Rusty Bowtie
General Category => General Discussion - Intros => Topic started by: munch on March 16, 2019, 06:45:08 PM
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I had a couple of surgeries last year and the car sat up about 8 months, then I had it painted. I have now reassembled it and also replaced a crimped brake line. I bleed the brakes until I had just fluid and the pedal was building. But when I crank it up the pedal goes to the floor and stays there. I suspect the MC. What do you think?
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I had a problem with the diaphragm in my power brake booster. When I'd start the car up and push the pedal down it would stay down. I disconnected the vacuum to the booster and the pedal worked fine. I replaced the booster and it solved the problem.
Tom
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I always wind up bleeding brakes by myself so I use the gravity method. I start by opening the farthest bleeder, open it up a turn, remove the reservoir cap and make sure the fluid is top'd up. Then I wait until the fluid flows out of the bleeder in a smooth flow (coffee break time). If it's jerky, bubbling and not flowing smoothly I wait...the smooth flow becomes apparent after watching it for a little.. Then I move to the next farthest etc until all four are bled.
If I replace a long brake line I might open the bleeder and give the pedal a slow short push just to get the fluid started.
If your car sits over night...might be a good time to open the bleeders the next day...the air bubbles tend to move toward the high point of caliper or wheel cylinder.
If you do bleed with someone working the brake pedal try not to pump the heck out of the brake pedal...just smooth slow motions..you don't want to create more bubbles in the brake lines mashing the pedal up and down.
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I always wind up bleeding brakes by myself so I use the gravity method. I start by opening the farthest bleeder, open it up a turn, remove the reservoir cap and make sure the fluid is top'd up. Then I wait until the fluid flows out of the bleeder in a smooth flow (coffee break time). If it's jerky, bubbling and not flowing smoothly I wait...the smooth flow becomes apparent after watching it for a little.. Then I move to the next farthest etc until all four are bled.
If I replace a long brake line I might open the bleeder and give the pedal a slow short push just to get the fluid started.
If your car sits over night...might be a good time to open the bleeders the next day...the air bubbles tend to move toward the high point of caliper or wheel cylinder.
If you do bleed with someone working the brake pedal try not to pump the heck out of the brake pedal...just smooth slow motions..you don't want to create more bubbles in the brake lines mashing the pedal up and down.
Seriously, that will work?
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I haven't had anyone help me bleed brakes in years....and I don't use a vacuum bleeder.
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Munch, I would suspect the booster. I think if you have a vacuum pump you can hook it up to the booster and check it.
I have used gravity bleeding several times. It's great one-man operation, but it takes a lonnnng time.
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The only thing that has me leaning to a good bleed is that the brakes worked before the system was taken apart and new brake line installed.
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Yes it worked before installing the replacement line and remote reservoir. I guess I introduced a lot of a when I filled the reservoir probably trapping a large air pocket.
Anyone ever tried reverse bleeding?
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About a month ago I replaced about 8 feet of rear brake line on my S10 truck. Did it out in the cold so the brake fluid might have flowed more slowly...but there was a lot of air in the line. It was a rear brake line that ran along the frame from axle to the junction near the front wheel. I started with the pass side rear cylinder.....I had to open the rear bleeder and give the brake pedal a couple of "slow" pushes by hand to start the flow. Yes it did take some time to gravity bleed...but I had no choice.
If you (2) man bleed just don't pump the pedal like you are in a bicycle race...up and down smoothly...then push down slowly and hold when bleeder is opened.
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The only thing that has me leaning to a good bleed is that the brakes worked before the system was taken apart and new brake line installed.
Ed, you're right, I didn't even think of that. I'm sorry, should have given it more thought. Stock up on some brake fluid and have at it!
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The only thing that has me leaning to a good bleed is that the brakes worked before the system was taken apart and new brake line installed.
Ed, you're right, I didn't even think of that. I'm sorry, should have given it more thought. Stock up on some brake fluid and have at it!
No problem Brother...we are all just trying to help him stop ;) besides..the verdict isn't in yet.
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Munch, I would suspect the booster. I think if you have a vacuum pump you can hook it up to the booster and check it.
I have used gravity bleeding several times. It's great one-man operation, but it takes a lonnnng time.
I agree with this.
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I reverse bleed the system and got lots of air out, still no pedal. Finally replaced MC and booster and revered bled again. Lots of air out until nothing but fluid. Checked each wheel one more time. No Pedal!!! I'm stumped...
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For bad calipers I put my hand on them (or watch them) as someone works the pedal. If you have a stuck puck or slider the caliper will tilt (slightly) to one side or the other....to indicate something is stuck. (Tilted puck, stuck or rusty brake pad slider etc.)
A good caliper will just compress around the rotor evenly. If it is stuck...you won't get a firm pedal no matter how much you bleed.
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You might need someone to pump the pedal to ensure the caliper or cylinder is pushing the pads against the rotor/drum. A little while ago I replaced the r/f caliper on my son's Toyota. I had a heck of a time getting all the air out, and getting the caliper to engage the rotor. For a while there I thought the new caliper was frozen.........Just a thought.
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I had someone pump the brake for me while I looked and there is no movement at all up front. I removed the rear drum to watch while brakes were pumped and no movement at all.
Just doesn't make sense to me as all the air seemed to be pushed out. The only thing different besides being ide for seven months is the addition of the remote reservoir.
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If your installed new master cylinder and booster...Is the rod from master cylinder into booster adjusted correctly??
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If your installed new master cylinder and booster...Is the rod from master cylinder into booster adjusted correctly??
If this is not adjusted properly you will not get any movement, try loosening the nuts on the master cylinder and booster connection, as you loosen them if the m/c pushes away from the booster the rod is two long and needs adjusted ( it's left handed threads) If this is the case the cylinder piston is past the ports and no fluid can flow but you will still have pedal movement. I've seen guys put washers between the m/c and booster, I don't recommend this.
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Also is the rod from the pedal to booster in adjustment????? I would check this first
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Another thought, if you have proportional valve did you trip it, if so you will need to reset it.
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Yes I adjusted the rod according to the video provided by Speedway. Don't know about the proportioning valve as I didn't mess with it. It has a knob adjustment and I don't know how to set it.
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Was that a video on the rod from booster to master cylinder adjustment?? Did You check for from pedal to booster???
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It was the rod from the booster to the MC. The pedal to the booster I adjusted same as the old one. I left it retracted and adjusted the clevis to the pedal in the up position.
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I haven't had anyone help me bleed brakes in years....and I don't use a vacuum bleeder.
ED,
Do you gravity bleed one at a time or all four?
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I haven't had anyone help me bleed brakes in years....and I don't use a vacuum bleeder.
ED,
Do you gravity bleed one at a time or all four?
Sorry, I reread your post. Thanks
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Wish I right there to help...did you bench bleed the MC just to be sure that it's even working.
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Wish I right there to help...did you bench bleed the MC just to be sure that it's even working.
Yes, but I just forced all the air out as shown, I didn't try to operate it.
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Wish I right there to help...did you bench bleed the MC just to be sure that it's even working.
Yes, but I just forced all the air out as shown, I didn't try to operate it.
FYI: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vOTkVAeU_n4
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Wish I right there to help...did you bench bleed the MC just to be sure that it's even working.
Yes, but I just forced all the air out as shown, I didn't try to operate it.
FYI: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vOTkVAeU_n4
Yea, I just forced air through the ports. I've been gravity bleeding all day and no luck. I guess I will take it back down, bench bleed the MC correctly and start over. Tomorrow though, I just don't have it in me right now.
Thanks Ed...
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Persistence, I finally got a pedal and now I'm off to cruising...
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Ok...now tell us what your problem was and how you corrected issue
to get the pedal😁😁😁
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OK the pedal on the left is for the clutch ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D
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Yea, Munch, that's great news! But, what was it?
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Hoping you weren't going to ask, I have my senior moments at times. The front disc are 4 pistons and I wasn't bleeding from the top. Got a lot of air out when I did. Live and Learn...
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Oh well, we've all done it.....live and learn ;D
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Glad you figured it out Munch! Now put some miles on it!