Rusty Bowtie
General Category => General Discussion - Intros => Topic started by: Rattiac on October 03, 2022, 02:34:14 PM
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I get engine heat coming through those footboard braces and the body near the edges. . How are you guys sealing up those gaps. Pics would be great.
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Maybe I'm not understanding your specific problem, but I just used a typical seam sealer on all of the under body and subframe joints. Then a rubberized foil tape on the interior floor with jute insulation on top of that and finished it off with carpet.
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I used seam sealer on the seams and cover the interior floor with a sound deadener covered that with a jute carpet padding then my carpet, used a rubberized sealer/coating underneath
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This large gap between the body and the footboard area.
I was thinking of making a sheet metal plate with a bent lip to weld to the body but.... wouldn't want to warp the body. Plus there's a slight curve.
Wondering what you all have done.
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Rattiac, i believe your on the right track.
If you make a posterboard template first, (follow the slight convex curve that the cowl makes), then mark that a 1/4" back for your lip to the body side. If you follow that line and slowly bend with vise grips, then smooth out by tapping with hammer on a vise... that will still have the curve. I'd leave an 1/8" gap at the body and get some 3M strip calk (or similar) to fill the gap on the lip. Strip calk won't harden and can be removed.
Then cut where needed on the toe board. I would use the wide head trim screws to fasten to the floor so you can easily remove if you need down there.
Just a thought😁
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In that area I made a triangular piece and attached it to my A pillar put a lip along the floor, stitch welded along the floor, fire wall and A pillar, I did not attach to the outer skin at all. It gave me something to attach the interior kick panel to.
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And rust mort the hell out of it before you lose access to it.