Rusty Bowtie
General Category => Wood & Framing Section => Topic started by: EDNY on January 22, 2013, 07:49:46 PM
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Moving to welding up my chopped 33 (5W) coupe doors and removed all of the goofy wood the previous owner tried to install. Anyone have any pics of doors with metal framing?...Just to get an idea where to begin. Need to leave room for glass/tracking..but would like the latch hardware installed so I can "slam the doors shut"! ;D
thanks
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I used 1" square tubing around the perimeter of the door. I pie-cut and bent it slightly as needed to follow the contour of the door. Then I tacked it to the door frame and welded up my pie cuts. Solid as a rock and I'm not done yet. I will post some pictures tomorrow. Jim
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I have a buddy that is building a 34 standard 3 window coupe. I have a few pics of what he has done. the man is a genius. He has cut down his wing windows because he thought they were to large from the factory. I hope it helps.
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Thanks ...very helpfull...even the door gap shots are helpful.
Ed
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Ed...I don't know if you've seen these tech articles and they have nothing to do with you question on the doors but thought you might enjoy looking at these links
Moose
http://www.streetrodderweb.com/tech/0709sr_1933_chevy_coupe/viewall.html (http://www.streetrodderweb.com/tech/0709sr_1933_chevy_coupe/viewall.html)
http://www.streetrodderweb.com/tech/0710sr_choppin_a_chevy/ (http://www.streetrodderweb.com/tech/0710sr_choppin_a_chevy/)
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Moose
That's where I learned how to chop the rear window 1" on my 33.
Ed
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Moose
That's where I learned how to chop the rear window 1" on my 33.
Ed
HaHaHa......I figured you had most likely already snooped it out!!
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A few more pictures.
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Great pics.
All you guys that have done this before need to make some type of "tech" post on replacing wood for all us newbies. Maybe putting year and body style below each pic.
With all the experience on here I don't think it would take to long to have a pretty complete guide put together. I believe it might go a long way to making this "the site" to come to when searching on Chevy wood replacement.
Just a thought.
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Great pics.
All you guys that have done this before need to make some type of "tech" post on replacing wood for all us newbies. Maybe putting year and body style below each pic.
With all the experience on here I don't think it would take to long to have a pretty complete guide put together. I believe it might go a long way to making this "the site" to come to when searching on Chevy wood replacement.
Just a thought.
That's a great idea. I know I have documented at least three builds with pictures.
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Ghost
Thanks for the pic. I realized that I need to finish the door "chops" before framing the door itself.
Also...my door "outside arcs" were not aligning with the body BUT a few hits of my metal shrinker in the flat area of the jam where the locks bolt...got the doors looking great. Flat at the top and curved at the bottom.
Another problem I worked on today was raising the drivers door about 1/16" so the body lines (what ever they are called) were in line with cowl and qtr panel. The hinges aren't adjustable so I had to remove material from the hinge joint and placed stainless washers on the bottom to hold the door up...looks nice also.
Ed
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No I realize just how bad I am at taking pictures! Anyway, after I tacked the doors closed I chopped the top and doors as one unit. Then I dropped the top down and tacked it and the doors back together. Then I took the doors off, removed all the wood and replaced the wood around the perimeter of the door with 1" square tubing. I am going to add more metal to strengthen the door a little more, but it is very sturdy just as it is.
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Here's a few pictures of mine vent windows removed ,power window's original door latches and handles 34 chev 5 window
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Woodremover
Thanks for the pics...just starting that framing stage...this entire post is very helpful.
Ed
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Don't know what you guys are paying for 3/4" square tubing, but just bought (2) 24' lengths (.083) for $13.50 a length.
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I've been using a guy that owns a metal shop in the area. I tell him what I need, he cuts it up the way I need it, then he looks at it for a few seconds and says........"Ah, how's 20 bucks sound?" SOLD!!! I think my entire frame, subrame and floor cost me about $300.
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I've been using a guy that owns a metal shop in the area. I tell him what I need, he cuts it up the way I need it, then he looks at it for a few seconds and says........"Ah, how's 20 bucks sound?" SOLD!!! I think my entire frame, subrame and floor cost me about $300.
Darn.. at that price you should make up a couple of kits and sell um :-*
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Don't know what you guys are paying for 3/4" square tubing, but just bought (2) 24' lengths (.083) for $13.50 a length.
I just paid $14.00 for 16 guage 3/4 inch in 24 foot lengths. sounds like the prices are about the same or close.