Rusty Bowtie
Miscellaneous => Members Builds - Stocker -Streetrod - Ratrod - LowRider => Topic started by: 62131 on October 22, 2014, 09:38:06 PM
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I'm far enough along thought I would start a build thread and let you all see where I started and where I'm at after 22 months of working a few hours a week and some weekends. These are pictures of what my car looked like when I bought it. The guy I got it from did a lot of work replacing most of the wood with steel. He had already did the structure and floor pan and made metal interior panel out of steel.
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Here's a few more.
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Here's some pictures of the interior panels he made.
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As you can see the car was pretty rotten around the bottom. I have replaced all those panels with new panels. Removed and discarded the 305 engine that he had in it, Keep the th350 transmission and had it rebuilt.
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Here is frame after I removed the body and the IFS he had put in. I must say it was a mess. I looked for a replacement frame but didn't have any luck finding one close enough to go get.
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Here are a few pictures me putting in my MII cross member and boxing the frame.
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Here it is almost ready for paint.
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I coated the frame with two coats of rust bullet and two coats of black top coat.
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I set the engine and transmission in and put in my tubular cross member.
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Putting the body back on the frame.
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Looking good...A lot of work but it will pay off at the end....Keep photos coming
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Nice work! Glad to see you started this thread. Looking forward to watching the progress.
Tom
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Rock on man. Nice work
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Very nice, I like they way you put the front suspension in.
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It is looking real good. Is the booster a single or dual it looks like it belongs there.I am gonna do my buick the same way.
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Its a single, I'm thinking of changing it to a 8" double chrome unit. I'm thinking about only running the top part of my hood as the hinges are bad on the right side until I can find a better one.
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If the hinges are bad is there any chance of cutting the hinges out and replacing with stainless steel hinges for the sides.just a thought has any one tried this
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I haven't looked at it that close, but I want to say it is part of the hood. Like they rolled the loop of the hinge in the sheet metal I need to look closer, been putting on fenders and running boards, and making brackets to support my grille shell.
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Its a single, I'm thinking of changing it to a 8" double chrome unit. I'm thinking about only running the top part of my hood as the hinges are bad on the right side until I can find a better one.
Keep looking for a better one, side panels will always line up with stock top panels.
mike
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I've looked at it closer and the hinges are part of the sheet metal, what I,m thinking about doing is cutting the side panels off and fixing them so that they are semi permanent and only be able to raise the top two sections of the hood.
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I have been working on the front splash apron trying to get it to fit, I'm going to have to modify it to clear the rack & pinion. I will post pictures this weekend after I get all the fiberglass laid.
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I've looked at it closer and the hinges are part of the sheet metal, what I,m thinking about doing is cutting the side panels off and fixing them so that they are semi permanent and only be able to raise the top two sections of the hood.
A fix similar to what vette59jdwl suggested is to cut the hinge out and tack in piano hinge, you can get them as long as you need them and they appear solid.
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I don't believe a piano hinge will work after it is tacked into place it will not be able to be folded back on it self like the original hinge would.
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Oh well, it sounded like a good idea in my mind ::)
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Checked out your build. Good job! Keep the photos coming.
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Here's how I modified my fiberglass apron to fit over my rack & pinion. Still need to remove and add more glass for strength.
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Nice work, looks like you got it figured out.
Tom
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Looks totally stock...Great job!!!
Moose
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That really looks nice. The only one who will know it was modified is you............and us ::)
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Great job! I love working glass, all except for the itch when you put on a jacket, and thebig mess it leaves on the floor. Looks like your getting close to a driver.
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It's closer now than when I bought it. I'm just fitting up all the pieces then I get to take it apart again and primmer all the pieces and put it back together again. While it's apart I would like to take a couple inches out of the top. Wish I had a little more information about chopping a top.
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Personally chopping a top is reducing the amount of people who maybe interested in your car down the road when everything comes up for sale.
Being tall 6--3" , I find most chops too hard to get in and out of. Even my stock top 35 coupe I can feel top of my skull rubbing on the headliner, unless I slink in the seat a little.
mike................... 8)
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Chopper 526 I let my 32 sit to long and when i went to get the hood off no one was around so i attempted it myself and i broke the hood first thing.I should have coated it with something.I didn't. Now what i thought was to get something similar to a piano hinge but in stainless steel i think most hoods are around 500 to 750 bucks wayner
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Vette59jdwl, I think it could work if the hinge rotates basically 360 degrees. I think you have to tig weld it to carbon steel, but I could be wrong about that :-\
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As you can see in some of the pictures I posted I have separated my hood sides from the center section, After giving it thought I believe I'm going to remove all hinge loops and make the sides removable panels.
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I've been putting fiber glass reinforcement on the inside of my splash apron
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Wish I had a little more information about chopping a top.
62131, you are lucky on your body style to chop. It's a very simple drop (exterior sheet metal wise). It would be a straight drop, not involving roof lengthing. Doors just a straight cut, rear a straight cut. Maybe a simple slice on the front portion of the A pillar. Problem with Chevy is the inner structure. If wood is still in any of the areas to be cut or if you have already replaced with steel in these area's. It's best to do a chop before replacing structure.
Sorry, I was thinking about the previous body style, I thought your frt door edge was straight up and down. May be a bit more involved up front.
I had to make that decision on my coupe early before I put the steel structure in. My '35 3-w would have required top and upper door(window frame) lengthening (doner parts) if I were running fenders I probably have chopped mine 2". Yours can be done, but a real pain at this point. It would look good either way, good luck what ever you decide.
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I chopped my '32 5 window Chevy. I was very apprehensive. No, correction, I was SCARED!! But it worked out pretty well and was easier than I thought. I tack welded the doors closed all the way around, that way I could chop the roof and the doors at the sme time. Then I tacked braces inside the car to keep it from springing open when the roof came off. I used 3" masking tape and ran it around the roof where I thought was the best places to cut. I got out my sawzall and angle grinder, said a little prayer, and away I went. I made the top cut first and took the roof off, door frame tops and all, and set it aside. Then I made the lower cuts. I took what little wood was left in the car out after I chopped the top, that way it gave a little more stability to the body when I did the chop. I set the top back on the body and tacked everything in place, including the doors. Lining up the A pillar wasn't hard because the angle is negligable, and with just a little hammer and dolly work it fit perfect.
Anyway, I am no welder, and I certainly don't have the talent that most of you guys here have, but if you are thinking about chopping your car, I say GO FOR IT!
All that being said, it may just be a little tougher chopping a sedan ::)
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Dad showed me a simple way to look for problems on a chop. He would lay a plumb line level down the side (where the cut line would be), then used masking tape to mark the area to be cut out. Then he would take a picture of the vehicle (develop the film, get double prints, before scanners and digital cams) cut the picture at the upper and lower sides of the tape line, line the door edges back up, then tape it back together. It would let you see how much it would be off and where. Then you could cut upper pic to line up, using second pic behind to fill in additional fill areas. Whole lot easier to do with todays computer, scanner printers.
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Here's a few pic's of my chop.
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Nice job, ain't it fun.
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If we didn't think it was fun we wouldn't do it. :-* :) :)
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After getting the fenders back on, I've been thinking about what size rims and tires to use. I would like to keep the tires under the fenders but yet fill the opening.
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I went with 15 inch rims on mine as I like a taller tire. I have 205-60-15 on the front and 255-70-15 on the rear. Definitely fills the fenders and has the stance I like.
Tom
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Tfoch are you running 2" dropped spindles? What width rims are you running?
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I'm running a TCI coil over front end. The front rims are 6" and the rear are 8" The rear suspension is a Posie's leaf spring.
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In the front I have 215/60-14". The rear I put 265/75-15" That was about the biggest tire I could find without going to an off-road tread. It fills the wheelwell and has the look I want.
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After searching for 15" tires there's not to many manufactures that produce them. I've been looking at Nitto's, master craft. I don't want to spend a lot on them as I don't think I will wear them out before they get to old to run.
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After searching for 15" tires there's not to many manufactures that produce them. I've been looking at Nitto's, master craft. I don't want to spend a lot on them as I don't think I will wear them out before they get to old to run.
Mine are BF Goodrich T/A Radials. The best way I found to search was www.tirerack.com
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I've also had good luck finding 15" tires from " discounttiresdirect.com" they have reallygreat deals from time to time on pairs of Cooper Cobras.
My buddy is ordering mine monday. Cooper Cobra-rwl Front 235/60 r15, $202 for the pair (free ship) rear 295/50 r15, $292 for the pair (free ship) Discount tire.
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Finished up the front apron today, it's now ready for primer. I will post some pictures tomorrow. Started with the front fender, they were purchased from Superior Glass Works and was a 1/4 wider than the running boards were they bolt together. Had to cut a wedge out and pull them in and lay the fiberglass back in.
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62131, a quarter inch doesn't sound too bad when dealing with fiberglass, you know how some of those parts can be WAY off! I'll bet they turned out great. Hopefully you won't have the same problem with the rears.
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The rears came from Speedway, in my opinion they are a lot better quality than Superior the fit is a lot better.
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I heard Speedway had some good glass parts but I got a gas tank cover from them and it was pretty bad. It lacked detail, wasn't symmetric and was flimsy. I kept it but had to do a lot of work to it.
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I purchased the rear fenders and they are a lot thicker, detail is correct and fit very well, they told me that they make all their glass parts in house.
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Speedway started remolding a lot of glass parts about 6-7 yrs ago. I talked my buddy Lonnie into going glass on his '32 F p.u. the rears where made with the new molds and were excellent. The fronts were thin and not quite right, he called and talked with the man doing the remolding. He said send them back and he would call us when he had the new molds done, but he had to jump onto new ones for T or A, so it would be awhile. He did call back and told us we would now be happy, but Lonnie ran out of money by then.
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I like the quality of my rear fenders over the Superior Glass front ones I have, no comparison.
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Speedway started remolding a lot of glass parts about 6-7 yrs ago. I talked my buddy Lonnie into going glass on his '32 F p.u. the rears where made with the new molds and were excellent. The fronts were thin and not quite right, he called and talked with the man doing the remolding. He said send them back and he would call us when he had the new molds done, but he had to jump onto new ones for T or A, so it would be awhile. He did call back and told us we would now be happy, but Lonnie ran out of money by then.
I think that's what happened to me, it was a worn out mold. Also, I think about 6 months or a year ago they took a lot of their non Ford fiberglass parts out of the catalog, then 2 catalogs later they were back in.
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I'll be able to get back out in the garage this afternoon it's warmed back up some. I plan on doing a little welding and finishing up the front fenders. I will post some pictures of the fenders a little later.
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On my way out of town for the Thanksgiving holiday I drop my hood, radiator shell, braces and some other pieces off at the sand blaster to be cleaned up. Hopefully they will be done Monday.
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Picked up my rear tires this afternoon set them up on the studs no lug nuts. Oh I have a set but the wrong thread and pitch. It's to cold to work anyway.
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Shoot us a picture when you get those puppies squared away.
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I have several pictures I need to post
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Here's a couple pictures of the wheels and tires I put on. :)
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Here's couple more. Should of taken some of the rear, I'll get those pictures next week.
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Nice wheels, I always liked those. Nostalgic looking.
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Had those already figured I would just use them instead of the aluminum slots I got for it.
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I like it, it's amazing what wheels will do for a car. Lets you see the future of what it will look like. Nice choice.
Tom
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Here's a couple pictures of the head lights I'm planning on running, I cleaned on my garage today sorting thru parts found some I didn't know I had. Pushed the car just outside of the door, it hasn't seen any sunshine in three years.
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Had those already figured I would just use them instead of the aluminum slots I got for it.
Definitely better than slots....I think.
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nobody commented on the front splash apron :) you can't really tell that it's been extended 1-1/2" to clear the rack.
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nobody commented on the front splash apron >:( you can't really tell that it's been extended 1-1/2" to clear the rack.
Too busy checking out the wheels. Nice work Goose!
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I'm not Goose Moose is Goose in Hoppers mind.
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It's a little hard to see in the pictures, but I like what I see.
In Hopper's mind Moose may be Goose, but you are Goose not Moose in TF*c*'s mind.
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I believe you've got it now
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I thought you were going to call me TFord! That would have pissed me off!
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That's Chopper (Grasshopper) who calls people names and messes with a mans handle :o :o
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No way, Tom, that's definitely crossing the line!!!!
62131, I may call you names, but I would never mess with another man's handle.
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You wouldn't call a person a name on purpose you might get us confused, but you might want to go back and read a few of your comment's on previous threads :o How soon we forget
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Awww quit picking on chopper. were better than that. ???
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I'm not picking at him, I only responded to his comment.
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62131, I know, it's because I said "handle" and right away your mind goes to the gutter and you thought "HANDLE".
Thanks Goose, I mean Moose, I mean Ghost! ;)
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touché Chopper
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Put some primer on the right front fender, frame apron and running board today,
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Thought I might post something here to keep my build thread alive. Been putting the body in epoxy primer. Sanded it down to bare metal fixed a few more spots I found while sanding. Getting ready to add a couple of coats of high build primer so that I can start block sanding.
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That looks great. I sure do like it when they start to get smooth.
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That looks good. Been a long time since you posted a picture.
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I know Chopper, I forget to take my phone to the garage and when I do I just save them up and post them all at once.
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Here's some pictures of it in gray primer, I put this on a couple of days after the epoxy primer went on. That way I got a chemical bond between the two paints instead of scuffing the epoxy primer to get the gray high build to stick.
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Looks great! Glad to see the pictures of your progress.
Tom
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Nice..wish I was in that stage!
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You and me both Ed!
62131 that's looking smooth. ;)
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62131...looking good ..trying to get to that stage myself, but it's been a heck of a job....
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I thought I might post these as this is what I did a couple nights ago. This is my second coat of gray high build primer after blocking the first coat. Thought I might just put it together and drive it in primer to work out any problems it might have.
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That is looking really nice and smooth. You got to be excited about your progress. 8)
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Attended the Street Rod Nationals in Knoxville week before last and picked up a chrome brake booster and master cylinder, can't wait to get it installed to see how its going to look
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Here's a few pictures of the assembly. just trying to bring everything up to date here,
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Here's a few more
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Look'n good there. ;)
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LOOKING REALLY GOOD....NICE TO SEE SOMETHING COME TOGETHER.....CONTINUE THE GOOD WORK
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I like what I see..Brings back memories..Keep um coming!!!
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I finally came up with the ideal how to do my hood. The hinge on the passenger side was rusted away so I cut the remainder of the loops off on both the driver and passenger side. Bent a piece of metal to weld to the top of the side panels. Took some 3/4" tubing milled down some 5/8" key stock so that it would slide thru the tubing. Then I cut the tubing to length, milled a 1" long slot in one end, inserted the key stock in the tubing drilled a tapped a hole in the center of the key stock and held it in place with a button head screw. Made bracket to attach the sq. tubing to the firewall and welded a bracket to the key stock and attached that to the grill shell. Did this for both top and bottom on both sides. Now I can loosen the screws and adjust the gap on my hood panels by moving my grill shell.
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Here's a few more. I made adjustable brackets for the bottom so that I can move the hood on and out. I'll have toke some pictures of those.
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Bracing the roof. Made some 14ga. angles and attached them to the roof panel with seam sealer for movement, going to tack weld to bracing.
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Here's a few more. I made adjustable brackets for the bottom so that I can move the hood on and out. I'll have toke some pictures of those.
Going to follow this post when you get pics ..Thanks for posting
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62131 I have the same problem, I am not sure what to do with mine I was thinking of stainless steel piano hinge after I cut out all the old stuff that is rusted tight lol I Like your idea the wife and I are still wandering we are ion Bad River Wisconsin vette59jdwl
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vette59jdwl there's a company that I call on that makes a hinge real similar to the original, they use it in the product they manufacture, I'm sure they will let me have a few sets if your interested if you decide to replace it. I had already made my mind up that I wasn't going to run the side panels until the boss showed up out in the garage gave me her opinion, so I came up with this ideal and this way we both get what we want., ;D ;D ;D
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Here's what I came up with for the hood and how I'm going to make the sides removable.
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Here's a few more with it assembled
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Here's how I mounted my radiator in the shell.
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That's some nice clean fabrication all around. How far off the ground is the bottom of your battery box?
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Very nice work ;D
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That's some nice clean fabrication all around. How far off the ground is the bottom of your battery box?
I really haven't measured but I do know it's well above the scrub line
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What radiator is in your '32 ?? Following your hood build... I like the concept of having removable sides... Good work....
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That's some nice clean fabrication all around. How far off the ground is the bottom of your battery box?
I really haven't measured but I do know it's well above the scrub line
I was just curious. It looks good there.
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What radiator is in your '32 ?? Following your hood build... I like the concept of having removable sides... Good work....
I purchased a CC3132 from Champion, removed the Ford mounting taps on the sides and made my own brackets lined with rubber for vibration. Hope it will do the job, They say it's good up to 800hp. I've mounted the condenser in front of it and I plan on using a 16" pulling fan with 2700cfm.
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What radiator is in your '32 ?? Following your hood build... I like the concept of having removable sides... Good work....
I purchased a CC3132 from Champion, removed the Ford mounting taps on the sides and made my own brackets lined with rubber for vibration. Hope it will do the job, They say it's good up to 800hp. I've mounted the condenser in front of it and I plan on using a 16" pulling fan with 2700cfm.
I have two of those radiators, have one in my 33 Chevy (TPI SBC) and using a Taurus 2 speed pull fan, the Taurus shroud fit like it was made for it.
Have one on my son's 37 Chevy sedan (LT1 SBC) and because of clearance used a Derale 17" fan #18217 (2400/1800) as a pusher, but can be used as a puller. The Derale fit just right.
The 33 Chevy hasn't been on the road..but the radiator easily keeps the car cool around the yard and idling. Just got the 37 running last week and the LT1 fan from the factory doesn't kick on until 226 degrees!..so far so good.
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I used the same radiator in my '32. I have a mechanical fan with a universal fan shroud. All this summer it has gone over 180.
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Ed Do you remember what year Taurus you took the fan out of? I like the ideal of a two speed fan.
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Ed Do you remember what year Taurus you took the fan out of? I like the ideal of a two speed fan.
Don't remember the year Taurus but they are rated as 2800/4500 CFM. What I like is that it fit that radiator like it was made for it. If you search the Internet you'll find a lot about that fan, here is one link (there are others):
http://www.go.jeep-xj.info/HowtoTaurusFanInstall1.htm
If you get into a bind..I have an extra one only in case I secure another project ::).
BTW: Wanted to use one on my son's 37 sedan...but the Taurus fan is a puller and we didn't have the space..so had to go with a Derale pusher.
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Just wanted to bump the thread to keep it going, I've been working on my hood when time was available. I got some help this weekend and was able to get my latches in and working. Will post some picture one night this week.
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Here's the pictures of my latch set up I came up with. Any comments appreciated positive or negative.
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62131 I screwed up my hood literally. I of all people should have known better and should have sprayed it with goop. I did not and forced it.I have left it on the back burner for now good thing AH now i can latch mine like you are doing OK back to the hood I am going to silver saulder stainless steel hinges the length of the hood in all three places and then sit back and have a weee peek lol vette59jdwl
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That's a pretty good idea. I'm presuming cable release? Should work great!
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Your right, my plans are to hide the cable in the sq. tubing and have it exit in front of the latch guided by a small steel tube so that very little of it will be seen.
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A few pictures to update my build, here is the dash insert and lower panel below the dash to house my switches and hide my a/c unit.
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Here is my old grille insert before I replaced it with the new stainless insert panel, I haven't got around to cleaning it up after tacking it into place.
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62131....slick gauge insert.. is that the 5 inch speedo and tach??.....keep up the good work
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No, it's the 3-3/8 there wasn't enough room behind the dash for 5" gauges as I had to move my linkage over for my motorized cowl vent.
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I have all the wiring done on the engine and the power cut off switch installed and tucked away behind the battery box. I need to get some pictures and get those posted.
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62131.....Which cowl unit did you go with?? and does it operate ok?? pics if you have them...
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I purchased a miniature high torque 12vdc gear motor of eBay with a 10rpm out and made a bracket to mount it to then took some 3/16 rod and rod ends and made my adjustable linkage. I also had to move the arm of the cowl vent over to the left about a 1-1/2" -2" to clear the a/c unit. I also had to work with the angle of the arm to get it at the correct angle so that it would open smoothly. I still have to come up with a miniature micro switch to shut it off when it gets to the fully closed position. If I don't put the switch in the circuit it will open if you do not release the momentary rocker switch when fully closed. Hope that makes sense. I will post some pictures for you.
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I always like the looks of you guys sedans. Makes me want to build another one. I had afriend that put a electric operating system on his cowl vent. It worked great except his cowl vent opened on the Windshield side, and at hiway speeds it wanted to close from the pressure of the wind. HMMM. I wonder if he ever fixed that. Nice job on your 32.
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I always like the looks of you guys sedans. Makes me want to build another one. I had afriend that put a electric operating system on his cowl vent. It worked great except his cowl vent opened on the Windshield side, and at hiway speeds it wanted to close from the pressure of the wind. HMMM. I wonder if he ever fixed that. Nice job on your 32.
I don't think I'll have that problem blowing shut, I hope I have the geometry correct and enough gear ratio to keep it closed. ???h
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Nice work on the dash and battery box! Great to see the progress. Looking forward to seeing the power cowl vent.
Tom
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I especially like that gauge panel. Is that from another car or did you fabricate that yourself?
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Chopper I ran across that panel at a car show, a vender must have had it for a while as the package was all faded and dirty. My plan is to have it hydro dipped in a bough walnut pattern.
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Here is a picture of my grille insert in the shell, got that installed today
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I purchased a Vintage Air A/C and Alternator mount and installed that today. Beware that this unit is not set up to be used with a after market intake original equipment only. Vintage Air does not list this anywhere. Took a little modifying and several hours to get it to line up. If you look to the left of the ac unit you see my cowl vent motor that I talked about in a previous post. Will try and get a better picture.
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62131.....Which cowl unit did you go with?? and does it operate ok?? pics if you have them...
Here's a better picture of the cowl vent motor I came up with. If I knew if we could post a short video I show it in operation.
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Nice set up, looks great!
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Thought is was about time I come check out all your guy's builds. Awesome stuff going on here.
Looking at page 1.
I like the wood replacement in steel . Is there any other structure behind the sheet steel ? Any other pics?
Also did you add any bracing to the fiberglass rear fenders.? I think I may go that route.
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62131 It looks clean and all fits within the confines of a real hood great job vette59jdwl
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I've been spending some quality time in the garage here lately getting a lot of things done. Yesterday I completed my exhaust system, and put my drive shaft in. I have the wiring harness installed and been making termination as I complete sections of the car. I did bump the engine over the other night it won't belong before she will be coming to life :) :)
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62131 Summer is upon us Its time to make a positive difference sounds like you have your shi#! together going to be a nice ride can not wait to see it rolling congrats vette59jdwl
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Hey vette59jdwl you still interested in the hood? I just have not gotten it weighed to check the freight, I have been putting a penetrant on the hinge pins so that I can take it apart to make the package smaller.
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I have put more stuff on mine and i cant get it to budge so good luck with that one OH by the way please send a pic or two to lave@cogeco.ca thanks vette59jdwl
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oh its moving on the pins, just trying to get it were I can remove them easily
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Vette,, are you trying to remove the pins from the hood panels???? Mine were really tight..what I did was sprayed with them down with a penetrate( WD 40 or what ever you use) and let the set for 1-2 hrs... then took my propane torch and heated the pins and pin clamps then let it set over night ....then repeated this process again..and then took a drift rod( same size as the pin rod) and hammered the pin out until I was able to get vice grips on the pin... then hammered the vice grips and sprayed the pin as it was moving...this worked for me
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Vette,, are you trying to remove the pins from the hood panels???? Mine were really tight..what I did was sprayed with them down with a penetrate( WD 40 or what ever you use) and let the set for 1-2 hrs... then took my propane torch and heated the pins and pin clamps then let it set over night ....then repeated this process again..and then took a drift rod( same size as the pin rod) and hammered the pin out until I was able to get vice grips on the pin... then hammered the vice grips and sprayed the pin as it was moving...this worked for me
That's pretty much how I did it except without the heat
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First i sprayed the hinges for three days then i used the propain torch then i used goo be gone and so far nothing has worked. I watched a video where a fellow used a drill and clamped the end in the drill and then spun it out it looked so easy oh yeh. that hasn't worked either. now i am trying heat again.On the broken hinge i just sharpened up a screw driver and opened up the pins that way i could save half a hood top not nice.I think mother nature has had her way Way to long with this here hood. vette59jdwl
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I checked the one I'm soaking with a penetrant and its moving freely now, tomorrow I will try and remove the pins. Vette59jdwl something that might have happened is the pins wore like lobes on a cam and are hanging up on the hinge. I will get that freight charge to New York this week for you.
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Thought is was about time I come check out all your guy's builds. Awesome stuff going on here.
Looking at page 1.
I like the wood replacement in steel . Is there any other structure behind the sheet steel ? Any other pics?
Also did you add any bracing to the fiberglass rear fenders.? I think I may go that route.
Yes there is sq. tubing behind the sheet steel around the door opening just behind the rear side windows and it's tied into the b pillar below the rear side window with a horizontal brace. Then in the doors there is two horizontal pieces running front to back. As far as the bracing the fenders I used the original front brace, under the running boards I put a 1x2 sq tubing between the running board supports to stiffen the fiberglass running boards and as far as the rear renders they are mounted like the originals fenders were.
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I have talked with some members of the car club and they tell me that they replace the original hoods with stainless steel rods.That may just be the answer.Thanks vette59jdwl
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62131 I looked and looked and then looked some more for original 32 rear fenders.I serched hi and low,and finally I found a set of 31 chevy rear fenders the only thing lacking from them that the 32 fender has is that little spear at the very rear of the fender,and if i can not make that up out of some lead or some J.B.Weld then i should not be building a 32 chevy roadster.when i am finished with these No one will be able to tell the difference.Man they want an arm and a leg for 32 rear fenders now dont they. vette59jdwl
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yes they do, that's why I chose to go fiberglass. I've been working in the garage just about every night for the last week finishing up little things. Mounted my head lights last night on the side of the radiator shell where the wire looms exit head light bar it's expensive to. Looked at a Chevy 32 coupe in Knoxville last weekend and the owner said he used a bar off a 32 Ford and it was with in a 1/4" of fitting like the original. I mounted my tail lights today, speaking of thing costing an arm and a leg tail light arms a $100.00 bucks a piece plus tail lights $100.00 a piece I chose to use those real common 31 Ford ones at $24.00 a pr. looks real close just not as long as the Chevrolet ones, most people wont no the difference anyway I'll post pictures soon
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Going thru ebay the other day I noticed that AMMUSCLE seller on ebay has a selection of rear fenders repo in steel for sale 1929-1930, 1931, 1932. Gas tank cover apron for 32, front fenders and other items for open cars.
mike lynch 8)
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62131 I seen them for 85 dollar a pair but never for that price, and yes they would not know the difference. MY little red low rider.This lad looks at the truck and says pretty nice for a Ford i told him sure is can you guess what year and his buddy says no thats not a FORD its a silverado,so he asks me,and i say it is anything you want it to be and he says smart ass.so i just let it roll. clueless
vette59jdwl ps you would thinki they would ask first instead of sticking their foot in their mouth
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Vette sent you a PM.
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I guess I stated that wrong I didn't use the ford tail lights just the arms with Chevrolet tail lights mounted to them, I'll post pictures this afternoon :)
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Here's a couple pictures of my tail light assemblies using the ford arms I modified
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62131..Thanks for posting...been following this set up you posted on.. I like it... still serves the purpose....after seeing those on your 32 I am leaning to that set up...where did you get the Chevy lights ??? Good job...
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62131..Thanks for posting...been following this set up you posted on.. I like it... still serves the purpose....after seeing those on your 32 I am leaning to that set up...where did you get the Chevy lights ??? Good job...
I purchased them off Ebay, just kept watching until I found an auction that nobody was biding on, I'm going to convert them to led
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Here's a picture of how I mounted my head lights not sure if I really like it this way.
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What don't you like about them? Are they chrome units?.... Maybe when you get paint on the car they will look better to you
Mine look better since I got the correct light bars ... Still trying to figure out tail light ..I have a pair of 39 ford LED units that I was going to tunnel (frenched in light bucket) in the fenders , but still debating on that or the way you went .....
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Actually they are stainless , It just looks a little plain, as you said paint might help
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One of the motorcyles fairly new, victory ?? has a fantastic tail light that's a similar to a 39 ford except it blows the ford one away. Its longer, brighter and gorgeous.
Find a pair of those and you will have a sleek rear end worth looking at !!!
mike lynch 8)
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Here's a picture of how I mounted my head lights not sure if I really like it this way.
62131 looks good to me. :)
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Yes, they are chrome, It just looks a little plain, as you said paint might help
Those headlights don't look plain to me, they look good! Anyway, ometimes less is more. And, I agree once the car is painted with the chrome stantions that will really stand out. Sweet tail lights too!
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Front to back that chevolet is looking good. (chevolet spelling on purpose.) 8)
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After 4 years of waiting to hear her she came alive today :)
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Congrats man, keep at it. ;)
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Music to your ears! Congrats ;D
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Well a little bad news today, went to the garage this morning to fire her again to enjoy the sound and smell of exhau7st fumes. I noticed a small puddle of water under the car investigated and found a freeze plug leaking just wondering now if I should change all the ones I can get to ???
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Probably not a bad idea to go ahead and change them all while your at it so you won't have to think about it. Was the plug rusted or leaking around the edge?
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Not sure, I haven't really got a good look at it yet, It's up behind starter. My guess it's leaking around the edge. Why do you ask?
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freeze plugs rust from the inside out , if you examine you'll probably notice a tiny pin hole in the middle where it is sweating through . it can be hard to see with the naked eye.
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Do all the ones you can get to, 63121, you're block is already going to be drained and it is cheap peace of mind.
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Freeze plugs changed not to bad. Started putting in sound deadener yesterday the roof is almost complet
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Here's a couple pictures of my tail light assemblies using the ford arms I modified
62131....Are those Model a Lights ???? on your A model arms???... More I look at it the more I like it...Thanks
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No they are 33 Chevrolet tail lights on a 31 Ford arm that I modified.
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Here's a couple pictures after I put primer on them
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62131...Thanks for the info....They look good...What are your plans on color for the '32...?
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I'm doing the body in a Dark Midnight Blue Metallic and the fenders in a solid black with tinted side and rear glass.
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That's gonna look great.
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I have since posted this color scheme painted the firewall and the window and door jams installed the glass and added fuel injection
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Man they are perfect.And they look right at home on those fiberglass fenders.Coming along just great.
vette59jdwl
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Well guys its been a while since I've posted anything on my build here. But I've thought I might bring my build up to date, This past weekend I've installed the Holley Hyper Spark ignition system in my 32 to compliment my Sniper Fuel injection system. It made all the difference in how the engine performed, it now is very responsive, no hesitation, lower idle rpm, I can't believe the difference it made, should have installed it sooner. :)
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I'm glad you had a noticeable improvement. 👍 Something to be said for matched components😁
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Thought about Fuel injection...read up on the Fitech and sniper couldn't decide..May revisit the the she again
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I built a mega squirt ears ago then got lost and gave up. It used a GM TBI. If I built the planned 292 form flat bed I will likely go back to it. Maybe one of the new systems would be better quicker, and easier.