Rusty Bowtie
General Category => General Discussion - Intros => Topic started by: munch on May 17, 2015, 10:10:43 AM
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A couple of weeks ago I got in the car to go for a ride and it would not start. It had just been running the previous day. I checked all the wiring and all I saw was a wire to the distributor that appeared loose, so I reseated it. The car started right up. I think it happen once again, so I did the same thing. It started right up.
Yesterday I drove to my brother's house about 60 miles away. I spent the day helping him and when I tried to start the car to head home, it would not start. So of course I reseated the same connection, started right up. When I got home I parked in front of the shop and let it sit a while. When I tried to start it to put it inside, it would not start. I fiddled with the wire again, over and over, no good.
I discovered that the connection I was messing with was the tach wire, that didn't make sense to me. I got the neighbor to help me push it in and I locked up. I went out this morning to start to find the problem, and it turned right over.
I need advice please, I want to fix the bugs so I can trust the car.
Thanks
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I sounds like the module in your distributor is slowly going bad, that is if you have a electronic distributor.
Just my guess
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Munch, Ghost may be on the right track. I've had the H.E.I. head have intermittent problems also. I had bought a '75 T/A that the tach wasn't working, found it unpluged. When I plugged it in it would intermittently not start, replaced tach and cured. I also had a '69 Torino Cobra that had the tach problems, wouldn't start sometimes and make engine miss under hard acceleration. Had tach sent in for rebuild, problem also cured.
Just some things to look at.
p.s. unhook tach and see if problem goes away.
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Good call. I didn't consider the tach as a problem, they do go bad. I bought a jeep awhile back because it wouldn't start. took the tach out and it fired right up.
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I replaced the ignition module last season. As a test, should I disconnect the tach and monitor?
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I would disconnect the tach wire check and see if it fires, with the tach going bad it is probably going to ground.
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Disconnected the tach runs fine. I will watch.
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Update, has not failed to start as yet.
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Update - I tried to start the car this morning and it would not start I moved the wire connections at the distributor and no luck. I plugged the tach back in and it started, I'm confused.
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Update - I tried to start the car this morning and it would not start I moved the wire connections at the distributor and no luck. I plugged the tach back in and it started, I'm confused.
Damn gremlins are screwing with you. I wonder if you could be having a dirty ground problem with your car.
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OK here goes I know it has nothing to do with old chevys It has lots to do with a twin 18 hp MURRY lawn tracktor. The dang thing will not start so i took it all apart all the shielding around the motor took the starter off and hooked it up to a set off jumper cables wheeeer ,wheeeeer,wheeeeer,. so i put it all back together had the battery fully charged by this time put the key in the ignition and Nada.Dang what the fiddle fart.Took the ground off the battery cleaned that took the ground off of the frame cleaned that with the die grinder put that all back together NADA not even a click.So i took the jumper cables put them on the positive and negative put the other end negative on the block and clicked the live stick on the starter wheeeer. So said crap went and got a negative black cable from the old chevy truck took a bolt out of the frame but one end on the frame and took a bolt out of the head put the other end of ground to that click click wheeeer run run run what the hell doesnt matter it starts and runs dang gremmlins vette59jdwl
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You said that you replaced the module last year but how about the pick up coil. I have seen them give an intermittent no start. When the teeth are aligned, the magnetic field increases, which induces a electric current through the pick up coil windings. As the timer core and pick up coil move away from each other, the magnetic field collapses and the voltage signal is diminished. The magnetic field and pick up coil generate an AC (alternating current) in the pick up coil leads and the windings.When the pick up coil voltage falls below a certain threshold, the ignition module opens the primary current flow within the module. The ground path is eliminated from the coil primary windings, collapsing the magnetic field. The voltage that is induced in the coil (secondary) circuit is the result of the mutual induced current from the magnetic field collapsing.If the coil voltage is not falling below the threshold maybe when you open the circuit by removing or wiggling the connector you are fully discharging the coil and the signal to the module starts working again.
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If you are using an aftermarket module could be bad..try to locate an OEM Delco module (even used) with the number 369 on it.
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Modules can easily be tested with a DVOM...Do a search in Google and you will find the procedure.
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Modules can easily be tested with a DVOM...Do a search in Google and you will find the procedure.
I bet Autozone would test it for free...but it sounds like a bad module..been through that sequence of intermittent starts. (If you have a Richporter module..I'd get a Delco).
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I did not mention that by saying would not start, it won't even turn over. Just click...
At one time a wire running to the transmission fell onto the exhaust pipe and got so hot it melted some of the insulation the bundle. I might not have fixed all of it. Maybe a short???
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Make sure that you have a good ground from the battery to the engine and chassis and body. Very important.
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If it clicks it clicks at the selenoid put a test light to ground and then on the outgoing power line from the relay the other side of the relay should be directly attached to the battery. If the light lights you know its sending power through the selenoid.Then take a the test light and touch it on the end of the starter post if it lights.Then take a cable attach one end on the frame or ground and the other
end on the engine block a perfect ground now try the key it should start vette59jdwl
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I did not mention that by saying would not start, it won't even turn over. Just click...
At one time a wire running to the transmission fell onto the exhaust pipe and got so hot it melted some of the insulation the bundle. I might not have fixed all of it. Maybe a short???
In that situation sounds like a major bad connection...bad battery clamp, cable, dirty connection, broken wire inside insulation.
Check the voltage of the battery first, make sure it is charging when running, If you have a "1" wire alternator...you might need to really rev up the engine to activate the alternator.
BTW: With the headlights on try to start it, if the headlights don't dim...probably bad connection, if they do dim...probably dead battery.
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Might have made progress. Last night it would not turn over, just click. In my frustration I forgot to test as you all have told me, instead I went for the tach wire again with no luck. I checked grounds, no luck. I wiggled the wiring bundle, no luck. Finally I moved the wires connecting the mini starter that has not been on long, it started. I am going to put it on the lift this weekend and check those connections.
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munch. I had a small block that did pretty much the same thing. just click and not turn over. My problem was with a bad solonoid on the starter. I believe what made it weak was being so close to the headers it got hotover and over, A few times after driving it, I had to cross the starter terminals with a screwdriver to get it to start.
Just a thought...John
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munch. I had a small block that did pretty much the same thing. just click and not turn over. My problem was with a bad solonoid on the starter. I believe what made it weak was being so close to the headers it got hotover and over, A few times after driving it, I had to cross the starter terminals with a screwdriver to get it to start.
Just a thought...John
John,
That makes sense, as mine is close to the headers. I ordered the mini started kit from Speedway and it has a metal shield, but still that area gets hot.
Thanks for the input...
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Munch, sorry I had you chasing the tach. I misunderstood your problem, I thought it was a firing problem (not a cranking). Here is a quick list to try, in order of probability.
1. Check solenoid terminal nuts for tightness. If tight, check that crimp on wire terminal
is tight (slightly tug on wire to check crimp).
2. Solenoid
3. Break in soleinoid "crank" wire (between solenoid and ignition switch)
4. Ignition switch out of adjustment (at the lower steering column, if GM style column)
5. Bad ingnition switch.
Also if heat is killing soleinoid as Ghost reffered too, I think that the Speedway mini starter has an adjustment to clock the solenoid to another (inboard) position, to get the most distance from the header.
Hope you find it. :)
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Munch, sorry I had you chasing the tach. I misunderstood your problem, I thought it was a firing problem (not a cranking). Here is a quick list to try, in order of probability.
1. Check solenoid terminal nuts for tightness. If tight, check that crimp on wire terminal
is tight (slightly tug on wire to check crimp).
2. Solenoid
3. Break in soleinoid "crank" wire (between solenoid and ignition switch)
4. Ignition switch out of adjustment (at the lower steering column, if GM style column)
5. Bad ingnition switch.
Also if heat is killing soleinoid as Ghost reffered too, I think that the Speedway mini starter has an adjustment to clock the solenoid to another (inboard) position, to get the most distance from the header.
Hope you find it. :)
No worries, I am just so thankful for you guys and your willingness to help. You're a huge asset...
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Munch, sorry I had you chasing the tach. I misunderstood your problem, I thought it was a firing problem (not a cranking). Here is a quick list to try, in order of probability.
1. Check solenoid terminal nuts for tightness. If tight, check that crimp on wire terminal
is tight (slightly tug on wire to check crimp).
2. Solenoid
3. Break in soleinoid "crank" wire (between solenoid and ignition switch)
4. Ignition switch out of adjustment (at the lower steering column, if GM style column)
5. Bad ingnition switch.
Also if heat is killing soleinoid as Ghost reffered too, I think that the Speedway mini starter has an adjustment to clock the solenoid to another (inboard) position, to get the most distance from the header.
Hope you find it. :)
Number 3 might be the problem. I dropped the started last night so I could remove the heat shield and check the wiring, and that heavy gauge wire that runs from the solenoid to ignition was loose at the round connector. Some of the wires were broken and I suppose that the voltage that the wire needs to support, that would cause a problem.
I cut the round end off and I had a piece of wire in the wiring box that is just like it and already has the connector on it. Now I have to splice the to together, which is good because I need some extra length, but what is good to splice it with? Would a crimp connector hold up or should it be soldered? I think it is maybe 12 gauge.
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Munch,
How difficult would it be to replace the whole wire? Then you would have one less place for corrosion or problems to set in.
Tom
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Munch like Tom said, if it's easy enough to pull a new wire into the loom. But if you splice, I would use quality heat shrink insulation tubing and solder the splice. I solder everything I can, you will never have trouble with a good solder joint. ;)
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Munch like Tom said, if it's easy enough to pull a new wire into the loom. But if you splice, I would use quality heat shrink insulation tubing and solder the splice. I solder everything I can, you will never have trouble with a good solder joint. ;)
I would like to do as Tom suggested, but the wire is from a painless wiring kit and has an inline fuse and leads to the main 60 amp fuse, I think that is the size I remember. I picked up a crimp on a connector that also has built in shrink tubing, but if you think the solder is best I will need to get something that will heat up that big wire. Lowes has mini butane torches?
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I have a soldering station for anything out of the car. For anything in the car I use a hand held micro butane soldering gun...good for the heat shrink also.
What I have learned:
* Only use 'triple refined" butane in the micro hand torches
* Plumbers water base flux works great. It says not for electrical soldering BUT I use it because it it designed to work under flame and doesn't burn up like regular soldering flux does. Try it...always get clean and strong connections.
Ed
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Munch, i'm not saying not to use the butt connector, a lot of people have success with them. It just seems like every used car I buy that has them, I have had problems with. I end up cutting them out and soldering them. If you use the crimp on butt connectors, make sure you have a good crimp tool and pull on the connection to make sure it's tight on both ends.
I have several of the older Wellers soldering guns and they have no problem soldering up to 6 gage wire. I prefer the lead rosin core solder.