Rusty Bowtie
Miscellaneous => Members Builds - Stocker -Streetrod - Ratrod - LowRider => Topic started by: 28chevyguy on January 18, 2015, 08:21:17 PM
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28 Roadster in progress .
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Looking great! These things take time but it's worth it when you get to take it for a ride. Any pics of the front?
Tom
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That's cleaning up nice, and as Tom said they take time.
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Yes they take time I've been on mine for three years this month. Finally getting it in primer.
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Looking good from the back, 28chevyguy. Let's see some more pics. Half the fun, to me, is doing the work. Of course the other half is driving ;D
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That rear shot shows great stance & attitude...nice job.
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Thanks for the motivation guys. the picture may be deceiving ...im really not sure about the rear stance... its high as hell - like 8 inches from top of tire to bottom of lip. springs have been reconditioned but i think they might settle down more??? used the front shackles in the rear since they were shorter , fronts have a drop from speedway, front axle not installed yet.
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I had to use some 2" blocks on my rear to get the height I needed.
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Thanks for the motivation guys. the picture may be deceiving ...im really not sure about the rear stance... its high as hell - like 8 inches from top of tire to bottom of lip. springs have been reconditioned but i think they might settle down more??? used the front shackles in the rear since they were shorter , fronts have a drop from speedway, front axle not installed yet.
Probably need to get the front ride height set up before worrying about the rear height?...I assume you have leaf springs in the back..if so, maybe your local spring shop can de-arc the springs to lower the ride height? I'm not up on de-arcing springs...maybe someone else can jump in.
Been thinking for my son's sedan..it might be worth the extra effort to just install a four link in the rear for height adjustment...since I need to change the rear axle anyway?
As 62131 mentioned...lowering blocks is another option that would work.
Ed
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Thanks for the motivation guys. the picture may be deceiving ...im really not sure about the rear stance... its high as hell - like 8 inches from top of tire to bottom of lip. springs have been reconditioned but i think they might settle down more??? used the front shackles in the rear since they were shorter , fronts have a drop from speedway, front axle not installed yet.
You need to have the spring eyes reversed on the rear spring front and rear. Will get car lower about 1 1/2". After that to get lower you will need to have a spring shop *** de-arch *** the springs . You might still employ the lowering blocks to get really low after the other stuff.
mike 8)
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looks like i will be dearching / reversing eyes if needed.
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I agree with Ed, get the front end where you want it first. I also did all of the things that Madmike suggested. First, I had the local spring shop make me a new set of springs, front and rear. Too high! I had them shorten the springs and take out some arc. Too high. I had the shop reverse the eyes. Too high. I added 3" lowering blocks to the rear. Perfect! I had the front end out about 5 times and the rear out 3 times before I was satisfied. One thing about lowering blocks, try to buy quality, beefy blocks. The first pair I installed were a thin-walled hollow block. One of the blocks cracked after a very short time. The second set were also hollow but much thicker. No problems with them so far.
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to effectively get the rear to sit right you basically have to have the rear spring totally de-arched until it is flat.
Now getting the front lower using a beam axle , we are talking a whole different animal. With the 28----thru 32 cars the fender shape in the front is fairly consistent. The stock drop on a 29--39 axle is about 4" and on a beam axle thats no where near enough to get your girlie "down in the weeds" .
I will post this picture of my 35 coupe when it had a beam axle. If your doing beam axle I will I will post more how I did its.
mike 8)
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yes please !
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You will need to acquire 1949--1953 chev passenger car spindles.
The stock 40--54 chev 1/2 ton axle isn't going to get you "down in the weeds".. You will need a MOR-DROP axle from California with a 3" drop over stock .
If you elect to go deeper with a 4 1/2 drop , be warned that's what is in the 35 coupe pictured with D70-15 tires about 24" tall. Depending on the tire you use and height, the 24" tall tire, you could not get over a coke can laying on its side . The taller the tire the more road axle clearance you have .
To clear your tie road steering bar you may have to space the bar lower using a 3/4" spherical rod end with 1--2" spacer.
The springs in the front can get the the reversed spring eye treatment and the de-arching also after you try the axle in the car and sit on the ground.
I AM NOT SURE if MOR_DROP is still in business ??? I sold my axle after running it on the street from 73---96 to a guy building a T coupe and he was going to use 1/4 eliptic front springs attached to it. He still has the axle and owes me $300 for it . I had it also narrowed to 44-46" width by heating and being bent in a forge by mor drop.
I picked up the stock 3"{ drop from mor drop at airport for friend bruce and installed his in my car over a couple of days with his permission. My problem was width at 49-50" c-c put the tire right under the fender edge. It had to be much narrower of the 33--35 chevys to work. bruces car was a 30 chevy and he installed his with no problem.
When I took car apart in 96 I bought a kugel IFS and installed that. Still sits that wicked low...see picture and ride height is adjustable with coil over shocks.
mike-------------- 8)
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http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=90824&highlight=reversing
This is good info on reversing your own springs. I did it on the rear springs of my 32. I used a friends press and wasn't to hard.
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thanks for the info !! awesome !
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There are truck spindles 1940--54 on axles and also 49--54 passenger car spindles , which are also same as corvette 1953--1962, yes gm used that front end passenger car under their vettes.
You most likey will have to mount the steering arm off the steering box facing upwards. You might have to heat and bend the steering arm on the spindles. You may have to bend the front steering cross tie rod arms or use spacers to get the tie rod bar above or below the front springs.
If that's so you will have to make a new tie rod bar using 1" SPS tube with 1/4" walls and 3/4" inch heim or spherical rod ends instead of the tie rods, because the spindle steering arms will have to be untapered and drilled out to 3/4" for GRADE 8 bolt that goes thru the arm.
Decisions on what to do can only be determined once the axle is mounted in place and see if there is possible interference with the fenders edge.
Disc brake kits for the front sprindles are available for the passenger car and much more difficult to find for the truck spindles. We had to modify the truck adaptors somehow ??????????......its was around 1973--74 it was done and I do not remember.
For the rear end, you need a rear end thats 56-57 " wide, so your tires sit inside the fenders, commonly 9" ford rears are that wide .
mike
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OK great info... will be keeping the 6 lug drums as well. who knows maybe i wont drop the axle.
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If you want your ride * down on the ground* and * in the weeds *, you really need to have a KUGEL or a HEIGT ........IFS . Its way simpler than all the beam axle stuff. That's why I took all the old stuff out.
plus with the adjustable coil over shocks, I can easily raise and lower the front end with a special spanner .
mike
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looks like back to the wood shed .
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altering the spring eyes by reversing them, de-arching and flattening the springs is only going to take you so far. Once its all done you will have to make your next decisions if its what you want height wise.
mike
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I agree . great advice thanks !
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had a friend stop by today, he will be helping me mount the column up , I plan on using a '55-'56 chevy truck manual column and gearbox . My buddy who is a great fabricator suggested making a C cut , notching the frame in to mount the column straight rather than with the taper of the frame, then fill solid, that way the gearbox will be flush to its mounting service rather than angled/ making a shim plate . This is pretty much the last big hurtle then onto more easy going stuff. Im using a 50's Axle with juice drums , anybody else doing anything similar?
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28 chevy guy Yes we are doing something similar.We are using Hydralic brakes on the 32 chevy front axle and using a 1984-250 chevy 6 cylinder engine with a 5 speed from a chevy S-10. We are also using a 1989 Dodge D-50 rear axle that bolts right into the 32 chevy all this retains the 6 bolt chevy bolt pattern.We are using a 1965 mustang master brake cylinder with two distribution blocks one for the front and one for the back that way it will have 4 seperate brake lines two seperate systems in one and the master brake cylinder will be in the trunk.So far i still have the 32 original steering column.
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thats a pretty slick set up !! wow original 32 column . does anyone know the deal with the steering splines being at an angle with these old tapered frames? it would be to my understanding you want the spline square with the car itself , not the taper. hence the C notch i was going to do. I have the 28 column but it scares the crap outta me so i wont be using it.
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Are the JOINTS in your front end loose or are you clips slidding there is a youtube on a 32 chevy truck some fellow up in the hills does a complete rebuild on a 32 chevy truck front end maybe worth the look shows how to rebuild and also the drag link.He has kept all the 32 chevy original front end under his rockabilly hotrod. go see vette59jdwl
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In cas your wondering (and i will take input on this one ) If i was going to change anything on this restomode I think it would be to go with electric steering and rack and pinion for a set up.
HAS ANYONE HAD ANY EXPERIENCE WITH ELECTRIC STEERING Thanks vette59jdwl
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thanks vette ! I know i should update the stuff but using 50's chevy front axle + 55 chevy column, im a sucker for that ancient look...
does anyone have any input on my steering situation... im starting to wonder if im overthinking... should i post pics to make it easier? Thanks !
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I think if you can get the steering column so the wheel is straight and not angled, I think it will be much more comfortable to drive. I didn't have to notch my frame as I'm using a rack but I used two U joints so I could keep the column square to me.
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28chevyguy I think old school most of the time.My buddy John Kennedy got his car home from the paint shop today Just in case anyone on here knows Jack/John Kennedy from lake st clair Ontario
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That's a real shiney green, and looks great. Rumble seat car huh?
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Ghost28 Yes i know it looks like John Deer Green but it is the original 1932 chevrolet apple green that was out in 1932 and yes this is a deluxe sports roadster with rumble seat and dual side mounts and a luggage wrack with trunk that you can see in the background that and 6 wire wheels vette59jdwl
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too the best of my knowledge the roadsters all came as 4 passenger...ie== rumble seat cars. Except for 1932 where you could order the car as a NON rumble seat called the "standard roadster".
This subject came up on the VCCA CHAT in the last year or so.
mike 8)
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I think we're hijacking this. The question 28chevyguy asked was about mounting his steering column. Ghost used a Vega box with an old style column. The front suspension is from a 40 Ford truck. I looked at his build thread on here and his column looks straight in the pictures. He may be able to give you some ideas.
Tom
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Thanks Tom. I think the only way to get his collumn to sit straight is to either modify the frame as suggested, or use a new 3/4 inch shaft with a couple of universal steering couplers to keep it all lined up. I believe the column he is using mounts direct to the 55 chevy gear box via a rag joint of sorts as a traditional style steering. Seems the best idea is to notch the frame for this application.
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great posts ! thanks a lot guys so im not overthinking for once. A little motivation from the pros and looks like I'll be all set...
you guys are all dead on . thank you.
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here is the column mocked up . fits around the engine pretty good.
(http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s179/turbograndprix/SAM_6062_zpskpu0cfex.jpg) (http://s152.photobucket.com/user/turbograndprix/media/SAM_6062_zpskpu0cfex.jpg.html)
(http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s179/turbograndprix/SAM_6061_zpsieyhobzo.jpg) (http://s152.photobucket.com/user/turbograndprix/media/SAM_6061_zpsieyhobzo.jpg.html)
(http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s179/turbograndprix/SAM_6063_zpskauxoz96.jpg) (http://s152.photobucket.com/user/turbograndprix/media/SAM_6063_zpskauxoz96.jpg.html)
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Looking good!
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It looks like it fits real good. Nice job
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The mock up looks great fits nice and tight :)
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Perfect fit!!
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That lined up real good!
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thanks guys! it seems to be coming together, just gotta keep my head in it... hopefully weather will break soon .
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swap meet scores ! 15" nardi steering wheel and a early 30's chevy tail light .. paid 40 for the wheel and 25 for the light id call that a deal . not sure what year its from id guess 33??
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i really wanted a correct 28 light but this could do for now
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Great deal on the tail light. Will fit 33, 34 and 35.
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thanks Tfoch !
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tail light pot and lens is from a 1933-34 master chv, or a 1933-1934--1935 standard Chevrolet
mike 8)
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tfoch + madmike thanks!
steering wheel is on , also been holdin onto a nos signal-stat
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The wheel looks really good, but that turn indicator is exceptional.
Does the end of the shift arm light up?
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thanks Ghost , here a few pics of the box part number is 800C-R6 , yes theres a bulb in the end
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Looking good!
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thanks . i like the wheel for functionality , not too crazy bout the hub i bought off the net... but it works. I found an old horn cap i flipped over to meet up with the bottom of the hub adapter to give it more of an old stream lined look but ... it is what it is
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thanks Ghost , here a few pics of the box part number is 800C-R6 , yes theres a bulb in the end
I wonder if you can still get something like that? It looks like a really old item.
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I see things that look like that all the time on ebay usa while searching for 34--35 chev parts. I do not look at them because I am using Cadillac columns. Lots of people dig the retro look and I would think these would be popular in todays street rod look.
trick is to find exactly the right search words to find a bunch of them........then go to completed items to see how much demand and what the price ranges are
mike..................... 8)
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went to ebay and typed in SIGNAL-STAT SIGFLARE and came up with 8 of them.
One seller even had the bulb screw in cover in green for $8.00
here is one complete BUT PACKAGE SAYS 6 VOLT
http://www.ebay.com/itm/rat-rod-custom-signal-stat-turn-signal-hot-rod-/201307217438?pt=Vintage_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2eded85e1e&vxp=mtr
mike 8)
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went to ebay and typed in SIGNAL-STAT SIGFLARE and came up with 8 of them.
One seller even had the bulb screw in cover in green for $8.00
here is one complete BUT PACKAGE SAYS 6 VOLT
http://www.ebay.com/itm/rat-rod-custom-signal-stat-turn-signal-hot-rod-/201307217438?pt=Vintage_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2eded85e1e&vxp=mtr
mike 8) I looked at them on Amazon they have 8 in stock now
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pretty sure you just swap out the 6v flasher for a 12v and should be good to go.
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pretty sure you just swap out the 6v flasher for a 12v and should be good to go.
Sounds easy enough to convert to 12v
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One of those might be a good look in my old Buick.
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got the 220 fired up , welded the steering notch finally. built a roll support in the cowl and notched the toe board brackets... will finally be able to cut up and weld the pedals where i need em and make the removable floor assembly . Also will be tieing in rumble seat hinges , sending rear springs back to get de-arched and have my front axle on the way to SID's for a 3 inch drop, spindle /kingpins and a drag link.
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Glad to hear you're making progress. Do you have any pics?
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thanks Tfoch ! im working on getting the progress photo worthy :D garage is a mess, too many other projects have forced their way around the 28!
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cowl is primered , scored original cowl lights in great shape off ebay 50 bucks !!! wood in the doors was in great shape so i left it and glued up the joints , they're very solid now , no flexing. Still working out the zillion dings in the quarters ::) . also i abandoned the rumble seat idea and am going with a trunk , still figuring out what style hinges to go with , im thinking original -ish looking paino hinge or something external and simple .
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I'm jealous, I'd love to get a set of cowl lights for my 33. Nice score. The dings give it character!
Tom
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i'll help keep an eye out for ya, i didnt think id find half the stuff i have now for this car . . yes but the dings add just a little too much character for my taste. 8) i just dont want to be one of them guys jumpin for the mud right away.... "dont worry it'll be perrrfect !!!"
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TFosh for cowl lights for your 33 try Glen C Rarick LaFargeville Ny 13656 phone number after supper 315 658 2661 vette59jdwl
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i'll help keep an eye out for ya, i didnt think id find half the stuff i have now for this car . . yes but the dings add just a little too much character for my taste. 8) i just dont want to be one of them guys jumpin for the mud right away.... "dont worry it'll be perrrfect !!!"
A few dings, a dolly + body hammer+ time (almost forgot the beer)= smooth ;D
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TFosh for cowl lights for your 33 try Glen C Rarick LaFargeville Ny 13656 phone number after supper 315 658 2661 vette59jdwl
I'm in no hurry. If I came across a pair for the right price I'd grab them but I still have a lot to finish on the car.
Tom
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driver door sanded down , just slapped on some napa etching primer . got the rear upper filler panel bent up .
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Does you car have inside door handles?
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sorta , theres a lever that comes up outta the latch mechanism
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The reason I ask is. I have a pair of these from a 28 sedan
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wont work for this car , they are very nice though thanks for the offer ghost
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I think those pieces go either under the inside door handles or under the outside doorhandles.There is some nice etching on those.Mine on the 32 are just old plain jane vette59jdwl
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Ghost28 They would look real cool on the outside under my outside door handles vette59jdwl
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Ghost28 They would look real cool on the outside under my outside door handles vette59jdwl
They would look good, but they have upholstery barbs on them to grab material. I suppose they could be trimmed off, and made to work. I just have the pair.
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Almost had her up on all 4 . need 2 longer U-bolts to make up for the caster shims . dang . anyone know where to get ?
update got em on the way thanks anyway
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Any updates?
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no updates other than got a new 305 w/ 45k and plan on picking up these old 16" wheels from a member... been busy working on my other chevys tho so i guess im not slackin too bad
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just got back home , picked up 16" wheels / rings / caps from our newer member E-Rod , thank you sir.
Finally raised the scrub line a bit, this I beam is LOW .... too low for the 15s i had.
yes i know the rear is sky scrapin... dont worry im going to fix
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Looking good. I'm liking the old style approach. I went back through this thread and did not see what you ended up doing to get the ride height on the front. I'm ;poking at some of the same on my '26 but fender gap won't be an issue.
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thanks sixball , I actually just figured out , I ordered a 3" drop from SIDS dropped axles, im almost postive he sent me a 4" drop by accident... It was loaded with the modified spindles... ect . These 41-55 truck axles supposedly have 4 1/4 drop factory, plus 4" more , YIKES so i guess its got total 8 1/4" drop . and one leaf spring has been flipped to the top .
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so this gets more interested , spring pad to top of KP boss is 10 inches... what the ??? Does not equate.
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I'm jealous, I'd love to get a set of cowl lights for my 33. Nice score. The dings give it character!
Tom
Not sure if I&I repo has had any more reproduced for the 32--35 chevy cowl lights.
The 33 actually had a special retainer ring that has a POINT embossed in it , just like your front fenders.
I got my pointed trim retainer rings from ........DICK MOFFITT'S in springfield ohio about $25 each plated.
1-937-325-7861
email==== dickmoffittschevy@yahoo.com
They might have the rest of the parts, glass diamond lens, mounting arm, base and the shell.
I have all the parts to make a pair. Usually found them on ebay under 1932 Chevrolet parts.
mike lynch 8)
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looks like i will be dearching / reversing eyes if needed.
YES.....de arch springs until they are flat, reverse the rear spring eyes front and back to get about 1 1/2" drop. You don't need 9--10 springs back there, take a couple out.
install springs and see where it sits, then get the drops you need.
28--29" tall tire sitting inside rear fender would be right size.
Now about the dropped front axle.........4" drop over stock is going to put you in down in the weeds and in da dirt. Most likely your axle is sitting below the scrub line and looks insane. Probably cannot get over a beer or pepsi can lying on its side.
Well from 1975 to 1990 my 35 chev coupe ran that same setup, never ever hit a thing, you don't drive on heavily truck traveled roads that are worn down and leave a high area in the middle. You put one side of wheels on the high spot and same on other side of the ruts and run on the crest.
see if I can find a picture of it and post.
When I had MOR DROP in calif make mine in 1974 ? I had him bend it so that the total width was 44" king pin to king pin rather than the 50 stock. A 34-35 chev fender rolls way over the side and you could not turn the wheels/tires to turn the car.
mike lynch............... 8)
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I did the same as madmike on my 27 coupe. I did an additional mod. On the front spring rear hanger I removed the original mount and made a "spud" to move center of the hole up halfway into the frame. This does change your caster but can be regained with a very small wedge on the axle. Gained a little .
I also had a MorDrop and drove this car 106,000 and as mad mike said never had an issue. BUT in deep snow, you are now a snowplow. Ron
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OK I measured wrong , I went from spring pad to TOP of King pin boss, I should have measured to the spindle center line...
So the true drop came to 7 1/4" which makes sense, 4 1/4 stock + 3" . Looks like everything will work out after all.
Also yes I flipped one leaf and also got slightly shorter shackles. I did add a caster shim . Now to lower the rear down .
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Do you have pictures of the springs and axle?
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picture I posted of my 35 coupe in da weeds is now running a kugel IFS. Could not find the old pictures of the coupe with the beam axle , but it sat that low.
The guy I sold the axle too still has it, was going to use it on a 27 ford coupe with quarter elliptical springs and changed mind.
below is link to page for center hood hinge
http://www.rootlieb.com/hood-hardware.html
mike 8)
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so I had a bunch of projects jump in front of this one.... Im finally getting my butt back in gear...
I need some help from this forum … Im going to post some updates and questions that can hopefully lead me where I need to be.
I will make a list of ALL the parts actually on the car and what it needs .
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We're here for you :D
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All ears.....and eyes
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Let's see what you got or need
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Chevy roadsters are my favorite! Maybe you'll inspire me.
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Dropped axle from syd " 3" 54" Axle / Spindles/ arms "
Front springs are rebuilt and have dropped spindles from speedway, have 6 degree caster shims... may be too much have to check the actual angle it is at now . Might need softer shims OR put the original shackles back on . Might be too much caster again, not sure yet.
1955 (supposedly) 1/2 ton truck column, frame notched to keep column straight.
Question being , the pitman has a flat groove and only goes on one way, wondering what I need to do for the DRAG LINK.
Running a late model 305 with world class T5 , motor mounts and trans mount are done .
Have pedal assembly installed/ welded for hydraulic clutch / brakes , this should be straight forward, pedals are chopped and clamped to find the right position ... I pretty much have this situation under control.
I want to run DISC brakes in the front but retain the 6 lug, I will need conversion kit for 50's Chevy Truck ... again this should be straight forward , going to kick the wheels out even more but I'm going to have to accept what ever turns out at this point.
Rear end is 70's Truck 3.55 posi . Probably needs axle clips replaced , a little in out play... should be straight forward
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not sure if you can buy the right drag pitman arm, but what people do is to cut everything away except the SPLINED AREA. Make a new pitman arm , align to right location and mark with soap stone and fit the cut out part , over the cast part , where the spline is. 1/4" or 3/8 plate would be ideal. Use high powered arc welder with nickel silver rod.
I think 54" wide axle is too wide, 49--50" is more normal. You can get disc brake kits for 49--54 passenger car spindles, also corvette 53--62 . TOO wide a front end looks funny and awkward .
1960--70's builds like yours used mustang steering box mounted upside down so pitman arm was outside the frame. Box mounted to a plate that either welded to frame or bolted. Pete and Jakes pioneered that system.
Drag link arm box to front wheel........1" steel pipe , 1/4" wall , with 1/2" hole in it to drill out and tap for a spherical rod end . Use larger washer to cover the spherical rod end ball section. Same also used on steering arm front wheel. Preferred rod end size is 5/8 hole and thread.
mike lynch
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such great information Madmike , interpreting every single thing you say is a task as im not a pro scratch rod builder as a lot of you guys here
so with the column / steering wheel centered ( the best I can that is ) Is it ok if the pitman arm is Not straight up and down? Looking at everything from the side of the car , the pitman arm is about 5 oclock .
I need to get some steering action first things first. Pedals are getting ironed out as we speak so that's a PLUS .
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steering arm should be straight up and down, that way you have same turning radius going left or right.
Measure straight wheel over to the frame to see how far it turns then do other side . Now turn the wheel maximum and see what you get for each side. Then make a decision as to whether you are okay with it or want to fix it ?
Non of us here are pro-builders that I am aware of, we are just like you with more experience because we have done it before.
mike lynch
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still lots to do … I always come back here to re- read the advice that has been givin… This thread is like a diary for the car …
well anyway , got the motor running today... just had to hear it run , put new oil and filter on , tossed on edelbrock carb , dropped in an old HEI sitting around , wired up a ignition switch with key . I know I got lots left to do but I needed the motivation.
I always have cars jumping in front of this one... 68 camaro out of no where, I also have a turbo Pontiac FWD that I drag race , built it about 10-12 years ago . currently cam is broken clean in half … this is after years of racing and abuse. I need one week solid with this car then I can jump back on the roadster.
Thanks again everyone for all the help , Madmike for all the suspsension /steering advice , also Tom thanks for that Alt blue print !!
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Keep at it! You'll get it done ;D How about a picture of your Pontiac drag car.
Tom