Rusty Bowtie
General Category => General Discussion - Intros => Topic started by: munch on March 03, 2019, 02:36:54 PM
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I have been doing the interior of my 30 myself, and now have the headliner to go. If you look at the picture you will see the upper rear corners of the ceiling where it has compound curves. I don't know how to mold something to match those curves, like a backer board and I don't know any other method. Can anyone help me?
Thanks all...
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Most upholstery shops sell a black plastic board that can be heated with a heat gun and with a little work can be molded to the shape you need for the whole top piece.
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I believe you do the headliner first and then install the walls.
You can do it in just material and glue/staple to the underside of the top rails.
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I believe you do the headliner first and then install the walls.
You can do it in just material and glue/staple to the underside of the top rails.
I agree with Rattiac the headliner should be done first, and let the sides cover your attachment points and help hold the headliner in place. Hopefully you can remove the sides without to much trouble.
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The cardboard headliner kit sold for the AD pickups comes rolled in a box. They must be dampened flatten them They must be dampened again to mold them to the compound curves above the windshield. The board is very similar to to mat and poster board. Maybe you could form what you need in this way.
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On my coupe I did the headliner first. I used a Masonite type material covered with thin foam rubber and then covered that with vinyl. The center of the headliner is held up with screws that are covered by the courtesy/dome light. The perimeter/edges are held up by the interior panels. Let me see if I can find some pictures..........
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I'm not sure if these pictures will help you or not, Munch. What I did was form the interior panels by cutting them to size, wetting them until they were pliable and then bending them into shape and letting them dry. Initially I screwed them in place to hold them, however, for the final install I used plastic door panel clips. Anyway, My headliner, of which I apparently took no pictures, is relatively flat. The perimeter/edges sit on top of the other interior panels and the center is held by screws under the dome light. There are no compound curves in my headliner. I have no problem with clearance. I am 6'1" and my coupe is chopped 3".
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Here's a couple more. I'll try to remember to take some more, but I hope you get the idea.
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Chopper,
I did much like you and have everything up to where the ceiling starts to curve and the curve in the back is what is giving me the problem. I have no problem taking the walls down to work on the headliner, but still don't know how to tackle those curves.
Mine is a Coach, so that is a lota ceiling... :-\
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Munch Are wanting to install your head liner in one piece? If you do it in several section it might be easier to shape the outside pieces as Chopper described and have a large center section, Just a thought.
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Hey guys...haven't been around lately...but here is one method to make an inside curved roof liner...of course you can make a partial corner piece.
http://hotrodsandhemis.com/deuceheadliner.html
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I want to find how a he prepped and laid the fiberglass on the roof....interesting article.....found it this is gonna be a pain in the arse.....http://www.hotrodsandhemis.com/deucegrillandheadliner.html..
Thanks ED for the posting
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I want to find how a he prepped and laid the fiberglass on the roof....interesting article.....found it this is gonna be a pain in the arse.....http://www.hotrodsandhemis.com/deucegrillandheadliner.html..
Thanks ED for the posting
Years ago I bought the book: Fiberglass - Auto Body Construction Simplified by John Willis and experimented making plaster molds then duplicating small fiberglass body parts like sections of trailer fiberglass fenders. Years ago they used carnauba wax as a release agent...guess they now have specific parting agents.
I plan on waxing the heck out of my 33 roof and laying down thick cloth fiberglass, when it cures some I'll shape and laminate in metal reinforcements (1/4" round rod). After cure I'll split it down the middle, narrow it and glass it back together again with reinforcement (maybe metal screen?).
Most likely will just use 3M adhesive to apply and stretch some fabric on the finished side and use Velcro to hold up the center of the panel. The side panels will support the perimeter of the full panel.
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I've done a few fiberglass molds like Ed said above. Carnuba wax does work.... if you have several coats and ALL gets a good coat! On a sedan, you will go thru a lot of resin, so shop around for a good price!
Fellas, if any of you try this....it makes a mess. As in the resin drips off brush, roller or after you coat. Make sure you tape off EVERY THING you don't want dripped on. I use heavy clear plastic wrap( like vapor barrier stuff. Mask off all from cast line down, that includes door jams etc. just like your painting. It would scare me on a freshly painted car.
I cheated when I did my buddies '32 Ford p.u. When I cut the top of to chop it, I turned it upside down on the table. Took some 1/4" hail screen and screwed it to the underside and streched it down to get the shape. Put heavy clear plastic on then and laid 2 coats of Evercoat Seaglass 4oz fiberglass mat. Cleared edge screws before it set up so I could remove screws then covered with heavy plastic and stuck the shop vac in the pillar post to uniformly suck it down a bit. As soon as the glass started setting well , I pulled top layer of plastc off and let it dry.
Unscrewed it, removed, quick sand with 80grt on the D.A. then did like Ed said, 3m spray adhisive and stretch fabric. Came out very well.