Rusty Bowtie
General Category => General Discussion - Intros => Topic started by: EDNY on May 01, 2014, 10:54:20 AM
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Ordered a set of plain steel headers...won't be able to see them - going into a full fendered car but I need to weld in O2 bungs and paint them. Any heat paint recommendations?
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Ed I used VHT on my exhaust. I had good luck with it in the past. Haven't run it yet so I can't tell you how durable it is. Updated and added picture of VHT. It claims to be a silica ceramic coating.
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I like the ceramic coating from the powder coat shop. It's more $ but it really extends the life and keeps more heat in the tube.
It comes in a few different colors. I used the silver on the 32s interior garnish moldings.
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Ed....Like Tom I have had good luck with VHT. A couple of things that I've found over the years is that the system must be extremely clean before application and even better longevity can be gained by sanding blasting the system to create the best possible surface to facilitate adhesion. That being said, as logride states ceramic coating is the best way to go.
Moose
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Thanks guys....looks like VHT is the way to go. Ceramic coating would be nice...but would cost more than what I paid for the headers!
Ed
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Blasting with steel shot is way better than sand.It leaves the surface completely free of contaminants and ready to paint,unlike sand that imbeds the dust and silica.I have a set of pipes on one of my sleds that I shot blasted 8 yrs ago and there is no flakeing or rust bleed thru. Look it up.
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I buy my powder coating from Columbia Coatings, here is their ceramic section:
http://www.columbiacoatings.com/store/c/569-Ceramics.aspx
Haven't worked with any ceramic stuff but if I want "polished aluminum ceramic" ..can do it without an oven..doesn't need a heat cure...but needs 5 days to cure hanging...about $75 for material.
For the "chrome ceramic" ...the coating material is about $55...but needs to be cured in an oven at 500 degrees.
Been using a kitchen type electric stove...but been thinking about removing the heating elements and installing them in another slightly larger insulated container?
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Ed, an acquaintance of mine used something like you are suggesting, it was an old freezer. He stood it on end and put the 240V element at the bottom, then hung whatever he was coating from the top. Trying to remember the details, and I seem to remember that he had a very small hole at the bottom and another at the top to provide a small amount of ventilation.
He also had a frame on his model A blasted and powder coated commercially, and that cost him $300 in Canada about 3 or 4 years ago. Pretty sure the frame wasn't ceramic coated.
I used some VHT years ago, that stuff has been around a long time. But I'm pretty sure the new stuff is a much better product.
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Ed, an acquaintance of mine used something like you are suggesting, it was an old freezer. He stood it on end and put the 240V element at the bottom, then hung whatever he was coating from the top. Trying to remember the details, and I seem to remember that he had a very small hole at the bottom and another at the top to provide a small amount of ventilation.
He also had a frame on his model A blasted and powder coated commercially, and that cost him $300 in Canada about 3 or 4 years ago. Pretty sure the frame wasn't ceramic coated.
I used some VHT years ago, that stuff has been around a long time. But I'm pretty sure the new stuff is a much better product.
Exactly...been keeping my eyes open for a old full metal freezer or refrigerator. Would need to remove any plastic and line with high temp insulation. When I powder coat with my old kitchen oven..I lay it on it's back when hanging parts...a lot easier that way. Have it wired to plug into my welder leads.
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The guys on Fordbarn swear by Rustolem stove paint. I used it on the Hudsons exhaust and its holding up ok.
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A local ceramic coater will do them in ceramic for $75 (as a favor)...