Rusty Bowtie
Miscellaneous => Members Builds - Stocker -Streetrod - Ratrod - LowRider => Topic started by: ghost28 on February 19, 2013, 04:09:46 PM
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I figured I would start an official build thread for the roadster and get out of the genreal conversation area. So here goes. I bought this car as a basket case here in Colorado, and so far I have just tacked the car together to get a feel for it and decide on the build direction. I have decided to build it fenderless, but with the option of adding the fenders if I so desire. it will have a 62 buick 401 engine and a gm 4 speed combo. The car was too long with the 120 inch wheel base and most of the length was in the seating area of 48 inches, so the rear of the body along with the frame will have to be cut 6 inches to get the proportions right. so far the body has been cut and the door jambs have been reinstalled. then I have installed some lower drivers side replacement panels. I have ordered the adaptor kit for the 4 speed conversion. Now we are all updated for the build thread. I hope you guys will follow along
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More pic's. The black one is what I am shooting for. The wife says red with black interior would make her happy. We will see....John
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You have to admit the black and red combo looks good...... and remember when the wife is happy everyone is happy 8)
Moose
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Looks good. I look forward to watching this build.
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Glad to see this build thread. Looking forward to following the progress. Good luck with the build!
Tom
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Thanks guys for the comments. I went out yesterday afternoon and bought the steel for the interior structure, and sub floor. The main rails of the sub floor will be 1 inch by 2 inch 16 guage tubing. The rest of the sub flooring will be 3/4 inch and 1/2 inch 16 guage square tubing. I will take lots of pictures of the whole ordeal as I start bending and welding. Wish me luck....John
ps. Tom.... I am going to follow your picture leads on structuring some of this little roadster.
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This might be "just me"...but I noticed that if I had to bend any round or square tubing...positioning the "seam" on the inside of the arc made the bend easier. The seam is the dark line on the tubing...that would be the thickest wall area...just seems to make sense keeping it inside the curve means it won't have to be stretched as compared to being on the outside circumference?
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Good luck, John, make sure you givr us plenty of pictures. Jim
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John, sounds like you have a pretty good plan in place. Any pictures or measurements you need let me know. I'll be more than happy to help out if I can.
Tom
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This might be "just me"...but I noticed that if I had to bend any round or square tubing...positioning the "seam" on the inside of the arc made the bend easier. The seam is the dark line on the tubing...that would be the thickest wall area...just seems to make sense keeping it inside the curve means it won't have to be stretched as compared to being on the outside circumference?
I agree with your thinking in regards to the tubing bring stronger or thicker guage on the seam, even if it's very minor, it still would make the bending a little easier. I am gonna try it on some of my many bends to come.. Thanks John
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I don't get too much noisy work done during the week because the wife baby sits my grandaughters, but I did get some of the lower structure tubing bent up today. After the babys left this afternoon I cut out the old rusted lower panels on the passenger side and installed the new ones, and then installed the lower structure tubing on the back of the car and both quarters. the body is starting to feel less like a wet noodle now. The garage is a little crowded with the little tractor in there, but at least I don't have to shovel snow.
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WOW!!!!!
serious , inspiration.... BUSY,BUSY
Ray
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Looking good! Great progress......the weekend is here so now you can really "Rock and Roll" :-*
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WOW!!!!!
serious , inspiration.... BUSY,BUSY
Ray
Serious inspiration indeed! Great progress without waking the granddaughters!
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Well in the last few day I have fixed all the rust issues in the back half of the buick with new metal. There is a few cracked areas in the body that will need some attention. I started to check out the original hinges and the design is pretty cool, but they are a little flimsy for todays roads, and speeds. They are a single 1/4 inch pin design that with a flip of a flimsy piece of riveted metal you can dismount the doors and pull them off for a jeep like adventure. I am thinking since they were a hidden hinge design before. I might use a newer hidden design for safety and a little more strenth. I am also contemplating using a new small bear claw latch instead of the original, again for safety. I don't want the doors to pop open at hiway speeds. I have an real bad feeling when I ride the pavement. HEHE.... A few pic's of the original hinges.
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Good call on the hinges and latches. I went with bear claw latches on mine. Like you said got to keep those doors closed while driving.
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John , Thanks for stopping buy,with Sonny in tow....yesterday. it helps me to know..... I'm at least going in the right direction.
Busy,Busy
Ray
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John , Thanks for stopping buy,with Sonny in tow....yesterday. it helps me to know..... I'm at least going in the right direction.
Busy,Busy
Ray
Not a problem Ray. It was good to see your 31 coupe on the chassis, and it brought back memories of some of my builds.
I have been working on the buick roadster. Mostly still installing patch panels and lower steel structuring, I installed the lower cowl patch panels and bent some 3/4 inch square tubing to follow the shape of the lower cowl and door curve, this square tubing will be connected to the rear body tubing. I installed the new lower sill plates below the doors on the outside of the square tubing. I then made some 16 and 14 guage flat steel pieces to out line and structure the interior door shape for the wood replacement this will be the starting point of the door structure, and the hinges and latches will be worked off of these. It's coming together slowly, but that's the way I like it. I did get my bell housing, clutch, pressure plate, steel flywheel, and all the needed parts to install the newly rebuilt 68 camaro saginaw 4 speed and hurst shifter which I bought today..... John
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The clutch pedal assembly and 4 speed. This build is fun
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Looks like your making some good headway. I like your brake assembly....You can really tune in the brake bias with that setup.
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John, Nice work on the doors and body so far. The roadster is coming along great. That little thing is going to get up and go with the Nailhead and 4 speed!
Tom
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Found this ad locally, called the guy, it's a roller project, only has the rear body section, no cowl or doors. Home made chassis, Olds rear, 30's Chevy front axle, small block, THM400.
FOR SALE: 1926 Buick Roadster project
car, $2500. 1992 Chevy SB350FI,
$1000. Custom Rolling chassis, $1500.
481-7983 call/text.
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John , Thanks for stopping buy,with Sonny in tow....yesterday. it helps me to know..... I'm at least going in the right direction.
Busy,Busy
Ray
Pay back brother. Ray stopped by the other day and helped me line up the roadster body. I then proceeded to start building the sub flooring. The main rails on top of the frame are 1 inch by 2 inch 16 guage tubing and the stringers are mostly 3/4 inch 16 guage square tubing. Should be plenty strong when it's all said and done. I will probably over kill around the doors so the door gaps wont change after I cut the door open....John
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John,
That inner structure is looking great! Should be real solid on that chassis.Keep at it.
Tom
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John,
That inner structure is looking great! Should be real solid on that chassis.Keep at it.
Tom
Thanks Tom.
I spent a little more time this weekend bending , cutting, and welding steel. I finished up the trunk area of the sub flooring then moved on to the package tray area bending up some 3/4 inch square tubing to follow the shape of the back rest part of the car. WHEW. That was tough but it needed to be done and it will make it strong, and I can add more support pieces off this. I have moved on to the trunk area and reinstalling the interior lip for the water drain, and trunk lid.
Getting there....John
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Well I added some cross bracing to the interior, and set the trunk lid for a trial fit, but had to use a porta power on the body below the trunk to push the body back up. Now the trunk fits the hole great. On to hinges for both the doors and trunk area. Does anyone have a small set of hidden hinges for doors they might have bought for a project but didn't use? Thought I'd check before I bought some....Thanks John
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Looks like a great fit John..... Way better than the factory.
Moose
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Sorry John no extra hinges but the trunk looks great.
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Nothing to exciting around here. I have been enlisted to help the wife babysit my three youngest grandaughters during the week. God I love those kids, but on very few times I wish I was back at work hauling heavy furniture around cuz it might be easier. Just kidding. I did get a little done on the roadster project over the weekend mostly fabricating the trunk hinges back on the body with steel, and I started to install the original door hinges back on the body for a trial fit to the doors. I modified them to install more like a modern hidden hinge design for adjustment without doing away with the original quick door removal design just yet. I hope I can get them to work cuz new ones are so expensive and these have lasted for so long they should be good for a little while longer.
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It is tough to get work done when my granddaughter is around so I know what you mean. Fab work is looking good. I'm sure you'll figure out a way to get those hinges to work.
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Ah crap! I need those hinges for my 29' Chevy! :( If you haven't modified them too much, I would be interested in them, maybe help you offset the cost of new ones?
Nice work so far... I only wish my roadster was as nice of a project to start off with... Keep the pics coming John :)
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Ah crap! I need those hinges for my 29' Chevy! :( If you haven't modified them too much, I would be interested in them, maybe help you offset the cost of new ones?
Nice work so far... I only wish my roadster was as nice of a project to start off with... Keep the pics coming John :)
NAW. I didn't hurt them at all. I just welded an extension on the door portion for now to make them adjustable. I will probably use them now since I have allready mounted half of them in the passenger side body. DANG The aftermarket ones in some of the magazines are around $200.00 or more. Were yout hinges on the roadster hidden like the buick? I hope to see more of your project coming together...John
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Yeah, they are identical to the 29-31 Chevy hinges. I am trying to keep as many of the OE parts on the car like hinges, latches, trim, etc.
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I stood the buick on it's nose to make some room in my shop. I might as well weld up the bottom of the sub floor while it's up there. it looks kind like stone henge or some kind of crazy art project...John
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That sure beats welding on your back and in my case...smelling my beard burning!
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Good shot of your frame work. Looks great John.
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Neat takes less room. And any welding can be done easy. Really coming together good!
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Now that's what I call a great idea. Looking good
Moose
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Great Job on the Roof , John ..... sorry I missed it.
But, Geri had the Surgery ,and we are back home again......going to take awhile to get better....like you...but, things can only get better now.Hopefully we can work together in the future..maybe some of your experience and know how will rub off....LOL
thanks
Ray
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Thanks guys. Ray I am glad Geri is back home and on the mend I saw you called. I have been getting a little more done on the buick guys. The bottom of the sub flooring is all welded, I shortened the frame 6 inches , and cut the back half of the frame off where the gas tank would normally go. I didn't like it sticking out from the body. Pictures to follow...John
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Not to much to report, but here are a few pictures of the frame where I cut off and that chunk of steel where the gas tank used to be mounted. I added a bump bar or thick gas pipe that will be welded to the frame and hidden just inside the body on the rear of the car. It's coming together, but now I'm bringing a 33 plymouth 4 door sedan in for some hotrodding, so the buick will be on the back burner for awhile...John
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Frame looks pretty solid John. Got to have a good foundation to work with. Hope it's not too long before you get back to it.
Tom
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Looking good John.....Let us know when the Buick comes back to the front burner and keep us up to date.
Moose
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Thanks I will keep you guys posted on the progress. I hope to work on the buick and the plymouth at the same time. I did set the body back on the frame so I could roll it around and I put the hood on it just for grins.
Have a look...John
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I like it! Gonna be a cool ride. :)
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I found some time to work on the roadster the other day, and got the drivers door hinged and operational it will still need some fine tuning, but at least it opens and closes pretty square. I guess the passenger door will be a piece of cake now.
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That door framing looks good and strong.....Nothing worse than doors that twist around and sound like your hitting the side of a band aid can when they close .
Moose
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That door framing looks good and strong.....Nothing worse than doors that twist around and sound like your hitting the side of a band aid can when they close .
Moose
Oh I agree. There willl be a lot more to them when finished completely.
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OOOH FENDERS OR NOT? I can't decide they do look cool.
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I like the fender look...but I'm a fender guy anyway (rears at least). Heard that even hotrods require fenders driving in Canada..wonder if any of the states require fenders?
Ed
I like your wheels also...
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I'm with Ed on the fender thing....but on the other hand..........Hard to say.
Maybe it's time for a little work with Photoshop.
Moose
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Wow!!! I like it with the fenders. I'm more of a fenders guys too. Looks great John, you have a tough decision to make.
Tom
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It's been awful quiet since it appeared with fenders.
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Yeah..same here :)
Was thinking :o The reason I like fenders is that it makes the car look like it's sticking to the road...No fenders looks like it could take off any time! (and No..I'm not drinking)
Ed
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fenders , definitely...........
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Thanks guys. I had a lot of family here a couple of weeks ago so I decided to work in the shop the last two weekends to make up some time with the cars of customers. I blew the 31 plymouth apart completely and pressure washed all the rodent debri from all the crevices. then I finished up the seal coat primer on the 28 chevy delivery and spent last sunday and all this weekend doing the assembly of same. I have only the windshield and back door glass to order and install to be done with my part of it. I will try to get a few pictures of it soon. (The poor buick is suffering) Hey Ray I saw you called today but I left my damn phone on the charger all day. did not check it until just an hour ago. I will give you a call. Hey Tom how soon until you are in Colorado?
John
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Hey John I'll be in Colorado July 26 & 27. I'll email you my itinerary and hopefully we can get together.
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Hey John I'll be in Colorado July 26 & 27. I'll email you my itinerary and hopefully we can get together.
I will email ya back. but friday night at the local Sonic might be cool if you like.
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Sounds good to me :)
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Well both doors are hinged finally and I also finished up the hinge for the trunk. I am telling you that standing on my head in tight spaces with a welder in my hand is not my idea of fun and if I had more help I would have stood the body up on end, but it's done and working for now.
Have a look..... John
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Wow looks great John! Nice to see some progress. It was dusty when I was there in July.
Tom
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Oh yeah I had to hit it with the air hose just to find the car. hehe.
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One of the hardest jobs is to get the doors to fit right....Nice work!!
Moose
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One of the hardest jobs is to get the doors to fit right....Nice work!!
Moose
Thanks. The doors and trunk fit great now, but I am gonna make some adjustable hardware for future adjustment if needed.
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It's been awhile since I did anything on the roadster., but I am gathering parts to further the build. I have all the sheet steel for the flooring, the rear axle, and now I have aquired a front suspension off of craigs list. It came from a 40 ford truck hot rod, but it's actually for a coupe or sedan of the same year because of the drop in the axle. It should work fine under my little hotrod with a few modifications of course.
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The things you can find on Craigslist :) Nice find! Glad it's still moving forward. You are going to change the color right?
Tom
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Sometimes I go back and reread my thread to see how far I have come with a project, and to light a fire under my butt, and that is just what I did. I forgot what the car looked like when I got it and where it is now. THIS HELPED. I have started on the front crossmember for mounting the 40 ford spring. I cut some steel with my plasma three pieces and then welded them together. they are ground down and the crossmember is tacked in place to hold the wheel base I want. Maybe this weekend I can get the boxing plates cut and installed on the front of the frame. This will secure the crossmember in place and also make the front frame section a little more rigid. Then the bones will have to be split and bent so I can use them for adjustment of the axle front to back on each side. A little progress is at least something....John
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John,
Glad to see some progress. It's going to be a cool ride.
Tom
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John,
Glad to see some progress. It's going to be a cool ride.
Tom
Thanks Tom it's starting to be fun again. I got the boxing plates cut for most of the front frame, I don't believe I need to box the whole frame because this frame is thick and heavy unlike the chevies or fords of the same year. I did get them installed and cleaned up for the most part it looks a lot better at the front with the new crossmember. Have a look.
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Well I split the bones and cut them so I could tweak them further out and under the frame. Some guys don't like doing it this way but I have never had a problem doing it. What I dont like is heating the spring perch area and bending it as much as I would of had to to achieve where I wanted the bones to end up.
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Thanks Ed. I went and shrunk all my pictures of the buick. They look a lot better when you don't have to scroll them side to side.
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Thank you for doing that ghost...I set mine at 900 which still fits nicely on the page.
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I am getting a little work done on the flooring for the roadster. I cut all the sheet steel and burned some holes in it to puddle weld it to the lower floor structure, the hardest piece was the curved one in the trunk area since I dont have a brake, but it's done and tacked in place with all the rest. Once this is finished, I am gonna start on the rear fenders mounting them so I can see where I want to bob the rear of them. Have a look.
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Nice work John! Floor looks great!
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Great looking project! That is a lot of work!
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I played with the buick over the weekend a little. The rear fenders that are not for this car beat me up a little but I got them to fit for the most part. Then I decided that since the car was in the right position I would mock up the engine and start on the front mounts which will be a rubber biscuit style for the 401 nailhead.
John
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In my shop it would have had a straight 8, but it would never get done. A Nail Head ? Far Out! That is a great build. It looks really nice.
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In my shop it would have had a straight 8, but it would never get done. A Nail Head ? Far Out! That is a great build. It looks really nice.
My son n law has a straight eight out of a 51 buick in storage so it was thought of in the build, and it would have fit the space.
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John the fenders look like they belong there, nice work. You should be able to fit some good size tires in there. It'll be really cool with that nail head. Great to see the progress.
Tom
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When I built the support for the area behind the seat where the top will lay down, it was just for support so the cosmetic side of it wasn't real pretty I spent sunday last bending some brake line to wrap the outside of the area and then cut some 16 guage into the proper sizes to cap the whole area. Doing this I was able to properly transition where the door closes to the back part of the body. I then added on metal to the top door jams on the hinge sides and the door closure area, this will give me a clean gap at the top of the doors when all is said and done.
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John, That was a great idea, should finish that part of the car real well. Nice work!
Tom
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I like the nailhead! What trans. are you using?
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I like the nailhead! What trans. are you using?
I have a nice saginaw 4 speed and hurst shifter, but now I have my eyes on a muncie if I can swing it...
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Buick V8 in a 26 buick, how absolutely perfect !!!!!!!!!!!!
googled a search for 26 buicks to see what they look like, wow great body design. Does yours have the golf club door in the quarter panel ???
From my days as THE GASKET KING 1975--90 I rember that there was 2 buicks made.. One was the MASTER SERIES and the other was the STANDARD SERIES . They had diff sized wheel bases and different straight six motors. Which one do you have ?
looking at your manifolds, I would say probably easiest to make a TRI-Y style header, dougs headers makes that style for SBC, as an example.
My friend frank has a 26 dodge and the hardest thing was trying to find a 30--32 " tall tire to fill the rear fender opening. Looks like you will not have that problem with the front, gonna be IN DA WEEDS .
mike
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Buick V8 in a 26 buick, how absolutely perfect !!!!!!!!!!!!
googled a search for 26 buicks to see what they look like, wow great body design. Does yours have the golf club door in the quarter panel ???
From my days as THE GASKET KING 1975--90 I rember that there was 2 buicks made.. One was the MASTER SERIES and the other was the STANDARD SERIES . They had diff sized wheel bases and different straight six motors. Which one do you have ?
No it didn't have the golf door and it was the 120 inch wheel base model so I cut 6 inches out of the body and the frame making it 104 inches, but it's still a big car. On mine the top was stationary cloth non folding. I did chop off the rear gast tank area of the frame where the spare tire would have been mounted to clean up the back a little bit. Thanks for your comments....John
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little by little. I ordered the slim line bear claws and pin setups from speedway. I had the mounting plates in my inventory. They were relatively easy to install and get everything lined up. The first door took about an hour and the second about 20 minutes, and of course the second door works the best?
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The last set of slim lines I used on my 34 5-w, the mounting holes didn't line up. They were 1/8" to narrow. I had to use the die grinder to widen, the back weld(on the mounting plate). Don't know what that was all about, ordered the complete kit, should have been matched.
I've been tapping the latch holes so it would clear the door glass, no room for nuts. Luckily our hardware store carries a short counter sink bolt in philips or flat
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I looked at the mounting plates speedway were offering and didn't care for them. To me they looked like a one size fits all hopefully. The ones I had lined up perfectly.
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That's where I got them. The bear claws & kit I got previously, my buddy bought off the internet somewhere and they matched perfect.
I was wrong on what machine screws I used on the 34, I used the pan head flat like you. The counter sunk I used on the hinges. I did a "36 ford that I made the plate with the counter sink for clearance in the jamb. I threaded the mounting holes in the bearclaws and kissed a counter sink with a larger drill bit till the screw would set.
Damn meds get my reckoning off sometimes, sorry.
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i finally figured out my split bones mounting tabs,. placement on the frame, how large they should be and so on. What I did figure out is the crossmember I built was mounted crooked (one of those moments) and wouldn't let me do a correct tape measure alighnment on the axle, so I had to cut a slit on drivers side front and passenger side rear so I could rotate the axle and spring about a quarter inch. It worked fine, but now I have to weld up the seams again. oh well it's what I do AGAIN AND AGAIN.
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We all have those ooops moments. I believe that they're designed to test and hone your fabrication skills ;D
Moose
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You're half way to having a roller! I like your progress, looks great.
Tom
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You're half way to having a roller! I like your progress, looks great.
Tom
Trying to make it a full roller Tom. I ordered the triangulated 4 link yesterday, and today I found a 1957 ford nine inch rear axle, and it's the perfet width of 58 inches wheel mount for the roadster. Now I just got to save up for the afco coilover shocks, and a 4 speed The 401 nailhead fired right up and ran great. WHEW I was worried about that. It's getting there.
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Great news, I guess flipping the Anglia was worth it.
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Well I bit the bullet and decided to spend the money on the transmission. I could not find a good deal on a muncie 4 speed so last night I bought a third generation camaro 5 speed setup it has everything from the clutch and brake pedals, bell housing, flywheel, back. I guess this way I can run my 355 gear set and still cruise on the hiway. I am not sure of the shifter height, but I will fix that.
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I have 3.55 in my pickup and an S10 5 speed. It runs 90mph at 3000 rpm. Anything below that is comfortable cruising. 8)
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That should work out really well. Lucky dogs, i'm stuck with a 3:08 for a while. Hoping I will be light enough to over come it.
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I have 3.55 in my pickup and an S10 5 speed. It runs 90mph at 3000 rpm. Anything below that is comfortable cruising. 8)
That sound like what I am shooting for. I have had these 355 gears for awhile and alway wanted to use them. I'm excited about the 5 speed it shifts so good. Oh Sammons those 3.08 gears should be just fine.
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I think the OD in your tranny is taller than mine. You should be able to cruse 70 at a bit over 2K. My tires are 29" or so. My roadster will start out with a 3 speed BW T86 with OD from my son's '54 Studebaker Wagon. I'm also using the Dana 44 posi carrier from it with 4.27 gears. We ran that in his wagon on several round trips from here to Texas in his college years. It was a decent combo and easily pulled a U-Haul at near twice it's rated speed. The Stude has a supercharged 289 V8. I think my 153 Chevy 4 banger will like those gears and still cruse a 70 or so. If not there is a set of 3.78s around here somewhere.
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Back on it. At least the engine is a lot cleaner, and I don't feel bad about mounting my bellhousing to it.
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I just finished up another wiring job for a friend and decided to take the roadster body off the chassis so the frame would be exposed. I set the rear axle housing in place and tacked a couple of pieces of tubing to hold it solid. I then mounted the triangulated suspension and tacked it all in place. I then made the upper shock cross brace and installed the QA1 shocks. It's getting there.
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your beavering away and making some serious progress............throw in a watts linkage to keep rear end centered and away you go.
That is one serious heavy duty cross member in center of frame. Must be stock?
mike ;D
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Thanks Mike. I have needed to get back on it for a long time I have never needed a watts link for a triangulated 4 link, but I will check lateral movement on this one. And yes everything on this frame is overkill. I installed the 4 link on friday and then saturday I decided to mount the vega box and do a little more boxing on the frame before I set the engine and transmission in place so I can build the trans mount.
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Nice work John, it'll be cool to see it on 4 wheels with the engine and trans in it! Keep it up buddy!
Tom
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Look'n good ghost, glad to see ya back at it. I like over kill too, all that "what happens if" goes through my head at night. Better to do it now and not worry.
Now, if we can keep everybody out of the hospital. Hope you're feeling much better.
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Looking good, it looks like your focused and moving along.
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Looks good, John. No such thing as overkill, let's see that engine in there.
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Ghost Are you boxing your frame completely front to back?
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Ghost Are you boxing your frame completely front to back?
Boxing it a little more than half way, but I am gonna box around the upper 4 link perches to beef them up a little.
I did get a little more completed on the roadster. The engine and trans are in place and I constructed a transmission mount out of chrome molly tubing, a couple of bends and it worked fine. I welded brackets on the end and drilled through the bracket and frame for bolt mounting. I will have to construct a small trans tunnel about 8 inches by 8 inches and 1 1/2 inches tall. I took the housing out so I could finish welding the 4 link brackets. Man I am having fun now.
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Nice work Ghost! Just went thought your whole build. That will be one cool ride.
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Started the frame assembly. It turns out the parts for the 57 ford 9 inch rear axle parts are pretty hard to find, but I have most of the brake assembly and I believe I can get the rest. I got a set of chrome 8 inch rally wheels with a nice set of 275 60 15 Hoosier tires on them. So I can at least roll the chassis around. I might even use them on the car.
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That's looking real sweet, Moose. You even have the frame painted already.
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While I am waiting for the funds to finish the third member, so I can install the axles and make it a true roller. I started to do a little more structuring on the a and b pillars, along with the doors and bulkhead divider. I used 1 inch by 10 guage strapping. This will add a lot strength and get rid of the flex the doors had, and it will also give me a place to mount upholstery panels in the future. I built the transmission tunnel and cut out for the floor shift today and with a little grinding they will be good. The dash board on this car was flat thin steel and full of holes, so I built a new dash and cut the holes for the guages. It turned out looking like mickey and minnie, but with the ignition, and headlight switches in the center, and turn signal indicators over the collumn it should be ok.
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Looks great John. Are you going to mount the gauges directly to the steel on the dash or are you going to have some wood or another material between the steel and gauges?
Tom
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Thanks Tom. I will probably do a little more detailing to the dash and then it will be painted shiney body color. I am not much of a wood worker.
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Ghost will there be any diagonal bracing put in your doors? It's looking good.
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After installing the surround bracing I checked for twist in the doors and they were tight, so Idon't think I will need any other bracing.
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your right dash board panel does look like mickey and Minnie.....fantastic. That cowl top has a great shape to it, what a gorgeous curve.
Re the rear end, it looks really too wide for the frame. Is this car a fendered or non fendered hi boy style. Would have to have really wide rear fenders. All will be revealed when body comes together.
mike 8)
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your right dash board panel does look like mickey and Minnie.....fantastic. That cowl top has a great shape to it, what a gorgeous curve.
Re the rear end, it looks really too wide for the frame. Is this car a fendered or non fendered hi boy style. Would have to have really wide rear fenders. All will be revealed when body comes together.
mike 8)
The axle is right at 58 inches wheel mount to wheel mount and the frame is narrower at the rear than most so it give the illusion of the axle being wide, but with the body on it the fenders wont need to be wide at all. It will all come together in the end so to speak.
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I just noticed in my doors they want to flex at bottom which lets the door panel kick out at the bottom. I read somewhere where there was a threaded rod inside the door that was used for adjusting this, it ran from top of the door to the bottom. I can see where if you put tension on it the bottom of door would pull it in.
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Yep. On most of the wood structured cars there was a threaded rod that was used to adjust the fit of the doors. I have used thick strapping steel tacked in place to my new steel structure after I got the door fitting, and never had an adjustment problem after.
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Lots of great progress. I like the pictures of your doors and body bracing. I'm getting ready to tackle that with my roadster.
One of the fun things about the Disney parks are the "hidden Micky" shapes everywhere. The shape is so ingrained in our culture we automatically see it. Like you said when the other details are added it will not be so obvious. If it really bothers you put one more small gauge low between the big oner. Vacuum? But so what we all love Mickey. ;D
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Ghost28 on my 32 roadster there is a threaded rod that runs under the deck in front of the rumble seat and behind the closet for the convertable top. I have talked with many many 32 roadster owners and they just laughted at me ,They said no way,not on ours i even showed them a picture of where and NO nowone is owing up to it Can it be that i have one of the later built and in some amendment they came out with this idea tonstop the rear quarters from spreading or to keep the rumble seat lid alligned. I have no other ideas.This rod washers and bolts would have to be inserted before the metal quarters would be put on the car. thanks vette59jdwl
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I just noticed in my doors they want to flex at bottom which lets the door panel kick out at the bottom. I read somewhere where there was a threaded rod inside the door that was used for adjusting this, it ran from top of the door to the bottom. I can see where if you put tension on it the bottom of door would pull it in.
Actually my 1935 Chevrolet coupe has that rod running from the front top of door to lower rear of door. I have not played with it since 1980 when car was repainted and I adjusted the door inwards at bottom.. My door has a TURNBUCKLE right in the middle and the threads were left and right hand thread I believe ??? Believe the rod was 3/16" or 1/4".
Going to have to look at the adjusting areas rod tops to see what it looks like, believe a flathead flat screwdriver type ends ???
mike 8)
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Ghost28 on my 32 roadster there is a threaded rod that runs under the deck in front of the rumble seat and behind the closet for the convertable top. I have talked with many many 32 roadster owners and they just laughted at me ,They said no way,not on ours i even showed them a picture of where and NO nowone is owing up to it Can it be that i have one of the later built and in some amendment they came out with this idea tonstop the rear quarters from spreading or to keep the rumble seat lid alligned. I have no other ideas.This rod washers and bolts would have to be inserted before the metal quarters would be put on the car. thanks vette59jdwl
Yes I can see that rod being used to pull the front of the quarter panels where the metal panel just ahead of the rumble seat lid locks down. This panel is nailed to the back of the top holding wood surround. Its also nailed to a wood brace that runs across the panel that's screwed to the wood splines and the rumble seat latch is screwed to it. I think with the threaded rod you have , somebody was trying to correct a perceived problem. Once the holes are drilled in the wood it would be easy to bend/flex the rod to slip thru first one side then the other . That's what I think.
There is a long curved spine of wood that runs from the top holding wood section to the bottom rear of the car along the sides of the rumble seat opening. Quarter panels are nailed to these wood pieces.
You have to find a picture of the wood frame of a 32 Chevrolet roadster to see exactly why and how they did it. Or have a wood kit and examine all the pieces while putting it back together. Like a jig saw puzzle only easier .
here is a picture from my shazzbott build thread. the curved wood parts with top notch , fit along the quarter panels....parts 1 & 2 in picture, the other part in position #4 of the picture with top 1/4" wide notch has the quarter panel and the panel ahead of the rumble lid , the metal fits into this and FLOATSA. the notches in it on the bottom goes from side to side and fits into the curved wood pieces notches and is screwed down from the top.
mike------------------ 8)
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Re the rear end, it looks really too wide for the frame. Is this car a fendered or non fendered hi boy style. Would have to have really wide rear fenders. All will be revealed when body comes together.
mike 8)[/size][/font]
[/quote] The axle is right at 58 inches wheel mount to wheel mount and the frame is narrower at the rear than most so it give the illusion of the axle being wide, but with the body on it the fenders wont need to be wide at all. It will all come together in the end so to speak.
After going back to earlier posts in this thread I saw the body sitting on the stock frame, wow body is wide , stock frame is narrow, was not expecting that look. That's what made the rear end look so wide.
mike 8)
[/quote]
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The car is really coming along Ghost. When funds are low it doesn't take much to do a little fabricating. I don't think the Mickey Minnie thing is a big deal, but like Sixball said, add another gauge. Anyway, looks great!
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Oh yeah the buicks were wide and long in the seating area also, this should make it quite nice for those long rides. I alway thought the chevys were nice because they were so much bigger than the ford models, but this buick interior size is bigger than all of the others so much so that I cut 6 inches out of the frame and body. I wonder what the largest seating area was for the cars of the 20s and 30s?
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Ghost28 on my 32 roadster there is a threaded rod that runs under the deck in front of the rumble seat and behind the closet for the convertable top. I have talked with many many 32 roadster owners and they just laughted at me ,They said no way,not on ours i even showed them a picture of where and NO nowone is owing up to it Can it be that i have one of the later built and in some amendment they came out with this idea tonstop the rear quarters from spreading or to keep the rumble seat lid alligned. I have no other ideas.This rod washers and bolts would have to be inserted before the metal quarters would be put on the car. thanks vette59jdwl
I have no idea but madmikes ideas about this rod sounds on track.
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The car is really coming along Ghost. When funds are low it doesn't take much to do a little fabricating. I don't think the Mickey Minnie thing is a big deal, but like Sixball said, add another gauge. Anyway, looks great!
HMMM. Maybe a clock in between them.
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You know that area to the right and left of the toe board in the engine bay. Well it always lets the moisture, and the hot air from the engine seep in because the only thing blocking it off is the side panels inside the car. I never closed them off before, but I fixed mine on the buick since I had the time. Probably overkill but that's OK.
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Ghost, one of the things I think I learned from you and some of the guys
on the HAMB is there is no such thing as overkill, especially when it comes to safety or structure.
I think a clock is a good idea, you don't see too many rods with clocks.
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I closed that area up on my 32, had to drill some access hole in it to get to my body mounting bolts. I'm planning on making covers for them. I never thought about heat, my concern was it was an area for water and road grime.
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I used ball milled aluminum plates to close off those 2 areas on my 35 coupe. It was my billet everything stage.
You want to fill all the firewall holes and anything where that heat generating motor is producing vast quantities of heat. Its going to want to get where you sit.
Re clocks in dash. my coupe has a stem wind VDO 5" clock in the dash and it also has a 30 hour stem wind rear view mirror. I wind and set it to the correct time, every time I use the car.
mike 8) just an accessory junkie
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Mike where did you find your rearview mirror with a clock?
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As I said before welding ang grinding over and over. I have most of it finished for awhile. So I decided to do a preliminary bend of the 1/2 inch thin wall electrical pipe for the rag top. It bent for the most part OK, but it does kink pretty easy if you are not careful, and the area I chose to work on has more compound curves than Dolly. I will probably do another one like this since I have a copy to work off. The rest of them are gonna be easy. Famous last words.
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That looks real good, Ghost. If the tubing is covered with canvas the kinks won't matter too much will it? If so, would a heavier gauge tubing be too heavy?
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That looks real good, Ghost. If the tubing is covered with canvas the kinks won't matter too much will it? If so, would a heavier gauge tubing be too heavy?
Thanks. You are right the canvas would wrap around each piece kinda like a old style headliner does over the bows. I think if it was any heavier I would have to heat it before each bend, and this guage hold the shape real good once bent, so this will have to work.
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Wow John you're really on a roll! Keep it going looks great.
Tom
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Wow John you're really on a roll! Keep it going looks great.
Tom
Thanks Tom. After looking at the stock height top design against the chopped version in these two pictures. I think I am gonna lower the windshield and top a little bit to make it a little more of a hot rod. What do you guys think?
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I do like the bottom one. I think giving it a little trim would give it that "Hot Rod" look. Just leave yourself some head room!
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Comparing the two pictures you posted lowering the top changes the looks considerably, I like it.
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Well comparing the pictures helped a little, but I decided to bend some tubing for above the door to check if I would like it and with the stock height windshield the side opening was large, so I took the windshield post off and marked 3 inches with some tape. TOO LATE NOW, but it does look a lot better once I tilted the visor up so I could see. I will post some pictures a bit later of what I have done.
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John,
If you need any measurements off of my car for comparison let me know.
Tom
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John,
If you need any measurements off of my car for comparison let me know.
Tom
Thanks wiil do. This boat is so different than everything else, I am guessing and measuring about a million times.
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here are a few pictures of the tubing as it is now for the top and the 3 inch chop I did on the windshield frame. I decided that the top won't fold, but it will be removable with a couple of bolt downs which I probably wont do anyway, I like my shade. I am gonna make some removable side windows out of the original frames.
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3"chop looks good on that windshield frame ghost. I've built a lot of CJ tops out of 1/2" conduit, despite people telling me it wouldn't hold up, it holds up just fine with a bend or two. Looks like you got plenty of work to do this weekend.
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Looks like you got plenty of work to do this weekend.
[/quote] Thanks. I am trying to think of all the things I wont do after I get it on the road. So yeah lots to do. I guess you are gonna spend some time over the holidays in the shop. HUH?
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That thinking part is a pain in the a$$. Every time I think I have figured out all I want, I remember something else I forgot. Yep, I am way behind schedule. Spring will be here before I know it. :)
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It's deceiving because of the rise in the center of the cowl. Looks great though.
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GHOST.........back in the day this car would have been equiped with removable side curtains. They would be same as the top cloth and glass or plexiglass inserted.
There should be 2 holes in the top of the door ledge one at front and one at rear, where it looks like there is already the hole. Into those holes is inserted 2 rods joined across like an H . The rods go into the cloth side curtains which are then inserted into the two holes. To hold the side curtains down snap or twist fasteners are used on the body and on the windshield frame. They would also be attached by a couple to the top assembly along the side.
I am not sure how when inside the car you can access the snap fasteners to get out or open the door. I think you need these in order to be able to wash the car and keep the water out. I have to find out exactly how this all works myself for my roadster.
I also understand that open cars are extremely windy and its a good idea to install wind wings to cut off the wind slipping in thru the side. I bought 32--35 ford open car brackets off ebay and very reasonable. Just a matter of making glass patterns for the wind wings. I have talked to friends with t buckets and 33 ford roadsters and a 35 chevy touring car in Australia that all say they would not drive without them.
Loved the set of pictures on that funky body style on the cowl top. 2 thumbs up !
mike ......................... 8)
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Mike. I do have the original side curtains, but they are not in the best of shape, and don't fit my new design. I will use the pins off of them when I build new ones and make them fit so the doors will open when they are on and seal better than the old design. The original holes are still on the windshield frame for the wing windows If I could ever find them.
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Pretty cool, Ghost. That top looks like it is going to have a bit of a rake to it? That will look sharp. Those old side curtains make you realize how far we have come in auto engineering :D
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those side curtains were meant to last , not like the cheap non sense they sold for my 35 chev roadster. Those look good and strong, definitely keep the rain out and good to use when hosing down the buick before attacking with bucket full of suds and wash cloth.
mike............................... 8)
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The frame work is looking great, it looks like someone has got to go to the garage today
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I just came in from the shop. The frame work on the top is all tacked together so I can study it for awhile. I did cut the windshield frames down 3 inches and set them in place so I could check for fit. 3 inches out of the a pillars, but the frame had to be cut 3 1/2 inches ???? Oh well it fits great now. The upper piece I cut hinges, but the bottom of the windshield is solid. I am gonna have to find some good rubber for seal tight fillers on this car.
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John,
That looks real good!
Tom
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That has a real tough look ghost, I like it ! I never understood where that 1/2" difference comes from, never makes sense to me.
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That looks good, great proportion. I have thought of trying to make mine so it will come apart like some of the fold up sun shades and all fit in a bag. Or at least some of and all fit in the trunk. There seems to be a lot of hardware and telescoping tube fittings. Strength would be the issue. Here is a picture of the wind wings on my '26 Chevy. I don't know what kind of covering they had. If it was solid cloth it would be like blinders on a horse. :o I have some glass ones too.
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-BGKxNJClgVY/TLUU8FXsp9I/AAAAAAAAC4Q/SUHebYe25vg/s400/100_1873.JPG)
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See those little clips that are on your window post,They are for the wind/rain screens that clip into the windshield and wrap around the corner of the windshield and clip onto the roof and top of the doors to keep the rain out They are of a canvass material with a clear plastic in the area that you wish to look out of lol lol wayner
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sixball something like this vette59jdwl
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sixball that old 26 chevy tin looks to be in good shape. I left the top alone for awhile and decided to mock up the rear fenders to try for a better fit. I call it busy work. These fenders are not for this car so a little forcing will have to be done. The passenger side fit rather well but the arch of the drivers side was different from the passenger side by about 3/4 inch to narrow. So I cut the fender in two pieces and with a couple of relief cuts it fits better now, I REALLY LIKE THEM ON THERE NOW. but now I have more welding to do and still have no front fenders. It looks like an old altered race car.
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Going to need some big sneakers to fill those fenders!
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Going to need some big sneakers to fill those fenders!
I agree Tom. I have a set of 275 60 series hoosiers that I hope will be big enough.
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65---70---75 series will all be taller than 60 series.
its one of the biggest problems with pre 28 cars especially the large cars who had stock 32-33 tall tires.
Putting those super tall tires on a 15" rim creates another visual problem, in that the tall side walls make the 15" rim look even smaller. My friend Frank has a 1925 dodge bros 4 door sedan and that the same problem he has, except he never put tires on big enough, car looks wrong.
With places like DAYTON............AND who make wires wheels up to 20 inch, its easier to find those large 18 and 20 inch rim sizes tires that will fit and look right.
http://www.thewheelsmith.net/CustomWheels/WireWheelsAccessories.html
mike 8)
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wow as always the car and your work is amazing ghost thanks for the updates ! ;)
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The fenders are looking good, you mentioned the arch of one of the opening's was different is that common in a lot of the older cars? I'm putting a set of 265/60/15 under the rear of my 32 hope they will fit and look right, will find out tomorrow.
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Or you can go the other way and get some 13" wheels with gold spokes, chrome knock offs, and tiny tires with skinny white walls. But then you'd have to invest in a lot of hydraulic stuff. ::)
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Ghost, the fenders and especially the top look great!!
Sixball's right, maybe you could get those 22" wheels with the real thin sidewall ;D
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Thanks guys, but the wheels and tires are gonna have to do for awhile especially since the rear set was free. I will look for the right tire and wheel combo when my windfall comes in. I once reduced the wheel opening on a 32 chevy coupe by using the outer skin from a late 30s chevy and ford. it wass cheaper than buying new wheels. I spent the day trying to get three damaged buick front fenders I had for the car to look like a good pair, I think I have done it. pictures to follow. Picture of the chevy coupe fenders.
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Here are a few pictures of the front fenders I am trying to bring back to life for the buick.
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3 front fenders made into a matching pair, looks like its working out pretty good.
mike 8)
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As always your work is impressive, they are looking good.
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Man, You're good. :)
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Look'n good ghost!! That's going to be a good looking ride when your done. I'll sure be glad to get back to metal work myself. :)
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I went digging around in my shed for the buick hood and radiator today, and I found a set of splash aprons I forgot I had. They had written on the back of them 32 chevy? I decided to see if they would fit on the buick. I think with a little massaging I can get them to fit. I also cut apart all three of the hood hinges because they were so damaged, and I am not gonna use the sides. I also think I will make the hood a one piece unit. With all the pieces starting to go on the buick it's starting to look a little long, and I already cut 6 inches out of the body and frame. I hope I don't start feeling like Cruella deville while driving it.
(Huh the pictures wont post right now)
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Sounds like a plan, GHOST. After seeing what you did with the fenders, that splash apron doesn't stand a chance ;)
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Sounds like a plan, Moose. After seeing what you did with the fenders, that splash apron doesn't stand a chance ;)
Chopper,
You called Ghost Moose again!
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Holy shi#!, there's something wrong with me, I think I have a brain tumor. I gotta delete this !
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Ha Ha!! A quick edit, Tom, and I half redeemed myself ::)
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You're alright chopper. After all you drive and built a chevrolet 8).
I was racking my brain on how to get the fender to line up with the 32 chevy splash aprons, when finally I decided to work the fender instead of the apron. I cut a few slits in the lower fender edges that need body work anyway, and then I pulled and clamped the two together. Now all I have to do is add about 11 inches to the length of the apron. The custom running boards will be easy.
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Anybody that builds Chevrolets is alright,
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Come on Chopper even I can tell the difference between a Moose and a Goat. Oh sorry I meant Ghost. ::)
Ghost it is really looking good. It was designed to be a big car just keep the proportions and it will be fine. I really like the lines of the hood and the radiator shell.
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You're alright chopper. After all you drive and built a chevrolet 8).
I was racking my brain on how to get the fender to line up with the 32 chevy splash aprons, when finally I decided to work the fender instead of the apron. I cut a few slits in the lower fender edges that need body work anyway, and then I pulled and clamped the two together. Now all I have to do is add about 11 inches to the length of the apron. The custom running boards will be easy.
Awesome, Ghost. Almost like it came that way!
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Ghost I've looked at the third picture three times now and the only issue I see is the curve or rounded part of the apron which shouldn't be a problem. If you slice the curve can you pull it to the fender?
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Ghost I saw this on eBay and it looks like it would fit your Buick. It might come in handy. ;)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Pines-Winterfront-radiator-grille-cover-1920-s-FORD-MODEL-T-A-CHEVY-/181605189485?pt=Vintage_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2a4883476d&vxp=mtr (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Pines-Winterfront-radiator-grille-cover-1920-s-FORD-MODEL-T-A-CHEVY-/181605189485?pt=Vintage_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2a4883476d&vxp=mtr)
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Ghost I've looked at the third picture three times now and the only issue I see is the curve or rounded part of the apron which shouldn't be a problem. If you slice the curve can you pull it to the fender?
Yeah that is an issue I haven't worked on yet. I will probably make the curve in the fender to match the splash apron.
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Sixball thanks the measurements are exact for my grille. Gonna have to keep an eye on this one. I don't see a reserve.
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Looks like you're getting it spliced together just fine ghost.
Sixball, man that winterfront is cool! I've been wondering if the heaters in these cars worked worth a darn in the winter. I guess I'll be changing out thermostats spring/fall. I would like to have something similar for mine.
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When you look at that fender and apron I think that curve is a small, no big deal fix compared to what you have done.
I put that winterfront in my watch list, I have never seen anything like that before. Of course when I first got my car I had never seen a swamp cooler either. :) I'm a'learnin'.
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A really nice NOS one for a '30 or so Chevy sold about week ago for over $200 if I remember correctly. Essex & Hudson had adjustable louvers stock. They didn't have water pumps like "Ts" but I have read it worked pretty well with a big radiator and a 4 blade fan. We'll see if I get the rest of the stuff to put an Essex together. ::) Anyway Ghost, I'm glad it interested you and I hope you get it. It would add an even more "Unique" look to your roadster. 8) There can't be a lot of those out there.
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I think I have gotten a cold and it's slowed me down, but I have gotten the running boards extended and screwed to the rear fenders for fitting. I have a question for all of you. On the hood I was thinking of making it a one piece top, but I can get a new stainless piano hinge for it also. Leather straps would hold it down both ways.
One piece, or hinge it????
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Ghost, I think if you are using the hood sides (I assume you are) you need to hinge the top. Otherwise you won't be able to open the hood, you would only be able to pull the hood side out. The sides just sort of flapping out to the side. It would look cool but you would have to take the whole hood off to access most of the engine.
If it is just for looks: one piece top. For practicality: two piece top. Just my 5 cents.(Two cents isn't worth what it used to be) ;D
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I won't be using the hood sides.
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Ghost I would agree with chopper if you were using the sides. But just the top half, I like the smooth look and would tend to weld up for a one piece. That's just a personal preference though ;)
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^^^^ What Sammons said.
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If the hood hinges in the middle make the sides removable panels and operate the hood from either side, you can do the same with a one piece hood.
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I won't be using the hood sides.
No sides........... one piece top..smoooooooooth.... 8)
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If it's a one piece hood it still will need to be hinged on both sides or lifted off to service the engine.
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Still haven't decided on the hood design. I did build a insert for the grille this morning it might help keeping rocks from eating up the radiator.
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okay ghost very nice, but the answer you left out, was how you cut the slots into the panel. ????????
mike 8)
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Mike, you took the words right out of my mouth. How did you cut the slots, and how did you cut the holes? Is that some sort of hole punch in the picture?
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huuuuuuum, appears the ghost has himself a plasma cutter , drilled the holes top and bottom, then used the straight edge as a guide for the plasma cutter. File would be to straighten out any wobblies . Would be my guess.
Simplicity in fabrication without needing a milling machine . Like we all have one in our backyard garage , right ???
mike 8)
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huuuuuuum, appears the ghost has himself a plasma cutter , drilled the holes top and bottom, then used the straight edge as a guide for the plasma cutter. File would be to straighten out any wobblies . Would be my guess.
Simplicity in fabrication without needing a milling machine . Like we all have one in our backyard garage , right ???
mike 8)
You called it Mike. I bought the plasma cutter a few years back, and it has saved me time and cut off wheels ever since.
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Again another piece of perfection :)
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[/quote] You called it Mike. I bought the plasma cutter a few years back, and it has saved me time and cut off wheels ever since.
[/quote]
I never realized, or thought that you could get such a straight line out of a plasma cutter. It's too late to get that on my Christmas list.
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My old guy friend, rick the welder, showed me when I got my 3 in 1 unit. = TIG>>STICK>>PLASMA CUTTER. ......I got it off ebay .
If you make a pattern 5/16" of an inch narrower than the shape you want to cut out, out of 3/8---1/2" thick MDF board, as a guide to keep the plasma cutter running straight or around the right curve. He whipped one up and did a demo for me using my brand new just out of the box machine , which he was testing all the functions.
mike.............. 8)
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That insert is awesome ghost!
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That is nice work. I guess this means you didn't get the one on eBay. It went fo a good price but who know how bad that guy wanted it. :D
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Mike that is exactly how you make a pattern for a plasma cutter.
Sixball. Naw I didn't keep a good enough eye on it, and probably wouldn't have spent a lot of money on it. What did it go for?
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Ghost,
Grill insert looks great! Nice work.
Tom
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Just got caught up here.
Your getting it done. Nice work as usual.
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Thanks guys. It's the pat on the back from friends that keeps me going. I am using up what metal I have sitting around and this means for the running boards I have to weld some smaller new metal pieces together to make up the length. These pieces are 14 guage galvanized paintable that I don't even know where I got them, but it's good steel. A buddy tried to brake the edges at his work, but the metal was to thick for his break, so I cut deep scribe lines in them and was able to brake them using my vise. It took a little time, but I got three edges done them done and welded together. Once I figure the exact length I will do the other edge. And yes I ground the galvanized material off them before welding.
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Looks good, Ghost. That will be one sturdy running board.
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I'm sure they will look great when you are finished with them.
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Ghost,
I know what you mean about using what ever you have around the shop. I save every scrap piece I have in case I can use it later. It all goes on a shelf or in a box on the shelf if it's too small. Nice work on the running boards by the way.
Tom
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I did get the boards finished and mounted, but the front fenders were such a crunched mess at the point where the boards mount, I elected to cut this area off and build a new section of fender.
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Looks like that's going to work out fine. Sometimes it's better to cut and fab a new one.
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Ghost nice work they like they fit up nicely
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Looks great and I agree that it's better in install new material rather that fool around trying to repair rusted and smashed metal. Nice job !
Moose
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Here are a few pictures of the 89 camaro clutch and brake pedal assembly I am using.
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That's working out good, I definitely like your second shifter better to. I hate bending over to shift.
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I changed the shifter handle to a hurst indy style
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Those pedals look like they were made for that car. The Hurst shifter is a much better choice, too, I think.
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Those pedals look like they were made for that car. The Hurst shifter is a much better choice, too, I think.
And you think right. ;D
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yes the pedal assembly looks to be correct, I think your choice on the shifter is the right one also
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John,
Nice work on the pedals and shifter! You're really moving along. I like that shifter.
Tom
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Hey guys. I have a set of 49, 50 ford tail lights that I mounted on the rear fenders of the Buick. They were free and I like the shape of them because I am gonna use a back window, and rear view mirror the same shape.
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Ghost, I have to be honest, when I first looked at them I thought they were too long. The more I look at them the better I like them. They will definitely catch your eye. The guy I bought my coupe off of said a common theme was to have your rear windshield, tail lights and tail pipes have the same general shape. I think your plan is good and they will look great.
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I think along with the matching back glass, it should give it good symmetry.
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I like them better than I thought I would. Those are an under used and nicely shaped light. Another over looked part from the shoe box Fords are the trunk hinges.
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Sixball, now that you mention it....there was an old man a couple towns over from me back in the early 70's had a 1930 era coupe (i can't remember chev, ford, etc) but he had the doors hinged with '49 ford trunk hinges. They really looked neat, don't know how long they would last on their side though.
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Thanks Guys. I taped the chrome trim on the body and thought that don't look bad. Then in a fired up moment I drilled the holes in the fender for mounting, and thought UH OH what have I done. They started to grow on me until I was reading the thread about the 33/34 chevy taillight stands, and started questioning my choice again. I will study them for a little longer. :-\
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I think they look a little to long, maybe they will grow on me after awhile
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you basically had 2 choices of where to place the 49-51 ford tail lights, on the lower panel area of the body or the fenders...........either choice is good. Main thing is that they are highly visable to people behind you. Using ron francis bright bulbs will light those tail lights up.
I am running GE HP1 halogen bulbs that are used for lower new car driving lights , strictly for the stop lights. These bulbs are 100 watts and need a 40 amp circuit breaker. Watch your volt meter gauge drop to 8.5---9 volts when you put foot on brake. Can they see you have applied your brakes.......OH YA...
mike 8)
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you basically had 2 choices of where to place the 49-51 ford tail lights, on the lower panel area of the body or the fenders...........either choice is good.
Can they see you have applied your brakes.......OH YA...
I agree about the placemant of the ford lights, but I looked at the body and the curvature of the body was wrong unless I stood them on end, and that was not gonna happen.
Thats one reason for using a bigger lights on the back was so people could see me. Thanks.
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I cut the back window opening from sheet steel and tacked it in place, the I used some poster board to make patterns for the 20 guage steel that will wrap the whole thing and simulate the roof design. The top will be covered in a top material to give it that convertible look.
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Ghost,
You're the man! That looks great. You've been really making some progress on the Buick. At this rate you'll be driving it this spring :)
Tom
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Ghost the top is going to look great when you get all the metal on it and covered.
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A buddy had bunch of old real estate signs that are 20 guage metal and work perfectly for shaping the tight bends of the corners.
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Ghost, slow down, you're making us (me) look bad. That is awesome. I didn't realize you were making the top out of metal, that is nice and will look great covered i canvas or vinyl. Really nice!!
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That's gonna look really good Ghost, that'll look like the real thing when covered!! ;)
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Ghost I agree with Chopper you need to slow down and take a break your moving way to fast.
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Ghost,
I have to admit when I first saw the tail lights I wasn't a big fan. I kept checking back and once I saw it with the roof on it with the rear window opening it changed my mind. They look like they belong 8) I like the direction you're taking. Keep it up!
Tom
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Ghost I read what Tom wrote and I went back and took a look at the pictures again with the top on it and the taillights don't look out of proportion as before, are you going to put a third brake light in the top?
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Ghost I read what Tom wrote and I went back and took a look at the pictures again with the top on it and the taillights don't look out of proportion as before, are you going to put a third brake light in the top?
I have been thinking about a third brake light, but with the top being removable I am not sure about the placement of the light on the top. I was thinking about right below the top and above the trunk lid. Maybe a molded light on the body the kind with slight a canopy over it, and the same shape as the rear window, kinda slender and not to large. Any opinions? Oh and by the way. When It's no longer fun I will slow down. ;D
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Ghost I was going with a late 90's Tahoe 3rd brk light. It's thin, and I was going to flush mount it just below my back window. As my car is going black it would be barely seen. You could do the same just under the top, right below your body bead, if you were going black? Now that I have a louvered deck lid, i'll be mounting mine under the upper rows of louvers. There you go, bring your deck lid down and we'll louver it. ;D
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Too bad you couldn't come up with some kind deal where the light is built into the top (back window) and the top having a (male) plug that inserts into the body when the top is installed?
Then with the top off...you could have another optional light in the glove box that could be plugged into the female connector in the body that is shared with the hard top brake light?
I know that's a lot of syllables... :o
Ed
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Sure is ED but how many sylables will you have if some dum ass rear ends you not nice just ask me.Its not a pretty sight vette59jdwl PS great idea mind if i use it
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Oh and by the way. When It's no longer fun I will slow down. ;D
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Touche Ghost!! If that's the deal, I have a feeling you will never slow down.
I like Sammons idea of putting a thin third light just below the beltline of the body. If you didn't mind not having a third light when the roof is off then I would use Ed's idea and put a light in the roof with a plug connector.
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I'm sure with the talents that Ghost has he will come up with something ;)
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I solved the 3rd brake light by adding 2 of them, specifically for brakes only. They have GE 100 watt halogen bulbs used for driving ditch lights in new cars.
see the luggage rack on each end. At 100 watts each you need a 40 amp circuit breaker in the brake lights system to protect the switch. I have same bulb in 3rd lites and brake lights. These are very bright and tells bozo behind you, you are stopping.
Perfect height for most cars + trucks following you to see, but people in high trucks and little teenie weenie women posing in very large trucks who can barely see over the dash, cannot see your brake lites.
mike 8)
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I finished up the sheet metal on the roof for now. I then took my third member over to a friends shop and replaced the old 1957 ford 9 inch yoke on it to a newer one, so I can get a modern universal joint to work. I installed the third member last night. DAMN those thing are a lot heavier than I remember laying on your back. Anyway the whole rear axle assembly is complete with brakes, axles, and drums. ALMOST A FULL ROLLER.
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Excellent work Ghost, you should be proud!
Tom
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Excellent work Ghost, you should be proud!
Tom
Thanks Tom. I see ya bouncing around like me. You stated awhile back that it was a half roller when I got the front suspension installed, and that statement stuck with me and pushed me. John
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Excellent work Ghost, you should be proud!
Tom
Thanks Tom. I see ya bouncing around like me. You stated awhile back that it was a half roller when I got the front suspension installed, and that statement stuck with me. John
Then when you get the wheels and tires on it it'll be a full roller :) Either way you've come a long way in a short time. It was a few panels when I last saw it.
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Not to much exciting to report. I have just been doing some of the little things, like finish drilling all the mounting holes for the running boards to the fenders and splash aprons, I did get a set of front fender supports from a friend that worked out well, but I am not sure what they are off of and I guess it doesn't matter cuz they are for a buick roadster now. I finished welding and grinding the new front fender mounting plates to the fenders they came out pretty swell.
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Every little bit counts, pretty soon all those little bits ad up. ;) Use what ever works! I try to keep it written down so that if something breaks I've got an idea what I used. I have bins full of cool usable bits that dad or I have saved for projects. Most that I have put up I know what they were off of, dad's stash......... all guess work! Keep keep'n on. :)
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I got a little bored with all the hammering, grinding and straightening of the front fenders. So I decided to put a rear tire and wheel on the roadster for grins. These hoosiers are about 27 1/2 inches tall and not to bad, but I am thinking a 29 to 30 inch tall tire would be a little better to fill the void. even though the the car is resting on the axle with jack stands, I will know better when I can set it on the ground. It's starting to look like the picture moose did for me.
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It's looking great!
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Really starting to take shape. I enjoy seeing it come together...You're doing a great job!!
Moose
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Nice, Ghost. That top looks awesome!!
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Ghost I agree with you on the space between the tires and the fenders. I also like my wheel opening filled you just have to have clearance for suspension travel so the tires don't rub. Do your tires set under the fenders completely? What type of springs are you using in the rear?
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Ghost. Do your tires set under the fenders completely? What type of springs are you using in the rear?
No the tires are sticking out just a little on the edge of the fenders, but I am thinking if the tires were 70 series instead of 60s they would tuck under the fender a little better. If not maybe a 7 inch rim instead of 8 inch be in better. The springs are adjustable coilovers and are adjusted all the way out. I do like the placement of the tire in the fender well opening, but it's just not big enough?
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The placement is fine I was just about the suspension travel and if a taller tire would rub.
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The placement is fine I was just about the suspension travel and if a taller tire would rub.
I would have to hit a hard bump to get the sidewall to rub, and most likely it wouldn't rub then because of the amount of travel distance I have. I think a 70 or 75 series tire even though taller they would be narrower in size. I can check this at my local tire shop. Thanks John
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If you increased the wheel back space (1/4", 3/8"or 1/2") ..would you have enough inside clearance?
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Looks good Ghost! I went with a 70 series tire for the rear on mine. You're right they are a little taller and narrower. I looked at www.tirerack.com to get the tire dimensions.
Tom
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Thanks guys. I found a 265-70 series tire that is 29.63 inches tall. So I know they are out there.
I have been hammering on the front fenders and they are starting to look a little better, but there is so much more to do, and I hate body work with a passion >:( So I stopped doing that for awhile, and decided to make some header flanges so I can start on the lake headers.
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Lookin good. It helps to do a change up once in a while.
I'm the opposite, i'm tired of all the other fab work and can't wait to get to the body work! ;)
If you had access to one of those 3D printer things, (along with someone to operate it), maybe you could find a couple pic's of the flapper girl of your choice and print one out. Then send off to get Nickel plated (or chrome) ;D
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Thanks guys. I found a 265-70 series tire that is 29.63 inches tall. So I know they are out there.
I have been hammering on the front fenders and they are starting to look a little better, but there is so much more to do, and I hate body work with a passion >:( So I stopped doing that for awhile, and decided to make some header flanges so I can start on the lake headers.
Ghost, you have probably already been on a site like this, but this helped me big time when I was trying to figure out what size tire best fit my car. http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/tirecalc.php
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ghost YOU PROBABLY NEED A TIRE THAT TALL 29--30 JUST TO FILL THOSE BIG REAR FENDER TIRE OPENINGS. that's ONE OF THE THINGS WITH THE BIGGER CARS LIKE THE BUICK, THEY RAN 22--24" RIMS ? AND USED 31--33" TALL STOCK TIRES .
My friend frank has a 25 dodge bros 4 door sedan and it came with 25" rims and stock tires were 33..........made it real rough to find a tire to fill the wheel opening. He ended up using L..78 x 15 Michelins. Car could still stand to have a 30--31" tire.
mike......... 8)
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Thanks Tom, Chopper. I haven't looked at any of the tire sites yet, but I wll check out those sites. Madmike. By me measurements your right the 30 inch tire would be the best size. On another note. I decided not to run lake headers on the buick. I had some old chevy headers with good condition tubes, so I decided since I built the flanges I would try my hand at building a set of headers for the buick today.
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GHOST , one of the problems with a really tall tire is the sidewalls.
For instance if your running 15" rims all around it can be an optical illusion that the rear rims are smaller than the fronts, even tho you know they are not. The problem is the rear tire of 29-30" tall with a 75 or 70 profile tire, the amount of rubber to the eye makes it appear as the rim is smaller. Actually looks dumb.
But the problem can be solved using larger 17-18" rims on the rear with appropriate size tires with 15" fronts.
The more you get the car to squat down in the leaves the easier it is to pull it off . Not a lot of people are aware of this. Its more common visually on model A fords.
This is my coupe from the side and if you stare at it the rear rims appear slightly smaller with the optical illusion than the fronts. both are 15 x 6 GM rallye
mike 8)
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Ghost, tyhose headers look great!
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headers are all finished up, and the welding was a lot easier than I thought. I figured out that you weld al the tubes together in the center before you put the collectors on, then I cut a small slit in the collector and hammer the metal into the curvature of the tubes and weld solid. I stuck a light in the collector and checked for light coming through. Today I am gonna try to fabricate an alternator bracket in a high mount fashion.
The alternator bracket was a piece a of cake. one small 3/8 ths piece of steel and an adjustment bracket fabricated (done). I am not sure if I will be putting AC in the car later on, but I had an old chevy aftermarket bracket that I was able to modify for the nail head just in case I get hot and decide air conditioning will be needed.
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Ghost,
Nice work on the headers and alternator brackets. It's come a long way in a short period of time.
Tom
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Thanks Tom....I had to do it I just had to, because I wanted to hear what the headers sound like on the 401 engine. ::) MAN. I like the sound of crisp, cackling headers, I forgot how much I really like that sound. :P
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Haha, I know what you mean! I had to make myself take my 301 off the test stand. I couldn't help my self from firing it up every 2-3 days. Loved to here it lope along warming up, then cracking the throttle. ;D ;D Very addictive!
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Ghost nice work on the headers and alternator bracket.
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I don't know if you can see it in this picture or not, but when I moved the rear fender shapes around to fit the original buick fender mounting. It stretched the fenders enough to make the wheels look like there knocked off there center mounting. I thought about adding to the fenders, but I think that would look like ASS. So I decided to put the fenders back to shape and modify the quarters to fit the fenders. Wish me luck on more cutting on this poor car. I did get both doors body worked, and I'm almost finished with the trunk lid.
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I see what you mean ghost. Is it pulling fender in at the lower back? That's what it lookslike to me. Three steps forward, two steps back. Why do we do this? ;D
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It also looks like you lost some of the radius on the lip....or am I wrong? Whatever you come up with I know will take care of biz and look great.
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It looks like if you roll or tuck the rear part of the fender in a little it would give the illusion that the opening is round.
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Yeah I did lose some of the radious on the lip where the cut is. The fender just flips up at the rear so high it causes the illusion of the rear axle out of sinc. I think I got it cleaned up, but I did have to cut the quarter panel. OH WELL More damn body work. :'(
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Body work is not that bad, I'm block sanding between cold spells If gives you a lot of time to think :)
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I guess the body work is not to bad. I did get both quarter panels reshaped, They now fit the tire shape better. A before and after shot.
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Looks like ya got her whipped, nice job!
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I like it ;D
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Now that looks good!!
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it looks a lot better it appears to be concentric now
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I like way the position of the fenders on the quarters look now. Even if you wouldn't have had to move it for the tire.
To me the quarter looks better behind the fender with a little more quarter showing.
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Ghost, it looks perfect!
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Nice work.
If you lived closer, I'd get you to do my Hudson ones. :)
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I figured out the colors and BOUGHT the paint for the roadster. I have decided to paint the main body, hood and grille shell, a pure silver, and the windhield frame, and supports along with the fenders, splash aprons, running boards, and dash board a dark grey silver charcoal. Man I hope it looks as good as my imagination views it.
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I think your color choice will look great. I did my old Mustang in those colors, really clean look!
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A friend came by today. I enlisted him to help take the top off and seat out and help me put them in storage. Then we stood the roadster body on it's nose again, this way I can caulk all the seams with body check and get it primed, painted, and undercoated. Most of the hard body work is finished to a point. When I set it back down on my rolling cart I can start the heavy primer and blocking process.
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John, I'm impressed! The roadster has come a long way since I saw it almost two years ago. You've been really busting ass on it and it shows. Great job!
Tom
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John, I'm impressed! The roadster has come a long way since I saw it almost two years ago. You've been really busting ass on it and it shows. Great job!
Tom
Thanks Tom. It never seems to go together fast enough, but most of the progress has been in the last 3 to 4 months. I'm on a mission 8) Oh did ya notice the picture in the background?
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Looks like the car in my garage. Hope it gave you some inspiration ;D
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Looks like the car in my garage. Hope it gave you some inspiration ;D
I grab inspiration wherever, and your car picture helps ;D
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Looks great, Ghost. On the street by summer?
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Dang ghost, next time back on the chassis it's there to stay. No doubt you'll be driving this summer. ;D Which reminds me, i'll still have to pull mine again to rebuild the chassis. :-[
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A friend came by today. I enlisted him to help take the top off and seat out and help me put them in storage. Then we stood the roadster body on it's nose again, this way I can caulk all the seams with body check and get it primed, painted, and undercoated. Most of the hard body work is finished to a point. When I set it back down on my rolling cart I can start the heavy primer and blocking process.
Standing it on it's nose is a great ideal, I was afraid to do that as I thought it might damage the cowl. I did the bottom of my car while it was off the frame and supported on 4x4 from a creeper on my back you make it look easy.
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Thanks guys. Chopper, and sammons. I don't know about this summer, but I am still holding out hope. 62131 I was a little concerned about setting it on it's nose without the doors this time, but I put some bracing in that area and it didn't move a bit. It has a pretty tough reveal all around the firewall, and it didn't bend it last time. :-\ hope hope. I did get the seams all filled and the first application of seal coat black sprayed on the bottom, but it's cold out side and I have to open the doors to let the stink out. I am gonna wait for it to warm up before any more painting.
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I spent the afternoon building a bracket, that bolts to the bellhousing, so I can mount the slave cylinder from the 89 camaro. it turned out good and strong. Now I have to figure out how to bleed the system without a bleeder on it. Any ideas on this??????. Worse case scenario is I might have to buy a new slave cylinder with a bleeder on it.
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Ghost when I put the 5spd in my friend Lonnies '32 p.u, I bench blead the master , ran fliud in the line and slave (cracking the line a couple times) hooked it up and pumped it a few times, then held the peddle and cracked the line at the m/c.a couple times and it has been fine since. The air should go up to m/c.
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Ghost when I put the 5spd in my friend Lonnies '32 p.u, I bench blead the master , ran fliud in the line and slave (cracking the line a couple times) hooked it up and pumped it a few times, then held the peddle and cracked the line at the m/c.a couple times and it has been fine since. The air should go up to m/c.
The line wont crack on this unit. It has a pin that has to be tapped out to release the line for either the slave or master for replacement. Kinda a sealed unit.
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Ghost,
I just went to youtube and punched in "bleeding a camaro clutch" and several came up.
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I usually knock out the roll pin remove the slave completely, then use rubber hose to hook the line to a can of brake fluid, make sure MC is full. Then by hand i pump the pedal in AND out to push air into the can and pull fluid IN. . Then I tip the slave upright and carefully fill it to the top with brake fluid. Hold your thumb over it. Then carefully and quickly reconnect the line back into the slave , reinstall the roll pin. Then ,by hand I manually push the SLAVE rod all the way in to force air up into the MC reservoir. Its kinda tough, def need two hands but doing this pushes all the air up and out. Then reconnect the slave to the trans bracket . Now I would manually pump the MC rod before hooking the pedal back up as well , garanteed full travel is what you need to bleed these systems.
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Ghost,
I just went to youtube and punched in "bleeding a camaro clutch" and several came up.
Thanks. I did look on line and most were telling me to replace the slave with a bleeder valve unit for simplicity.
28 Chevy. Your information sounds the best so far. I think I can get it done when the time comes.
Thanks guys. I still have a long way to go. :'(
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I spent the day building the 2 1/2 inch exhaust piping, and mufflers from the header collectors to the rear axle. I used the big pipe because I had it left over from a car I bought and it was like new. I am gonna reduce the pipe in size to go over the axle and out the back. It sure is a lot easier to do all this stuff with the body off. Next it's on to the brake lines, and drive shaft.
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Ghost you will be up and running before you know it at this rate. Look'n good man!!
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I got all the painting and undercaoting finished and dried on the buick, it is back on it's belly.
Today was so nice, I decided to smother the car with some k36 heavy build primer I had sitting around. I dumped three pots of this stuff on the buick body, and it is thick and a little hard to shoot from a small needle gun, but if fills scratches well. I am gonna still use the Upol primer in the future as long as it will be compatable with ppg.
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It's got to feel good to have it all in one color, even if it's just primer. :)
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Big step! Getting closer to taking a drive this summer :)
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Ghost, you do in one day what I have been putting off and not been able to do for the last 6 months!
Looks great!!
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Chopper that might be true but your putting together your interior ahead of your paint, and from what I have read your correct in your assembly steps as you might need to weld braces or tabs to attach your panels which could possibly damage your paint. I've put my body in primer and after reading that article I gave it a lot of thought and changed my direction on my build a little.
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Thanks. It is a BIG step in the right direction, but it's just the first coat of primer, and will need lots of blocking to get it nice enough for the final paint. Thank God it's a small car.
I have thought about my interior and have most if not all the mounting areas are set in place. I know painting is expensive, but so is upholstery, and like not mounting the body before painting, so I wont get any over spray on anything, I think the upholstery will have to go in later so I can get paint in all those tight areas and not hurt the upholstery.
I do agree if can be taped off so it wont hurt anything.
What is every ones opinion on paint before of after upholstery? I am open to suggestions
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I guess it's up to personal prefference and how careful you are, and quality of help you recruit. I personally wait to paint till every thing else is done.
I do all the (or most) of the body work and fab. Test fit everything, do the chassis, do all the cab wiring, paint the firewall and jambs. Then I lay plastic mask (the heavy 3M automotive stuff) over the chassis (roll up the edges so I can move the car). Mount the body back on. Then I finish wiring get it running, do the interior( and top, vinyl or conv.). Install all glass, then I use that 3M jamb mask tape (kind of round, leaves a soft edge can easily be rubbed out by hand later) to do the jambs. Then roll down chassis mask plastic back down frame and under and paint and trim.
This eliminates me (or others) from scratching up the body while handeling or mounting. Dropping wire pliers and chipping jambs, chipping fenders getting it running,etc. All of this has happened to me and more, and not just from my recruited help either. I'm not saying it's the right way, just works for me.
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I used to wait to final paint, but every time I did I would have to much fun driving and got to be known as the guy with the primered car. :'( I guess this time I am gonna try to paint it before I put it on the road to avoid that. I don't think I have enough will power to do it any other way and actually get it painted :(
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I wanted to drive the 32 in black primer, but I'm to lazy by nature and its a lot of back tracking to take it apart.
I know my thought process is flawed, but if it wasn't I would buy a completed car and fix the little things the previous owner ment to.
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wow that looks great!! keep it up ! this things gonna be done in no time .
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My thought was to get my car driveable first. I did that and I had some fun with it and shook out most of the bugs. Now, I am fitting in the interior the way I want, but not really upholstering anything other than the headliner, because it is so difficult to take in and out. Anyway, once I have my interior panels in shape I am going to take them out and prime the car, block the car, paint the car. Then I will upholster the interior panels, put in the door glass and channels, install the upholstered interior and drive off into the sunset. Oh yea, upholster the trunk, too ;D
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wow that looks great!! keep it up ! this things gonna be done in no time .
I don't know about that done business.
In between the summer household jobs, and mowing the grass constantly because of rain, I did find enough time to block the roadster, all it's main body parts, and then gave it another bath of heavy primer today. I also found just enough time to block and primer the 40 truck cab.
A good day all around. And now it just started to rain again.
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Lookin' good!
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Thanks Tom. I just went and checked the thread start, and can't believe it going on 28 months for this build. I better get my butt in gear.
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I better get my butt in gear.
Looks great...Just remember that building them is at least half the fun plus it gives you a good excuse for overlooking some of those nasty chores that keep popping up around the house. ;)
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That's looking velvety smooth Ghost. ;)
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Looks good, Ghost. Is that a second round of UPOL?
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Looks good, Ghost. Is that a second round of UPOL?
No that's actually the first round of Upol, but it two heavy coats over the top of some PPG k36 primer that I had allready blocked down.
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Ghost28 It's looking good, appears to be nice and smooth in the pictures.
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Ghost28 It's looking good, appears to be nice and smooth in the pictures.
It's fairly smooth for the most part, but there were a few small areas I drifted away from the body and it is a little drier and courser. I finally talked a friend out of this fuel tank he bought and never used. He kept telling me he had a plan for it. I think I nagged him enough and with a little cash and a couple of trade items, I now have a 15 gallon fuel tank. I'm making a flat area in the trunk to mount it with a couple of straps.
Now all I have to get is my wiring harness, and a few small items for the fuel, and brake line parts. I can finally see the light at the end of the damn tunnel. I hope it's not a train. ???
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Ghost,
Nice score! 15 gallons will be plenty for the little roadster.
Tom
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Ghost,
Nice score! 15 gallons will be plenty for the little roadster.
Tom
Thanks Tom. My worst fear now is that the 401 engine will be a gas guzzler. I might have to revert back to my old man driving style. Slow and steady and in everyones way.
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If that engine is tuned correctly it should do fine, I have been messing with the timing on my sbc in my 38 and fuel mileage is really improving.
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Ghost28 It's looking good, appears to be nice and smooth in the pictures.
It's fairly smooth for the most part, but there were a few small areas I drifted away from the body and it is a little drier and courser.
I had the same problem when I primed my coupe. I chalk that up to my inexperience. I just had to do a little extra blocking.
Nice score on the fuel tank. And for what it's worth, I think you have to drive that car like you stole it, forget gas mileage!! ;D
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Morning fellas. Darn cumputer is running old hound dog slow this AM. I got my tank mounted . I made a platformfor the tank to sit level on, and used some straps made from some 3/16th by 1 inch metal, and used some 1/4 by 2 inch wide rubber that I use for body mounting to go between the strap and tank. It turned out pretty solid.
I also needed some caps for the header collectors, and found some 3 16th plate for making these. A little overkill on the thickness but that's OK.
Have a look. John
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Nice Ghost, that tank ain't gonna go anywhere! I wish I had that much room left in my trunk. :(
I like your dumps, they look similar to what dad put on the ol '58 Vette. ;) I almost forgot it had them.
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Ghost that tank looks secure, nice job, the caps look great also.
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I think the nailhead gives the car great personality!
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Tank looks great, Ghost. Didn't you make those headers yourself?
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Logride. I agree, I thought about engine choices since I chose the nail head, and can't come up with another one for this car. even the modern buick power plants don't fit the build. In a pinch a big block chevy would look good in the engine bay if done right.
Chopper. Yeah I built the flanges, and cut up a set of real nice small block headers for the tubes, suprisingly I only had to cut two tubes for reshaping to get them to work.
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Monday I got the clear coat from the same guy I got the paint from. The paint and clear are a matched set. I might get the dash, visor, windhield posts, frame, and some small parts ready, and paint them body color. This way I can install and wire up the guages. Then find a spot to hide all them away for safety. I just hope I don't forget where I put them. :-[
I just spent 7 hours on the body work on the 40 chevy truck, just on the lower back cab sheetmetal. What is with people back in the day using these truck as trucks. SHEESH
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Sounds like a good plan, Ghost. I'd like to see some pictures of that truck.
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Both you guys are going to jump ahead of me :) Glad to see both cars progressing!
Tom
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Sounds like a good plan, Ghost. I'd like to see some pictures of that truck.
Here are a few pictures of the cab with the body work done and with primer. I haven't been taking too many pictures of this truck. The cab roof was jumped on, and it looked like someone took a shot gun to the back lower so bad that I had to replace a large 20 by 12 inch chunk of metal. All the holes in the firewall have been filled, and the lower drivers front corner was missing, because of the plan for fenderwell headers. It's getting there.
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Ghost The cab looks great
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Looks great and you have a seat to take a nap on when you're done working ;D
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Since it's fathers day and I am feeling pretty good, I decided to put some color on the buick parts. It turned out pretty good, but the firewall has some flaws in the body work that I knew about and I am not to concerned about since the big heavy thing sits in front of it, and covers most of the firewall anyway. The color is a 2002 toyota gold champagne.
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More.
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That's a nice rich looking color Ghost. That's going to look real sharp. ;) Years back I painted the local bankers Studebaker that similar color (looked the same anyway). Enjoy the day man! :D
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Looks great John!
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I love your choice of color and from what I see you don't have to worry about any flaws...Looks great!!
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liked the color also, I quess you need to point out the flaws as I didn't see any, Looks great.
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It's all in how you hold the camera. :) I take better pictures than body work, but the lessons been learned, and the main body will be massaged a lot more before finishing. I simply forgot that I hadn't done the final filling and blocking of some of the patchwork holes on the firewall. OOOPS. Since it's in the engine bay, I might just leave it. ::)
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I guess its all in the look your after, if you ever think that you would say I wish I had went ahead and fixed that. Then take the time and fix the spots as it will haunt you every time you look that way. :(
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I decided I didn't care for the champagne color on the window posts and frames, so I painted them and the grille insert usiing a spray chrome that looks more like aluminum than chrome which I like. It will tone down all the champagne color of the upper body, and I will most likely clear coat them for a tad more shine.
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I don't see those flaws, it looks pretty good to me. I do like the color. Nice stuff.
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Jeez. I spent 4 hrs installing the cowl vent . Most of it was fixing the brackets that hinge it, and making sure it fit the hole square. The brackets were bent up pretty bad. I wasn't to gentle taking it out. :-[
I am gonna start on the final sanding of the body and parts today. I would like to drive this sometime this year.
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Ok guys. here are a few shots of the paint. It's a mixture of my own a silver grey urethane, single stage, with a heavy dose of metal flake. Everyone kept telling me that heavy silver paint with flake is hard to shoot. It is challenging, but once you get it figured out it's not so bad. I am sure the car is a good 50 footer, and it might wave at you when I go by, but oh well at least it's not primer like all my old builds and it's mine.
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A couple more
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NICE... can't wait to see it together...keep pluggin away at it
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Looks good Ghost, I like that color. It's about the same color as my '69 vette interior, gun metal grey (I loved it!) And just a bit lighter than my first '57 chevy.
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Looks great Ghost! Keep at it and you'll be driving it before the snow flies :)
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Ghost,I'm a big fan of heavy flake...That's gonna be killer when its all together!!!
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Ghost really got to like that flake everybody likes a little bling :) Looking good can't wait to see it come together.
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I like it, Ghost. And I think you're just being modest, you should be bragging! :)
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The color fits that body perfectly.
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Thanks guys. I really like the color choice. I was able to get the trunk lid installed with the help of a neighbor, but I had to make some bump stops from 1/4 20 bolts and old rubber pieces from a 51 ford. I also glued some 2 inch by 2 inch rubber inside the trunk lid to help with anti squeak. The guages and turnsignals, and high beam indicator, are installed in the dash and wired up, I don't have the tach yet, but I pre wired for it also.
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The turn signals and high beam indicator is right above the collumn drop.
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Ghost your moving right along. Looks like you will be cruising by the end of summer. Nice work! :)
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I see cruise night in your future Ghost Looking good
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Looks great, Ghost. I dread trying to takle the wiring behind my dash, but I know it is in my near future.
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Im sure you already know but the car looks amazing . love that color !
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I finished up painting the visor and cowl vent and installed them today. I decided to try painting the running boards with the supposed red color, it's a base coat clear coat and it came out with a lot of orange and way to shiney. I was gonna use this on the fenders, splash aprons,and boards and it's REALLY not the look I was shooting for. I think I am gonna go back to a charcoal grey single stage paint color with a lot of flake for the lower parts it should keep both colors with the same sheen.
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I agree. If it's not all going to be the same color then the darker charcoal would be classy. The body looks great.
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I think the charcoal is a good choice, Ghost. That orange almost looks like primer.
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I agree the charcoal would look great and the orange not so much.
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I think the charcoal would look better also. just my .02 cents
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This is getting exciting. 8)
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This is getting exciting. 8)
I think so too. ;D Today was supposed to be a relax day, yeah right. I couldn't just sit around, I will do that when I get really old. I used my gantry crane and rigged up a safe way for me and the buick, to lift the body and put it back on the chassis. I have to modify only one body mount hole in the floor pan otherwise there back together, and I'm smiling.
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Now that is cool! Congrats ;D
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Ghost I have to give it a two thumbs up looking good.
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Ghost....looking good . ...bet you can't wait until it is all together..keep at it
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I agree with the rest....Looking great!!
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That really looks good, don't slow down.
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Lookin sharp Ghost! :) very nice work. Your gettin close.
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Nice! Good job.
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Thanks guys. You guys inspire me to get things done. I got the wiring harness on the way thanks to a friend.
I will keep you posted of any improvements.
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I got a little more assembled on the buick and trying to get as much done as I can with the parts I have at this time. I also built the adjustment rods from the cowl to the firewall and test fit the hood which I haven't painted yet.
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That looks great, Ghost. I like what you are doing with the interior panels too. Are you going to cover the panels or just go with the textured side exposed?
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That looks great, Ghost. I like what you are doing with the interior panels too. Are you going to cover the panels or just go with the textured side exposed?
They will be covered later on with a lighter colored material to brighten up the inside of the car.
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Ghost what are the interior panels being made from?
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Ghost what are the interior panels being made from?
It's a 1/8th inch plastic upholstery board that can be shaped with heat to conform to interior curves. I posted a spot on the what did you do today thread.
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Where can you purchased it?
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A friend bought the panels I used from a company called western auto upholstery. located he said on 41st and steele st in Denver Colo. I would think any auto upholstery shop that sell material would have some?
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A friend bought the panels I used from a company called western auto upholstery. located he said on 41st and steele st in Denver Colo. I would think any auto upholstery shop that sell material would have some?
Thanks I've got a friend that's in that business I'll ask him if he has it available.
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I finished up all the interior panels including the toe boards, or if you prefer kick panels, until I get it all upholstered. I then installed a aluminum bulk head between the trunk and passenger compartment. This will also have a removable piece of upholstery board. The mounting clips I am using are a chrysler item and work well with a 1/4 inch hole.
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Evening Fellas. I now have three cars I am dividing my time on. The 40 chevy truck, a 68 mustang that I am fixing a few problems it has for my dentist, and MY roadster. I started the wiring on the roadster because that's where the proiorities are, I mounted the fuse panel up high above the brake and clutch pedals, and I had to turn it sideways to make a better fit. The wiring up front is routed to the headlights through a 1/2 inch steel conduit, that also serves as my radiator to cowl support and adjustment bars, and the engine is wired. The back half is routed under the kick panelsup front, below the door in a channel I made, and behind the rear upholstery panel to the trunk area. I then drilled 5 holes in different locations, and put rubber grommets for the tail lights, licence light, and the backup lights. The dome light wire, and third brake light location aren't decided yet. I did find a good spot for my coil. I had enough room to mount it passenger side on the back of the cylinder head.
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Coil location.
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Ghost, you are a professional! The wire run through the radiator support conduit is "trick". 8)
Better get on that Mustang, though, your mouth is in his hands.
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Ghost, you are a professional! The wire run through the radiator support conduit is "trick". 8)
Better get on that Mustang, though, your mouth is in his hands.
Thanks chopper. I allready fixed the fit of the front wheels. He couldn't get them to fit with out rubbing inside or out with different spacers he bought, so I machined 1/8th inch from his 1 inch spacers and bingo no rubbing. Now on to replacing the drivers front floor pan he put a floor jack through. ooops :o
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Ghost, you are a professional! The wire run through the radiator support conduit is "trick". 8)
I agree, that's a great idea! Nice work :)
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Thanks guys, and chopper I did work on the mustang, putting a water pump on this one wasn't easy. But back to what's really important. I finished up the wiring for the most partall except lighting, but that needs the fenders to complete but they are run to the locations. I found a old licence holder and light in my cabinets, where it came from?????. I cleaned it up and mounted it on the rear of the buick, Now I need to find some really neat backup lights. I even hooked up the neutral safety, which on a standard transmission is connected to the clutch pedal. Note the old 4 blade fan I found, and the porcelin buick sign on the grille shell that used to be on the rear of the car.
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Ghost, you are going to be on the road in no time!!
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WIRING WIRING. I installed a couple of small door ground buttons for a couple of interior lights that I mounted behind the dash on the kick panels, so with either the doors open, or by the headlight switch I should have some courtesy lights for the floorboard. I had a few rolls of eastwood sound and heat barrier so I covered the firewall under the dash, and on the floor in the cockpit. Mostly I am using up all the stuff I have been hoarding for a few years.
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A couple of progress pics and the 1926 colo licence plate I got for the buick.
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Everything is looking so nice neat an clean, looking great.
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Ghost, the car is looking great, you are making quick progress. I like the wheels, they are perfect for the car.
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Thanks guys it's getting there.
I spent the better part of today setting up the steering. Two single joints and a double, with a couple of adjustable stablizers should keep it off the frame and exhaust. I knew it would be tight and it is.
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Dang Ghost, you are sure getting close. It's sure coming together nice, and I really like that color on that car!
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Ghost looks awesome! I'm going to have to book a vacation to Colorado so I can get a ride in it ;D
Tom
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Ghost looks awesome! I'm going to have to book a vacation to Colorado so I can get a ride in it ;D
Tom
Any time. Hell I will let you guys drive it, but not too far. ;D
I mounted the seat in the car, so now I can sit in it and make engine noises, and stare at the dash lights after dark. I know I'm strange. I did find a trunk handle in my junk pile and made a latch for it. one more thing off the check list.
John
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Ghost, what do you plan on using for a grill mascot / hood ornament?
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Ghost, what do you plan on using for a grill mascot / hood ornament?
I have been thinking about that. I know the original was a dog bone style, I am not oposed to it, but that was for an original. HMMM. Maybe wings that sit low on the shell. Any suggestions guys.
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Ghost it's looking great, I would use the original hood ornament let it stand tall and proud.
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I vote for this!!! hehe ;D
http://www.ebay.com/itm/CHROME-SKULL-HOOD-ORNAMENT-w-CHATTERING-JAW-JEWELED-RED-REFLECTOR-EYES-HOTROD-/201409161062?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2047675.l2557&nma=true&si=BuALhlhN31ZKc%252BFOszhu3RLJigM%253D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc#ht_301wt_1362
Ghost that seat not only fits, but it is the perfect color!
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I vote for this!!! hehe ;D
Ghost that seat not only fits, but it is the perfect color!
Chopper I think NOT. I like ya buddy , but I think you might need a little help. ;D
And yes the seat is a good match for now for this budget build.
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I got my speedway order in late last night. It's off to the shop to finish up the front brakes lines so I can bleed them, then install the fuel tank fittings, and work on the steering a little more. I did remake my exhaust the other day so it fits the new design of the headers.
It's getting closer..... John
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I agree the seat looks great.
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Ghost saw this at a swap meet this morning. It was off of a 27 Buick. Would be cool on your car but the $500 asking price kept me walking :)
Tom
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Thanks for thinking about me Tom, but for $500.00 dollars I'd weld up the hole and smooth it out before I spend that kind of money. hell I could finish my car for that, but that is the style of mascot I would like to find. A friend is gonna finish my body work on the fenders, splash aprons and shoot them in color all I gotta do is buy the materials. I will wire up his 55 chevy truck with him buying all the harness and materials in trade. Didn't I tell you I hate body work >:(. Good trade for me.
John
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Ghost saw this at a swap meet this morning. It was off of a 27 Buick. Would be cool on your car but the $500 asking price kept me walking :)
Tom
I sold a 28 buick radiator ornament / rad cap about a month ago on ebay , went for under $306. From what I can see a whole lot of the bottom of that ornament for $500 was missing. $50 in that condition. Those things are die cast and extremely fragile, be a bear to fix.
this is the one I sold july 13 on ebay
mike
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That's a nice one Mike. I really like the facial feature of that mascot.
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I got the fenders back from the guy I did the trade with, and they look good. I am gonna wait to mount them up until I get the steering and drive shaft completed. They are the charcoal color and a bit different from the body. Have a look guys.
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I like it :D Can't wait to see them on the car!
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They should really nice when mounted, I like the two tone look.
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Really like the color combo ghost!
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While we are on the subject of mascots or hood ornaments i thought i would throw this in great site lots of good reading---------------http://www.discounthoodornaments.com/...Also my two cents worth at the prices that i see these going for and you got a chance to buy or purchase one cheap why could you not get a couple of packages of JB Weld and have at it by the time you spent 10 hours playing with a broken one and a can of CHROME I will bet you it would look as good as the real deal Dont forget its only an ornament in our cases its not pressurized like in the old days. just my two cents worth of nothing vette59jdwl
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While we are on the subject of mascots or hood ornaments i thought i would throw this in great site lots of good reading---------------http://www.discounthoodornaments.com/...Also my two cents worth at the prices that i see these going for and you got a chance to buy or purchase one cheap why could you not get a couple of packages of JB Weld and have at it by the time you spent 10 hours playing with a broken one and a can of CHROME I will bet you it would look as good as the real deal Dont forget its only an ornament in our cases its not pressurized like in the old days. just my two cents worth of nothing vette59jdwl
I like your thinking, so I guess your two cents might be worth a bit more. If it's cheap enough it would be worth the effort.
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another just for good luck---------http://www.discounthoodornaments.com/history------vette58jdwl
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Ghost------How about this one----http://www.ebay.com/itm/VINTAGE-ART-DECO-HOOD-ORNAMENT-WINGED-VIKING-1931-CHEVROLET-1924-1925-1926-1927-/272017587647?hash=item3f5582fdbf:g:m2kAAOSwYHxWIA6o&vxp=mtr------1926 buick rad cap vette59jdwl
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Those fenders look great, Ghost, straight too.
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Slow time in my shop, so I study my roadster a bit to much, and discovered some flaws to correct.
1. the body was sitting 1 inch over to the passenger side at the rear of the car not to big of a deal but with the fenders on the tire would have stuck out on that side, Fixed it.
2. The front fenders had a big flaw right where they bolt to the running boards that would have bothered me a lot, so I had to repair the area and then had to scuff the whole fenders for a reshoot. Waiting for a warm day to coat them again. I guess I have time until next spring to get everything right.
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Ghost, can't wait till I get to that point. Fixing the small alignment problems and oversights, part of the game! ;)
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The front fenders had a big flaw right where they bolt to the running boards that would have bothered me a lot, so I had to repair the area and then had to scuff the whole fenders for a reshoot. Waiting for a warm day to coat them again. I guess I have time until next spring to get everything right.
Spring will be here before you know it.......................right??? :-\
I'll bet KiwiJeff is wringing his hands right now.
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Winter is not even here, and I am wanting spring allready. I got a little more done on the Buick. The driveshaft is built and installed, The last steering joint should be here early next week, and the windshield frames are at the glass shop getting fitted for new glasses. I am hoping the weather is nice towards the end of next week for a around the neighborhood shakedown run. Nothing to extreme just enough to scare the kids and some little old ladies. HEHE
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Awesome! Hope the weather holds out for you. Pics or video would be cool!
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Yes, Spring! I
ll vote for that. 8) I'm still plumbing water tanks and it's time to drain a couple of them. It's supposed to get down to 25 Tueaday night. Man another season gone with no real progress on the roadster. :( At least the tree trimming netted enough wood to heat the shop this winter. ;D
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It was really nice yesterday, so I decided to mount up the rear fenders, and tail lights.
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Ghost you're fenders are looking good and the contrasting color combination looks great.
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Ghost, that's really gonna be a sharp ride! I don't think you'll meet another on the road that looks the same. Well done my friend! ;)
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Sweeeet!
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Lookin good Ghost28.She is going to be a sweet ride think of all the cusing and pain she has caused and then look at her and smile.Sure was worth all the BS now wasn't it. It is almost there. After WINTER Comes SPRING and then SUMMER is in the air car shows barbaques swimming holes and lets not forget the BEER vette59jdwl
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AHH yes let's not forget the Beer :)
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Looking good, Ghost. When are you going to take it around the block?
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Looking good, Ghost. When are you going to take it around the block?
I got the last piece of the puzzle last night, and it took me about an hour to hook up the final steering joint. Then I fired up the old girl and drove her over to the 7 eleven and treated her to some high octane gas, then ran around the neighbor hood until it got dark. I got to say with the 401 nailhead she has some moves, pulls real hard, and with the 5 speed will bark the tires going into second. I had a hard time putting her away last night. Onward and upward.
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Congrats man! Nothing like the first trip down the street. ;D
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Congrats Ghost38 Did that make you feel 20 years younger,It would have made me so lol lol vette59jdwl
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I believe SPRING has sprung here or is it just wishfull thinking or is it Indian Summer whatever it is it sure is welcome it is 70 degrees here at almost 1030 I talked with my eldest daughter last night she lives in Cold Lake Alberta and dang they had snow about one to one and a half inches BUUURRRR
vette59jdwl
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I knew it!!! Congratulations!!!
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Congrats Ghost! Seems like not too long ago it was just some body panels ;D Nothing cooler than taking it for the first ride. Makes all that hard work pay off.
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Congratulations! Mine is still a dream or maybe a nightmare. :o It must feel good. :)
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Way to go Ghost, that first ride is always a great feeling, congratulation :)
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Sixball Just thought this might help----- Vette59jdwl
Hemmings Motor News / November, 2009 / 1911-'54 Chevrolet Parts Suppliers
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1911-'54 Chevrolet Parts Suppliers
1911-'54 Chevrolet Parts Suppliers
Feature Article from Hemmings Motor News
November, 2009 - Jim O'Clair
Back in May 2005, this column listed several Stovebolt Chevrolet suppliers for 1937-'54 Chevrolet cars where you could find restoration and repair items. This month we will be examining a few more suppliers specializing in Chevrolets of this era as well as some parts specialists you can look to for earlier Chevrolet parts, services and literature.
Although many of these advertisers are listed in the Chevrolet Parts 1911-'54 section of the magazine, others are listed in the "Books and Literature" and "Services Offered" sections, and in the "Interchangeable Parts" section under the "Mixed Make Parts" and "General Motors Parts" headings. There may be some repeats from the previous column in the interest of presenting a comprehensive list of advertisers for parts suppliers for this year range.
NORMAN PHILLIPS specializes in grilles and grille shells. He currently has grille assemblies for 1924 to mid-'50s Chevrolets. Chances are if there is a grille available for any pre-war car, Norm has it or knows where to find one.
Wiring harnesses for 1917 and newer Chevrolets are available from YNZ'S YESTERDAY'S PARTS. Each harness is made to factory specifications using period-correct lacquer-covered fabric wiring that matches the original harness in size and color. YNZ's can produce engine, headlamp, dash and taillamp harnesses from original manufacturer patterns. Coverage includes wiring for most pre-war cars and post-war cars into the '50s. They also stock a full range of six-volt bulbs for headlamp, interior and taillamps.
KC WOOD MANUFACTURING supplies structural wood for Chevrolet frames from 1926-'36. This includes both cars and trucks. Whether you need one piece or a complete set of frame pieces, KC Wood can manufacture these parts from the correct type of wood to meet even the most stringent of judging standards. Their pieces are guaranteed to fit your classic Chevrolet the first time.
Accessories such as fender skirts and sun visors can be purchased from JEFF'S CUSTOMS. They offer steel fender skirts for 1936-'76 Chevrolets, as well as continental kits for 1951 and up models, and windshield sun visors for 1935 and up Chevys.
ROCKY MOUNTAIN RELICS has an inventory of early Chevrolet body and mechanical parts available for models from the 1920s to the '50s. Fenders, frames, headlamp bars, rubbing boards, decklids, wheels and windshield frames for both cars and trucks are on hand from good donor vehicles. Moldings for 1930s Chevrolets cars are also in stock.
Restoration-quality flat glass is just one of the products offered by AUTO CITY CLASSICS. Flat glass can be ordered in clear, green-tinted or custom gray-tint and is cut from original patterns. In addition to windows and windshields for 1930 and newer Chevrolets and other American makes, Auto City sells reproduction gas tanks and sending units for 1941-'54 passenger cars and power brake changeover kits for 1948 and newer Chevrolet models.
EAST WEST AUTO PARTS has a large assortment of 1934 and newer Chevrolet donor cars, and can supply you with many used body and mechanical parts. East West also keeps many other GM parts vehicles for Cadillac, Buick, Olds and Pontiac collector-car enthusiasts.
Seat belts are all that ANDOVER RESTRAINTS does, and they have several styles of aftermarket lap belts and shoulder harness restraints to add new belts to your car or convert from lap belts to shoulder harness belts. Although early Chevrolets did not have seat belts as standard equipment, they are required in most states to pass vehicle inspections and can be retrofitted to all classic cars without affecting the originality when being judged at premier judging events.
STEELE RUBBER PRODUCTS offers a complete range of replacement rubber weatherstrips and bushings for early GM vehicles, including Chevrolet. Engine and transmission mounts, pedal pads, gas filler neck seals and shock bushings are all available, as are window and windshield weatherstrips and many other rubber grommets and seals.
Quality workmanship and limited lifetime warranty are two things you should look for when you need a power or manual steering gearbox. LARES MANUFACTURING has sold and serviced almost 200,000 gearboxes and power steering pumps, and maintains a large inventory of GM hydraulic steering parts in stock as well as offering an expert rebuilding service. They can fix units from 1930 right up to current production.
APPLE HYDRAULICS has an expert rebuilding service; they can re-sleeve your wheel and master cylinders to eliminate pitting that has accumulated over time, and the new sleeve surface will restore the cylinder to its original bore size for rebuilding that will last far longer than the original cylinder did. Apple can rebuild all types of lever-action shock absorbers as well, including those used on 1928-'48 Chevrolets.
Some original parts for pre-'54 Chevrolets might be hard to find in the aftermarket; however, there are quite a few early parts cars still parked in several salvage yards throughout the country. PARTS OF THE PAST is one of these locations. Currently on hand are many pre-'54 Chevrolet vehicles, including 1934 models, both Master and Standard, as well as 1935-'42 passenger cars, 1937-'40 pickups and 1946-'53 coupes, fastbacks and station wagons.
IDA'S CHEVYS deals specifically in older Chevrolet truck and car parts and has an extensive inventory of used and NORS parts for 1935-'55 Chevrolets. Engine, electrical, body and interior parts are listed on their website by year and in many cases by OE part number. New aftermarket items are also listed.
For 1916-'31 four-cylinder Chevys, you will find many restoration parts available from GARY WALLACE. His catalog of early Chevy parts contains over 900 new and rebuilt items for engine, drivetrain, suspension and electrical systems. Gary also has a large collection of good used parts for cars built during this time period. His catalog is free for the asking.
Mechanical parts for brake, ignition, engine and drivetrain systems on 1930 and newer Chevrolets can be found at KANTER AUTO PRODUCTS. Clutches, universal joints, tune-up parts, carburetor kits and rebuilt fuel pumps and water pumps are all listed in the catalog of replacement parts. Engine gaskets and many other engine parts are also listed along with many accessories, suspension and steering parts. All parts are quality-rebuilt units or brand new and carry a limited lifetime warranty.
PATRICK'S ANTIQUE CARS AND TRUCKS offers many replacement and high-performance engine parts for Chevrolet six-cylinder cars and trucks specializing in pre-1962 "Stovebolt" engines. Performance parts include Fenton headers and Isky camshafts. Patrick's also has six-cylinder engine chrome such as valve covers and beehive-style oil filters and ring and pinion kits for rebuilding rear differentials.
Manual transmission parts and flywheels for pre-war Chevrolets can be found at NORTHWEST TRANSMISSION PARTS. Internal gears, gasket kits, seals and bearings for both manual and early automatic transmissions are still in stock. Northwest can also help with your modern transmission parts needs. Automatic transmission filter kits and other parts are in stock for two-, three- and four-speed automatics and overdrive units.
DESERT VALLEY AUTO PARTS has a large inventory of Arizona rust-free body parts available, in addition to drivetrains and good used engine parts. They are the largest classic car salvage yard in the Southwest, with Chevrolet donor cars from 1935 to the late '80s.
Replacement wooden frame parts are available from CLASSIC WOOD. Wood rebuilding kits for 1925-'36 passenger cars are offered as well as complete or partial kits for 1928-'36 pickups. Classic Wood will also credit you for good, original frame pieces that can be used for patterns they do not yet have. Classic Wood has been producing quality Chevrolet wooden frame pieces for over 25 years.
KEN McGEE has a large selection of car and truck service manuals. His extensive library dates to as far back as 1897 and his Chevrolet inventory covers all years of production. One phone call can solve your lack of information problems when you have restoration difficulties and need to see how the factory did it. Ken McGee is the man to see.
For your early Chevrolet starting and charging system needs, check out ACE ALTERNATOR. Currently in stock are restored starters, generators, solenoids, voltage controls and starter foot switches. Some GM NOS electrical items are also available and their technical service advice is one of their greatest assets. Several of the Hemmings museum vehicles have electrical units that were restored by Ace Alternator.
TIM TYGART'S OBSOLETE CHEVY PARTS has new reproduction and original GM parts listed in their 1929-'57 passenger-car parts catalog. Additionally, Tygart's has a large inventory of GM NOS parts on hand. Several other catalogs are available, one for 1958-'75 cars and another for 1929-'72 pickups.
Concours-quality interior restoration parts for 1916-'55 Chevrolets are the specialty of HAMPTON COACH. OE duplicate upholstery, carpeting, headliners and door panel materials are just a few of the popular items they offer. Their catalog is on their website; however, you can request a free package of literature specific to your vehicle be mailed to you along with one of their free parts and accessories catalogs.
THE FILLING STATION specializes in new aftermarket parts for 1916-'64 Chevrolet passenger cars and 1918-'87 pickups. Over 16,000 part numbers are listed in their 380-page catalog, which you can receive on CD for free or is accessible on their website. They will also send you a copy of the catalog in print for a modest $7 fee. With the amount of information inside, it is well worth the cost to have on hand for future reference.
Check back in next month's Parts Locator column for some additional pre-1954 Chevrolet car and truck parts vendors who can help make your regular maintenance or frame-up restoration project that much easier.
Ace Alternator
239-821-6548
Andover Restraints
410-705-1503
Apple Hydraulics
800-882-7753
Auto City Classics
800-828-2212
Classic Wood
336-691-1344
Desert Valley Auto Parts
800-905-8024
East West Auto Parts
800-447-2886
Gary Wallace
314-293-1991
Hampton Coach
888-388-8726
Ida's Chevys
360-993-0460
Jeff's Customs
520-575-8479
Kanter Auto Products
800-526-1096
KC Wood Manufacturing
540-789-8300
Ken McGee
888-275-2666
Lares Manufacturing
800-555-0896
Norman Phillips
858-272-0583
Northwest Transmission Parts
800-327-1955
Parts of the Past
603-523-4524
Patrick's Antique Cars and Trucks
520-836-1117
Rocky Mountain Relics
970-686-2926
Steele Rubber Products
888-840-7833
The Filling Station
800-841-6622
Tim Tygart's Obsolete Chevy Parts
866-573-5812
YnZ's Yesterday's Parts
909-798-1498
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Morning guys.
I got the brake line fixed on the roadster, and put all the body panels back on the car, all except the hood and headlights. It's supposed to be nice today so I will get some pictures taken. Maybe I will be in the running for a month on the calender after all. the thought of it sure motivated me.
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Ghost It is a beautiful day here Just north of the New York border sun is shinning brightly and ther is only a few white puffy clouds in the sky,and it is over 60 degrees out . I think I will do just that Take the old girl out for a fall drive even though most of the leaves have fallen that would be a great idea and you and the misses have a great day.A great day to you all vette59jdwl
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A quick driveway picture of most of the body parts installed. I might have to raise up the front a bit? I took it around some blocks and nothing rubbed, but I have a feeling on some rough turns it might. HMMM. Maybe a 3/16th thick steel block on top of the leaf spring would be enough.
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Ghost28 looks cool to me vette59jdwl
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Ghost28 looks cool to me vette59jdwl
Thaks vette. I need to get some big cans headlights to fill that large void up front, and finish fitting and then painting the hood top.
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Great looking rod Ghost! You should be proud. Glad you got to take it for a spin before winter :D
Tom
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yes indeed looks awesome !! congrats , thats a huge milestone
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I like it!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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BEAUTIFUL
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Thanks guys. I did put a 1/2 inch block on top of the transverse spring, but it didn't raise up the front at all, so it looks like a set of smaller tread tires up front are gonna be needed to clear the lip of the fender. I moved the radiator shell to a lower and back position, I liked better which meant I had to trim the front hood edges, an easy job since there were no folded metal edges to deal with.
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ghost that's one of the problems with pre 1930 cars, the wheels and tires used were so tall its hard to drop-em and get the tire fender right. Might have to go 75 series tires, less fat tread width.
Other alternative is if you have reversed the spring eyes on main spring is to have them un-reversed, usually good for 1 1/2 to 2"
give it some thought. Oh ya , car is looking dynamite with hood mocked up.
mike 8)
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Ghost it is looking awsome what is your favourite colour or are you going to leave it silver vette59jdwl
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Ghost28 did you put shocks in the front on each side or not if not why not I was going over your early pictures and right where you placed the sway bar on the front would be a great place to mount a pair of shocks. In my case with the vette i wanted to pull the front end up fast and keep her up as long as possible so i went with a sett 90/10's.The shocks ride a little stiff at first but then you get use to them.Thought this might lift your front end a tad vette59jdwl
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Ghost it is looking awsome what is your favourite colour or are you going to leave it silver vette59jdwl
Believe Ghosts car is actually 2 tone silver and grey. Very difficult to see in pictures.
mike
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I haven't mounted any shocks yet but the sway bar mounting is not a bad idea, but I might try to find a good pair of knee action shocks for it. I did find some firestone blackwall tires through speedway that are about 100 bucks each. The tread width is about 4 1/2 inches about 2 inches narrower than what is on there, and the tire height is the same as what I have now. Should solve the problem.
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if YOU HAVE A STOCK BEAM AXLE OR A 40--54 CHEV 1/2 TON TRUCK BEAM YOU SHOULD LOOK INTO A SCHROEDER SWAY BAR AND ARMS.
NOT SURE IF YOU COULD USE 35 1/2" WIDE 7/8" SPLINED END . OR WHETHER YOU WOULD NEED A CUSTOM WIDTH. THEY DO SHOW UP ON EBAY ALONG WITH ARMS AND MOUNTING BRACKETS USUALLY THEY ARE USED FROM A DISBANDED NASCAR TEAM WHO COULD NOT GET A SPONSOR.
MY 35 CHEV COUPE WITH KUGEL IFS WITH 11/16 SWAY BAR AND REAR WITH SCHROEDER .850 SWAY BAR USED WITH JAG REAR REAR GOES AROUND CORNERS FLAT NO LEAN. ALL PARTS BOUGHT OFF EBAY FOR ABOUT 1/4 OF NEW COST
SEE " SHAZZBOTT A 1935 CHEVROLET ROADSTER" FILE IN THIS SAME SECTION AND ON PAGE 2 IT SHOWS THE BRACKETRY I MADE AND THE SWAY BAR FOR THE ROADSTER
MIKE 8)
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I think like you smaller tires on the front By the way did you keep the original hanger that went from frame rail to frame rail,That captured the spring.Yes the one pictured If so you could probably capture a 2 inch riser out of this and keep all your geometry the same as is vette59jdwl
Ps How much of a riser or how many inches do you have to raise the front of the frame without altering anything else
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Looking real good Ghost!
Yep, that front hit at 10:20am yesterday. Temps dropped from 53° to 42°in 30 mins. and the clouds rolled in. Supposed to get our first skiff of snow next tuesday.
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I think like you smaller tires on the front By the way did you keep the original hanger that went from frame rail to frame rail,That captured the spring.Yes the one pictured If so you could probably capture a 2 inch riser out of this and keep all your geometry the same as is vette59jdwl
Ps How much of a riser or how many inches do you have to raise the front of the frame without altering anything else
I think the cross bar you are seeing is the original 40 ford sway bar that came with the axle, if so I haven't mounted it up yet. I made and have added a 5/8th inch block on top of the transverse spring set up that brought the frame up and away from the suspension the same 5/8th height and that amount is about all I can go with out changing geometry, but it still sits to low for the tires that are on it, keep in mind the tires don't rub, but I am sure they will when I go around a corner a little faster than I should or get someone in the car with me. Right now I think the best way is to change the front tires. It really shouldn't change the way the car sits or looks.
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In fitting the old girl with a new set of bifocals I learned a valuable lesson about paint, that is don't spray clearcoat over shiney paint and expect it to stick. DUH. The problem I had was putting tape on the windshield frame to set the glass, when the tape came off it stripped the clearcoat in chunks. So now I have to carefully sand and recoat the frames. Thank God I have until spring to fix my screwups.
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OUCH! Well that bites, at least it's not the body.
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OK First off I think in the begining you said you had a dropped axle this might be your problem how much would you gain if you went with a conventional axle.
Next if you placed a set of heavy duty shocks outboard on both ends of the axles how much lean would this prevent,and would it cure your problem with leaning
And thirdly ( NO ) What i meant was in the first picture i sent behind the mock up where you had the axle under the car but not fastened you ,showed the original crossmember and then in a few later pics you should the lowered crossmember that was cut out to accepted the frame rails Maybe just maybe this is the point where you went just a tad to low. that and using a dropped axle was just to much what do you think. If you havent thrown out the original crossmember you could go back and utilize this cut down but not as low as the crossmember that you have in there now the one that captures the transverse spring. This will raise the frame in essence raising the body vette59jdwl
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Thanks Vette. There isn't any severe lean on corners, I built it with this ride height in mind, and the tires aren't rubbing at this time. so instead of rebuilding the front end to change the ride height, the new narrower tread design tires would be the easiest and cheapest way to keep the look I want.
Thanks again...John
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I hope you guys don't get bored with me posting another video. This one is a little longer.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xyz6BfN6U-k
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I hope you guys don't get bored with me posting another video. This one is a little longer.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xyz6BfN6U-k
That smile on your face tells it all..............
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I liked that video lookin cool How about a set of 14 inch 5 bolt wheels from an early chevy 11
vette59jdwl
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Damn another video of you driving you're roadster, I'm jealous, you look like you're having to much fun, Looking better all the time way to go Ghost Too cool
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OH EDNY you remember the day now don't you great felling vette59jdwl
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Not bored at all, very cool! That nailhead sounds great. I like the chirp of the tires ;D
Tom
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Not bored at all, very cool! That nailhead sounds great. I like the chirp of the tires ;D
Tom
Thanks guys. I want to go someplace where I can really roast the tires, and not get my neighbors or the local authorities mad at me. At least once to get it out of my system.
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I heard it bark and chirp. :o It looks and sounds good. The nailhead was a good choice. SMOKEM' ::)
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FANTASTIC!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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Hey Guys. Here are some pictures of the headlights I am gonna use on the Buick. The lens has print on the bottom edge stating TWIN BEAM with small writing labeled monogram below. The lens is flat and 10 inches across, the bucket is rioughly 7 inches deep, the mounting ring for the lens is about 3/4 inches tall, and the inside chrome dish has two spots for plugging in the bulbs, one in the center and the other above. could have been used for turn signals, or a high beam back in the day. Any ideas of what they might have come off of????
Oh yeah the mounting for the headlights was strange also. I have included a picture of it also
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You know that these are way way to knew for a 26 now don't you lol lol vette59jdwl
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You know that these are way way to knew for a 26 now don't you lol lol vette59jdwl
They might be to new. I found a set of lenses on Ebay that are the exact size of 9 15/16 with the look of these a few minutes ago. The seller was stating they are for a 26 to 27 willys night or auburn taxi what ever that means. They look like Buick roadster to me. HEHE
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I hope you get them at a great price vette59jdwl
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http://www.ebay.com/itm/Antique-1926-1927-Buick-Automotive-Car-Guide-Headlight-Hot-Rad-Rod-/321919645221?hash=item4af3e7f625:g:1YMAAOSwgQ9VjDgx&vxp=mt..Found these for you just that fast vette59jdwl
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I hope you get them at a great price vette59jdwl
Free is the best price I know.
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http://www.ebay.com/itm/VINTAGE-GUIDE-682-C-HEADLIGHTS-FLATHEAD-FORD-DODGE-MODEL-A-CHEVY-HOT-ROD-LAMPS-/381486814641?hash=item58d262d5b1:g:6TcAAOSwf-VWZyek&vxp=mtr
Here is another set complete great price vette59jdwl
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Oh yeah those guide headlights are real popular especially the c model with the turn signal on top, and the J model with out the turn signal is a good one, but they wont stay at 49.00 through th auction. Through OTB you can buy a new set for around $280.00
I wanted to put large lights on this old girl to highlight her frontal curves, but mostly to take up some of that space up there.
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I hear you man keep an eye on these you never know i have watched and watched you have to be fast and say a weeee prayer you never know vette59 jdwl good luck
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Oh yeah those guide headlights are real popular especially the c model with the turn signal on top, and the J model with out the turn signal is a good one, but they wont stay at 49.00 through th auction. Through OTB you can buy a new set for around $280.00
I wanted to put large lights on this old girl to highlight her frontal curves, but mostly to take up some of that space up there.
Your right GHOST you really need a large diameter head light up front to fill the space and too balance things out. I think any volcano shape headlight around 1928---1933 GM will do, in the 8 1/2 to 10" size. The bulb in the upper area is a parking light bulb.
mike lynch 8)
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The bulb in the upper area is a parking light bulb.
mike lynch 8)
[/quote]
Thanks Mike. I am gonna try to wire them up for turn signal and park lighting. I have all the wires ran and, it should work.
I did get all the buckets body worked yesterday, and ready for primer.
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Getting it ready for spring. I got my tack to finish up the dash board, conversion kit to put hallogens in those old buckets, new swan mirrors for both sides, and my speedo cable so I will know how fast I was going when and if I get a speeding ticket. HOPE NOT
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Ghost Sounds like you making progress :)
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Ghost Sounds like you making progress :)
Thanks. A little at a time gets the job done. I did get my mirrors mounted and I really like them for this car. I finally finished my dash by adding the last piece which was the tacometer. Have a look.
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Ghost.. Looks awesome....good job on the dash
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Ghost28 that is real clean looking nice job vette59jdwl
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Nice work Ghost! Where did you get the mirrors? I like the way they fit.
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Looks nice, Ghost. Those mirrors do fit the lines of the car.
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Nice work Ghost! Where did you get the mirrors? I like the way they fit.
Thanks guys. The mirrors are the swan mirrors from speedway out of there catalogue. I have used them on a couple of other builds because they stick out quite far, and have nice curves to them.
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I got the headlights painted the darker charcoal color today, and the halogens headlight bulbs and turn signals mounted in the reflectors. Gonna mount them up tomorrow.
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I got the headlights painted the darker charcoal color today, and the halogens headlight bulbs and turn signals mounted in the reflectors. Gonna mount them up tomorrow.
You're on a mission :D
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You're moving right along, I've gotten nothing done in the last two weeks. Have purchased several parts needed.
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You're moving right along, I've gotten nothing done in the last two weeks. Have purchased several parts needed.
I find when you buy a bunch of parts, the build and use of those parts goes really fast.
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You're moving right along, I've gotten nothing done in the last two weeks. Have purchased several parts needed.
I find when you buy a bunch of parts, the build and use of those parts goes really fast.
It's supose to be warm here this weekend and I'm planning on getting a lot done. :)
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Yeah the weather has been nice here, but it's about to change.
I did get the headlights mounted up I really like the look of them. I believe they came from a 20 something cadillac? The 4th picture is with the park lights on.
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cars like these are far too pretty to be on the road, too many people looking at them and not their cell phones
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John,
I can't believe how far this car has come in such a short time. I remember seeing it as a bunch of panels in your garage. You've done a great job and it looks great! You should be proud ;D
Tom
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cars like these are far too pretty to be on the road, too many people looking at them and not their cell phones
Now that's funny and scary. It will be driven alot.
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Wow it looks great,
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what a total masterpiece !! WOW
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Ghost28 BANG ON MAN
VETTE59JDWL
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Great looking car!
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You guys are too kind, but a pat on the back is what keeps all of us going...Thanks guys.
I am gonna try to get the hood top painted and installed on it, and the removable top covered and installed next.
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Ghost that Buick is really sharp! You are going to be rock n roll ready by early spring. Very nice job man!
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I got this rear view mirror from the speedway store, it's got a beveled edge glass and mounting almost like th original mirror parts that I had gotten with the Buick. It even fit the original holes in the windshield frame. Now I can see where I have been and maybe find my way home.
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Nice, that will give you a great view of that Hemi Truck should you decide to race him next time ;D
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Nice, that will give you a great view of that Hemi Truck should you decide to race him next time ;D
I like your thinking. 8) I wonder if I could have talked myself out of a ticket with chopper????????
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I put the top back on the roadster to check on fit, and also because I am gonna drive it over to the upholsterer either tomorrow or saturday to see about getting a nice black canvas cover sewn on it. Plus I keep losing my hat when running around.
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Ha Ha I went through about 5 hats and lost 4 before I found one that would stay on my big head without flying off. Didn't like the writing on it but it stayed on :)
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Ha Ha I went through about 5 hats and lost 4 before I found one that would stay on my big head without flying off. Didn't like the writing on it but it stayed on :)
Oh yeah I have my hat strap so tight it gives me a headache, but the alternative is sun burning my little bald head.
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Really sux to loose your favorite hat! ;D
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A good hat is hard to find, not to heavy,or to tight and with that Bowtie emblen ;)
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We may have to start a hat thread ::)
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Leave me out of this one The only had i ever wore in my life was my service had I am almost 72 and am not going to start now. vette59jdwl
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Leave me out of this one The only had i ever wore in my life was my service had I am almost 72 and am not going to start now. vette59jdwl
Very nice distinguished uniform. The only time I ever put my baseball hat on backwards was when we were in Salina Kansas running the eighth mile in a roadster, other than that My hat stays on straight.
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I only were my uniform on REMEMBRANCE DAY and the day i DIE vette59jdwl
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140 miles on the odometer as of today, and with every mile it seems to drives smoother and smoother. ;D ;D I am so ready for the hot rod season to begin.
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very pretty car GHOST
mike
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It's hard to get my tail end out of the seat these days, and have racked up over 500 miles on her. I did get all the exhaust leaks fixed around my home made headers but I have a serious headache giving resinating noise coming from the big pipes under the car, so I am gonna start finishing up the 2 1/2 inch exhaust out the back, I found the right bends for over the axle, and I am hoping it will look great and sound even better. I can't wait for you to see it Tom
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Wow 500 miles on her already :D That's what it's all about. Looking forward to checking it out and getting a ride!
Tom
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Nice work i like by the way Tome its a long way to go for a ride vette59jdwl
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Ghost it's funny how some have the drone and some louder exhaust doesn't. I've had roadster headers that didn't bother me (no drone) and then the worst I had was the factory side pipes on my '69 Vette. I went down to Brownsville Tx, it about drove me crazy. Came home and put full standard exhaust on. Dad had a '71 with Hooker full header Show Tubes, no drone at all(and actually sounded nice down the hiway).
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I finished the exhaust out the back of the roadster, and oh what a difference it's almost too quiet now, but I do like the sedated rumble from the 2 1/2 inch pipes out the back. I must be old cuz I like things quieter nowadays. I might even add some nice chrome tips to finish it off.
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Yep some chrome turn downs would finish it off
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Fish tails! ;D Looks good and I agree about volume. I thought I could get away with straight pipes all the way to the bumper on the '53. one trip to Reno ended that I bought glass packs on the way home and it's still a little too loud.
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On my 35 chev coupe with ZZ4 I bought a set of stainless specialties turbo tone mufflers. The headers are stainless full length from street and performance in Mena ark. When we first fired the car up, it was loud, turbo tone my ass !
Running a jag rear end , the exhaust stopped there, into a pair of megaphone tips.
First outing for the car a 30 minute cruise north. Thru downtown Whitby, it sounds like full on open headers of a race car sounds bouncing off the buildings. Its damn noisy at the way up to the cruise nite, driving me crazy actually. I was driving pretty slow on the limit getting the feel of the new car after the complete suspension overhaul.
On the way back, the car was quiet, no more ear splitting roar..........HUUUUUUUM. Turns out I had the car in 3rd gear on the 700R4 and car was just over 2000 RPM.
That's the difference low speeds low rpm lots of nose, get it up over 2000 rpm in 4th gear, its just putt putt putt out rear of exhaust at highway speeds.
Maybe you need to get the motor turning 2000 plus to outrun the sound waves ?????
mike lynch 8)
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Yep some chrome turn downs would finish it off
Plus they could save the paint?
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Mike, Maybe you are going faster than the speed of sound. :o It is mostly only annoying when I get on it. It really sounds good at 3000 rpm out on the highway but in 5th gear thats 90 mph and kind of scary in that old wreck.
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Looks good Ghost. Some chrome tips would finish it off.
Tom
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Mike, Maybe you are going faster than the speed of sound. :o It is mostly only annoying when I get on it. It really sounds good at 3000 rpm out on the highway but in 5th gear thats 90 mph and kind of scary in that old wreck.
NOPE....running 700R4 with 3.55 jag gears, 60 mph = 2200 rpm 4th. Perfect tail pipe sound level. Jump on the loud pedal and it barks loud out back. Have had coupe doing 120 + in long burst on highway, was very loud , no outrunning of sound waves.
mike 8)
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Ghost that should work out good. I left the option of running regular Vette headers (inside the frame) and retained the Vette crossmember (with the exhaust tunnels) so if It's to loud I can go straight out the back.
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Ghost that should work out good. I left the option of running regular Vette headers (inside the frame) and retained the Vette crossmember (with the exhaust tunnels) so if It's to loud I can go straight out the back.
I am loving it, and now I can here the wine from going throught the gears of the transmission. It sounds a bit like a M-22 muncie
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madmike3435 Have you had any trouble with the flex plate on the engine in front of the 700R-4.I have torn two of the centers out of two of the flex plates,Not any more i went with a flex plate from a 78 Nove 6 cylinder with a 350 tranny and hooked that 700R-4 up to that no problem and twice the flexplate look her up vette59jdwl
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I picked up some heavy 48 inch by 12 foot painters drop cloth at a yard sale for 3 bucks. I have started using it to mock up or make patterns for the rag top. I don't think it will be to bad. I did get some roadster wood corners for the rear bow from a friend, I then installed wood all the way across the bow, so I can at least have something to staple to. Trying to decide on the placement for the rear window, I think I will lower it about 1-1/4 inches from where the picture shows. Now on to the side profile patterns.
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I do like that Buick! Looks like you are getting it, good buy on that cloth. I believe your right, I think a little lower on the window. May have a bit better rear vision too.
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Great idea John! Great start to a cool top.
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I put some paint on the hood top there are a few wrinkles still, but it matches the rest of the car.
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Ghost28 The top looks good I never seen a write up of how you did the top please post some pictures right on man vette59jdwl
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Great start.Looking good. I really like that car. Interested in the top progress . Gotta do mine soon.
Gonna be in Aurora for a few days starting the 22nd of this month. If you have time maybe get together? Ron
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Great start.Looking good. I really like that car. Interested in the top progress . Gotta do mine soon.
Gonna be in Aurora for a few days starting the 22nd of this month. If you have time maybe get together? Ron
I always have time Ron. TFoch, or Tom is gonna be in town that friday also. We might be able to get together at a sonic car show that evening or during the weekend.
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The hood looks real nice on there Ghost! It's nice to see them hood lines on a Hotrod, definitly gives it a good look. ;)
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So tasteful and classy. I'd like to see more on the top build too.
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madmike3435 Have you had any trouble with the flex plate on the engine in front of the 700R-4.I have torn two of the centers out of two of the flex plates,Not any more i went with a flex plate from a 78 Nove 6 cylinder with a 350 tranny and hooked that 700R-4 up to that no problem and twice the flexplate look her up vette59jdwl
NOPE, PUSHING ABOUT 420 HP AND NO FLEXPLATE PROBLEMS, GET THEM FROM GM OVER THE COUNTER. I DID HAVE A PROBLEM WITH 2 OF THE 3 BOLTS IN THE CONVERTER COMING LOOSE AND ONE COMPLETELY OUT , AND CAUSING A BIG PROBLEM AND HAD TO REPLACE THE CONVERTER AND THE FLEX PLATE.
MIKE
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I also had a problem with tearing the centers out of the the new automatic flexplates . I switched to a six cylinder flexplates that had a 350 on the end of it , what a difference.. vette59jdwl
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Ah yes, the old drop cloth convertible top pattern............looks good John! :D
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So tasteful and classy. I'd like to see more on the top build too.
Thanks Guys. Are you wondering about the fabric, or the build of the framework for the top?
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THE WHOLE DANG SETUP vette59jdwl
How you started how you bought a sewing machine the material you purchased where you got your ideas from and how you started also how you procceded and the outcome thanks
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Great start.Looking good. I really like that car. Interested in the top progress . Gotta do mine soon.
Gonna be in Aurora for a few days starting the 22nd of this month. If you have time maybe get together? Ron
I always have time Ron. TFoch, or Tom is gonna be in town that friday also. We might be able to get together at a sonic car show that evening or during the weekend.
That would be cool to meet up with you and Ron! I'll be in Aurora on Friday night.
Tom
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So tasteful and classy. I'd like to see more on the top build too.
Thanks Guys. Are you wondering about the fabric, or the build of the framework for the top?
My roadster will need a top. I doubt if it will fold. I am trying to preserve as much trunk space as I can and intend to build a top that can fit in a small package stored there. I'd like to see all of what you did on your top.
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Hi guys. The new owner sent me a couple of pictures of my old 26 Buick after he did another ground up rebuild of it. He stated he is gonna trailor queen it for awhile, and then after he has shown it then start driving it again.
I like what he has done. He lowered the tail pan and created a nose chin to cover the frame along with a bunch of other changes
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Still a great looking car Ghost! Very tastefull changes, sometimes they aren't. You did a great job on it to start with! Thanks for posting the update on it, still a classy looking Hot Rod.🙂👍
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sweet, excellent choice of wheels and paint colour. Has a great stance, 4 spoke steering wheel looks great.
I have had my 35 std 3 w coupe since 1970, not sure I could see it go to another home .
mike
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Nice updates on the old Buick....labor of love....
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Nice 26 Buick! Don’t see those models to much!
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Great looking roadster John! Thanks for posting the updated pics.
How's that 55 coming?
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I really like the color combo. Not yours anymore, but you still have to be proud.
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Thanks guys. I didn't have a part in the redo, but I will pass on your kudos to the new owner.
And yes I am really proud that he left most of my design as is. He did make it his tho, and I like it.
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I liked it better before. It's nice but not as nice. :)
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I liked it better before. It's nice but not as nice. :)
Me to, I think it had more personality or attitude.
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It didn't need a loud paint job to get attention. I think two tone paint is for cars with tops and not some of them. of them.
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I loved it with the silver what the heck??
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You have to make it "your own".
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This might be "just me"...but I noticed that if I had to bend any round or square tubing...positioning the "seam" on the inside of the arc made the bend easier. The seam is the dark line on the tubing...that would be the thickest wall area...just seems to make sense keeping it inside the curve means it won't have to be stretched as compared to being on the outside circumference?
EDNY, The seam should be 90 deg to the former or arc. If it is on the inside it has to compress, on the outside it has to stretch. With square tube you usually have to "collapse" the inside anyway as the material has now where to go. (ie, it wont shrink. Cheers, Greg
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This might be "just me"...but I noticed that if I had to bend any round or square tubing...positioning the "seam" on the inside of the arc made the bend easier. The seam is the dark line on the tubing...that would be the thickest wall area...just seems to make sense keeping it inside the curve means it won't have to be stretched as compared to being on the outside circumference?
EDNY, The seam should be 90 deg to the former or arc. If it is on the inside it has to compress, on the outside it has to stretch. With square tube you usually have to "collapse" the inside anyway as the material has now where to go. (ie, it wont shrink. Cheers, Greg
After I made that post I was watching a car program on TV and they side to put the weld seam on the side(s) when forming.