Rusty Bowtie
General Category => Early Chevy/GM Discussion => Topic started by: Rattiac on December 01, 2013, 02:30:20 AM
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Bringing her home. (12-20-2009)
Had it in storage for a few months. I cleaned it up and painted it flat black cause I was giving it to my dad but he didn't want it.
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Hey that's a good looking car. What are your plans for it?
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Rattiac,
Looks like a real solid car. Should be a sweet ride! I guess you're glad your Dad didn't want it. :) Looking forward to the build.
Tom
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My plans are to keep it as stock as safely possible, aside from the drivetrain but I wont be cutting the body in any way . Something told me this car was special or rare and shouldn't be messed with I already have a engine/trans lined up for it till one day when I can afford to rebuild the original 6 and put a 5-speed behind it. Not even gonna lower it. Done that been there.
I also have a small teardrop trailer I plan on pulling behind it for long trips.
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Update
I got some work done before we moved from our first home (RDA)
I aquired some 54 spindles sent em' to get machined (Somehow the rod-shop lost em) so I now have a pair of Speedway's fordged spindles with
73 camaro disc's and some new leafsprings up front.
(update)
Had a machinist hog out the axle to get the spindles to adapt. But Ive read somewere that you can use a reamer from Harbor Freight and do it yourself.
I also found some 36 chevy truck rear fenders for $ 20 . They are a bit beat up but they'll work for now . I was told by the guy that 32 to 36 rear fenders are about the same. They do match the body lines well and I bought some tires that were on a 46 chevy (only 2000 miles on em')
7.60/15's paid $80
Teardown pics. (3-23-2010)
Broken leafspring repaired with a army belt.( Who knows how long someone drove on that)
Heres the new springs and spindles. Just in time to move
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I moved into another house but this time I had a garage and a shop in the back. It was awhile before I could get back to it but was able to get these.
Wheels
(3-24-2010)
I ended up getting these wheels at the local pik n pull . they wanted to charge me $ 5 for each wheel and $15.99 a tire. Thats $ 80.00 total . So I slashed the tires and walked away with 4 wheels for $23.00 .Take that pik n pull.
They are 1988 Caprice 15x7's . I took the wheels/tires down to a local (Wrench-it) center and mounted my own wheels for $ 32.50. cant beat that especially since a total of 8 wheels got dismounted. Used to be a tire-buster back in the day .
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Love that Army belt to hold the suspension together :). What type of shocks will you be installing? I notice the old ones still in place.
Tom
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Those old Pontiac's have great lines. I especially like the grill. The new front disks look like they should really get the job done.
Moose
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Im gonna keep the original shocks. This car has what is called "Ride Control" and the shocks are adjustable with a pull/push knob inside the cab .
Here's a cool link about 32 Pontiacs. Mine is the 402 series.
http://www.earlytimeschapter.org/1932.html
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parts (5-26-2010)
Went to the swapmeet/carshow the other day and scored some headlights for $30 (new still on box), an old rusty license plate and a taillight wich I thought was GM but was dodge so I sold it.
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Pontiac Caps (6-1-2010)
Seen these in the local classifieds and had to have em'. 75$
Perfect for the look im going for .
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V.V. Front windshield
I was starting to wonder what this knob above the windshield was for.....
I found out the car came with all the options and it has the VV (vision ventalation) windshield . as in the windshield rolls up a few inches from the bottom. I went to some Antique sites and was told Id never get it working and should leave it alone (something about pot metal) . So I removed the header board and seperated it , then soaked it in PB Blaster came back every few days gently taping it till it started to move.
I think its just the handle made of potmetal not the internal gears.
Works great. just need some glass now.
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Rattiac
You'll be glad you got your windshield to work. I don't know if your rear window rolls down but the 32 Chevy coupe does and with both the front and back windows open its better than A/C :-*
Moose
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well, the rear window dosent roll down but... it also has the cowl vent to get air onto the floor.
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Got this for my B-day. (6-22-2010)
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Replacing wood with steel. (7-19-2010)
Getting ready to replace some wood with steel. Did a ton of measuring and made a template or two. I'll start on the 2 long rails that support the body and go from there.
Steel should be in by friday. Here's a pic of what im up against.
Ever since I got this car I've been spraying PB Blaster all over the place . Hinges,Window cranks,ect. When I havent been able to work on it . So far Ive got every door handle and window cranks to work properly.
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Turning wood into steel. (9-27-2010)
Got the steel in a few weeks ago and was able to make some cuts for the main rails
Thats about $120 worth of steel then I got a Habor freight chop saw (about $ 50 w/ warrenty) . Its slow cutting but keeping the RPMs up is key.
I'll go into what size of steel I bought and why in a few post's
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Wood to steel : 101 (11-16-2010)
While the car has been sitting . Ive had some time to stare at it and think about how I was gonna tackle this part of the project. I decided to copy the wood to a certain extent ( weird shapes and all) , and try to keep it simple.
I started off measuring the thickness of the wood (keep in mind this effects hieght of the body
Then I measured the width of the wood near the doors.
Front door, the wood also gets wider here.
Then in the back the main rail ends, with this small rail ontop of it follows the rear wheel-well.(tape indicates the end)
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Part 2.
From there I came up with these sizes of steel. 1-1/2 x 4" and 1-1/2 x 3" rectangular steel. (1/8" wall)
The 4 Incher will be the main flat rail and the 3 incher is the rocker that will be welded to the side of the main rail in a (L shape).
Here I started making a pattern. I first drew out the measurements of the wood then placed the steel on top, centerd it up and cut out the pattern.
The pattern is where the main rail will lay and the dotted line is where the 3" width rail will be welded on the side.
Example in pic 3
Went to harbor freight and got some 4-1/2" cut-off wheels for my grinder. converted it and hacked away. cuts better than I thought it would.
Main rails. front is to the right of the pic.
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Wood to steel : 101
if you can tell in this pic the side rail has an under-cut to it. This is why I choose these sizes in steel, since I couldnt replicate this odd shape. the steel wont come out as far as the wood but will still be able to tack the rocker panel in place
Here I sprayed some white paint down and drew the rocker shape.
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Wood to steel : 101 (11-21-2010)
I was able to get the rest of the steel cut.
A pic of what it will look like with all the pieces. (stool indicates Drivers front)
Got the body bracing laid out. (using 1" square)
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Rattiac
It looks like your technique for replacing the wood will work out really well. I look forward to seeing it come together.
Moose
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Looks you have that portion well planned...that will be a great foundation for the rest of the framing.
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Looks like you got a good start. Some of the wood pieces look a lot like the ones I replaced on my 33 Chevy. Keep up the good work.
Tom
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Thanks everyone. This part had to be done cause you could actually feel the body move when we pushed it into the shop.
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Wood to steel : 101 (12-4-2010)
Pulled the motor/trans today. I did this so I could slide in the steel rails in without pulling the body completely off the frame. The plan is to do this one side at a time with the engine hoist holding up that side of the body.
On with the pics and off with the hood & grill.
My dad gave me these H.F. rollers he used to manuver his boat around. One was bent a bit , So I used em' to put the motor/ trans on and it rolls around easy.
Oh yeah. I was looking at the horn and the inside looked clean. So I pulled it off and tested it on a battery. It works . awesome.
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Wood to steel , Part 3 (1-9-2011)
Ive got the main rails ready to go in (silver) and the rockers welded up (unpainted).
I used my arc welder to weld them up so I could save gas on my little mig. (for bracing)
Havent arc welded since high-school days. I could get a bead going but I didnt look like a roll of dimes, oh well , good practice
Body is all braced up.
I knocked out the rockers first B-4 I braced it up. The new rockers will go in after the main rails.
Also tack-welded the doors in a few spots
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Pic of gap where rockers used to be.
New rails install. (2-15-2011)
Used the engine hoist to hold up the body while I slid in each rail.
No more wood.....
Rails slid in.
Rear.
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Wow nice work! You're on a mission :)
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Final floor steel.. (2-21-2011)
Rockers were mocked up and drilled access holes for 3 big sheetmetal screws to attach em' to the main rails. This way they can be removed if need be.
I will put a few weld beads up at the top for an extra measure.
Painted and bolted on.
Rockers slip right on and tacked into place.
This has stiffened the body up a ton. I used to hear rust crunching if I pushed on the body at the wrong spot when we would push it in/out the shop. Now no movement at all.
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Next item on the list .
The Roof. (2-27-2011)
And now Im gonna start on the roof cuz thats the next bad section of wood that needs to be fixed. Plus I dont want a rusty nail to fall on my head.
I made a template of the curve the roof has then started knocking out wood.
My boss gave me some scrap bends left over from 3rd seats that we build. They work out about perfect. In the front they were dead on.
In the back I'll have to decrease the bend a bit to work.
I also got some parts shopping done . Wait till ya see what I brought home.
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It's looking good! What's the other classic Chevy in your picture?
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Thanks for posting this. Replacing the wood is what worries me the most about my build and it is just a little roadster that has almost all of the wood to use for patterns and measurements. I know that once I start it will become more clear. Your explanation and pictures are a big help. Your work is pretty darn good too! ;D
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Oh, That's my '80 Chevette . A few years ago I put a 231 V6, TH350, 8" ford rear in it . It made a fun and fast daily driver for a few years.
Well Im glad this may help someone out. Most of this I figured out by myself but following the K.I.S.S. method seemed to be the way to go. I wished I had known about this site sooner. I felt like a black sheep surrounded by ford's and whatnot.
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Back to the roof.
Here's the hoop all welded up.
The wood arches I made for the bends.
I finnally got the roof (hoop) bent up . Tried heating it up but wouldnt stay bent . So my boss and I bent it up cold (on a table). Clamped down one side then started bending every 6 inches +- Till it matched up with the patterns
Front section without wood. There are some steel gussets in the corners. Also tied into the steel
brackets on the sides.
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I set it in and found I needed to tweek it in some places.
Also had to bend some archs from side to side , So I placed one end under a tire from my other car and used a 2x4 block of wood then stepped on the other end. (using wood is more forgiving and produces a more round bend)
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Roof Done.
Did a quick tune up on the lil-mig and its all welded up.
I tied it into the existing metal braces also.
I put a "soft-top channel" (from a Wrangler) in the front for a rag top that I can roll up.
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What I brought home.. (5-22-2011)
Parts Shopping :
Found this Walker Radiator in the local classifieds for $350. Its for a ford but it was the right width and only an inch short on the height. It was new condition. The guy that owned it thought it was too heavy for his racey T-bucket.
After looking all winter for a S-10 10-bolt w/3.73's and 59" width , I gave up and found this Ford 8.8 rear w/3.73 limited-slip for $150 . Its a 93 ranger rear with a 58.5 width (WMS) .
I learned form my last build and chose an axle I wasnt gonna have to dump a ton of dough into to get it adapted.
A local speed shop switched the bolt pattern for only $ 70 . Great guys.
He said it was one of the easiest rears to work with . No machining/welding required , just drilling.
Just checking measurements. Looking good.
The original spring perches were almost dead on , too bad there on the wrong side .
Oh well. Pick up some new one's this week.
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Rear-End (7-5-2011)
Preped up the Ford 8.8 to install .
(torched and ground off all the old mounts , beveled the spring pads , and so on.)
Out with the old............
In with the new.
Gonna adapt some new bumpstops to the old bracket.
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Rear
To adapt the old shocks (ride-control)
I cut the orginal bracket off as close to the bushings as possible then got a sway-bar bushing kit , some 3" length bolts and welded the shock-rod to the top of the bolts.
(see red bushings)
Mounts up just like stock.
Talk about a perfect width .
Within a 1/2" to the edge of the running board.
(Pontiac wide-track now)
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Great job on the roof surround! I'm interested on seeing how the sliding top works that is a great idea.
I used a 4.3 in the 27 because of the short engine compartment. Originally I wanted to buy a Cosworth Vega engine for it that a good friend of mine has. They look so cool with the aftermarket side drafts and the big tube SS header coming out the other side. It would be great for a open wheel lakes style car
In the end I'm so happy with the V6 700r4 combo. Plenty of power like you had in your chevette
Good score on the radiator. Money well spent.
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Really nice work. On the forged spindles what were they from and how hard was it to get them to fit the 73 camaro parts?
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when trying to put a slight bend in steel ,such as your roof bracket's
heat the steel on one side and cool it in water .It will bend gently and keep it's shape
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Isn't that top hose on the Walker radiator on the GM side....
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Ghost;
The spindles were from Speedway and the rotors fit perfectly. I'll post more on the brakes in the next few days.
Wood;
Thanks for the good info.
EDNY;
I think so. It worked well .
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Brakes (8-17-2011)
I mocked up my master cylinder , checked pedal travel , and so on.
Mount all welded up .
( I used a rod from the mechanical brake system as a support since it was thick and strong )
I was out of flat stuff anyway.
Master cylinder and combo valve bolted up , ran all the brake lines , welded up a M/C push-rod also.
Top view .
Spec's :
73 camaro (manual) master cylinder and rotors/calipers , 85 camaro combo valve .
I didnt put any residual valves in cuz im not lowered and the combo valve helps in slippery conditions . (google it)
I plan on running this car cross country . I guess we will see if there's any hicc-ups , but it should work.
I wished I could of lowered the pedal back an inch or so ( to give better steering wheel to leg room )
but it took the whole 1 - 1/2 inch of travel the pedal had , with a tad of freeplay (1/16')
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(10-17-2011)
Well after figuring out that the rod-shop screwed up and ordered the wrong brackets
Speedway swaped em' out no problem (even after I had them for 2 yrs ).
So now with all the correct parts , I have the 11" intermediate GM kit for thier fordged 54 spindles.
The car originally had the tie-rod bar behind the axle but it interfered with the the calipers so I moved it to the front wich helped cuz now the steering stop now touches like it susposed to do .
You can see how I ran the brakeline also .
Brake lines installed.
( I routed the hard-line this way so they wouldnt get burned up when I weld in the
motor-mount crossmember)
The rubber-line mount welded up just below the shock resivour . Plenty of travel and no rubbing form the draglink.
rear brake-line to the 8.8 ford axle.
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Brakes done ............... (11-1-2011)
but chasing a few leaks .
I ended up changing some adapters on the m/c , and then putting (alum) washers on BOTH sides of the brake-hose .(ditched the copper washers) That cured the leaks. Bought some speed-bleeders for the rear.
Still gotta bleed the fronts when I get an extra hand , but for now I cracked the fronts open and left em' for the night. Works for now and theres good pressure in the pedal .
Might push it out of the garage and give it a very low speed test.
(again another helping hand )
When I ordered the calipers in I got a few things I needed just to get it running .
A 15" mechanical Fan and a floor shifter.
I odered this from Jegs : universal floor shifter ( $ 37) used for columm to floor coversions.
its 14 1/2 " tall and the mech junk is under the floor. Just a basic shifter .
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Windows.
Since there was downtime between shipping I had some tinted Lexan we found in the garage when we moved in .
There was a full sheet of dark tint (20%) that I used for the rear 3 windows and some already cut up sheets with lighter tint (35%) that were used for the doors , they were about 2 inches short but who cares they were free .
I finally got the fronts bled with help from my son . Then we pushed the car out and tested the brakes .It snowed that morning (1/2") . Good ,that's some real world testing .
The IROC proportioning valve did its job with no rear-brake lock-up on slippery surfaces .
It all works great.
I spent the day cleaning shop and then got ready for the next phase :
The MOTOR / TRANS install .
;D 8)
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Rattiac
I'm really enjoying this build thread.....Keep um coming!!!
Moosew
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Great progress! I like that your using the stock pedal.
How does the shifter mount?
Speedway gets some flack on the HAMB for being the Walmart of parts, but I have had nothing but good experiences with them. 1 shackle quality problem that I returned. No problem.
Again they have The best automotive museum in the world. If your going cross country on I 80 check their web site to see when it's open and plan on going.
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Thanks for posting your build. Great pictures and commentary. Very interesting.
Tom
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Rattiac, you are really busting out on this. It's fun to watch.
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Glad you guys are enjoying the build :). I'll be getting to that shifter soon.
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(12-30-2011)
The motor /trans coming out of the Chevette . A while after this I sold the chevette with the V-6 kit and 8" rear. Wasn't intending to, but the guy really wanted it. Figured it was one less project to have sitting around.
Engine / Trans install
Used a v-6 crossmember motor mount from speedway. Arc welded that in .
Since this 231 had only 12,000 miles on it (since I rebuilt it) and it was a Pontiac block it seemed like fate.
I tried using the stock exhaust manifolds but they hit the steering box and passenger frame-rail , So I found these Heddman Hedders from summit for a late 70's camaro . Fits much better.
Now I gotta get the radiator in the shell and get the hood on.
Ended up ditching that crappy bun filter .
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(1-3-2012)
I got the radiator in to the shell. Who knew a model A radiator would fit so well in a GM grill.
Put the hood , headlights back on . Its been sooooooo long .
The headers did touch on the drivers side but the hood was pushed in a bit , So I pushed it back out and the only thing that touches is the latch when I unlock it to open it .
Gotta love those gills
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I fabbed up an under the floor battery-box , gonna finish it up. I had Maaco quote me to pull the dent out of the gas-tank , they wanted $ 170. Yeah right. I could buy the tool for $ 99 at harbor freight and pull the dent myself . The radiator shop quoted $175 to clean and seal it .
HAa . Speedway $ 70 .
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Ordered up a tank cleaner/repair kit from summit , good price.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-900056-3/
Went to pick up a stud welder from harbor-freight but they were out of stock for a week or two.
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Wow Rattiac.....You don't waste any time. Really shaping up. For $170 Maaco should gold plate that tank!
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Battery box is in. (4-22-2012)
I wasnt able to find any original taillight(s) but it looked real close to these
Model A taillights (LED) only they are a bit smaller. Close enuf.
Made a small mount for the right taillight.
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Wow Rattiac.....You don't waste any time. Really shaping up. For $170 Maaco should gold plate that tank!
Yeah. and the radiator shop wanted to cut it in half to get to the dent.
No way, I said "I'll do it myself".
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This tank had plenty of dirt , beehives and trash in it. I filled it full of water to get the stuff I couldnt get out and drained it .
I was told to fill it with water before welding to prevent explosion by a mechanic that works on the power company trucks.
Gas-Tank
Some progress on the gas tank. (5-2-2012)
Pulling the dent out .
Found a pinhole after spraying some etching primer.
Ground it down and hit it with the mig . No more pinhole.
Here it is all cleaned, sealed and painted. The sealer took about 2 weeks to fully cure (no solvent smell) .
Since I needed a sender unit before re- installing the tank I ordered up some custom gauges from Classic Instruments.
This is where the fun begins. Its almost thrash time .
I forgot to mention that most of the work has already been done. That's why it seems like im cruising through this .
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(6-4-2012)
Here's the delux sending unit classic sent me . After measuring and adjusting the sending unit to the tank depth I had to hog-out the hole to get it installed so I vaccumed out what metal shavings I could , then used a magnet , then washed it out with gas a few times . I'll be running 2 filters just to make sure. 1 huge flter underneath and a smaller filter before the carb.
ready for the install.
Made my own tank-straps for $ 9.00
The original strap on top.
Gas-tank installed and fuel-line is ran to the pump and carb.
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I ended up pulling the tank and redoing the straps it just wasnt fitting right at the filler neck.
Took about 1/2 or more out of the straps and its fits right now. Picked up some battery cable and exhaust pieces. Also sending the driveshaft in too .
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Driveline, Exhaust and battery cables (7-14-2012)
Here's the exhaust ready to mock-up . Made up a wire template and had 2 pieces bent up for me, drivers side pipe and tail-pipe.
Y- pipe and a 25" glasspack all ready to weld.
Collector pipes welded.
Had to grind the flanges to clear sparkplug boots
Driveline , exhaust , battery cables all done.
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Here's a cool view from under the fender.
Not bad for my own built exhaust . Since the shops around here charge way too much for hotrods.
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It's looking good! I like the exhaust.
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Picked up some (16ga) sheet-metal to get started on the floor. Front and rear pieces are cut out . A guy by my work is gonna let me use his brake but...That fell thru , so I ended up paying someone to bend it . (10-15-2012)
I called speedway and ordered what should be the last of the parts I need to get her going .
Light switch, turn signal w/ dummie loads for LED's, Brake light switch, Gas pedal (spoon), Dimmer switch w/ pigtail , and two 4inch peep mirrors.
Workin on the floor right now , getting access doors cut for the battery and brakes.
Even put the seat in to get that all mocked up and holes drilled.
Started on the front floor but realized it needed a brace under the seat, so looking back at my wood photos I put a brace where the original was. Also painted the rails with dark-rust (rustoleum) so when I put the floor on top it will help blend it into the rusty rockers.
I did the floor in 3 sections . Front , back then riveted in the middle on top of the other 2.
Also bolted in the seatbelts to the frame.
Had a few bends put in so it was just like stock. I didnt like how the floor was kinda weak near the battery door so the part I cut out I welded underneath in the middle. now its nice and strong.
Front section: access door made for the brakes. Toeboard, shifter and original E-brake installed.
Used a mechanical brake switch with a lil chain hooked up to the pedal .
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Rear floor.
I had a slight up-angle put in and the rear section has a 2 inch kickup.
Plenty of access for the battery.
Rear seat installed. Dodge caravan seats work out pefectly . I still have enuf room behind the seat to put in 2 6x9 speakers. Gotta have some tunes. someday.
The bulldog checking out his new seat while I hog out the holes in the dash a tiny bit.
Getting the dash ready.
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Oh theres more.......
I had to have some custom E-brake cables made since Ford ranger/explorer were way too long . So at $ 55 a side I had these made up . Kinda spendy but had no other options.
Spoon throttle pedal installed.
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And finally onto the wiring .
(10-16-2012)
After going over everything. Making sure I had all switches, connectors and reading the manual about 150 times. I started on the wiring.
Here's the fusebox mounted. Looks easy enuf . He, he.
I decided this was a no-rush area that I wanted perfect, so if it took a few weekends it was no big deal to me.
(http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x9/RockRacer1/WiringcherokeeMMP012.jpg) (http://s180.photobucket.com/user/RockRacer1/media/WiringcherokeeMMP012.jpg.html)
Actually it wasnt that bad. I had more trouble with the timing than anything.
Engine bay all done and ready to loom.
Made sure it was all nice and neat.
(http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x9/RockRacer1/WiringcherokeeMMP027.jpg) (http://s180.photobucket.com/user/RockRacer1/media/WiringcherokeeMMP027.jpg.html)
Front section I decided to run up the passenger side cause I figured I had enuf things in the drivers side framerail . Just seperating sides at the moment but it all got ran into the fender mounts. Again lots of loom . I dont want a wire rubbing on anything.
(http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x9/RockRacer1/WiringcherokeeMMP028.jpg) (http://s180.photobucket.com/user/RockRacer1/media/WiringcherokeeMMP028.jpg.html)
Here's the dash getting ready to be wired. Looks scary dosent it. Organized Kaos.
Yea, I ate lunch in the car already.
(http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x9/RockRacer1/WiringcherokeeMMP030.jpg) (http://s180.photobucket.com/user/RockRacer1/media/WiringcherokeeMMP030.jpg.html)
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The dash
Here's the dash all done with a really nice and exspensive set of Classic gauges .
I wanted the gauges to be as original as I could get and didnt want to cut any holes.
So the only thing I had to do was hog out the 2 big holes just slightly. I am really pleased
with how it turned out and hope I did this Pontiac proud .
I also wired in one of those cool chrome turn signal switches.
(http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x9/RockRacer1/WiringcherokeeMMP031.jpg) (http://s180.photobucket.com/user/RockRacer1/media/WiringcherokeeMMP031.jpg.html)
I still need to put in 2 switches for dome light, ect and the choke cable got installed later.
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Man, you are flying on this car!! Looking good.
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Well. This work was done last winter/spring. I was in a rush to get this done in time for the Lincoln Highway trip (Hwy #1) that was coming through Utah in June. I'll post more on this later .
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Fired up and a test drive.
Well after getting it all wired . It fired up on the 3rd of October 2012 . That weekend we went camping to celebrate . The next sunday I took it for a spin around the block. Found a oil leak and fixed it . I drove great, alot softer ride than I thought it would have but im cool with that. Almost ran it outta gas all 2 gall of it.
I still had a bunch of things to do. I have a RR taillight thats constantly on and I havent put the headlights or front bumper on yet. Needs a windsheid and some other cosmetic things such as paint and I need to sew up a top for it..........Oh also build a hitch to pull the teardrop .
but Im so happy its running.
Now Ive gotta clean the shop and do some home fixes . That may take a few weeks. LIFE
I snapped this pic before the wiring. Just got lucky. He dosent sit still for long.
(http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x9/RockRacer1/WiringcherokeeMMP007.jpg) (http://s180.photobucket.com/user/RockRacer1/media/WiringcherokeeMMP007.jpg.html)
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I fixed the brake lights and they now work properly. I had to turn the switch up-side down and convert it to a push-system instead of pull.
Also fixed a leak or two. So no more leaks .
Its gonna sit for a few weeks to make way for some other projects but when I get back to it I'll post up some start-up video and more pics.
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Front Bumper
Gotta work on it a bit a few weeks later .
The 3 front bumper bolts were broke off inside the frame (except 1) . I tried using an extractor kit to get em' out but the drill bit started going sideaways.
So I cut down some 1/2inch bolts and welded them on to create studs to mount the bumper to.
Had to straighten the bumper out at work, but its a lot better than it was.
(http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x9/RockRacer1/2013008_zpsb58a096b.jpg) (http://s180.photobucket.com/user/RockRacer1/media/2013008_zpsb58a096b.jpg.html)
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Here's a pic when I was getting it ready for its first drive.
(http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x9/RockRacer1/WiringcherokeeMMP014_zpsce4c55fc.jpg) (http://s180.photobucket.com/user/RockRacer1/media/WiringcherokeeMMP014_zpsce4c55fc.jpg.html)
First drive video. Did a small burnout too . (click on vid)
(http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x9/RockRacer1/th_32Pontiacfirststartanddrive_zps13de6439.jpg) (http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x9/RockRacer1/32Pontiacfirststartanddrive_zps13de6439.mp4)
Also picked this up a month earlier.
Bought it cheaper than I could build one. That's OK, didnt need another project anyway.
(http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x9/RockRacer1/teardrop009.jpg) (http://s180.photobucket.com/user/RockRacer1/media/teardrop009.jpg.html)
Done some work to it. Painted the frame black added some moab stickers and put a bed in it.
(http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x9/RockRacer1/MyMoab2012100-1.jpg) (http://s180.photobucket.com/user/RockRacer1/media/MyMoab2012100-1.jpg.html)
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The test drive was awesome. Im sure that car hasnt been driven in 40 years at least.
It rode nice and smooth. The small burnout was fun .
Now back to business.
I had 6 weeks to go get on the road for the Lincoln Highway trip and here's the shi#!-list.
1.)Windshield-
2.)Lights and markers mounted
3.)Wiring- I have a few wires left over I'll have to tie up (radio, cigarette lighter, heater,wipers, ect)
4.) Install front bench and passenger front window.
5.) Re rattle can the paint.
6.) Bolt down the rear fenders.
7.) Torque down all suspension and steering
8.) Alignment
9.) Get insurance and pass safety inspection .
10.) Make a hitch to hook-up the teardrop .
Then hit the road . :) At least that's what I thought.
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Lincoln Highway plans
I was hoping to get the 32 all legal by then so I could take it on Lincoln Hwy on the 25th but when I talked to the DMV that week they sent me a packet to fill out . Once I get it filled out and send in some "before pics" then it will take 30-90 days to do a history check thoughout the U.S. Looking for liens, last registered, previous owners, ect .
Oh and I have to have a cop look at it and do some sort of paperwork to send in also .
After all that is done I can get the saftey inspection done .
Im bummed out but looking foward to see what the history is on this car .
As for the Lincoln hwy trip . I still went . I just took the jeep and got some pics when I met up with them on the long dirt road back to the city .
Here's a link . http://www.lincolnhighwayassoc.org/
Here's what inspired me for the Lincoln Hwy. When we went camping we saw this monument and when I took the car on its first test drive I was shocked at how soft the suspension was and it seemed perfect for this trip.
(http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x9/RockRacer1/WhiteRocks004.jpg) (http://s180.photobucket.com/user/RockRacer1/media/WhiteRocks004.jpg.html)
(http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x9/RockRacer1/WhiteRocks005.jpg) (http://s180.photobucket.com/user/RockRacer1/media/WhiteRocks005.jpg.html)
Here's a few pics from the trip. This was just as they entered Utah from Neveda heading east.
(http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x9/RockRacer1/LincolnHwy029_zps618e0745.jpg) (http://s180.photobucket.com/user/RockRacer1/media/LincolnHwy029_zps618e0745.jpg.html)
(http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x9/RockRacer1/LincolnHwy032_zps157e4dd3.jpg) (http://s180.photobucket.com/user/RockRacer1/media/LincolnHwy032_zps157e4dd3.jpg.html)
(http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x9/RockRacer1/LincolnHwy020_zpsbe154805.jpg) (http://s180.photobucket.com/user/RockRacer1/media/LincolnHwy020_zpsbe154805.jpg.html)
I thought this was soooooo cool cause you just don't see old cars on dirt roads anymore.
That's what they were built for . Tough because most roads at the time were dirt or mud.
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Paperwork
I finally sent in all the paperwork. It took me awhile cause I couldn't find my bill of sale . So I called the previous owner and when he got back in town we made a new B.O.S.
Had a cop come over and do a VIN inspection but had to clean and paint the VIN to make it readable . Sent in about 6 pics of the tags/vin and condtion of the car before restoration.
So I hope this all goes well with no hiccups. I'll probably hear something on it in the next few months .
Here's a pic of the other airfilter I have on it . I don't hate it but it wont stay . Just a normal round filter should look like it belongs. I also couldn't stand the silver valve covers so I made em' look rusty. much better .:)
(http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x9/RockRacer1/32pontiac011_zps6aae3228.jpg) (http://s180.photobucket.com/user/RockRacer1/media/32pontiac011_zps6aae3228.jpg.html)
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Well I finally received the Title in the mail .It only took 2 months
No history on it . But Oh'well ITS MINE, ITS ALL MINE . :)
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Took the 32 to get an alignment. Rented a dolly. That was an adventure in itself.
Steers much better now and dosent fold the wheel when I turn left.
Theres still one issue he told me about. The wheels turn too fast for the steering box.
He said I may need to modify my steering arms (drill a hole to bring the tie-rod in closer)
to slow down the speed it steers.
(Later I found out it was the steering arm for the draglink that's too short)
I'll address this later. I may have to cut/weld the arm and extend it an inch .
The camber problem I had is now gone and the tires are nice and straight .
(http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x9/RockRacer1/32alignment_zps8627c84c.jpg) (http://s180.photobucket.com/user/RockRacer1/media/32alignment_zps8627c84c.jpg.html)
later I drove it over to the gas station. Got it up to 45 with no issues . Drove nice and straight.
Funny thing about a car that's flat-black. Everybody looks but nobody approached me asking questions. Big difference from having a painted car.
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During the downtime.
This has given me a chance to do some major clean-up in the shop. Its a disaster zone in here but, I know where every tool is .
I got kinda distracted when I had one side clean and started on the top and hitch.
Using a jeep channel for the front of the top. I layed out some measurements and I'll sew in the little plastic piece wich will go into the channel.
(http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x9/RockRacer1/32pontiac001_zpsc3d6796c.jpg) (http://s180.photobucket.com/user/RockRacer1/media/32pontiac001_zpsc3d6796c.jpg.html)
Im using truck taunue material since it has no stretch. When the hot sun hits, it wont get loose over time.
(http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x9/RockRacer1/32pontiac005_zps3ec1a1b5.jpg) (http://s180.photobucket.com/user/RockRacer1/media/32pontiac005_zps3ec1a1b5.jpg.html)
Took it outside to let the sun heat up the material. Flipped it over to mark the frame demensions from the inside.
(http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x9/RockRacer1/LilMoab019_zps5080c31e.jpg) (http://s180.photobucket.com/user/RockRacer1/media/LilMoab019_zps5080c31e.jpg.html)
That's about as far on that as I got for awhile.
Then I started making a hitch to pull the teardrop.
(http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x9/RockRacer1/32pontiac004_zpse053d661.jpg) (http://s180.photobucket.com/user/RockRacer1/media/32pontiac004_zpse053d661.jpg.html)
Gotta cut out where the bumper will bolt on top. This will get sandwiched between the bumper and frame with other reinforcements later .
(http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x9/RockRacer1/32pontiac003_zpsd531ae47.jpg) (http://s180.photobucket.com/user/RockRacer1/media/32pontiac003_zpsd531ae47.jpg.html)
This is where im currently at on the build. Ran out of money and have to get my other jeep ready to sell this next month or 2.
I'll keep ya posted this spring when it gets a windshield and registered.
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I have one question.........when do you sleep?
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Man, You distracted me for a few hours with the Lincoln Highway link. The second alignment runs through here as well as the Pony Express Route and the Carson River Route of the Emigrant Trail. I drive parts of the Lincoln Highway every day but I will alter my route to Bonneville next year to cover that 1913 dirt road stretch. How much of the tour did you do? I love your Pontiac. You are inspiring.
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I started about 9am. and entered the route at Faust heading west hoping to meet up with them at about the half-way mark. It appered they left late also because I didn't see them till I passed Ibapa almost at the end of the dirt road as they entered Utah. So I couldn't follow them back because I needed gas and was closer to Wendover . So I took pics as they passed by. I was quite a site, they had about 20+ vehicles and some support rigs.
Not sure if there's a tour this next year . I'll e-mail the director. But Im gonna try it anyway in Utah. Coming down from Wendover then head back to slc on dirt.
Id also like to drive to Speedweek and see the craziness rod's, races, ect. Maybe I'll blend both trips into one and do that on the way back form speedweek.
I have been getting some sleep now that the build is stuck on hold.
Here's a pic of the long dirt road , looking from Simpson springs.
(http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x9/RockRacer1/LincolnHwy017_zps2c5f3d63.jpg) (http://s180.photobucket.com/user/RockRacer1/media/LincolnHwy017_zps2c5f3d63.jpg.html)
..
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I just noticed the video isn't working a few post's above . I'll fix that.
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I bet it wasn't that nice in 1913. Driving the little roads is my favorite part of traveling. I've been on 66 from end to end and I would love to do the longer Lincoln Highway too. Maybe when the roadster is done. I can not imagine driving in NYC in a '26 Chevy roadster.
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Man that looks like fun I like driving the back roads, and THAT'S THE BACK ROADS with flair. That pontiac is so cool.
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During the downtime and other projects in the way I was able to work on the Headlight stands.
Cant get em' chromed yet, so I just wire-wheeled and polished em on the buffer at work.
(left is untouched) right is polished.
(http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x9/RockRacer1/LilMoab001_zps6383db3e.jpg) (http://s180.photobucket.com/user/RockRacer1/media/LilMoab001_zps6383db3e.jpg.html)
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During the downtime and other projects in the way I was able to work on the Headlight stands.
Cant get em' chromed yet, so I just wire-wheeled and polished em on the buffer at work.
(left is untouched) right is polished.
(http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x9/RockRacer1/LilMoab001_zps6383db3e.jpg) (http://s180.photobucket.com/user/RockRacer1/media/LilMoab001_zps6383db3e.jpg.html)
Home powder coating is another option.
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The patinia will do for now .
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Finally got my videos to work again.
Heres the first test drive. (and a small burnout).
(http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x9/RockRacer1/th_32Pontiacfirststartanddrive_zps678ff70f.jpg) (http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x9/RockRacer1/32Pontiacfirststartanddrive_zps678ff70f.mp4)
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That's cool! Hope you get lots of miles on it.
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Cool ride, hopefully the first of many more!
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A milestone. I hope to do that someday.
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Alright got some funds together. Should be going in for a windshield here in a few weeks. Then just after my 4x4 trip, getting back to work on it. Lets see. Here's the shi#!-list .
1.) Windshield
2.) E-brake cables install
3.) bolt in front bench
4.) figure out where to mount the peep mirrors (up high or factory location)
5.) bolt down rear fenders and bolt to running boards
6.) tidy up loose wires under dash
7.) "A SUPRISE" but has to do with front fenders.
8.) Headlights
9.) Finish sewing up top w/ snaps and Velcro
10.) Weld up hitch
11.) Go get inspected and register .
THATS ALL ... I THINK
I want to have this on the road by June for its first carshow and the local Lincoln Hwy assc is having a event here and don't want to miss that.
Damn, its been awhile since Ive started it up . Better do that this weekend .
I really need to quit going wheeling sooo much.
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Good luck and keep us posted.
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Sounds like you know what you need to do. Looking forward to seeing the progress.
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On my 33 Chevy 5 window coupe...had to buy a longer shafted peep mirror to see around the side of the car...where it is located was not my choice...it's the only location that works. :)
Ed
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I already have the mirrors and they have a bent arm. On other Poncho's that I have pics of it looks like they go just under the hinge near the bottom of the window. Don't know if I'll try and swap em' out for straight arms . Speedway's pretty good about that but I bought em' last year.
Also the doors have no holes for a factory location. So these have a clamp on option.
One of those put it up to it and see where it looks good things .
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Started her up today.
Made me, even feel good.
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Nothing like hearing it talking to you to get the old blood pumping :-*
Moose
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I bet it feels good that the driveline came from a running car and ready to drive! No break in problems...
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Yes, that was nice. I liked not having firewall issues.
Made installing the engine kinda fun instead of work.
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Looking at your build thread from the beginning it's come a long way. Glad to hear you got it running without any trouble. With the low mileage on the engine it should serve you well. Keep it up!
Tom
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Yay. I made it back. Was having login issues .
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So here's the suprise Ive been holding out on.
Ive been trying to keep the body as original as possible .
The car has park/marker lights mounted on the front fenders but I only had one that was just a shell
and dented up pretty bad. So while looking for some on e-bay to no luck. I found a glass that goes inside but the guy wanted $250 just for that.
So keeping with the moto "if ya cant find original, better get something damn close" .
I started looking at the old guide lights that has a marker mounted to the top. Gave me an idea. :)
Original
(http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x9/RockRacer1/steeltowood012.jpg)
I found these from OTB Gear .
(http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x9/RockRacer1/32pontiac007_zps107d862e.jpg)
(http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x9/RockRacer1/32pontiac006_zps6780358f.jpg)
Still gotta bit of work to do to the fender and wire it up.
Was also thinking of putting in a tiny led for turn signals inside.
(http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x9/RockRacer1/32pontiac002_zps9e3a77c7.jpg)
The cool thing is that they were just a bit shorter, but still "close enough"
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That will work fine!
I was looking for a set of those Guide marker lights to attach to my standard round lights...is that something you had or just bought?
Ed
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I bought em' after I got the measurements from OTB Gear . They are so close to the original marker lights its scary .
Here's a link for ya.
http://www.otbgear.com/default.aspx
Gonna be giving a call (this week) to the glass-shop down the street and get an appointment set up for the windshield.
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Now that's going to set your car apart. Very cool!
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I agree....They will look great!!
Moose
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Finnaly sold my wrangler 2 weeks ago :'( . So now thats outta the way and can divert my attention to the 32.
The front seat got installed . feels good to have that done .
Today I drove it to the glass guy.
What a fun and scary ride at the same time. Did good for a few miles then I hit a big bump and experienced "death wobble" for a few seconds till I got on the brakes and slowed down :o. Other than that it was a great ride (no windshield at 40mph) .
Once I get it back mon/tues I'll address the D.W. issue. The shocks have no fluid so I'll fill those up and tighten down every bolt in the front and steering . If that dont do it, maybe a "trackbar" is next to order.
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The one on top of the headlight looks like a 1934 Ford.The other ones on top of the fenders look like the clearence lights on top of the old tractor trailer,tractors. check out an old truck scrap yard i am sure you will find something on the roofs of the older trucks mooseman
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Got the car back from the glass shop today. I now have a windshield . 8)
I had a choice of a light green tinted windshield or a clear windshield .
I chose the tinted. Glad I did.
On the way home I had a "wobble" issue again but at 20mph . I think its coming from the R.F. tire. Seems whenever I hit a big bump its the right front . I kinda want to stick my action camera under there and get some video of it .
I'll post pics when progress is made.
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OK are guys ready for some pics!!!
The windshield done .
I rolled it up a bit. I love this vision/ventalation windshield ! ;D
The glass guy said he had done a ton of fords but never a roll up windshield. I said now you've done it all .
I let him have it for a few days cause I know things like this should never be rushed.
(http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x9/RockRacer1/32s1stcarshow009_zps50e65608.jpg)
Since it was my B-day on the 19th I took the morning off work and got the registration done.
With new Antique license plates I was ready to roll. but...... I had to get a few things done first .
Next I put some motorcycle shock oil in the shocks . Disconnected the arms and pushed up and down on them till no airbubbles was herd in the resivour .
(http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x9/RockRacer1/32s1stcarshow011_zps2fa32e78.jpg)
(http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x9/RockRacer1/32s1stcarshow012_zpsc9fa6567.jpg)
Then it was time to mount the rear fenders properly . Other than one bolt .
Now theres 6 each side .
(http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x9/RockRacer1/32s1stcarshow013_zpsad9c2370.jpg)
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Now onto the fun part I've been waiting for . Front Marker lights .
Passenger side all welded up and drilled ready to mount.
(http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x9/RockRacer1/32s1stcarshow017_zps574bd1ae.jpg)
Drivers side still had the old mount I had to get off. Was glad to see the rust wasnt that bad under there and this side went a bit quicker .
(http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x9/RockRacer1/32s1stcarshow016_zps2f019f84.jpg)
So after much pondering I bought some a 3/4in LED's to install with the 1155 bulb that comes with the kit. I tried an 1157 so I could have marker and turn signal in one bulb but... it wouldnt fit (too tall). There was enough extra room inside the housing for the LED .
(http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x9/RockRacer1/32s1stcarshow018_zps06a8cbe9.jpg)
At first I worried it would be tooo bright but this is just right (3/4" amber LED).
Marker lights on.
(http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x9/RockRacer1/32s1stcarshow019_zps590f3394.jpg)
(Mounts were loose during the light testing) after mounts were tightened the gap at the bottom is gone.
(1155 clear)
Turn Signal's
They are really bright.
(http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x9/RockRacer1
/32s1stcarshow020_zps1e7ca292.jpg)
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Last friday I worked on it till about 2am. then woke up at 7 and worked again till 10:30am finishing things so I could go to my first car show.
(http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x9/RockRacer1/32s1stcarshow050_zpsd64554f8.jpg)
;D ;D ;D
(http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x9/RockRacer1/32s1stcarshow057_zps6e4d0987.jpg)
(http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x9/RockRacer1/32s1stcarshow056_zps212d1ba9.jpg)
B&W just for fun.
(http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x9/RockRacer1/32s1stcarshow049_zps5db95aad.jpg)
Man what a weight lifted off my chest getting to this point. Now time for some real fun.
8)
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Drive it into the fall season, then go at the fenders one at a time. Good looking gm body style rarely seen.
mike 8)
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Are those Coker's new radial tires that look like bias plys? If they are how do you like them?
Great progress!
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Great job! That must have been a blast going to the first car show. Nice work with the front marker lights. It's the little things that make it cool.
Tom
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looking good, I know how it feels to drive one for the first time, you have that uneasy feeling wondering if it will stay together, did you do everything right, it will get a little better each time you drive it. Looks great and enjoy it.
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I'll you car was the hit of the show. I've never seen a Pontiac of your vintage in my area. Looking great!!!
Moose
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Great job! That must have been a blast going to the first car show. Nice work with the front marker lights. It's the little things that make it cool.
Tom
It was a blast . I was smiling all day .
Drive it into the fall season, then go at the fenders one at a time. Good looking gm body style rarely seen.
mike 8)
Hopefully this winter I'll get some new rear fenders for it
Are those Coker's new radial tires that look like bias plys? If they are how do you like them?
Great progress!
They are just some old school Sears Tires that a co-worker bought new in the 90's , put 2k on em' then he decided to go hotrod
I'll you car was the hit of the show. I've never seen a Pontiac of your vintage in my area. Looking great!!!
Moose
Thanks. Only a few chevys here and a 32 Buick running around .
looking good, I know how it feels to drive one for the first time, you have that uneasy feeling wondering if it will stay together, did you do everything right, it will get a little better each time you drive it. Looks great and enjoy it.
Yes it was Scary and Fun at the same time . ;D
Now I gotta wire up the headlights (ran outta time before the car-show) and put the Mirrors on.
Pics of course when thats done .
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Lights all wired up and also made some looms to route the wires properly .
(http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x9/RockRacer1/Deathwobble005_zpse7418bbe.jpg)
Already had these done when the car was wired . They look cool all lit up .
(http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x9/RockRacer1/Deathwobble006_zpsa328889c.jpg)
The original drag-link end getting rebuilt to take care of the "Bump-steer issue" .
(http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x9/RockRacer1/Deathwobble009_zps9858b177.jpg)
Here's the rebuild kit for both ends of the drag-link and also the tool I made for the end-cap bolt.
(http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x9/RockRacer1/Deathwobble010_zps06640a31.jpg)
Spacers that go inside the spring. So I chose the one closest to the original.
(http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x9/RockRacer1/Deathwobble011_zps74645b17.jpg)
Original internals .
(http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x9/RockRacer1/Deathwobble012_zps36d3da57.jpg)
The order they get installed .
(http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x9/RockRacer1/Deathwobble013_zps20a04753.jpg)
The end-cap screw they sent me seemed to be a tiny bit smaller than the OE part and also the threads didnt match up.
I re-used the OE part . cleaned it up with a wire brush and put anti-sieze on .
(http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x9/RockRacer1/Deathwobble014_zps6d50eb4f.jpg)
All put together.
(http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x9/RockRacer1/Deathwobble016_zps1f352beb.jpg)
While I had the draglink off , I finished welding the sleeve all around and sprayed some black on .
(http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x9/RockRacer1/Deathwobble017_zpse78ee6b5.jpg)
Since I had the car out while cleaning the shop I rolled the teardrop behind the car to see if my plans for the hitch would work out . Seems all good .
(http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x9/RockRacer1/Deathwobble007_zps97673097.jpg)
(http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x9/RockRacer1/Deathwobble008_zpsb05ee82a.jpg)
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Looks like your almost ready to go out for a night on the town :D
Moose
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Nice work Rattiac There sure is not a lot of pontiac's around here But i do have a friend that is doing a 1933 Pontiac sedan delivery,and it is coming along nicely
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Lookin' good! Should tow that trailer real nice. Nice work on the front end, hope it solves your problem.
Tom
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Looking good Rattiac, don't slow down now!
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Hopefully that does fix it. Gonna try and get off work a bit early tomorrow and fix the brakelights .
I noticed my brakelights were not coming on while braking unless I pushed the pedal real hard , so while trying to adjust the lil chain that activates the switch, I broke the chain .
Fixin that, then hittin the road.
Nope not slowin down yet. Just picked me up some velcro and getting ready to sew the top up . 8)
Looks like I need to size down my pics a tiny bit .
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Alright , I need some input.
I picked up a KYB steering stabilizer kit and have 2 options on mounting it.
(Option 1);
Mount it like it says in the instructions. Wich Id have to mount hanging under the axle a bit cause on top has little clearance for supspension travel .
Mounts to I-beam and tie-rod .
It would look ugly I think but I may have to . OR
(Option 2) ;
I could mount it inline with the draglink and hide it a bit better but the angles are a bit more off .
Basically It would u-bolt to the leafspring and the other end would go to the draglink.
I already plan to spray it flat-black to hide it better.
What'cha think ???
Funny thing, is the instructions show how to mount to an I-beam axle.
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Rattiac, I don't know if this helps, but my Jeeps ran up at about a 15° angle and worked just fine. I don't know what clearance issues you have, but could you build a frame bracket like the Vette used on their power steering ram? Here is a pic of mine, I hope this may give you an idea.
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Cool that helps. Thanks.
For now Im gonna have to run it like the instructions say cause my daily driver just broke down and I gotta swap cars tonight. I'll deal with the DD this weekend.
Good thing for back-up drivers. 8)
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Well since I had this all mocked up anyway. I decided to roll with it. All I had to do was a bit of grinding on my over-done draglink sleeve . Was painted black after this pic.
Works great. DEATH WOBBLE IS GONE !!!!!!
(http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x9/RockRacer1/32s1stcarshow002_zps50c25258.jpg)
(http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x9/RockRacer1/32s1stcarshow001_zpsf75004c2.jpg)
(http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x9/RockRacer1/32s1stcarshow004_zps065b1856.jpg)
Also fixed the leakin transmission cooler (fittings) .
Decided to ditch the radidator trans cooler and used my old cooler I had laying around.
The fins were all beat up from pulling it out of the other car but I found a "fin straightener" at Lowes in the AC section and used that to fix the fins .
(http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x9/RockRacer1/32s1stcarshow014_zpsda77d123.jpg)
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Of course my Mtn Dew bottle wasnt big enuf to hold coolant so I used a Tequilla bottle mounted to the firewall to break up some of the blank spot there.
(http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x9/RockRacer1/32s1stcarshow015_zpsa5a731e0.jpg)
Started mocking up the top. Getting it all ready to sew.
(http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x9/RockRacer1/32s1stcarshow006_zps5071e2ab.jpg)
(http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x9/RockRacer1/32s1stcarshow003_zps7130e18d.jpg)
Started marking where I was going to put snaps.
(http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x9/RockRacer1/32s1stcarshow007_zpsfd768b88.jpg)
Also using some industrial velcro with the snaps.
(http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x9/RockRacer1/32s1stcarshow009_zps4ac18409.jpg)
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All marks cleaned off and ready for snaps.
(http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x9/RockRacer1/32s1stcarshow008_zps51e4f82e.jpg)
I put a snap up front to hold the front down and if I ever roll the top up I can snap it here to keep it from unrolling.
(http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x9/RockRacer1/32s1stcarshow010_zpsa467ded0.jpg)
Snaps on .
(http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x9/RockRacer1/32s1stcarshow016_zpsd6ad8d4d.jpg)
Here's an inside view along with my new steering wheel cover so my hands dont turn black while driving.
(http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x9/RockRacer1/32s1stcarshow011_zps73a64f74.jpg)
.
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Ive been driving this car all last week and the stabilizer worked perfect.
No bump steer (or D.W) at all. I loved driving it , good fun . Steering is a bit stiffer when turning at low speed but I need some muscle burn anyhow .
Wish I had the top done then, cause I could have avoided a good sunburn . Just finished it up tonight. I'll probably give it a break for a week or two and do some yard stuff I've been putting off but I may sneak in a carshow sometime these next 2 weeks.
Forgot to throw in this pic of the top all rolled up (low speed cruising only) .
(http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x9/RockRacer1/32s1stcarshow017_zps83335917.jpg)
Yes its BEER 30 .
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no more death wobble !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
fantastic....! mike 8)
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Glad to hear the death wobble is gone! Nice work on the top. I like the way you can roll it up to make a sun roof out of it. Cool car!
Tom
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That car is so cool and I bet a blast to drive, Nice job.
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I agree with the other guys ....Your doing a super job and the car is looking great. It's too bad you had to throw out all of that good Tequila to make your coolant bottle....You did through it out right???
Moose
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Thanks everyone . It sure is fun to drive. Now with the top on I can see out the back windows . I took it on a highway near home thats speed limit is 55mph. It drove well and I took it up a bit faster to see how it handled. Speedo said 70 but I'll have to GPS it to see how accurate that is.
Yesterday I picked up a (wide-angle ) rearview mirror. Not factory but I modified it a bit to work with the original mount. Its good to see behind me now. I'd hate to be that jerk in the ratrod cutting people off .
Today I called the filling station and ordered a wiper arm and 8" blade.
Still have a list of things I havent got done yet.
1.) Hook up E-brake cables
2.) Replace rear leafspring bushings at the shackle. I think I may have some from my jeep supply.
3.) Hook up hose for drain at the cowl vent.
4.) Go over every nut and bolt (double check) so I can plan a longer trip before winter hits .
5.) Plan a trip with some dirt roads (pony exspress or other) .
6.) fix rear windows that rattle .
It took me awhile to get thru that tequilla bottle, but no it didnt get thrown out. I dont drink much but im working on it. ;D
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The car looks great, you have done a ton of work quick! I like the top, it's pretty cool. From your pictures it look slike you switched from tequila to Bud :P
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Look'n goood man! Sure glad your wobble is gone. Ah the shake down, I aways went through all checks, then had my buddy Tom go over it. He usually didn't find anything but on occasion he would, nice to have a second pair of eyes sometimes.
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I really like what you have done with this car. You have built yourself a fun driver without getting bogged down in a bunch of nit picky cosmetic stuff. It looks like a ride with some history while being eye catching at the same time. What are your interior plans. With all that good wood I think showing it off would be cool. Good work and thanks for sharing it with us. It is inspiring.
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Yeah, that was a victory beer for getting the top done. 8)
I noticed people talk about how the wood survived this long (somewhat) at the last carshow.
They seem to like the originallity of the wood. :)
Brought yall back some pics from that. Soon as I get some more build pics.
So far no interior plans yet. other than replacing the wood with steel, but that wont be till this next winter. I may put down some carpet and try to seal off the engine bay (from the cabin) better.
I found a carshow in the next month that does a cruise up a mountain road (paved) about 20-30- miles. Ive camped there before and want to try this. Its about 40+ miles south of here to get there and then the cruise. So I convinced the woman to go and its a plan.
So Ive gotta do some creature comforts inside. Basically so we dont smell like car when we jump out . :o
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I put a wiper on and had to bend it a bit differently than this pic to get it to hold against the windshield.
(http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x9/RockRacer1/Magna2014-081_zps130ff699.jpg)
I found these wiper motors in the garage when we moved in and thought I may use one in the future. Checked and only one worked.
It would work, but I dont like how I would have to mount it .
(http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x9/RockRacer1/Magna2014-082_zps0feb75b5.jpg)
So I made a little manual handle for temparary .
(http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x9/RockRacer1/Magna2014-080_zpscbf255be.jpg)
Im not liking my mirror mount so I making new mounts .
(http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x9/RockRacer1/Magna2014-083_zps6d5511fd.jpg)
Much better, and I dont have to bend anything.
(http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x9/RockRacer1/Magna2014-084_zpse1073e3f.jpg)
Oh and I re-calibrated my speedometer . When I was doing 40 the GPS said 33mph . 7mph over .
I though it was reading miles kinda fast.
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Monday morning I packed up the car and headed to the labor day carshow its about 20 miles from my house. I took what we call (baccus hwy - "back-a$$" ) accross town . Speed limits 60mph on here.
The car did great except on uneven sections of blacktop then its kinda hairy (bias plys) .
It stayed cool 180* till it was a crawl then it would go up. So going this way was almost a straight shot .
Top did well also. Didnt ballon-up like I thought it might. Stayed nice and tight. No noise from it either.
Carshow was awesome , about 300 cars showed. I got there early and found a spot near trees but also brought my pop-up shade thingy .
Here's some pics I promised ya .
(these 2 are from another CS a few weeks ago)
(http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x9/RockRacer1/Magna2014-011_zpsaa06c161.jpg)
(http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x9/RockRacer1/Magna2014-019_zpsd954cde6.jpg)
Labor day pics. 8)
Something shiney.
(http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x9/RockRacer1/Magna2014-067_zps838f492c.jpg)
(http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x9/RockRacer1/Magna2014-066_zps34624c5a.jpg)
I tend to dig the military stuff.
(http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x9/RockRacer1/Magna2014-049_zps0453d472.jpg)
Somethig rusty and big.
(http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x9/RockRacer1/Magna2014-032_zpsaa148e21.jpg)
Love the handles .
(http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x9/RockRacer1/Magna2014-030_zpsb1fa7258.jpg)
Something about lots of chrome and black and white photos I like.
(http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x9/RockRacer1/Magna2014-044_zps7f004194.jpg)
(http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x9/RockRacer1/Magna2014-043_zpsf8f3bd9f.jpg)
I saw this a few years back and he's done alot of improvments since then . Great car .
(http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x9/RockRacer1/Magna2014-023_zps4a4e98b4.jpg)
Since I was out this way and it was so close I payed some respects to a few family members.
This is their view everyday.
(http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x9/RockRacer1/Magna2014-074_zps1505af51.jpg)
On my way home I decided to take her out a bit further and went up a local canyon.
Up at the top cooling down. (looks like an abandoned car pic) ;D
(http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x9/RockRacer1/Magna2014-075_zps52df5469.jpg)
Drivers view. (dont try this at home)
(http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x9/RockRacer1/Magna2014-077_zps601d9fc5.jpg)
Found a cool lil dirt road with a small stream to cross . Poser pic..
(http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x9/RockRacer1/Magna2014-076_zps636e4dc9.jpg)
Played with some editing on this pic .
(http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x9/RockRacer1/Magna2014-076_zpse192299e.jpg)
What a great day it was and got to do some higher speed testing . Love it. 8)
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Cool, looks like ya had a good time. I'm jealous, maybe next year for me.
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Yup...Looks like you had a great day. Thanks for posting all of those pictures...I really like that Plymouth coupe.
Moose
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Rattiac looking great, sure wish mine was that far ahead, Anyways you enjoy the car shows summer is almost gone.
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Nice job. I so want to hit some back roads on a long ride.
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That's why we build 'em! I almost forgot, Thanks. 8)
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The other day I OFFICIALLY calibrated my speedometer . Before I went off a MPH sign that warns you when speeding, but that wasnt fully correct and I had it backwards when I set it (re-read the instructions) . I barrowed a (fully charged) GPS and it read 75 at 60mph :o .
Its correct now and can definatly tell it has 3.73's .
I felt brave enough driving it lately that I took it on the freeway to go visit the car-club at thier ususal meeting place on sundays.
Wooo, hoooo 65mph was a blast.
People next to me taking pictures and such. I also noticed I was givin plenty of room when changin lanes and no tailgaters . ;D This is one car that has to have full attention on the steering-wheel, no distrations, no talking on the cell because of the bias tires but no biggie I like it.
Picked me up a small 2.5in Tachometer. Its black and non racy lookin as to not draw attention away from the classic gauges . Its mounted and will be wiring that up this week .
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Tach all mounted and wired. Guess I really have 3.73's now. The tach reads 3,000rpms when at 60.
(http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x9/RockRacer1/Magna2014-004_zpse86c89e7.jpg)
Mirror brackets done. Its nice to have 2 mirrors and be able to see around the car.
(http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x9/RockRacer1/Magna2014-003_zps79716b77.jpg)
I almost for got about these Pontiac center caps , I had them stashed for so long.
(http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x9/RockRacer1/Magna2014-002_zpsee717c2c.jpg)
Took a pic at about 11pm. So I kept the shutter speed open for 6 seconds to produce this creepy night pic.
(http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x9/RockRacer1/Magna2014-001_zps8b15350a.jpg)
Also put a new rubber hose for the drain on the cowl vent so it dont drip on my feet anymore.
.
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I like that night picture....Looks like you driving out of the jaws of hell :D
Moose
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Nice ride! Glad you're getting some miles on it. That night picture is cool!
Tom
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Looks like car-show season here is done and time to park it for the winter.
After my Opher trip it looks like I need to tighten a trans cooler line and get some new header bolts also gonna have to paint the headers while Im doin that .
But first ........... I need to clean the damn shop. I just been having too much fun driving around enjoying all that work put into her .
So OFFICIALLY I have to say Phase # 1 is done (getting it drivable) .
I'll throw this pic in here to end the season with. 8)
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Went back and reread some of your post here and it looks like you are having a great time with your car, glad to see your enjoying it
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Sounds like a plan, Rattiac. But don't go away, there's plenty to do over the winter and plenty to post, right guys?
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Working thru the winter months is when I get most of my work done.
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Oh no Im not goin away. Still have a ton of things to do but no moola for now.
I still never got my e-brake cables hooked up and Hitch for the TD built, also the rear leafspring bushings need to be done with probably more I can do over the winter. Already have that stuff so its free .
I really wanted to do some steelwork inside replacing the wood but not sure if that'll get done during this winter .
Maybe throw in a couple drives as well and still havent done a big-ass burnout either .
Hmmm, to be continued .......
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Get your priorities straight!!!! The burnout goes at the top of the list.
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;D
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I shifted gears a bit and decided to fix the leaky hatch on the teardrop . When I bought this I knew it needed a new hatch but the price was right.
Hatch rebuild.
Here's a look at the hinge . Not my work.
That needs to go. Im putting in the proper hinge . Called a Hurricane Hinge.
(http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x9/RockRacer1/TDhatch001_zps7cfe0397.jpg)
By , by old hatch.
I may be able to re-use some of the white aluminum for repairs for the lower section.
(http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x9/RockRacer1/TDhatch007_zps40b7ea45.jpg)
Looking under the old hatch is was badly done. Big gaps where the cross supports were cut too short. Spacers between the trim and body.
This thing flexed like a jeep going through a rock garden . ;D
(http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x9/RockRacer1/IMG_20141203_190815_573_zpscf1cb7a2.jpg)
Built the new frame .
Dont mind all the camping gear . It gets used as storage for winter months.
Almost no flex with this frame..
(http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x9/RockRacer1/IMG_20141130_145339_974_zpsd0b50681.jpg)
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Hatch rebuild part 2;
This upper section needs to be replaced because screw holes.
(http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x9/RockRacer1/IMG_20141203_184815_029_zps6f1d00ea.jpg)
The lower section below the hatch needs replaced as well. Also removing the 1/4" wood so the hatch is flush. Gonna put new aluminum all the way down to the bottom of the frame .
(http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x9/RockRacer1/IMG_20141130_151644_761_zps3c17212e.jpg)
I cut 3/8" from the wall to make the hatch flush.
(http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x9/RockRacer1/TDhatch005_zps3812ac82.jpg)
Hatch is skinned with 1/8" birch plywood. Grain going sideways make the wood bend easier .
(http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x9/RockRacer1/IMG_20141204_215807_627_zps67393220.jpg)
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The new Hurricane hinge mounted up for mock-up. Most builders let the hinge overhange the body by about 3/8" to create a drip edge away from the body. Im gonna do 1" . Its overkill but oh well.
(http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x9/RockRacer1/IMG_20141206_185951_333_zpse50d2597.jpg)
Up and down travel works good . I have a pair of old rear hatch shocks from a cherokee that should work perfect for this .
(http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x9/RockRacer1/IMG_20141206_183837_533_zps9fd36228.jpg)
Now im just waiting on aluminunm and trim . ::)
.
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interesting that the hinge your using, that your calling a HURRICANE HINGE, is the same type design as a 1933---1935 Chevrolet hood hinge minus the rivet holes.
Where did you obtain that and is it made of aluminum ????
mike............. 8)
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Mike I got mine at an auto recycler .It was off of a cap on the back of some old Dodge truck with a camper in the box, But i do believe that any outdoor trailer place carry these,They are used to attach tables to the sides of trailers and motorhomes.They also use a very similar piece to attach awnings to the sides of trailers and yes they are made of aluminum,
As far as letting it stick out beyond the edge of the trailer. That is looking for trouble or an awfully sore head--OUCH vette59jdwl
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Here's a link for ya mike . http://www.teardrops.net/teardroptrailerparts.html
I may trim it back a bit and round off the edges . I'll give it a water test once its done and see how the water behaves dropping off that .
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Rattiac under the end of the kitchen trunk lid is suppose to be a rubber to seal the lid with the edge of the sides therefore diverting water or any rain out away from the seal and prevent moisture from entering the living area. vette59jdwl
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Yea. I havent got to that point yet. Still waiting on trim/aluminum.
When I get there I'll pull the a/c and stick my head in there when the hatch is closed to see where I need to seal it better . Hopefully i'll have parts in a week or two . Its winter but I wanna go camping.
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Yea. I havent got to that point yet. Still waiting on trim/aluminum.
When I get there I'll pull the a/c and stick my head in there when the hatch is closed to see where I need to seal it better . Hopefully i'll have parts in a week or two . Its winter but I wanna go camping.
Hope you want to head to Arizona or florida to do the camping.
mike 8) 8) 8) 8) ;D ;D ;D ;D
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I sure do like Apache Junction Az, lots of fishing lots of hot rods lots of car guys and not to far from Yuma lol lol vette59jdwl
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Found me some correct size mirrors . I'll have one as an extra.
They came from some sun-visors I had reupholstered .
(http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x9/RockRacer1/IMG_20150109_190716_896_zps13ca2616.jpg)
Also found a Hood Ornament .
(http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x9/RockRacer1/IMG_20150109_190415_919_zpsd2c7ef46.jpg)
.
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THATS A FANTASTIC RADIATOR MASCOT.
love it
mike 8)
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perfect pontiac mascot. I am still looking for a nice one for the Buick. I would love to find a flapper girl from the roaring 20s
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Yes sir ieee Now it is a genuine Tin Indian and people will not have to ask Sir what kind of car is that .... DAH
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Love the Native American. :o I'm looking for just the right flying lady for my roadster.
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Thanks everyone. Im just glad to cover the hole up. :o
This guy makes all sorts of hood ornaments. Im sure he can make something for ya .
I like this one. Its kinda funny .
http://www.ebay.com/itm/middle-finger-flip-off-ratrod-hotrod-motorcycle-car-hood-ornament-/321637467138?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4ae3164402
Teardrop Update;;;;;;;;
I have all my materials in the shop ready to go on (aluminum, trim, glue, screws , diamond plate).
Hoopefully this weekend I can crank it out.
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Rattiac I just searched Pontiac hood ornaments and man these people are crazy they are trying to get rich quick lol lol they will surely be there a long long time Now there were two at a decent price inclosed are pics wayner
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Thanks everyone. Im just glad to cover the hole up. :o
This guy makes all sorts of hood ornaments. Im sure he can make something for ya .
I like this one. Its kinda funny .
http://www.ebay.com/itm/middle-finger-flip-off-ratrod-hotrod-motorcycle-car-hood-ornament-/321637467138?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4ae3164402
Teardrop Update;;;;;;;;
That guy on ebay has some GREAT hood ornaments. I never thought about putting one on my car...............but I'm thinking about it now
I have all my materials in the shop ready to go on (aluminum, trim, glue, screws , diamond plate).
Hoopefully this weekend I can crank it out.
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After looking at some caps. I think i'll just make a round plate and bolt it to that .
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Na Rattiac you need something that says look at me I AM A PONTIAC I am a Tin Indian
vette59jdwl
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Rattiac Go to GOOGLE and type in Pontiac hood ornaments there are hundreds of choices from the big finger to the duck from the eagle to a kangaroo of all things lol lol fill your boots vette59jdwl
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What I meant was . I gotta come up with something to bolt my ornament to, cause there is just a hole where the original radiator cap was.
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OK why not just get a rad cap to fit your car and drill it and put your mascot onto the cap,,,I take it you have another rad behind the grill shell and have a modern rad cap is this so vette59jdwl
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Back to the teardrop for ; Part 3 of the hatch rebuild . and then some.......
While I had the hatch off and was checking things out.
I decided to just re-trim the whole thing as I didnt like the shoddy trim on there. You'll see why .
(http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x9/RockRacer1/IMG_20150119_184248_971_zps0f4bfad2.jpg)
And a section that was in 2 pieces . ::)
(http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x9/RockRacer1/IMG_20150119_184300_920_zps1b07720a.jpg)
It all had to come off.
.
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I agree with your decision to replace the trim, Rattiac. It would bug me every time I looked at it.
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So after searching a few RV places for trim . I couldnt find what I wanted and the stuff I liked was expensive OR way toooo much to ship in . :o
Plus I needed something that would screw in from the sides and not on top .
Putting screws on the top (like RV trim) I didnt like cause they would be going into the edge of the wood (side-walls) so they wouldnt be that strong of a hold.
I decided to make my own trim . Which means I'd have to (anneal it) to bend it .
Using some stair-trim in 12ft lengths . I started the "annealing process" .
(http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x9/RockRacer1/IMG_20150119_191241_276_zps978124b6.jpg)
On the teardrop site I found a few things on annealing and was told by a friend to use
magic-marker for a temperature stick of sorts.
Long story short . Heat the sides of the trim with a propane torch till the magic-marker burns off completely . I held it there just a few minutes longer till I could feel/see the trim bending .
I did this in 3 short 1 inch sections between the screw holes to spread the load evenly.
While bending 3 little kinks appeared and I smaked them down with a (plastic Deadblow hammer)
You can feel the aluminum stretch a bit . but I did not hit the top of the trim since it was round on top but if it was flat ya can hit there also.
After my first 2 bends I was getting the hang of it .
(http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x9/RockRacer1/IMG_20150119_200011_257_zpsb21fc4e2.jpg)
Once all the bending was done I pulled the trim back off and cleaned where it was hit with the deadblow hammer using a light grit scotchbrite pad and some wax&grease remover .
(warning dont use a steel hammer cause it will leave scrapes, dents, ect)
Before putting the trim back on I used putty tape and some white Polyeurathane to seal things up.
(http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x9/RockRacer1/IMG_20150127_200445_400_zps4e1b22d5.jpg)
Trim on and all sealed up .
(http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x9/RockRacer1/IMG_20150119_184228_776_zpsdc6cff03.jpg)
.
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Another trim shot.
(http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x9/RockRacer1/IMG_20150125_171948_353_zps64fd2d50.jpg)
While letting the polyeurathane dry I skinned the hatch and mounted the hurricane hinge.
(http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x9/RockRacer1/IMG_20150125_171805_694_zps0c0be65e.jpg)
Hatch mounted and sealed .
(http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x9/RockRacer1/IMG_20150128_215822_261_zps15d687be.jpg)
Glad to see it back together but still need to trim the hatch and the area below it .
Thats todays project. ;D
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That looks great, Rattiac. Alot cheaper and much more satisfaction :)
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It does look a lot better than what was there
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Finished the hatch trim just a few minutes ago and put some diamond-plate down near the bottom to cap off the aluminum at the frame.
All sealed up but just a few small things like the hatch lock w/ handle , and some rubber weatherstripping underneath .
Also sending out a diamond-plate sheet to get bent for the front tomorrow .
Man im tired , im goin to bed . 8)
(http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x9/RockRacer1/IMG_20150210_215658_180_zps704336a3.jpg)
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Rattiac back to your mascott hood ornament. One time along time ago ,i wanted to put three branch spinners on my wheels,so what i did was to measure the hole size and then i cut a circle out of 1/4 inch alluminum and i made that circle 1/4 of an inch larger than the hole .I put a 1/4 inch hole in the center and then put that circle on the inside so it would fill the hole and with the 1/4 inch hole i could attach something to the other side in other words the top. or the ornament then tighten the screw from inside to tighten this all up.Putting a gasket wetween the top of the radiator and the ornament is optional vette59jdwl
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Nice job. I'd like to have my camp trailer ready for Bonneville this year but probably not. :(
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That teardrop looks real nice, Rattiac. I'm not allowed to have another car right now :'(, I wonder how my wife would feel about a trailer ;)
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How about a Vespa or Lambretta? 8)
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Chopper and I had a conversation about him and his wife not letting him have another car right now and from what I gathered from our conversation she won't be to keen on the ideal of him having a trailer either. Just kidding Chopper :)
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Trim and trailer look great! Nice work :D
Tom
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Chopper and I had a conversation about him and his wife not letting him have another car right now and from what I gathered from our conversation she won't be to keen on the ideal of him having a trailer either. Just kidding Chopper :)
62131, she might let me have the trailer, she'll just want me to sleep in it!
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Chopper and I had a conversation about him and his wife not letting him have another car right now and from what I gathered from our conversation she won't be to keen on the ideal of him having a trailer either. Just kidding Chopper :)
62131, she might let me have the trailer, she'll just want me to sleep in it!
Chopper you might want to rethink wanting a trailer, I'm sure the winters are cold in Philly :)
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Thanks guys . I was hoping to do more like cabinets, paint the inside and finish the galley but kinda running outta time. I'll probably put those off till later this summer after a few trips . Funny how that happens. I start re-doing the hatch then it turned into a whole re-trim . At least the leaks will be gone .
Thanks vette ; for the mascot advice , I'll be getting back to that maybe next week .
Sixball; I Still never been to speedweek (done world of speed) I gotta make that happen this year.
Maybe could do a meet-up there. How far ya from the saltflats ?
The only bad-news I have is from the taxman. Taxes were a bit short this time .
So it looks like no new steering box this year >:(
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Rattiac if you are interested drop me a line lave@cogeco and i will show you how i built mine It was 2004 and great theropy for me I built a teardrop for my daughter .But i sure had to try it out vette59jdwl
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Thats a nice trailer ya got there vette . I'll hit ya up soon.
Front diamond plate all mounted and sealed .
(http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x9/RockRacer1/IMG_20150222_181329_356_zps5e25e916.jpg)
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Very nice, I'm assuming that is aluminum?......and I like the flag.
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Yea. It need some protection from all the gravel roads I travel on. ;D
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Hood Ornament on.... ;D ;D ;D
(http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x9/RockRacer1/IMG_20150225_221319_zpsux5qg0co.jpg)
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^^^^^^^
I Like It!!!
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Yup...Looks real good!!
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I like it, and the patina of the grill looks good with it also.
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PERFECT!!!!!!!!!!!
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Mentioned this before..picked up a 33 Master mascot on eBay for $40 that was painted red to cover the pitting (looked bad). I dropped it in a can of carburetor cleaner.....sanded some pitting off and tried powder coating for the first time..first a coating of chrome powder..then a clear coat. The clear coat dulls out the chrome look...this was done 3-4 years ago..I'll redo it when the car is ready for the road since the chrome powder coating technology has improved. Acceptable for a street rod.
Ed
(http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a383/EdJacobi/eagle.jpg) (http://s15.photobucket.com/user/EdJacobi/media/eagle.jpg.html)
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Ed that looks like the 400 dollar ones the thieves want just because its 32 or 33.That is one good looking rad ornament wish i could find one for the 32 at a good price but they are way out of my line. I( would rather put a ford one up there pee them off lol waynjer vette59jdwl ps got to go plow snow
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Ed that looks like the 400 dollar ones the thieves want just because its 32 or 33.That is one good looking rad ornament wish i could find one for the 32 at a good price but they are way oput of my line. I( would rather put a for5d one up there pee them off lol waynjer vette59jdwl ps got to go plow snow
Check these out:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Art-Deco-Hood-Ornament-Radiator-Cap-Chevrolet-Eagle-1930s-1931-1932-/161607916261?pt=Vintage_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item25a0951ae5&vxp=mtr
New one:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1931-1932-CHEVROLET-ACCESSORY-EAGLE-RADIATOR-ORNAMENT-CAP-NEW/321676885894?_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D28772%26meid%3D978c34b47a0d448099a6be7f3557e50f%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D3%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D161607916261&rt=nc
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its brand new, its reproduction, its flawless. At $169 ? its a no brainer. You could not find 7 buy an original and get it replated for anywhere near that $$$$$.
nothing wrong with that price and the guy has sold 750 of them.
mike.......................... 8)
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its brand new, its reproduction, its flawless. At $169 ? its a no brainer. You could not find 7 buy an original and get it replated for anywhere near that $$$$$.
nothing wrong with that price and the guy has sold 750 of them.
mike.......................... 8)
Check out this Canadian guy (same ornament)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1931-Chevrolet-Eagle-Radiator-Mascot-Cap-Hood-Ornament-NEW-/231487197101?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_210&hash=item35e5b64fad
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its brand new, its reproduction, its flawless. At $169 ? its a no brainer. You could not find 7 buy an original and get it replated for anywhere near that $$$$$.
nothing wrong with that price and the guy has sold 750 of them.
mike.......................... 8)
Check out this Canadian guy (same ornament)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1931-Chevrolet-Eagle-Radiator-Mascot-Cap-Hood-Ornament-NEW-/231487197101?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_210&hash=item35e5b64fad
uote author=madmike3434 link=topic=545.msg11776#msg11776 date=1424990340] I believe he's fishing trying to hook a sucker :o
its brand new, its reproduction, its flawless. At $169 ? its a no brainer. You could not find 7 buy an original and get it replated for anywhere near that $$$$$.
nothing wrong with that price and the guy has sold 750 of them.
mike.......................... 8)
Check out this Canadian guy (same ornament)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1931-Chevrolet-Eagle-Radiator-Mascot-Cap-Hood-Ornament-NEW-/231487197101?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_210&hash=item35e5b64fad
[/quote]
I believe he's fishing trying to hook a sucker :o :o
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Ok guys i am going to show you my hood ornament I do not want any of you showing this to your wives , they are likely to have a hissy fit It's a one of a kind .I call this My Royal Dalton Hood Ornament I thought i posted this all ready but i can not find it anywhere lol lol vette59jdwl
PS I beg to be different something like Radiac lol lol I am wore out from plowing and the good lord is sending me more cold so i am going to have a BEER day tomorrow
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Wayne....looks like you have been tapping into that strong Canadian beer a little early ;D ;D ;D ;D
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HA HA, that's awesome, Vette. Do her eyes light up?
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When i woke up this am i thought i had died and gone to heaven all i could see was stars,and then i realized I had sleep in my eyes and beer in my tummy,my eyes were shut and then i realized where i was. It was minus 25 at 730 this morning and that was without the wind chill factor counted in.I am trying to figure out what we did to deserve this ,or if maybe the planet shifted and how to shift it back,and no her eyes don't light up,but the wife's sure did when she fist layed eyes on it, and yes i ducked. I told here i would get her a new one.I thought she was going to cry,so i gave her the hole thing to rad cap and all so she could put it back on the fireplace mantel. vette59jdwl
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Odered me up some of those Stage 8 Locking header bolts from summit . When I get those in I'll pull the headers and paint em' (factory paint burned off) . ;D
The wood holding up the back window broke and partially fell down ::) . Sounds like a good steel project . Gotta start somewhere.
Went to my first carshow this year and there was a 30' Oakland , and a 32 buick parked a few spots away . 8)
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Worked on my oil leak today. New gaskets are in and will be torquing it down tomorrow before heading to a cruise-in .
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Rattiac your driving the old girl to hard and your going to shake all that old wood out of the old girl.You could get some git rot and place the wood back to hold up the window and cover all the wood with this git rot It should hold the old girl together if you just slow down a bit and avoid all those ruts in the road lol lol vette59jdwl
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Ive got a few pieces of 1" square already bent up, I just have to get doing it. Having too much fun driving her around . 8)
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Ive got a few pieces of 1" square already bent up, I just have to get doing it. Having too much fun driving her around . 8)
It is hard to get any work done on them when you're having so much fun driving it around :)
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The trick is to put the car down so that it can't be driven unless you complete the particular job. That's motivation!
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Ive got a few things that will require that here shortly .
Ive been chasing down my oil leak thats been getting all over the passenger side header and hood/fender. After using some oil dye I found out I have 3 oil leaks all in the same area.
This motor has an external oil pump . which I like .
1.) has been coming from the big bolt on the upper left.
2.) is the main gasket for the oil pump .
3.) is the oil pressure sending unit (upper right) chrome looking thing.
4th is the filter but it just needed tightening .
(http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x9/RockRacer1/IMG_20150525_190218_203_zpsvyf6jylh.jpg)
After I was sure the leaks were sealed I gave her an oil change for the year .
Tomorrow she gets a bath . 8)
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Went to a car show today and am very happy to say .
NO MORE OIL LEAKS . Not one drop under the car. 8)
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Did the rear bushings before I went on the trip. It was badly needed .
(http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x9/RockRacer1/Phone%20pics%20%201%20295_zps0hh3mvz8.jpg)
Got a bit creative installing them .
(http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x9/RockRacer1/Phone%20pics%20%201%20293_zpsmqyop4ww.jpg)
Also picked up a spare wheel . Almost didnt find one but I looked under a few wheels at a junkyard and found exactly what I have (15x7 from a caprice) "the deep wheel".
Even the owner of the junkyard said these are getting rare around here.
Couldnt find a tire in time . So I barrowed my dads spare for the trip.
(http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x9/RockRacer1/Phone%20pics%20%201%20311_zpsej9gnfbk.jpg)
I must say the car rode sooooooo much better with the new bushings.
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In my free-free time I have been working on making a video . Most of the editing is done just gotta get some footage I have added on .
Hopefully it'll be done by winter.
Rusty-Bowtie-ers will be the first to see it . 8)
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Hooked up the custom e-brake cables I had made a year or so ago.
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This just came in this morning. Reversed Corvair steering box and pitman arm.
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Rattiac you keep going at it, you will be at freeway speeds before you know it! ;D
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Keep it coming enjoy watching the progress
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Finally put in the passenger window, just had to get the old protective film off first. Took forever.
Used silicone to glue the window to the slider channel. Holds well. Roll's up and down.
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Well, its the end of the season. I gotta burn up some guzzaline this week before it gets put away and put down for some construction this winter (maybe next summer too) .
So far Ive completed all the goals I had for the car , been to almost all the places I wanted to go and since she's proved she's street worthy . Its time to start fixing the steering and replacing the wood frame .
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Did the rear bushings before I went on the trip. It was badly needed .
(http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x9/RockRacer1/Phone%20pics%20%201%20295_zps0hh3mvz8.jpg)
Got a bit creative installing them .
(http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x9/RockRacer1/Phone%20pics%20%201%20293_zpsmqyop4ww.jpg)
Also picked up a spare wheel . Almost didnt find one but I looked under a few wheels at a junkyard and found exactly what I have (15x7 from a caprice) "the deep wheel".
Even the owner of the junkyard said these are getting rare around here.
Couldnt find a tire in time . So I barrowed my dads spare for the trip.
(http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x9/RockRacer1/Phone%20pics%20%201%20311_zpsej9gnfbk.jpg)
I must say the car rode sooooooo much better with the new bushings.
Rattiac, I was going over some old posts, and I want to ask you about the rear shackle bushings. Did you use rubber or nylon bushings and what is your trick? I used rubber on mine and they were a bixch!! They never went in quite they way I wanted or expected, and thay are already starting to check and split. Thanks! Jim
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I used a big long bolt and some washers/spacers I had, a impact gun and wrench . The spring guy that lives by me told me to use anti-sieze but it didnt work very well (he is in sales) . Id probably use some silicone spray or WD, white lithium grease or other spray to help lube it in.
One already cracked/split when I got home but no biggie since I'll be getting new leafs in the spring/summer. Still rollin on original leafs in the back. :o
My Left rear leaf is a bit flatter than my R.R. and the car leans to the left a tad.
If you can find some polyurathane bushings. They go in alot easier , just using a hammer.
I have a pair for back-ups that go to a jeep that would work with just a tad of grinding . If you have a Jeep shop or 4 wheel Parts by ya . CJ7 bushings work for our old cars.
Around here if you say its for a hotrod , they tell ya they cant find it or want too much $$$ .
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Just picked up this H/V metal band saw. For this winters project. Seems to cut straight and works for what I need.
Just gonna make a better table for it to make vertical cuts easier and get a better blade.
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is there any provision for a liquid coolant for the blade. ???
The one a friend and I repaired didn't and we could not see the blade lasting very long. Unless you used tapping fluid, but that would use a lot of $15 a small can.
mike 8)
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I mounted my H/V saw on a frame as I only use it as a band saw. I made a larger table for it and it works great.
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I got to wondering if you made some sort of drain pan under the blade or under the whole setup with a small pump set up to direct or spray (say) transmission fluid on the blade does not have to be much just something to prevent the saw blade from burning up or binding up Harbor Freight should have some ideas in the Hydraulick department. Used transmission fluid is real cheap around here (FREE) is the word .What i do is drain it through one of those old chevy filters that use to hang off of the manifolds. vette59jdwl
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For all you band saw users just a note.....
band saw lubrication
on the Suffolk web site they offer the following advice
CHOOSING THE PROPER BAND SAW BLADE LUBRICATION
NEVER USE WATER as a lubricant on band saw blades. Water is NOT a lubricant and is the WRONG thing to use for many reasons.
For the woodworker using 1" and 1 1/4" bands, not only is water unacceptable as a lubricant, but it also rusts the bands causing deep pitting, and inappropriate chip swelling. This prematurely destroys the body of the band and its gullets. It also dry rots your tires or V-belts.
For proper lubrication mix HIGH ADHESION CHAIN SAW BAR OIL, with 50% kerosene or diesel fuel. Apply the solution with a spray bottle to BOTH sides of the band about once every four minutes, while the machine is running. When this lubrication is applied, the sound of cutting decreases over 50%. DO NOT APPLY AGAIN until the sound of cutting starts increasing. I guarantee you will be amazed! Longer life; No pitch buildup; No rusted or pitted bands! A great delivery system is the 12 volt windshield washer assembly out of an old car!
"Pam" spray-on vegetable shortening is a great lubrication for 3/4" WIDTH AND UNDER band saw blades on vertical saws. (EXAMPLE: Delta, Grizzly, Jet, etc.) Unplug the machine. Spray Pam vegetable shortening on a rag and wipe on both sides of the blade while turning the upper wheel by hand. You will hear a 50% sound reduction when cutting.
A band saw blade is a tool.
You must lubricate both sides!
In both cases, we know for a fact that lubrication of the body of the band increases band life by over 30%. Applied sparingly, you can cut grade lumber with NO staining to your product.
vette59jdwl
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background information on canola oil
Canola is one of two cultivars of rapeseed or Brassica campestris (Brassica napus L. and B. campestris L.).[1] Their seeds are used to produce edible oil that is fit for human consumption because it has lower levels of erucic acid than traditional rapeseed oils and to produce livestock feed because it has reduced levels of the toxic glucosinolates.[2] Canola was originally naturally bred from rapeseed in Canada by Keith Downey and Baldur R. Stefansson in the early 1970s,[3][4] but it has a very different nutritional profile in addition to much less erucic acid.[5] The name "canola" was derived from "Canadian oil, low acid" in 1978.[6][7] A product known as LEAR (for low erucic acid rapeseed) derived from cross-breeding of multiple lines of Brassica juncea is also referred to as canola oil and is considered safe for consumption.[8]
Canola was developed through conventional plant breeding from rapeseed, an oilseed plant already used in ancient civilization. The word "rape" in rapeseed comes from the Latin word "rapum," meaning turnip. Turnip, rutabaga, cabbage, Brussels sprouts, mustard and many other vegetables are related to the two canola varieties commonly grown, which are cultivars of Brassica napus and Brassica rapa. The negative associations due to the homophone "rape" resulted in creation of the more marketing-friendly name "Canola". The change in name also serves to distinguish it from regular rapeseed oil, which has much higher erucic acid content.
In the United kingdom one of the cooking oils available is rapeseed oil.From reading the information above taken from Wikipedia it would seem sensible to suggest that the canola oil in the USA. may be the same as the rapeseed oil sold as a cooking oil in the United kingdom
You should be able to use any non-stick aerosol cooking spray. Look at the ingrediants. Its a component called lecithin that provides the non-stick action. The type of oil used is not relevant.
n the US, PAM is made with vegetable oil, olive oil, canola oil and maybe other oils too.
There are other generic brands of non-stick cooking oil available and all work about the same in both cooking and lubricating. vette59jdwl
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Cool table TFoch . 8)
I need to also make a safety cover for the blade. The previous owner removed it for some stupid reason. :o
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Today I had to take a trailer load to the dump and asked if they could weigh my car. After dropping the trailer off, I jumped in the car and went back.
3100lbs.
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Im getting ready to start on the steering box swap. There is one thing im concerned about. Id like to know what the original box turning ratio is.???
The reversed Corvair box is 20:1 .
Also the pitman arm is 2" shorter.
Id hate to make the steering harder than it already is.
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I mounted my H/V saw on a frame as I only use it as a band saw. I made a larger table for it and it works great.
Here is a conversion I did:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q1wLX_l_OdQ
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I mounted my H/V saw on a frame as I only use it as a band saw. I made a larger table for it and it works great.
That's pretty good ED. I especially like how you're able to control the speed. I have a small drill press that the motor burned out on and I replaced it with a motor off of a tread mill. Has far more torque that the old motor.
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Cool conversion.
I got the new blade on mine. Seems to work good.
Can't wait to start cutting steel.
Back to the steering box.
I found out the original box is a 12:1 ratio.
So the new box should work out great.
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Some progress on the saw. Just gotta attach the hinges.
Made a plan on the steering box.
Need some 5" channel to make a mount.
Guess I'll get looking at some U-joints and shafts.
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Tried to get the column loose. Those darn original sloted screws. They will be getting drilled out but first im gonna wire up all my lights on the Jeep. It's funner to work on at the moment. Plus they were sitting on the shelf for a long while..
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Oh no. Look at what I did. ;D
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Today I picked up my bushings from the machinist. We ended up using delrin for the column and he made me a steel collar for the shaft itself, to up its size from 7/8" to 1". So a 1" u-joint will fit.
The column bushing is 7/8" ID and 1-3/8"OD.
Also made a template to make a steering box mount.
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Well . Today I ran into a issue . When mocking up the steering box to the original hole in the frame .
Id have to notch out the top of the frame to make it work. Dont want to do that. :o
If I lower the box down near the bottom of the frame it seems to tuck in better to get the shaft out the frame. This requires me to weld up the original hole and drill a new hole down lower. The bottom of the frame should be reinforced with the mounting plate I'll be welding in.
Give me your thoughts on this.
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It sounds like lowering the box is the way to go, my only concern then would be the scrub line.
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I think im good there. The original pitman are is 7-1/2" and the new arm is 5.5". Lowering the box will give me back an inch. So it will be like I have a 6.5" arm.
Also figured Out how Im gonna modify the ride control rod. I'll cut it and reweld it to the other side, then make the rod longer.
Tonight I'll drill the hole in the frame and cringe while doing it.
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You are getting after it. looks good
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Tonight I'll drill the hole in the frame and cringe while doing it.
Nah!! It's just a hole ::)
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As I've been tol it's just metal, it can be fixed
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Well. The reversed corvair box didn't work out and was sent back to get a Vega cross steer box.
Kinda bummed me out and haven't touched the car in months. Parts are sitting there waiting to be installed.
On another note :::
Im going to start switching all my pics to attachments since my photo hosting site is giving me fits.
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Have you tried: http://s15.photobucket.com/
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Yeah. That's what I use. Terrible, page freezes up and takes forever to load pics.
Just trying to simplify things.
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Rattiac:::What i did was put the word out that i was looking for an external hard drive someone found one for me 1000 gigabytes for 20 bucks sure its and IDE drive but who cares.I just plug it in to a USB port and power and BINGO my computer recognized it,so i put everything over on the external hard drive it will probably hold a million pictures and no one uses these any more no one except me vette59jdwl ps save everything to my documents and then send to external drive when you do not want the external drive running just unplug it simple ah
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Well here we all are at the same point. ::) While I type this I am deleting my entire iPhoto library. It became so large that it crashes iPhoto when I open it. I got some trail cameras to help keep track of trespassers. They have motion sensors and take great pictures of weeds when the wind blows. 8 pictures every 5 seconds in a storm. Each camera has a 3.5 gb card. In one download session I filled my remaining hard drive space. First I pulled weeds. ;D Then I got an app called iPhoto Library Manager. With it I can set up several photo libraries. One will be for the trail cams. It can be dealt with separately so this won't happen again at this level. With the trail cams very few of the photos are keepers but I need to load them so I can sort them. I can reload my iPhoto library from my backup drive and will only loose a few pictures. Must of the good stuff is hosted on Picasa any way. I needed to clean up my photos anyway just not today. It'll probably take a couple of days or nights. The trash is still working on over 120,000 items. :(
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Beats a Brownie or Instamatic ;D
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That was my first camera. 8) Well my plan didn't work and I lost the whole iPhoto library. At least the hosted pictures are still on Picasa and I have several discs from when I upgraded the OS. The backup using Time Machine needs the old files to rebuild not just replace. Maybe with what I have I can get it to work. I like working on cars better. You can usually see what's wrong. ;D
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I bought one of these off eBay:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/SATA-PATA-IDE-to-USB-2-0-Adapter-Converter-Cable-for-2-5-3-5-Inch-Hard-Drive-B-/271988677499?hash=item3f53c9db7b:g:UYQAAOSwhcJWPGAs
I can take a crashed computer, remove the hard drive whether it's IDE or SATA and connect it to another PC externally to read and copy pictures etc just like a thumb drive.
Can also use any hard drive for storage just like a thumb drive. Bought plastic hard drive storage cases for the hard drives out of my old PC's and have pictures stored on them.
If your PC crashes....pull the hard drive before tossing it - data and pictures may be easily recoverable. Works with both desktop and laptop computer hard drives.
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Sixball I had a very similar problem to many dang pictures of nothing so what i did was to get me one of those motion sensors with the light in them only i took the light out and used a screw in piece that goes from light bulb end to plug in 110 then i plugged that into the camera.what you do first is to set the whole thing up and a good time to do that would be on a windy day set the sensitivity so it is just beyond coming on then get the wife to walk across the path and see if it comes on if it does not then set it back a tad.I have mine set for people racoons and deer. vette59jdwl
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Two cameras are 1/4 mile from power and two are 1/2 mile. I think I've got it under control now. I got all my pictures back up to mid March and most of the rest are on cameras, sim cards, and my phone. The cool thing about being old is that I've already forgotten the ones that are missing. ::)
About this Pontiac: Don't get discouraged. It's too cool of a car to give up on. Nothing else will get you to those great photo spots with as much class. It's builds like yours that keep my roadster dream alive. I need the incentive. 8)
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I'll keep my P.B. but just gonna reduce some pics. I have alot of my trip reports from my off-road stuff which I delete after a few months.
Hoping I can get some time to get this steering box swapped out soon and maybe hit the Pontiac show.
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Rattiac I am actually think of electronic steering for the 32 but have not delved into the works of it enough to make a positive dicision. vette59jdwl
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New shiny parts. :o
;D
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Now, let's get them on!!! :)
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Go man go! Get her done so you can get some traveling yet this summer. ;D
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Yeah let us know how everything fits up.
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The fender is off. I did some official "mocking up" .
Had to remove the fuel pump but I think that will work going back on.
I may have to relocate this fender mount tab to bring the box back an inch or so.
Pics.
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Started making a mount. Using the bracket that came with plus using 1/4"plate to box the frame.
The bottom of the frame is a bit wider than the top.
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Looks good and strong.
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Got the mount welded up and ready for the steering box.
Burned it onto the car tonight.
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Getting closer. :)
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After a little bit more welding. The box is in. ;D
Cutting the column tomorrow.
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Well, darn. I was hoping to get the steering shaft done tonight but.......... Turns out the sleeve I had machined is a bit too big . So back to the machinist.
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A minor set back. The project is looking good.
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Yes, Rattiac, we've all had minor setbacks. I had my front and rear ends in and out several times "cutting and fitting" to get it just right. It's kind of.....fun ::)
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I was able to use a piece of electrical conduit for that sleeve. Worked perfectly.
Made a tiny hole for a set screw to hold the bushing in place.
Also got my fender back from the metalshaper. It cost me a few hundred bucks but it was worth it. The whole fender got straightened and fixed where it was cracked and creased. Along with the 3" that rusted out near the running board mount.
Super happy with it.
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More fender pics.
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Now I gotta order new steering arms , a drag link and make a lower steering column mount. Cant find anything for a 1-1/2" column.
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Lookin good, definatley progress ;D
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Drag link, steering arms, spacers and tierod bolt kit.
New parts going on right now.
;D
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I put the drag link on and decided it needed a bend.
It has one sideways bend in it but needs another up down bend to clear the leafs turning left.
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The two bends I put in today worked out perfectly.
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Looks good nice work,
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Made the bracket for the column mount. I finally got to use my bandsaw. 8)
Welded some tabs on it so I can use a hose clamp to clamp it together tightly.
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Nice work, Rattiac! How did you bend the drag link?
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Don't you just love fabricating stuff? Nice.
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We have a bender at work.
Fabbin is fun. Especially when it's free. ;D
Today the fuel pump went back on and the column mount is done.
I gotta bend the fuel line and maybe a test drive tomorrow.
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Hell yeah !
Test drive did great. Only around the neighborhood though.
Im amazed at how easy the steering is. Almost too easy. All that's left is I need to adjust the toe. Im toed out right now .
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Nice work Rattiac! You'll be cruising around real soon!
Tom
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Thanks.
Today me and a neighbor did an alignment.
I set it at 1/8" toe in and centered the steering wheel.
Did another test drive. Drove even better.
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I'm impressed brother. Nice detailed work.
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I had a guy cut me out some circles 1/4" thick so I can fill the holes in the frame.
Got those burned in tonight. One step closer to putting the fender back on.
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Yesterday I got the frame holes all smoothed out and got the fender, marker light ,and headlight back on.
Today I drove it to the alignment shop (kind of scary).
It was just a tiny bit off , plus we adjusted the steering box . Drove alot better but.... These bias plys has got to go. Im sure radials will make a huge difference.
Also washed out the engine bay. 8)
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Haven't done much the last few weeks. Just been getting used to the new steering box. Went to a carshow or two.
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How are you liking that new steering box? Does she track nice and straight?
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So far I like it. Alot easier to steer, especially when low speed entering parking spots, ect. No more tired arms ;D . Almost like power steering.
The tires still grab lines in the road . I need to do some burnouts , so I can switch to a set of radials I have sitting here in the shop.
Once my fuel issue is taken care of, I'll start getting the receiver done to pull the teardrop. Hopefully by Labor Day.
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Rattiac i'm glad all that worked out well for you! I believe as much money they get out of those bias plys, i'd sell them. Keep at it man, before long it will be a pleasure to drive. ;)
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Thanks.
Im not sure if those would sell here. They were bought new in the early 90's from Sears for a 46 Chevy that spent more time sitting than anything. I bought em for $80 and they are showing some slight cracking even though the treads are barely worn . He put just over 2,000 miles on them and I have hit 1,400 miles recently. So I think it would be best to send them to tire heaven in a cloud of smoke. 8)
Plus I like pissing off my one "rental" neighbor. ;D
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Haha, smoke away. I hope they squeal to! I've been on the same property since '82, there was a rental property across the street. I put up with different come and go renters, always complaining about every little thing for 4yrs. If I seen them showing the place, I would crank the stereo all the way and jump in the car and leave rubber. Some just left. The ones that stayed with all that right up front were real good! ;D
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Started building the trailer hitch today.
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Trailer hitch done.
This seemed the best way to keep it from twisting and help reinforce the mounting was to tie it in to the spare tire bracket. From what I remember that had a strong mount.
Spare tire is moved up 2" .
Now I just have to wire up a trailer harness and flip the ball.
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The hitch looks good, and period correct. I put one on the roadster that is hidden behind the plate. You never know when you might want to haul a small trailor or even one of those slide in carriers. Good job
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Thanks. Maybe tomorrow I can test tow my teardrop.
I also put the right stage8 locking header bolts on and I put on a new shifter knob on.
50 rodders points go to whoever guesses where the knob comes from. ;D
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Test drive with the trailer complete. ;D
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Always liked those trailers....
How'd the test drive go? Does the steering feel tight with the front end lacking some weight? Could you get some adjustable air shocks out back?
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Test drive did well. The rear only lowered about an inch. Steering seems fine, didnt notice much difference. Backing it up took a bit of practice with the 4" mirrors.
I do have some small airbags but....... I am leaning towards air shocks for the ease of installation. I'll have to weld in a crossmember and shock mounts on the axle. I'll do that this winter when I have the floor out to do the steel conversion.
Just wondering about shock lengths and what will work. Maybe something from a camaro.
Still need to wire it up for trailer lights , in the next few days.
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More fun! Now you don't have to go home at night. :o
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Got the trailer harness hooked up on the car end. Lights all worked great and even towed it to a carshow. I thought I would feel the rear suspension bottom out on a few big bumps but..... To my surprise it soaked em up no problem.
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So. Im planning my project for the winter.
I think it's about time I take on this rotten wood and convert it to steel.
In the last few weeks I've been cleaning up shop, selling what I can and giving away the rest. Also some runs to the dump.
I'll be documenting this here once I get to removing wood.
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Just remember, we all have faith in you and were here for moral support also. :)
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It takes a little thought and a lot of patience, I now have mine completed and almost drivable after 3-1/2 years, wish I had time to work on it more. Good luck
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Rattiac, ^^^same as above^^^. And if you get a headache in the "Thinking Chair", give a shout out! ;) Many on here have done that conversion, and I'm guessing many different ways for each individual car. Good luck, be safe and have fun. :)
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Looking forward to watching the project. I'm sure it'll come out great!
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We'll all be watching closely. Post lots of pictures. And, you know, some of the guys on here are the best at this stuff if you need help. Good luck!!! ;)
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Thanks guys. I'll probably be starting from the rear and working forward on the body frame . The last thing will be the doors (should be more intensive).
I will be looking for your input in certain areas.
Sometimes it helps to get someone else's ideas when you hit a roadblock.
We could also post this in the Tech department to help others.
Right now im making room and cleaned up a bit.
A run to the dump today is on the list.
I collected too much stuff and need to minimalize.
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the wood framing is what makes our 1935 and down gm cars special.
Exactly why are you taking the wood out and replacing it with steel. Your creating a huge job that if not done right can create more problems than you started out with.
A band saw, 3--4" wide sander, assorted wood chisels , jig saw, and lastly a wood plane either power or hand.
remember all steel cars go boing, gm goes thud, nice and solid.
mike lynch
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Cause I want to do it once and be done with it.
Safer also.
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Damn. My brakes are so good, it wont let me do a burnout.
So I just ordered a Summit knob valve thingy to solve that problem. ;D
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Cause I want to do it once and be done with it.
Safer also.
ACTUALLY THAT MISCONCEPTION IS WRONG.......METAL TO METAL IS WEAKER THAN WOOD TOO METAL.
THE WOOD ALLOWS THE METAL TO SPRING BACK AND ACTUALLY OFFERS RESISTANCE TO BENDING AND STAYING BENT.
A TEST ON A 1930 MODEL A FORD WITH 1500 POUNDS WEIGHT ON THE FRONT RIGHT CORNER CAUSED THE WINDSHIELD FRAME TO BEND, THE GLASS BREAK AND THE DOOR POST BEND. NONE OF THE ABOVE HAPPENED TO THE WOOD RE-INFORCED 1930 CHEVROLET.
GOOGLE IT
MIKE 8)
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To each his own. I did it for these reasons (pics) and NHRH dosen't allow harwood roll bars. :D I'm better with steel than wood.
Mikes right on quiet solid sound to door closings and wood does absorb/muffel road noise. Wood structure does do well in loads and twisting returns. But when my butt is strapped in, I want as much steel around me as practical. Both will be done after a hard crash, but I want to have the best chance I can to walk away after. But thats just me. ;)
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Yeah, I would like to take mine to the drags a few times just for fun. Doubt I'd pass tech the way it is. :o
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That was fast!!! Ordered it Wednesday night.
Burnouts soon to come. 8)
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Ahh. I guess I do have an update.
8)
1600 miles. ;D
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So I had a dream the other day. It was a really good dream.
My car was on "fast and loud" . I told them I didn't want the body changed in any other way than the rust fixed and painted (near) original . Not totally original paint but slightly customized.
At the end of the episode where they tell what was done to the car, it had.........
Black fenders with a very slight metal flake and the body was done in a really dark candy blue, black body line/top . Black Cloth convertible for the top with a slider type deal.
Interior done in dark cherry brown leather seats and tan cloth walls, black carpet.
Rolling stock was big radial whitewalls, same wheels in black of course and newly chromed Pontiac hub caps.
Suspension received a nice riding IFS in front and lowered 1.5"
Drivetrain was treated to a roots blower for the GN 3.8 engine and overdrive transmission.
As my car was sitting there rotating T.V. style in all it's beauty and shinyness .....
I woke up !!!!
Man that was a good dream.
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Dreams have a way of coming true.HOPE HOPE HOPE.
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An what would you do with the car you own now? ::)
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Just to help with the wood versus metal framing discussion...just thought I would toss this auction out:
It's for a "wood welder"
http://www.auctionsinternational.com/auction/9875/item/workrite-wood-welder-59835
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I've been seeing some metallic blacks on newer vehicles that look pretty interesting.
The dream was interesting cause I never had a vision on what the car looked like finished.
Now I have a good idea of what I want.
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Just when I thought I had all the oil leaks fixed another poped its ugly head. Looks like it's coming from the oil pressure sending unit again.
I need to find something better to seal the copper elbow going to the sender.
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Mounted the original horn near the factory location .
Ha,ha I got it working. Its sooo LOUD. :o ;D
I probably shouldn't be hitting this with 12volts. I need to figure out how to get it down to 6volts, so it sounds right.
Also getting ready to do a "total timing" on the 231 V6.
Any advice on that ?
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A super-quick ebay search came up with this:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/12V-to-6V-DC-DC-Buck-Converter-Step-Down-Module-Power-Supply-Voltage-Regulato-H1-/282333107446?_trksid=p2385738.m2548.l4275
I'm sure you will find exactly what you need for that horn without a problem.
Total timing... I defer to Moose and maybe one of his "tech tips".
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I did find something small that they use for 6v gauges, I may try one of those.
I've read probably a hundred different threads on "total timing" enough to confuse myself again.
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Jeff...There are all sorts of variables that determine what an engine needs for total timing. Camshaft grind, compression ratio,fuel mixture and delivery system, distributor centrifugal weights and springs and also how the engine will be used as in normal street driving verses racing where for full advance at and above a certain RPM range must be considered. If the engine is stock and you will be using it for all around street style driving I would I would just set the timing as per GM specs. Set the initial timing and the total timing will take care of itself. There is always a lot of discussion about whether you should use ported of manifold vacuum for distributor advance and if you look at my tech post on the subject (Timing and Vacuum Advance 101 (http://rustybowtie.com/index.php?topic=53.0)) you'll probably get some good insight as to why manifold vacuum makes most sense and why and if I remember correctly the stock Pontiac did use manifold vacuum as per their diagram. I would guess that you should have somewhere around 36 to 38 degrees total advance but depending on driveability concerns such as pinging you might have to "Tweak" the timing to suite your needs. I've found that when you using an engine for applications other that how it was designed you have to play around with timing and see what works best for your application. Have fun!!
Moose
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Horns take more juice than gauges. Most horns had a horn relay so all of it didn't have to run through the horn button. . Places like J C Whitney sued to sell ceramic based ones in lots of sizes. I got one for my son's Studebaker to run the heater. I think this would work
http://www.ebay.com/itm/uxcell-DC12V-24V8V-40V-Step-Down-to-DC-6V-20A-120W-Waterproof-Power-Supply/201720448003?_trksid=p2045573.c100506.m3226&_trkparms=aid%3D555014%26algo%3DPL.DEFAULT%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D41376%26meid%3Df967be19c6424912b16bd776be00e854%26pid%3D100506%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D1%26
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So I finally got the car out and took my daily to the body shop. Drove it to work and of course it's susposed to snow tomorrow. :o
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Time for an "Artsy pic". 8)
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Yeah, the "total timing" thing didn't work out. We did everything according to procedure but.......
It fell flat on its face. Put it back to initial timing. :(
Not much done these last few months on the car.
Today it did get an official spare tire mounted to a matching wheel. Just gotta make a bracket to bolt it to. :)
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Keep at it man :) Wish I had room for a spare!
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My spare is a can of fix-a-flat and AAA. ;D
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...and a plug kit. :)
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It's the hot time of the season. Less cars show up at the shows.
I need to measure for a electric pusher fan, good thing I already have the wire routed.
Also need to start modifying a C-clamp to get the door hinges apart.
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How about one of the late 60's inflatable spares that came in the camero firebird, mustang cougar cars.
It also came with a metal air bottle, anybody know if you can refill one of those ?????
mike lynch
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I got great news via text today.
The Pontiac carshow is happening ! 8)
Been waiting for this for awhile, cant wait. ;D
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Be sure to bring your camera, we want pics ;D
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Will do. 8)
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Heres a Pontiac for ya Rattiac ;D I stumbled back across it 2days ago moving my Chevy parts around in the basement. Dad found it in an old silage trash pit back in the early 80s. I had to sand and blast the scum/rust off, it had a dead coon stinking on the seat. About gagged doing it. He straighted and painted up for little sis, she must have peddled a couple hundred miles up and down the sidewalk. I redone it for her in 2004, she brought it over so her kids wouldn't beat it up ;) I put it in my living room :)
1948 Murry Pontiac FireChief
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Very cool. 8)
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I've heard reports of photobucket not allowing 3rd party links anymore.
Mine haven't been affected "yet" but this next week I'll be converting all the pics over to attachments.
I liked the bigger pics to show more of the details people need to help in thier builds.
So you'll have to register/log on this awesome site to see the attachments.
Sorry and thank you for viewing my build over the years.
There's still plenty more to come.
The next phase is just around the corner. 8)
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Rattiac, i'll be following :)
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Me too, thanks for posting :D
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I rolled the top up on the car. First time doing that since I've sewn it up. Maybe a night drive is in order.
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Waiting to be mounted. The darkness is approaching.
:o
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New taillights are in. LEDs are gone.
Our best guess
A diode had failed and resulted in blown turn signal fuses.
I liked having the brightest taillights but I can't have this happen on a long distance trip, easier to replace a bulb.
I think the bulb lights look better in a way.
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Alrighty then !
After new taillights, turn signal switch and HD flasher I think the electrical gremlin has been found.
Boy those taillights look sinister. ;D
Pic;;;; notice the blue wire. :o
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Glad you found your gremlin....
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Glad you got it figured out.
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Saw one of these exhaust caps at a Ag store close by and was tempted to try it out.
Had to flip the cap around and reweld it to get it to work at this angle.
2nd pic is at idle .
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Glad you found the problem!
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Thanks. I went on a test drive . No blown fuses and all lights are working properly.
:)
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Alrighty then !
After new taillights, turn signal switch and HD flasher I think the electrical gremlin has been found.
Boy those taillights look sinister. ;D
Pic;;;; notice the blue wire. :o
Glad you found the problem, the way you were describing it the switch almost had to be the culprit.
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I've just whizzed through the whole thread, don't remember if I ever looked at it before.
A lot of pics are not working at the start, but there's enough at this end.
Very cool Pontiac, I'll keep checking in, cause I know there's a burn out vid coming. ;D
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Looks like I need to fire up the computer and fix those pics.
Thanks for letting me know.
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I have the first 3 pages fixed. 8)
Hopefully tomorrow I can knock the rest out.
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Good job Rattiac, you have to feel like a little weight has been lifted off.
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Oh yeah. I feel much better. Now I can move onto other projects.
At a carshow yesterday there was this 1930 Oakland with modern shocks set up on a 55 truck axle.
Now I have a better idea of what I need to do.
I'll leave these pics for future reference.
Notice how many leafs up front.
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Cool, I'll go check em out after I'm done at the studio today.
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Another local 32 for reference pics.
55 chev truck axle and steering arms for upper shock mounts.
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Alright guy's, I need some help here. Starting to measure for front shocks. How do I go about this properly ?
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Do these help?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SPbiQOMOesI
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l8rD3Of0ZR4
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The 1st vid explained it in simple terms that I like.
Thanks. 8)
Amazing how so many others can make it soooo confusing. ::)
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New shocks and towers are on order.
I'll be tearing the original front "ride control" shocks off hopefully this weekend.
I can keep the rears cause they actually work and it's getting a set of skyjackers to help level things when towing.
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It's official. It's going modern.
New parts are in with a quick hand mockup.
I'll flip the shock over to get a better idea on travel.
Im thinking hide the tower behind the shock cause it looks better and get a wider part of the frame to weld to.
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Unbolted the original shocks from the axle and found there is no resistance at all, up or down. :o
Also the fluid is gone.
Well, they worked for alitte while.
Now I dont feel so bad.
Im on my way to get some lower mounts. Be back soon.
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New shocks should improve your ride ;)
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So this is really STUPID.
When I put the new steering box in, I blocked one of the bolts to remove the original "ride control" shocks. :o
Now I have to figure a way to get a modified wrench on it and turn it a 1/2" at a time.
>:( >:( >:( >:( >:(
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I hate when that happens. What are you gonna do to modify the wrench?
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Rattiac don't feel alone, even some factory built cars have been assembled that way. I have many modified tools that dad and I have made thru the years for such problems. ;) Dad was a master at making goofy looking tools, I still run across one every now and then that I have no clue what he built them for.
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My mom had a '60 Ford convertible that I never figured out how to remove the left rear spark plug.
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I went to harbor freight and picked up a set of offset box end wrenches. Had to cut 6" off the 19mm for it to fit in the frame.
Couldn't budge the bolt with the wrench so I took a hammer to the shock itself to break it loose.
Made alot of progress.
Sure wish I could post pics. :-\
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back plug , get to it. I had a 67 cougar 390 that the back plug was nuts to get too.
Either use a few universal wiggly joints , tried that, or as we ended up doing , using a hole saw to get a socket thru the fender well and onto the offending plug.
Absolutely everything on that car was tough to get to.
mike 8)
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Try working on a Bobcat. The only thing accessible is the fuel filler cap. I'm selling mine to keep me from torching it.
Rat at least you didn't have to ruin and real tools.
Mike, my mom sold the '60 Sunliner and bought a Cougar. I quit doing her tuneups.
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the 289 was easy to do, the 390--427--428 big block was as tight as hell.
Wonder what the guys who were racing these cougar / mustangs did at the track. ???? a 7 plug change.
mike
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Hmmm.
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Long story short but removed the ride control and now have modern shocks.
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Looks great! Well worth the 'cyphering.
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Nice work!
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How does it ride. Were the old units single action, only dampen in one direction?
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Rides much better. Not getting the bouncyness like before. I think the old units were single action, would only work on rebounds not compression.
I may pull one more leaf from the pack but I want to see what improvements radials do.
That's the next mod.
Bye, bye whitewalls.
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I have another broken spring on my '53 pickup. I have broken several of my "slimmer" sets, but it is a pickup and so used and it travels a rough road.
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Maybe try lowering the psi in your tires to help take the shock out of the bumps. If your running 35, go to 30. It helps on the gravel roads.
Just to give you an idea;;;; off-road I run down to 18 , maybe more depending on how hardcore the trail or length.
But im sure you truck bed is full of gear so airing down may not be an option.
My neighbor works for AAA spring if ya need any spring work done LMK .
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So, this happened.
Year I was born and just the other day.
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Very cool 8) Glad to see you're racking up some miles!
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Mile Stones...as apposed to Miles Stoned :o
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Only took me a few years. ;D
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Went for a drive today to flush some new gas through the system.
Saw this "old west town" and decided to rob the bank. ;)
Probably last pic with the whitewalls .
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Gotta be careful robbing banks, could end up with some bullet holes in that Pontiac ;D
Cool pics!
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Well you can't rob gas stations anymore unless you paint a pistol on you credit card. ::)
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Had a scary incident on the way home from there.
I drove on one of our newer highways since it was smoother. Going over a bridge there was a bump and the car just went left :o . Thankfully nobody was next to me.
I think I'll be putting the stabilizer shock back on and the tires will be gone next week.
I can't take it anymore. They look cool but handing sucks.
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I think I'll start trying to find me a overdrive transmission this summer. Going with the th2004r. Looking online monster transmissions had a built unit for $900 ish. Seems like a decent deal.
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Welcome to the dark side !!!
Phase 2 (improving driveability) is finally done.
Whitewalls are officially gone. Putting radials on helped a lot. No more avoiding lines/seams in the road. This is huge. 8)
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why do you think the Pontiac went hard to one side when you hit a bump ?
Aren't the whitewalls radials ?
Note.........if your going 700-R4 or 200-R4, if your going to be running a holley carb, you need a special bracket $40 ??? that attaches to the carb that changes the PULL ANGLE on the TV cable into the trans.
The cable has to be adjusted perfectly as per instructions so the trans does burn out. I am pretty sure ATI trans makes makes the bracket. Also Holley also now offers it too. For the 700-R4 they ATI also make a special, plug 4 gang , that goes into the electrical connection and also a special plug into a pass side port on the side of the trans that makes the 88--91 700-R4 shift into overdrive.
Have one of these on my 35 coupe with 700-R4 for years , late 90's . I bought all the stuff for a 700_R4 but decided will go to a tremec 6 speed stick, unless I decide to not do the tremec
mike
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Nope, bias plys. I think it was the angle the bridge I crossed was at. In construction zones where asphalt and concrete are seamed together the car would do a pretty good wiggle that scares the crap out of ya. :o :(
Drives so much better now. ;D
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Saw this on Facebook and will be joining the Lincoln highway tour.
I have almost a year to get the wood out and converted to steel. 8)
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While the weather was good yesterday. Had a flat tire fixed as well as the spare was leaking. Also had them balanced but it started snowing on my way home so I couldn't tell if there was any difference.
Got tired of pumping up that tire every day.
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Operation ; Cooler cruising has begun. 8)
Went to a radiator shop near me to see what they recommend. Nitrile camper tape they said seems to hold up the best.
1.) Camper tape 1.25"
2.) 11" fan
3.) Thermastatic fan control.
4.) 1.25" aluminum angle.
5.) EBay rubber bumper (3)
6.) Square mud flap pieces.
7.) 1/4" bolts/nuts, lock washers.
Im starting to use this hoist a lot lately. 3rd hand.
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Radiator re-mounting and electric fan install is done.
1st pic. ) EBay rubber bumpers
2.) Stud facing down with red loctight.
3.) Side cradles with camper tape.
4.) Top mounts. Used a piece of mud flap between existing bolt holes.
5.) Can barely see the electric pusher fan behind the grill.
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RATTIC , take that stupid non functioning aluminum fan and deposit it in nearest scrap pile. SERIOUSLY those things are useless....ya ya I can see bigger pitch and all that.........its scrap.
Get yourself a DERALE 6 blade all steel or main part steel, blades aluminum. Come in various lengths, make sure short enough to clear lower inlet hose.
IF IT DOESN'T WORK I WILL SEND YOU THE $40 COST !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
TEST....start engine and run at 650--700 rpm idle. Place cloth t shirt or cloth diaper foot away from grill mesh, then start moving it toward the mesh, when air grabs it and pulls t shirt/diaper to the mesh and holds it there, that's what you want. Test first with alum flex you have on there and then do DERALE fan and test.
If I am wrong you get $40 USA money !!
post the results
MIKE LYNCH
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You do know this is the derale heavy duty fan, right ? ;)
Though I will take you up on your challenge. I need the 15" unit. Not sure if the 17" will work on the drivers side.
Provide a link through jegs, summit or other and I'll order it today. ;D
So, the project for today is new trans cooler lines.
I may have to shorten them up a bit. A small splice with rubber hose will do, in the event I add an aux cooler down the road.
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the one that was pictured by ***you*** earlier was the flexbile race fan, off to the scrap pile.
You need to measure from water pump snout to water outlet lower or trans cooler lines for length. They come in 13--15--17--18".
Tried earlier to cut and paste link to the derale site and could not get it done. Jegs and summit both sell it.
mike lynch
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Took a screenshot of this.
Is this what your talking about ?
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yes, that's one of your choices, the other is the steel center with aluminum blades. Same fan just diff blades. The weight is a lot less with the aluminum blades. Make sure you use red Loctite to make sure the bolts stay in. Mine are safety wired also.
Note in description the blades are 28 degrees pitch to them, theres your air draw.
That price is seriously less than what I have seen them normally advertised for.
mike lynchsize]
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I ordered the aluminum blades version.
Kept with the 15" in case I needed to build a shroud but the blades will be closer to the radiator. I may have to go back to the 1" spacer.
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RATTIC..........on the absolute hottest day we have had this year, I decided in a HEAT WAVE, to test the same fan as you have already. The SBC 305 in my phaeton, which I did not build the car, I DID THE TEST. Been wanting to change the fan and today was the day.
A used rod run t shirt was placed in front of the radiator , a WALKER 2" thick , car started and idled too 650 held maybe half a second then slinked down to the fenders. This was done 4 times in a row..
I get the new DERALE 15" steel center with aluminum blades fan , gently file the pump snout hole of powder coat until it slips on.......its a 5/8" hole regular aluminum WP . The big bearing corvette hi-po unit is 3/4".
OH OH , SHAZZBOTT, Martha we got a problem. The forward pitch of the derale fan hits the rad core down low as I turn it by hand. The fan I am removing has no forward all rearward pitch. There is no way to move the motor backwards to within a 1/2"--3/4" like the coupe , of the firewall.
To move the motor rearward with new side motor mounts attached to the block mount bosses as planned , will have to wait. Means trans also moves rearward and might require driveshaft shortening.
Anyway RATTIC , make sure you have adequate fan snout to radiator clearance.
I measured the Derale fan as having a forward pitch of 1 1/4", measured from the bottom of the steel center and eyeballing it. You need to take info posted here into consideration. Hope it works for you , as I will have to mail you $$$$$$$$$$$.
I will use either the steel or steel and aluminum fan on my 35 roadster build.......................shazzbott
mike lynch
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It'll hold a sheet to it but not like when the electric fan comes on. :-\
Now I just need to find that shorter spacer , wherever I put it. :o
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I guess the derale fan that's on right now is meant for close tolerance situations.
New trans lines on and had a good test drive.
I love hearing the tires bark going into second gear. 😁
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was looking back in prior posts of this thread, damn, you got a lot of room in that engine compartment with the 32 Pontiac. In a chevy its packed in there with barely enough room front to back to fit.
What is the motor in your Pontiac , a Pontiac ?????
A chevy has 107" wheelbase your Pontiac has a lot more like an Oldsmobile. These Pontiacs we do not see enough of to know the engine bay is that long. I do know they came with a inline six and also a V8 that was an Oakland engine.
How is your rear vision out the rear window ?
mike
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Mike , thanks for the mention of the Oakland V8 use in Pontiacs. I ran across an old Oakland at a ranch when in high school. I was not curious enough at the time. Very interesting engine with vintage race potential. Here is a ink to a good article.
https://www.pontiacoaklandmuseum.org/sites/default/files/storypdf/The-Oakland-V-Eight.pdf (https://www.pontiacoaklandmuseum.org/sites/default/files/storypdf/The-Oakland-V-Eight.pdf)
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The original 6 was 60hp and the Oakland 8 was only 20 more at the time.
Im running the 231 V6 (3.8ltr) from a Pontiac phoenix. Think Buick grand national without the turbo.
After all the metal/body work is done one day, I wouldn't mind throwing a turbo OR supercharger on it.
So far im enjoying this V6. My engine guy is rating it at around 250hp with the carb on it now.
My buddy rebuilt the trans and it shifts firm.
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In a former self I was " The Gasket King ", from 1976 to 1991. I specialized in 1909 to 1948 cylinder head gaskets, had 30,000 of them NOS.
I owned the company samples of every cylinder gasket that Fitzgerald gasket company Torrington CONN. produced.
The original Oakland six inline had 3 cylinder heads cast in pairs . Oakland street rods are few and far between rarely seen even at the NSRA nats I attended for many years. Funny thing is there is one sitting outside a club about a mile from me. Its a 4 door sedan with ?? motor trans.
The Oakland V8 I believe was made 1930--31 then car line was discontinued and driveline used in the 32 Pontiac.
When I sold the gasket King business I think I had about 25 head gaskets left to sell. It was very distinctive as it was bent in half right down the middle end to end.
mike lynch
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I wonder if this fan will help you with your clearance situation. ;)
Sorry pic is sideways.
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Rattic, that's what's on my phaeton and does not pull to my satisfaction, like either the steel center with aluminum blades, or the all steel version. Its the hooked end on the end of the blades that's causing the fan to hit the radiator core.
Going to go visit my coupe that's in storage unit , with the Chrysler 6 blade and have a look at it. Same idea lots of pitch without the hook I believe. Motor in coupe sits 1" farther back. Also going to look into making aluminum spacer to raise rear of tailshaft up 1/2--3/4", which will change angle of motor in the car and fan away from bottom of radiator.
Was going thru ebay last nite looking for one below 17".
mike lynch
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The fan thing is driving me nuts.
Dug out my 2 all steel 15 & 16" fans. After a lot of measuring, turns out the steel ones have less size to the blades....aluminum 4" and steel 3 1/4".
Comparing the forward pitch on the aluminum and the steel, the all steel has seriously less forward pitch and I believe this should now clear the radiator at the bottom. Because the fan is opened up at the snout from 5/8", too the larger corvette pump snout of 3/4" , I needed to make a sleeve out of a bearing as it centers the fan.
Tomorrow morning will find out the truth about whether we have clearance or not..........news at 11 as they say.
mike lynch
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Drove it to work today. Temps 102°.
I had the electric come on at 190°, it never went over that. I didn't even need to change spacers after measurements the 2". The new fan is 3/4" from the radiator.
So far im pleased. 😁
Me on the other hand------ was melting 😱
I may start looking converting the back window to roll up and down. I know some of you use Saturn rear window cranks OR other 4 door cars. Can I do something like that ???
I may need some pics for reference. ;)
Since my steel conversion is almost on the way, I might as well modify the back window.
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alright.............cooling system should be operating smoooooothly.
One of the problem we non ford guys have is the windshield doesn't roll out. They go up 2" ???? into the upper header opening the bottom to air flow, for the 32 and down GM. When its 102 degrees outside, damn that's hot, and not a lot you can do about it.
Every once in a while I see a pair of ACCESSORY VENT WINDOWS, that attach to the doors. Think I saw a pair listed on ebay last week at a hefty price. The addition of those greatly will increase airflow inside car, but all that air directed into it, makes for a mini hurricane if opened all the way. This is where that roll down rear window comes into play.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1931-1932-Chevrolet-Coupe-Sedan-Draft-Deflectors-Wind-Wings-Original-GM-Box/153075762670?hash=item23a406c5ee:g:eF4AAOSwEy1ayVed
found the listing...........a whole lot of crazy on price but you can see what they look like. Maybe ford had something the same ???
Model A ford coupes and 32's had roll down when car came equipted with rumble seat, gm did too.. For best price I would look at model A ford suppliers. Preferably you want the mechanism handle right in the middle for easy access.
You will need the door stuff channel for the rear for glass to slide up and down in.
Lastly you will need to fabricate a water catch tray out of sheet metal and attach it too the body so when water hits glass and runs down your not soaking inside of the car. You will need to fab a drain one end, out of 3/8" brake line. There is a slight angle to the tray so water runs too it. Run the drain hose thru the floor .
I found it easier to adapt a mechanical chevy roll down 33--35 than make an electric one. Which would be nice .
The bottom metal around the rear window will have to be modified.
One supposedly simple job always makes 2-3 others.
mike lynch
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The fan thing is driving me nuts.
Dug out my 2 all steel 15 & 16" fans. After a lot of measuring, turns out the steel ones have less size to the blades....aluminum 4" and steel 3 1/4".
Comparing the forward pitch on the aluminum and the steel, the all steel has seriously less forward pitch and I believe this should now clear the radiator at the bottom. Because the fan is opened up at the snout from 5/8", too the larger corvette pump snout of 3/4" , I needed to make a sleeve out of a bearing as it centers the fan.
Tomorrow morning will find out the truth about whether we have clearance or not..........news at 11 as they say.
mike lynch
After fighting with the fan, pulley and radiator and doing some bloody damage to my right hand knuckles over a 2 hour period, I am happy to make my final report on mechanical fans with serious pitch vs aluminum flex fans.
Firing the engine and running it, I could not really feel an air draw on the grill mesh with either type. But using a 12" micro-cloth 1/2 way up it stayed in place, then I substituted a 20" square towel that was heavier and you could now see the towel being pulled towards the grill. I let it be pulled to the grill and it stayed there solidly drawn.
Conclusion, the 6 blade Derale 17" steel fan with 3" wide blades and 28 degrees pitch definitely outperforms the aluminum flexifan. I could not test the aluminum 17" because of the forward pitch of the blades hitting the radiator at the bottom. Those blades are 4" wide with a 33 degree pitch. That same fan RATTIC has on his Pontiac should easily hold a t shirt to the grill of his Pontiac ?
The 34-35 standard series Chevrolet has factory stock *side air blockers* that fit onto the sides of the radiator and stop airflow from going around the radiator. I have 2 pair or these and need to refinish a pair to complete the job.
mike lynch..........the mad fan tester
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My fan testing :::::::
Flex fan ------ it would suck the sheet to the grill but had to get really close and not hold long.
New scoop fan (pic #1) ----- sucks it to grill from 5" away and holds there for awhile.
Scoop fan with electric pusher fan (pic 2) ------- sucks from 6" and holds well.
Now my problem is with the adjustable thermostat. Vibrations make the knob to go out of adjustment. So I'll play around with that and maybe convert to an engine sensor.
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Anybody have a pic of the roll down back window ?
If I see it, I can build it. 8)
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https://www.macsautoparts.com/ford_model_a/model-a-ford-rear-window-kit-roll-down-type-coupe-24-pieces.html
https://www.google.com/search?q=1932+ford+roll+down+rear+window&tbm=isch&tbs=rimg:CRJEQKc9XWbPIjgkF62BeG0QItXXGvcTwyMNvbdHH_1RhVZ7DSogLUSrhe_1iHMBY3yKW3QkqvKYEyjiEQ8ViPCg0oGioSCSQXrYF4bRAiERrMgg-uOxYxKhIJ1dca9xPDIw0RGsyCD647FjEqEgm9t0cf9GFVnhHOlQY_1NsK_1-CoSCcNKiAtRKuF7EYXIHu8oNKIgKhIJ-IcwFjfIpbcRGsyCD647FjEqEglCSq8pgTKOIRE9AReVUDQ1YSoSCRDxWI8KDSgaES8kD5lmoH-n&tbo=u&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwjpvvftqY7cAhVk5IMKHbznAFUQ9C96BAgBEBg&biw=1360&bih=566&dpr=1#imgrc=8x13GKr7p72IQM:&spf=1531012495946
https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/roll-down-rear-window-in-a-model-a-or-32-36-ford-questions-pics.76490/
mike lynch
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Drove it to work for a few HOT days and when I got home, went to close the door and the whole wood piece came off in my hand.
Well , you know what that means. The wood is demanding attention. I have most of this planned out except for who can make me this piece for the tops of the doors.
My metal guy couldn't. :-\
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My other metal guy dosent answer the phone. So I called someone else who deals with race cars.
Got quoted $600 for each piece . Holy s#%t !!!
Said they'd have to make a die and recommended another shop.
Wouldn't you need to roll the ditch and bend the other sides ???
Utah sucks.
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Dang thats a bit pricey :o Be much cheaper to buy yourself a bead roller, metal break and do it yourself.(or borrow someones) That piece dosen't look hard to make, pretty straight forward. Yep, roll the ditch first then do the break. My metal break only does up to 38" long and don't like more than 20-22 ga using a piece that long. (Its old and leaves the middle not as sharp as the ends).
Here is all you need ;)
Add: Just grabbed a piece of scrap to make sure I wasn't talking out of my arse ;D It worked, (I was to lazy to hunt up a wrench to tighten up the bead roller to get it crisp) I guess I should have cleaned the surface rust off first so you could see it better, told you I was too lazy tonight :)
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That's awesome Sammons 8). Thank you for doing that.
I was just thinking earlier about asking if you could make these for me but Hell , I may give it a try.
I know the ditch is offset to the left a bit. How close can you get the ditch to the bend ?
Here's a pic. I believe it's 1-5/8" width .
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Rattiac I think you could go as close as 1/4" (from ditch to break on the up side and really close next to the down break. I'll try tomorrow after I leave the shop to make sure.
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Just awesome !!!
Lookin at some new tools .
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You guys rock.
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Rattiac, just made another sample. (Clean one this time) ;D
My bead (ditch) was a bit wobbly, can't find my guide (fence) and hand cranking today not so good.
I was worried about the ditch being down and needing to break up close to it, not a problem. The bottom of the ditch just rested at a tip up angle till bent. So...you can get close, I'm just about 3/16" on this bend. 1-5/8" from inside up lip to inside of down lip.
Tools- i'm real happy with my Eastwood bead roller and it came with 3 sets of bead dies and 3 sets of step dies. The ones that Jegs, Summit and Speedway all look like the same as the Eastwood (different colors and decals) Make sure you purchase a fence (or make one) You can keep a straight bead that way. Helps to have a helper to crank while you guide the metal thru.
Was really happy with my break, but its probably 25+ years old and been rode hard ;) don't remember the manufacturer.
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Nice work Sammons 8)
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A big thumbs up !!! Looks like it should work for Rattiac😉
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This is fun to watch. I'm going to have to make a couple of pieces for my roadster. I'm not a sheet metal guy. Thanks.
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Stinking amazing, Sammons!!!!!
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Thanks guys but there really isn't nothing to that, the tool does the work. Hardest skill is accurate measure and scribe lines, trying to crank bead roller while keeping a straight line :)
Rattiac, Jegs carries the Eastwood bead roller kit and has the best price ($149.99) Eastwood and Northern tool (Klutch) sell it for $159.99. Eastwood carries the fence for $39.99.
Looked at some simple sheet metal breaks, man they get pricey after 30" models. The Northern Tool Klutch brand 30" sells for $89.99. Summit had a cheesey looking 30" for $49 Sale/ $59 reg.
I haven't used either, was just looking around. I suppose it depends on how long your uppers are, I've had to butt weld 2 pieces together after bending to get the length i've needed before.
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Before. I was dreading this project. But now im kinda excited about tackling this. ;D
I was looking at the Eastwood roller. I dont think I'll need a big one, so this 8" should work fine for what I do.
I will go 30" on the brake. I think the longest piece for the front doors is 24". Haven't heard anything bad about the HF breaks yet but summit may have them beat in price.
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Sammons.
Looking at your pic of the sheemetal brake. What kind of brake is that ?
Noticed the 2 handles.
Looking at some of the cheaper ones, im not crazy about having to clamp things down. I may buck up a bit for this.
That northern looks decent but backorders.
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Rattiac I'm sorry but its been too many years ago, I don't recall the brand :( The two handles on the top of mine are the escentric lock downs that hold the metal. The bottom right is the brake handle, you pull up to bend. It really needs another handle on the left for larger bends, at 38" max length its hard to get the left bent. I use big water pump pliers on that end, i've been gonna weld another handle on for 20yrs. Have to do that some day ;) Having to clamp down the metal would be a pain, but probably cheaper to buy.
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No biggie. I may end up getting the 36" HF bender.
I've had this piece hanging around for awhile and decided to cut it down just for a test fit. Not bad.
Time to make a few more bends at work.
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That looks good to me. I saw this on eBay yesterday and thought of you. There may be some info like spring interchange that could help you.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Pontiac-Interchange-Parts-Catalog-1926-1952-OEM-Part-s-Buick-Olds-Chevy-Pontiac/142886718475 (https://www.ebay.com/itm/Pontiac-Interchange-Parts-Catalog-1926-1952-OEM-Part-s-Buick-Olds-Chevy-Pontiac/142886718475)
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Looks good from here :D
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Thanks sixball. I may pick that up.
Hopefully at our local "metal mart" they have
1.5" I.D. square tubing. Starting to make patterns for the top rails. There's a bend at the rear of each door I need to make.
As soon as the snow flies, it's tear down time.
Went for a drive the other day to check out my buddies 67 Caddy limousine. Wants the headliner done. He has a English bulldog also.
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Yay. No more hole in the dashboard.
Big thanks to 62131. 👍
Used some fine steel wool and it polished up great.😎
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That looks awesome :D
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Rattiac I'm glad your happy with it. I welded my ash tray hole closed due to the fact that I made a steel cowl support, then I boxed it in and used it for my defrost duct and then drilled holes on top of my dash panel and covered them with some vent grilles to get my defrost air to the windshield.
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After looking under the dash. It looks like it'll be best if I wait until I pull the dash to hook up the defrost.
Time to change gears for a moment.
It looks like the 32 is suffering from a bad case of
"Gangster lean" :o.
Leans to the left rear. Starting to become very noticeable now.
Time for new rear leafsprings. Since my neighbor works for AAA spring, I have the hookup.
Gonna pull the RR leafspring since it's more arched and have them copy that.
Once the frame is properly level I can start ripping out the wood. 8)
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Swapped out the thermostat. New 180°.
Once it was burped out, the heater is much better.
So far im impressed. 8)
Im pretty sure the old 160° was toast.
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It's been months since the car has been driven.
Took it out to get gas and grab some chocolate shakes. ;D
Tried out the heater but it seems it needs more burping. Got up to about 230° but no signs of boiling. Added more coolant once I popped the rad cap. Hopefully tomorrow I'll get this solved.
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This 180° thermostat is acting weird.
Almost like it still needs burping. :(
I put the 160° back in.
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Is this enough mileage for a shake down run ?. ;D
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I finally finished this video. Enjoy.
https://vimeo.com/357150691
.
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Nice work man, like the what it was to, what it is. Really liked your video too. :)
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Great video production and build documentation!
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Awesome video!
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Thanks. 8)
Glad it's done , been putting it off for 2 years.
Well. It's the end of the season again. So I decided to tear into the car. :o :o
Took the Right rear leafspring out to send over to the neighbor. For new leafspring's to get built.
I was fearing the 80+ years old front bolt was siezed butt......... it came out really easy.
Mind blown. Ka boom.😱😁
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Great video Rattiac!! Great job!!
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Thanks.
I already have some more footage for another. 😁
Just gonna place this rear leafspring info here also , just in case.
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My neighbor really hooked me up. 😁
He said he was gonna put the nice keepers on.
He sure did. 😎
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Very nice, they're not going anywhere.
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Nice stuff!
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Passenger's side is on.
Even found my lost bumpstops , welded a washer onto the bracket and bolted it on. 8)
While in the shop. I added a 3rd brake light to the spare hubcap. A lil 3/4" LED .
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Driver's rear is installed. This was side that needed it.
Maybe test drive this week. 😉
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Test drive complete and very happy with the new rear leafspring's. 😎
Sits up a bit higher in the back now. 👍
The only thing I need now is some modern shocks back there.
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Looks good!
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Im glad it's not sagging on that side anymore.
Seems to handle better and stay straight in the lane.
3rd brake light is wired up and looking great.
I thought about going to a 2" LED but I think this is subtle.
Starting to tear out the rear floor right now.
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Looking good! You're not wasting any time.
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Thanks Chopper.
New parts are in. 8)
Monroe air shocks for a 1980 Chevy Malibu and the parallel air line kit from summit racing
Rear upper shock bar for 35-40 Ford
Lower shock mounts adjustable , both from speedway.
The bar is a 43" width and the frame
is near 40-1/2" wide.
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Looks like it'll do the trick!
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Goodbye old "ride control" system.
These were toast. One side worked only on rebound and the other worked only on compression even with new oil. :o
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Since I have the rear floor out, I think im going to "re-do" the sub-framing while im in there along with more reinforcement to the seat mounts.
Wasn't happy with that. :-[
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Goodbye old "ride control" system.
These were toast. One side worked only on rebound and the other worked only on compression even with new oil. :o
Looks more like "ride out of control"! You are going to love those new shocks!
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Since I have the rear floor out, I think im going to "re-do" the sub-framing while im in there along with more reinforcement to the seat mounts.
Wasn't happy with that. :-[
Just think of the car as a "continuous work in progress", they are never done. Always bugs to peel off, oil to change and the occasional wash and wax , even if just in primer.
mike..................HAIRBALL
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Was able to get the shock bar in easily. The frame gets wider in the rear.
Now the exhaust, brake and gas needs to be moved.
Measurements.
20.5" -- extended
12.75" -- collapsed
7.75" -- travel
Axle has 5.75" uptravel before bumpstops.
The bar is mounted as high as I can get it in the frame.
With the lower mount at it's lowest position I'll have 4" downtravel left on the shock at ride height.
I may have to add a 1" bumpstop.
Also I need to space out the shock on the lower mount.
It's a bit close.
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I accidentally kinked the fuel line trying to get it out of the way and started leaking gas. 😠
So it'll be a week or so before I can do any welding.
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New shock studs are in. These will be perfect.
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It's been a few months. All aired out now.
So after trying different things and measuring over and over.
Today, with 2 fire extinguishers near me, I made some tack welds on the upper shock bar.
Used some 6011 to reduce the sparks. Seems to help.
I need to throw a few practice vertical welds before I burn it in permanently. It's been awhile.
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Just a thought. I mounted my cross member behind the differential so the top of the diff wouldn't hit it depending on suspension travel and for more exhaust clearance.
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I tried setting it there. Not enough room and the shocks would bottom out too soon .
At this position the axle will hit the bumpstops before the diff.
The pic doesn't show that it's just forward of the axle. I only have to move the brake line T an inch.
There's 6 inches of uptravel. 😱
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Sounds good. Stitch it in!
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Looking into something else , I found some shock mounting info. Off-roaders and drag guy's will mount the shocks in front of the axle to prevent the pinion from going up and preventing axle wrap.
That's all I needed. Guess I'll finish welding it in.😊
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Post some pic's of what you are doing, if you can.
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Hopefully tomorrow some pics.
I have the mounts all burned in.
My neck hurts from laying on my back, holding my head up , helmet on and stick welding. 😛
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sounds like you also need a hoist !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
mike
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Yes.
Even a pit would be nice. ;D
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Shocks are done. 😁
I know , it took long enough. 😉
I still need to cut tailpipe to move it more forward to get it away from the shock.
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Looks great Rattiac!
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Looks real good Rattiac…..what's the rush?
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New parts for the 32.
Better deal locally than ordering through summit.😯
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Hopefully tomorrow some pics.
I have the mounts all burned in.
My neck hurts from laying on my back, holding my head up , helmet on and stick welding. 😛
OH YA THATS FUN BIG TIME. Now wheres the phone number for the hoist?? Sooner or later your going to have to bit the bullet and get one. My ceiling at 8 ft is too low for one.
mike
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Mine is also 8ft .
I've seen people put em outside in front of the garage door.
That's all my neighbors need to see my rusty junk in the air. 😱😄😁
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Guess I'm lucky. If the neighbors can see my rusty junk they have been trespassing for a couple of miles. :)
Coming home in the snow sometimes it doesn't feel like luck. ;D
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Hopefully in the next few weeks I'll be getting this car back on the road. It's been sitting since October. 😢
Gonna leave a list here for stuff to check off.
1.) Install new fuel line at carb. (Check)
2.) Remove tailpipe and chop off 3" after muffler. (Check)
3.) Fix leaks near thermostat and trans cooler.
4.) Remove old ride control shock on left rear.(Check)
5.) Go for a drive and do a big long Smokey burnout. 😈
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New fuel line is in. (No leaks)
It started right up. Felt good to hear that engine rumble.😎
Removed the last of the "ride control" shocks.
Also chopped 2.5" of the tailpipe at the forward end to get the pipe away from the shock.
Ordered a new water pump bypass hose. Should be here tomorrow.
The car is finally off the ramps. Hopefully tomorrow a test run with the new rear shocks.
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Nice!!!.................you don't like those "ride control" shocks? ::)
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I can't understand why some manufacturer has not made a shock that works like that. In the street rod world there is a market for such a thing. I know I could use them on the '39.
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Good luck with that test drive :)
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I love the idea of ride control.
Pull a knob inside the cab and change how stiff or soft the ride is. 8)
In the name of safety, I had to go modern.
Putting the new water pump bypass hose on tonight.
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Enjoy your ride...
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Just got back. Wow what an improvement.
Rides nice.
Went to O'Reilly's to grab some coolant and took the highway back. That was way better.
While coming home I pulled into the big-lots and did a big Smokey burnout.
In fact, I did two. Couldn't help myself. 😊
Rear floor is missing. I now smell like burnt rubber.
Decided I better get home before the cops show up.
Hopefully pics soon.
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Glad you improved the ride. More comfortable miles now!
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Gotta love them burnouts :)
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Drove it to work today. 8)
Sits nice and level now.
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I'll bet your coworkers loved it! Hey wait!!…..you're not working from home, are you? ::)
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Sometimes I wish. Luckily we've been open this whole time.
Gave it a wash Saturday.
Even cleaned the engine. 8)
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Good to see it out and about. 8)
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It's good to be driving around in it.
Something I've been wanting to do for a few years, Is getting new rear fenders.
Today I placed an order for rear fenders through Speedway. Took advantage of the free shipping.
🎇💥🎉😎😁
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I guess in the midst of all this madness, I forgot to register the car this year. Plates were almost expired. Good thing my dad said something.
All good now. Was able to call and get a new pin number to do it online. $10, cant beat that.😎
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does the Pontiac use the same rear fenders as a Chevrolet ????????
mike
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Yes. The only difference is the front fenders has a scallop in the front.
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Did the old shocks dampen in both directions? The ones I have from a '49 Chevy pickup only dampen the rebound.
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Yeah, they only dampened on rebound. :o
Mr. Brown showed up with the fenders today. 😁
This had me thinking about the welting. Where Does the welting go ?
I know it goes between the fender/body but does it also go along the running boards and between the fenders/running boards ???
My stuff is all gone, so I have no idea.
Most guys like us to sew up welting for them, they hate the rubber/plastic stuff.
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On my 33 it only went between the fender and the body. None for the running boards.
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Would be neat if they made welting with LED's inside!
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1934 master and 1934-1935 standard used a special BULBUS round hollow welting between the running board and the body. GM called it anti squeak, STEELE rubber reproduces it. On 34-35 its needed to fill a 1/2" gap. This should also apply to 33 master and 33 standard series
mike lynch..............HAIRBALL
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Here's the last look at the old fenders. They were actually for a (im told) 35 Chevy truck and are beat to piss with dents, cracks and ect.
At the time it was all I could find that was affordable. Think I paid $35.
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How is the quality of the Speedway fenders.....you can probably get some money back on those steel fenders if someone is in need of steel fenders and can't find a set...
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They look pretty damn good. A lot better than what I had 8) . Hopefully I'll be installing them this week.
I've been in charge at work the last few days, so by the time I get home im tired of working on cars.
Something I thought I'd never say.
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It will be fun to see how is comes out. It 's crazy how well the pickup fenders fit. The new ones should be easy.
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Boy, I could really slam this thing down to the weeds if I wanted to. :o
Nah, done that been there. 8)
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Started mocking it up to mark the holes.
Seem to be having a issue at the rear of the fender
These bolt holes dont line up with the rear. I dont have any 32 chevs to look at locally to see if these holes are used or not.
Got the running board holes drilled and clamped the rear for now.
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How ever you get it done it's going to be nice and clean up the looks of the whole car.
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I found a pic that shows the rear bolt holes.
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I imagine if the holes don't line up exactly, as long as you get the "look" you want, you could easily drill new holes in the fiberglass and patch the other holes?
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Starting to wonder if the body has sagged and it needs to come up a bit for me to use those holes.
(If they are supposed to be used, IDK)
The fenders came with no holes so im trying to get it a stock as possible and only drill holes once.
I called I&I reproductions and they couldn't tell me and gave me a number to another guy, well he couldn't tell either.
I guess the car sits.
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I used the same fenders on my 32 and I couldn't get them to line up either. I moved my apron up under the body like I thought it should fit. There's really only one way it can bolt up with little adjustment. What I ended up doing was making longer pieces for each end of the apron and moving the bolt holes down. I believe the fenders are not an exact fit. After I did that it looks fine, no one can tell. I'll shoot you pictures if you would like.
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Shouldn't the rear quarter panels have a nutsert type part already installed from the factory for mounting the fenders. These should be 1/4 or 5/16 bolt size. The nutsert or CAGED NUT is mounted on a metal strip with ears on it that fits thru the quarter panel and is folded over., That allows the fenders to be fitted in the exact same position each time.
My 35 chevys have this and a certain size was used from 1929---1935
mike--------------HAIRBALL
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Thanks for that bit of info, I was starting to think I had major body issues. Yes, pics would be great.
I may try to drop the front a bit lower to rotate it some to see if it fits better.
Tomorrow though. Kinda burned out on cars today. I had to work on a German car this afternoon. 😕
Mine does have those cage nuts and I plan to use them. Just the holes on the rear apron aren't lining up. They are at least an inch off.
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If I understand correctly the rear apron holes are above the fenders mounting surface area. If you raise the rear of the body shouldn't that bring them closer together, on my 32 there's a gap between the top of the apron and the bottom of the car body as my apron has holes on the corners as if rubber button should be to eliminate rattles ill post a few pictures tomorrow
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Thanks for that bit of info, I was starting to think I had major body issues. Yes, pics would be great.
I may try to drop the front a bit lower to rotate it some to see if it fits better.
Tomorrow though. Kinda burned out on cars today. I had to work on a German car this afternoon. 😕
Mine does have those cage nuts and I plan to use them. Just the holes on the rear apron aren't lining up. They are at least an inch off.
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I would try putting a couple of bolts with large washers into the quarter panel caged nuts and then rotating the fender forward and paying attention to how the fender lines up at the bottom with the running board. Typically the fender front bottom will sit lower and mount lower against the run board. Clamp it and have a look now at how the rear area lines up with the gas tank rear apron holes you showed in a previous picture.
Because there is no pre drilled holes in the glass fender rear area , where it meets up with gas tank cover , hopefully things will be much closer and pull together.
mike..................HAIRBALL
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Starting in the back, like Mike said, and fitting/rotating to the forward alignment at the running board you may find the glass had a little extra built in for fitment in less than perfectly aligned old cars.
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Here are a couple pictures of my rear apron and fenders mounted don't pay any attention to the dirt on my car needs to be washed. Mike is correct start at the rear of the car and align the apron and roll the fender forward if it hangs below the running board just remove the access after is all bolted in.
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Interesting fit, I am used to everything tight on my 35 chevys no gaps. But it looks right.
Should not be a large hang down of fender at front of fender and running board. Think 3/4--1 inch would be right.
My friend frank has a 1931 olds 5 window coupe and its very much like this. Have to study his car next time he comes over.
Main thing is your making progress and winning !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
mike..........HAIRBALL
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Fenders are on. Went for a drive and snapped this pic for you guy's.
Couldn't believe how much those old fenders rattled.
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Looks good Rattiac!
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That is a happy looking car! Good work.
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They look good on there glad to see you got them to fit
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Glad you got them worked out. It's looking good.
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Thanks guys.
I still need to adjust the passenger side a bit more and spray some flat back on em.
What are you guy's using to undercoat your fenders (particularly fiberglass) ?
I sprayed some black for now.
The car is doing good in this heat though. Been upper 90's here.
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On my fiberglass parts I just used 3m rattle can undercoating, I have found if you spray it threw straw like whats on a WD40 can, spray it in light coats and it will have a nice even texture to it
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I'm with 61231. I just used rattle can undercoating. I do wish I knew about the straw trick, though.
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Just readjusted the passenger fender.
Now it's aligned with the other, looking from the rear, just below the bumper but level.
Im happy with that. 😊
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Cleaned, scuffed up the fenders, cleaned again and sprayed some flat black.
Looks much better.
Wish my tags would show up so I can go for a cruise.😢
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Looks good Rattiac!
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The fenders look great, Speedways fiberglass parts are actually pretty descent better than Superior Glass I have both on my car
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It looks great! It needs to be driven, Will it pull the new trailer?
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Looks good Rattiac, gotta be proud.
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Thanks. Im so glad I finally got em, I almost picked up a shotgun instead but that can wait for a bit.
I think it'll pull the trailer, has the power and 3:73's but not sure the frame will handle it.
Need to weigh the trailer. Good thing my dad is a trucker and has a scale at work.
Maybe one day I'll hook it up just to see what it's like.😶
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I put the old fenders up for sale. Sold in 2 days. :o
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How sweet is that, a return on your investment ;)
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Good job Rattiac.....good deal on selling your fenders.....
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When I tore my coupe apart I sold almost everything that I wasn't going to re-use. Then I took that money and used it to buy what I needed for the build. It moved the project along pretty quick.
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Since I didn't go to speedweek. I decided to throw a tune on the 32. Even busted out the vacuum gauge. Carb is now nicely tuned.
While I was at it I put the steering stabilizer back on. Proceeded to the freeway and cranked it up to 85. Did well.
Took Max out for a quick cruise too. 🐕
It's been awhile for him.
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That's a handsome looking wingman.
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He gets all the chicks. 😊
Unfortunately today he woke up with the side of his face swollen. Took him to the vet and they said he had an abscess on his left side. Tomorrow he goes in to get it removed and get his teeth cleaned , nails trimmed.
My dogs insurance is better than mine. 😄
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Good luck to your buddy.
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Old dogs and children and .....
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I dont believe I would trust him to watch your lunch :)
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He would probably watch it for 2 minutes. 😄
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Max update;;;;; He had 2 small teeth removed that were growing in funky , they left an open wound on his lower left cheek for the abcess to drain, has 2 ear infections and wearing the cone.
I have a special cone that I shortened and sewn binding to the edges . It's more comfortable and easier to get around in.
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How old is your boy Max? I had a Max that I put down about a year ago. Funny, she had an abscess in her cheek/jaw. I cut the cone down, she kept bumping into things and getting hung up. Anyway, the best of luck with your buddy
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He's 10 this year. Thanks for the well wishes.👍
He's doing good. Meds, cleaning and hot packs on his neck a few times a day.
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We lost our old buddy Joe the Tramp a few months back. He was everything a male dog should be. No wheels were left un-pissed on, tools were stolen and partly buried, lunches eaten. Once he even took my wallet and gloves. I think he was headed to the bar. Once on a stool with the gloves he would have been had to pick out from the rest. We got another one for company for our other one that we got for company for Joe when a previous dogs died. There is a pattern here. Life without dogs isn't really life at all.
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My shepherd is about 13, pretty old for a shepherd. His hips are going, it's hard for him to walk and he stumbles now. Six months ago the vet said he wouldn't last a year. Of course, they can never know how long a dog will last, but how do you know when is when?
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I know bulldogs have a high tolerance to pain and I've only heard him "wimper" in pain once or twice but it's a sound that's hard to hear him doing.😢
The other day. We had the movie (Babe) playing and when the sheep died, he started howling.😯
We've never heard him howl before.
Give our best to your German shepherd.
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Thanks Rattiac!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oB1D0txK190
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I don't have dog but my neighbor does, and it thinks Im her master. Every time Im in the garage working or sitting on the back porch and she hears me she comes running. I dob;t if she likes or its the treats I give. :)
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Wow. I swore id never be one of those guys that let's his car sit forever. Last drive in August 😬.
Fuel pump was dumping way too much fuel into the carb, 12psi . Flooding it during startup.
Hearing horror stories about mechanical pumps rotting out and killing engine bearings. Im starting to think maybe an electric pump for a replacement.
If my wiring harness has provisions for that, IDK.
One thing for sure, it's getting a regulator.
Hoping June/July I can tear into it.
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Mechanical pump on my '67 Mustang went last spring, I've been too lazy to replace it, just lazy. :-[
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Let's talk gas caps.
I was talking with someone earlier about why my car isn't running (fuel pump) and he said I should look at my gas cap cause it probably isn't vented.
He couldn't find one for his car (same year) and had to drill a small hole to vent it.
I have noticed when I get a tank of gas and remove the cap I get a quick sucking hiss.
With a full tank it pushed air out when cap removed.
Hmmm something to ponder.
He did try to talk me out of going to electric pump.
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With old cars it's like the crank case breather. They vented out into the world and caused climate change. Now they capture the dangerous emissions from the crankcase and fuel tank and run it back through the engine and the when it comes out the exhaust somehow it is cleaner. Anyway old gas caps were vented so outside air could fill the space created as the fuel is used.
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Over filling your fuel tank will keep it from venting properly
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Yep, non-vented gas cap on oldies is a no-no. Creates a vacuum as the fuel is used that makes it hard for the pump to over come.
My brother helped his buddy move to Calif, he drove his Vette and buddy drove his '53 GMC p.u.. About a 1/4 tank used it would quit running, non vented cap. Brother pulled cap, stuffed a rag in till next town and got a vented cap😁
I can't remember which make, but they went to a non vent cap but ran a breather line (kinda like a return line) up with a breather type cap. Later it ran to the emmision charcole canister and to carb. Think Mopar ran a breather line up in the trunk, it made a loop up high, then back thru floor and into the frame rail to vent.
I've always ran mechanical, but on a few I plumbed in an electric as a back up or to get pressure up after one sat for a long time.
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On my '32 I used a vented tank with a non vented cap, but 100%, you have to vent the tank somehow.
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Well heres my cap. I think its vented.
The package didnt say .
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I blocked the vent on top of my tank because I couldn't route it higher that my filler neck. Then I used a vented cap. It may taste like gas but you should be able to blow into those holes and check to see if it is vented.
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What else would the holes be for?
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I pulled off the cap, cleaned it off and blew into it and nothing :o.
If it is vented I wonder how much psi it takes.
Tried a few times.
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I do believe that is a vented cap. My cap is a solid piece of aluminum, my tank is vented. I ran a piece of rubber hose straight up and put a "L" curve in the line to keep dirt out.
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Tanks must be vented; be careful in selecting your vented cap if it is not correct for you tank neck it can fit to tight and crush the gasket and cut off the air supply
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Just ordered a gas cap from The Filling Station. 8)
Wait..... theres some irony there. 😄
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New cap came. Compared it with the old one. Pretty similar.
Well at least I know the cap is right.
Probably start looking into a fuel pressure regulator soon.
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Kinda forcing myself into this. Went to metal-mart and picked up a stick of 1-1/4" square tubing, had it cut in half. $45 .
Should have enough for the 2 top pieces and a few vertical pieces. Just need to figure out how I'll brace it all and not be in the way when I install the uppers.
Have some 1" square left over for that.
Probably start the car up today and pull it out to prep/clean the work area. Maybe a short drive.
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I think it is going to work out well for you. I had zero experience when I did my car and it worked out great for me.
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I took a pic of the doors fitment on the driver's/passenger sides.
Most of the gaps look even except for the front upper door. Gets tight there.
Of course though when I open the door it hangs down a bit, well im sure all 4 do that.
So let's talk about adjustments.
If I researched it right, all the adjusting is spacers at the floor/pillars???
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It's hard to see it in the picture, the rear door seems to be a little high in the front; you have to remember the fit was not perfect back then as we think it should be compared to the cars today; we always strive for perfection
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FYI...hope it helps
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Oh so you adjust/shim the floor main beams.
Awesome, thank you. 👍
What do these shims look like or how thick are they?
Since on the subject. Do you guys keep the little springs in the front mounts ?
I still have the 2 but was unsure if I should use them since I went to steel beams.
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I used conveyor belting of different thickness...because I had easy access to it
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Not really related, but I quick story: Back in the late 70's- early 80's I worked at a Lincoln/Mercury dealership. One of the ways to adjust the window frame on a Zephyr (Mecruy's Fairmont) was actually to grab the frame and bend it. One customer was watching through the shop window and lost his mind when he saw two of us yanking on his car door and frame ;D
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Whatever works. 8) Probably a college professor who wanted to see you use a multi-thousand dollar clamping tool and gently reshape it with screws & levers. ;D
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I added a pic of the passenger side and the front springs up above. Looks similar to the other side.
The springs were under the frame with a long bolt going through on the front #1 mount.
Chopper:::; I laughed pretty hard when I read that.
We had to do something similar on a customer's car awhile back.
Im glad we dont have a window for them to peak through.
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Those springs remind me of the ones Ford used to mount radiators. I'm sure they take some if the stress off of the wood joints when the car is moving. In truth they may let it move too much and stress the joints. I'm sure frame rigidity is part of it too. I would be interesting to be able to make a video that would show them in action. Do they let the body move both up & down? Would bolt tension limit the movement?
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That's what im thinking. They were designed for a purpose. Maybe to help with adjusting , IDK ?
Since the new beam is steel , making adjustments may be harder. I made rubber body mount pads from mud flaps. Maybe I need something stiffer like conveyer belt to get the adjustments.
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While out Xmas shopping, I stumbled upon this cool sign and just had to have it. 😁
Well the 32 needed a Xmas present too.
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Looks good!
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Nice sign! Pontiac did a lot with one of the most iconic logos. The '40- 50s hood ornaments with the plastic insert were the best.
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Very nice
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Nice little sign you picked up.
Dad and Uncle kept trying to buy the big verticle neon lit Pontiac dealership sign at Greensburg. They wanted a little too much. In the end they got nothing as the '07 tornado got it.
Internet pic of same sign
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That is a sad story! Old neon is one of my favorite things, the best commercial art ever!
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My favorite hood ornaments are those of the 30's Pontiac's with American Indian's especially in full headdress.
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Ok, Why di I remember these things when I can't recall important stuff?
I remember sitting in a grade school history class where we were reading about Ottawa Chief Pontiac trying to capture Fort Detroit. It was in the 1760s so he was fighting the British. In the end he lost and was pushed to Illinois. A phrase from our history said,"The British drove Pontiac out of Michigan......". My friend yelled out, "Well lots of people have have done that!" We all cracked up and lost recess. :D
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Oh that's a good story. I'm sure it was not worth losing recess, at that time, but now it's worth every minute.
We owned a motel in North Wildwood, NJ about 20 years ago. Wildwood is know for it's neon signage and our motel had a real nice one. When we sold the motel it was going to be torn down so we donated the sign to the historical museum. They, in turn, sold it to a restorer, who, in turn sold it to a collector. Believe it or not it is somewhere in Michigan.
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I have 3 old signs that need restoration. One was on my grandparents' fabric store. one is from a YMCA the other just said GAS.
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Sixball that's funny
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Wanted to drive the car to work today but last night I noticed no brake lights. Have turn signals and hazards. All fuses are good.
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Did you try jumping the break light switch?
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Did that last night. I'll be ordering a new switch.
Boy this one didn't last long.
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They are not the quality we learned to expect no matter which box they come out of.
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This time I ordered from Summit instead of speedway. Just gets here so much faster and maybe a more quality part.
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I would almost bet like cam bearings they all come from the same place. At least with cam bearings they are made in Carson City.
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I just ordered this one for myself, mine took too much pressure before the light went on to suit me. https://www.ebay.com/itm/231906160692
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My camaro proportioning valve has a sensor with a wire coming off of it . Is this a brake light switch ?
Might be able to use this as a backup since I have the lever type switch.
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I'm sure that is the "trip switch". If both front and rear brake systems are working properly (hydraulic pressure) the switch remains in a neutral position. If for example one of the brake lines leaked (front or back) the switch would be pushed "out of the neutral position"...and your dash brake light would come on.
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Yes, that is the dash, brake warning light switch.
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Ahh that what it was. Couldn't remember what it was for.
New switch should arrive today. It's a Ron Francis unit.
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Ron Francis, that's what I got for my 32, just have to put it in.
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Well I thought I might be able to re-engineer the bracket but it looks like the only way.
Anyways, brake lights are going again and set the switch so it's not so sensitive as before.
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It's always goo to let the guy behind you that you are stopped ;D
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Fired up the car today and gave it a oil change. 😎
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Good for you good basic maintenance. I haven't firedamp '53 in months it's setting in the yard with 2 flat tires, Shame on me! :(
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Might have to start driving the 32 to work. It's the only vehicle I have that gets decent gas mileage. 😆
Pontiac ---- gets 20mpg. :o
Cherokee ---- 10mpg towing or not .
Dakota ---- 10 towing, 14-16 city.
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Sounds like a good idea. Cars seem to like being used, keeps them from complaining about being left alone😁
That reminds me, a buddy down south of Joplin Mo owns a mechanic shop. Last year he really got discusted working on the newer stuff. His two boys are real sharp on this newer stuff, so he turned them over to the boys. He went back to working only on the older stuff and projects.
He said in the last 2 months people in his area are dragging the old 60s thru 80s stuff out of the trees and barns for him to get running again. Seems they have had enough of these later model stuff. Just want daily drivers, so he 's been getting them running and to pass safety inspections. Says working on this older stuff is just what he needed. 🙂
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When I was selling parts at the first sign of rising gas prices I'd be selling oil change & tune up kits for Toyota 22Rs. A guy I know would roll out his '55 Studebaker coupe.
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Drove it to work today and while I was on break, took it over to Rhino Liners to get a quote for the running boards. Gonna pull the passenger front fender to get that fixed at the same time.
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Been doing alittle tuning to the carb. I kind of enjoy this.
My carb was tuned to pass I/M when it was in the other car. I decided to fatten it up a bit, maybe pull a few extra hp out of it.
Had to figure out what I had in there. Looking at my notes apparently I had it leaned about 12% , 3 stages. #10 on the book, Jet&rod.
So I went back to baseline #1 just to see how bad it was. Fell on its face, shifted early and quiet exhaust
I swapped out the rod's to spot (#6 on the book ). Brought back the power, small stumble when I mash the pedal but runs cooler in the heat. Doesn't stall when I power brake it though.
Did readjust the idle mixture and set the timing , seems better.
I may spend a day, swap back to #10 and back to #6 to see the difference.
The book says up to 6000ft elevation it's recommended 2 stages leaner #6. Im at 4,300ft.
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Those things are fun to play with because they made it so easy. The one on my son's Stude was tougher. The carb was in a box because of the supercharger. Rod & jet changes took a bit more time.We had to leave the secondaries a bit fat for all the extra air in the upper Rs & we had to go with mechanical secondaries. I did some more figuring beside the chart provided in the manual. All in all it was fun.
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Here's the new TH200R4 Overdrive trans.
Sent it to the trans guy during break. He'll be checking to see if it's rebuilt and getting the dipstick/kick down cable for it along with a shift kit.
I'll order the stall converter for it. Probably higher stall than what I have currently. 2,000/2,500 should do.
Oh and the lockout kit.
More pics when it let's me.
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Looks clean....here is a "discussion" with some CZF specifics (Monte Carlo SS):
https://www.chevelles.com/threads/200-4r-differences-czf-versus-brf.1038025/
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Great find!
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Pic's.
EDNY. Thanks for the info. I have 3:73's . 65mph is a bit loud in this car at 3,000rpm's .
I'll probably have to pull the engine to install this since the crossmember isn't removable.
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Since im going to need a shifter after this swap.
I want to clean up the floor and go with a column shifter. What are my options ?
Would a chevy square body truck column work?
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Rattiac Square body will work, but you will have to deal with the fat column cover and ign switch. If you use a '67-72 Gm pickup, they are the skinny tapered cone column and no ign switch.
Also late 60s to mid 70s Gm vans had that column and a lot were tilt. Sometime in the mid-late 70s the vans got the ign switch
This is the column you may want (60s-70s)
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Good suggestions Sammons. Is there a reason you don't want to use one of the aftermarket ones available?
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Good info Sammons 👍. I didn't even think about the key switch 😄.
Looking at some of the aftermarket units, prices ain't too bad. I may go that route.
Is there anything else I need to consider before swapping out my "death column" ???
Measurements, ect....
What columns are you guys using?
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I'm using a Ididit column in my 32 and had aftermarket in my 38. I wasn't or not very happy with either one. They both have movement in them, A factory one seems to be stiffer.
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I have an Ididit in my 33 with tilt. Shifter is on the floor. I'm happy with mine.
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Ididit in my 32, no problems, also a floor shifter
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I figured I could kill 2 birds with one stone by going to a column shifter. Plus the Dakota has a column shift, I kinda like.
Haven't had one since my 73 nova high school dayz.
Checked in with the trans guy today. Said it looks rebuilt but had some leafs/debris inside from the missing dipstick tube. He's gonna clean out the pump. Should be able to pick it up next week.
Went to the last carshow of the year (labor day).
Felt good getting some miles in it. Car did well in the 100° heat on the highway.
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Update.
Went over today to check on it. He said he pulled the pump, cleaned it out and replaced a bushing.
2 bolts holding the pan on were stripped out and those are getting helicoiled. He'll order the TV cable and the electric lockout kit (toggle switch).
Will be ready Monday.
I have the th350 Lockar flexible trans dipstick I'll probably reuse.
Called Lokar and they said I keep it 3/16 below the full mark on the dipstick for the 200r4.
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I have some column questions.
1.) What length are you running ?
30-32" seems common.
2.) How far from the dashboard is yours ?
I plan on a banjo type steering wheel. The dish is what concerns me.
3.) Any brands of columns to avoid ?
I see ND columns on Amazon . Want to be budget friendly but avoid total junk.
4.) Do I need any reinforcement under the dash or floor area ?
The plan is to swap the trans and do some test runs before this column swap which should coincide with the wood removal/steel installation.
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I used a Iditit 32" mounted it as close to the dash as I could get, I used heavy wall sq, tubing welded between the A pillars behind the dash to mount my drop bracket to. On the floor I used a Iditit floor mount ti support that end. Sorry no pictures
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I also used IDIDIT, they are a little more expensive but worth it and I think a better choice than an off brand. As far as length and fit, I think that is a more personal preference. I used a broomstick with a cardboard steering wheel to determine length and drop. Then I bought the closest column to that length. I also built a steel frame for the dash to bolt to and I bolted the steering wheel drop to that frame, and used an adjustable floor mount as well. I think this is a pretty common approach. A couple things: the drop I used was hinged so there is some room for adjustment, a chose a tilt column, I picked a column long enough to minimize the length of the steering shaft between the column and steering box.
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Picked up the trans after work Friday. He said he did the wiring harness so it's a one wire hookup (grounded internally) and got me a 1800 torque converter (lockup style)
Not sure how I wire it up ?
Something about a toggle switch and brake light switch.
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Looks good, going to be a nice set up. Can't help with wiring, but I'll bet Ed has an idea.
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Your brake switch will have two sets of contacts n/o for brake lights and n/c for lock up release when brakes applied
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Basically fused power to the brake pedal (closed) switch that sends power to the trans, when you step on the pedal the circuit opens and cuts off the power to the trans. Or - toggle on/off power to the trans...easier to use the brake pedal setup.
I would suggest you ask the builder if it is a 12V power circuit setup just to be sure.
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So I have the old school lever brake light switch with only 2 prongs. Wouldn't that send power to my brake lights ???
I plan on using a toggle and the brake switch so I don't forget to shut it off.
Decided to pull the front floor out to do the swap.
Tonight I need to undo the e-brake and the floor is ready to come out.
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Yes, it's a set of normally open contacts, when you step on the pedal it closes the contacts and your brakes light's come on,
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Damn, I just replaced that brake light switch. Guess I need to fab up a new setup .
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This is how I connected the lock up on my El Camino after an engeine and transmission swap. I’ll post a diagram as soon as I get home, for use with a normal two prong brake switch.
The diagram below will provide earth to the lock up solenoid in the transmission, which also requires a positive feed when the ignition is on.
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Here comes. This is how I did in my '57 Pontiac when I had the normal two prong brake light switch.
This provides the lock up solenoid with +12 Volts, and the solenoid also needs to be grounded, ofcourse.
(http://www.waasadata.com/buick/img/lockup.jpg)
+ is positive, ignition on (fused).
#1 When the Lock up activator swith (toggle) is depressed the Relay activates the lock up solenoid.
#2 The red wire loops back to the relay, making it self energized, so the lock up stays activated when the toggle switch is released.
#3 Relay2 is connected Normally Closed ( std 5 prong light relay).
#4 When brakes are applied Relay2 activates, breaking the slef enerized circuit, and releases the Lock up.
This works very well. I added another toggle switch where everything is grounded to manually release the lock up, which can be convinient if you want to accellerate rapidly without moving your foot to blip the brake lights, to release the lock up.
If the lock up stays engaged for some reason, this is not too bad anyway because it disengages right before the car stops. The lock up only works in second through fourth gear.
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Thanks guys. 👍
I picked up a new switch similar to 62131 posted above. This will probably work out better than what I had, more fine tune adjustment.
Called Classic Instruments about the speedometer gear. Should be able to swap it over to the new trans no problem.
In case ya missed it, here's the cold start video.
https://youtu.be/nNFRysNxVcA
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Mocked it up and Started making a new bracket last night.
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Good luck with the wiring. Probably a good choice to go with the right kind of switch.
Good cold start video, great sound too. I couldn't have guessed that it was a V6, I was certain it was an inline!
I had a 4.3 in a '89 Caprice, it didn't sound like that at all.
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I used a rocker switch to lock up and the n/o contacts on the brake switch to unlock it
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Well, transmission is out. I shoulda got extra hand removing it.
One of my dowel pins has been missing for awhile.
I ordered another set from summit. Should be here in a day or two.
In the meantime I'll push the car out and clean up the trans fluid lake. 😬
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That kind of mess is always around for a while even after you clean it up
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With the 200-4R pan off you should have a two prong pressure switch that grounds the lockup solenoid.
Via the square case external connector (3 pins used) the 12v feed should go directly to the (+) side of the lockup solenoid. One prong on pressure switch gets grounded to the case, the other prong feeds the (-) of the solenoid. NOTE: The (-) feed is split and a wire returns to the external case connector...you could use this extra (-) feed to ground an LED that already has a positive feed on your dash. (lights up when the pressure switch closes indicating lockup).
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I love summit. Ordered yesterday, parts came today. 8)
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I have visited their store front in Georgia, it's a warehouse with a store front, you can touch and look at all the items they have in their catalogue,
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Few pics of the progress so far. That crossmember has to go. Painted it grey before installing.
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Looks like a good fit with little modification's needed
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COOL!
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Looking good! I bet it will be a fair bit luxier and quieter at high way speeds with that transmission.
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Nice work! That'll be so much nicer on the hi-way!
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New x-member arrived. It says 5" drop but more like 4" . Cause the pad is welded at a angle. The bar itself is 5, so I'll cut and reweld the pad.
Also a bit of mock-up. The plan is to cut the driver's side near the pad and extend it 3.25" . This should clear the master cylinder by putting the bends under it.
The trans needs to come down 1.25" to be near where it was. Right now the pan is sitting on the original crossmember.
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I used the same cross member, what I did was cut to the width I needed then welded flat stock on the ends drilled holes through the flat stock bolted it to my transmission with a floor jack set tranny at the right height drilled and tapped my frame rails, i used 1/4 plates in that area of my frame when I boxed it, Wish I had pictures to show you
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Today's progress.
Bracket came off and re-welded in the proper position.
Triple/quadruple checked the measurements and started with the chop saw.
Tomorrow tack and mock-up.
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Don't have a picture but for my 33 Chevy I turned one of those universal cross members upside down and welded another loop across the bottom.
In your situation you could turn it upside down and weld in a drop down square framed lower support.
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1st mockup went well. It clears the master cylinder and just need to move up the proportioning valve up a tad. It's a 1/2" short so I'll cut another tube to weld in.
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Looks like it will go together nicely. The parts mocked up on the cardboard like that look good, just missing the welds.
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Been so cold here I haven't gone out to the garage. 🥶
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It is supposed to get up to the mid 30s today but it is sunny. I have to throw rocks out of the road for the propane truck that is supposed to come this week. They don't like getting rocks stuck between the dual tires. It's just two miles. ;D
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It's been that cold here and no storms. Went out for a few hours today, did some fitting, had to get a few things out of the way like fuel line and the rods to the "ride control" system. Still one stubborn bolt to remove. I let it soak in PB and called it a day .
Ran out of propane for the bazooka heater, ran for about a half hour before dying.
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Man i feel like a smuck, got a nice warm in floor heated garage and doing nothing. Turned it down to the lowest i've ever had it this year 68°. It's been set at 77° last 19yrs. Wish you were just across town, i have a warm place for you to work.
When i used dads garage while getting ready to build my house. He had a motel room ac/heat wall unit, no way would it maintain temp. Had to get kerosen for small space heater and 2 stand up house type kerosen heaters to keep it at 60. Stinking mess.
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Haven't touched the car since November. :-X
Had the torch bottles filled up. Started hooking up the TV cable and trans cooler line's.
Looks like the cooler fittings are farther back than the th350. Had to do some bending to get em to thread in. Looks kinda ugly so I'll order another set.
For now I can torch the old crossmember out and weld up the new one. I think I'll make it bolt on just incase it needs to come out one day. I doubt it but...
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While tinkering with the car. The new dog came and hung out. Shop dog 🐶
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Why is a dog a man's best friend?
Lock your dog & your wife in your shop for a week and see which one is happy to see you when you open the door. ::)
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Is that a Labradoodle? I hear they are great dogs. Best dog I ever had followed me everywhere, even in the house. I would go to the bathroom and the dog would wait outside the door for me.
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Looks like she grew a bit. Hopefully she'll be good around shop noises. My previous dogs were excellent around shop work, not even a flinch when the air hammer rattling away. Rowdy on the other hand, not a shop dog. He's fine till i plug in an air tool or start an electric tool.... he scoots off to the kitchen door desperatly wanting back in the house🥴
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Pretty good security dog too. One day I snuck in and she heard the door squeak . Started barking a loud low bark then charged to the door.
At night you can't see her coming. The gate got opened once. I went to go find her thinking she ran away. Nope just playing in the front yard like a little horse.
I acquired this old roof rack from a 30's car I worked on long ago. I decided to see what it looked like.
Not sure what to think but it has wood slats 😎.
Im thinking it needs some modification. Lower and maybe put a slight rake to it.
We'll see. For now, it sits.
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Rattiac, did you get her shaved? I checked with my Vet years ago with my 2nd Golden to get shaved for summer. He said that they would not be any cooler but warmer with out the under coat. Maybe thats just on Golden Retrievers?
Mines no gaurd dog at all, he never met a stranger🙄
Cool roof rack, regaurdless of what you do with it.
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I like the rack! It will come in handy.
Dogs? My pair are dealing with bees. I'll post the details on another thread.
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That rack is very sharp, one of a kind!
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I'm not sure I would like a roof tack on a 30's era car, just doesn't seem period correct just my opinion.
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Did you ever see The Grapes of Wrath? ::)
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Rattiac, did you get her shaved?
Yeah, just before our trip. Wasn't sure how hot it was going to be. She seems to like it.
While im waiting for a regulator to arrive.
I have most of the "ride control" system down (rods/levers) I decided to pull off what's on the firewall. I did keep the pull knobs though on the column support.
If anyone is looking for this stuff for a full restoration let me know ?
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The transmission is finally sitting full weight on the new crossmember.
Needed to get familiar with the torch again before cutting. Some practice.
Trying not to catch anything on fire 🔥. Swept the floor, fire extinguisher nearby , wetted down the floor and a small water bottle to keep flames down.
I was so dreading this. 😟
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I decided to sweat it out and go out to the shop and finish final welding, drilled some holes in the frame and bolted up the crossmember. 93° in there.
Anyways, glad that's done.
Swamp cooler needs a new switch. They sell a new harness for it at $90. No thanks , I'll wire up a house switch.
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I'm not sure I would like a roof tack on a 30's era car, just doesn't seem period correct just my opinion.
Did you ever see The Grapes of Wrath? ::)
Roof racks may have not been invented until the 40's.
It looks like in "Grapes of wrath" most of the vehicles used old mattresses to put stuff on and slept on a overnight stay.
They even stuffed stuff in the fenders behind the headlights. One looks like it has a makeshift rack or it could be a spare tire, hard to tell from the pic.
I showed my wife this movie, she loves it. Watches it whenever it comes on.
Here's an interesting site about the movie/vehicles involved.
https://www.imcdb.org/m32551.html
If I use it it'll probably be temporary and use a quick buckle type mount. Since my spare would be in the way for a traditional luggage rack, this seems a better option.
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My dad was one of those Okies. He made more than one trip during the depression, one by freight train. Ince he took us through the Valley of the Green Giant and showed us some of the Picker Camps he worked in. When he & I moved the family possessions from Texas to California in 1959 we had a lot of our stuff tied on the '52 Dodge pickup & the trailer we pulled. He called it the Second Coming of the Okies. It was mostly done on 66. I just got home today from a Texas trip to the family reunion some done on pieces of 66. That road is home to me. :)
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Over the weekend I was able to get the swamp cooler going , mounted permanently and get some work done on the car. Was making great progress till I got to the transmission lines. Apparently walker radiators have 1/8" npt fittings. So I was able to get an adapter today locally.
Hoping to have fluid in it and fired up before I leave for Bonneville.
Anyway the garage is much better inside on a 100° day.
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Well... Friday I added 10qrts to the trans and fired it up. Hasn't run since Oct last year. The lifters made all sorts of clatter. Pulled the valve covers and poured oil all over everything. I was a quart low anyway. Once that quieted up , I ran it through the gears. No reverse and barely wanted to go forward in 1st gear.
I shut it down and proceeded to throw a wrench across the shop with some very choice words 🤬🤬🤬.
Walked away before I set the damn thing on fire 🔥.
Gonna have a word with the trans guy Monday and see what he wants to do , give him a chance to fix it.
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Some days it just doesn't work.
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Dang, i feel your disapointment and anger. I was tired of $100 used trannys for my R/T that didn't work anybetter than what i pulled out. In the summer of '77 i was banking good overtime at the service station and ponied up the nearly $600 for a "Profesional" name company rebuilt with a local mechanic. It gluided in to second and slipped bad going into drive. They recomended the mechanic reset the bands. No go, they wouldn't pay the freight for return, nor the labor to R&R it again. I was beyond pissed and took it back to the house where i abandoned it for 8 years.😡
You might recheck fluid level. My mechanic buddy always put them on jack stands and run thru the gears with no load to "purge" the system and then recheck fluid before drive test. Sometimes the torque convert doesn't fill right away.
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You guys are making me nervous. :( I have a $2500 package sitting in the bed of my '06 Silverado right now waiting for a local shop to get time for it next weekend. New rebuilt trans and the stuff it takes.
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I seem to have bad luck when it comes to rebuilds. My V6 ran great for 2 weeks after the rebuild, then steam out the right exhaust pipe.
Took it back and he sleeved only the one cylinder :o.
Installed it drove it around the block and the cylinder next to it started steaming.
Let the shop know about it. He said get me another block .
So far that is holding up to 2 vehicles and 15,000 miles .
Had to rebuild a jeep 2.5 ltr. Another shop had to do it twice.
They put the wrong rotation water pump in.
So when this happened I said "F#@!=÷g figures" and the wrench went flying.
Talked with the trans guy. He's a week out but have it drivable for him.
Guess I'll finish putting the floor and seat back in.
I want to redo the floor when I get it back.
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Reinstalled the floor so I could mark a new brace but going to pull it back out.
Im thinking of playing with the new bead roller and rolling some lines. What do you think is stronger , going across the floor or front to back lengthwise ?
My floor needs to be re-done anyhow.
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Strength wise, think of a sheet of corrigated tin roofing. Strong front to back and flimsy side to side. But pending your underside bracing... six one half dozen the other 😁
I would run front to back under the seat areas for sure. Most factory pans run front to back ribs under seat, left to right ribs in the rear foot wells and toss up on the front wells. Mopar used a lot of diagonals on the front foot wells.
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New brace is welded in and just happened to have enough aluminum diamond plate leftover for a toe-board. Gonna weld up a frame with 1/2" square tubing and rivet the diamond plate to the face. With some sound deadening in between should quiet up that area.
Pattern is traced out, so the wood piece can go back in temporarily.
Hopefully might be able to order a new steering column before Xmas. We'll see what the trans is going to cost first. 😟
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Went to hook up the e-brake . Crawled underneath and noticed the mechanism is touching the transmission. Had plenty of clearance with the th350. 🤷♂️
Another original part goes bye by.
Going to the junkyard this weekend. Any e-brake 's you guys recommend ?
I'd like something low profile like the Lokar unit.
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After some quick Google searches, I found a bunch of e-brakes for a Suzuki samurai with cable, gaskets for dirt cheap. Probably cheaper than a junkyard handle .
Well off to the junkyard to see what they have.
Also looking into a roof section . Any vehicle roofs recommended ?
I looked at my Cherokee but the ridges are way too long.
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We should all know by now that when you change one thing it messes up something else. Good luck in your search. Let us know what you find.
My '06 has been at the shop for the new tranny swap for a week. It was supposed to be a two day deal. I am going to call him now and tell him I'm taking the money we settled on to the bar at 2:00 PM and start buying rounds. He can have what is left when he drives up in my truck. :)
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Spent about 2 hrs at the junkyard. Once inside I beelined it to the jap/compact cars. Trying to move quickly I was only looking at cars with the interior taken apart. Wanted to find one with the mechanics and cable. under the floor like the Lokar unit. I came across a few but a 4door Geo Tracker fit the bill. Pulled it quickly but stood in line forever.
Now they charge you a $3.70 "environmental fee" . Whatever, I just chalked it up to cheap shipping.
Once home I already knew where to mount it. Had to cut a 3" x 1/2" slit in the floor. Had to get creative with the cable's but.... we have a E-brake now that actually works. The original didn't have enough throw.
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Old e-brake out. Yesterday I also installed a new brake light switch , beefier bracket to work with the Overdrive lockup feature.
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Seat and belts are in. Called up a tow truck. I didn't drive it over cause it has a bit of shudder going forward.
They had the tyranny out when I got off work.
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Neat e-brake install.
That pontiac looks great. Hope you get the transmission sorted.
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Thanks.
Drove it home Friday. Had a race to go to, so it's sat since then.
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Hope everything works well now!
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It was so hot driving home, I didn't enjoy it.
Noticed a few things during that drive. I have a vibration somewhere and when he had on jackstands with the rear tires spinning going thru the gears I noticed the LR tire hopping up and down.
Thinking my axles were not drilled right when I changed to the chevy bolt pattern may be it.
Yesterday I put it on stands, let the rear wheels spin but wheels looked straight, had a slight out of round in the tire. Nothing drastic.
I need to drive it more. Brakes were rusty from sitting and pulsated a bit but better when I got home.
Also the speedometer isn't working right. Called classic and they said to recalibrate it .
Adjusted the e-brake and backed off the self adjusters .
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Looking forward to hear how it's going with the brakes and wheel balance, when
you get a cooler day to drive, and will be able to enjoy it.
It's fall here already, so it being too warm to enjoy driving feels pretty distant...
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It was 95°f here today. Went straight to the garage after work. Looked everything over. Lowered the tires to 30psi . When it was cooler I took it for a drive to recalibrate the speedometer.
Had me take it up to a GPS 60mph and read what the speedo was saying. It read 63 but would dive off to zero and jump back to 63 repeatedly. The pulse sensor was a bit loose, hopefully that fixes it.
Wow what a difference. Overdrive chilling at 2200rpm. 😎
3rd is still 3,000 though.
Makes it alot quieter and handled better at those speeds.
Im actually excited to remove all that wood and start putting in steel. So far im pretty happy about it 😊
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Nice! Glad to see a :) after you drove it!
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After driving it to work. Still some vibes. I wonder about the polyurethane trans mount ? May change it to rubber.
I'll stick my gopro under the frame and take some video .
Called classic again. He said try some shrink tubing on the square drive to fill any gap for the speedo. It failed, it reads zero.
Trans shop recommended a new speedo gear. I can do that. Also gave me a cap if I pull the driveshaft for a rebalance. Fluids are spendy these days.
I have all weekend. Hopefully I can sort it out.
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I hope you find it. Those kinds of things are annoying and often hard to find.
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Seems those ES polyurethane mounts have alot of hate in the camaro world.
Nobody has these rubber mounts in town 😟. So....its summit to the rescue. 😎
Should be here Tuesday if not sooner. I'll be working Monday
I figure a good place to start anyway.
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So I've been going over my leftover wires to hook up the "OD Lockup".
I have a red, brown and purple . Purple is for the power antenna but there is 2 purple wires. I believe the one end is hooked up to the stereo and the other end to antenna.
Since I don't have that and need a keyed source. I'll attach purple to the "acc" on the switch and use the other end for the toggled lockout.
After the toggle switch to the brake switch.
Still sorting out the speedometer. I pulled off the pulse sensor and attached a cordless drill. Seems to work and then drops off. Playing with the wires to see if that affects it.
New rubber mount is arriving tomorrow.
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Wires! Why does it always have to be wires? :o ::)
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Yep. 😉
New rubber trans mount is in. Also wired in a green led toggle switch for the O.D.
Kinda like a "eco" button on a modern car. 😄
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After messing with the speedo. I took the gear out and went to the transmission shop, he gave me a new gear that looked like a better square drive. Brought it home ran a few tests with the multimeter.
It failed.
So I ordered a new pulse generator. This time the 16c unit. It's the 90° unit for tight fit area's. I was told it's a more heavy duty unit. Should be here tomorrow.
Filled it back up with atf and went for a drive. What a difference with the new rubber trans mount. No vibration anymore. 😎
The car did great. Also tried the lockup. When I flipped the switch I couldn't feel any difference. I'll contact the trans shop again .
Pics from a old gas station just outside of town.
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Nice that you got rid of the vibration issue!
The lock up on my Pontiac quit working when standing in winter storage. A couple times it
has engaged the lock up, but only for a couple seconds, so I assume it's the solenoid that has gone bad.
When I removed the ecu on my '84 Caprice I had to make a switch to engage the lock up. I connected it
so that when the brake lights light up, the lock up disengages. Also,when pushing the switch the other
way it frees the lock up for passing a car or driving up a steep incline. It took two relays and a diode to
make this work.
That Pontiac looks cool!
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I got the new pulse generator for the speedometer but when I went to bolt it on today and the nut wasn't deep enough to thread on. 🤬
Ya think buying the better part would be the same depth threads but no. Another engineer to kick in the teeth.
Summit will issue my return Monday morning.
Next part will be new rear axle studs. The shop that redrilled the bolt pattern for some strange reason just threaded in bolts. They work until you unbolt the wheel. Had to put lock washers behind the bokts/studs to prevent that , but one is buggered up now and so they have to go.
Also the saltflats received more rain Thursday and are flooded again so... world finals is canceled. Was so looking forward to working with that team. Next year.
On good/exiting news.
Going fishing with my dad tomorrow. He's feeling good enough to leave the house after 6 months. 😊🎣
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Speedos are generally a pain in the ass, especially once everything is not stock.
Glad you are going with proper studs, screw in is just not right.
Happy your Pappy feels good enough to go fishing! (..."snagging cropy" doesn't rhyme) :)
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Hope you and your Dad enjoy the day of fishing!
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I got the new pulse generator for the speedometer but when I went to bolt it on today and the nut wasn't deep enough to thread on. 🤬
Ya think buying the better part would be the same depth threads but no. Another engineer to kick in the teeth.
Summit will issue my return Monday morning.
Next part will be new rear axle studs. The shop that redrilled the bolt pattern for some strange reason just threaded in bolts. They work until you unbolt the wheel. Had to put lock washers behind the bokts/studs to prevent that , but one is buggered up now and so they have to go.
Also the saltflats received more rain Thursday and are flooded again so... world finals is canceled. Was so looking forward to working with that team. Next year.
On good/exiting news.
Going fishing with my dad tomorrow. He's feeling good enough to leave the house after 6 months. 😊🎣
I have a small collection of those VSS units...mostly 4 pulse. If you are looking for a signal from the transmission to the speedo, might be able to help...are you looking for 2 or 4 pulse VSS? How much clearance do you have for the sensor body?
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I appreciate that guys and Ed, I have a 16 unit. Summit is already sending me the right pulse generator. I just sent the other back on lunch break.
It was good to get out with pops. He came over at 6am and I drove his jeep to a close lake he hasn't been to yet. By 10am he was getting tired so we called it a day. Good day though.
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Speedo is fixed and recalibrated. Now just waiting on the trans shop to get the lockup working. It's hunting season. He says bring it back in November.
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Tuesday the car went back to the trans shop to get the lockout working. Just a pressure switch needed replaced.
Tonight I took it out on the highway for a test and passed .
3rd gear - 3,000rpms / Overdrive 2,200 / lockout 2,000rpms.
Yay this part of the project Done. 😎
Already planning the next stage. I'd like to address the steering, cause that new corvair box sucks 🤨 but...... the steel needs to go in first, once I get to the front and install a new steering column then I'll get to the steering box.
What do you all think about this uni-steer rack & pinion system ???
A fellow ratrodder told me, once he put r&p steering in his car drives like a dream.
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Glad you got everything working good there.
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Thank you. It only took 2 yrs to finally get this done. By the time I got the transmission, had the local shop look it over and give the thumbs up to install it and then find out the clutches were bad cause someone prior had cleaned everything out, send the whole car back for a rebuild. Wait for him again because of hunting season (October) to get the lockup working . It's been a long process.
I weighed the pros and cons of a internet bought unit vs. finding a core and having it rebuilt.
Bottom line is finding a shop that knows these older 80's transmissions and one that was close by was what won out.
I was a very patient man. Lots of horror stories on internet trans.
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Was going to post on your rack & pinion thread, i see your deleting it. Wasn't really on the R&P anyway. About the gear box. Speedway use to sell Flaming River Corvair boxes, (don't know about last few years). Heard a lot of complaints on them and a few were going to install the bigger 525 manual box(1965-91) avalible in 2 ratios,some were 6 turns lock to lock but some including 2nd gen Camaros used 4.5 lock to lock. But back to your Corvair box, chances are it was not set up correct or cheap China.
Up into my 20s, i use to adjust that nut you did. Then it would get loose(play) again, reset then steering got tight, wouldn't easily return to center on its own. My old mech/machinist buddy John caught me doing this and told me to stop doing that. The real adjustment needed to be at the input side,(input to sector adjust). Then set preload on sector (pinion). You might try that, it may just not have the right torque set on the input from factory.
Here is a video, not a Corvair box, but an expanation. Hope this may help. Just let me know if you want me to delete my post.
http://youtu.be/VRO1ne-SkZo?si=EOQLmVVvFhKQs9yq
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Thanks Sammons.
I just happened to watch that last night and was wondering about that adjustment. Ran out to the garage a few minutes ago to see if I have that big nut. It's on the front of my box, no input shaft going through it but im going to give it a shot this weekend.
Now if I heard his instructions right I'll do this. Correct me if I'm wrong.
1.) Back off the (chrome cap) small lockout and thread out the adjuster to last threads
2.) Unscrew bug locknut and torque the big bolt to 30ftlbs, back off 1/2" turn, tighten locknut.
3.) Tighten small adjuster till I feel some tension and back off till binding is gone.
Also I was told I can add grease through one of the chrome cap screws removed. Is this correct ?
There's no grease zerk.
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I sure hope i'm not sending down the rabbit hole and that a Corvair is like the other saginaw's🤔 Pretty much sounds right, let me rewatch the whole video again. But the 30lbs torque was spec for the 605 box. I think you can add grease thru any access hole. Wrongly, so many people add 80/90 wt gear oil.
Let me see if i have the procedures and torque specs for the Corvair in one of my old Motors or Chilton manuals. I dig around tomorrow. I presume due to a shorter shaft, yours will be the 1965 and newer Corvair style? I found a Corvair (Corvair Center forum), site that looked like it had the specs, but you must register to even look🙄
I just found this on the "t-bucket forum"
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Rattiac, went thru the manuals i have at the house. The Chilton i have doesn't cover the Corvair "unit repair" section. The older Motor manuals i have are Truck repair.
I googled "1966 corvair steering gear box worm gear bearing preload torque specs" the 2 main sites that pop up are "Corvair Center forum" and "t-bucket forum". Corvair venter you must register to view but rebuild procedure and pics on it. I would presume its corvair only site, so you have a '66 Corvair if ask😁 On the T-bucket forum site no problem with your Pontiac application. On there i saw a torque spec of 3.5 to 4.5 inch pounds torque on the worm gear bearingspreload. Best i can do here, good luck!
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I appreciate that Sammons . You did alot of digging for me. Thank you much. I'll probably tear into that this weekend.
I called my Kiwi friend and he gave me some info on what to look at on my axle. I did find a local chevy axle but he wanted way too much for it. Thinks he's gonna get rich off of it. Yeah right. 😄
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Glad to. I just hope your bearing preload is lose on the worm and that will stop your play issue. Best case, it just needed adustment. Worst, well sounds like you were gonna change it out anyway.
Dang, all those guys have been stuffing Mustang 2 front suspensions and just tossing out the axle, springs and old gear box. My Uncle did that a lot for people on those AD early 50s Chevys, and just tossed the axle out in the iron scrap pile. Should be lots out there for scrap iron price.
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Before leaving to visit family I took a look at that box. I checked the front big bolt and was able to get almost 1/2 a turn in. When I went to adjust the small screw I had noticed all 3 Allen bolts were loose. I put both big and small screws back where they originally at. Starting at zero, I tightened the 3 loose Allen bolts then adjusted the big one in and then the smaller one. Locked em both down. Oh I did add some grease through one of the Allen screws.
On the highway it made a huge difference. All the play is gone and stays in its lane much better. Actually did 75mph no problem. Im very happy with this. 😎
Although this is very good, I do feel this is too fast (ratio) and may still look into the Saginaw 525 box to slow down the steering input at highway speeds . The Vega box feels more sportier than it should be for this car.
For now it'll do and I can move on to other things.
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Glad you found it and fixed it. You can make it better later.
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Geez, thats kinda scary. I guess quality control skipped that one. I'm glad you got the play out, those 3 lose bolts may sure have caused the little sector adjuster to change on you.
I don't care for quick steer either, thats why i don't care for R&P. On a lot of C2-C3 Corvettes, there are two settings on the spindle arms. If you put tie rod in short hole, quick steer, far hole normal slower. Had a few in the quick hole, always moved them to outter. Only two ways to slow ratio would be longer spindle arm or possibly shorter pitman arm off gearbox.
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I would have never thought about a shorter pitman arm. Good Info here. From what I've read, 1" shorter could be all the difference I need.
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That is good information either for trying to make an adjustment or for someone putting something together with mixed parts like my roadster.
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Rattiac, i didn't know if your setup was able to modify it. I like to try all avenues to make something work if i already bought the parts, sometimes you just have to jumpship and buy something else.
Sixball, i hope it may help others. As a young kid in the mid to late 60s, dad and friends were into the end of Jolopy begining of Super Modified dirt racing and most cars were garage built. While the other kids were outside of the shop playing, i was standing in the corner watching and listening trying to wrap my little brain around how it worked and how it was made.
They were dealing with old gearboxs with 6-7 turns lock to lock, and trying to get quicker steering. The longer they made the pitman arm the more power it took to turn and most used a large 18-19" steering wheel. But if you were hooked up good in the corners, you carried the left front off the ground and it turned easier😁
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Rattiac Good to hear you got your steering box to work better.
Driving at those speeds, maybe an increased caster angle would help to keep the Pontiac
on the straight and narrow. A wedge sandwiched between the springs and the axle. On
my Essex changing from 4 to 7 degree wedges made a world of difference.
Maybe you could try and loosen the U-bolts and slide in a narrow 1/8" thick
piece of sheet metal and go for a test ride. If there's an improvement you could have someone
cut a wedge that fits.
I also learned something new today, looking at the first page of this thread, there's a pic
of the top of the grille. I didn't know Pontiac used a version of the red Dart emblem as early
as the thirties. As far as I know, at the time when my 1957 Pontiac was made, they were
phasing out the Chief head, and went back (apparently) to the Dart that was in the
1959 Bonneville grille and then stayed.
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Mine would be too thin to redrill. So I'll order this arm, thick enough I can modify it with plenty of meat. Others have modified it as well.
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May be getting a tilt steering column here shortly . Is there anything I need to be looking out for internally ?
Like mechanical workings, clearances, play, ect .
I almost grabbed a caprice column but there was no shifter indicator.
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Not a whole lot goes wrong with GM columns. On tilts you may have loose screws under pins that may need tightened. This is most common on low seat cars or high pickuos from people using the steering wheel to pull them self up to get out or in. If it's got the wobbles there, you'll need a pivot pin puller to get down to the screws. Lisle tools sells one for under $15. The other things to check is turn signal switch and steering wheel lock.
A lot of columns had a cable pull that opperated the indicator on the dash cluster. If i get one of those, i just grab a 67-72 chevy truck indicator and drill 2 holes and screw it on. Some had srcrew on pointer , you can make one to screw on or glue on. Jim Carter pick up sells a new clear indicator with the O for overdrive lens that fits right in the Gm bezel.
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Awesome. Thanks Sammons for all the useful information.
Been spying a few columns on Ebay as well. Some have 2yr warrantys. I was watching Matt's off road recovery his big wrecker build. His expensive ididit column broke on the trail and trail mater had to weld it back up. The tilt didn't work after that, but it turned me off on that brand .
I think I would like the key option though.
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I sold a car a decade or so ago, the guy wanted to know if i were interested in taking trade a bunch of new parts he had for a project he sold. Quite a few parts i took, but the shinny ididit tilt, no. Tilt felt funky, wasn't impressed with the rest. He wanted $500 on trade for it, no way!
I'll stick to a good old tried and true GM column.
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Before I order a column , I've been doing some measuring and would like to keep the wheel the same distance from the dash as stock.
And of course that led me to steering wheels and thier depths.
What are your thoughts on depths. What looks too deep or shallow for a 30's car ???
I've been looking at a Grant with wood grain. It has a 2" dish to it.
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I like the 2" depth. I don't care for the really deep ones or the flat ones.
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That's pretty close to what I was looking at for my Pontiac too. Not a bad choice, I think.
Only thing better I can think of would be one of those down sized tri-five Chevy BelAir
steering wheels, but they're probaly silly expesive.
A friend of mine bought one for his '55 BelAir, and sold the original one to me, which I'm
planning on using in my Buick. But it's huge.
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Steering wheel is on it's way. Searching for the column is getting kinda overwhelming. Trying to find something with the neutral safety switch on the column and possibly the key. Looking at ebay, soooo many choices with prices ranging from $158 to 1,100.
What would you pay for a column ???
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Only thing better I can think of would be one of those down sized tri-five Chevy BelAir
steering wheels, but they're probaly silly expesive.
A friend of mine bought one for his '55 BelAir, and sold the original one to me, which I'm
planning on using in my Buick. But it's huge.
Essex i've cut down several of those, one '55 and a few '57s. I just got a doner 15" steering wheel and cut the hoop off. Took old wheel and ground the Plaskon plastic back to the steel core, cut to fit new 15" hoop. Welded it back on and used epoxy to build back the Plaskon and steering grip back up and a skim coat of filler to smooth up and paint. The stock center horn ring will be about 1/2" away from the steering wheel but clears fine.
Rattiac, i guess i'm behind the times. Our local salvage yard (before he closed) only charged me $75 for GM tilt columns.
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Found a ebay supplier who deals only in steering columns and decent prices. I'm just waiting on the measurements for the neutral safety switch, to make sure it clears my floor before ordering.
Figured I could do this mod before tearing the car apart for steel.
Sammons..
The junkyards here are pretty scarce on 80's cars. Even 90's stuff is hard to find, except Hondas.
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Speaking of steering columns, I installed a pro-stock type front clip on my 66 Nova. The front clip is set up for disc brakes, Mustang II rack, Chevy motor mounts and no need for the special 66-67 Nova oil pan.
Shortened the column about 1-7/8" and installed a wheel bearing and race to replace the bushing style end. Took a piece of 2" round stock and milled it so it slides into the column and the race gets pressed in.
Might be confusing but to have adjustments for the gaps inside the car between the steering wheel and shift column I installed washers to act as shims. Adding or removing them adjusts the column gaps if needed (not needed).
The shorter column also produced the perfect U-joint angles, the double-D shaft also clears the new frame. It's all mocked up so I can steer the car around my shop.
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Very neatly installed Steering setup, Ed.
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Ed, very nice setup you have there. I'll bet that column bearing and race set up is smooth as silk. Never thought of doing that before.
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Thanks guys, attached a picture of what I started with. The steering shaft is actually part of the steering box and must be cut off as close to the box as possible. The shaft is 3/4" in diameter and the bearing ID is also 3/4" (perfect). Yes..very smooth.
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Nicely done EDNY. 8)
I have one last question before I pull the trigger on a column. I noticed some columns have the neutral safety switch and another sensor above it. I believe it's a (ignition module), correct me if im wrong but could I not hook that up and be OK ?
Could use a bit of schooling.
The column im looking at shows different pics making it a bit confusing.
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I've never heard of an ignition modual on a column, but i know nothing about the columns newer than the 70s.
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I thought it sounded odd. Been looking at schematics.
Anyway I posted a pic. It's above the NSS.
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Rattiac, if that has the key on the column, that rod runs down to it, its basicly your ignition switch.
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Sorry for the late response...that switch controls the headlight dimmer and has a lever inside the column directional lever down to the that switch. It also distributes the power from the battery to the fuse block. Constant 12v and 12v with key on.
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Ed, that appears to be a pre 1977 column. If it dosen't have that "tumor" with multiple fuctions on the turn switch handle, it should be just the ignition switch.
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Sweet. Thanks guys. I'll be ordering that soon.
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Here's a funny twist of events.
This morning I ordered the tilt steering column with shifter and key.
Then after work I went over to my dad's to sell a old dirt bike we had sitting around. While looking through stuff in our storeroom for more stuff to sell, I glanced over in the corner at a 72 truck hood and sitting beside it was a 68 GMC steering column w/shifter. 😲
Now I'm seriously thinking of canceling the order. Or can use it for mock-up and pass it along to someone down the road.
This does give me info on some critical measurements I needed.
Anybody need a column ?
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Lol, ain't that the way it goes😁 Usually i know i have something but can't find it. Order one and find the one i knew i had.
Well... if you don't need the tilt and don't mind a key on the dash, and it won't give you a black eye as a buyer, use it.
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There is a message there. Either you have too much stuff (blame it on Dad) or you are getting old. If it happens again the same day it is age. :) Like Sammons I know I have it but don't know where I put it. Next are the things I find when looking for something else and I have an "Oh yeah, I forgot I bought that already!" moment. Then there are the more worrisome moments, " What is that and where the heck did that come from?" This is why part of my shop reorganization effort is hanging the roadster parts & other cool stuff on the walls in plain sight and resisting hanging junk infant of it. Maybe even get rid on some stuff? ::)
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Well one thing I'm glad I hung onto was the wiring kit box. It has the column connector and extra wires if needed. Not sure why but I'm looking forward to that part.
I'll need to order a adapter kit for the new 6 hole style steering wheel.
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Column came in Friday along with the steering wheel adapter from summit.
Did a ton of measuring and the only thing I didn't account for was the brake pedal. According to my measurements. It may hit the shifter lever at the bottom. 😟
Now I may have to send it back. Possibly use that 68 column,, cause that is the exact length the 33 column is.
Saturday I'll cut that out and make sure before I contact the seller.
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Seems every time you change one thing, you would have to change ten other ones down the line. Hope you get it sorted so that you can both steer and stop.
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My favorite steering columns are from S10 and full size trucks with manual transmission pre-air bag. The S10 is the easiest to work with because it's shorter.
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Well, it's official. The old "Death Column" is out.
No turning back now.
Used some protective plastic for carpets to cover anything important. After comparing all 3 columns side by side to eachother, im starting to feel better about it.
I'm gonna re-use the column dash mount but modified of course. 😉
It has the ride control & freewheel knobs I'd like to keep for historical reasons. It's magnetic so I can weld to it.
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Sounds good, you have made a decision. It always feels betterwhen you have a plan to work off of.
That car looks very cool, if I'd live close by, I 'd come over and ask for a ride to some place where
I can buy you a coffee.
So cool with the wood doors and all.
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Thanks Essex. Hope ya have your shots up to date. 😉💉
Today I was able to get the dash mount out. One bolt broke and the other had to get cut.
Looking at the mount itself, I'm starting to wonder if I can weld to it.
???
It's magnetic and taking a grinder to it, looks like steel.
EDIT )))
I took it over to a professional welder by my work. He said it is cast steel and mig welding to it is no problem. He welded the 2 halves together. I'll do the bracket.
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Column mount all cut and ready for welding.
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Everything is all mocked up. Measurements from the dash to the steering wheel all line up.
The brake pedal comes to the end of the column. If I flip the bracket it'll clear. Looking at a cable kit. I think I could rotate this anywhere I wanted right ?
Boy that steering wheel is making the rest of the interior look bad.
😁
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Looks good! Nice work.
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Progress! Looks great!
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Column is mounted. Just need to figure out how the shifter goes in.
No instructions. Has a spring and pin.
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Rattiac, love your steering wheel. Looks like early Camaro/ Corvette.
Look inside the shift boss, you should see a little hole the spring sets in. Put some heavy grease on the spring to hold it there, shove shifter in and pin it. Pending spring stiffness, may have to hold in hard. Could go to one side with a punch to align the hole while you insert the pin.
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Thanks Sammons. I found a set of instructions through Summit racing for thier columns.
I have today off so once it warms up I'll be going out to the shop.
Need to get a new set of screwdrivers. I thought I had a good set but they all started breaking the handles recently.
Hoping to sort out the lower mount and get ready for the wiring.
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The steering wheel look great!
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Thanks Essex. Today I installed the shifter and levers. It's a bit more "bling" than I wanted but it'll do.
Also I used the lower mount from the 68 column.
I'm gonna make a list of things I need to order.
1.) 1"dd to 3/4" universal joint.
2.) 3/4" dd Rod
3.) Steering column pigtail kit. Mine had no connectors, just the plastic plug.
4.) A new tachometer. Mine won't mount to the column.
5.) Column shifter linkage kit.
For now everything is on hold , till parts come.
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Oh wow, you have LOADS of space around the column where the shifter linkage connects.
I have been worrying today about everything that will have to fit at the back of the engine
on my Buick.
I'm assuming your shifter linkage will be fairly straightforward to set up, hope so.
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Well you do have 6 more cylinders than me 😳😎.
Parts came in and today I hooked up the new borgensen joint and shaft. Seems huge due to the 1"dd on the column end .
Re-entered the steering wheel.
Hopefully I can get to the linkage and wiring this weekend. The significant other wants to spring clean.
Wondering about the horn button. This steering wheel has 2 wires.
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I do have six more cylinders, but the engine is actually almost exactly as long as a small block
Chevrolet with a long water pump. so I guess your engine might actually be longer than mine.
Looks like the steering shaft, 3/4" D-D, goes pretty close to the headers. Funny that there's
never too much space, even if it looks good at the planning stage.
Regarding the horn button, maybe it's just a switch which lets the electrons flow from one
terminal to the other when you press the button?
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That's just the angle of the pic. Plenty of clearance by the header.
I made the motor mounts in anticipation of having 2 more cylinders.
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Today I hooked up the Summit shifter linkage kit. According to the instructions in park the lower adjustment is made but after park, the indicator is off. R, N, D, 3,2,1.
Low 1 is reading L2.
When I set it to L1 to L1 , then I can't get it into park.
Tried a few times and walked away. Plus it's still winter here. 🥶
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Just with the stock linkage on my '06 Solverdo (in good condition) it took 3 cables before I got one that would adjust correctly.
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Yesterday I left everything loose and went through the gears, then it all lined up well. Tightened it up and still good. Park and reverse are a bit to the left but I'm not gonna be picky.
Now I can start wiring.
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There's always some fiddling to get the shifter linkage to work right, when you're modifying things.
Good work getting it to function right.
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Rattiac, glad it settled in to a happy medium for you. Sometimes all you need is to walk away for a while😁
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Was going over the wiring. Couldn't get the big plug to connect, had to do some sanding to the edges to fit right.
Spring finally hit here, so I hooked up the trailer and went out to the Pony express trail in search of the wild horse herd . Camping at Simpson Springs. All I found was 3 horses scattered across the valley range. Stars were spectacular though. Helped a guy broken down but his was a catastrophic trans issue. Missing dipstick.
He had a ride coming and eventually a tow truck showed up before dark.
This weekend is yard work. Hopefully back to the car next week.