed wood and need to clean door and por 15 steel
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One door left and then the top installed
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wood, who says chevys got wood ?
very nice wood work on the doors. Never noticed a 34 master dash used in a 33 master before..........looks like it belongs and makes sense. I have one in my 35 std coupe and modified one for my 35 standard roadster ( had to make it 2" wider ) !!!!
Hope you have the 3 die cast chrome spears in middle raised area of dash, as they are a pig to find for sale. That area was also for factory cigarette lighter and center spear had hole in it to let wire run thru.
mike
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Nice save, looking good!
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Nice job on the wood work!
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Good job on the wood
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I can not wait to start the wood on the 32 roadster not that i am affraid to its that i am not 100 percent set up to tackile that just yet but when the day comes i will let you all know vette59jdwl
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Looks great, FATnLOW! You are blasting right through.
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drivers door then and now,,,Going shopping tomorrow for all the door window channel and vent window rubber plus steering components,radiator, a/c unit and other parts... Okc Nats.
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Now I'd say that's heck of an improvement...Nice work!!!!
Moose
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Beautiful job.
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Yes nice job looking good.
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Top notch work!
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Great woodwork!!
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Got the sand blaster out and blasted rear fender wells and used small sand blast gun for the corners of the doors...almost done have direct to metal primer bought, just another go around and a DA job, and ready to primer
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Here yow go Fatnlow had these pictures from the street Rod Nationals 2014 in Knoxville Tn.They might help you to get really motivated ;)
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You won't believe it..but I have all the paint and supplies for Plum Crazy paint job Thanks for the Photos....I see it coming together..
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Shot some primer.. High Teck Direct To Metal primer..... needed to cover all that expose bare metal , checked body for any missed spots and DA the entire body, been a busy day
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Doing work on rear roll pan and hopefully setting up steering using ram horn exhaust manifolds ...
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Set dummy motor and transmission with all the correct mounts back in
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Fatnlow it's looking good, looks like your primer laid down smooth
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Filling a roof/ top opening...after searching for a station wagon or van top to use as a donor with out any luck, I ended up with one from a salvage yard that had a flood sale. Paid $32 for the top..i cut it off at the pillars so I would have the bracing if I need them, Photos are in the rough cut fitting stage
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Looks like it'll fit pretty good. What vehicle did it come off of?
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Tom.... So far I'm happy with the fit, it laid down well... and I thought 6 ribs might look odd but I believe I will like the look of the top.. I removed it from a 2001 Jeep Grand Cherokee, I Still Need to cut it to length
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Top is welded in.... 1st round of filler in....Then a lot of blocking ..
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Top looks real good FATnLOW. I like the look of those flat top ribs vs the round top ones.
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Fatnlow that roof looks great looks like it was made for it. Nice choice.
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Nice ;D
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Looks great, FATnLOW. I like those flat ribs too.
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there must be a way to re-inforce the insert metal roof panel , so that it cannot flex with the wind. Usually after a period of 5 years or so all that bondo starts to crack from the welded insert.
I am thinking that using tubing or hardwood cross bracing right up against the roof panel might help alleviate a potential problem.
Has anybody else noticed this problem on cars at shows??????????
Oh ya, the roof insert really looks good with flat tops
mike lynch 8)
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When placing something against the roof to help support it from the wind it also needs to be able to flex with the expansion from the heat also.
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My plan is to run the metal bracing along the roof and leave about a 1/4" gap to be filled in with automotive spray foam. Actually already framed my car....just need to foam it after I finish the roof....the spray foam needs to be firm but flexible.
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I used four lengths of "L" channel. I ground them to the curvature of the inside of the roof, fit them within a 1/16" to the roof and welded them to square tubing I ran around the perimeter and above the door openings. It helped stiffen up the entire upper section of the body and roof and the flat part of the "L" gave me something to secure the headliner to. I'm sorry but I have no pictures.
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good replies, that's what I was hoping to see for members of this rusty bowtie community to help them build better cars/street rods thru innovation in techniques......
anybody else have anything to add..........?
happiness is a job well done and lasts and lasts
mike 8)
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Bracing for the roof....In the front and back I cut a piece of flat stock the same arc of the roof hole and tack welded that roof to it. Then I used 1x3 tubing for the other 2 braces welded that to 1x1 sq tubing on the side that runs from front to back . On top of the front 1x3 I used 3/4" pipe foam wrap, opening it along the slit and used spray glue to hold that in place (the donor roof had foam glued on the rib brace to the roof that went from side to side) so I thought about using the pipe wrap insulation Also used Liquid Nails adhesive on top of the foam to the roof.
On the next brace I welded a 3/8 inch round stock to the 1 x 3 stock , and I'm going to glue more foam on the back side,
Photo shows plastic wire ties holding pipe wrap in place after I sprayed glue on ,,in between wire ties Liquid nails was used
then I set the top on over the liquid nails
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I really like that top on there. Nice work
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Here's how I did my flat roof bracing, I took some 14ga metal bent a 90 degree and placed it tight against the roof with a 1/2" bead of seam sealer and pushed it against the roof to aid in expansion. It is clamped into place waiting for the sealer to cure. Then I'm going to tack weld it to the cross bracing before removing clamps.
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That looks nice too, I liked FATnLOW's also. That was my thinking on the braces, I was thinking silicon gasket material, but seam sealer would work as well. Good job guys!
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I did mine almost exactly as 62131 did his.
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Went out and sprayed my DTM primer on.....But only put on One light coat,,,Ran out of primer...guess I was to excited to get it in primer..oh well at least it wont rust....now off to buy more....
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That looks really good! Nice work!
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Installed a pair of Bucket seat that I had in storage...Don't know if I am going to keep them in....Last week went to salvage yard and spotted a BMW with electric drivers seat........ may go back and get those ... but I needed to install these so I could get a feel for brake pedal install
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Steering install ..... I think I finally got the steering worked out, Been a bear working the steering around these Ram Horn style headers...
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Nice work!
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Nice. I like the seats you have in there, unless you want more creature comforts and we all do.
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Seats look comfortable, .nice fit
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Looking good. I think those seats would do the trick for me.
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Finally..got the body and frame separated..... .frame needs more boxing, gas tank install , fuel lines and brake lines mock in place then off to the sand blasters....then re-assembly
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Your getting there. It takes time, but when the body goes back on it feels great.
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FATnLOW you are cruising right along! I like your 3rd brake light location, that's exactly where I was going to put mine (before I had clearance issues)
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Tom Foch.....Thanks a lot for all your photos and postings on the '33 gas tank install..with all the thought and planning you did on your install I believe that this should go fairly easy, was dreading this project but had to start on it to see what I was up against
Pulled off Boxing the frame need to install 2 more pieces ,,,,,started on the fuel tank install to get a feel of the project , when completed ..... off to the sand blaster
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Cool, glad I could help! Looking forward to seeing how yours comes out.
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Tank is installed.. need to clean up welds...One more project then off to get it sand blasted
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The fabrication work looks great, and sturdy. Nice
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Looks great! One more thing out of the way.
Tom
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Looks like you're making progress.
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Making some progress...Finished boxing the frame..... installed brake lines and fuel line, then removed them, installed some gussets on the transmission mount off to the sand blaster in the morning ...gonna be a busy week end, but getting things accomplished
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progress is good.
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FATnLOW, I came within a 100 miles of ya on the trip to Branson. Wish I would have had time to drop in and see the progress on the '33. Keep on chugging man! ;)
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Sammons ..should have came by. We have been planning a trip to Branson Also but things happen and we keep putting it off. Planning on going to Crusin The Coast also in Oct...Gotta have some out of the garage time and plus momma want to get away .Got the frame sand blasted ...will post photos later
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working on the frame after getting it sand blasted ... still a lot of work to do.....
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Fatnlow your frame looks great, I remember that time in my build, :)
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worked a little more on the frame, still lacking emergency brakes and 1brake line..made a little progress
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Nice progress!
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Looking nice, really clean!
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Looks like you have gotten alot done since your last post. Keep going!
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Looking good, nice progress.
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Been working on the '33..... Got gauge panel built and installed the A/C control on a panel in the glove box wanted to hide the A/C control panel on the ' 34 dash, Still have a lot of room for the A/C unit
Sammons...Spears gonna work out ok for me ;)
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FATnLOW, glad your finally getting better. My buddy Tom's doc tried all kinds of different pills for his summer allergies(every year) then finally tried some kind of steroid shot?, and knocked it right out. Haha, same with my dog, they would both start sneezing with in a week of each other (and the dog would get a rash on his belly).
I like your dash layout, and the a/c controls in side the glove box. Glad you were able to make use of the spears.
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Nice work on the dash! The glove box is a great place to hide things. I need to do something with my heater controls to make it look cleaner.
tom
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Clever idea FATnLOW, nice, clean look.
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Body back on the frame, now body work on the front fenders .....
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FATnLOW What type of front end is that If i ever was going to put a front end in the 32 It would be one like that please let me know make and model thanks vette59jdwl
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Vette..... Front end is Heitdt's Super Ride BX-114 For 1934-1936 Chevy Master
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I would need it to fit the original 32 chevy frame will get in touch with them in the morning thanks very much vette59jdwl. I do have a 65 corvair front end complete but a good friend wants it real bad and i think it would look to heavy in the 32 roadster
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I use one from Kugel. They have one for the 32 Chevy and it fit great. I didn't want to get rid of the stock front cross member so I notched it in the center and install the front end square tube in the opening and welded it all the way across and up the sides of the frame so it became an integral part of the cross member/frame. It's never gonna fall out . Here's a link..Give them a call and talk to Jeff the owner.
http://www.kugelkomponents.com/front_suspension/frontsuspension.php
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I would need it to fit the original 32 chevy frame will get in touch with them in the morning thanks very much vette59jdwl. I do have a 65 corvair front end complete but a good friend wants it real bad and i think it would look to heavy in the 32 roadster
WAYNE...just cruising ebay usa this morning and a pair of nice rear fenders for 29--32 chevy were listed for sale last nite.
mike
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Mike 32 is 32 only unless it is 33 truck i will take a look thanks vette59jdwl
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MadMike3434 The one on the right is a 1931 chevy rear fender the one on the left is not the same and is not a 32 but is a 1930 chev rear fender vette59jdwl thanks
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when I saw the ad I thought of your needs.
Am on ebay every day and sometimes go to the 32 section to see if any 34-35 parts misidentified.
mike
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MIKE I have no idea who these turkeys are that put up things on e bay I can not believe some of the adds like fits chevrolet pontiac ford must have also fits Rolls Royce what a$$holes.It either fits a 33 or 35 or whatever but it doesn't fit everything most these clowns sound like they are from slabovia
vette59jdwl thanks mike
I had a set of 31 chevrolet rear fenders that were in perfect shape so i put them on the 32 for now
I also have a 31 trunk that is going on the 32 till i find the proper rumble seat lid.
I can live with it It is my 32 chevy deluxe roadster 6 cylinder 230 =5 speed with Dodge D-50 rear end ( Bits & Pieces
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People who list, lets say a fender , have no idea exactly what it fits and by putting in multiple makes , are hoping somebody who is looking for rear fender for a whatever, that these fit their car, because the actual owner knows what they look like.
How many times have you had a part and could not identify it. ??
They are not a$$holes from lower slobovia or middle slobovia or upper slobovia either, they do not know and are using a SPAM system by using multiple makes. If you wish you can complain directly to ebay about the spamming.
mike........ 8)
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Mike if i had a part that i didn't know what it was i would GOOGLE it or asked someone for advice and their knowledge on the article before i posted something i din't have a clue about,because that would make an a$$hole out of moi vette59jdwl
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I have people ask me all the time, do you know what this fits ?????? Sometimes its easy sometimes its impossible because its outside my interest zone. I know 33--35 Chevrolets and not much about 31 and before and 36 and above.
Why ?? Because I have no interest in them.
Wayne here is a little test for you or anybody else..........
3---who makes the 16 valve valve covers that are 2 piece.
2---who makes the flagged tall & wide 2 piece covers
1---what motor do these valve covers fit
mike
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FATnLOW i'd guess you had some of your energy back! ;) I hadn't seen my buddy Tom since monday, he said he had a cold that was kicking his ass.lol looking good man!
Moose, I really like the way you retained your crossmember.
Mike i'd say they look like they fit sbc, (as they appear to be similar to the big two piece ones that my friend give me). I don't know who makes them though. I really like the finned ones with the crossflags. ;D
I found a similar Moroso set on ebay, yikes, $1000.
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Mike i'd say they look like they fit sbc, (as they appear to be similar to the big two piece ones that my friend give me). I don't know who makes them though. I really like the finned ones with the crossflags. ;D
I found a similar Moroso set on ebay, yikes, $1000.
They are LARSON ENGINEERING, first ones had the cross flags opening cast into the tops. They were made for SBC and BBC. Common are the sbc ones, hard to get is the BBC ones as they made only less than 50 pair I read somewhere. They were produced also by Moroso as induction engineering.
Total performance in Conn also sold them when they were repo'd by D J BRANSON in fla. Since then he sold the tooling and casting molds to a guy in ark or arz who has done nothing with them . Also available for these was an air cleaner for holley or afb single or 2 x 4. Looked like side draft webers.
Now that the one set, who has the answer to the other set of black 16V ones.????
mike 8) 8) 8) 8) 8) 8) 8)
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Mike, I don't know…."Why ?? Because I have no interest in them." :) Now if it was a '25-'28 Chevy 4 cylinder I'd pay attention. It's great that we don'e all like the same stuff there wouldn't be enough to go around. 8)
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Mike they look like Toyota they are to square to be Mazda vette59jdwl
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Mike they look like Toyota they are to square to be Mazda vette59jdwl
nope the 16 valve rocker covers are not for any furren car, they are for a v8
while looking for another picture of them I came across this one. Its got a relocated distributor to front drive, the carbs are Ferrari on some weird intake manifold, toss in those 16 valve covers and mass confusion reigns !!
And these valve covers fit ?????? a XXXXXXX motor
mike
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After looking at the planned location of my fuse panel ,finally got it mounted by turning it 90 degrees...also got all the wires in their right location, motor section, headlight section ,tail section and interior section,,using a Hay Wire fuse panel first time to use this, got this on sale a few years ago at NSRA event,,Usually install Ron Francis kit...but this one seem t compare to it, wire is marked every 6 inches and marked very clearly, and has a lot of circuits that I will not use such as power windows,,power seats , clock , park lights and a few others
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FATnLOW, where did that end up being at? Do you happen to have a pic?
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Mike they look like Toyota they are to square to be Mazda vette59jdwl
The valve covers are 2 piece and made by the GENNIE SHIFTER COMPANY, they fit small block chevy. I have these on my 350 in 35 coupe. People are always looking at them trying to figure out what the motor is.
There was another 2 piece valve cover made that was 7" wide also, LARSON ENGINEERING. Made about the same time early 80's . The larsons show up on ebay usa more frequently and sell anywhere from $400 to $1500 depending on condition.
mike
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Mounted fuse panel here..was suppose to be higher but brake assembly crowded my space..as it is mounted accessing the fuses will be easy.. no contorted positions to get to the fuse box...
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been working on wiring...made a swing open panel cover and installed Peel and Seal for sound deadener
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Still have to mount a piece of flat steel on the uni-struts so A/C can be mounted on to it.....also mounted battery box still need to fabricate a top and front side for it...
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Fatnlow i like your battery holder i just don't see your holddown vette59jdwl lookin good
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Vette.....Angle iron (look at the bottom front) held in by the 2 bolts ,,angle iron hold down goes on outer edge of battery
Photos not the battery I am going to use...Will use Group 42 battery Length 9.31 inches by 6.31 inches by 6.31 inches
I am going to cut the battery box down to accept the group 42 battery.. Battery in box is for mock up only.. Photos of angle iron hold down
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Fatnlow what sound deadener did you use?
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Fatnlow what sound deadener did you use?
62131...
I used Peel and Stick seems to take the tinny sound out of the fire wall, hope it knocks the heat down also.. I still have the old style firewall insulation if the heat and sound is an issue I'll install that also.
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That's what I thought it was, I used it in my 38, at first I was concerned about the asphalt smell from what I had read . It doesn't have any at all. That's what will go in my 32
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That's what I thought it was, I used it in my 38, at first I was concerned about the asphalt smell from what I had read . It doesn't have any at all. That's what will go in my 32
62131.. Did you use peel and stick on the floor?? Been thinking about using it on the floor and especially on the tranny hump and around the floor shifter. May use it on the inside of the doors rather than the bubble wrap...any opinions??
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FATnLOW I did not see that in the first pics I thought maybe you were going to use the old chevy truck hold down or the new rubber block with the 10mm screw that holds the battery into the box either way looks cool vette59jdwl
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FATnLOW nice progress! Great work on the battery box.
Tom
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been working on wiring...made a swing open panel cover and installed Peel and Seal for sound deadener
That should keep it hid good! ;)
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That's what I thought it was, I used it in my 38, at first I was concerned about the asphalt smell from what I had read . It doesn't have any at all. That's what will go in my 32
62131.. Did you use peel and stick on the floor?? Been thinking about using it on the floor and especially on the tranny hump and around the floor shifter. May use it on the inside of the doors rather than the bubble wrap...any opinions??
Yes I did, I covered the whole floor pan and even the trunk area, I even did my doors and kick panel area. I never had any smell of asphalt at all, I know one thing once it's down it's stuck
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62131...Thanks for the info....
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Man you are moving along with your car. I like everything you have done to get it to this point.
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Need some inspiration..... Working my on dash...I would like to see photos of other dashes and consoles either on the floor or over head....have an idea in mind but wanted to see photos of your dash.
Haven't been doing much of anything with the 33 since I have to re make A/C pods.. need to get inspired and motivated again
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All I have is the black walnut behind the gauges from the tree I had to cut down to build my garage. I plan to do something with the heater controls at the bottom to match the gauges. I don't have AC so I can't help you there. Here's a couple of pics. Hope you get your inspiration back. You're at a point that each thing you get done gets you even closer to that first ride. Keep up the great work!
Tom
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.. need to get inspired and motivated again
FatNlow, me too! I need the old man to come back and ride my a$$ like he use to on these projects! ;D He never let grass grow under my feet for sure.
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Sorry, FATnLOW, but I have nothing for you. My dash is plain-Jane and I don't even have all the gauges yet. Add that to Christmas coming up and I don't see too much time or money invested in my car until after the new year. :'(
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Sammons.....Gonna make the same style of A/C pods like on your build.... But I feel that I need a short dash extension to kinda tie in the a/c pod on the passenger side and a console for radio and some floor vents for the A/C and what ever else that I need to put there. The only obstacle I have is that I still want to use the cowl vent, so I will have to have some kind of opening in the console to access the handle. The drivers side is ok as the A/C pod meets the column drop....So looks like i'll be making a lot of patterns from card board until I like what I see. I have a vision in my head of what I want now just getting it in a card board so I can build it
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Ed, i ended up making an electric vent opener. Does your handle mount more to the center(like a 34 std), or to the outer drivers side? Reason i ask is i beleive i still have a 34' master LH mount handle that you are welcome to. It may move it futher the left to give a little more console area room.
Here is a pic of my old '34master with the handel installed. I wish i had a head on pic because this pic angel makes it look too far to the left.
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Sammons.....Gonna make the same style of A/C pods like on your build.... But I feel that I need a short dash extension to kinda tie in the a/c pod on the passenger side and a console for radio and some floor vents for the A/C and what ever else that I need to put there. The only obstacle I have is that I still want to use the cowl vent, so I will have to have some kind of opening in the console to access the handle. The drivers side is ok as the A/C pod meets the column drop....So looks like i'll be making a lot of patterns from card board until I like what I see. I have a vision in my head of what I want now just getting it in a card board so I can build it
You know there is a electric cowl vent motor kit that can be purchased? I have found a little 12vdc gear motor and plan on making my own as I do not have enough room for the manual lever because of my a/c unit. The gear motor I found is like 2" Sq. and 10 rpm which if I did my math correctly it should open or close the vent in 3 seconds.
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Sammons...My handle is in line with the left hole of the 3 that are above the spears...I believe that if I move it to the drivers side I might get really close to my Tach gauge... and I looked at some linear actuators and found out that they are to large
Steve.. Thanks for the offer if the cowl motor does not work out I may take you up on the unit
62131
You know there is a electric cowl vent motor kit that can be purchased? I have found a little 12vdc gear motor and plan on making my own as I do not have enough room for the manual lever because of my a/c unit. The gear motor I found is like 2" Sq. and 10 rpm which if I did my math correctly it should open or close the vent in 3 seconds
If you have any more info on this cowl vent motor kit, dealer that sells it I would greatly appreciate the info. This could be the ticket out of my vent problem
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Fatnlow It is offered thru Watsons Streetworks their part number L34 complete kit, motor only L34m.
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62131..Thanks for the info...
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There is another style from millstone. On ebay for $100. Kind of a neat setup, looks like it mounts to firewall?
And what i built with 2000 Silverado pwr window set up.
Ebay listing pic, says for 53-55 Ford p.u.
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62131..Thanks for the info...
If you Google electric cowl vent opener you will get a lot of hits.
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Went out to the shop this morning and got the plasma out and cut this out...Still have a ways to go on it but it didn't take long to do this as I made a pattern yesterday and then modified it this morning while I was laying it out...... What do you guys think??
does it look to bulky? This will eventually be covered in Ultra leather the same as what will go on the seats
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Did some more work on my console... Hand formed the curve piece and cut out side pieces... still a lot more to be done but at least it's warm enough to get out and do something...still have to weld in other side
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Fatnlow I like it, there's plenty of room for floor vents, radio, swing out cup holders endless possibilities
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I like the way it's turning out. I was going to fab a small panel to go under my dash to house my heater controls. I was thinking of slicing a quarter length wise out of some steel fuel line and tacking it around the bottom edge of the panel to add a radius. Not sure what you're going to do about the sharp edge but just a thought.
Tom
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other side tack welded in....
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Any one know where I can buy one of these trim plates for the floor shifter ? Need one of these for my console
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Ed I don't know where to get that one, but.... I saved these from a flip rear seat (Dodge Ramcharger or mini van 2nd/3rd row seats). Mine are probably around mid '80's, but salvage yards may have some later model (cleaner) ones. You are welcome to any of these, but the chrome ain't the best and a few scratches. Just a thought in case you can't find any.
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Steve ..Thanks for the info.. I will check it out at the Salvage yard....If I can't find any I may take you up on the offer,,Thanks
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When your at the salvage yard, don't over look all vans with seating. I thought there was one with stainless steel bezels on the floor, Ford Aerostar?
Both my old Ramchargers came from farmers and they flipped the rear seat up and hauled hay and feed outa the back, thus the scraped up bezels. You might be able to find a local bike builder that does small parts chrome in shop.
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Decided to make a floor console with cup holders to kinda tie the stand up console together...Speedway has some cup holder inserts that I'm going to use
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Looking good. That should be an easy reach. Too early in the day for a beer? lol ;D
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Console looks great, cup holders conveniently located.
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Nice work! Nothing like a cool drink in reach when you're on a cruise.
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Console looks great. I really like the steering wheel I hope you are gonna use it.
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Looks great, form and function!
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console in primer
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Looking good Fatnlow i just grabbed one of those plastic cup holders from a pontiac van back seat and screwed it to the dash works fine for me merry Christmas and happy holidays to all the gang a better bunch of guys can be found nowhere vette59jdwl
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Thanks Vette..I agree this is the only site that I enjoy,,,No squabbling or down grading. .Merry Christmas to all
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Also if we screw up or just plain make a mistake who gives a rats ass we can say we are sorry all is forgiven I made a mistake and carry on just plain laid back old english got to love it vette59jdwl
Merry Christmas to all and to all i am hitting the road.latter dudes
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Nice progress on the console! Going to be a great looking interior.
Tom
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Tom ..... I have the concept of what I want the interior to look like..was going to cover the consoles in beige/ tan color ultra leather.. but wanted to see the same color painted on , then from there I can decide on the leather or paint . Plan on using a 2001-2002 Camaro rear seat, seen a set in a 30 or 32 Chevy sedan using the tunnel hump and seats. But that's down the road before I get started on the rear.....
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Very nice Ed, that's gonna look great! I'm gonna have to kick it in hi gear to catch up. ;D Have a great weekend with the family!
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Thanks Steve.... With all this nice weather mid 60's- Low 70's I have been in the shop more ....trying to get things done...
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Ed are you floating away over there? The wind kicked up here late yesterday, then last night temps in the high teens and 30-50mph staying through monday. No moisture yet.
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Steve...What a change in the weather 70 degrees to high 30's. A lot of rain got 1.5 inches in 40 minutes yesterday morning ..7 --8 inches of rain so far in the area around us and more coming. Windy as all get out , right out of the North. Expecting sleet and snow later on. They have some roads closed off due to the flooding of roadways and probably a lot of trees blown down, So looks like I'll be staying on the hill for a while
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I'm glad you are up on a hill! Talked to my brother on the west central coast last night. They have been in a bad 4yr drought, now just a little rain. He said just a bit of wind and his trees on the ranch are dropping like flys. He calls them wussy trees, small root system and not massive like back here. He was out cutting them up yesterday.
Stay dry man! ;D
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Some of the flooding in our area----10 inches and still raining
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Some of the flooding in our area----10 inches and still raining
Ed,
Sorry to hear, stay safe and on high ground!
Tom
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Been cold here. managed to get cup holders in console.....suppose to warm up next week
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Looks good Ed! Did you say you got those cup inserts from Speedway? I couldn't find them in my cataloge.
Hope your flooding has gone down. Mom said they got right around 10" just N.E. of Branson, they are up high too. That snow storm totally missed here and you got the rain instead.
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Nice! Nothing like a cool beverage when you're cruisin' (non-alcoholic of course)!
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I like those. I was just thinking if I would use something like that, and the answer was a resounding YES
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Steve.. I purchased the small one due to the room I was working with but here is the link off of the net
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Search?query=drink+holders
Ended up with 11.8 inches of rain..the Lake is still 33 feet above normal they are releasing a small amount of water,in an effort as not to cause any more strain on the current flood situation down stream of the Dam. Good thing i'm at least 110 feet above where the current water level is at now
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Holly Crap Bat Man at those prices i think i would be looking at cup holders for a boat and they would be plastic if they screwed up you just though them out and replace 3 to 5 bucks
vette59jdwl
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Thanks for the link! Now if i can find a place to install them. ;D
Man...i'm tight, but i'll pay the $12 and not have to replace it later. :)
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Swiss Cheese......Next on the list is to repair drivers fender..have a 34 fender that I will cut up and use for the repair
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I use four front fenders to make two on mine. The two I cut up had the side mount wells. I have some pieces left if you need any.
Tom
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Tom...if you have the bead piece over the front tire on the passenger side I could use that... it would save me a headache on that fender..let me know what you have... photos of passenger fender would help ..Thanks
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It's very solid but pretty banged up. Might work for you if you're good with a hammer and dolly. It's yours if you want it. Let me know.
Tom
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Tom.. Bead seems to look on yours, ok mine is crinkled about 6 inches both ways from the side fender mounting holes... is this fender complete ?? I believe I can use yours to repair mine...need to work out shipping on it and I am in no hurry to get it as I have a ton of stuff to keep me busy. how large of a box and weight do you estimate on the fender,,,Thanks
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I'll get it out in the garage and get a pic of the whole fender tomorrow. With the pieces I used I may be able to cut it up and fit it in a smaller box than you think. Hope it helps.
Tom
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Tom.. Thanks a bunch.... ED
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most people shipping fenders usually do it with greyhound bus lines. those they will take, the 34-35 style with long tongue, the tongue is what puts it way over what they will take.
As I found out, had to get a fender freighted by tractor trailer from Oregon, cost $550. was perfect fender and worth it.
mike lynch
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Ed,
Here's some better pics. Let me know if you're interested.
Tom
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I'd like to make a donation too that fender, it's been seriously abused .
mike
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Thanks to TFoch ... put the fender part that Tom sent to use ,,,Welded in and first coat of filler on repair Before and after photos
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Nice work Ed! Glad those pieces helped you out.
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That look better.
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A few coats of high build primer and a little blocking good as new
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Look'n good Ed.
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Night and day, Ed. Looks good!
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Worked on drivers side fender 1st coat of all metal on ...still a few dents to knock out....
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Look'n good Ed! Smoothing out.
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After doing some of the on the major bad spots on the fenders and sandblasting fenders...thought I needed to shoot some primer on these fenders before the rust set in again.. got out this morning and shot some High Teck Direct to Metal high build primer on the fenders , now the real work will begin in getting all of the small dents and scrapes and creases out...I don't claim to be a body man but I like doing my own work , and it saves me some $$$ ::) Pics 1 and Driver side fender .. 3 and 4 Pass fender
Passenger side fender was the worst of the two had major dent above and to the left of pointed spear and wheel well lip damages that need to be cut out and replaced in two places.....
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Sun drying Fenders ;D poor man's way :-\
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Haha, Ed i've done that many times myself. We've been sticking right around 70° here. I noticed while ago when I took the ol dog out, green spots in the yard and the trees are starting to leaf out. Not good on the trees as we usually get a cold snap in march sometime. Have fun man!
I guess daylight savings is just two weeks away. ;D
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Wow they've come a long way Ed! It's nice when you can do some of the work yourself. Keep that money in your pocket :D
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Time and patience, looking good.
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Time and patience as Chopper said, people who do it understands how much it takes
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Pounding highs down , working lows spots, shrinking and fill low spots and a whole lot of sanding then next round of primer...
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FATnLOW it is a long tedious road but the results will put a smile on your face,and then you will realize that it was not just a walk in the park vette59jdwl
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Looking good, don't slow down!!
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Been working on the 33 ..what do you all think about the head lights...too small?? Do they fit the car suppose to be 1935??? Head lights but not for sure
Made the left side of the 'V" bar on bottom of the grille shell......was broken and rusted out......was a tedious job to get all the reveal lines to show up correctly.......getting tired of body work but still have 2 more projects that require work
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I got similar size head lights on my 35, am using the guide B3 type with signal on top. Been on there since 1970. Beauty is that 7" sealed beams fit right in.
Stock 33 lights have a whole lot more size to them. I have looked at the larger stock lights many times but never felt the urge to dig into wallet and buy them
mike lynch 8)
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MIKE... That's what I liked about the 35 headlights...able to use the 7 inch seal beam...yours look like the same that I have so that being said it must be a 1935 head light....gonna have a mish mash of parts on this car 33-34- and 35 chevy items
I have a spare set of head light bars if any one is looking for a pair for '33 Chevy Master
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Ed,
I think they look fine. Being able to use the sealed beams is a plus. A mish mash of parts is what makes it yours.
Tom
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I agree. Those look good Ron
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Ed they look just fine, I think you will be happy with the amount of light you will get from them
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Ed they great from where I sit!
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I like 'em, FATnLOW, you don't want them to be overbearing.
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I agree with everyone else they look great on your car.
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Didn't want to spend money on running board mats...came up with this idea I had to try first.......this is first coat of this bed liner product.. the next coat should level everything out and blend the first coat and conceal the divots...was worth the try for the money spent on the product
Going to have enough of this product left over I might do the under side of the front fenders .... just a thought
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Heck that looks pretty good. Are you using the roll on or spray? I've used the spray (rattle can Duplicolor) on many things in the past with good results. I painted a big rig for a guy and he wanted me to spray his steps and a non-slip pad on top of the rear fenders. It held up real well. Keep at it! ;D
This got me to thinking back what dad used to do. We always had late model totaled (70's) LTD's out back, he would cut that heavy pebble grain vinyl top off and recover his running boards.
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I like that bedliner idea...plan on using it on portions of the front floor foot area of my 33 Chevy. Some of that commercial spray on stuff can actually lay out about 1/4" thick if need be.
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Steve....Actually I used a paint brush on the first coat. tack welded the mounting clips so they would not move .. then brushed that area a little heavier to build up that divot ..the next coat I will use a roller to level it all out...
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Looks good to me FATnLOW. Innovative!
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1 piece hood for the top..and removable side panels..hinge rod on side pieces were a bear to get out. Decided to go this way due to a bad center hinge and wanted to protect the paint.....have correct head light arms on order.. Side panel fits good ..now just finish hood and support rods
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Where did you find the right headlight bars? Hood looks good. Do you have all the pulls for the hood doors?
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Tom...Dale Stevens..had 2 sets ..I paid more than I should have but needed them before next Monday....I have all door pulls for the doors...car was pretty well complete but head light arms were incorrect guess some one swapped the car ones for truck ones. Now I have 2 sets of truck arms
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Dang Ed, your moving right along! :) Look'n real good man.
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Man you are moving on that, FATnLOW! Looks great!
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Getting ready to tack weld the halves together....fun????
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Looks like fun Ed. ;) Are you going to have smooth hood or will it still have the rib?
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smooth on top...but should have left a rib ..got a little warp at the cowl end..if I would have left a rib don't think it would have warped...when I welded I hammered and dolly all welds ,,guess I got it a little hot...it wil be a 3 pc. hood, with removable sides...
still have to come up with side hood hinge.....getting tired of this hood project...might look into Dan Fink hood latch system the 3 -way system...also I like the Fast Forward hinge system.......but they are $$$$
also got the correct head light bars on...what a difference on the fit..really happy with those bars
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FATnLOW I have the same problem as you or at least i think i have.What i am looking for is a stainless steel hinge that i can weld or pop rivet to the sides and top all three of my hinges are crap or broken to the point i need a knew hood or fix the one i have and fix it correctly vette59jdwl
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There is a seller on ebay who was making "center of the top" hood hinge assembly for 1933--1935, offered them in chrome.
Not sure about a 32 Chevrolet as I have not really looed at one. Cannot remember last time I saw one at a cruise nite.
How about ROOT LIEB HOODS out of California, he makes the hoods stock or 3 piece. He might offer them with 32 ford center hinge ??? Check out his site and see what he offers.
Believe the ebay seller is AMERICAN MUSCLE who sells the stock chevy 33-35 center hinge.
BOWTIE REPRODUCTIONS in ohio specializes in 1932 Chevrolet parts.
mike lynch 8)
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FATnLOW I have the same problem as you or at least i think i have.What i am looking for is a stainless steel hinge that i can weld or pop rivet to the sides and top all three of my hinges are crap or broken to the point i need a knew hood or fix the one i have and fix it correctly vette59jdwl
I have a set of galvanized hinges in the garage, I will post some pictures for you if your interested.
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I've seen one like that at a car show. Very cool! Is that what you're thinking about?
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PK what i did was STUPID and i was in a hurry and not thinking DAH should have just walked away DAH I was checking on measuring the frame for a friend and i grabbed the hood and lifted it all of a sudden it folded and twisted the center rib all the hang.I sprayed it about twenty times and tried like old get up to streighten it but no chance the side ones are ok but the center one is toast .so here is what i have been thinking mock up a 100 percent stainless steel hinge down the center mark it with a scriber then cut the old hinge out and put the S.S. Hinge in maybe spot weld it in a new hood is 1,950 bucks not costing taxes or shipping.OH and i broke the distributor shaft has anyone done that OK i didn't do it the previous owner did vette59jdwl
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vette..Sounds like today was not your day...I guess Have a good Day is out of the question...I hate it when I have those kind of days..maybe tomorrow will be better day..at least you know what you have to do on your hood
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Decided to make my own hood hinges...still need to do more work on it, but been tied up with" honey dos"
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It looks like it will work, I like your idea keep us posted on your progress
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FATnLOW looking good You are not going to believe what i did YES i crazy glued the distributor,before you get all fuzzy on me i took pictures of where it was broken they also wanted 45 68 plus tax for a distributor cap i picked up up in Evans Mills.Auto-Zone 12 bucks us
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Nice work I like the way it swings up!
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vette..Sounds like today was not your day...I guess Have a good Day is out of the question...I hate it when I have those kind of days..maybe tomorrow will be better day..at least you know what you have to do on your hood
You might just want to stay on the couch sense it's Friday the 13th
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When i went to FIRE colleage that was my number 13 and i had a black cat and walked under ladders so no NO suspisions here note even a little bit vette59jdwl
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Ed, looks like you are gaining. Been side tracked myself lately.
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After about a month and having to make modifications finally got the hood opening smoothly..now need to finish welding and dress up the welds and make it look a little better.
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That's pretty slick Ed. :) That would hurt my brain trying to figure out the mechanicals. ;)
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Looks great! Next level ? hydraulics to open/close it ;D
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Very cool Ed. I guess you're not going to have the eagle on top of the grille shell.
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FATnLOW, that looks great!!
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Smoothed out the firewall....
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BIG difference, and it's motivational too! ;D
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That looks really good.
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It looks great, Keep at it. I remember when I was at that point,
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Cleaned out the garage ready to get back on the '33
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Ed, looks like it's almost ready to cruise! Looks great out in the light of day. Get back at it!
Tom
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Where's the snow?
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question on firewall 2 brackets same height as side indents, what are they for ????????????
mike 8)
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Ed, glad to see you get ready to get back at it! Are you going to be there a while before moving? Hope your getting the same weather as me.
"Where is the snow?" Haha, it sure ain't in my area, been in the low 70's last 4 days. Couple cooler days wed/thurs in upper 50's then a couple days, fri/sat in the low 80's.
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Steve..good weather for this time of year...no snow here ...they have been showing the house a few time in 2017...must be a lot of looky loos..... Tom.. gonna unpack my tools and do what I need to do to get ready for motor installation .........
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Mike...Brackets on fire wall at indent is to bolt on flat bar stock to attach side panels, also for hinges for hood and also to stabilize the grille shell
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Glad to see that your back at it. your car is looking good
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Ed, I was about to give up the search for today and bingo! ;) Give me a call or PM me. (32 1/4" long)
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Ed, it's on it's way (thru the U.S. Post Office).
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Steve....Thanks a lot.....owe you a beer or a coke your choice......Lol will be looking for it...
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You bet Ed! No problem glad you could use it.
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Steve........I have the number written down and saved...You can delete Thanks
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THAT COKE YOUR OFFERING........IS IT DRINKING OR SNORTING ?????? 8)
MIKE 8)
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Ed, it's on it's way (thru the U.S. Post Office).
Great to see members helping each other ;)
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Tom....Sammons is a super guy, I too have helped out other by letting go of some of my spare '40 Ford pick up parts,that were useless to me.Again this is what makes this hobby enjoyable helping others.... as you also have done. Mike......only offering liquid coke that satisfys your thirst. Gonna show up at Sammons door step with a 6 pack of beer and a 6 pack of coke...that way he can choose.
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Tom....Sammons is a super guy, Gonna show up at Sammons door step with a 6 pack of beer and a 6 pack of coke...that way he can choose.
I hope to get to meet you guys in person some day. Whether he chooses the beer or Coca Cola, raise a glass for me while I'm shoveling 15 inches of snow!
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Crazy weather here....be careful up in the NE
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Tom....Sammons is a super guy, Gonna show up at Sammons door step with a 6 pack of beer and a 6 pack of coke...that way he can choose.
I hope to get to meet you guys in person some day. Whether he chooses the beer or Coca Cola, raise a glass for me while I'm shoveling 15 inches of snow!
Tom be careful shoveling all that snow, sitting here watching the news they just said this year is the 5th smallest amount of snow fall .07" 68 degrees for Sunday I see some garage time coming my way.
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Tom, that's what it's all about. I've given a lot of stuff away and have been given a lot.
Quick story- Back in 80-81, the ol boy that has our local salvage yard was always high priced to me. One day he stopped in the shop and and was in a bind needing ET Uni-Lug washers for a customers car. I asked what model car, he said 4.5" Mopar. I went to my bins and asked him how many, he said 8. I grabbed them and handed them over. He asks how much, I said nothing....just take them. He looked shocked, thanked me and left. The next time I needed ANY thing, I got a very good price from him. Been good friends ever since! Now a days he usualy says ah...$5 or just take it. ;)
Ed, it may be just a bit warmer here.
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Steve.....got the package...arrived in good shape ..good packaging.....piece is a lot better than mine...thanks
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Ed, your more than welcome. I tried to pack it so the yeah who's slinging packages around wouldn't bend it up.
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Motor on dyno for '33
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Cool Ed. Where did you have it dyno'd at and what numbers did she pull?
The last time I had the privalige was over at Steve Carbones shop in Tulsa. My buddy had him fresh'n up his 377 sbc for his '68 Z/28 drag car. Awsome sound in the room @9,200 rpm, and I stepped out @8,000. Can't imagine the mess if it let go! ;D
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Sounds nice and crisp ED ;D
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Looks like 350HP and 413 FP torque, is that right? Very nice.
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Yes....352 hp range and in the low 400 fp torque...
Steve had a well known engine builder in this area that does a lot of drag strip and roundy round motors ...Shinook Engine builders in Tahlequah Ok....was going to go with aluim. heads but decided against it...I am satisfied with the numbers...but not in my jingle account...but it's ready to run.....
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Ed my phone wouldn't load the movie but just seen your first pic. I think i've heard that name before, at least it sounds familiar. My little 301 might get close to that hp number if I wind it tight enough. ;D Uncle said they were turning them 9-9.5 at the dirt track in the early/mid 60's. :o
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Trying to get back on the '33...took 700R tranny to get rebuilt.. Then have to modify trans cross member...then might be able to install motor and trans ....if the wife doesn't have any more honey dos ..
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Looking forward to the updates :D
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Ed it's good to here your getting back to it, you should be real close to it moving around on it's own. :) Wish I was, thinking of moving my coupe down to the shop for long term storage till I get back on my feet . Keep at it man! :-\
Dang COE hood/grill got complicated, grill fit is done but having to build new hood edges and inner structure due to the thing being so split up and twisted out of shape everywhere.
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700r4 trans...cleaning it up a little...then remake and relocate trans cross member
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Getting g a few things done ..trans mount work and gonna join trans to motor...hope to have it installed by Wed. If all goes well....
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Go Ed Go! :D
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Finally some progress......had to refab trans mount for the 700r4...worked out perfect ...motor and trans fell into place....
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Fits like a glove! Looks great Ed!
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Nice fit, Ed, the steering too.
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Had these Ram Horn headers from a build that I didn't use ...so I put them on the '33...problem is now the spark plug wire holders don't bolt up to the valves covers as the ram horns are in the way...so I thought of mounting them like this....now I have to make sure the wires don't hit the headers and burn up...is there any kind of insulation that is available that will slip over the spark plug wires? Don't want any thing that wraps on the wire....and again I my not have an issue with hitting or being close to the headers ...what you think if the way its mounted?....might just change the wires out and route the wires differently and not use the holders
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I run mine behind the head then down below the rear exhaust port and come up to the plugs. Run the front two down next the oil pan and use the oil pan bolt with adel clamp to keep them away from the collector , then run the front two up thru and behind the engine mount. (Between the block and back of engine mount.) I try to hide as much wiring as I can. Hope I explained well enough. Ron
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Your engine looks real nice Ed. I've used both these Speedway spark plug wire insulators on various builds, especialy with headers.
Like Chevron said, run them underneath. The 60s stock Chevy routing, here is a pic. I've done this on most that I have stock type exhaust manifolds on and on my coupe as the sprint car headers pretty much go straight out for 10-12" before turning down.
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Thanks sammons, couldn't find a picture.
FATnLOW definitly nice looking engine. Ron
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Steve ...thanks for photos..Chevron...thanks for your input..just didn't want to can these wires yet .....wanna get it up and moving...I remember my 327 years ago had that wire set up. ...Thanks guys
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Here's the setup on my 34:
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Ordered a bunch of parts from Speedway ...ouch.. Thanks to Tom for the information he gave me saved me some big bucks. Gonna run the wires like this ..and see what happens
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That's a nice, clean look.
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Looking good Ed. Glad I could help.
Tom
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Ed, here are the pics. I couldn't load them to PM.
The 3w is my '35 ('34) Standard rear wheel well.
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Laid sound deadener down a lot more to do...
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Nice work Ed. What brand did you use?
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I used peel and seal...then will put a layer of the bubble insulation
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Looks good man! Every step is one step closer. Should be nice and quiet in there.
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Thanks guys... Using the peel and seal then bubble wrap , jute padding then carpet hope it's quite...and should help on cooling and heating....hope this will be the right combination....
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Installed bubble wrap on inside firewall...so I can get dash and column back in
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I used the peel & seal on my fire wall and floors and roof then put the bubble wrap over that on the roof and the jute on the fire wall and before I install my carpet I will lay down a layer of bubble wrap followed by jute insulation.
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Looks good Ed! Keep at her man. :D
Slow going here, welder broke. My buddy ordered my parts, then cat got bit by something. May have been a snake, bloody mess side of his jaw all swole out. Got welder put back together then I locked up. Everything is better now and back on the model A. ;D
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Post some pics of the A....glad you're doing better...slow here...still replacing fences still have 105 pickets to install after i get everything prepped....
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Fences are completed....trying to get back on the 33....got some different bucket seats....now have to figure a way to mount them...I made a mounting template out of wood to get front up a bit...still trying to get figure what I want...
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Nice look seats..what are they out of?
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Ed...they are from a 2006 Hyundai Tribron...2 door Sedan gave $20.00 for them
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I played around with shims and 2X4s until I felt comfortable with the position and angle. It's worth the time though as I'm real happy with the comfort of mine on a long ride. Make sure the adjustments a right so both you and the wife are comfortable.
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I used 2" X 1/8" flat band steel and formed two legs for each seat that bolted to the floor and are welded to the seat tracks.
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Ed glad the honey do's are done and your back on the 33. Those seats look comfy ;) Like Tom said, well worth the time to set up for a good comfortable fit now, your back will like it later! ;D
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Seat risers with under floor stiffing/mounting plates ...needs finishing and painting
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Nice fab work Ed! That should do it. ;)
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Nice fit Ed. Great job!
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Getting seats installed driver seat fits and feels really good.... colder than heck here garage heater but the dust....
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Brackets turned out nice Ed, seats looks comfortable. What, no console? ;) Haha I almost forgot how mine had room ;D
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No room for console i fabed..due to the 700R4 trans....need to plan another one???? But seat is comfy and sit right...best part easy to remove
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Trying to get things done ....installed radiator so I can put in top and bottom radiator hoses and figure out what I'm going to use in transmission lines. Thought about using the Teflon stuff with the braided wire outer covering
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Looking good Ed! Looks like your making progress anyway.
Hows your weather? We've been getting the warm/cold/warm thing here, 52 right now.
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for the tranny lines your going to want to run -6AN hose and hose ends........3/8" Just the rubber lined should be good braided stainless or the new black fabric covered hose. Talk to GODWIN ? to get right type. Teflon is for brakes.
You may want to consider running an inline cooler , the finned tube shape type in aluminum mounted to the side rails. Cuts down on the heat going into the radiator.
With that air con in front of radiator make sure you have a fan that can really pull air thru. Fan has to work 2 times as hard to draw thru 2 units.
mike lynch
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OK was in a discussion with a friend on in line trans cooler plumbing....I don't think there is one way to do it....what is the best way to route your trans lines....??? I was going to take the hot line to the radiator let the fluid go Thur the radiator cooler....exit radiator to frame mounted cooler then exit cooler to return side of transmission.....my friend was going to go thru cooler first then thru radiator ....exit radiator back to trans....any thoughts or opinions?????
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Well Ed, we all know excesive heat kills automatics. But when my buddy went to school in the mid 80's, he had a real good trans instructor (also a racer), and he taught use the extrrnal first then go through radiator. He said that under some instances the external cooler could be too cool for proper trans opperating temp. By running through radiator last it you would be asured a normal temp before returning to trans.
Danged if I know but it made sense to me and the man could build a killer trans that held up to abuse. ;D So i've always done it that way.
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I've read where it's a north/south thing...if you live in a consistently hot location you want the fluid entering the transmission cooled,,if you live in a consistently cold location you want the fluid entering the transmission warmed up ???
I do know the best external cooler is the stacked plate type.
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I've read where it's a north/south thing...if you live in a consistently hot location you want the fluid entering the transmission cooled,,if you live in a consistently cold location you want the fluid entering the transmission warmed up ???
I do know the best external cooler is the stacked plate type.
That makes sense, with most people putting up their rides for the winter. I usually ran (or use to) year round. Maybe that was what he ment about "some instances". Summer only or warmer winter areas you go thru radiator first.
Agree on stack plate coolers, I always use Tru-cool. They had several gvw ratings available.
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OK was in a discussion with a friend on in line trans cooler plumbing....I don't think there is one way to do it....what is the best way to route your trans lines....??? I was going to take the hot line to the radiator let the fluid go Thur the radiator cooler....exit radiator to frame mounted cooler then exit cooler to return side of transmission.....my friend was going to go thru cooler first then thru radiator ....exit radiator back to trans....any thoughts or opinions?????
By using the heat conductor aluminum HEAT SINK is what they are called and running hot trans fluid thru it first you want to reduce the amount of cooling your radiator has to do to lower the temperature. Anything you can do to lower water temps is good for the cooling system and the trans. After a long discussion with a couple of really smart guys I know , it was determined going thru the HEAT SINK first was the best option.
I noticed you have an air con condenser in front of rad, theres a lot of heat being put thru the radiator with air con. You really have to have a super fan that really can draw air thru the rad. Me, I run a belt driven 6 blade deep pitch steel fan. When a cloth diaper can be held to the grill of a 33--35 chevy with 350 SBC at IDLE, you know your not going to have trouble.
mike lynch my 2 cents canadian
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Trying to get fired back up ordered my Cooling Components 1750 Fan / Shroud unit..Heat Sink Transmission Cooler and a bunch of other little parts today.....got all radiator hoses installed....worked on head light bucket welded a washer in the old existing light hole to accept headlight wire conduit...gauges all wired with weather pack conectors and electrical terminal strip ...still a bunch of work to do...but still enjoy it...
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Sounds like you're making some progress. Nice ;D
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Ed, sounds like your getting fired up. (wish I was) ;) 38 days to spring! I really like those Weather Pack connectors, just wish they were cheaper. Keep at it man!
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Steve.... on the weather packs..I have found a source here that deals in truck parts and sell their weather pack cheap....I believe I gave $4.50 for a 4 plug set up versus the $11.99 that Speedway wants....when your ready let me know and I'll pick some up for you...need to get more..went there last week needed 3 wire ones ...and they were out of them.....been colder here than I like but try to get out there when I can
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Thanks Ed, half price is a great deal. I like putting them on the dash cluster and any place that I may need to accsess to work on it or something else. Many years ago I found a source for firewall bulk head connectors, but have no memory of where now :(
Its 9° here right now with a skiff of snow blowing around.
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Steve.... on the weather packs..I have found a source here that deals in truck parts and sell their weather pack cheap....I believe I gave $4.50 for a 4 plug set up versus the $11.99 that Speedway wants....when your ready let me know and I'll pick some up for you...need to get more..went there last week needed 3 wire ones ...and they were out of them.....been colder here than I like but try to get out there when I can
If you have a good link let me know...I'll list it below. I often find good deals on eBay for single WeatherPack connectors. We have this business link below:
http://www.repairconnector.com/search.php?search_query=weatherpack
If you type in "waterproof connectors" on eBay you can locate a bunch. I even bought a couple of different wire connector crimper sets.
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Ed...this is just a little independent store that does custom beds like putting on flat beds on new and used trucks and such...looked at your link looks like prices are reasonable......
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Getting things done slowly....lucky I found all my grille parts...Installed Steve Sammons. '35 Chevy center grille strip. (Thanks again Steve) onto the grille....just trying to get car out together and paint later on...hopefully
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Radiator in with cooling fan.....
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Wow looking good Ed. One step closer!
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I love it when they start to come together. nice
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I'm glad that you could use it Ed. It was just collecting dust and I would probalbly have lost it in the move :D
Great to see it coming together and it looks like you will be running soon!
Have you been getting any of these warm temps yet? (forecast 75° today here) ;D
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Trying to get it all together...temps been up and down. 75 one day then 40's the next but having some decent days to work on the '33
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Took a ride....while it was being pushed to turn it around
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Won't be too long before you get to do that under it's own power :D
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Wired up and fired the '33 up today..next doing brakes then off to the muffler shop.Had a few hiccups while trying to start it but overcame them...one thing no leaks of any fluids ...hate leaks
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That's great FATnLOW! Make sure you get a door, or two on there before you take it for a shake-down....or at least strap yourself in!
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It's going to be a fun summer for you. 8)
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Congratulation on your progress its a great feeling when you give it life Have some fun now
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Nice work Ed!
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Got brakes .....still working on a few things before exhaust work.....getting really close...
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Go man go! :D Dang Ed, your getting real close. Keep at it, looking real good! :)
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Pulled fenders and tires off to make it easier to bleed front brakes....Wilwood 4 piston calipers what a pain...hands gets tired from vacuum gauge pumping...funny how you put parts/ items on then later take them off and put them back on again......had to remake brake switch bracket made it more adjustable..
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Great job Ed, keep at it!
Tom
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Drove the '33. out of the garage....exhaust system tomorrow can't make my mind up flowmasters or glass packs. Might get muffler man see what he recommends...don't want that roaring noise in the cab area....
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Very cool! Congrats!
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That's great! Good luck!! (I like flowmasters :))
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Exhaust done ...Went with 22" glass packs ....now going to work on original rear fenders....and a little more body work. Install glass and get it on the road...
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exhaust tips look good nice and tight
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Need a video of how those glass packs sound!
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What I can see looks great! ;)
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Rear fender work...took fenders down to a friend of ours he worked the tail end and center part....last 2 photos getting to fit tail pan better
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Wow Ed those look great! He did some nice work for you ;)
Tom
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Wow, that RR rear fender had been beat up real good. Your friend is making a great save. Careful metal thickness is not reduced to un-workable.
Looks so much better than the way to wide glass fender.
Rather than applying bondo over top to finish , you could go old school with lead. EASTWOOD sells kits to do it.
mike lynch
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Looking good Ed! Man those fenders were really messed up.
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They look better when they are metal worked. Nice job
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A hammer, a dolly, and some good music! They look great!
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Driver side fender...needing repair
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Straighten drivers side fender.....by a friend my wife calls a wizard
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Nice save Ed, looking good.
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fender is getting there, good work so far. Getting the break in the side bead done right , is critical to strength of the repair. Make sure metal doesn't get thin and unworkable.
Good to see pictures of a repair sequence .
mike lynch
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Installed trans mount E Brake....I like the location and size of unit...
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Ed nice work on that drivers side fender :D
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Did a little work on the fender.... Worked the fender on the car.....still have to make a fender brace before continuing on....
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Looking good Ed. One step closer! ;)
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Getting the fit between fenders to tail pan closer..
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Looking good! Keep at it. A little fiberglass work may be in order.
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Same setup as on my 33 (back in storage)...even the tail pipe extensions look the same. Those are chrome Harley tips on mine.
Will need to brace up the center of the tail-pan...it has a lot of flex.
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Looks like its coming together nicely
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Nice work ED. Apron and fenders are looking good!
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Really nice work Ed.
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Thanks for the kind words ..been doing all of the body work by hand...need to run power to my compressor so I can use my air tools .....
Got to make mounting holes for tail light stand on the passenger fender..I figured I would make a template from the drivers side and flip it over for the passenger side....any better suggestions?? Got my LED tail lights in and look great and the fit is perfect on Chevi-shop (Greg Coleman's) tail light stand that he makes.
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1st coat of primer....one of many still have some imperfections....
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That is closer to perfect the anything I own! :)
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1st coat of primer....one of many still have some imperfections....
A little guide coat and more blocking you gotta love it ;)
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1st coat of primer....one of many still have some imperfections....
[/quote
Not bad, stay at it, you'll be happy when the finish coat goes on.
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Installed fenders .....gonna wait on more fender body work....but making a little progress
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Very nice! There are a lot of curves coming together along those clean lines. Good work.
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They look good!! I'd rather do bodywork on a curved fender than a flat fender any day!
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They are looking good coming together nicely
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looks good , real clean
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Looking good Ed! Your really getting closer.
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Long time coming to this point....installed fenders and head lights..
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Man your motoring right along Ed. Its really coming along nice! Hope your having cooler weather there, @ 2 o'clock it was already 97 here.
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Steve been hot here also.....94 here says feels like 98..,hot and humid from the storm last night ....I usually try to get out in the garage about 7:30 am and work untill noon or 1 pm....so how have you been?? Been doing any body work on the model A ? Remember to stop by if your in my neck of the woods
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Ed I'm on hold on the Model A, waiting for him to either let go of some cash to get these rusty parts blasted or soak the rust off before I start assembling. I'm not touching the door patchs till then, he was talking about building a tank and using wood bleach?
I've been straightning on a 74 Nova last week and a half. Just like you, going in at 6:30- 7 in the morn and heading home just before noon ;D Been too broke to go any further than the shop, but when I get down that way I will give you a holler.
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Wheels and tires next ....glass ready Thursday
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That's looking good 8) . So jealous.
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Dang Ed, you have a car ;D Nice work!
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Nice, another 33 Chevy soon to be on the road! Welcome to the club ;D
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Another beautiful sedan hitting the road. Nice job.
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Really nice job. 8)
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Very nice its coming together nicely
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That looks awesome!!! Lets go for a ride!!!!
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Received the front wheels today😀...can't wait to put them on...
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Received the front wheels today😀...can't wait to put them on...
Those spoke mags never go out of style for me! Look Great..
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Those look good Ed. I can't tell by the pic, are they aluminum?
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Great choice ED! Can't wait to see them on the car.
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Steve.....one piece cast aluminum alloy...got them thru Jegs
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That's a nice choice, I'm looking a some US Mags U110
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They look great and will look better on the car ;)
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Wheels and tires on....had to install shorter tire on rear due to the 4 wd rear end..and then too no weight in the back... gas tank not ful,l no back seat and no interior ,so I tried to compensate for the future added weight..... P.
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Sits good Ed, nice and level. Congrats on the drive, it's gotta feel good ;)
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Looks great nice stance
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Sits just right Ed. Sweet ride!
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WOW! That's really looking good.
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That sits great FATnLOW and those wheels are perfect. You have to be psyched!!
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Got my honey dos finished for a while .....Front glass installed...rear glass needs a little trimming due to steel that was welded in is a tiny bit too high....also made an oak header....what a chore
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34 master dash with glove box looks real good in there.
Believe I & I repo makes the glove box cardboard part
mike lynch
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Ed, looks like you got a nice fit on the windshield. One step closer :)
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Got the rear glass back , installed it, took off to a local car gathering last night .'33 is running good...
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the 33 has some nice body lines
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Ed, congrats on the drive. Looking good man! :)
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Awesome looking Chevy! All the hard work paid off :D
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Man that car looks gangster. Nice job
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Had a set of mirrors that I was going to install on the '33 but couldn't see anything behind me...so to compensate for the wedge design on the '33 i bought these mirrors, now I can see what's behind me
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Had a set of mirrors that I was going to install on the '33 but couldn't see anything behind me...so to compensate for the wedge design on the '33 i bought these mirrors, now I can see what's behind me
That'll work!
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That gets them out there far enough
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Looks good Ed. I wondered about short mirrors seeing around those wedge shaped bodys. I hope my wider front body eliminates that problem as I went ahead and bought the short arm mirrors.
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Steve..I don't think you'll have trouble with mirrors on your coupe...I tried 4" long mirrors and all could see was the B pillar. ..also had door clamp on peep mirrors on with no luck, I estimated they needed to 6+ inches to see the rear...at least with these i have a clear view to the rear.... Side note going to Branson to take in a couple of shows and get away....Photo of mirrors i tried left over from 40 Ford build
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Ed, i've been having a hard time finding a ride down to Branson to see mom. Had a buddy that was going to give me a ride maybe this week, but he sold a '67 Chevelle so he has to deliver it instead.
I really enjoyed the cave tours @ Silverdollar City years ago. Now I just like the craftsman carving or the blacksmiths. When my grandparents moved down there in the early '70s it was still quite small with only 3-4 shows. South of Branson there was the School of the Ozarks museum, in the 80s dad and I spent half a day looking at the large gun collection they had. It got robbed a year after we were there and a lot was stolen. Hope your wife and you have a good time!
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A shot in the dark...but does anyone have a photo of a rear view mirror for a '33 Chevy Master...I have one that was in the car and in the process of de-rusting it and going to get a mirror cut for it.thought I would ask for a photo for comparison
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I cannot believe I do not have a picture of a 1933--1935 Chevrolet closed car rear view mirror in my files. Even internet search could not bring one up, nor ebay.
I have an extra somewhere, if nobody else helps you out, will find it and take picture of it. Am on road to USA first thing in morning to load my S10 in Rochester NY with all my ebay purchases ( 24 ) since april. Open Chevrolet .: roadsters and touring's use diff mirrors.
The original colour of the metal was a caramel brown.
mike lynch
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My mirror need new glass cut...
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that mirror bracket is not original for a 1933 Chevrolet FISHER BODY closed car.
That shown style is used on open cars usually with a stem wind or electric clock.
mike
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Ok.....thanks Mike..I like the looks of this mirror and this was removed from the car when we got it and stored until I came across it the other day. Going to get mirror cut for it ....i like the size 7" long should work well
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the clock mirrors that I have are 7 inches long in both the open cars and my coupe closed car.
Actually you can find a clock mirror repo for model A fords 1928-31 and 32--36 's at a very reasonable price on ebay. I enjoy winding mine and setting correct time every time I take one of them out.
mike
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Been chasing gremlins ....had too readjust carb floats...and doing interior insulation first laid down peel and seal for sound deadening then used bubble wrap on top of that.....then topped it off with a radiant barrier called UltraTouch a 3/8" "blanket" type material. hopefully all of this will keep heat out and cold in also deaden the sound....then all of this get topped off with interior carpet
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Looks good FATnLOW. I almost want to say overkill, but I only used peel and seal and it's a little noisy and warm, so I think you are right on target.
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Gonna try to make some door panels and rear window and other panels.....made a pattern today...then will transfer the pattern to the ABS sheet material
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Nice Ed. Can't wait to see how they turn out!
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Have fun and good luck!! Lots of pictures, lots of pictures!
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Door panel build...a little trimming in some spots...then apply Velcro strips to hold in place....hoping Velcro will hold like the old Rod Doors used to use..
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Looks great Ed. Hopefully the Velcro holds.
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Looks good Ed. Are you going to just leave it black, paint it or glue upholstery to it?
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Steve...plans are to upholstery with Ultra Leather, with some kind of design and inset .... Using two colors that go together...I have a picture as to what I want.Will post when I find it
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couldn't find photo of door panels but possibly colors something like this...still along way from this point
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Cool, that should work. Have a good Turkeyday Ed!
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Well Velcro doesn't work as I thought it would..sticks well to the plastic but not well at all on wood or steel...changed up fastners...
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Too bad the velcro didn't hold. Nothing wrong with trim screws, easy to use and they don't break off R&R the panels ;)
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Screws look just fine. For what it's worth, I used newer style door panel clips. The heads get covered over by whatever you use for upholstery.
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Too bad the velcro didn't hold. Nothing wrong with trim screws, easy to use and they don't break off R&R the panels ;)
The way around the non stick Velcro too wood , would be to nail or small screw a material that the velcro will stick to , in the correct locations. Problem solved ???
mike lynch
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Thoughts on this. EFI...https://www.speedwaymotors.com/FiTech-30003-Go-Street-400-HP-Throttle-Body-EFI-Kit,251749.html
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I'll let you know. I ordered this one. Should be in sometime next week. Everyone I spoke to that has one was very happy with it.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/fif-38003 (https://www.summitracing.com/parts/fif-38003)
Munch installed the one you're looking at.
Tom
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Thanks..keep me updated....and I will get in touch with munch....I see that this one does not require a fuel return line and is good for the 150-400 HP range.....
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Doesn't require the return line to the fuel tank but make sure you have room for the Fuel Command Center that you'll have to mount in your engine compartment. I've attached the instructions below.
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Tom .. If you run a fuel command center.... you need to put it somewhere cool. These things are notorious for boiling fuel. With it being in the engine compartment plus the short run from throttle body to command center the fuel heats up. I had that problem on the first one I did . Ended up running return line. Just a FYI.. Ron
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I looked at the 3 different ways to install the FITech in my 33 and decided on using the in tank pump. I spoke with quite a few guys that installed it on their rides and all were happy with it. The main reason I went with the in tank pump is noise. With a topless car I was worried that the noise from the fuel pump would bother me. I spoke with @Munch on here who installed an external pump in his sedan and he said the pump wasn't that loud. I did't pick the Fuel Command Center as my engine compartment just didn't have the room.
Tom
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Yep. That's the best way. In tank pumps are pretty quiet. Usually with the engine running you barely hear it. Ron.
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Appears that the "fuel command center" works similar to the system in a diesel...the diesel low pressure "lift pump" delivers fuel up to the engines "injection pump". In a carb'd engine the original low pressure fuel pump just delivers fuel to the fuel command center.
The diesel engines in my mid 90's GM trucks had a fuel return lines that were plugged and not used and I noticed that the lift pump was located in the exact same location as the metal fuel filter would be on a gas engine. Figure GM just ran both supply and return lines just to keep things simple and could be adapted on the assembly line for either a gas or diesel engine.
When I do my TPI and LT1 EFI conversions I learned to use only ACDelco inline pumps, the other aftermarket units are noisy. Just try to mount the pump on some rubber and if possible close and lower than the tank. Prefer the in tank pumps..best way to go.
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Just an FYI. The FITech 38003 with the in tank fuel pump is back ordered until March 8. The one with the external fuel pump is available now. Guess it'll be a while before I can post any updates. >:(
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Ok thanks for the heads up...I am still researching and getting educated on this project..
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Follow up Posting on roll pan...still needs work...
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Nice work Ed! Looks great!
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Looks like you have it fitting good, now the fun stuff. Keep at it! 👍
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Thought it was close but still needs more work ...first coat of primer showed me where attention is needed..... :-\ oh well nothing but more time
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Ed, your getting there. Your never sure till that fist coat goes on. At least you know where the attention is needed. ;)
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Two thumbs up ;D
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Next project..one of many...bodywork done..
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Looks great! Will look even better in the car ;D
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Lookin good Ed! Where are you putting the cupholders at? I still haven't figured that out yet on mine. Because my Vette console is extended in the back, i was thinking i might do something there.
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Steve... Bought some foldable cup holders that I will mount somewhere below the wing window handle on the door panel....keep them out of the way so I can access the window and wing handles....I have spray dyed them the same color as the door pull/arm rest...photo of cup holders left one folded as it would be on door panel and other unfolded and ready for use
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2nd time around for paint...
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Looks great Ed!
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Nice simple look, not simple to achieve. :)
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Very nice! Can't wait to see how it looks in the 33 :D
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very nice I might steal your ideal if that's OK
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very nice I might steal your ideal if that's OK
Thanks guys....simple way for a/c vents and stereo stereo is bluetooth...and has a back up camera ......62131 this give you more room to mount items rather than drilling into the dash....I would love to see what you come up with if you decide to build one
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That looks great! It will be perfect in the car.
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Quick test of toggle switch activation for back up camera....works just fine...for a unit under $40.00
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Pretty cool Ed. What brand is that?
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stereo and back up camera all in one very nice how small is the camera
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Sammons...some little cheap thing from China.... 62131.... Measures 7/8" square . ..not bad for stereo...camera...mp player and blue tooth Installed a 1/8x1.5 piece of Steel between gas tank straps bolts to mount the camera
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That's pretty trick, you can't beat it.
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Nice wood work on the console. Looks great!
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Kicking around the idea of converting the '33 to a sedan delivery 😃 but was wondering about the what ifs when it was time to sell it ...how would other people react when looking to buy a bowtie... Thoughts.... Something like I did to this model A....
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I'd say if you like it that way... go for it! I always liked delivery's, only had 2 (56-57 Chevy's). You sure don't see them too often. My buddy Tom was looking into building a 34 chevy glass body kit several years ago.
I just hope the resale market is still there next year. Gonna be some real good buys in several months if this crap don't blow over by then.
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Ghost28 did that with a couple of his builds. Looked cool to me!
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I'm with Sammons, do what you like. What if you don't sell? Or, it might be something the next owner appreciates.
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Kicking around the idea of converting the '33 to a sedan delivery 😃 but was wondering about the what ifs when it was time to sell it ...how would other people react when looking to buy a bowtie... Thoughts.... Something like I did to this model A....
Was just looking thru my Canada models built for 1933 masters. We did not make any here ( canada ) in 1933, so your building a rare car if you convert into a SDL. Not sure where to find production numbers for the USA built 33 master SDL. The Chevrolet model number is 177 has a FISHER BODY code of 33-370 .
Trick to making a 2 dr sedan into a sedan delivery is the rear hinges. I would think a pair of drivers side door hinges should work to allow the swing of the door to operate properly. I hope your skilled at wood and metal work because its a large project that can go wrong quickly .
mike lynch HAIRBALL
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just went searching google for pictures of 1933 chev SDL.....now I remember, its a 1932 carried over to create a 1933.
So if you built created a 33 sedan delivery using a 1933 master 2 door sedan, you would have a ONE OF ONE, one off PHANTOM.
here is what I found on google
mike lynch
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There are only two ways to build a car. #1. Build what makes you happy. #2. Build what makes someone else happy. Sometimes it's the same. From the quality of work you do I am sure that what makes you happy someone else will be happy to buy. Go for it!
My only sedan delivery was a '40 Ford Deluxe. I wish I had kept that one. I sold it to Art Himsl for $125.
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^^^^^^^Yep, i agree. 99% of my cars i built my way, I never listened to "well you should do this" or "Well I wouldn't do that". I built them for me, they way i liked it. As soon as the car was done, everybody and their buddy would try to buy it. Dad always told me to quit falling in love with a damned car and sell when ever good money was offered.
Well when something else came along i had to have, i would then sell it. Never had a problem unloading them.
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on the TERMITES AND BOWTIES site page 101 there is a guy in new Zealand doing exactly what your talking about..........convert 4 dr sedan to sedan delivery. that's right 4 door as base donor body. Crazy amount of work but rear looks great
https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/termites-and-bowties-early-chevy-group.323303/page-101
mike lynch
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Conned the wife in making welting for dash to console there was a gap between the console and bottom of the dash...she did a good job.. Might hire her to do more work...
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wifey does excellent work, barely know its even there , the welting.
34 master dash panel looks good in the 33. Do you have the 3 center bars not shown , just the holes.
mike HAIRBALL
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Yes she does good work...I have the center bars for the dash...got them from Sammons....
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Great idea with the welting and a great job too!
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Nice work by the wife!
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Thanks guys...I sure like the color of the welting...had this material along time was for another project ,but need to find more of this stuff..complements the color of the console
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Ed looks great! Yep, the wife is pretty handy there😁
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Took fender off to remove 2 broken bolts on fender for front splash apron ..got lucky and got them drilled out and easy out the rest of the way..
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Got the " might as well" going on while I have the fender off might as well try to get a better gap and line up the body line a little better, I removed pads on body mount bolts and improved door closing but a little on the gap and body line...came to the conclusion this is the best it gets...probably a factory flaw...
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It doesn't look so bad to me. You may be your own worst critic, remember this is 95 year old steel, it's been through a lot! ;)
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And it continues. Fixed lower cowl that was dented up.....dented photo is drivers side pass side was the worse condition
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the GAP is what it is , as long as its reasonably consistent front and rear of the door. The body line can be adjusted up and down on the rear edge of the door by adding to or taking away shims to raise or lower the door to match with the body line, you can have it perfect, takes patience.
Generally if you have larger gap on rear door edge, it can be closed up by inserting shims between the metal frame and the wood sills , and I think the 2nd or 3rd body mount. Same process as lining up the body line.
A fisher body repair manual 1929--1935 explains how to do it. The bottom rear corner of the door can be pulled inwards if needed by turning the turnbuckle assembly inside the door.
mike lynch.......... HAIRBALL
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Ed, sometimes it just is what it is unless you want to get in deep! Factory had a lot of flaws. I was explaining that to my friend with the '70 k10 pickup lines on his son's truck. When i did his i got all lined up well, his son's has cab flaws on door openings when welded together at factory.
Looking good anyway, better than a lot of others. 🙂
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And more body work.....I need a Sammons here....this was a little job but needed done...took dents out.a little filler,sanded and I said done....don't know why both bottoms of cowl were in bad shape...only thing I could come up with was it was attached to wood and wood decayed and some ripped the wood off
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Looking at passenger door in order to get it right both hinges need to go up about 3/16" . ...not feeling like I should do that so ...it is what it is....but door close and opens a whole lot better....
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Ed, sure glad i had my cowl/body up on my table when i straightened the lower cowl lip on mine, that made it easy 😁 Nowdays i get dizzy bent over to straighten that stuff ;)
Dumb question, probabley shouldn't even ask if your hinge pins and bushings good? Yeah, slap me on the head now😁
*** Went back and looked, slap me twice! Should have finished my coffee first. :D I see you were talking about the whole hinge. Lol, have a good day man! I'll shut up now😁
Looks like you are getting closer all the time.
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Yes lay down and work the dents out....but I asked my self how do you hammer and dolly that when you have to hammer next to the frame???? I thought I need to squeeze it straight and squeeze the dents either in or out...so I come up with using my 4" C clamp and a strip of 3/8" thick strip of steel. ..amazed how I was able to muscle the dents the way it needed to go...
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However you did it, it turned out pretty darn good.
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Nice work Ed!
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Man you have come along nicely.
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Man you must be livin right! 👍 Looks like you found a nice one even. One step closer Ed. 😁
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Looks good and fit right in there nice.
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Installing electric cowl vent actuator...can't post the video of the opening of vent can't convert img mp4 to not format....next to straighten and wire tie and loom wiring
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Looking nice FATnLOW! Had the similar problem with my conversion with my video files! Your best bet is to create a YouTube with your video files then post the link! It’s pretty easy but first you need to setup a google account then your able to create a YouTube video link! RoarsRods
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Need Sammons....primered all door and windshield garnish mouldings...bought some primer for the old 40 Ford that I had...the can said Dark Grey....but was mislabeled ?? Black.... Used it anyway...should darken top coat a bit???..................Before and after
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nice 1934 Chevrolet master series dash panel. Bolts right into 34-35 standard and also 33 master.
The 33 master gauge black photo etched panel will fit the 34 master 3 gauge insert, needs to be trimmed to fit.
Just spent last 2 days modifying mine for the 34 chev std roadster. I cut the top molding metal area out and made real walnut insert to fit into it. Took a piece of 1/4" thick 6061T6 aluminum to make it accept 6 classic instruments : tach and speedo 3 3/8 mounted at each end, and 2 1/8 oil pressure , water temps , volts , gasoline are clustered in the middle. A different take on the usual. I also have a classic 3 3/8" electric clock I will install in the glove box door.
mike lynch...........HAIRBALL
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Hey Ed, looking like your getting more done. Need help with something?
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Steve....had a heck of a time😠 was suppose to be dark grey primer...mixed my primer up loaded in gun...wouldn't shoot....disassemble and clean gun out ..spayed a little bit....got my other gun....cleaned it before putting primer in....worked fairly well.... 1 hour job took 3 hrs......you think that black primer will darken my top coat ( sand is the name of it)...a Honda color...in single stage???....
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Had to do that...."stop and clean" the primer gun myself several weeks ago😁 My favorite color of primer was dark gray, just not quite that dark. The only time I ever had coverage problems was with translucent metalics with the darker primer. If you are running single stage acrylic enamel or urethane it should cover easy without being darker than the rest with that Sand color. Its probably a high solids color. (Unless its really thin stuff)
We didn't start sealing cars till '79, told dad it was good insurance😁 I used the premix Ditzler 1970 Sealer, great stuff back in the day. You shot what you needed and poured what you didn't use back in the can, no waste like the 2 part crap they came out with later.
You could seal it with a light gray sealer. I've seen some in a rattle can, but can't vouch for how it works. I don't think you'll have a problem with it the way it is. ;)
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Gonna shoot small piece first ,check color against my welting and console color...then go from there....
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Spayed my parts today I sure like this single stage paint....I believe it will holdup really good for interior painted parts
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question, picture #2 lower one, there is a hole just below the wood grain inset.........whats it going to be used for.
Oh looks real nice in tan shade.
mike
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Looks nice Ed 8)
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.mike...headlight switch
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Looks good Ed! Did the tan cover the dark primer ok or did you have to put a lighter gray down first?
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That looks real nice, how did it match the welting?
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Steve....stayed with the black primer... Wet sanded all parts...cleaned parts ..no tack rag...no sealer....I was super impressed with this single stage paint...covered really well....I think the black made it for these old eyes to really see as it laid down.... Chopper....the welting is just a a shade darker...but it compliments the dash well...I like it...and the wife likes it
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very nice
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Steve....stayed with the black primer... Wet sanded all parts...cleaned parts ..no tack rag...no sealer....I was super impressed with this single stage paint...covered really well....I think the black made it for these old eyes to really see as it laid down.... Chopper....the welting is just a a shade darker...but it compliments the dash well...I like it...and the wife likes it
The wife likes it......very important ;)
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Putting it back together...finished hooking everything up and got lucky no scratches I was very careful doing this....
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Two thumbs up!!
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Ed, dash looks great! That storm came thru here a day earlier, watched it develop coming across souther Colo and up from the panhandle. Only a couple small touch and go twisters in this area. .86 rain and 30mins of dime size hail.
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Went for shakedown ride on the electrical work..all good....
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the sedan is looking good
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Coming together Ed! Lookin' good!
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fat & low, I see you have a 34 master dash panel in your car. Do you or anybody else reading this have one in bad shape.
The glove box latch.........the spring loaded part , the glove box lid contacts.
Need one
mike
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Mike...no this is the only one I have...it was all day intact...but had to weld round hinge bar part back together
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okay thank you for the response
mike............hairball
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Installed console....still undecided of console color..I was thinking if console was the same color as the dash it might be too much of the same color...Thoughts???
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could be done same colour in leather of vinyl or suede ? Paint can match but ,materials can be close . Thinking about it, a suede would be nice .
Or what is material colour for seating and door panels ?
colour.....canadian spelling
mike
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You could have the face the same color as the dash and the sides the same color as the carpet. That would break it up a bit.
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I don't see everything being the same color as a problem. I think it will flow nicely.
Color........American spelling ::)
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Gonna start on the hood....been doing projects around the house
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Looks to be in pretty good shape to start with.
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Yes good shape a few dents ,paint chips with metal showing thru..im removing paint on chrome strip on top to check it's condition.what I've seen so far looks good no pitting or scratches
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I believe I'll use this chrome piece as is no pitting or flaking....
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Have you decided on a color for the 33?
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Yes...Cajun Red is one of the names ..a color also on the new GMC Arcadia...but with modifications more pearl, silver flakes and a tad of gold flakes..discussed this with the paint shop and I told them we needed to make it pop a little and that what they suggested....the Red hood kinda sealed the color choice
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A deep red is a classy color on a classy car, which you have. It doesn't need anything fancy. A lot of nice cars' looks are spoiled by the wrong paint.
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I like that cajun red, it's not too flashy or fiery. It looks deep, almost with a hint of purple in it. Nice!
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Found this photo taken after the wife took the motor out
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Great choice! Looking forward to seeing it in color.
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Found this photo taken after the wife took the motor out
Wait?! Your wife took the motor out?! She's a keeper! That car has come a long way, hasn't it?
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My wife has taken a few cars apart but she never used any tools to do it. ::)
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I have often said, if I ever am able to switch bodies with a woman, one of the first things I would do is learn how to drive. ;D ;D
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^^^^^ ;D ;D ;D ;D
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Joking aside my wife is a really good driver. She is the best 4x4 pilot I know in deep snow and mud. The wrecks were not her fault. She just happened to be there. She did put our Cherokee on it's side once but no one could have done it more gracefully. :)
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like the red going to shoot the paint on a friends truck, he's chose Radiant Red a Honda color
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Any have a sure fire way of removing the rod on the side panel of the hood that connects the side to the top....without using heat....last one I did was by heat, WD40 and hammering rod out...
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Ed I didn't need head on mine, just some Liquid Wrench and a drive punch same diameter as the rod and a hammer. If paint got in there could you put a little thinner along the hinge to loosen it?
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T FOCH is 100% correct. Use liquid wrench or some other rust buster nut loosener spray and really soak it many times over a day. Then use a NON tapered drift same size as the rod you want out, using a light hammer tap tap tap it.
Now if you can have a helper grab the other end with vice grips , have them twist rod while your tapping at it. Combined should ease the removal significantly.
Next when putting it back together use 3/16 " STAINLESSS STEEL rod. You will never have stuck hood side rods again. Use some kind of belt sander or grinder stone to gently round over the one end for going back in. Gently tap tap tsp to insert.
To seperate the top panels drill out the rivets and use 10/32 button head allen heads and nylocks with stainless washers. Just snug the bolts not tight , you will distort the panel at the joint
mike lynch
HAIRBALL
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I used the same process as Mike except after I clamped on the vise grips oldest pair I had I twisted and taped them with a hammer to remove no help available
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Alright...liquid wrench I had not thought of that...and going back with stainless rod.....all are awesome ideas...Thank guys....
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just thought of it, after using non pointed drift to start the process of moving the rusted rod, you can only go a short distance.
If memory serves me correctly, as i also was working alone, i clamped vice grips on end and tapped the vice grips while twisting.
Figure on vice grips coming off 3-4 times and chewing up the rod.
mike
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Made another buck to stabilize the hood while soaking the side
rods so I can disassemble hood...using liquid wrench to try free the rods..so far no luck in moving it so I will let it sit and periodically shoot the liquid wrench to it
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keep soaking it. For mental comfort have friend hold it. Use body dolly on rod and whack it hard to start the loosening process. Body dolly bigger target than 3/16 rod end and allows more force to be used.
Have a friend operate the vice grips twisting.
mike
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Time and a lot of patience along with liquid wrench ..finally got it apart without any damage to the hood or me...
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Awesome. Patience is tough to come by sometimes!
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Someone suggested this after I removed the rods
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A machinist friend of mine used to recommend this.
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its all the same product does the same thing. Depending on which store you walk into to buy the product.
Now find some 3 / 16 stainless steel rods and never have a problem again..
If re-painting the hood, make sure you super clean it so none of the rust buster liquid remains, otherwise look for painting problems.
mike.....HAIRBALL
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i lightly oiled mine and put them in
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When I worked at Carquest I discovered Knocker Loose. It is definitely not the same as the rest and is the best commercial penetrating oil I have used. What I use now is a 50/50 mixture of ATF and acetone or paint thinner. The ATF doesn't need to be new. It's way cheaper than the rest.
What ever you use the main ingredient is the necessary amount of time and patients, not often a 50/50 mix. ;D
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Nice day to primer..
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I liked it better red. ::) It looks nice and straight. These old hoods can be difficult.
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Ed doing a great job! Oh I also like the red color! Just found Stainless Steel hood hinges and other hood parts and hardware for your 33 Chevrolet! Here’s the link:
http://www.rootlieb.com/hood-hardware.html
RoarsRods
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Did not remove the doors.pain in the butt to put together..Will take apart for paint...now more sanding
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Those little springs will bite you if your not careful
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Primer on sand and fix imperpections....then sand again....gives you time to think and ponder the outcome
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Primer on sand and fix imperpections....then sand again....gives you time to think and ponder the outcome
And do it all one more time
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Better to do it right the first time!
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I like doing it 3 times to make sure its flat and straight. after the third time its ready to paint
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Primer on sand and fix imperpections....then sand again....gives you time to think and ponder the outcome
FATnLOW, seems to me you should be pondering perfection, they'll turn out great...….just keep sanding ;)
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Couldn't find hood handles for the hood,checked with I and I and Filling Station...got a set for '36-39 Chevy from I and I..but had to modify with a spacer
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I have a set of originals.your welcome to them if i can find them
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Nice work on those handles. You'll have to show us when you have them mounted.
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Simple Handle mod...went to Lowe's found .505 x 3/4 x 1/8 nylon washer that fit the bill....
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Looks good Ed. Nice work!
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ED if don't care post the part number, i can use them on both my cars
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62131..... This is the nylon washers I used
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Thanks Ed
I'll pick them up next time in Lowes
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Good job Ed! I have a hood that I was told is a '32 from the swap meet guy I bought it from. It looks like yours. I planned to cut down the sides for my '26 roadster because I like the doors and the louvers on my stock hood are pretty messed up.
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gonna get holders yet .... Still need to weld on steel for the sides....
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every car needs a cup holder, the early thirty cars just don't have the room and you have to be creative
to find a place to have one
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Yes no room... figured this was the best location gotta have them...better than bolting one in the door.
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Great idea! :D
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Great idea! Am mounting two cup holders on my bench seat arm rest! Had a cool under the bench seat cup holders but wouldn’t work with the flip bench seat for storage! RoarsRods
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FATnLOW, you are determined! They look great.
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Get to closer
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Done
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Nice work!
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Fatnlow you’re 33 Chevrolet looks great plus clean looking! Here’s my recent 34 Chevrolet Roadster interior updates! RoarsRods
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Thanks..yours is nice also
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You guys do some mighty nice work! FATnLOW, you probably spent more time on that cup holder than I did on my whole interior! ;D
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Made the boot....now to make brake handle boot with same material
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Perfect! :)
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Order front bumper today...rear bumper will not be available until 2 months from now...got on the call list for the rear bumper...........................................
Thanks Tom for the info and photos
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I'm in need of a front bumper and spring for a 32
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I'm in need of a front bumper and spring for a 32
Filling station Chevrolet parts has the front bumper and bumper brackets listed for your 32 Chevrolet
Just under $300 for the brackets and $400 for the bumper already chromed! Your looking at just under $500 cost for just the chrome alone! When I did my recent Roadster build had got prices for my bumpers at $495 each! The good thing was mine were all in great condition! Here’s the filling station bumper part!
1931-32 CAR/PU FRONT BUMPER-CHROME Photo Main
1931-32 CAR/PU FRONT BUMPER-CHROME
Weighs 19.0000lbs.
This bumper face bar is for Single Bar Front Bumpers used in late 1931 through 1932. Made to fit all Chevrolet passenger cars and pickups. Bumper bolt hole centers are 58-5/8".
This part is considered oversize by United Parcel Service and is subject to an additional delivery fee.
This part fits most 1931 1932 Chevrolet Cars and Trucks.; exceptions may apply. Please read the complete description to see if this part fits your specific vehicle and application.
Part#:RV-9
Price:$400.00 EA
RoarsRods
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I got mine for the 33 from Rock Valley https://www.rockvalleyantiqueautoparts.com/catalog.htm (https://www.rockvalleyantiqueautoparts.com/catalog.htm)
I've attached their catalog pages.
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Thanks I'll check them out
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Order front bumper today...rear bumper will not be available until 2 months from now...got on the call list for the rear bumper....................
Hey Ed think I had seen your car posted on early Chevrolet Facebook site! Not sure if that’s you! If so I want to thank you for the connection with Jim and his 1933 masters rolling frame! I was just helping a VCCA member Jonjet from Farmington New Mexico which in turn he’s helping out a guy that he’s never met! So now Jim is now setting up with a friends shipping for a one way trip out of Wisconsin! I had searched hi and low without being able to locate one! It was under an hour find on early Chevrolet Facebook site with your help! For the most am just returning Jonjet’s help from two years ago when he found me 3 bumper guards for my 34 Standard Roadster at a California flea market! Here’s the 33 Chevrolet master frame picture! Thanks again! RoarsRods
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No problem...your welcome...glad it worked out
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Playing around on panel designs and waiting on aluminium sheet that on order..did this to mount armrest/door pull more securly
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Nice work Ed. I have to do something similar on mine.
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like the inner panel design
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Ed, looking good man. What are the armrest/door pulls? They kinda look late 2nd gen Camaro.
Tom found a box down at the shop....it had my Corvette inside door handles. Been looking for them for 3yrs🥴
I hope your not as cold down there as us. Looks like we are going for the 1894 record number of days in a row under freezing.🥶
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Sammons I think they are from a Ford ..I got them from a friend...added aluminum back plate for the door pull
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Ahh, I forgot about Mustang and Fairmonts using that type too.
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Seat install...
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Nice, looks comfy!
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very nice wish I had the skills to be able to do interior work
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Fits nice Ed! Looking good and one more step forward.😁
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Looks great Ed!
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Rear seat, fits nicely between the wheel wells. What is it out of?
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Rear seat from 2000 Dodge Caravan
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Off to body and paint shop
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What color?
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Undecided....but down to 2. Garnett Red/ Dark Garnett Red or A Hyundai color Velvet Red..( both are maroon shade)...So hard to pick a color thought I had it picked out..until I got to the paint store.
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Should look great in either color!
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Congrats Ed on the long journey to the finsh line👍 Hopefully everything goes smooth and you and the wife will do some summer cruising.
I've always liked the maroon base color cars. Lol, my most picked color is black, so that makes color choise most the time. My uncle moved here in the early 70s with a nice 36 ford chevy powered pick up. It was maroon and he decided to have dad paint it silver. A year later, he had him paint it back to maroon😁
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All tore apart he had it tore down in 4 hrs...he's starting to block it and correct any problems
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Maroon adds class to old round cars especially '30s and early '40s.
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360* turn. Had a spray out on tail light arm...I'm super happy about the color and the way the flakes pop...so this is the color.... No Maroon...just couldn't pass up this spray out color......
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WOW! That's a 180!
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Ed thats real close just maybe a shade lighter to what i painted my brothers '68 Chevy panel, 1998-99 Chysler corp Deep Amethyst pearl. In direct sun it sparkles like that.
Here is a Jeep in that color
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Steve...I agree mine is a shade lighter....this paint was for my 40 Ford P/U
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Pretty but not classy. A definite 180.
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A peek ....before color sanding and buffing
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Dang Ed, that 'ol boy ain't screwing around. Never did understand those shops that would turn a 2week job of block sand and paint stretch out to months and years.
Congrats man, looking good. Looks like you will be moving on shortly🙂
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Due for pinstripping Sat...if we can decide on pattern or just leave it in pinstripers hands ...want old school pinstriping
Happy with the paint I got on line... Laid down good ...had to get more clear came to us really fast...guess he went heavy with it
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If the striper is experienced fella, i found it best just to say old school, not too busy and let them have at it. I was usually around so they could ask if i wanted more or thats enough😁
My brother had an older guy do his panel, real good thin straight lines. He did his purple truck in lighter purple and a lighter violet. Can't find the pic, but looked real nice.
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Together again
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Hey hey, you'll be crusin as soon as it warms up👍
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Wow, it looks gorgeous in paint! And I do love purple.
I took a look at the first pics on this project, it's quite the make over, good work!
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Totally different outside..can't wait for a sunny day
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Good to see all that hard work come together. Beautiful. What are you going to do with yourself now?
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I spot some pin striping. 😁 Center of wheel openings, behind qtr window and center of back panel. My phone won't zoom in good enough to see if thats all?
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One on radiator cap location...not very much....due to bad body line from factory...wanted simple not overbearing
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Lookin' great!
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Just a little to break up the panel
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Nice tastefully done pin striping Ed.👍
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Thumbs up!
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Yes, I like it!
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Thanks for all the comments.... Ppl
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Happy New Year....wishing all a very good 2024
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You too!
I love the shape of that car. Those front fenders are just perfect! Gotta love the 33 Chevy.
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Lookin' Great! Happy New Year!
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Same to you Ed. Your Chevy's sure looking nice👍
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Essex_29
Bjorn
Check your PM's..sent you messages a couple days ago about shipping.
Ed
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Sorry Ed, I've been having a cold, cough and sniffles for three weeks and have had to keep
indoors to try and get in shape to start working again after the Christmas and new years leave.
So: nothing doing => nothing done =>Nothing to post =>not been logged on.
// Bj?rn
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Any one price glass lately?? Got with my glass guy and he said it has taken a tremendous price hike...I didn't even ask about the price just gonna get it done and move on with the '33 ...i need 4 pieces cut and installed
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New window moulding , rubber and glass...then it was color sanded and buffed what a difference
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Great looking Chevy!
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It's a beauty!
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Looks fantastic! Awesome shine.
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Having a hell' ve time for interior work....they be high on some wacky weed or something or had too much drink ...may have to go out of town to find someone capable of doing what I need and want
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Ed, your sedan is looking great. It's been a long road, enjoy my friend.
Nothing worse than over priced, not what you wanted sub par work. Ran into this from an area uhpolsterer here. If i can't get what i want, how i wanted it... i'd just rather do it myself and put up with my mistakes and not somebody elses.
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Yes thats the road I'm looking at...been watching YouTube videos there one guy that does a good job explaining the process he's does....just need to do the flat headliner in ABS and then will decide what's ill do