Author Topic: Hood Alignment  (Read 7800 times)

TFoch

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Re: Hood Alignment
« Reply #15 on: December 11, 2013, 07:16:57 AM »
If you don't have a problem clearing your radiator the only other issue is the front splash apron.  I know I have to trim mine on my 33 to clear the radiator.  I might have to trim it more for the rack if it was in front.
Spending time with my grandkids gets in the way of finishing my car but I don't regret it!

EDNY

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Re: Hood Alignment
« Reply #16 on: December 11, 2013, 07:30:29 AM »
Sorry about the pictures, I will try to resize them.

Just resized them for you

Ed
33 Chevy 5 Window, 34 Chevy 3 Window, 37 Chevy 4dr sedan

EDNY

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Re: Hood Alignment
« Reply #17 on: December 11, 2013, 07:57:39 AM »
Munch

Looking at your alignment can I suggest that you try lifting the back of the car instead of concentrating on the front?  Maybe lift (lightly) the frame at the rear chassis area near the bumper mounts and monitor gap changes.  Might be that the frame is bowed up in the middle from stress or someone lifting the car in the middle with a jack. 

Sounds crazy, but instead of trying to adjust the hood/radiator to the body..try adjusting the body to the hood radiator.

Ed
33 Chevy 5 Window, 34 Chevy 3 Window, 37 Chevy 4dr sedan

munch

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Re: Hood Alignment
« Reply #18 on: December 11, 2013, 08:22:01 AM »
ED,

I was thinking about that as if I lowered the front the bottom of the cowl would bottom out.  Make sense?

themoose

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Re: Hood Alignment
« Reply #19 on: December 11, 2013, 09:53:13 AM »
munch

In looking at your pictures it would appear that the difference in angle of the trim line on the body and the hood is somewhere around 10 degrees. I'm sure that there is some distortion of the angle in the picture but if its visible to the eye it's pretty large. If you project that line to the rear of the car then as you can see you would have to raise the body a mile(pictures are exaggerated). I think you are going to have to raise the radiator and change the angle of the body to make up as much of the difference as possible and even then you might have to do what ED did and modify the hood. To be honest I've never seen the angles to be so far off.

Moose
« Last Edit: December 11, 2013, 09:55:19 AM by themoose »
Too soon we get old too late we get smart. One out of two ain’t bad 8)

EDNY

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Re: Hood Alignment
« Reply #20 on: December 11, 2013, 09:58:28 AM »
ED,

I was thinking about that as if I lowered the front the bottom of the cowl would bottom out.  Make sense?

Not sure what you mean...but it only takes a few minutes to put a floor jack under the car (way back) in a couple of different places and see if you can get the frame and/or body to shift into alignment.  Keep in mind that those cars were framed with wood and nails and the frames weren't boxed. Overlap some masking tape with lines at the gaps to see if they move.  You never know...the car may have been in an accident many years ago.

Kinda like when you have a vibration in the front of your car it's probably the rear universal and not the front one causing it.

Ed
33 Chevy 5 Window, 34 Chevy 3 Window, 37 Chevy 4dr sedan

munch

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Re: Hood Alignment
« Reply #21 on: December 11, 2013, 10:34:24 AM »
My radiator mounts directly on top of the Kugel front end and I can raise it to straighten the body line, but then their will be a wide gap between the bottom of the hood side and the surface of the fender.  I guess I could try and space between the fender and frame, but it seems like I'm just screwing everything up.

The car sits on the stock frame, but all wood in the body has been replaced with steel.  The front and center body mounts are fabricated and not original, so everything is different.  I put rubber spacers between the body mounts to cushion the ride and also to keep the bottom of the cowl from bottoming out. 

themoose

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Re: Hood Alignment
« Reply #22 on: December 11, 2013, 02:35:57 PM »
munch

I'm not sure if you year had the same setup but the 32 has a support that mounts on top of the front cross member that mounts both the radiator and fender brackets. The fenders only attach to the frame at the rear and the front of the fenders attach to the brackets that are bolted to the radiator support bracket. When you adjust the height of the radiator you put shims between the frame and the support bracket which lifts both the radiator and the fenders. There is a gap at the front between the fenders and the frame and the stock fenders had a sheet metal filler that was riveted to the fender to hide the gap when viewed from the underside of the fender.

Moose
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munch

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Re: Hood Alignment
« Reply #23 on: December 11, 2013, 03:33:35 PM »
I like that setup Moose, but mine has the fender braces that attach to the frame.  Raising the radiator only increases the gap.  I'm not giving up though.  I plan to try a number of these suggestions.

When I got the car, it was bolted to the frame with no shock absorption what so ever, but body lines were better.  My attempts aided the ride, but threw things out.  Maybe time to stat over?   

sixball

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Re: Hood Alignment
« Reply #24 on: December 11, 2013, 06:40:50 PM »
This is interesting. I'd try jacking up the back of the frame to see if it helps but I would also take the body mounts loose and see if shims would help. It may be that when replacing the wood some errors were made.
The probability of life originating from accident is comparable to the probability of the unabridged dictionary resulting from an explosion in a printing shop.  Edwin Conklin

munch

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Re: Hood Alignment
« Reply #25 on: December 19, 2013, 04:26:41 PM »
Got that sucker, thanks guys.  Maybe a little more adjusting when I roll it out a stand back to look, but I know what it takes now.

 


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